Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Thu 28th Dec 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
16 | ★★★ Ruby Of India - with Joe Lin | 210m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Extended P1 by 15m up to the next ledge & belayed at the little featured cave (linked the crux of P2 in an attempt to reduce drag on P2). Free climbed to the start of P3. P4 was nice. P5 was the best.
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Wed 27th Dec 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
Viewpoint Buttress | |||||||
20 | ★★ Thunder Flash | 32m | |||||
20 ~19 | ★★★ Fidelio | 32m, 4 | |||||
Tue 31st Oct 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
22 A1 | ★★ Phaedra - with Johnny Sullivan | 120m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Had meant to do this for a while. Credit to yim for pulling this motley gang together to crack out the ascent while im still around. Yims barney on-the-ground recruitment, Thomas Zambon stormed up the slab and impressed everyone. Then yim stormed up to the beginning of the runout, explained that if it wasnt for the rubber on his shoes sweating, hed be interested in leading the runout. A heroic victory for the lads. Great to see some trad frothers getting thrown together for a day in the hills
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Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
22 A1 | ★★ Phaedra - with Jack Seawright, Robert Hartley | 120m | |||||
Good fun with some lovely people. Really great day out! Thanks guys!
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22 A1 | ★★ Phaedra - with Yimbo, Jack Seawright, Thomas Zambon | 120m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
An amazing day out for sure. Great to get to climb with both Jack and Tom and looking forward to more trips with the both of them!
Gear
Pitches
Accessing the 1 bolt belay at the top of the ramp wa a bit sketchy with all the grass in the way. Either start from the ground or take it easy! Otherwise fun cruisy climbing with good gear throughout. The line wanders slightly, so bring some extenders. This pitch felt closer to grade 18, and is certainly easier than pitch 3.
Spectacular lead by Yimbo! Very sparse & marginal gear until you get to the roof proper. Half-nuts / RPs might ease the mind a bit. Couldn't spot the stainless carrot mentioned in the description at all!
More fun climbing dancing between the corner and the arete to the left. Good gear throughout with a bit of a runout at the start. 0 (DMM) cams for the belay, and a very flexible peg!
Spectacular top-rope by Yimbo! Pulling the mantle above the aid section would be tricky if I were any shorter. The top slab was definitely the standout for me! At first glance it appears improbable, but the hands and feet just keep coming where you need them. This would've been a heady lead though (great work Tom), and I'm psyched to come back and tick it myself! Although this belay was cold and uncomfortable, I was warmed by Jack Seawright's and Thomas Zambon's heckling as Yim braved the upper slab. Poor bloke. |
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Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
Viewpoint Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★ Slush Puppy - with Steve M | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Just fun!
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17 |
★ Rocks Of Honey
- with
dave j
1
2
| 60m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sinto falta de Frog rsrs. Pleasant change of scenery and climbing.
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Sat 7th Oct 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
Viewpoint Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★ Sticks And Stones DS | 34m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
19 | ★ Feeble Man | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Mon 25th Sep 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
16 |
★★★ Ruby Of India
- with
Pedro Rocha
1
14
45
2
13
45
The pitch that lets down the whole climb. The crag description is so misleading that many people end up too high too early, at a white corner. I did it and Pedro did too. Except one of the blocks he used came off, luckily out into space over my head, but injuring him in the process. P2 should read: difficult start up to ledge, head right, go up the closest left trending ramp. Follow the path of least resistance left for about 10m, past a white corner 5m above you, to a ramp and corner system trending left. Up this to ledge where piton is hiding at waist height. Can also belay at little trees before ledge.
3
16
45
4
13
28
5
14
45
| 210m | |||||
Complete opposite to last time- we were shivering in the shade and wind. This climb gets the stars for me second time because pitches 3, 4 and 5 just keep dishing up the spice, you need to have a strong lead head, and because each belay is so comfortable! Views are just 👌
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Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
16 |
★★★ Ruby Of India
- with
Lauren Hunter
1
14
45m
2
13
45m
Exciting times on this one... thought I was on route climbing towards the "prominent L-facing corner" when I pulled a massive death block about 3 meters from the corner. Somehow managed to (mostly) dodge the block and thankfully it didn't hit Lauren down below. Really thankful I got away with only bruises and a fractured pinky... | 210m | |||||
Thu 17th Aug 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
14 ~15 |
★ Deception I
- with
Dave
7
8
9
10
11
| 260m | Average | ||||
Finishing up DI after getting off route. Car to car in under 12, shaved 7 hours off this time up😁
|
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15 |
Deception Link Up Route
- with
Dave
1
2
3
4
5
Main man Dave found himself off route and we ended up on the big D verandah. | 280m | Average | ||||
Fool me once, shame on you; fool me twice, shame on me.
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Wed 16th Aug 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
Paparazzi Cliff | |||||||
19 | ★ Luftwaffel. Long version. - with Dan Kozianski | 50m, 13 | |||||
Cruisy 19 but calf burning
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18 | ★ Luftwaffel. Short Version - with Dan Kozianski | 18m, 5 | |||||
18 | ★★ Jack Horner - with Dan Kozianski | 48m, 17 | |||||
Cool tube makes this climb the best we did on the day
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Sat 8th Jul 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
14 |
★★★ Ruby Of India
- with
Steve M
4
13
60m
Longest belay of my life!😄 If you go for the pitch 4 and 5 linkup on a 70m climb direct without wandering too much up the route least you find yourself short on rope.
5
14
13m
Something about the journey not the destination but boy was it good to reach the summit. Hug, hydrolyte and half a cliff bar. | 73m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
14 ~15 |
★ Deception I
- with
Steve M
1
2
3
4
5
6
I'm not sure in who's definition it's a chimney, more like a right facing corner with wide crack in the back to start but we were confident we were on track based on route description, topo and rock feature around us. First half, vegetated and dirty as expected but the second half was quite good, the slab and especially the moves up and around the huge razorback block to then be standing of top of the thing with big exposure all around! ¡Qué emocionante!
7
Bush bashing to belay at left edge of verandah ready for the traverse onto the top of ruby pitch three (easy traverse with good gear.) Will need to get back and finish the last pitches of DI next time or the time after. | 260m | Average | ||||
Looking down at the drop from the razorback block. A firey moon burns a path into the black. Purple flowers proud amongst the rock. Stumbling upon Steve asleep, curled up on the track.
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Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
16 | ★★★ Ruby Of India | 210m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 26th Jun 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
Nympho Buttress | |||||||
24 |
★★ The Nympho
1
2
| 78m, 1 | |||||
The whole wall is covered in bolts, but they chop the one in the middle of the unprotectable deckable femur snapping 24
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Sat 24th Jun 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
Nympho Buttress | |||||||
18 M4 | Climax - with Joshua Malherbe | 82m | |||||
Aid climbing is scary
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24 |
★★ The Nympho
- with
Joshua Malherbe
1
lead by
Joshua Malherbe
| 78m, 1 | |||||
Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
16 |
★★★ Ruby Of India
- with
Nicole
1
14
45
lead by
Nicole
I think my opinion of this pitch is hindered by my chimney ability. I don't much care for it. When I do it next, I'll probably take the route to the right around the pillar and cop the rope drag. Great lead by Nicole!
2
13
45
lead by
Robert Hartley
Awful rope drag. In future I will stretch pitch 1 an extra 10-15m to avoid it. Go no more than 3m beyond the grass tree before turning left.
3
16
45
lead by
Robert Hartley
The best pitch of the climb by far, albeit quite ledgy. Takes great gear the whole way up, particularly wires. The crux is protected by a small wire and microcam (0.5 Totem).
4
13
28
lead by
Nicole
Pretty nondescript climbing, but a great lead by Nicole! The adventure I'd encourage you to choose is the line which runs straight up, slightly right of the right.
5
14
45
lead by
Robert Hartley
The first 20m or so is a bit lack lustre, but the top makes up for it. Reasonably fun, with a brilliant #3 DMM hex placement protecting the last 10m. I'd recommend exiting the "prominent crack" near the top onto the face to the right. | 210m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A great day out with Nicole before heading down to the Warrumbungles!
Ruby of Ledges is bit overhyped in my opinion, but I'll probably still do it again. Double ropes made the drag tolerable on all but the second pitch. I would ignore the suggested shortcut to the start of the route and just follow the tourist track. It's well worn and involves no bush-bashing. Gear A single rack is sufficient.
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Thu 8th Jun 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
16 | ★★★ Ruby Of India - with Anthony Bristow | 210m | |||||
Great intro to Trad multies for sure.
Fun climb with a good range of climbing styles.
Great gear the whole way up and the only semi hard to read pitch was P2, don't go 10m past the bush boy.
For those looking for the shortcut, don't turn right at the first orange marker you see, instead hike up over the ridge and head to the next area with heaps of boulders (this is eco point), should be a semi obvious path right at one of the orange triangles.
Hike down is super chill |
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16 | ★★★ Ruby Of India - with Brosnan Degenaar | 210m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First trad multi! Took us two hours to find the wall getting turned around at every orange triangle looking for the Mark Gamble shortcut. I'm glad we saved the extra 4 minutes it was definitely worth it.
All pitches have heaps of gear options (if you choose to use them). Bros lead p1 and p3 and I lead p2 and linked 4 and 5. P2 was pretty heinous 'vertical gardening'... wasn't really sure if I was going to right way until I found the piton. Take the first obvious left ramp maybe a few metres past the grass tree. Rope drag was awful. P3 is definitely the money pitch and the last two were pretty mellow as well. Had to sacrifice my first piece of gear to the crack gods. Walked out with the sunset. 7.5 hrs car to car - started at 9:30am like a bunch of chumps after we went to the wrong carpark. |
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Sun 28th May 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
19 |
Vindaloo Surprise
- with
Yim
1
14
lead by
Yim
Great lead by Yim, who made short work of this pitch. Pretty sure we ended up too high and too far right at the end of this pitch.
2
14
lead by
Robert Hartley
Short and straight forward since Yim included the crux in pitch 1. Mostly just bush bashing. In retrospect, I built this belay 10-20m too far to the right. If you find yourself looking near a large grass tree looking left up a dirty vegetated gully, descend slightly and walk left.
3
19
lead by
Yim
Yim did a stellar job leading this pitch! I aspire to the same degree of composure in run out terrain. He suggested a grade of 18R for the route we took. Starting too far to the right forced an unprotected traverse across the off-width to a right-facing corner. The topo shows the climb continuing out left from here, but this seemed a bit improbable so we went straight up. A 7/8 (DMM) could perhaps protect the off width, though its walls were dirty, damp, and slightly flared.
4
12
lead by
Robert Hartley
50m of pure grass climbing interrupted by an awkward mantle and topped off by a run out slab. I reckon I spent about 60% of my time on this pitch excavating the cracks of Deception II's p7 belay. Large wire & 0+1 (DMM). As an aside, Deception II pitch 8 looks mad run out.
5
16
lead by
Yim
The roof above looks quite improbable. The obvious crack was overgrown with grass and full of dirt, and appeared to fuse below a pretty steep section. There did appear to be a well protected overhang just left of the obvious line, but again, all apparent lines to it were full of grass and dirt. Eventually we decided to just take the path of least resistance. Looking at the topo I think we went up between the Deception Link Up Route and Vindaloo's fifth pitch. Definitely the nicest pitch of climbing, and well protected. | 230m | Don't Bother | ||||
Being my first proper trad multi, I probably should have been headed up Ruby of India today (and Yim definitely should have been studying).
Despite spending more time pulling on grass than rock, and doing more gardening than a Jim's Mowing franchisee might in a week, this was a great, adventurous day out! 0/10 climbing, 10/10 experience Gear
A 7 or 8 might have protected the off-width, but staying on route may negate the need. Would I do it again? Without all the vegetation, perhaps. Even then, probably not. |
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Sun 21st May 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
Paparazzi Cliff | |||||||
21 | ★★ Between The Lines - with Joe Lin | 48m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
21 | ★ Fairwell, my lovelys - with Joe Lin | 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 20th May 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
Paparazzi Cliff | |||||||
19 | ★★ Across The Path Of Lichen - with Joe Lin | 50m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Awesome climb!
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Sat 6th May 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
16 Hard | ★★★ Ruby Of India - with Gary Meyrick | 210m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
4.5 hrs. Good fun. To find the base of the route, leave the path right near the double triangle trail markers. Egg Rock has a route on the far left with a large "P" on it. This is about where you start to scramble up towards the main face. The pitch lengths and descriptions are pretty accurate but I thought pitch 4 was harder than 5. Easy to run together with a 70m as it's a straight run to the top.
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Mon 10th Apr 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
16 |
★★★ Ruby Of India
- with
Caroline Dinon
1
14
45m
2
13
45m
3
16
45m
Momentary grab of gear at crux!
4
13
28m
5
14
45m
| 210m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A grand day out on the mount! First multi taking on more responsibility so well pleased with the turnout; no epics, approach, on route and decent as planned and to share the experience with Caroline on her first multi- qué maravilloso!
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Mon 10th Apr 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
The Hourglass Cliffs Grey Wall | |||||||
18 | ★ Black Velvet - with Oscar Bassi | 52m, 16 | |||||
15 | ★★ Stigma - with Oscar Bassi | 45m, 7 | |||||
18 | ★ Black Velvet - with Janet | 52m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great climbing with the the iron stone looking rock seams. Tree belay works well. Tree chains need to be replaced. Lower off was easily rigged on adjacent climbs.
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15 | ★★ Stigma - with Janet | 45m, 7 | Average | ||||
Fairly solid and enjoyable.
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Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
Maggie's Farm Temple of Golgotha | |||||||
12 | ★ File - with amos | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great lil crack climb, cleaned on the way up. Direct is really the way to go
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Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
Maggie's Farm Main Wall | |||||||
18 Hard | ★ Obscured By Clouds - with amos | 45m | ★ Good | ||||
Good climbing, taking into account it's very dirty and vegetated with little traffic, gear down low is fine. Step left topping out to avoid some lose rock.
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Sat 18th Mar 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
16 |
★★★ Ruby Of India
- with
Average Climber
| 210m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A simplified approach description might be; Follow the tourist track until you reach Egg rock (you can't miss this pillar). Just to double check yourself, this is where the tourist track heads left and up the steeper scramble. Now aim for that small gap between Egg Rock and the mountain. Here you will see a “P” written on Egg Rock. Whilst looking at the “P”, directly behind you is a grey rocky ‘ridge’. Scramble up this, veer slightly right & bush-bash up left towards an arched cave in the main wall. Belay from this bent tree directly below the centre point on the arch.
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Thu 23rd Feb 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
The Fortress | |||||||
15 | ★ Take a Gamble - with dave | 4m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 11th Feb 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
16 |
★★★ Ruby Of India
- with
Nick Gresham
| 210m | |||||
Thu 26th Jan 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
16 |
★★★ Ruby Of India
- with
Lauren Hunter
1
14
45
2
13
45
3
16
45
4
13
28
5
14
45
| 210m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
16 |
★★★ Ruby Of India
- with
Nick Gresham, Nick
2
13
45
lead by
Lauren Hunter
Needed to go left earlier, it's not 10m past the grass tree, no way. I ended up with so much rope drag, belayed from a few metres before the pitch 3 belay piton. Knew I was in the right place thanks to the UQ guys' photo on the crag haha. | 210m | |||||
No epics today. Started around 8. Slight faff with finding the p. 3. belay but otherwise fine, topped out around 1. Walk out was also smooth, definitely go righta bit, then follow the creek down and left. Loved the creek's beautiful and cool water on this scorcher of a day! Not sure if it's a 3 star climb for me, but will probably do it again as fully trad multis are not plentiful around here...!?
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Mon 23rd Jan 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
16 | ★★★ Ruby Of India | 210m | |||||
Birthday climbs with Elissa. Fun climbing on every pitch, full quality day out. Quite a bit of vertical gardening involved, one angry ant nest.
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Mon 16th Jan 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
Paparazzi Cliff | |||||||
18 Easy | ★ Luftwaffel. Short Version | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
19 Easy | ★ Luftwaffel. Long version. | 50m, 13 | ★ Good | ||||
17 | ★ Herb's Idea | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
18 | ★★ Don't Fall | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
18 | ★ Summer | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
17 | ★ Winter | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 15th Jan 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
Paparazzi Cliff | |||||||
17 | ★ John's Idea | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
17 | ★ Winter | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 14th Jan 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
21 ~21 |
★★ Phaedra
- with
Oscar Bassi
1
18
35
lead by
Kallin Willis
Took a fall on a foot slip, even so, it's not a 19 in my opinion. Nice climbing | 110m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pretty sweet adventure even with the wind and rain. Last pitch could be freed, 27/28 would be the grade. Keen to see it freed to the top, would be a sweet send.
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Sat 14th Jan 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
Paparazzi Cliff | |||||||
18 Easy | ★ Luftwaffel. Short Version — 3 attempts - with henk, zander | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
whcih part of luftwaffle we did is unclear however was a fun climb anyway
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17 | Gear on ★ Winter — 3 attempts - with henk, zander | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 14th Jan 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
22 A1 ~21 | ★★ Phaedra - with Kallin Willis | 120m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Lead pitch 2 & 4 on-sight and clean second the other pitches except the bolt ladder. Had a good look though at the boulder problem. Will go.
That last pitch is spicy
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Mon 2nd Jan 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
16 |
★★★ Ruby Of India
- with
B-ron Roberts
1
14
45m
2
13
45m
3
16
45m
4
13
28m
5
14
45m
| 210m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
So awesome, first trad multi with Uncle Ron
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Sun 1st Jan 2023 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
Paparazzi Cliff | |||||||
17 | ★ Have A Minty | 53m, 13 | |||||
18 | ★★ Don't Fall | 14m, 6 | |||||
18 | ★ Summer | 14m, 6 | |||||
15 | Spring | 10m, 3 | |||||
Mon 14th Nov 2022 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
16 | ★★★ Ruby Of India - with Johnny Sullivan | 210m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
"Yeah mate, was here 48 hours ago. I know the approach, the start, and where the rap is..." - John Sullivan
We set off on a late start, confident of what was ahead. But this wasn't how it at all went down. Met at the Boonah bottleo at 10:30 cause I promised Johnny I wouldn't make him do the Maroon approach sober. 30 degree day, condis on. Rocked up at the carpark at 11:30 after overshooting the turnoff by a large margain. Carpark VBs x2 and rack sorting. Left the carpark at 12:30. 1 beer for the walk in, in high spirits with our pace as Johnny swore off the sprint to the start of Beau Brummel that he was subjected to 2 days prior. Kept veering down riht on the approach certain we knew the way only to choss bash our way back to the main track several times. Eventually got to the scramble point (where you're meant to turn right on the faint track) for Johnny not to remember any of it, so up we went until the brain was jogged and he was certain that we were in the wrong spot. Jack on the phone looking like he was having a a comparatively lax day, telling us how we were off track and running out of light. The smugness from this call stoked a fuel in Johnathon's heart that meant we absoltutely had to do this climb no matter what. We eventually found the start and geared up. Pitch 1 was the smoothest of the day, no wukkas. Overshot the belay but wasn't an issue. Rope drag on pitch 2 is absolutely fucked, worst pitch of climbing I've done in my life. Grade 2 choss bashing with 1 ton of rope pull behind you, places 1 token cam on the entire pitch and gave up ensuring the belary was right because moving was near impossible. Johnny started effectively soloing the pitch to help out the drag. Decided we were in the right spot after much debate on the characteristics of a "gnarly tree" and how many there were, johnny started up the crux pitch, placed my black totem, decided it was not the right start. Downclimbed , left gear in the wall, untied, pulled rope, retied, scouted for the real start and found it 2m to the left around the most awkward boulder mantle of our lives. Found some more gear, went back for the totem, then reloacted the belay. Pitch 3- 5:00pm Johnny sets off again on the real pitch 3, slowly but steadily. Pretty gearless in sections. Spends roughly 45 mins working the crux but screams with delight at the top. I start secondsing at around 6:30, lights fading rapidly. We link 4-5. Give Johnny a courtesy call to let him know there's about 2m of rope remaining. We do a bit of chossineering with some grigri work and manage to free a bit of rope up and he says he'll call me back. 2 mins later I'm getting a 9pm call from a mystery number. "MOSHI MOSHI IT'S YIMIN". "Shut the fuck up yimin im waiting for a call from Johnny" sorry fella, was a stressful time. Another call that he's out of rope but mid mantle on the top out. NOTE: 70m link up means 70m not chopped 67m rope. So the call is for me to take apart the anchor and climb up a few meters simul in order to build belay. Goes smoothly then we set off on the final climbing, which flows alright. Best part of it all? We're climbing in the clouds for the entirety of the final 2 pitches in the dark. Worst part? Clouds aren't fluffy, they're very wet. Top out to the ominous red light that's been staring at me for 70m at 10pm. The descent Part 3 of Johnny's knowledge, the rap. We wonder around for about 45 mins looking for the chains at the top of Phaedra. No luck, decide to walk. We choss bash in every direction across mount maroon until we finally decide on a gps direction to walk. More choss bashing, find the fuck off big forked gum and the creek, then the trail. It's 11pm. Shoes off, barefoot descent down to the start of ROI where we left our approach shoes. Johnny goes off to get the shoes, gets lost again, requires guiding after looking for the trail back for 30 mins. 45 min near silent walk to the car. Ipswich maccas for 2am dinner, In bed at 3. Glad I start 1pm starts at work this week. Honestly, overall 2 star climbing, way too much choss. 4 star experience. |
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Sun 13th Nov 2022 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
16 | ★★★ Ruby Of India - with Will West | 210m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
No comment required after Will’s epic write up! I will be back to do this early in morning with an encyclopaedia of approach/abseil beta
look for pitons if you are struggling to find the start of P2 & P3 |
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Sat 12th Nov 2022 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
20 | ★★ Beau Brummel - with Jack Seawright | 180m | |||||
Bloody choss snorting masochists
|
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Fri 11th Nov 2022 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
20 | ★★ Beau Brummel - with johnny yim kyle | 180m | Average | ||||
Hows this for an rsvp: kyle gets invited on a multi at 2am, 7 hours before were to meet in maroon carpark. 5am we get the affirmative. 4 man squad it is. We all watched johnny brag about his 20 slings and i took the bait, telling him to shut up about his slings and get moving. Funny unrelated detail. I ran out of slings on every pitch and had more rope drag than the tug of war world championships on the crux pitch. After deciding to leave johnnys empty coffee cup on the ground and risk 1 drop spilling in the ground bag, we set off. More grass climbing than rock climbing and more rock trundleing than rock climbing. still not really sure if we were on route but a choss wrangling adventure was had. I low-key epiced out abit on the crux pitch, climbing a thin corner, realising i couldnt keep moving and was well run out and having to downclimb it all. Deep breaths and self-reassuring that my calves werent pumping out were my most vivid memories of that corner. A rope stretching triple pitch got us to the exit gully. At one point i kind of sat back after clipping a cam. Didnt call take, the rope drag 'took' me. My unsung belayer. Johnny was not super stoked on the climb. I told him its not a rock climb, its Beau brummel, where boys become men and men realise that they are really just little boys on a big piece of rock. The discussion continued on the way down the hill facilitated by johnny as to why the fuck yim and i climb routes like this. Celebration beer at boonah cricket ground at 9:30pm with maegurang
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Wed 5th Oct 2022 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
20 | ★★ Beau Brummel | 180m | |||||
Great climbing with cool moves, a soft 20. The Description is misleading so you better have your vibe-o-meter dialled in to find the good moves and gear.
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Sat 24th Sep 2022 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
Paparazzi Cliff | |||||||
21 | ★ Fairwell, my lovelys - with Angie | 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
19 | ★★ Across The Path Of Lichen - with Angie | 50m, 15 | ★ Good | ||||
19 | ★ Luftwaffel p2, Cave version - with Angie | 15m, 8 | |||||
18 | ★ Luftwaffel. Short Version - with Angie | 18m, 5 | |||||
17 | ★★ Brunhilde - with Niklas Bergstrom | 48m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Amazing views
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17 | ★ Have A Minty - with Niklas Bergstrom | 53m, 13 | ★ Good | ||||
Kept waiting for the part where it was supposed to be cruisy
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21 | ★ Fairwell, my lovelys - with Ben Day | 30m, 10 | |||||
19 | ★★ Across The Path Of Lichen - with Ben Day | 50m, 15 | |||||
19 | ★ Luftwaffel p2, Cave version - with Ben Day | 15m, 8 | |||||
18 | ★ Luftwaffel. Short Version - with Ben Day | 18m, 5 | |||||
Not 100% sure whether we were actually on this climb or not...
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Mon 22nd Aug 2022 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
Wedgie's Place Upper | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Ejaculatory Powers - with Kyle Addy, Genevieve Forshaw | 25m | |||||
The best fingercrack I've climbed to date. Delicate down low and sustained up top, culminating with a tree-straddling mantle. Although the walk in is a pain in the ass, it is genuinely worth it to climb this absolute gem of a route. My only regret is that I didn't lead it, but seeing Kyle's grin and stoke upon joining him on the belay ledge well and truly made up for it!
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Sun 21st Aug 2022 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
Paparazzi Cliff | |||||||
17 | ★ Winter - with Ursula Adams | 10m, 4 | |||||
15 | Spring - with Ursula Adams | 10m, 3 | |||||
18 | ★ Summer - with Ursula Adams | 14m, 6 | |||||
17 | ★ Herb's Idea - with Ursula Adams | 20m, 8 | |||||
17 | ★ Winter - with eetmud | 10m, 4 | Average | ||||
15 | Spring - with eetmud | 10m, 3 | Don't Bother | ||||
I would have to agree with it being somewhat terrifying!
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17 | ★ Herb's Idea - with eetmud | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice cruisy climbing. Bit of endurance.
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18 | ★★ Don't Fall - with eetmud | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great climb! Hugged the cave. Sharp little finger pocket and up you go. Had a whole lot of fun on this one with a variety of moves.
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Wed 10th Aug 2022 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
16 |
★★★ Ruby Of India
- with
PeterW
1
14
2
13
3
16
4
13
5
14
| 210m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sensational! One of SEQ's best multi-pitches. Beautiful winter climbing but was chilly with wind and is in the shade from 10am - 4pm. 9 hours from car to car for us. Start was a bit tricky to find but once we located Egg Rock (look for the painted P) we managed to scramble to the start and the route finding was pretty good from there. Be careful of rope drag on pitch 2 (easy climbing but a lot of drag through the zigzag). Pitch 3 is the money pitch, but pitch 4 and 5 are good fun as well. Accurate grades, lots of gear placements and generally stunning scenery. Highly recommend!
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Sun 17th Jul 2022 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
16 |
★★★ Ruby Of India
1
14
45m
2
13
45m
3
16
45m
4
13
28m
5
14
45m
| 210m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 9th Jul 2022 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
16 | ★★★ Ruby Of India | 210m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 27th Jun 2022 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
Paparazzi Cliff | |||||||
17 | ★ Herb's Idea | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
17 | ★ John's Idea | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 19th Jun 2022 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
Paparazzi Cliff | |||||||
17 | ★ Herb's Idea | 20m, 8 | Average | ||||
17 | ★ John's Idea | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
John was on to something. This climb is great
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18 | ★★ Prancing Puntz | 45m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I’d grade this one closer to 20. That crux is tough
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17 | ★★ Brunhilde | 48m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
21 | ★★ Between The Lines | 48m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
19 | ★ Luftwaffel. Long version. | 50m, 13 | |||||
21 | ★★ Between The Lines | 48m, 15 | |||||
18 | ★ Luftwaffel. Short Version | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Tue 31st May 2022 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
East Face | |||||||
16 | ★★★ Ruby Of India - with Paul Bucher, Abraham Burford | 210m | |||||
Paul led 1,2&3. Brenton 4&5
3 and 4 best parts of the route. Wondered to far left on end of pitch 4. Straight up from 3 is the route.
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Mon 18th Apr 2022 - Mt Maroon | |||||||
Viewpoint Buttress | |||||||
15 | ★ Mettiste - with Geoffrey | 60m | Average |