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A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Mark Gamble
Terry Svingen
Dan Roe
Lee Cujes
Gareth Llewellin
Scott Godwin
Campbell Gome
Duncan
Brian Stokan
Natalie Kay Williams
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. Mt Maroon
327 in Crag
- 1.1. Viewpoint Buttress 74 in Area
- 1.2. East Face 25 in Area
- 1.3. Paparazzi Cliff 17 in Area
-
1.4.
North West Columns 26 in Area
- 1.4.1. Legoland 24 in Area
- 1.4.2. Porn Buttress 2 in Area
- 1.5. Virgins Window Buttress 8 in Area
-
1.6.
Maggie's Farm 70 in Area
- 1.6.1. Baby Buttress 15 in Area
- 1.6.2. Temple of Golgotha 4 in Area
- 1.6.3. Main Wall 11 in Area
- 1.6.4. Mank Buttress 5 in Area
- 1.6.5. Widow Maker Buttress 5 in Area
- 1.6.6. Widow Maker Cleft 1 in Area
- 1.6.7. Speed Buttress 12 in Area
- 1.6.8. Tough Mamma Wall 14 in Area
- 1.6.9. End Gully 3 in Area
- 1.7. Egg Rock 7 in Area
-
1.8.
Waterfall Wall 6 in Area
- 1.8.1. Waterfall Wall 6 in Area
- 1.9. The Insignificant Cliff 5 in Area
- 1.10. The Annex 3 in Area
- 1.11. The Breadloaf 3 in Area
- 1.12. The Graveyard Ridge 12 in Area
- 1.13. Little Norway 3 in Area
- 1.14. The Watchtower 2 in Area
- 1.15. Nympho Buttress 18 in Area
- 1.16. Shangrilah 1 in Area
- 1.17. Ronin Wall 3 in Area
- 1.18. Grogan Wall 4 in Area
- 1.19. Heartcramp Buttress 1 in Area
- 1.20. Wedgie's Place 10 in Area
- 1.21. North East Buttress 4 in Area
- 1.22. Tiger Face 11 in Area
- 1.23. The Hour Glass Cliffs 2 in Area
- 1.24. The Coffee Shop 1 in Area
- 1.25. The Bat Cave 9 in Area
- 1.26. Tiger Face Annex 1 in Area
- 1.27. The Lost Cliff 1 in Area
- 1.28. Central Knoll 0 in Area
- 1.29. Eastern Knoll 0 in Area
- 1.30. Tophat 0 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Mt Maroon 327 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad,?
and other styles
Long/Lat: 152.722000, -28.212894
- Unique Features And Strengths:
-
Bold trad. Big walls & many long multi-pitch routes. Heaps of untouched rock. Most areas are visited very seldom = many crags are in a pure state. Climbing is quiet, just you & nature most days. Maggie's Farm is remote (5km walk in) & is, as of 2011, out of mobile coverage = be prepared in case of injury.
- Description:
-
Great views of the Fassifern Valley, Moogerah Valleys, Knapps Peak & Mt. Barney.
- Access Issues:
-
Access from the carpark to the N.P. is via the N.E. track & is across gazetted private land. Please stay on the path. The N.P. boundary is signed.
- Approach:
-
Allow 1-1:15 to get to the start of Ruby Of India; about 30min to get to Viewpoint Buttress and about 1:15-1:30 to get to the Paparazzi Cliffs.
- Where To Stay:
-
Bigriggen is by far & away the best camp ground in the area. Drive another 7kms east towards Rathdowney, turn off, after crossing the Logan River, onto Upper Logan Rd. & follow the signs to "Bigriggen"
- Ethic:
-
Sport bolting is a big no-no here. If you place a bolt here, you'd better have a damn good reason, even then, expect it to be chopped.
- History:
-
Prior to the arrival of Rick White (early 1968) at Maroon, very few climbers had visited the mountain = there are no records of ascents pre-1968. Rick, together with Chris Meadows, Ted Cais, Paul Caffyn & others, established well over 100 routes, all of which are pure trad but the rare button bolt was left behind on the hard East Face routes ("Phaedra" & "The Anti-Christ"). The only enhancement that Rick did, that I know of, was on "The Nympho" (Nympho Buttress), where he drilled a handful of holes into the rock (to insert rods into), so as to aid climb the blank section. Rick established Australia's first grade 22 route with "Valhalla" (East Face) in 1972. The other big contributor of ascents on Maroon is Robert Staszewski, who has climbed there since 1969 and has established well over 100 routes there, all of which are trad. Visiting Victorian climber Chris Peisker put up Queensland's first 24 in 1977: "Wounded Bird". Some development in the 80s by Paul Hoskins, Even Bieske, Chris Frost, Mark Plenderleith & others. Scott Camps arrived on the scene in the early 80s & has established a score of routes there, some using partial bolting to keep them sane, amongst these, two 24s ("Thins" & "C Mon, I Told Ya So"). Herb Brandmeier arrived in the early 90s and established many sport/part sport routes here & controversially opened a new "sport" crag on the mountain - Paparazzi Cliffs in 2004. In the 2000s, Terry Svingen & Mark Gamble established several trad routes. A new hard multipitch route was added to the very exclusive club of routes on the formidable Tiger Face in 2004: "Solar Quartet" (23 with aid=has yet to be freed). Maroon's hardest route was freed in 2007 by Adam Donoghue & Gareth Llewellin: "The Anti-Christ" (28). Mark Gamble
|
1.1. Viewpoint Buttress 74 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Trad
- Approach:© (gremlin)
-
Google Map of Viewpoint Buttress.
Follow the tourist track up the mountain. When you scramble up onto the first rocky knoll with a nice view. You are standing on top of the cliff... Next time walk off-trail to the right before you scramble up.
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Just something to spite Terry. To short to be of any real value, but fun for the grade. Crap protection over the crux. FA: Mark Gamble, 2007 | 10 | 12m |
Terry Svingen 5 years agoMark Gamble 5 years ago
| ||
| 2 |
FA: Terry Svingen, Mark Gamble, 2007 | 19 | 12m |
Mark Gamble 6 years agoTerry Svingen 6 years ago
| ||
| 3 |
A thin crack at the left end of the cliff | 18 R | 20m |
Terry Svingen 5 years agoTerry Svingen 6 years ago
| ||
| 4 |
| 20 R | 20m |
Terry Svingen 5 years ago
| ||
| 5 | Romulus | 23 | 8m | |||
| 6 | Remus | 19 | 10m | |||
| 7 | White Heat | 20 | 30m | |||
| 8 | White Heat V.F. | 20 | 10m | |||
| 9 | Tomboy | 20 | 30m | |||
| 10 |
Wild World
The arete right of Tomboy. | 21 | 30m | |||
| 11 |
FA: Ian Haverson, | 16 | 20m |
Mark Gamble 3 years agoTerry Svingen 6 years ago
| ||
| 12 |
FA: Trevor Gynther, Simon Uren, | 16 | 30m |
Mark Gamble 3 years agoTerry Svingen 6 years ago
| ||
| 13 |
Chicken Run
FA: Ron Collett, Mark Gamble, 2008 | 12 | 12m |
Mark Gamble 5 years ago
| ||
| 14 |
Crusty's Classic Skank
FA: Mark Gamble, Dan Roe, 2007 | 10 | 25m |
Mark Gamble 5 years ago
| ||
| 15 |
Crusty's Classic Skank - DF
FA: Mark Gamble, Dan Roe, | 17 | 18m | |||
| 16 |
FA: Mark Gamble, Owen Klan, 2007 | 15 | 15m |
Mark Gamble 5 years agoMark Gamble 5 years ago
| ||
| 17 |
| 18 | 25m |
Hyahno Moser 3 years ago
| ||
| 18 |
FA: Brad Carmady, Terry Svingen, 2006 | 17 | 60m |
Terry Svingen 6 years ago
| ||
| 19 | Atomic Bulldust | 17 | 60m |
Mark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
| 20 |
| 17 | 60m |
Bernie Walsh 3 years agoMark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
| 21 |
Mexicana VF
FA: Trevor Gynther & Trevor Howard, | 15 | 40m | |||
| 22 |
Rocks Of Honey
One of the best climbs at Viewpoint.
| 16 | 60m |
Mark Gamble 8 years agoTerry Svingen 8 years ago
| ||
| 23 | Mettiste | 16 R | 60m |
Bernie Walsh 3 years agoTrent Williams 4 years ago
| ||
| 24 |
FA: Mark Gamble, Owen Klan, Dan Roe, 2007 | 17 | 20m | |||
| 25 |
On Safari
Grotty corner just left of Valkerie | 13 | 15m |
Mark Gamble 7 years ago
| ||
| 26 |
On Safari P2
FA: Brad Carmady & Mark Gamble, 2006 | 17 | 24m |
Trent Williams 4 years agoTrent Williams 4 years ago
| ||
| 27 |
The Wright Stuff
FA: Mark Gamble, Nick Coombes, 2007 | 17 | 40m |
Mark Gamble 5 years ago
| ||
| 28 |
Flight Of The Bumbly
Up blank face between On Safari & Valkerie. Was bolted - these have been chopped. FA: Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, | 21 | 33m | |||
| 29 |
| 21 | 33m |
Terry Svingen 8 years agoStephen Parker 9 years ago
| ||
| 30 |
Minimal gear at top. | 18 R | 33m , 4 |
Trent Williams 4 years agoMark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
| 31 |
| 21 | 34m |
Hyahno Moser 3 years agoStephen Parker 10 years ago
| ||
| 32 | Bass Drum | 23 | 35m |
Gareth Llewellin 9 years ago
| ||
| 33 |
Could This Be, The Most Beautiful Mank In The World?
Vegetated corner L of Slush Puppy. FA: Mark Gamble, 2007 | 16 | 61m |
Mark Gamble 5 years ago
| ||
| 34 |
crack L of Slush Puppy | 18 | 25m | |||
| 35 |
| 17 | 25m |
Hyahno Moser 3 years agoBernie Walsh 3 years ago
| ||
| 36 |
Top Knot Hair Fasions
Thin crack R of Slush Puppy. FA: Scott Camps, | 21 R | 25m | |||
| 37 |
FA: Mark Gamble, Stephen Daunt, | 13 | 35m |
Mark Gamble 4 years ago
| ||
| 38 |
A nice line that follows the broken corner with a large tree halfway and a couple of little caves. Head up to the right of the boulder after the tree to pass one lonely bolt runner. Climb the hand crack at the back left of cave to top out on the chains above Climb & A Half. Start: Obvious broken corner approximately 7m to the right of Sticks and Stones Buttress. Has a tree and a few caves in it. FA: Mark Gamble, Stephen Daunt, 2008 | 17 | 35m , 1 |
Trent Williams 4 years agoMark Gamble 4 years ago
| ||
| 39 | Climb 'n' A Half | 20 | 40m |
Terry Svingen 8 years ago
| ||
| 40 |
Climb & A Half VF
FA: Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, | 20 | 37m | |||
| 41 |
Fidelio
The arete an wall right of the "Drumbeat" recessed section of the cliff | 21 | 30m | |||
| 42 |
| 20 | 30m | |||
| 43 |
Up Thunderflash to 1st crux, then step R to Ready crack & up this to top. FA: Brad Carmady, Mark Gamble, 2006 | 18 | 40m | |||
| 44 |
| 17 R | 40m |
Mark Gamble 7 years agoMark Gamble 7 years ago
| ||
| 45 |
| 19 R | 20m |
Mark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
| 46 |
| 21 R | 20m |
Trent Williams 4 years agoJames 11 years ago
| ||
| 47 |
Tripitaka
Contrived climbing. This climb follows the face to the left of the large chimney. It makes more sense to use the right side of the chimney for all its worth. Descent via chains at top of this route. One 60m rope can just get you to a safe ledge with rope stretch. | 20 | 30m , 8 |
Hyahno Moser 3 years agoHyahno Moser 3 years ago
| ||
| 48 |
The chimney left of Tripitaka, instead of the face. | 17 | 30m , 8 |
Trent Williams 4 years agoTrent Williams 4 years ago
| ||
| 49 |
Thins
Face right of Tripitaka. 3 bolts + gear. FA: Scott Camps, | 24 | 35m | |||
| 50 |
Ghostly Hand DS
The thin crack right of Able. | 20 | 25m |
Mark Gamble 6 years agoStephen Parker 10 years ago
| ||
| 51 |
This is an awesome hand crack that strikes a beautiful line through a roof, and then continues up a nice exposed arête. Perfect jaming, good rock with face holds abound, make this a must do at Viewpoint. This route starts 20m off the deck, and is easily visible from the ground. Descent via 'Tripitaka' chains or walk-off. Start: Climb GHds or AF or FFCP to get to the base of this climb. The start of this route is hard to miss. FA: Rob Staszewski, 1974 | 17 | 15m |
Trent Williams 4 years agoTrent Williams 4 years ago
| ||
| 52 |
Alzheimer's Flash
FA: Kevin Pearl & John Gardiner, | 19 | 20m |
Mark Gamble 7 years ago
| ||
| 53 |
The arete right of Zolner. Some bolts. | 21 R | 18m |
Trent Williams 4 years agoMark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
| 54 | Masters Of War | 20 R | 20m |
Mark Gamble 6 years agoJames 12 years ago
| ||
| 55 |
| 18 | 35m |
Mark Gamble 7 years ago
| ||
| 56 | The Gynther Route | 20 | 35m | |||
| 57 | Going Up | 20 | 35m |
James 12 years ago
| ||
| 58 | Minimum Security | 20 | 35m | |||
| 59 |
The off-width to finger crack right of Minimum Security and at the right end of the cliff and just left of the main arete. Another great climb. | 14 R | 36m |
Mark Gamble 7 years agoMark Gamble 7 years ago
| ||
| 60 |
| 17 | 35m | |||
| 61 |
Exit out left. | 17 | 35m |
Mark Gamble 6 years agoTerry Svingen 6 years ago
| ||
| 62 |
Straight up the chimney to belay. | 17 | 30m |
Terry Svingen 7 years ago
| ||
| 63 | Outlaw | 16 | 28m |
Mark Gamble 7 years agoTerry Svingen 7 years ago
| ||
| 64 |
The wall with the thin crack right of Outlaw | 16 | 25m |
Terry Svingen 6 years agoMark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
| 65 |
FA: Nick Coombes, Mark Gamble, 2007 | 17 | 25m |
Mark Gamble 5 years ago
| ||
| 66 |
Very fun. Great chimneying and bridging. FA: Mark Gamble, Dan Roe, 2007 | 15 | 25m |
Mark Gamble 5 years agoMark Gamble 5 years ago
| ||
| 67 | unnamed | 21 | 33m | |||
| 68 | White Heat Variant Finish | 20 | 10m | |||
| 69 | Climb 'n' A Half Variant Finish | 20 | 37m | |||
| 70 | Mexicana Variant Finish | 15 | 40m | |||
| 71 |
| 20 R | 25m | |||
| 72 |
| 21 | 34m | |||
| 73 |
| 17 | 35m | |||
| 74 |
Utter Krusty Skank
Start: Mank corner left of 'Dream Run', capped with a chockstone above a small cave. FA: Mark Gamble, Dan Roe, 2007 | 8 | 15m | |||
1.2. East Face 25 routes in Area
- Summary:
- Trad,Aid and ?
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Zailing | 15 | 60m | |||||
| 2 | Animal Act | 15 M5 | 300m | |||||
| 3 |
FA: evan bieske, paul hoskins; Evan Bieske, Paul Hoskins, | 23 | 100m | |||||
| 4 | Pussy Squat Dribble | 22 | 110m | |||||
| 5 |
Sergeant Rock
From last belay of Phaedra follow arete L of aid bolts past FH. Follow flake L and u pto top of flake on Opus in G-string (2.5 Friend) then 15m to BR and up. FA: Tim Ball, Alan Frost, | 25 | 40m | |||||
| 6 |
Protection: trad and some bolts Description: Left of Beau Brummel. Grade is 22A1 as it includes aiding up a bolt ladder through a steep section. | 22 A1 | 120m |
Tom Kjaer-Olsen 1 years agoDamien Ayers 2 years ago
| ||||
| 7 |
Disintegration
From last belay of Phaedra step R and down onto hanging flake (loose) then up leaning corner (3 BR's) to bulge (crux). Slab above has two BR's. FA: Heinz Buhler, Tim Ball, | 25 | 40m | |||||
| 8 | C Mon, I Told Ya So | 22 | 120m | |||||
| 9 | No More Mr. Nice Toad | 24 | 110m | |||||
| 10 |
FA: Rick White, Ron Collett, Jon Oddie, 1971 | 28 | 160m | |||||
| 11 | The Antichrist P2 | 21 |
Gareth Llewellin 13 years ago
| |||||
| 12 |
| 28 | 40m |
Gareth Llewellin 5 years ago
| ||||
| 13 | Neck | 21 | 120m | |||||
| 14 | Roy Boy | 19 | 60m | |||||
| 15 |
Protection: trad and VERY sparse in places. Description: Up the line to the left of the centre of the arch-shaped "scooped overhang" left of 'Ruby of India'. You can die if you fall on the first pitch! | 20 | 120m |
Scott Fielding
| ||||
| 16 | The Undertaker | 22 | 45m | |||||
| 17 | Valhalla | 22 M2 | 45m | |||||
| 18 | Skin | 21 | 120m | |||||
|
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 19 |
Protection: Full rack, cams up 3 - 3.5 Description: 210 metres, grade 16, fun climbing - all trad. To find the start: walk a couple of hundred metres past the "Jezebel" cracked pillar into the gully to where the track takes a noticable steep turn up the slope to the left. Cross the gully to Egg Rock & contour up towards an arched cave in the main wall. Belay directly below the centre point on the arch. Take the easy ramp up right into the alcove & follow the chimney up to a large ledge & bush (45m). The crux on p2 is mounting the overhang at the start, then an easy scramble up right past the bush boy for 10m & take the left leaning ramp up very easy territory to a gnarly tree just below the top of a pillar & prominent L-facing corner (45m). Up face for 4-5m to the gnarly bush, past the small half cave & follow the line of weakness up past a small gnarly pine tree on the face & into the L facing corner, up corner (crux) & out onto arete, up another 10m to belay ledge (45m). From the belay ledge take any line you choose to the trees above & belay on ledge above these (30m). Up the scooped alcove either way, ending up in the prominent crack on the RHS & topping out via this (45m). FA: Rick White, Ron Collett, Keith Nannery, 1971 FFA: Tony Kelly, Jon Oddie, 1971 | 16 | 210m |
Timothy James Ottaway 7 months agoSteve Peckman 12 months ago
| ||||
| 20 |
Vindaloo Surprise
FA: Bill Strachan, Nikki Strachan, Bret Jewel, 2007 | 19 | 230m | |||||
| 21 |
Seven pitches of adventure. Start: Behind Egg Rock, marked 'DI'. FA: Rick White; Rick White, Dave Reeve, 1968 | 15 | 260m |
Mark Gamble 5 years agoDan Lukis 6 years ago
| ||||
| 22 |
Deception Link Up Route
FA: Rick White & Chris Meadows, | 15 | 280m |
Mark Gamble 6 years agoAlanna 6 years ago
| ||||
| 23 |
Party Trick
FA: Ian Thomas and Rick White, 1973 | 16 A1+ | 370m | |||||
| 24 |
Deception II
Another 10 pitches of adventure. Start: Right along the ledge from DI near a unique four cave rock. FA: Rick White, Graham Simpson, 1968 | 15 | 280m |
Steve Peckman 1 years agoTerry Svingen 7 years ago
| ||||
| 25 |
Captain Nemo
FA: Herb Brandmeier, John deBont, | 18 | 110m | |||||
1.3. Paparazzi Cliff 17 routes in Area
- Summary:
- Sport,? and Trad
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | When Your Ropes Get Stuck, Climb This | 7 | 25m |
Terry Svingen 7 years ago
| ||
| 2 | John's Idea | 17 | 20m |
Craig Turco 1 years agoGareth Llewellin 8 years ago
| ||
| 3 |
| 22 | 20m |
Gareth Llewellin 8 years ago
| ||
| 4 |
FA: Mark Gamble, Terry Svingen, Lillian Sando, | 16 | 50m |
Mark Gamble 6 years agoTerry Svingen 6 years ago
| ||
| 5 |
| 17 | 48m |
Jessica Chou 8 months agoCraig Turco 1 years ago
| ||
| 6 | Luftwaffel p1 LHS | 16 | 25m |
Joanna Parker 4 years agoMark Gamble 4 years ago
| ||
| 7 | Luftwaffel p1 RHS | 18 | 25m |
Brian Stokan
| ||
| 8 |
| 18 | 18m |
Mark Gamble 4 years agoMark Gamble 4 years ago
| ||
| 9 | Maltesers | 17 | 50m |
Jessica Chou 8 months agoannette miller 6 years ago
| ||
| 10 | Have A Minty | 17 | 53m |
annette miller 6 years agoTerry Svingen 7 years ago
| ||
| 11 |
| 18 | 52m |
annette miller 6 years agoMark Gamble 7 years ago
| ||
| 12 |
| 18 | 53m | |||
| 13 | Between The Lines | 20 | 48m |
Brian Stokan
| ||
| 14 | Too Much Herbs | 17 | 53m | |||
| 15 |
FA: John & Herb, | 18 | 48m |
Joanna Parker 4 years ago
| ||
| 16 |
FA: Herb, John, | 18 | 48m |
Brian Stokan
| ||
| 17 |
Undecided
FA: Herb & John, | 19 | 30m | |||
1.4. North West Columns 26 routes in Area
- Summary:
- Trad,?
1.4.1. Legoland 24 routes in Area
- Summary:
- Trad,?
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
| 18 | 7m |
Terry Svingen 6 years ago
| ||
| 2 |
| 17 | 55m |
Terry Svingen 6 years agoMark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
| 3 |
| 15 | 15m |
Terry Svingen 6 years ago
| ||
| 4 |
FA: R.S. & M.G., 2006 | 18 | 65m |
Mark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
| 5 | Thinking of Jenna / Thinking of Jenna Jameson | 8 | 15m |
Terry Svingen 6 years ago
| ||
| 6 |
FA: R.S. & M.G., 2006 | 17 | 20m |
Mark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
| 7 | Little Miss Frigid | 13 | 15m |
Mark Gamble 6 years agoTerry Svingen 6 years ago
| ||
| 8 | Not Worth Naming | 8 | 15m |
Mark Gamble 6 years agoTerry Svingen 6 years ago
| ||
| 9 |
| 15 | 25m |
Terry Svingen 6 years ago
| ||
| 10 |
FA: Terry Svingen, Mark Gamble, 2006 | 17 | 70m |
Mark Gamble 6 years agoTerry Svingen 7 years ago
| ||
| 11 | Peenus Weenus | 10 | 12m |
Terry Svingen 6 years agoMark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
| 12 |
| 16 | 60m |
Terry Svingen 6 years ago
| ||
| 13 |
| 14 | 60m |
Terry Svingen 6 years agoMark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
| 14 |
FA: R.S. & M.G., 2006 | 17 | 35m |
Mark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
| 15 |
| 18 | 55m |
Mark Gamble 6 years agoTerry Svingen 6 years ago
| ||
| 16 | Avalanche | 17 | 25m |
Terry Svingen 6 years agoMark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
| 17 |
FA: Scott Camps & Mark Gamble, 2006 | 19 | 35m |
Mark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
| 18 |
FA: Paul Caffyn, Rick White, | 14 | 23m |
Mark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
| 19 |
FA: Scott Camps & Mark Gamble, 2006 | 21 | 35m |
Mark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
| 20 |
| 15 | 28m |
Terry Svingen 6 years ago
| ||
| 21 | Brazilian | 15 | 28m | |||
| 22 |
| 14 | 25m |
Mark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
| 23 |
| 17 | 25m |
Mark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
| 24 |
Connoisseur's Delight
FA: Trevor Gynther, | |||||
1.4.2. Porn Buttress 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
- Trad,?
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Deep Throat
One of the most unique climbs in 'Queensland'. FA: Rick White, Paul Caffyn, 1974 | 16 | 65m |
Mark Gamble 6 years agoMark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
| 2 | The Last Tango | 20 | 65m | |||
1.5. Virgins Window Buttress 8 routes in Area
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Muff Dive | 14 | 20m |
Terry Svingen 9 years ago
| ||
| 2 | Jo Jo | 15 | 20m | |||
| 3 |
Up the boulder beside the track following the obvious crack. | 16 | 20m |
Dan Lukis 4 years agoDan Lukis 4 years ago
| ||
| 4 |
Very bold up the arete right of Jezebel. Hardly any pro worth speaking of, so prepare for a solo ascent. Fantastic climbing, though. FA: Rob Staszewski, | 18 | 20m | |||
| 5 | Have A Solo | 6 | 7m |
Terry Svingen 8 years ago
| ||
| 6 | Solitaire | 12 | 11m |
Terry Svingen 8 years agoTerry Svingen 8 years ago
| ||
| 7 | Nine One One | 11 | 9m |
Terry Svingen 9 years ago
| ||
| 8 | Lucky Thirteen | 13 | 11m |
Terry Svingen 9 years ago
| ||
1.6. Maggie's Farm 70 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad or Sport
Long/Lat: 152.728181, -28.214981
1.6.1. Baby Buttress 15 routes in Area
- Summary:
- ?,Trad
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
| 22 | 22m |
Mark Gamble 7 years ago
| ||
| 2 | Devils Hole Left | 12 | 25m | |||
| 3 | Devils Hole Centre | 10 | 25m |
Terry Svingen 7 years ago
| ||
| 4 | Devil's Hole - Backside | 10 | 18m | |||
| 5 |
FA: Mark Plenderlieth & Denise Crook, | 22 | 22m | |||
| 6 | Devils Hole Right | 8 | 25m | |||
| 7 |
| 16 | 12m |
Terry Svingen 7 years ago
| ||
| 8 | Aprentices Anvil | 14 | 20m | |||
| 9 | Thwack | 10 | 9m | |||
| 10 | Forqe | 12 | 12m | |||
| 11 | Umbilical Cord | 8 | 18m | |||
| 12 | Wenche's Waist | 16 | 18m | |||
| 13 | Struggler | 14 | 18m | |||
| 14 | Snorkler | 12 | 24m | |||
| 15 | Up Periscope | 15 | 18m | |||
1.6.2. Temple of Golgotha 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
- Trad,Boulder
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Rasp | 19 | 10m | |||
| 2 | File | 12 | 10m | |||
| 3 | File Direct | 17 | 10m | |||
| 4 | Slab | V0 | 5m |
Terry Svingen
| ||
1.6.3. Main Wall 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
- Mostly Unknown
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Rob S. route | 17 | 45m | |||
| 2 |
| 18 | 45m |
Terry Svingen 7 years agoMark Gamble 8 years ago
| ||
| 3 | What Makes A Man Say I Do | 24 | 50m | |||
| 4 |
Ground Effect
FA: Joe Lynch, Rob Staszewski, | 19 | 45m | |||
| 5 |
Suspended Animation
FA: Joe Lynch, Rob Staszewski, | 22 | 90m | |||
| 6 | Bowels Of The Earth | 16 | 91m | |||
| 7 | Subterranean Homesick Blues | 18 | 87m | |||
| 8 | Condemned Cell | 19 | 90m | |||
| 9 | Snake Belly | 20 | ||||
| 10 | Left Hook | 20 | ||||
| 11 | Right Cross | 19 | ||||
1.6.4. Mank Buttress 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Unknown
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Front Door
FA: TC, RW, | 13 | 13m | |||
| 2 |
Back Door
FA: RW, TC, | 8 | 13m | |||
| 3 |
Clit Crack
FA: TC, RW, | 10 | 16m |
Terry Svingen 7 years ago
| ||
| 4 |
Black September
FA: TC, RW, | 12 | 18m | |||
| 5 | Mank Messiah | 12 | 25m | |||
1.6.5. Widow Maker Buttress 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Unknown
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Skyflash
FA: Rob Staszewski, Karen Sippel, | 22 | 45m | |||
| 2 |
Asps Only
FA: Rob Staszewski, Joe Lynch, | 19 | 45m | |||
| 3 |
Unknown corner-1
Corner right of Skyflash FA: Rob Staszewski, Joe Lynch, | 19 | 45m | |||
| 4 |
Widow Maker
FA: TC, RW, | 18 | 65m | |||
| 5 |
Virgin
FA: RW, TC, | 17 | 60m | |||
1.6.6. Widow Maker Cleft 1 route in Area
- Summary:
- All Unknown
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Subtle Key | 17 | 50m | |||
1.6.7. Speed Buttress 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
- Mostly Unknown
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Pusher | 16 | 25m | |||
| 2 | Goofball | 10 | 25m | |||
| 3 | Velocette | 18 | 15m | |||
| 4 |
Broken Wings
FA: Rick McGregor, | 21 | 20m | |||
| 5 |
Unknown-1
FA: Rob Staszewski, Joe Lynch, | 19 | 40m | |||
| 6 |
Unknown-2
FA: Joe Lynch, Rob Staszewski, | 19 | 40m | |||
| 7 | Wounded Bird | 24 | 12m | |||
| 8 |
| 19 | 20m |
Terry Svingen 7 years ago
| ||
| 9 |
| 18 | 15m | |||
| 10 | Lethargy | 17 | 15m | |||
| 11 |
Mother Superior
offwidth just right of "FI" | 18 | 15m |
Mark Gamble 7 years ago
| ||
| 12 | Father Interior | 17 | 10m | |||
1.6.8. Tough Mamma Wall 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
- Mostly Unknown
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Enduro | 20 | 30m | |||
| 2 | Little Queen | 22 | 60m | |||
| 3 |
Magician
FA: Rick White and Ian Thomas, 1974 | 21 | 70m | |||
| 4 |
Tough Mamma
FA: John Hattink, Rick White, | 21 | 60m | |||
| 5 | Souvenir | 16 M3 | 30m | |||
| 6 |
Unknown - PV variant
FA: Joe Lynch, Rob Staszewski, | 19 | 35m | |||
| 7 |
Pretty Vacant
FA: Rob Staszewski, Joe Lynch, | 21 | 35m | |||
| 8 | Grass Lane | 16 | 60m | |||
| 9 | Touch And Go | 16 | 15m | |||
| 10 | Black Magic Woman | 22 | ||||
| 11 | Hard Headed Woman | 18 | ||||
| 12 | Dragon Woman | 20 | ||||
| 13 |
Unknown corner-1
FA: Rick White, | 16 | 60m | |||
| 14 |
Unknown corner-flake
FA: Rick White, | 19 | 60m | |||
1.6.9. End Gully 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Unknown
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Dutch Courage | 19 | 27m | |||
| 2 |
unknown
FA: Joe Lynch, Rob Staszewski, | 20 | 20m | |||
| 3 |
unknown-2
FA: Joe Lynch, Rob Staszewski, | 19 | 20m | |||
1.7. Egg Rock 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Trad
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Poached | 10 | 12m |
Mark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
| 2 | Scrambled | 12 | 20m |
Mark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
| 3 | Fried | 18 | 15m |
Mark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
| 4 | Boiled | 10 | 20m |
Mark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
| 5 | Mild | 18 | 25m | |||
| 6 | Meek | 20 | 25m | |||
| 7 |
Resurrection Corner
Overhanging 90%ba Corner opposite Egg Rock FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows (TRd), | 20 | 18m | |||
1.8. Waterfall Wall 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
- Mostly Unknown
1.8.1. Waterfall Wall 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
- Mostly Unknown
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Yoni
FA: Rick White & Ian Cameron, | 17 | 210m |
Mark Gamble 7 years ago
| ||
| 2 |
The Horne Route
FA: Rick White, | 17 | 130m |
Mark Gamble 7 years ago
| ||
| 3 |
Jug City
"A debatable classic" FA: Rob Staszewski, | 16 | 130m |
Ben Collicoat 7 years ago
| ||
| 4 | Midnight Rambler | 19 | 250m | |||
| 5 | Dateline | 17 | 110m | |||
| 6 | Realisation | 18 | 100m | |||
1.9. The Insignificant Cliff 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Trad
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Two Minute Doodle | 11 | 20m |
Terry Svingen 6 years ago
| ||
| 2 | Tick It Easy | 12 | 25m |
Mark Gamble 4 years agoTerry Svingen 6 years ago
| ||
| 3 | Intacto | 14 | 25m |
Terry Svingen 6 years ago
| ||
| 4 | Nachspiel | 10 | 25m |
Terry Svingen 6 years ago
| ||
| 5 |
Google
FA: Mark Gamble & Daniel Roe, 2006 | 13 | 30m |
Terry Svingen 6 years agoMark Gamble 7 years ago
| ||
1.10. The Annex 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Trad
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
FA: Mark Gamble, Terry Svingen, Steve Daunt., 2008 | 14 | 45m |
Terry Svingen 4 years agoMark Gamble 4 years ago
| ||
| 2 | Serendipity | 14 | 40m |
Mark Gamble 7 years agoTerry Svingen 7 years ago
| ||
| 3 |
| 15 | 40m |
Terry Svingen 7 years agoMark Gamble 7 years ago
| ||
1.11. The Breadloaf 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Trad
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Bread And Butter | 10 | 12m |
Terry Svingen 7 years agoMark Gamble 7 years ago
| ||
| 2 | Bread And Dripping | 12 | 15m |
Mark Gamble 7 years agoTerry Svingen 7 years ago
| ||
| 3 | Bread And Jam | 17 | 18m |
Terry Svingen 7 years agoMark Gamble 7 years ago
| ||
1.12. The Graveyard Ridge 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Unknown
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Danzy
FA: Mark Gamble & Geoff Lawrie, 2006 | 14 | 42m |
Mark Gamble 7 years ago
| ||
| 2 |
Norman
FA: Mark Gamble & Geoff Lawrie, 2006 | 15 | 44m |
Mark Gamble 7 years ago
| ||
| 3 |
Scarface
FA: Mark Gamble & Dave Duffy, 2006 | 15 | 55m |
Mark Gamble 7 years ago
| ||
| 4 |
The Avion Flew
FA: Herb & John, | 19 | 40m | |||
| 5 | The Louisville Slugger | 24 | 15m | |||
| 6 |
The Days Of Our Wives
FA: Allison, Steve & Herb, | 17 | 18m |
Mark Gamble 7 years ago
| ||
| 7 |
Off The Tree
FA: Steve, Allison & Herb, | 18 | 38m | |||
| 8 |
Blinded By The Light
FA: Herb, Steve & Allison, | 20 | 38m | |||
| 9 |
Giggolo On A Spiggolo
FA: Herb & John, | 17 | 40m | |||
| 10 |
Holey Socks
FA: John & Herb, | 18 | 40m | |||
| 11 |
Grits & Gravy
FA: Herb & John, | 18 | 40m | |||
| 12 |
Off The Log
FA: Herb & John, | 19 | 45m | |||
1.13. Little Norway 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Trad
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
| 15 | 22m |
Terry Svingen 6 years agoMark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
| 2 |
| 17 | 23m |
Terry Svingen 6 years agoMark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
| 3 | Peer Gynt | 14 | 40m |
Terry Svingen 6 years agoMark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
1.14. The Watchtower 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Trad
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Easy Skanking | 13 | 25m |
Terry Svingen 6 years ago
| ||
| 2 |
tricky gear, bold top. | 16 | 20m |
Terry Svingen 6 years ago
| ||
1.15. Nympho Buttress 18 routes in Area
- Summary:
- Mostly Unknown
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Clap Trap | 22 | 30m | |||
| 2 | I'll Huff And I'll Puff | 21 | 30m | |||
| 3 | Gecko Corner | 20 | 45m | |||
| 4 | Oberon Is Watching | 21 | 45m | |||
| 5 | Dog's Spew | 25 | 20m | |||
| 6 | All Hands On Dick | 23 | 45m | |||
| 7 | A Return From Exile | 22 | ||||
| 8 | Up For Grabs | 21 | 20m | |||
| 9 |
Nympho P1
FA: Rick White, | 17 | 30m |
Mark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
| 10 |
FA: Tobin Sorensen, Jon Allen & Rick White, | 25 | 80m | |||
| 11 |
Nympho DS
FA: Kim Carrigan & Dave Moss, | 25 | 20m | |||
| 12 |
A Trick Of The Light
Protection: Trad and occasional bolts and pitons Description: A 3 pitch route up to and up the arete (crux) on the right of the Nympho cave. The crux moves are hard for the grade. | 24 | 65m | |||
| 13 | unknown | 22 | 65m | |||
| 14 | Spanish Dancer | 21 | 65m | |||
| 15 | Hidden Agenda | 22 | 65m | |||
| 16 | The Bitter End | 22 | 45m | |||
| 17 | Climax | 18 M4 | 82m | |||
| 18 | Erotica | 17 M4 | 76m | |||
1.16. Shangrilah 1 route in Area
- Summary:
- All Unknown
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Jigsaw P1
FA: Mark Gamble, Dave Duffy, | 15 | 45m |
Mark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
1.17. Ronin Wall 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Trad
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
| 17 | 90m |
Terry Svingen 7 years ago
| ||
| 2 |
Kippersnatch
FA: Rob Staszewski, John Hattink, | 17 | 160m | |||
| 3 |
Got To Get Out
| 17 | 90m | |||
1.18. Grogan Wall 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
- ?,Trad
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Instamatic
FA: Rick White, Tony Kelly, Trevor Gynther, 1972 | 14 | 50m |
Mark Gamble 1 years ago
| ||
| 2 |
Grogan
FA: Rick White, Tony Kelly, Trevor Gynther, | 16 | 42m | |||
| 3 | unknown | 18 | 40m | |||
| 4 |
FA: Andrew Grosser, Mark Gamble, 2008 | 16 | 50m |
Mark Gamble 4 years ago
| ||
1.19. Heartcramp Buttress 1 route in Area
- Summary:
- All Unknown
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Heartcramp
FA: Rick White & Chirs Meadows, | 15 | 21m | |||
1.20. Wedgie's Place 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Unknown
1.20.1. Upper 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
FA: Evan Bieske, Dave Moss, | 22 | 25m | |||
| 2 |
FA: Takashi & Evan Bieske, | 21 | 25m | |||
| 3 |
FA: Andrew Barry & Paul Hoskins, | 22 | 25m | |||
1.20.2. Lower 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Strike Me Down Now Lord | 21 | 18m | |||
| 2 | Something Special | 23 | 20m | |||
| 3 | Nothing Much | 18 | 20m |
Mark Gamble 6 years ago
| ||
| 4 |
FA: Paul Hoskins & Dave Moss, | 24 | 10m | |||
| 5 | A Place To Be | 24 | 20m | |||
| 6 |
unknown
FA: Scott Camps & Stuart Camps, | 25 | 25m | |||
| 7 |
unknown-2
FA: Scott Camps & Stuart Camps, | 24 | 25m | |||
1.21. North East Buttress 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Unknown
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Outish Bong
FA: Trevor Gynther, Tony Kelly, | 19 | 64m | |||
| 2 |
Too Much Talk
FA: Glen Sharrock, Matt Rogerson, | 19 | 70m | |||
| 3 |
unknown
FA: Tony Kelly,, | 18 | 70m | |||
| 4 |
unknown #2
FA: Tony Kelly,, | 18 | 70m | |||
1.22. Tiger Face 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
- ?,Aid
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | The Red Haired Farmer's Daughter | 18 M4 | 120m | |||
| 2 | The Carrigan-Frost Route | 23 | 120m | |||
| 3 | Knocking On Evan's Door | 22 | 140m | |||
| 4 | Zoomers And Speed | 21 | 130m | |||
| 5 |
Plate Of Vegetables
FA: Tony Kelly, Trevor Gynther, | 18 | 120m | |||
| 6 | The Vapors | 18 | 150m | |||
| 7 | Bright-Kembery-Squires Route | 23 | 140m | |||
| 8 |
Stacked Bacon
FA: Trevor Gynther, Alan Stephens, | 18 | 140m | |||
| 9 |
| 22 A1 | 130m | |||
| 10 |
A Slice Of Cold Mutton
FA: Trevor Gynther, Tony Kelly, | 15 M3 | 130m | |||
| 11 |
Tiger Face Escape Route
FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, | 16 | 180m |
Mark Gamble 3 years ago
| ||
1.23. The Hour Glass Cliffs 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Unknown
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Peregrine Assault
FA: Trevor Gynther, Tony Kelly, | 16 | 67m | |||
| 2 |
Hourglass
FA: Trevor Gynther, Robert Staszewski, | 15 | 90m | |||
1.24. The Coffee Shop 1 route in Area
- Summary:
- All Unknown
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Long Black
FA: Mark Gamble & Dave Duffy, 2006 | 14 | 40m |
Mark Gamble 7 years ago
| ||
1.25. The Bat Cave 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Unknown
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Mount Maroute
5 BR's FA: Greg Hambling, Matt Hutton, 1994 | 20 | 21m | |||
| 2 | Angstrom Areté | 24 | 18m | |||
| 3 | Malice In Underland | 22 | 18m | |||
| 4 | The Butcher Of Invercargill | 21 | 15m | |||
| 5 | The Lost Wall | 24 | 18m | |||
| 6 | Camembert Electric | 22 | 18m | |||
| 7 | Slap And Tickle | 25 | 18m | |||
| 8 | Jerry Atric And The Adolescents | 17 | ||||
| 9 | Overnight Sensation | 21 | ||||
1.26. Tiger Face Annex 1 route in Area
- Summary:
- All Unknown
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Tiger Face Escape Route
FA: Rick White & Chris Meadows, | 14 | 140m |
Terry Svingen 5 years ago
| ||
1.27. The Lost Cliff 1 route in Area
- Summary:
- All Unknown
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Lost In A Lost World | 3 | 55m |
Mark Gamble 5 years ago
| ||


