Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
The Lost Cliff | |||||
3 | Lost In A Lost World
Easy looking route about 2/3 the way left along the cliff. Follow a crackline up over the cliff. FA: Mark Gamble, 2007 | 55m | |||
North West Columns Legoland | |||||
17 | ★ Galicia
Start: Up Connoisseur’s Delight to the horizontal break (avoids the nasty unprotected start), then around R onto face of pillar. Up this & top out on the great hand crack. Crux is above the horizontal ledge, a 6-7m run out. FA: Robert Staszewski, Mark Gamble & David Gonzalez, 2006 | 25m | |||
14 | ★★★ Connoisseur's Delight
Start: Up the 3rd crack line L of the ravine (see topo). Exquisite climbing with plenty of gear. Onto the L face to avoid the vegetated start, then step in to the crack line. Take the LH crack to TB. FA: Trevor Gynther & Steve Bell, 1973 | 25m | |||
15 | ★★ Holocaust
Start: The black groove L of Connoisseur’s Delight. Fun climbing to tree, then a chockstone & a dirty vegetated groove to top. Down climb to Connoisseur’s Delight for abseil tree. (Onsight soloed by Rick) FA: Rick White (solo), 1974 | 28m | |||
21 | ★ Thaw
Start: The slab between Holocaust & Green Line. Up the face, trending slightly Right, to crack & gear, down-climb, across Left, then up to horizontal break & some gear, up passing a knob & shallow crack to top & TB. Small gear. FA: Scott Camps & Mark Gamble, 2006 | 35m | |||
14 | ★★ Green Line
Start: The big chimney in the corner L of Holocaust. Terrific chimneying up this boldly, then L thru the overhanging blocks for an exciting finish & up to TB. FA: Paul Caffyn & Rick White, 1974 | 23m | |||
19 | ★ Icicle
Start: The front of the pillar that constitutes Green Line. Up the face, trending slightly Right, passing 2 horizontal breaks, then straight up, some thin cracks & gear on the Right, to a shallow crack on top & top-out. Small gear. FA: Scott Camps & Mark Gamble, 2006 | 35m | |||
17 | ★ Avalanche
The prominent Right leaning chimney a few metres Right of Botti Bliss. Up the crack with good gear (slight run out in the middle), up to overhanging block & a tricky mantle to TB, makes this an exciting lead. FA: Brad Carmady, Mark Gamble & Terry Svingen, 2006 | 25m | |||
18 | ★★ Boti Bliss
Start: The prominent crack line splitting the pillar just R of Micrococcus.
Rao off tree at end of pitch 2. FA: Joe Lynch, Terry Svingen & Lillian Sando, 2006 | 65m, 2 | |||
17 | ★★ Rob S. Route #1
Start: Below the bottomless pillar on the face between Boti Bliss & Micrococcus. Bold start up face to pillar & gear (crux), then traverse R to friable flake/crack, up this on good holds & gear to ledge, then up Boti Bliss another 10m to small rap tree. FA: Robert Staszewski & Mark Gamble, 2006 | 45m | |||
14 | ★★ Micrococcus
Start: 5m Left of BB.
Rap off here. Pitch 2: Terry Svingen, Mark Gamble 30.7.2006 FA: Terry Svingen & Lillian Sando, 2006 | 60m, 2 | |||
16 | ★★ Stranger In The Mirror
Start: The face between PW and Micrococcus. Up the face to ledge, then straight up wide crack. Right under roof and up corner above Micrococcus. FA: Robert Stazewski & Terry Svingen, 2006 | 60m, 2 | |||
10 | Peenus Weenus
Start: On the RHS of the BD pillar. From the top of the pillar, up the off-width, passing the overhang on the LHS. Short & sweet, but pleasant climbing. FA: Mark Gamble & Dan Roe, 2006 | 10m | |||
17 | ★★★ Biggus Dickus
FA: Terry Svingen & Mark Gamble, 2006 | 70m, 2 | |||
15 | ★★ Cryptorchid Wallaby
Start: Just left of BD. Up hand crack then chimney, passing offensive block to ledge. Step right 2m and finish as for BD p1 at TB. FA: Terry Svingen & Lillian Sando, 2006 | 25m | |||
8 | Not Worth Naming
Start: The 3rd crack line L of BD. Up the off-width between the 2 pillars, thru small overhang to top of pillar. Has little to offer but the interesting exit move around the overhanging boulder. Rap off the TOJJ tree. FA: Lillian Sando & Terry Svingen, 2006 | 15m | |||
13 | Little Miss Frigid
Start: Up the cracked face L of NWN Up the easy face following a short flake crack, finish up the not-so-nice body crack to ledge, then up to second ledge & TB. Rap off tree. FA: Terry Svingen & Mark Gamble, 2006 | 15m | |||
17 | ★ Rob S. Route #2
Start: 1m R of LMF. Bold start up to crack & gear (crux), then thin moves & gear to top of ledge & rap off here. FA: Robert Staszewski & Mark Gamble, 2006 | 20m | |||
8 | Thinking of Jenna
Start: Up the chimney L of LMF. Top-out on same pillar. Rap off tree. Rather enjoyable chimney. Take big gear. FA: Terry Svingen & Lillian Sando, 2006 | 15m | |||
18 | ★★ Rob S. Route #3
Start: On the face below tree Left of TOJJ. (see topo)
Rap off tree just below. Crux is getting established in the crack. FA: Robert Staszewski & Mark Gamble, 2006 | 65m | |||
15 | ★ Freia
Start: Left of TOJJ A short hand crack in the corner left of TOJJ just left of a prominent off-width. Short, but sweet! Walk down to TOJJ tree for rap. FA: Terry Svingen, Lillian Sando & Simon Inglis, 2006 | 15m | |||
17 | ★★ No Herbs In My Backyard
Start: In the alcove Left of TOJJ, the hand crack Right of the big black corner.
FA: Terry Svingen & Mark Gamble, 2006 | 50m, 2 | |||
18 | ★★ NHIMB VS
Start: A few metres left of NHIMB, up the crack to the ledge. This variant start makes the overall climb even better. FA: Terry Svingen & Brad Carmady, 2006 | 15m | |||
North West Columns Porn Buttress | |||||
16 | ★★★ Deep Throat
One of the most unique climbs in Queensland. Climbs the separated pillar. P1 20m - start up the pile of shattered blocks, to first gear (cam) at 6m. Spaced gear (cams) alternates after this. A Big Bro #5 (or two?) essential to protect crux - narrow blank chimney, which leads into a chamber & gear. Belay here is good. P2 15m - Out LHS of chamber, onto face of pillar, up this to big ledge & TB. P3 30M - Finish up the crack in the RH buttress above (easier climbing). FA: Rick White & Paul Caffyn, 1974 | 65m, 3 | |||
16 | ★★ Deep Throat-VF
FA: Rick White & Paul Caffyn, 1974 | 65m, 3 | |||
19 | Last Tango
P1 20m - Up Deep Throat to chamber & belay. P2 45m - Exit this out right to broken rock & up this to positive ledge & belay. FA: Rick White & John Hattink, 1974 | 65m, 2 | |||
Tiger Face Annex | |||||
10 | Tiger Face Escape Route
FA: Rick White & Chris Meadows, 1968 | 130m, 2 | |||
The Graveyard Ridge | |||||
18 | Tiger Face Escape Route
FA: Rick White & Chris Meadows, 1968 | 35m, 3 | |||
14 | Danzy
Start: 4m Left of Norman, in a small, Left facing corner. Straight up (tricky mantle), to 2nd small tree, then step Left around the arête & onto face. Left up to tree, then follow diagonal crack up to top-out around Bushboy & large tree. An assortment of small to medium gear. Rap off same tree as for Norman. A poor route over loose rock. FA: Mark Gamble & Geoff Lawrie, 2006 | 42m | |||
15 | Norman
Start: 20m Left of Scarface arete & below a crack with a tree in it about 8-10m up. Up the crack on the RHS to surmount the unprotected bulge (tricky mantle), then step back Left into the crack & up this to tree. Then follow a series of vegetated corners & cracks, steepening to a small overhanging flake, around this, then up Left when possible to the tree & up 5m to large TB. An assortment of small to medium gear. A manky affair, not worth repeating. FA: Mark Gamble & Geoff Lawrie, 2006 | 44m | |||
15 | Scarface
Start: From TAF, head Left around the corner up a short pillar (4m) to the ledge/alcove above; the route starts in the corner on the Right.
Not worth repeating. I took a fall at the top of the left trending rise & zippered the gear, resulting in a piece falling on my face, hence the name was born. FA: Mark Gamble & Joe Lynch, 2006 FFA: Mark Gamble & David Duffy, 2006 | 55m, 2 | |||
19 | The Avion Flew
Start 8m Left of TLS. Take wires and small cams. You can approach the overhang from either side, the crux is after the overhang. Plenty of gear higher up. Re-equipped with RBs in 2020. FA: Herb & John, 2005 | 40m, 11 | |||
21 | The Days Of Our Wives
Start: 2m Left of OTT. Up blunt the arête. Thin & committing start, up to RB, then #2 cam, then 7 RBs to top. Take #2 cam + small wires. Re-equipped with RBs in 2020. FA: Alison Greenhalgh, Steve Waite & Herb Brandmeier, 2005 | 18m, 8 | |||
18 | Off The Tree
Start: Between the cliff & the tree, 3m Left of BBTL. Up slinging the tree, then step off RHS & up to 1st bolt at 7m. Follow the crack all the way to the top, passing another 4 RBs, or climb the last bit of BBTL. Re-equippedwith RBs in 2020. FA: Steve Waite, Alison Greenhalgh & Herb Brandmeier, 2005 | 38m, 5 | |||
20 | Blinded By The Light
Start: 2m Left of GOAS. Up crack into shallow V groove (2RBs), then left onto face. Up this passing another 9 RBs. Take big wires and big cams. Try avoiding it early afternoon because you’ll have the sun directly in your eyes. Re-equipped with RBs in 2020. FA: Herb Brandmeier, Steve Waite & Alison Greenhalgh, 2005 | 38m, 11 | |||
17 | Giggolo On A Spiggolo
Climb the arête just Left of HS. Take a full rack. Big cams. (1 RB, 5 carrots) FA: Herb Brandmeier & John Du Bont, 2005 | 40m, 6 | |||
18 | Holey Socks
Start: 10m Left of GAG. Climb the face with the diagonal cracks to the Right of the wedged-in tree. Then up to the big corner to the top. All trad up a classic crack-line. FA: John Du Bont & Herb Brandmeier, 2005 | 40m | |||
18 | Grits And Gravy
Start: behind the log just Left of OTL, below the RB. Up to RB, then up as far as you can go, after 9th runner, move Right onto OTL to finish. Take small cams. (! RB, 12 carrots) FA: Herb Brandmeier & John Du Bont, 2005 | 40m, 13 | |||
21 | Off The Log
Start: As of 2020, the log one climbed to start the route has collapsed. Climb the thin crack (gear), or take the ridge line on the Right, and head up to the first BR about 10m up, then gear after that. Take 15 runners min., and a full rack. No big cams. 10 RBs. Re-equipped with RBs in 2020. FA: Herb Brandmeier & John Du Bont, 2005 | 45m, 10 | |||
Little Norway | |||||
15 | ★★★ Solveig's Song
FA: Mark Gamble & Terry Svingen, 2006 | 22m | |||
17 | ★★ The Scream
FA: Terry Svingen & Mark Gamble, 2006 | 23m | |||
14 | ★ Peer Gynt
FA: Terry Svingen & Mark Gamble, 2006 | 40m | |||
Paparazzi Cliff | |||||
16 | Where's Autumn
Twin cracks starting 2m right of 'Spring' in front of small Ironbark. Committing and fun start, take small cams and nuts. Take left line up to ledge, past tree half way and continue on to fault line above to top. FFA: Albert Shaw & Peter Beams, 21 Sep 2015 | 22m | |||
5 | Easy Access Route
This uninspiring line ascends the wide corner left of 1st cave. Find the easy way up to large ledge below corner. Up past two large chockstones and into gully. Scramble up rightwards to top. FFA: Herb Brandmeier & John DeBont, 2004 | 25m | |||
16 | ★★ Her Bliss
Up the obvious water runnel 2m right of Smile, 2m left of Brunhilde. Up gully at top, then out right. Belay from tree. Good gear all the way. FA: Mark Gamble, Terry Svingen & Lillian Sando, 2006 | 50m | |||
18 | ★★ Shameless Steeler's Foes
The sinuous crack/groove right of the 3rd cave, which steepens notably after 30m. Great climbing despite vegetated appearance. FFA: Rob Staszewski & Terry Svingen, 2004 | 53m, 2 | |||
17 | ★ Too Much Herb
The next sinuous crack/groove that curves distinctively around the smaller 4th cave. Not the greatest looking climb, but some hidden pleasures. FFA: Robert Staszewski & Terry Svingen, 2004 | 53m, 2 | |||
The Annex | |||||
14 | ★ Serendipity - Variant
Up Serendipity to the crack on the left, follow this to the top. FA: Mark Gamble, Terry Svingen & Steve Daunt., 2008 | 45m | |||
14 | ★ Serendipity
Spot the obvious groove left of the main arête. Up to slabby stance in left-facing corner. Follow twin-crack to the top of the pillar. FA: Terry Svingen & Simon Inglis, 2005 | 40m | |||
15 | ★★ Hitchcock Railway
Start below the split arête. Follow thin, left tending crack to below small roof. Past this and continue up hand-crack to ledge, then up the steeper finger/hand-crack back in corner, just to finish with a short off-width to top of pillar. FA: Terry Svingen, Simon Inglis & Lillian Sando, 2005 | 40m | |||
The Watchtower | |||||
13 | Easy Skanking
This climb boasts being the first free route to the top, but that's where the boasting ends: If you must do this route; ascend the obvious groove on the left hand side of the buttress. A manky start, followed by one of two alternatives: if you're skinny enough, chimney away, if not, follow the right hand off-width. Big gear. FA: Terry Svingen & Lillian Sando, 2006 | 25m | |||
16 | ★★ Little Miss Naughty
This is quite a nice little offering. Follows the thin crack line in the last shallow corner of the buttress, just before the gully. In worthy Maroon tradition, the gear gets thinner towards the top & more technical. FA: Terry Svingen & Lillian Sando, 2006 | 20m | |||
The Insignificant Cliff | |||||
11 | Two Minute Doodle
The first arête on the East side (left) of the cliff. An obvious broken crack line up the centre of the arête, past a small tree & blocky finish to ledge & tree belay. FA: Terry Svingen & Lillian Sando, 2007 | 20m | |||
12 | Tick It Easy
Up the low angled NE arête, finish up short ridge to tree belay. FA: Terry Svingen & Lillian Sando, 2007 | 25m | |||
14 | ★ Intacto
The first obvious corner of N-facing cliffs (immediately right of TIE). Up left corner crack. Onto face at about 7m, continuing up the obvious wide crack, finish up the blocky gully to tree. FA: Terry Svingen & Lillian Sando, 2006 | 25m | |||
10 | Nachspiel
The second corner going right. Again, follow L corner crack for about 10m, then scramble across vegetation to short, two-sided corner. Finish up to Intacto tree. Not much to write home about. FA: Terry Svingen, 2006 | 25m | |||
13 | Google
Up the thin crackline in the middle of the cliff, then slightly left, scramble across ledge and finish up obvious wide chimney to ledge & tree belay. FA: Mark Gamble, Daniel Roe & David Duffy, 2006 | 35m | |||
Tiger Face | |||||
18 | Kelly-Gynther Route
Start: At a block (shown on topo), below a crackline on a clean face, far LHS of Tiger Face, just Right of The N.E. Buttress. Up the crack-line, to the overhang, & up through this. FA: Tony Kelly & Trevor Gynther, 1972 | 70m, 2 | |||
23 | Bright-Kembery-Squires Route
Start: about 50-70m Right of the N. E. Buttress, 40-50m Left of TRHFD. Height is a best estimate only. Route details & pitches unknown. FA: Saul Squires, Miles Bright & Neil Kembery | 120m, 2 | |||
23 | Sharrock Route #1
Start: About 40-50m downhill from TRHFD. Unknown details of route. Height & grade are guesstimates. FA: Glen Sharrock, 1995 | 120m, 1 | |||
Sharrock Route #2
Up the sloping corner. Height & grade are unknown. FA: Glen Sharrock | 120m, 2 | ||||
23 | The Carrigan-Frost Route
Start: at the first easy access section of cliff, behind a big gum tree (see photo topo).
(Height is approx.) Kim: pitches 1&3; Chris: pitch 2 FA: Kim Carrigan & Chric Frost, 1996 | 120m, 3 | |||
22 | Knocking On Evan's Door
Start: Right of TC-FR. Shares pitch 1 with Zoomers On Speed.
(Route length is approximate) FA: Chris Frost & Jon Pearson, 1989 | 120m, 4 | |||
22 | Zoomers On Speed
Start: Right of SQ & TC-FR.
(Route length is approximate) FA: evan bieske, Bill Lukin & Chris Frost, 1987 | 120m, 4 | |||
19 | Plate Of Vegetables
(Route lengths are approximate, but can be done in 3 pitches on today's 60m ropes.) Named at the restaurant in Beaudesert, after the FA. Tony took a big fall on pitch 2, running it out with no modern gear back then & ended up straddling a Bushboy stump. FA: Tony Kelly & Trevor Gynther, 1972 | 120m, 4 | |||
18 | The Vapors
Start: First pitch is possibly Plate Of Vegetables, heading out Right.
(Route length is approximate. Data from Screamer mag, Spring 1989 & Chris Frost.) FA: Chris Frost & Bill Lukin, 1986 | 130m, 5 | |||
19 | Kelvinator Country
FA: evan bieske & Peter Lehman, 1987 | 120m, 3 | |||
17 | Fortune Cookie
Start: about 70m Left of The Graveyard Ridge corner, just left of a 2m corner.
FA: Robert Staszewski & Trevor Gynther, 1978 | 140m, 4 | |||
18 | Stacked Bacon
Start: Roughly 15-20m left of where The Graveyard Ridge meets The Tiger Face. A prominent column + crack/corner (see topo).
(Highest part of the cliff, route length is approximate.) Note: these are Trevor's original 1975 notes, so "trees" may no longer exist. FA: Trevor Gynther & Alan Stephens, 1975 | 140m, 2 | |||
North East Buttress | |||||
18 | The Unknown
Look for the big, round boulder sitting on top of the route. Start far Left, almost on DII start, below a small gum tree growing out of the cliff face about 8m up. Carrots = you will need bolt plates. Small to medium cams, small to medium wires, about 20 quickdraws. Gear up to first carrot about 6-7m Left above the gum tree. Route wanders a bit, following the trad lines. Good gear in the crack on the Right. Next bolt about 10-12m up, quickly followed by another. Spaced trad gear in cracks to next bolt, then to ledge with chains on arete. 8m to final chains & top-out above. FA: Herb Brandmeier & John du Bont, 2005 | 55m, 5 | |||
19 | Too Much Talk
Right of Outish Bong, around the middle of the N.E. Buttress. FA: Glen Sharrock & Matt Rogerson | 70m, 2, 2 | |||
16 | Don't Bug Me
Start: about 15m Left of the corner to the Tiger Face, in a shallow groove, below a nice corner at the top.
FA: Robert Staszewski & Scott Fielding, 2008 | 60m | |||
16 | Tuesday Morning Walk
Start: at the far Right corner, where the cliff becomes The Tiger Face, below a cleanish grey pillar with an offwidth crack at the top.
FA: Robert Staszewski & Gary Alan, 2008 | 60m | |||
The Hourglass Cliffs Grey Wall | |||||
15 | ★★ Stigma
Start at the "S" below the Right sweeping overhang above. Follow the line of spaced RBs (good gear between), slightly left trending to the 5th RB below the orange overhang, then trend diagonally up & right (more gear to 6th bolt) towards anchors on YKROMD, passing another RB shared with YKROMD. Brilliant climbing on grippy rock, with good gear between the RBs. Small wires, cams & tricams. FA: Herb Brandmeier & John de Bont, 2010 | 45m, 7 | |||
14 | ★★ Your Karma Ran Over My Dogma
A few meters down the slope from Stigma - initialled KD. Good gear to first RB, beautiful climbing over grippy, featured rock with good gear between the RBs. Straight up to the chains. Shares anchor with Stigma + Dogma. Small wires, cams & tricams. FA: Herb Brandmeier & John de Bont, 2010 | 40m, 7 | |||
16 | No Bolts Today
Start up the short, wide crack of YKROMD, then up the line of least resistance, avoiding the bolts to anchors on ledge. FA: Robert Staszewski & Ron Collett, 2008 | 40m | |||
16 | ★ Dogma
Start at the "D" - 5m down the slope from YKROMD. Left leaning route. Tricky start to very low first bolt, then easy up to 5th RB at headwall, slab moves to 7th, big run-out from 7th to 8th RB = small gear up to 8th bolt on face, (Tricams & offsets are ideal in the pockety rock), then 2 more RBs bunched up to crux - exiting to chains. Shares chains with the previous 2 routes. FA: Herb Brandmeier & John de Bont, 2010 | 42m, 10 | |||
17 | ★ Karma
2m Right of Dogma. Initialled K. Slightly left trending route. 1st RB is 5m up, hidden atop a block (gear below it if needed). Big run-out (12+m) from 7th to 8th bolt, but plenty of small gear available. Small wires, offsets, tricams & cams. Left trending from 8th & 9th RB to chains (gear placements at the top-out if desired). FA: Herb Brandmeier & John de Bont, 2010 | 42m, 9 | |||
20 | Pat Malone
About 2m Right of Black Velvet. Initialled "PM".
FA: Herb Brandmeier & John de Bont, 2010 | 55m, 2, 16 | |||
15 | Hourglass
Start below the prominent pillar, shaped like an hourglass.
FA: Trevor Gynther & Robert Staszewski, 1980 | 60m, 2 | |||
18 | Peregrine Assault
30m or so from the lh side: down the slope till you arrive at the prominent rib:
(Original RURP description) NB: This route was done back in the day when 40m ropes were the only ones available. One could, in theory, run the whole lot together with smart management of one's runners. FA: Trevor Gynther & Tony Kelly, 1972 | 67m, 3 | |||
The Hourglass Cliffs | |||||
18 | You Are Wirgin No?
Start: 20m down Right of the Hourglass pillar, in front of a large spotted gum.
FA: Robert Staszewski & Glynn Thomas, 1994 | 80m, 3 | |||
17 | Early Summer
Start: 50m down Right of the Hourglass pillar, there is a corner which sweeps up, then out right, start below this.
FA: Robert Staszweski & John Mendoza, 1994 | 95m, 3 | |||
unknown
Start: Just left of Sometimes I Do. Up the crackline, to a FH & mallion, continue up, passing another FH. FA: unknown | 2 | ||||
18 | Sometimes I Do
Up the slope, right of the Frogmouth Cave. Crack & face climbing. The first bolt can be spotted from the ground. FA: Mark Plenderleith & Denise Crook, 1992 | 35m, 2 | |||
Heartcramp Buttress | |||||
15 | Heartcramp
A thin crackline up through a small cave. Up in the corner, delicate to shelf, up to the small cave, then out left & thin wall to finish. FA: Rick White & Chris Meadows, 1968 | 22m | |||
Nympho Buttress | |||||
22 | Clap Trap
Start: The square dot furtherest left at the crag. Easy start (gear up the crack) and easy finish (no gear), with a dynamic crux in the middle, passing 2 FHs & a bolt (shared with IHAIP), to chains on tree above. FA: unknown | 25m, 3 | |||
20 | Modern Inconveniences
Good for a warm up. Start: At the dot below the crack, around the arête from IHAIP. Up easy pillar and into tricky corner with thoughtful protection. Left through roof & up R of the belay tree (CT & IHAIP), then into nice finger crack with good gear. Chains on tree. Needs a cool head down low. FA: Robert Staszewski & Fred From, 1983 | 40m | |||
21 | Oberon Is Watching
Start: At the dot 1m R of GC. Excellent climbing, easier than it looks. Rap chains at top. FA: unknown | 45m | |||
25 | Dog's Spew
Start: The dot in the shallow L facing corner a few metres R of OIW. Up the very blank L trending corner to the top of the pillar. The name says it all. Rap chains at top. FA: unknown | 20m | |||
23 | All Hands On Dick
Start: The dot on the small pillar a few metres R of DS. Up L trending easy face/crack & into corner, onto sharp arête & follow FHs up the face. FA: unknown | 45m, 2 | |||
22 | A Return From Exile
Start: The dot just R of the small All Hands On Dick pillar. An acrobatic little number. Up the crack line (gear) to the first bolt 7-8m up, then up passing 2 more BRs, (don’t despair at the overhang, but locate the hidden pocket), then 5 FHs to chains at top. Shares chains with UFG. FA: unknown | 20m, 8 | |||
21 | Up For Grabs
Start: just Right of ARFE - the middle dot (in the alcove). Fairly easy for the grade; two hard moves. Up trending R following the flakes & cracks into the cave. One BR, the rest is trad. Shares chains with ARFE. FA: unknown | 20m, 1 | |||
17 | ★ The Nympho P1
Start below cave – the RH dot in the alcove below the FH. Up on good flakes & gear to the pillar, up to the FH, then bold moves above the FH (no more gear) thru the overhang & into the cave. Belay chains on left. FA: Rick White & Ian Cameron, 1969 | 30m, 1 | |||
24 | ★★ The Nympho
One of Australia’s classic climbs, but only for the chosen few.
FA: Rick White & Ian Cameron (aided), 1969 FFA: Tobin Sorensen & Jon Allen, 1979 | 78m, 3, 1 | |||
25 | The Nympho - Direct Pitch 2
NB: gear runs out & potential for ground fall till next gear is reached in the upper flake. FA: Kim Carrigan & Dave Moss, 1984 | 20m | |||
25 | A Trick Of The Light
Start: Faint dot on the rock a few metres R of the above alcove.
Rap chains at top. FA: unknown | 65m, 2, 5 | |||
25 | unknown
Start: A Trick Of The Light.
FA: unknown | 65m, 2, 5 | |||
21 | Spanish Dancer
Start: The painted dot a few metres right of ATOTL. The quality of the rock leaves something to be desired in places, but the climb well and truly makes up for it. Can be done easily in 2 Pitches, 1st chain on P1 is for raping down; second chains are much more comfortable for belaying.
| 65m, 2 | |||
22 | Hidden Agenda
Start: At the dot (marked HA & BE) below the shallow cave – a few metres R of SD.
FA: unknown | 65m, 2, 2 |