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Summary

Technical vertical faces, pumpy overhangs, stamina routes, boulder problems in the sky, steep cave climbing, this crag has it all. Great summer climbing with brilliant views from the seaside walls

Description

Sportclimbing at Mt Ninderry began in 2010 with the now-classic Nitroglycerin. Prior to this occasional parties ventured up the odd trad route, though this activity went largely unrecorded. Many of the new climbs are true sportroutes while others are ''adventure sport'' with varying rock quality and trickier routefinding. A handful of long slings are handy and a 60m rope will suffice for most routes.

Access issues

Mt Ninderry is an access sensitive area. The landowner atop Ninderry Rise Estate has made it clear he does not want people trespassing on his property. Access now is from Yandina-Coolum Rd - take Barcrest Drive to the end, turn L onto Tinarra Close and follow to the cul-de-sac. Park in front of the war memorial gardens. At the top of the gardens you'll find a couple of old seats beneath mango trees. There's a cairn behind them and a trail leading up through long grass. Easy 15-20mins walk and you arrive near the Deadly When Aroused pillar. Turn L to Nitro/caves area and R to seaside walls.

Ethic

Wear a helmet, use a stick clip, be safe and tread lightly and quietly. Be careful of the grass trees and orchids. Don't impinge upon potential trad routes with new bolts. Respect tagged projects and the individuality of existing lines. And please dispose of human waste properly!

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 Bitter Sweet Break-off Sport 11m, 4

10min walk east of Sayonara Bitches along the cliff base, facing east. Stick clip first bolt. Start in centre left of cave and follow the obvious rib through the overhang onto the slightly hung headwall.

FFA: Michael Jansen, 2013

FFA: Brenton Owens, 2013

2

Start 2m right of BSB, Superman start into the roof following obvious line to headwall. Joining BSB at its 4th bolt.

FFA: Michael Jansen, 2013

3
20 Sayonara Bitches Sport 27m

Eastern most route on the seaside walls. Bit of a ramble, however, the steepest 20 you'll ever climb for the top 6 metres!

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012

4
22 * The Last Airbender Sport 18m, 7

Hidden cave gem! Up PPP then veer R and downclimb behind PPP pillar. Ascends back wall trending L. Tree belay on ledge, then walk off and rap down ETN.

FFA: Jerome, 2010

5

Hard moves through roof then sustained wall above to anchors.

FFA: Jerome, 2010

6

Fun, varied climbing. Hard move pulling onto arete feature, and then sustained wall climbing to anchors just before ledge. If the runout looks a tad long between first and second bolt, there is a medium sized cam spot in the roof.

FFA: Matt Schimke, Terry Forbes, 2012

7
19 * Neo Nasi Goreng Sport 25m, 9

Bouldery start (don't use tree, yes sensei!) a few metres to the right of ETN. Move left at second bolt onto face with some thin climbing before encountering a steep top with chain just below lip.

FA: Matt Schimke, Terry Forbes, 2013

8
19 *** Enter The Ninja Sport 27m, 6

Arete RHS; Begin up crack or face to high first bolt near arete. Engaging climbing for the confident leader. Now with anchors for lower-off.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2010

9
25 ** Katana Sport 28m, 7

Other side of arete from ETN. Use long runner on first bolt of ETN then L around arête to high FH on face. Jugs and crimps to the break. A move L on edges sets you up to attack the face. Sustained crimping over the bulge leads back to the arête and a welcome FH. Up arete to break, final bolt (long runner) and anchors of ETN.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2010

10
19 Scattered Ashes Trad 28m

Climb the (somewhat green!) crack and flake L of enter the ninja, with some interference from the tree. Head L on the ledge and up the crack dissecting the bulging buttress. Take care with the chockstones and blocks up high to topout on ledge w/ anchors.

FA: Unknown

FFA: Patrick Simon, 2010

11
25 ** The Iron Fist Sport 13m, 5

Face and rooflet between unclimbed wide crack and SA. Climb pitch1 of FitS then R to belay. Start up crimps, through a bouldery section, then quest to glory with more moderate climbing through the overhang to an exposed finish. Maybe a bit easier for climbers taller than 5'10?

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2013

12
24 ** Fletcher in the Sky Sport 26m, 11

Grade 18 (5BR) to ledge - optional belay - then excellent sustained crimping to chains. Really good climb in a great position!

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012

13
20 ** Eden's Racksports Trad 29m

Delicately ascend through the large easy vegetated gully. Use long slings to reduce drag for 2nd half or break the whole climb into 2 pitches. Traverse right at the easy ground for 4 meters to the obvious crack. Plug in your gear and enjoy pro until about 3 meters from the top where you break left to easier ground. Tree belay. Easy walk to Katana. Very loose large stuff at top-out.

FA: Unknown

FFA: Patrick Simon, Jonathon Kilchester, 2011

14
24 ** Aileen's Arete Sport 9m, 5

L of ER crack. Accessed by P1 of FitS, then L to belay on ledge. Leftward diagonal line up face to arete. Bouldery, packs a punch!

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2013

Ocean vista wall

The following routes exist on the large Ocean Vista Wall facing R to L. This wall is in shade from about 10:30am in summer and all day in winter. Follow the steps up gully to access the sector.

15
24 ** Mad Cows On Acid Sport 25m, 11

Right end route on Ocean Vista Wall, behind the arch.

FFA: Jerome, 2011

16
25 * Full Contact Sport 27m, 12

Middle line out of cave. If lead in one pitch, anchor in and pull the rope through the first 4 draws before proceeding to reduce drag.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

17
22 * Full Contact p1 Sport 10m, 4

Not bad in it's own right.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

18
25 * Bloodsport Sport 27m

The L hand line out the cave above Full Contact P1. Fun tough boulder problem through the steeps!

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012

19
23 * Double Dragon (Right) Sport 24m, 9

Very sustained and hard if you stick to the The Line. If you traverse R to the cave for sleep then u soo weeaaakkk!!!

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

20
25 * Double Dragon (Left) Sport 25m, 10

Shares the start with it's twin, then L onto the ledge. Direct up following the bolts through crimpy face. Maybe a tad contrived but does not climb the easy stuff out L. Trend R above hard section to join the top of DDR. Low-end 25.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

21
22 * Little Buddha Sport 12m, 4

Black face/arete. Punchy little route. Sustained difficulty with long moves between good holds. Good stuff! May get an extension soon…

FFA: Ben O'Connell, 2010

22
26 *** Zazen Sport 22m, 9

Good compression boulder problem then glory to the chains!

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2010

23
24 ** Gone Windsurfing Sport 25m, 7

Wildly fun! Recommended for the experience. Don't mistake the last bolt with the mallion on it for the finish - double bolt anchors at the top.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2010

24
25 ** Funnel Web Sport 20m, 9

Out cave from the back

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

25
27 ** Kill Bill Sport 15m, 8

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2012

26
25 Killer Funnel Web Sport 20m

First two bolts of Kill Bill to its third FH (but don't clip it) before traversing R into Funnel Web at its third FH and finishing up this.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2012

Lower tier

The following three routes are located on a small lower tier of rock under the main cliff. To access, fix a rope to the bolt at the top of the gully, just beneath the start of Funnel Web, and abseil down.

27
26 *** Sweep The Leg Sport 10m, 6

On the little wall down gully below FW. Very technical climbing with a diabolical crux. May need some lichen cleaned off. Packs it in for a short route!

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

28
24 ** Cobra Kai Karate Club Sport 11m, 5

L of STL. Tough crux, but fall-offable all the way!

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

29
21 No Can Defend Sport 12m, 4

L of CKKC. Good little route with a few difficult sections and an excellent warmup for the harder stuff around here.

FFA: Dan Mackenzie, Tom Gallagher, 2012

Past lower tier

Now back up to Ocean Vista Wall above...

30
22 *** Ninja Tactics Sport 18m, 7

On Ocean Vista Wall. Clip first bolt from large boulder and pull onto the crux start. Pocketed face above to lower off. Classic.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2010

31
22 * Sho Kosugi Sport 20m, 7

Dappled face into cave. Use long sling (about a metre) on bolt in cave then R onto the giant fang (bolt on tip)! Up to DBB. Very exciting!

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2010

32
22 * Yoshimi Battles Sport 25m

SK into cave, then L line of bolts out cave to very top of wall. Exposed exciting finish!

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012

33

Face and blunt arete just L of manky crack. Joins COYS in cave.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2010

34
21 Choke On Your Sushi Sport 18m, 5

Good route at the grade. Stickclip recommended. Use long draw in cave. Beware loose rock in top section but it doesn't detract from the experience.

FFA: Jerome, 2010

35

Linkup COYS-FPPEHT-SK

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012

36
22 One Inch Punch Sport 9m

Short and sharp! L side of cave and cool little headwall above. Sweet exposure for a short route.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

Pinnacle

The following 2 routes climb the pinnacle high on the L. Take a couple of long slings (1mtr +) to lower off anchors on ledge, or rappel instead.

37
21 Indi and The Samurai Sport 9m, 3

Dappled face of high pinnacle. Climbs the face proper not the crack and flake to the R (maybe only grade 18 this way?). If done properly this route is short, thin and technical. Use long slings (1.5mtr on anchors which it shares with IaTN) if setting up TR.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2010

38
19 Indi and The Ninja Sport 11m, 4

Steep arete on pinnacle. What it lacks in length it makes up for with exposure and pumpiness! Use 1+mtr slings on anchors if lowering or alternatively abseil off to clean.

FFA: Kenny Walker, Luke Sonnenburg, 2010

The next route can be found at ground level at the bottom of the gully and just before moving around to the following two routes. It is located almost directly beneath STL.

39
19 The Big Boss Sport 12m, 6

The next route can be found at ground level at the bottom of the gully and just before moving around to the following two routes. It is located almost directly beneath STL.

FA: Matt Schimke

40
21 * Deadly When Aroused Sport 18m, 9

On isolated pillar between 2 areas, just right of where the new track hits the cliff. Look for the tiny cave with bolts above it. Hard steep bouldery start followed by a few intersting sections throughout. Use long runner on 3rd. Air-y climbing up arete to chains out L.

FFA: John 'Deadly with the Ladies' Davies, 2011

41
23 *** Kachinderry Sport 17m, 9

Variant finish to DWA. At the roof hand traverse R along the lip then crank for the top. Powerful moves and a tricky mantle. Wildly exposed fun climbing which deserves to be more popular.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

Caves area

This area is a ten minute walk from the Ocean Vista Wall around the SW side of the mountain. Winter sports virtually all-day shade while in summer some routes see afternoon sun. Due to the complex architecture, a diverse style of routes can be found, though steep is generally the rule. Peregrines stifle climbing and development here between July and Dec. Hungry mozzies also like to hang around depending on conditions so bring some spray!

42
25 Knuckleduster Sport 17m, 9

R side of Nitro Wall. Begin under bulge. Use some longer runners in first half. Above 5th bolt climb direct up cracked face and avoid the choosy scramble up the pillar out L (subtract a grade this way). Keeps punching all the way to the chains!

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012

43
24 ** Harvey Wallbanger Sport 15m, 7

Easy to begin then up steep white wall to black headwall. Trends L at the obvious slopey break, then up past last bolt to chains.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

44
29 Semtex Sport 7

Really cool low dyno (unless you're Long-arms Schimke), then a baffling upper crux which can be solved with some knee-trickery. Hard to grade as the sequence is short, but hard/bizarre. It goes without saying the chalked holds out right on Harvey Wallbanger are not in. 7 ringbolts to anchors. Rebolted December 2013.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2012

45
25 ** Nitroglycerin Sport 15m, 5

Already a classic

FA: Jerome, 1992

FFA: Jerome, 2011

46
26 *** Laudanum-Nitro Linkup Sport 15m, 6

First 5 bolts of L, then naturally R into the business section of Nitro. Hard crimpy boulder problem into grade 24 climbing.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012

47
*** (Laudanum - Project - Kenny) Sport Project 14m, 7

Easy past a few bolts, then hard crimping followed by sustained climbing into a powerful top crux. The back wall/flying buttress to the L is out until the anchors. Grade 28 or so.

Set by Kenny Walker

48

Very limestone-esque climbing up face and corner L of flying buttress

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2011

49
22 ** The Korova Milkbar Sport 20m

Fun steep monkeying on amazingly solid funk! Committing and rewarding. Make sure you don't miss the fifth bolt, which is hiding above one of the first rooflets.

FA: Matt Schimke, Terry Forbes

50
22 ** She Who Snoozes Sport 20m, 10

Starts on higher terrace just right of Dontworry.com. Slab past three bolts under roof. Monkey out and through on huge holds. Take the left side of the arête past a harder move, then slab headwall.

FA: Lee & Sam Cujes, John O'Brien, 2013

51
21 *** Dontworry.com Sport 25m, 10

Slab to headwall to exposed step-around to techy corner. A bit of everything! If you're up for the adventure it's not to be missed.

FFA: Jerome, 2011

52
25 ** Ninderry Air Sport 25m, 11

Easy to find; it’s the biggest roof on the mountain. Much less intimidating than it looks from below. Start 6m L of Dontworry.com at the tree. Prepare yourself for some adventure-sport climbing! Take the time to get the rigging right for this one or you won’t be able to clip the anchor due to drag. Doable with a single rope if you use LOTS of long slings. Easy ramble to the roof. Punch the juggy roof, turn the lip and if you’ve done everything right you’ll be able to pull rope for the anchor clip :) Impossible to clean from the anchor, so back-jump the roof and lower-off. Rebolted Dec 2013.

FFA: Lee Cujes, Sam Cujes, JJ O'Brien, 2012

53

3m L of NA. Up runout, easy jugs for three ringbolts (long slings). Pull L into steep runnel and thug up to the base of 50 degree overhung headwall (grade 18 to here). The permadraw hanging over the lip points the way. A hard and direct boulder problem to the blind (and tiny) hold over the lip. Difficult moves are followed by a mantle onto the lip hold. A great sequence of bouldering in a super exposed position, only slightly spoilt by the fact that there’s tempting easy ground off L (not in). Hard to grade. 18 V7? Save your rope and clean from the permadraw and leaver-biner. Rebolted December 2013.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2012

54
23 ** Vertigo Sport 30m

Starts 3m R of Pneumothorax in hollowed out cave.

FFA: Jerome Gobel, 2012

55
19 * Vertigo-Pneumo Link Sport 18m

Links the beginning of Vertigo into last bolt of Pneumothorax. Sling a protrusion on the traverse. Not an integral route in it's own right but a linkup of the easiest sections of both routes.

FA: Patrick Simon, Fraser Pocknee, 14th Jun

56
22 ** Pneumothorax Sport 18m, 5

Steep continuous jugging! Stickclip high first bolt in roof. Follow FH's (60cm sling on third bolt) right across jugs, before heading straight up to the anchors on slab.

FFA: Jerome Gobel, 2012

57
25 Tension Pneumothorax Sport 25m

The continuation of Pneumotharax past 3 more bolts through orange bulge to anchors.

FFA: Jerome Gobel, 2013

58

Starts up P for two bolts (use long slings), and climb straight up to U bolt (long sling again). Continue up corner, with a rest gained on the ledge above. Steep black wall above, with some technical moves to chains above lip. Closed project.

59
15 Tim Burton Tunnel Sport 13m

FFA: Alex Coombes, 2010

60
24 *** Birds Of Prey Sport 35m, 16

A very proud line with classy climbing that follows TSSS to the anchors, veers R, then straight up aiming for the beautiful orange headwall and arete at the very top of the cliffs. A few things to note: 1. To climb with minimal drag use extenders for last BR and anchors on TSSS. 2. It’s not possible to lower to ground from final anchors using a 60m rope so clean this climb in two pitches or use a 70m rope. Climb named with respect for the peregrine falcons that nest close by, so as much as this is a great climb, it should only be climbed outside of the falcons nesting season.

FFA: Jerome Gobel, 2012

61
(Jerome's Project) Sport Project

BoP LH finish.

62

“Despite appearances all the holds are bomber... I challenge you to pull anything off!” - J. Make him a wager. Enjoyable climbing on big, nicely moulded holds.

FFA: Jerome, 2011

63
23 ** Skeleton Coast Sport 17m

R of the manky steep crack. Excellent climbing with a few hard sections. Joins TSSS at its last bolt.

FFA: Jerome, 2011

64

R hand route in cave (L of manky crack). Very poor rock

FFA: Daniel Farquhar, 2011

65
25 Quiet Rage Sport 15m

Starts a couple of metres to the left of SLAM. Juggy for the first 3 bolts. High clip in the roof, and a great sequence of bouldering leading out left onto big 'ledge feature. Work your way up and right on jugs to a pumpy finish in black crack/corner. High anchor over the top.

Set by Glen Foley, 2011

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2014

66
26 ** Screaming Rage. Sport 10m, 5

Climb QR to fourth bolt, and instead of heading right along the big feature, go straight up through the roof and overlap. Pumpy moves lead to a hard throw to hidden finishing jug.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2014

67

Up QR for two bolts, then L through bulge.

FFA: Glen Foley, 2011

68
26 Struggle Snuggle Sport 13m

Super bouldery crux. no Kneebars here...

FFA: Nate Foster, 2011

69
26 ** Getting Buck (Right) Sport 15m, 9

An alternate finish to to the Getting Buck link-up, fnishing up QR instead of SR.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2014

70
27 ** Getting Buck Sport 15m, 9

Link up. Begin up A to the 4th bolt, then follow the steep underbelly across SS and GASS (3rd clip of each) to finish up last 2-3 bolts of SR. If instead you keep going R and finish up QR (black corner) it's Getting Buck (Right) at low-end 26.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2014

71
27 *** Absinthe Sport 14m, 7

Up the steepest part of the cave. Start at the faint 'A' on the wall with low first bolt. A key hold broke when this was 26, changing the sequence and making it much more bouldery and sustained. Rob Saunders then re-climbed the route.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

FFA: Rob Saunders, 2014

72
23 yag si moT Sport 14m, 5

Climbs well pity it's rubbish rock. Needs a good day of cleaning and sorting out of the clusterfuck of bolts.

FFA: Glen Foley, 2011

73
18 Hangover Overhang Sport 10m

Runout after second bolt, but still quite fun.

FFA: Jeff MC

74

Small wall to a burly little roof and mantle. Quite fun as a warm up, and an enjoyable miniature piece of climbing.

FFA: Jerome Gobel

Sunset buttress

This diminutive buttress of excellent rock is located five minutes walk from the cave. Follow the cairns along the cliff base. Good for morning warmups, this crag glows golden in the afternoon sun. A few quality short routes abide so far.

75
19 Leo's Slab Sport 10m

R side route on Sunset Buttress. Beautiful rock.

FFA: John DWTL Davies, 2012

76
21 Goanna Balm Sport 14m

Begins from ground level. Cruxy and heartbreaking to the chains!

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2012

77
19 Tiger Balm Sport 12m

Begins on ledge, Face L side of runnel. Good climbing on excellent rock. Several grades harder if you're under 5'4".

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012

78

Technical and sustained with multiple cruxes. Stay true to the line, particularly above bolts 4 and 5- where committing moves to thank-god jugs keep you honest.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012

79
V0 The Slug Method Boulder 3m

On large trailside boulder found when walking from the frontside carpark. Standing start, up on small holds and over the lip

FA: 2013

80
V1 Millipede Boulder 7m

Sit Start at SSS, and traverse right coming to good foot holds and up next to the step on the track

FA: Michael Jansen, 2013

81
V0 Silly Sandshoe Man Boulder 3m

2m left of TSM. Sitting start beneath small cave, up right sidepulls to mantle.

FA: 2013

82
V1 Wizard Motor Boulder 3m

1m left of SSM. Sitting start, lunging moves to mantle

FA: ?

83
V2 Crustacean Cross Boulder 5m

standing start on furthest left with hand matched on level slab. Traverse right along top section to top out at SSM.

FA: 2013

84
V0 Mantis Mantle Boulder 2m

Standing start at flat slab go straight up and top out.

FA: 2013

85
V0 Cardiac Arete Boulder 2m

Standing start on right hand arete top out above

FA: 2013

86
V1 Slinky Boulder 4m

Start on obvious side pull to right of boulder, stretchy moves to solid holds and top out

FA: 2013

87
V2 * Breath Taker Boulder 4m

Standing start on obvious righthand side pull. Traverse slightly left across flat wall and top out in centre of boulder.

FA: 2013

88
V0 Umbilical Cord Boulder 3m

Standing start, straight up to top out

FA: 2013

89
V1 Bushy Hair Boulder 3m

V1 for tall people. V3 for short people. Start on 2 finger crimp for left hand hop up to balancy feet through crimps on face to top out.

FA: 2013

90
V2 Avoid the hulk Boulder 3m

same start as Hulk heading straight up avoiding big green jug, top out on crimpers.

FA: 2013

91
V1 Hulk Boulder 3m

start on two crimps head up slightly to the left using green jug, top out.

FA: 2013

92
V0 Easy way out Boulder 2m

Left of boulder, mantle up to finish

FA: 2013

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