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Technical vertical faces, pumpy overhangs, stamina routes, boulder problems in the sky, steep cave climbing, this crag has it all. Great summer climbing with brilliant views from the seaside walls


Sportclimbing at Mt Ninderry began in 2010 with the now-classic Nitroglycerin. Prior to this occasional parties ventured up the odd trad route, though this activity went largely unrecorded. Many of the new climbs are true sportroutes while others are ''adventure sport'' with varying rock quality and trickier routefinding. A handful of long slings are handy and a 60m rope will suffice for most routes.

Access issues

Mt Ninderry is an access sensitive area. Please car pool to minimise parking problems. Recent change of access. Please NO LONGER access Mt Ninderry from Tinarra Close (the War Memorial access). Use Ocean Vista Drive (yes, the access used in previous years) using the same gate and tracks as in the past, as the land is now under Sunshine Coast Council ownership as part of the Mt. Ninderry reserve. Park in front of the vacant block on the mountain side of the road only and spread cars out as much as possible. Don’t use the carparks in the turning circle. As always when climbing at Ninderry or anywhere, be respectful and low key. In particular, use quiet voices on arrival and on the walk-ins - noise travels. It is a residential neighbourhood, so we want to be good stewards of climbing in the area. The 20 min walk brings you out near Enter the Ninja arête.


Approach from Ocean Vista Drive cul-de-sac. Head up the track with the locked gate (locked for vehicles - foot traffic O.K). Follow this track for roughly 15-20mins gently uphill through some long grass and under the canopy of the trees. Stay on the main, worn walking track until you reach the cliffs, you should be at the Enter the Ninja arete.


Wear a helmet, use a stick clip, be safe and tread lightly and quietly. Be careful of the grass trees and orchids. Don't impinge upon potential trad routes with new bolts. Respect tagged projects and the individuality of existing lines. And please dispose of human waste properly!


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Grade Route

Isolated wall high up on the Eastern face. Accessed by rapping in from below the summit or climbing in from The Octopuses Garden.

Top route in the access gully.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2016

Lower steep route in the access gully. Belay bolt on ledge.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2016

The flake feature on the the left hand end of the steep wall. Fun and sustained climbing.

FFA: Bernie Walsh, 2016

Diagonal crack to arete. Hard start requiring an attentive belay past the first 3 bolts, leading to the steep arete.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2016

R most route on the wall. Semi-hanging belay on ledge. Punchy boulder problem start. Tricky all the way to the chains.

Set by Kenny Walker

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2016

A mini adventure route up the corner on the far right of the terrace. Easiest to access by fixing a line to the right end of the fixed rope and lowering to an anchor on the edge. Climbing gingerly right below the loose stuff and up the wall, following the corner and then the arete.

FFA: Bernie Walsh & Susy G, 2017

Turn right 10m past the big boulder on the approach and walk around the eastern side of the mount for about 200m. Shorter routes than other sectors, but a few absolute corkers. Also has a great trad wall (not yet in guide) for those fond of wiggly shit.

Access route for The Eastern Seaboard.


Great featured climbing up the scoop, then leftwards to the last bolt and anchors. Mind the tree.

Up left side of cave to shared anchors.

Straight through the guts of the cave on big "Ninderry-solid" features. Excellent moderate roof climbing, despite the dirty start up the ledges.

First 2 bolts of Water Line then bust out left and up.

FFA: ross ferguson, 2017

Fun, pumpy, punchy climbing on great rock up the short steep wall.

Last line before the wall rounds the bend. Quality micro-route. Easy start, hard boulder problem direct through the shield, pumpy little finish.

Set by & kenny walker

FFA: & kenny walker

Start off the terrace above the previous routes. Short and intense. Heel, toe, gut busting core. Turn the lip to the anchors (double bolts) however back cleaning required.

Set by

FFA: & kenny walker, 2017

The arete as the track rounds the bend. Gets a bit dirty up high

FA: glen ferguson

Face right of arete. Shares last bolt and anchors with Bruce.

FA: glen ferguson

10min walk east of Sayonara Bitches along the cliff base, facing east. Stick clip first bolt. Start in centre left of cave and follow the obvious rib through the overhang onto the slightly hung headwall.

FFA: Michael Jansen, 2013

FFA: Brenton Owens, 2013

Start 2m right of BSB, Superman start into the roof following obvious line to headwall. Joining BSB at its 4th bolt.

FFA: Michael Jansen, 2013

Area of buttresses with the proud arête of Enter the Ninja in the middle. The current access trail from Ocean Vista Drive brings you here.

Starts uphill from ETN and climbs the wild scooped out overhang up high. Bit of a ramble, however, the top 6 metres is the steepest 20 you'll ever climb!

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012

Hidden cave gem! Up PPP then veer R and downclimb behind PPP pillar. Ascends back wall trending L. Tree belay on ledge, then walk off and rap down ETN.

FFA: Jerome, 2010

A hard crux through the roof, especially for the vertically challenged, followed by fun cranking over a bucket or two, to an exciting topout.

FFA: Jerome, 2010

Starts two metres left of TPPP in corner crack. Climbs easily up crack till prow is reached at second bolt (optional small cam beneath second bolt). Tough move through prow and sustained climbing follows, which trends slightly left the whole way. Lower off just before ledge.

FFA: Matt Schimke & Terry Forbes, 2012

Natural corner system between Swordsman and Neo Nasi Goreng. Bit of a doddle until the pleasurable body jamming at the end.

FFA: Patrick, 2016

FA: Patrick, 2016

Bouldery start (don't use tree, yes sensei!) a few metres to the right of ETN. Move left at second bolt onto face with some thin climbing before encountering a steep top with chain just below lip.

FA: Matt Schimke & Terry Forbes, 2013

Arete RHS; Begin up crack or face to high first bolt near arete. Engaging climbing for the confident leader. Now with anchors for lower-off.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2010

Other side of arete from ETN. Use long runner on first bolt of ETN then L around arête to high FH on face. Jugs and crimps to the break. A move L on edges sets you up to attack the face. Sustained crimping over the bulge leads back to the arête and a welcome FH. Up arete to break, final bolt (long runner) and anchors of ETN.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2010

Climb the (somewhat green!) crack and flake L of enter the ninja, with some interference from the tree. Head L on the ledge and up the crack dissecting the bulging buttress. Take care with the chockstones and blocks up high to topout on ledge w/ anchors.

FA: Unknown

FFA: Patrick Simon, 2010

Face and rooflet between unclimbed wide crack and SA. Climb pitch1 of FitS then R to belay. Thin edges, a bouldery section, then quest to glory with exciting, but moderate, climbing through the exposed overhang.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2013

This is a quality crack climb with solid exposure, committing moves and an off-width crack to finish. Take a #6 Cam and plenty of extendable draws/slings to minimise drag. Start 2 meters right of FiTS on ground level. Climb up and right to sling the obvious tree and then carefully traversing left again to the base of the obvious crack line. (This first section is a bit dangerous, so you may want to start at this ledge instead of the ground.) Follow the crack and choose the left-hand line at the fork, power up the off-width to the top. Belay from the tree or further back. Descend from any of the chains around the top of Katana.

10BR to anchors (+1 optional belay bolt on ledge). Moderate ledge-y stuff on P1 then sweeeet clean face above. Belay on ledge a good idea (grade 18, 5BR to there) but reasonable as a single pitch with a few long runners in the first half and an attentive belay. From the ledge, get your crimp action on. A thin bouldery section is followed by excellent edging up an immaculate steep wall to anchors.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012

Delicately ascend through the large easy vegetated gully. Use long slings to reduce drag for 2nd half or break the whole climb into 2 pitches. Traverse right at the easy ground for 4 meters to the obvious crack. Plug in your gear and enjoy pro until about 3 meters from the top where you break left to easier ground. Tree belay. Easy walk to Katana. Very loose large stuff at top-out.

FA: Unknown

FFA: Patrick Simon & Jonathon Kilchester, 2011

Face and arete L of ER crack. Accessed from P1 of FitS. 5BR to anchors. Diagonalling left, this diminutive route packs a whallup. Committing blind moves down low, tricky all the way to the anchors. Mind the tree.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2013

The following routes exist on the large south facing Ocean Vista Wall. Routes are listed R to L. This wall is in shade from about 10:30am in summer and all day in winter. Follow the steps up gully to access the sector.

The furthest R route on this sector. Climb wall to ledge. Power out R side of cave, over cruxy bulge, and up headwall above. Long runners handy in cave.

FFA: Jerome, 2011

Middle line out of cave. If lead in one pitch, anchor in and pull the rope through the first 4 draws before proceeding to reduce drag.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

Not bad in it's own right.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

7 bolts to anchors from the cave. Climb as for FC to the cave. This is the L line directly above the anchors. Severe Body-English is necessary to solve the boulder problem out the cave. The climbing eases significantly as the angle relents, though still keeps you punching through the overlap. To minimise drag, safety into the first anchors and pull the rope through before continuing.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012

9 BR to anchors. Deceptively steep face and blunt arête. Sustained and bouldery, with a difficult and engaging crux. Not for the feint of heart. Stick to the line and no traversing way off into the cave.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

Shares the start with it's twin, then L onto the ledge. Direct up following the vertical seam through the crimpy face. Maybe a tad contrived but does not climb the easy stuff out L. Trend R above hard section to join the top of DDR.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

Straight up the centre of the chimney working your way in and out of a series of scoops. 8 hangers to anchors. More cleaning required, beware of loose holds.

FFA: Neil Jenman, 2017

Set by Neil Jenman, 2017

Black face/arete. Punchy little route with long moves between good holds. May be hard since Neil sent a boulder down from the chimney which smashed the arete key hold to smithereens!!!

FFA: Ben O'Connell, 2010

Good compression boulder problem then glory to the chains!

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2010

Start carefully up arete to big hueco and first bolt. A hard mid section leads to sustained and committing climbing all the way to the chains. Don't mistake the last bolt with the mallion on it for the finish - double bolt anchors at the top.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2010

Named after an angry former inhabitant! Start in the back of the black cave. Burly climbing through cool hanging features. The sustained headwall still packs a bite!

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

Begin with long moves up L side of cave followed by diabolical crux around the arete. Continuous climbing up face with difficulty dramatically easing to anchors of NT.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2012

First two bolts of Kill Bill to its third FH (but don't clip it) before traversing R into Funnel Web at its third FH and finishing up this.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2012

The following three routes are located on a small lower tier of rock under the main cliff. To access, fix a rope to the bolt at the top of the gully, just beneath the start of Funnel Web, and abseil down.

On the little wall down gully below FW. Though short, this route has sustained technical climbing with a diabolical crux. Gets lichen.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

L of STL. Tough crux, but fall-offable all the way!

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

L of CKKC. Good little route with a few difficult sections and an excellent warmup for the harder stuff around here.

FFA: Dan Mackenzie & Tom Gallagher, 2012

Now back up to Ocean Vista Wall above...

On Ocean Vista Wall. Clip first bolt from large boulder and pull onto the crux start. Pocketed face above to lower off. Classic.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2010

Dappled face veering R to 5th bolt, then into cave. Don't finish here! Use long sling then up and R onto the giant fang (bolt on tip!) to anchors on the headwall. Very exciting!

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2010

SK into cave, then L line of bolts out cave to very top of wall. Exposed exciting finish!

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012

Face and blunt arete just L of manky crack. Joins COYS in cave.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2010

Stickclip recommended. Use long draw in cave. Beware loose rock in top section but it doesn't detract from the experience.

FFA: Jerome, 2010


FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012

On the main wall, climbs the L side of cave and wall above. Sharp rock at the start leads to a surprisingly fine and exposed headwall.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

The highest, yet shortest routes at Ninderry! Accessed by squeezing behind grass tree and up hallway. For the 2 routes on the pinnacle take a couple of long slings (1mtr +) to lower off anchors on ledge, or rappel instead. NOTE: These routes are closed during the Peregrine Falcon nesting season (August - December).

Dappled face of high pinnacle. Up the face proper not the crack and flake to the R (maybe only grade 18 this way?). If done properly this route is thin, technical and tricky! Use long slings (1.5mtr on anchors which it shares with IaTN) if setting up TR.

Please note: Closed during Peregrine Falcon nesting season (August- December)

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2010

Steep arete on pinnacle. What it lacks in length it makes up for with exposure and pumpiness! Use 1+mtr slings on anchors if lowering or alternatively abseil off to clean.

Please note: Closed during Peregrine Falcon nesting season (August- December)

FFA: Kenny Walker & Luke Sonnenburg, 2010

The next route can be found at ground level at the bottom of the gully and just before moving around to the following two routes. It is located almost directly beneath STL.

One of the better warm ups on the cliff. An isolated route but well worth doing on great rock. 6 UB’s lead up the steep and juggy wall to anchors over the lip.

FA: Matt Schimke

On isolated pillar between 2 areas where the track rounds the southern point of Ninderry. Look for the tiny cave with bolts above it. Hard bouldery start followed by a few intersting sections. Use long runner on 3rd. Air-y climbing up arete to chains out L.

FFA: John 'Deadly with the Ladies' Davies, 2011

Variant finish to DWA. At the roof hand traverse R along the lip then crank for the top. Powerful moves and a tricky mantle. Wildly exposed fun climbing which deserves to be more popular.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

This area is a ten minute walk from the Ocean Vista Wall around the SW side of the mountain. Winter sports virtually all-day shade while in summer some routes see afternoon sun. Due to the complex architecture, a diverse style of routes can be found, though steep is generally the rule. Peregrines stifle climbing and development here between July and Dec. Hungry mozzies also like to hang around depending on conditions so bring some spray!

R side of Nitro Wall. Begin under bulge. Use some longer runners in first half. Above 5th bolt climb direct up cracked face and avoid the choosy scramble up the pillar out L (subtract a grade this way). Keeps punching all the way to the chains!

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012

Easy to begin then steep white wall to black headwall. Traverse L at the obvious slopey break, then up past last bolt to enjoy engaging moves to chains.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

Really cool low dyno (unless you're Long-arms Schimke), then a baffling upper crux which can be solved with some knee-trickery. Hard to grade as the sequence is short, but hard/bizarre. It goes without saying the chalked holds out right on Harvey Wallbanger are not in. 7 ringbolts to anchors. Rebolted December 2013.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2012

Already a classic.

FA: Jerome, 1992

FFA: Jerome, 2011

First 5 bolts of SNP, then logically R into the business section of Nitro. Hard crimpy V5 boulder problem into grade 24 climbing.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012

Easy past a few bolts, then hard resistance climbing with minging crimps and wide spans. At the 5th bolt move naturally R into Nitro for a few moves then back L to the 6th. The route sticks to the face so the back wall is off limits until you're at the chains.

Set by Kenny Walker

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2015

Very limestone-esque climbing up face and corner L of flying buttress.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2011

Fun steep monkeying on amazingly solid funk! Committing and rewarding. Start on chossy shelf a metre to the left of TOAGSW on U bolts. Move left a move at fourth bolt, and make sure you don't miss the fifth bolt, which is hiding above one of the rooflets.

FA: Matt Schimke & Terry Forbes

Starts on higher terrace just right of Slab past three bolts under roof. Monkey out and through on huge holds. Take the left side of the arête past a harder move, then slab headwall.

FA: Lee, Sam Cujes & John O'Brien, 2013

Slab to headwall to exposed step-around to techy corner. A bit of everything! If you're up for the adventure it's not to be missed.

FFA: Jerome, 2011

Easy to find; it’s the biggest roof on the mountain. Much less intimidating than it looks from below. Start 6m L of at the tree. Prepare yourself for some adventure-sport climbing! Take the time to get the rigging right for this one or you won’t be able to clip the anchor due to drag. Doable with a single rope if you use LOTS of long slings. Easy ramble to the roof. Punch the juggy roof, turn the lip and if you’ve done everything right you’ll be able to pull rope for the anchor clip Impossible to clean from the anchor, so back-jump the roof and lower-off. Rebolted Dec 2013.

FFA: Lee Cujes, Sam Cujes & JJ O'Brien, 2012

3m L of NA. Up runout, easy jugs for three ringbolts (long slings). Pull L into steep runnel and thug up to the base of 50 degree overhung headwall (grade 18 to here). The permadraw hanging over the lip points the way. A hard and direct boulder problem to the blind (and tiny) hold over the lip. Difficult moves are followed by a mantle onto the lip hold. A great sequence of bouldering in a super exposed position, only slightly spoilt by the fact that there’s tempting easy ground off L (not in). Hard to grade. 18 V7? Save your rope and clean from the permadraw and leaver-biner. Rebolted December 2013.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2012

Starts 3m R of Pneumothorax in hollowed out cave.

FFA: Jerome Gobel, 2012

Links the beginning of Vertigo into last bolt of Pneumothorax. Sling a protrusion on the traverse. Not an integral route in it's own right but a linkup of the easiest sections of both routes.

FA: Patrick Simon & Fraser Pocknee, 2014

Steep continuous jugging! Stickclip high first bolt in roof. Follow FH's (60cm sling on third bolt) right across jugs, before heading straight up to the anchors on slab.

FFA: Jerome Gobel, 2012

The continuation of Pneumotharax past 3 more bolts through orange bulge to anchors. You can also access this by climbing TT to its third last bolt and heading right into this climb at the ledge (rope probably runs better this way).

FFA: Jerome Gobel, 2013

Starts up P for two bolts (use long slings), and climb straight up to U bolt (long sling again). Continue up 3D corner to small ledge above on the right. Make a move back left and tackle the steep black corner (avoid moving way out right at last bolt into no mans land) to chains over the lip.

FA: Matt Schimke, 2014

FFA: Alex Coombes, 2010

A very proud line with classy climbing that follows TSSS to the anchors, veers R, then straight up aiming for the beautiful orange headwall and arete at the very top of the cliffs. Veer R up the final arete, ignore the distracting bolts just to the left. A few things to note: 1. To climb with minimal drag backclean the first bolt, use extenders for last BR and anchors on TSSS (or clip the last bolt on Tim Burton Tunnel and backclean the TSSS anchor). 2. It’s not possible to lower to ground from final anchors using a 60m rope so clean this climb in two pitches or use a 70m rope. Climb named with respect for the peregrine falcons that nest close by, so as much as this is a great climb, it should only be climbed outside of the falcons nesting season.

FFA: Jerome Gobel, 2012

BoP LH finish.

“Despite appearances all the holds are bomber... I challenge you to pull anything off!” - J. Make him a wager. Enjoyable climbing on big, nicely moulded holds.

FFA: Jerome, 2011

R of the manky steep crack. Excellent climbing with a few hard sections. Joins TSSS at its last bolt. 23 if climbed the original method of moving right through steep fingery crux.

FFA: Jerome, 2011

R hand route in cave (L of manky crack). Very poor rock

FFA: Daniel Farquhar, 2011

Starts a couple of metres to the left of SLAM. Juggy for the first 3 bolts. High clip in the roof, and a great sequence of bouldering leading out left onto big 'ledge feature. Work your way up and right on jugs to a pumpy finish in black crack/corner. High anchor over the top.

Set by Glen Foley, 2011

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2014

Climb QR to fourth bolt, and instead of heading right along the big feature, go straight up through the roof and overlap. Pumpy moves lead to a hard throw to hidden finishing jug. Better and more sustained than QR.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2014

Up QR for two bolts, then L through bulge.

FFA: Glen Foley, 2011

Starts just right of A. Easy for a few bolts (a little chossy, be careful), then a sustained section of bouldering leading to a pumper finish. Probably the best rock in the cave.

FFA: Nate Foster, 2011

An alternate finish to to the Getting Buck link-up, fnishing up QR instead of SR.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2014

Link up. Begin up A to the 4th bolt, then follow the steep underbelly across SS and GASS (3rd clip of each) to finish up last 2-3 bolts of SR. If instead you keep going R and finish up QR (black corner) it's Getting Buck (Right) at low-end 26.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2014

Up the steepest part of the cave. Start at the faint 'A' on the wall with low first bolt.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

FFA: Rob Saunders, 2014

Climbs well pity it's rubbish rock. Needs a good day of cleaning and sorting out of the clusterfuck of bolts.

FFA: Glen Foley, 2011

Runout after second bolt, but still quite fun. Shares anchors and last bolt with Have another Home Brew

FFA: Jeff MC

Small wall to a burly little roof and mantle. Quite fun as a warm up, and an enjoyable miniature piece of climbing. 4 FHs to chains

FFA: Jerome Gobel

This diminutive buttress of excellent rock is located five minutes walk from the cave. Follow the cairns along the cliff base. Good for morning warmups or winter days, this crag glows golden in the afternoon sun. A few quality short routes abide so far, with potential for a few more yet.

R side route on Sunset Buttress. Beautiful rock.

FFA: John DWTL Davies, 2012

Begins from ground level. Cruxy and heartbreaking to the chains!

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2012

Begins on ledge, Face L side of runnel. Good climbing on excellent rock. Harder if you're short.

Set by

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012

Technical and sustained with multiple cruxes. Stay true to the line, particularly above bolts 4 and 5, where committing moves to thank-god jugs keep you honest.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012

On large trailside boulder found when walking from the frontside carpark. Standing start, up on small holds and over the lip

FA: 2013

Sit Start at SSS, and traverse right coming to good foot holds and up next to the step on the track

FA: Michael Jansen, 2013

2m left of TSM. Sitting start beneath small cave, up right sidepulls to mantle.

FA: 2013

1m left of SSM. Sitting start, lunging moves to mantle

FA: ?

Standing start on furthest left with hand matched on level slab. Traverse right along top section to top out at SSM.

FA: 2013

Standing start at flat slab go straight up and top out.

FA: 2013

Standing start on right hand arete top out above.

FA: 2013

Start on obvious side pull to right of boulder, stretchy moves to solid holds and top out.

FA: 2013

Standing start on obvious righthand side pull. Traverse slightly left across flat wall and top out in centre of boulder.

FA: 2013

Standing start, straight up to top out.

FA: 2013

V1 for tall people. V3 for short people. Start on 2 finger crimp for left hand hop up to balancy feet through crimps on face to top out.

FA: 2013

Same start as Hulk heading straight up avoiding big green jug, top out on crimpers.

FA: 2013

Start on two crimps head up slightly to the left using green jug, top out.

FA: 2013

Left of boulder, mantle up to finish

FA: 2013


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