Mt Ninderry Mostly sport climbing92 routes in crag
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Technical vertical faces, pumpy overhangs, stamina routes, boulder problems in the sky, steep cave climbing, this crag has it all. Great summer climbing with brilliant views from the seaside walls
Sportclimbing at Mt Ninderry began in 2010 with the now-classic Nitroglycerin. Prior to this occasional parties ventured up the odd trad route, though this activity went largely unrecorded. Many of the new climbs are true sportroutes while others are ''adventure sport'' with varying rock quality and trickier routefinding. A handful of long slings are handy and a 60m rope will suffice for most routes.
Mt Ninderry is an access sensitive area. Please car pool to minimise parking problems. No access via Ninderry Rise Estate. Access is now from Yandina-Coolum Rd - take Barcrest Drive to the end, turn L onto Tinarra Close and follow to the cul-de-sac. Park in front of the war memorial gardens. Do not park on the grass and no overnight parking - complaints have been made to the council. At the top of the gardens you'll find a couple of old seats beneath mango trees. There's a cairn behind them and a trail leading up through long grass. Easy 15-20mins walk and you arrive near the Deadly When Aroused pillar. Turn L to Nitro/caves area and R to seaside walls.
Wear a helmet, use a stick clip, be safe and tread lightly and quietly. Be careful of the grass trees and orchids. Don't impinge upon potential trad routes with new bolts. Respect tagged projects and the individuality of existing lines. And please dispose of human waste properly!
On large trailside boulder found when walking from the frontside carpark. Standing start, up on small holds and over the lip
Sit Start at SSS, and traverse right coming to good foot holds and up next to the step on the track
FA: Michael Jansen, 2013
2m left of TSM. Sitting start beneath small cave, up right sidepulls to mantle.
standing start on furthest left with hand matched on level slab. Traverse right along top section to top out at SSM.
Standing start at flat slab go straight up and top out.
Standing start on right hand arete top out above
Start on obvious side pull to right of boulder, stretchy moves to solid holds and top out
Standing start on obvious righthand side pull. Traverse slightly left across flat wall and top out in centre of boulder.
Standing start, straight up to top out