Logbook
Help

Ocean Vista Area

Description

Includes large south facing Ocean Vista Wall, Lower tier and Past lower Tier. Routes are listed R to L. This wall is in shade from about 10:30am in summer and all day in winter.

Access issues inherited from Mt Ninderry

Mt Ninderry is an access sensitive area. Please car pool to minimise parking problems. Recent change of access. Please NO LONGER access Mt Ninderry from Tinarra Close (the War Memorial access). Use Ocean Vista Drive (yes, the access used in previous years) using the same gate and tracks as in the past, as the land is now under Sunshine Coast Council ownership as part of the Mt. Ninderry reserve. Use the turning circle at the end of the road and park up on the grass verge on the mountain side of the road only, spread cars out as much as possible. Don’t use the carparks in the turning circle. As always when climbing at Ninderry or anywhere, be respectful and low key. In particular, use quiet voices on arrival and on the walk-ins - noise travels. It is a residential neighbourhood, so we want to be good stewards of climbing in the area. The 20 min walk brings you out near Enter the Ninja arête.

Approach

Take the path left just past the large boulder on the main access track. Follow the steps up gully to access the main wall.

Ethic inherited from Mt Ninderry

Wear a helmet, use a stick clip, be safe and tread lightly and quietly. Be careful of the grass trees and orchids. Don't impinge upon potential trad routes with new bolts. Respect tagged projects and the individuality of existing lines. And please dispose of human waste properly!

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

The following routes exist on the large south facing Ocean Vista Wall. Routes are listed R to L. This wall is in shade from about 10:30am in summer and all day in winter. Follow the steps up gully to access the sector.

The furthest R route on this sector. Climb wall to ledge. Power out R side of cave, over cruxy bulge, and up headwall above. Long runners handy in cave.

FFA: Jerome, Apr 2011

Middle line out of cave. If lead in one pitch, anchor in and pull the rope through the first 4 draws before proceeding to reduce drag.

FFA: Kenny Walker, Aug 2011

Not bad in it's own right.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

7 bolts to anchors from the cave. Climb as for FC to the cave. This is the L line directly above the anchors. Severe Body-English is necessary to solve the boulder problem out the cave. The climbing eases significantly as the angle relents, though still keeps you punching through the overlap. To minimise drag, safety into the first anchors and pull the rope through before continuing.

FFA: Kenny Walker, Jan 2012

9 BR to anchors. Deceptively steep face and blunt arête. Pumpy. Not for the feint of heart with a little funky rock and an engaging crux. Stick to the line and no traversing way off R into the cave.

FFA: Kenny Walker, Apr 2011

Shares the start with it's twin, then L onto the ledge. Direct up following the vertical seam through the crimpy face. Maybe a tad contrived but does not climb the easy stuff out L. Trend R above hard section to join the top of DDR.

FFA: Kenny Walker, Jul 2011

Straight up the centre of the chimney working your way in and out of a series of scoops. 9 hangers to anchors. Chossy start but gets better.

FFA: Neil Jenman, 8 Oct 2017

Set by Neil Jenman, 21 Oct 2017

Black face/arete. Punchy little route with long moves between good holds.

FFA: Ben O'Connell, Dec 2010

Good compression boulder problem then glory to the chains!

FFA: Kenny Walker, Nov 2010

Start carefully up arete to big hueco and first bolt. A hard mid section leads to sustained and committing climbing all the way to the chains. Don't mistake the last bolt with the mallion on it for the finish - double bolt anchors at the top.

FFA: Kenny Walker, Jun 2010

Named after an angry former inhabitant! Start in the back of the black cave. Burly climbing through cool hanging features. The sustained headwall still packs a bite!

FFA: Kenny Walker, Mar 2011

Begin with long moves up L side of cave followed by diabolical crux around the arete. Continuous climbing up face with difficulty dramatically easing to anchors of NT.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 12 Jan 2012

First two bolts of Kill Bill to its third FH (but don't clip it) before traversing R into Funnel Web at its third FH and finishing up this.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 21 Jan 2012

The following three routes are located on a small lower tier of rock under the main cliff. To access, fix a rope to the bolt at the top of the gully, just beneath the start of Funnel Web, and abseil down.

On the little wall down gully below FW. Though short, this route has sustained technical climbing with a diabolical crux. Gets lichen.

FFA: Kenny Walker, Nov 2011

L of STL. Tough crux, but fall-offable all the way!

FFA: Kenny Walker, Nov 2011

L of CKKC. Good little route with a few difficult sections and an excellent warmup for the harder stuff around here.

FFA: Dan Mackenzie & Tom Gallagher, Apr 2012

Clip first bolt from the narrow ledge and pull onto the hard start. Pumpy pocketed face. Avoid traversing R for a giant rest on the jug of KB and add a grade and a star. Classic.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, Jun 2010

Dappled face veering R to 5th bolt, then into cave. Don't finish here! Use long sling then up and R onto the giant fang (bolt on tip!) to anchors on the headwall. Very exciting!

FFA: Kenny Walker, Jun 2010

SK into cave, then L line of bolts out cave to very top of wall. Exposed exciting finish!

FFA: Kenny Walker, Aug 2012

Face and blunt arete just L of manky crack. Joins COYS in cave.

FFA: Kenny Walker, Sep 2010

Stickclip recommended. Use long draw in cave. Beware loose rock in top section but it doesn't detract from the experience.

FFA: Jerome, Aug 2010

Linkup COYS-FPPEHT-SK

FFA: Kenny Walker, Jan 2012

On the main wall, climbs the L side of cave and wall above. Sharp rock at the start leads to a surprisingly fine and exposed headwall.

FFA: Kenny Walker, Aug 2011

The far left of Ocean Vista Wall. The highest, yet shortest routes at Ninderry. Accessed by squeezing behind grass tree and up hallway. For the 2 routes on the pinnacle take a couple of long slings (1mtr +) to lower off anchors on ledge, or rappel instead. NOTE: These routes are closed during the Peregrine Falcon nesting season (August - December).

Dappled face of high pinnacle. Climbs the face R of the arete not the flake way off to the R (maybe only grade 18 this way?). This route is thin, technical and tricky and was a complete sandbag when it was originally 19! Shares anchors with IaTN so requires long 1.5m slings to lower off.

Please note: Closed during Peregrine Falcon nesting season (August- December)

FFA: Kenny Walker, Nov 2010

Steep arete on pinnacle. What it lacks in length it makes up for with exposure and pumpiness! Use 1+mtr slings on anchors if lowering or alternatively abseil off to clean.

Please note: Closed during Peregrine Falcon nesting season (August- December)

FFA: Kenny Walker & Luke Sonnenburg, Aug 2010

A completely different area from the previous 2 routes... the next route is located under Ocean Vista Wall on it's own little pillar.

One of the better warm ups on the cliff. An isolated route but well worth doing on great rock. 6 UB’s lead up the steep and juggy wall to anchors over the lip.

FA: Matt Schimke

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Photos Browse all photos

Upload a photo of area

Activity

Check out what is happening in Ocean Vista Area.