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Description

Winter sports virtually all-day shade while in summer some routes see afternoon sun. Due to the complex architecture, a diverse style of routes can be found, though steep is generally the rule. Peregrines stifle climbing and development here between July and Dec. Hungry mozzies also like to hang around depending on conditions so bring some spray! Routes read L to R.

Access issues inherited from Mt Ninderry

Mt Ninderry is an access sensitive area. Please car pool to minimise parking problems. Recent change of access. Please NO LONGER access Mt Ninderry from Tinarra Close (the War Memorial access). Use Ocean Vista Drive (yes, the access used in previous years) using the same gate and tracks as in the past, as the land is now under Sunshine Coast Council ownership as part of the Mt. Ninderry reserve. Use the turning circle at the end of the road and park up on the grass verge on the mountain side of the road only, spread cars out as much as possible. Don’t use the carparks in the turning circle. As always when climbing at Ninderry or anywhere, be respectful and low key. In particular, use quiet voices on arrival and on the walk-ins - noise travels. It is a residential neighbourhood, so we want to be good stewards of climbing in the area. The 20 min walk brings you out near Enter the Ninja arête.

Approach

Ten minute walk from the Ocean Vista Wall around the SW side of the mountain.

Ethic inherited from Mt Ninderry

Wear a helmet, use a stick clip, be safe and tread lightly and quietly. Be careful of the grass trees and orchids. Don't impinge upon potential trad routes with new bolts. Respect tagged projects and the individuality of existing lines. And please dispose of human waste properly!

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Small wall to a burly little roof and mantle. Quite fun as a warm up, and an enjoyable miniature piece of climbing. 4 FHs to chains

FFA: Jerome Gobel

Runout after second bolt, but still quite fun. Shares anchors and last bolt with Have another Home Brew

FFA: Jeff MC

Climbs well pity it's rubbish rock. Needs a good day of cleaning and sorting out of the clusterfuck of bolts.

FFA: Glen Foley, 2011

Up the steepest part of the cave. Start at the faint 'A' on the wall with low first bolt.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

FFA: Rob Saunders, 2014

Link up. Begin up A to the 4th bolt, then follow the steep underbelly across SS and GASS (3rd clip of each) to finish up last 2-3 bolts of SR. If instead you keep going R and finish up QR (black corner) it's Getting Buck (Right) at low-end 26.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2014

An alternate finish to to the Getting Buck link-up, fnishing up QR instead of SR.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2014

Starts just right of A. Easy for a few bolts (a little chossy, be careful), then a sustained section of bouldering leading to a pumper finish. Probably the best rock in the cave.

FFA: Nate Foster, 2011

Up QR for two bolts, then L through bulge.

FFA: Glen Foley, 2011

Climb QR to fourth bolt, and instead of heading right along the big feature, go straight up through the roof and overlap. Pumpy moves lead to a hard throw to hidden finishing jug. Better and more sustained than QR.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2014

Starts a couple of metres to the left of SLAM. Juggy for the first 3 bolts. High clip in the roof, and a great sequence of bouldering leading out left onto big 'ledge feature. Work your way up and right on jugs to a pumpy finish in black crack/corner. High anchor over the top.

Set by Glen Foley, 2011

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2014

R hand route in cave (L of manky crack). Very poor rock

FFA: Daniel Farquhar, 2011

R of the manky steep crack. Excellent climbing with a few hard sections. Joins TSSS at its last bolt. 23 if climbed the original method of moving right through steep fingery crux.

FFA: Jerome, 2011

“Despite appearances all the holds are bomber... I challenge you to pull anything off!” - J. Make him a wager. Enjoyable climbing on big, nicely moulded holds.

FFA: Jerome, 2011

BoP LH finish.

A very proud line with classy climbing that follows TSSS to the anchors, veers R, then straight up aiming for the beautiful orange headwall and arete at the very top of the cliffs. Veer R up the final arete, ignore the distracting bolts just to the left. A few things to note: 1. To climb with minimal drag backclean the first bolt, use extenders for last BR and anchors on TSSS (or clip the last bolt on Tim Burton Tunnel and backclean the TSSS anchor). 2. It’s not possible to lower to ground from final anchors using a 60m rope so clean this climb in two pitches or use a 70m rope. Climb named with respect for the peregrine falcons that nest close by, so as much as this is a great climb, it should only be climbed outside of the falcons nesting season.

FFA: Jerome Gobel, 2012

FFA: Alex Coombes, 2010

Steep continuous jugging! Stickclip high first bolt in roof. Follow FH's (60cm sling on third bolt) right across jugs, before heading straight up to the anchors on slab.

FFA: Jerome Gobel, 2012

The continuation of Pneumotharax past 3 more bolts through orange bulge to anchors. You can also access this by climbing TT to its third last bolt and heading right into this climb at the ledge (rope probably runs better this way).

FFA: Jerome Gobel, 2013

Starts up P for two bolts (use long slings), and climb straight up to U bolt (long sling again). Continue up 3D corner to small ledge above on the right. Make a move back left and tackle the steep black corner (avoid moving way out right at last bolt into no mans land) to chains over the lip.

FA: Matt Schimke, 2014

Links the beginning of Vertigo into last bolt of Pneumothorax. Sling a protrusion on the traverse. Not an integral route in it's own right but a linkup of the easiest sections of both routes.

FA: Patrick Simon & Fraser Pocknee, 2014

Starts 3m R of Pneumothorax in hollowed out cave.

FFA: Jerome Gobel, 2012

3m L of NA. Up runout, easy jugs for three ringbolts (long slings). Pull L into steep runnel and thug up to the base of 50 degree overhung headwall (grade 18 to here). The permadraw hanging over the lip points the way. A hard and direct boulder problem to the blind (and tiny) hold over the lip. Difficult moves are followed by a mantle onto the lip hold. A great sequence of bouldering in a super exposed position, only slightly spoilt by the fact that there’s tempting easy ground off L (not in). Hard to grade. 18 V7? Save your rope and clean from the permadraw and leaver-biner. Rebolted December 2013.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2012

Easy to find; it’s the biggest roof on the mountain. Much less intimidating than it looks from below. Start 6m L of Dontworry.com at the tree. Prepare yourself for some adventure-sport climbing! Take the time to get the rigging right for this one or you won’t be able to clip the anchor due to drag. Doable with a single rope if you use LOTS of long slings. Easy ramble to the roof. Punch the juggy roof, turn the lip and if you’ve done everything right you’ll be able to pull rope for the anchor clip Impossible to clean from the anchor, so back-jump the roof and lower-off. Rebolted Dec 2013.

FFA: Lee Cujes, Sam Cujes & JJ O'Brien, 2012

Slab to headwall to exposed step-around to techy corner. A bit of everything! If you're up for the adventure it's not to be missed. Top bolt very loose on anchors. Hand tighten and put your draws next to the bottom bolt until someone can come with a spanner (loctite or lock washer please).

FFA: Jerome, 2011

Starts on higher terrace just right of Dontworry.com. Slab past three bolts under roof. Monkey out and through on huge holds. Take the left side of the arête past a harder move, then slab headwall.

FA: Lee, Sam Cujes & John O'Brien, 2013

Fun steep monkeying on amazingly solid funk! Committing and rewarding. Start on chossy shelf a metre to the left of TOAGSW on U bolts. Move left a move at fourth bolt, and make sure you don't miss the fifth bolt, which is hiding above one of the rooflets.

FA: Matt Schimke & Terry Forbes

Very limestone-esque climbing up face and corner L of flying buttress.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2011

Easy past a few bolts, then hard resistance climbing with minging crimps and wide spans. At the 5th bolt move naturally R into Nitro for a few moves then back L to the 6th. The route sticks to the face so the back wall is off limits until you're at the chains.

Set by Kenny Walker

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2015

Climb SNP to the 6th bolt. From the clipping hold move left directly up into the hard undercling, then up on thin crimps staying left of the bolts to the anchor. (A direct from the 5th bolt is completely do-able yet still awaits).

FA: umberto schena, 2017

First 5 bolts of SNP, then logically R into the business section of Nitro. Hard crimpy V5 boulder problem into grade 24 climbing.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012

Already a classic.

FA: Jerome, 1992

FFA: Jerome, 2011

Really cool low dyno (unless you're Long-arms Schimke), then a baffling upper crux which can be solved with some knee-trickery. Hard to grade as the sequence is short, but hard/bizarre. It goes without saying the chalked holds out right on Harvey Wallbanger are not in. 7 ringbolts to anchors. Rebolted December 2013.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2012

Easy to begin then steep white wall to black headwall. Traverse L at the obvious slopey break, then up past last bolt to enjoy engaging moves to chains.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

R side of Nitro Wall. Begin under bulge. Use some longer runners in first half. Above 5th bolt climb direct up cracked face and avoid the choosy scramble up the pillar out L (subtract a grade this way). Keeps punching all the way to the chains!

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012

These 2 routes can be found in a completely seperate area from the previous routes... On an isolated pillar where the track rounds the southern point of Ninderry between Ocean Vista and The Caves. Look for the tiny cave with bolts above it. Hard bouldery start followed by a few intersting sections. Use long runner on 3rd. Air-y climbing up arete to chains out L.

FFA: John 'Deadly with the Ladies' Davies, 2011

Variant finish to DWA. At the roof hand traverse R along the lip then crank for the top. Powerful moves and a tricky mantle. Wildly exposed fun climbing which deserves to be more popular.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011

Activity

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