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Description

Area of buttresses with the proud arête of Enter the Ninja in the middle.

Access issues inherited from Mt Ninderry

Mt Ninderry is an access sensitive area. Please car pool to minimise parking problems. Recent change of access. Please NO LONGER access Mt Ninderry from Tinarra Close (the War Memorial access). Use Ocean Vista Drive (yes, the access used in previous years) using the same gate and tracks as in the past, as the land is now under Sunshine Coast Council ownership as part of the Mt. Ninderry reserve. Use the turning circle at the end of the road and park up on the grass verge on the mountain side of the road only, spread cars out as much as possible. Don’t use the carparks in the turning circle. As always when climbing at Ninderry or anywhere, be respectful and low key. In particular, use quiet voices on arrival and on the walk-ins - noise travels. It is a residential neighbourhood, so we want to be good stewards of climbing in the area. The 20 min walk brings you out near Enter the Ninja arête.

Approach

The current access trail from Ocean Vista Drive brings you here.

Ethic inherited from Mt Ninderry

Wear a helmet, use a stick clip, be safe and tread lightly and quietly. Be careful of the grass trees and orchids. Don't impinge upon potential trad routes with new bolts. Respect tagged projects and the individuality of existing lines. And please dispose of human waste properly!

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Starts uphill from ETN and climbs the wild scooped out overhang up high. Bit of a ramble, however, the top 6 metres is the steepest 20 you'll ever climb!

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012

Hidden cave gem! Up PPP then veer R and downclimb behind PPP pillar. Ascends back wall trending L. Tree belay on ledge, then walk off and rap down ETN.

FFA: Jerome, 2010

A hard crux through the roof, especially for the vertically challenged, followed by fun cranking over a bucket or two, to an exciting topout.

FFA: Jerome, 2010

Starts two metres left of TPPP in corner crack. Climbs easily up crack till prow is reached at second bolt (optional small cam beneath second bolt). Tough move through prow and sustained climbing follows, which trends slightly left the whole way. Lower off just before ledge.

FFA: Matt Schimke & Terry Forbes, 2012

Natural corner system between Swordsman and Neo Nasi Goreng. Bit of a doddle until the pleasurable body jamming at the end.

FFA: Patrick, 2016

FA: Patrick, 2016

Bouldery start (don't use tree, yes sensei!) a few metres to the right of ETN. Move left at second bolt onto face with some thin climbing before encountering a steep top with chain just below lip.

FA: Matt Schimke & Terry Forbes, 2013

Arete RHS; Begin up crack or face to high first bolt near arete. Engaging climbing for the confident leader. Now with anchors for lower-off.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2010

Other side of arete from ETN. Use long runner on first bolt of ETN then L around arête to high FH on face. Jugs and crimps to the break. A move L on edges sets you up to attack the face. Sustained crimping over the bulge leads back to the arête and a welcome FH. Up arete to break, final bolt (long runner) and anchors of ETN.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2010

Climb the (somewhat green!) crack and flake L of enter the ninja, with some interference from the tree. Head L on the ledge and up the crack dissecting the bulging buttress. Take care with the chockstones and blocks up high to topout on ledge w/ anchors.

FA: Unknown

FFA: Patrick Simon, 2010

Face and rooflet between unclimbed wide crack and SA. Climb pitch1 of FitS then R to belay. Thin edges, a bouldery section, then quest to glory with exciting, but moderate, climbing through the exposed overhang.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2013

This is a quality crack climb with solid exposure, committing moves and an off-width crack to finish. Take a #6 Cam and plenty of extendable draws/slings to minimise drag. Start 2 meters right of FiTS on ground level. Climb up and right to sling the obvious tree and then carefully traversing left again to the base of the obvious crack line. (This first section is a bit dangerous, so you may want to start at this ledge instead of the ground.) Follow the crack and choose the left-hand line at the fork, power up the off-width to the top. Belay from the tree or further back. Descend from any of the chains around the top of Katana.

10BR to anchors (+1 optional belay bolt on ledge). Moderate ledge-y stuff on P1 then sweeeet clean face above. Belay on ledge a good idea (grade 18, 5BR to there) but reasonable as a single pitch with a few long runners in the first half and an attentive belay. From the ledge, get your crimp action on. A thin bouldery section is followed by excellent edging up an immaculate steep wall to anchors.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012

Delicately ascend through the large easy vegetated gully. Use long slings to reduce drag for 2nd half or break the whole climb into 2 pitches. Traverse right at the easy ground for 4 meters to the obvious crack. Plug in your gear and enjoy pro until about 3 meters from the top where you break left to easier ground. Tree belay. Easy walk to Katana. Very loose large stuff at top-out.

FA: Unknown

FFA: Patrick Simon & Jonathon Kilchester, 2011

Face and arete L of ER crack. Accessed from P1 of FitS. 5BR to anchors. Diagonalling left, this diminutive route packs a whallup. Committing blind moves down low, tricky all the way to the anchors. Mind the tree.

FFA: Kenny Walker, 2013

Activity

Check out what is happening in Enter the Ninja Sector.