Mt Ninderry Crag guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Lee Cujes @kenny Matt Schimke Dan Mackenzie ross ferguson Campbell Gome Susy G Gareth Llewellin jjobrien Bernie Walsh

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1. Mt Ninderry 69 in Crag
2. Index by grade

1. Mt Ninderry 69 routes in Crag

seasonality

Summary:: Mostly Sport
Long/Lat: 152.993413, -26.552727
Unique Features And Strengths:: Technical vertical faces, pumpy overhangs, stamina pieces, boulder problems in the sky, steep cave climbing, this little crag has it all. Great summer crag with brilliant views from the seaside walls
Description:: Sportclimbing at Mt Ninderry has been developed over the last few years. Prior to this occasional parties ventured up the odd trad route, though this activity went largely unrecorded. Many of the new routes are true sportclimbs while others are ''adventure sport'' with varying rock quality and trickier routefinding. A handful of long slings are handy and a 60m rope will suffice for most routes.
Access Issues:: Mt Ninderry is an access sensitive area. Please keep this in mind. There is a longer hike in from the public carpark on the backside, however there are trespass issues from the frontside.
Ethic:: Wear a helmet, use a stick clip, be safe and tread lightly and quietly. Be careful of the grass trees and orchids. Don't impinge upon potential trad routes with new bolts. Respect tagged routes and the individuality of existing lines. And please dispose of human waste properly!

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Sayonara Bitches Eastern most route on the seaside walls FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012	20	Sport 27m	Matt Schimke 8 months ago Pretty bad climb. About 3 metres of good climbing at the top.
2	The Last Airbender Hidden cave gem! FFA: Jerome, 2010	22	Sport 18m , 7
3	The Pale Potbellied Paedophile FFA: Jerome, 2010	21	Sport 20m , 7	Susy G 10 months ago Awesome! Bernie Walsh 10 months ago Great climb, punch roof and then a battle with the pump to the top with an interesting finish!
4	Swordsman With An Unbrella Fun, varied climbing. Hard move pulling onto arete feature, and then sustained wall climbing to anchors just before ledge. FA: Matt Schimke,	23	Sport 22m	Matt Schimke 7 weeks ago First climb in a LONG TIME. Loved getting out, but got insanely pumped! Susy G 11 months ago This route is great!
5	Enter The Ninja Arete RHS; First bolt high near the arete - ignore the superfluous bolt on the face to the right. Now with new anchors for lower-off! FFA: Kenny Walker, 2010	19	Sport 27m , 6	Susy G 7 weeks ago With Jerome. Love this spicy little thing Susy G 10 months ago Best views in SEQ and fun spicy climbing
6	Katana Arete LHS, shares first bolt w/ ETN. Hard crimping, exciting climbing. FFA: Kenny Walker, 2010	25	Sport 28m , 7
7	Scattered Ashes FA: Unknown, FFA: Patrick Simon, 2010	19	Trad 28m
8	The Iron Fist Project Face and rooflet between unclimbed wide crack and SA. Accessed from P1 of FitS. R to belay on ledge. Needs some bolts to be moved. Will be a really good tough grade 26 with an exciting finish! RS: Kenny Walker, 2013		Sport Project 12m , 6	7 weeks ago TR'd 3 times today to clean and check it out. Needs perhaps 3 bolts to be shifted a bit to the L...
9	Fletcher in the Sky Grade 18 (5BR) to ledge - optional belay - then excellent bouldery crimping - grade 24 - to chains. Cool position! Third bolt is going to be moved 2 feet right to bring it in line with the route after clipping hold broke below it FFA: Kenny, 2012	24	Sport 26m , 11	Susy G 7 weeks ago With Rob Doggie. Yay! A Masters ticking day Susy G 7 weeks ago With Rob Doggie. Got to the last bolt putting on drawers before spazzing out
10	Eden's Racksports FA: Unknown, FFA: Patrick Simon, Jonathon Kilchester, 2011	20	Trad 29m
11	Aileen's Arete L of ER crack. Leftward diagonal line up face to arete. Accessed by P1 of FitS. Bouldery! FFA: Kenny Walker, 2013	24	Sport 9m , 5	10 weeks ago Really happy with this find! Stellar little route which packs in a fair whallup of climbing in a...
OCEAN VISTA WALL The following routes exist on the large Ocean Vista Wall facing R to L. This wall is in shade from about 10:30am in summer and all day in winter. Follow the steps up gully to access the sector.
12	Mad Cows On Acid Right end route on Ocean Vista Wall, behind the arch. FFA: Jerome, 2011	24	Sport 25m , 11	Susy G 5 months ago Yee-haa. its Ninderry through and through - crazy chossy goodness. (9) Susy G 5 months ago Yay - got through the first crux clean. Fell off at the slimpers
13	Full Contact R hand line out of cave. If lead in one pitch, anchor in and pull the rope through the first 4 draws before proceeding to reduce drag. Low-end 26. FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011	26	Sport 27m , 12	Lee Cujes 1 years ago A lot of up and down figuring out the cave. Patience pays off. Second ascent.
14	Full Contact p1 FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011	22	Sport 8m	Matt Schimke 11 months ago Good crimping. jjobrien 11 months ago Footer blew below the first bolt and I went crashing to the sloping ledge. Stopped from going ove...
15	Bloodsport The L hand line out the cave above Full Contact P1. Fun tough boulder problem through the steeps! FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012	25	Sport 27m	Matt Schimke 12 months ago Great route. Took a while to figure out the crux boulder, but once sorted is pretty easy and good...
16	Double Dragon (Right) FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011	23	Sport 24m , 9	Neil Monteith 12 months ago Wanders around a bit too much. jjobrien 1 years ago Rookie mistake at the crux, too low on the layaway. Otherwise really good. w/Lee
17	Double Dragon (Left) FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011	25	Sport 25m , 10	Tom Reid 4 months ago its a shame the crux isnt a longer section, nice moves through the buldge. great position! mind t... Liza Strounina 4 months ago nice crux but I found the rest of the climb a little uninspiring. I don't think it's soft for the...
18	Little Buddha Black face/arete FFA: Ben O'Connell, 2010	22	Sport 12m , 4	Tom Reid 3 months ago 1st onsight at 22. Deserves at least one star! heaps of fun wish it were longer. stick clip Matt Schimke 1 years ago Very fun route, with a few technical moves up the arete. Stick clip the first bolt.
19	Zazen Good compression boulder problem then glory to the chains! FFA: Kenny Walker, 2010	26	Sport 22m , 9	Gareth Llewellin 4 months ago One fall on my first go Andrew Lightfoot 6 months ago Too gassed for a proper burn but tried anyway...almost got the crux boulder problem but ran out o...
20	Gone Windsurfing Wildly fun. Recommended for the experience Some say runout, scary and chossy, but maybe they should climb at Coolum instead! FFA: Kenny Walker, 2010	24	Sport 25m , 7	Gareth Llewellin 4 months ago super tired at the end of the sweatiest day I can remember and my brain decided to downclimb afte... Matt Schimke 11 months ago Bit run out at the top on some scary looking rock. Straight up this time. (3).
21	Funnel Web Out cave from the back FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011	25	Sport 20m , 9	Andrew Lightfoot 8 weeks ago definitely feeling under the weather...failed at the lip of the cave. Andrew Lightfoot 8 weeks ago supposed to be an onsight attempt...pretty poor attempt.
22	Kill Bill FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2012	27	Sport 15m , 8	Liza Strounina 3 months ago Really cool climb with a sweet sequence! Keen to work this one Matt Schimke 1 years ago Cool, third ascent!. Finally got it!. (7).
23	Killer Funnel Web Link-up. FFA: Lee Cujes, 2012	25	Sport 20m	Lee Cujes 1 years ago Probably top end 25, don't think it warrants the extra grade I don't think? Flashed, but had done...
The following three routes are located on a small lower tier of rock under the main cliff. To access, fix a rope to the bolt at the top of the gully, just beneath the start of Funnel Web, and abseil down.
24	Sweep The Leg On Short Cool Ones Wall, down gully below FW. Grade 22 into V4/5 into grade 23. Packs a lot of punch for a short route! FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011	26	Sport 10m , 6	Lee Cujes 5 months ago Just got there on the 3rd burn - skin of teeth. Very technical and tricky to work out. At lot in ... Lee Cujes 5 months ago 2 - fell at the top after the last bolt.
25	Cobra Kai Karate Club Short Cool Ones FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011	24	Sport 11m , 5	Matt Schimke 11 months ago Bouldery in spots with a killer last move.
26	No Can Defend Short Cool Ones FFA: Dan Mackenzie, Tom Gallagher, 2012	21	Sport 12m , 4	Dan Mackenzie 7 months ago harder than i first thought.
Now back up to Ocean Vista Wall above...
27	Ninja Tactics On Ocean Vista Wall. Pocketed face. Classic. FFA: Ross Ferguson, 2010	22	Sport 18m , 7	Igor Khudoshin 9 weeks ago Excellent climb, got too pumped just past the half way point Justin Case 9 weeks ago WoWzErS!! Really really nice route: bouldery start, and a series of really dreamy moves that sust...
28	Sho Kosugi FFA: Kenny Walker, 2010	22	Sport 20m	Igor Khudoshin 9 weeks ago Got clean to the cave then went massively off route and had to downclimb then finish Justin Case 9 weeks ago Dodgy climb... I had not such a good feeling since the chimney part, so many loose cobbles and ro...
29	Yoshimi Battles FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012	22	Sport 25m	Lee Cujes 5 months ago The jug for clipping the anchor is great! Cool position. jjobrien 9 months ago Kenny got his first ascent and I climbed it after him. Nice and steep at the top, really exciting...
30	Five Point Palm Exploding Heart Technique FFA: Kenny Walker, 2010	22	Sport 18m	PattyD 11 months ago Was feeling good up to the insane scary roof thing, then just did not have arms (or the head for ... Matt Schimke 1 years ago Could not commit to the clip on the fourth bolt, seems like it is in a weird spot? Oh well, fanta...
31	Choke On Your Sushi FFA: Jerome, 2010	21	Sport 18m , 5	Matt Schimke 1 years ago Also a very good route!. Again, if this grade is your limit I would choose a different route. It ...
32	Chokin’ Sho Kosugi’s Sushi Linkup COYS-FPPEHT-SK FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012	23	Sport 23m , 6
33	One Inch Punch FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011	22	Sport 9m	Justin Case 9 weeks ago Everybody avoided it, but I found it quite nice, steep traversing inside the cave to then come ou... Igor Khudoshin 9 weeks ago Wasn't confident about the bolt placement and holds so retreated
The following 2 routes climb the pinnacle high on the L. Take a couple of long slings (1mtr +) to lower off anchors on ledge, or rappel instead.
34	Indi and The Samurai Dappled face of pinnacle up high; climbs face proper not the crack and flake to the R (maybe 18 this way?); thin and tricky; used to be a sandbag 19! Use long slings (1.5mtr on anchors which it shares with IaTN) if setting up TR FFA: Kenny Walker, 2010	21	Sport 9m , 3	Andrew Lightfoot 8 weeks ago going right is the easier option by a longshot. Justin Case 9 weeks ago Initially did it to the left, dogged it that way, but then those guys told me that it was to the ...
35	Indi And The Ninja Steep arete on pinnacle; use 1+mtr slings on anchors if lowering or alternatively abseil off to clean FFA: Kenny Walker, Luke Sonnenburg, 2010	19	Sport 11m , 4	Andrew Lightfoot 8 weeks ago Well I was hardly going to leave a dog on a 19 now was I Andrew Lightfoot 8 weeks ago pulled a nice chunk off just above the third bolt
36	The Big Boss Below Ocean Vista on lonesome pillar FA: Matt Schimke,	19	Sport 12m , 6	Matt Schimke 9 days ago First climb at ninderry in a while. After this we got rained out. Bernie Walsh 8 months ago Warm up
37	Deadly When Aroused On isolated pillar between 2 areas FFA: John 'Deadly with the Ladies' Davies, 2011	21	Sport 18m , 9	Matt Schimke 11 months ago Top arete makes this a classic. a
38	Kachinderry Variant top of DWA, r hand traverse along lip FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011	23	Sport 17m , 9
CAVES AREA This area is a ten minute walk from the Ocean Vista Wall around the SW side of the mountain. Winter sports virtually all-day shade while in summer some routes see afternoon sun. Due to the complex architecture, a diverse style of routes can be found, though steep is generally the rule. Peregrines stifle climbing and development here between July and Dec. Hungry mozzies also like to hang around depending on conditions so bring some spray!
39	Knuckleduster R side of Nitro Wall. Begin under bulge FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012	25	Sport 17m , 9
40	Harvey Wallbanger FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011	24	Sport 15m , 7	Scott Hailstone 3 weeks ago Wish I had time for second shot on this one, really fun climbing Gareth Llewellin 4 months ago Nice sequences on this one
41	Semtex FFA: Lee Cujes, 2012	29	Sport 7	Matt Schimke 11 months ago Worked out crux. YAH Matt Schimke 12 months ago Did not work out the crux, and would take a few more shots to gain the power to get through it. A...
42	Nitroglycerin Already a classic FA: Jerome, 1992 FFA: Jerome, 2011	25	Sport 15m , 5	Liza Strounina 4 months ago Beautiful sequence, bitch of a top sloper Igor Khudoshin 5 months ago Couldn't figure out the last move to the anchors
43	Laudanum-Nitro Linkup First 5 bolts of L, then naturally R into the business section of Nitro. Crimpy V5 bouldering into grade 24 climbing. Hard 26. FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012	26	Sport 15m , 6	Matt Schimke 10 months ago Really nice crimping, I prefer this too the original Nitro. This flows a hell of a lot nicer and ...
44	(Laudanum - Project - Kenny) Was closed, then open, now closed again. Sorry. I've one-hanged it enough times to warrant keeping it for myself! Hard V5 into 22/23 into solid V5. No rest. Grade 28.		Sport Project 14m , 7	Matt Schimke 7 months ago Two shots, in the blazing sun. Matt Schimke 7 months ago 3 more goes. High point was sticking the top undercling and getting my feet up, but my core just ...
45	Toils Of A Gamescore Whore FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, 2011	23	Sport 17m	Gareth Llewellin 4 months ago Worth doing. Better than we thought it would be. Over a bit soon though. It shits me when anchors... Bernie Walsh 7 months ago Not sure what is going on here, am I missing something? I didn't think it was soft! Maybe I was t...
46	The Korova Milkbar FA: Matt Schimke, Terry Forbes,	22	Sport 20m	Matt Schimke 5 months ago Nice route. A bit of everything on it, no specific style. Nice safe falls from the crux. Bernie Walsh 5 months ago Cool route, there's something there for everyone...
47	(Closed Project - Samantha)		Sport Project	Lee Cujes 1 years ago Gear off Lee Cujes 1 years ago Gear on for Sam
48	Dontworry.com FFA: Jerome, 2011	21	Sport 25m , 10	Matt Earsman 2 weeks ago Lovely route, awesome exposure stepping out on the headwall!! Relentlessly steep and then suddenl... Scott Hailstone 3 weeks ago I am not sure I can think of a better sports route at the grade in seq? Awesome
49	Ninderry Air FFA: Lee Cujes, Sam Cujes, JJ O'Brien, 2012	24	Sport 25m , 12	jjobrien 1 years ago Big and roofy Lee Cujes 1 years ago Biggest roof on the mountain, 5m+ horizontal, 20m off the deck. Feels (and is) adventurous, but c...
50	What The Left Hand Don't Know FFA: Lee Cujes, 2012	28	Sport 25m , 11	Lee Cujes 1 years ago A great sequence of bouldering in a super exposed position, only slightly spoilt by the fact that... Lee Cujes 1 years ago Working shot.
51	Vertigo Starts 3m R of Pneumothorax in hollowed out cave. FFA: Jerome Gobel, 2012	23	Sport 30m	Susy G 3 months ago With B. This climb is pure fun. The crux is very reachy for me though, requiring a step to the le... Gareth Llewellin 4 months ago not super sustained. That is to say not sustained at all! The rock leaves a little to be desired ...
52	Pneumothorax FFA: Jerome Gobel, 2012	22	Sport 18m , 5	Tom Reid 8 weeks ago Left my guide at home made the onsight/route finding difficult and consequently I ended up clippi... Andrew Lightfoot 6 months ago Very awesome climbing....a lot pumpier if you ignore all the hands free rests :P
53	(Tension Pneumothorax - Jerome’s project) The continuation of Pneumotharax past 3 more BRs through orange bulge to anchors.		Sport Project
54	Tim Burton Tunnel FFA: Alex Coombes, 2010	15	Sport 13m	Matt Earsman 2 weeks ago A lot of head scratching went into this ascent .... what is up with the first bolt?? Is it really... Tom Reid 13 weeks ago fun 'coral reef' features
55	Birds Of Prey Pitch leading up and R off anchors of TSSS. FFA: Jerome Gobel, 2012	24	Sport 35m , 16	Tom Reid 8 weeks ago onsight to 3rd last bolt. took a few good falls working out the last 3 metres. top arete was seep... Lee Cujes 5 months ago The middle laybacking section is really nice on solid orange rock. Then a fat rest, then the top ...
56	Three Stroke Scree Slope FFA: Jerome, 2011	19	Sport 15m	Matt Earsman 2 weeks ago Very nice, good rests, well bolted. Fun route! Tom Reid 13 weeks ago fuuuuuuuuuun
57	Skeleton Coast FFA: Jerome, 2011	23	Sport 17m	Tom Reid 13 weeks ago first for the grade, pretty solid climbing. felt really good once I nailed the middle section. st... Tom Reid 3 months ago End of the day attempt, climbed clean to crux and took a few falls working out the sequence. was ...
58	Scream Like A Man R hand route in cave (L of manky crack). Very poor rock FFA: Daniel Farquhar, 2011	22	Sport	jjobrien 1 years ago Shit rock, loose, dangerous. I quite liked it. w/Knighty jjobrien 1 years ago w/Knighty
59	(Project - Glen)		Sport Project
60	Got Any Shoes Stranger? FFA: Glen Foley, 2011	24	Sport
61	Struggle Snuggle FFA: Nate Foster, 2011	25	Sport 13m
62	Absynthe Steep, hard, pretty good! FFA: Kenny Walker, 2011	26	Sport 14m , 7	Gareth Llewellin 4 months ago nice and steep and continuous. Doesn't relent. Worth a star or two for sure. Matt Schimke 9 months ago Two more shots, failed miserably.
63	yag si moT Rubbish rock FFA: Glen Foley, 2011	23	Sport 14m , 5	Matt Schimke 10 months ago Piece of shit, this is not rock. Pulled off about 20 holds. Pity.
64	Hangover Overhang Runout after second bolt, but still quite fun. FFA: Jeff MC,	18	Sport 10m	Scott Hailstone 3 weeks ago Fun, also pumpy Rob Medlicott 4 months ago Fun little roof.
65	Have Another Home Brew Small wall to a burly little roof and mantle. Quite fun as a warm up, and not a bad piece of climbing FFA: Jerome Gobel,	19	Sport 10m	Scott Hailstone 3 weeks ago Fun, pumpy Rob Medlicott 4 months ago Sweaty and pumped hands, didn't get there. Oh well
SUNSET BUTTRESS This diminutive buttress of excellent rock is located five minutes walk from the cave. Follow the cairns along the cliff base. Good for morning warmups, this crag glows golden in the afternoon sun. A few quality short routes abide so far.
66	Leo's Slab R side route on Sunset Buttress FFA: John DWTL Davies, 2012	19	Sport 10m	Susy G 3 months ago With B and Bo. Nothing really appealing about this one
67	Goanna Balm FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2012	21	Sport 14m
68	Tiger Balm FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012	18	Sport 12m	Susy G 3 months ago With B and Bo. Some interesting (in a good way) rock. Little bit tricky for the grade Bernie Walsh 3 months ago be very careful what you pull on getting to the first, good fun after that.
69	Way of the Exploding Fist grade 24 direct option between bolts 3-4 FFA: Kenny Walker, 2012	23	Sport 12m	Susy G 3 months ago With B. Challenging to read, therefore rather hard Bernie Walsh 3 months ago my dodgy arm wasn't up for this. I guess that's what happens when you think you're getting on a 1...

2. Index by grade

Grade	Name	Style
15	Tim Burton Tunnel	Sport 13m
18	Hangover Overhang	Sport 10m
	Tiger Balm	Sport 12m
19	Enter The Ninja	Sport 27m , 6
	Have Another Home Brew	Sport 10m
	Indi And The Ninja	Sport 11m , 4
	Leo's Slab	Sport 10m
	Scattered Ashes	Trad 28m
	The Big Boss	Sport 12m , 6
	Three Stroke Scree Slope	Sport 15m
20	Eden's Racksports	Trad 29m
	Sayonara Bitches	Sport 27m
21	Choke On Your Sushi	Sport 18m , 5
	Deadly When Aroused	Sport 18m , 9
	Dontworry.com	Sport 25m , 10
	Goanna Balm	Sport 14m
	Indi and The Samurai	Sport 9m , 3
	No Can Defend	Sport 12m , 4
	The Pale Potbellied Paedophile	Sport 20m , 7
22	Five Point Palm Exploding Heart Technique	Sport 18m
	Full Contact p1	Sport 8m
	Little Buddha	Sport 12m , 4
	Ninja Tactics	Sport 18m , 7
	One Inch Punch	Sport 9m
	Pneumothorax	Sport 18m , 5
	Scream Like A Man	Sport
	Sho Kosugi	Sport 20m
	The Korova Milkbar	Sport 20m
	The Last Airbender	Sport 18m , 7
	Yoshimi Battles	Sport 25m
23	Chokin’ Sho Kosugi’s Sushi	Sport 23m , 6
	Double Dragon (Right)	Sport 24m , 9
	Kachinderry	Sport 17m , 9
	Skeleton Coast	Sport 17m
	Swordsman With An Unbrella	Sport 22m
	Toils Of A Gamescore Whore	Sport 17m
	Vertigo	Sport 30m
	Way of the Exploding Fist	Sport 12m
	yag si moT	Sport 14m , 5
24	Aileen's Arete	Sport 9m , 5
	Birds Of Prey	Sport 35m , 16
	Cobra Kai Karate Club	Sport 11m , 5
	Fletcher in the Sky	Sport 26m , 11
	Gone Windsurfing	Sport 25m , 7
	Got Any Shoes Stranger?	Sport
	Harvey Wallbanger	Sport 15m , 7
	Mad Cows On Acid	Sport 25m , 11
	Ninderry Air	Sport 25m , 12
25	Bloodsport	Sport 27m
	Double Dragon (Left)	Sport 25m , 10
	Funnel Web	Sport 20m , 9
	Katana	Sport 28m , 7
	Killer Funnel Web	Sport 20m
	Knuckleduster	Sport 17m , 9
	Nitroglycerin	Sport 15m , 5
	Struggle Snuggle	Sport 13m
26	Absynthe	Sport 14m , 7
	Full Contact	Sport 27m , 12
	Laudanum-Nitro Linkup	Sport 15m , 6
	Sweep The Leg	Sport 10m , 6
	Zazen	Sport 22m , 9
27	Kill Bill	Sport 15m , 8
28	What The Left Hand Don't Know	Sport 25m , 11
29	Semtex	Sport 7
?	(Closed Project - Samantha)	Sport Project
	(Laudanum - Project - Kenny)	Sport Project 14m , 7
	(Project - Glen)	Sport Project
	(Tension Pneumothorax - Jerome’s project)	Sport Project
	The Iron Fist Project	Sport Project 12m , 6

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Crag Guide for Mt Ninderry

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1. Mt Ninderry 69 routes in Crag

2. Index by grade