Main Wall Mostly sport climbing

41 routes in cliff

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Description

The 'Main Wall' at 'Tinbeerwah' has plenty of bolted sport climbs but also a handful of trad and aid routes. The leftmost end of the cliff is relatively low but it quickly becomes higher as you head further right.

Climbs are listed from left to right.

Access issues inherited from Mt Tinbeerwah

'Mt Tinbeerwah' is within the Tewantin National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach

From the carpark at the top of 'Tinbeerwah' walk along the main path towards the lookout. After about 5 minutes, the path reaches the top of the 'Main Wall' at its leftmost (northern) end. A track down to the bottom starts here near the first section of fencing, or you can use the rings along the clifftop to rap down.

Descent Notes

Many of the pitches on 'Main Wall' are longer than half a rope length. Therefore you either need to top belay up a second climber or rap off using two ropes.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
8 R Genesis Sport 35m, 7

Start at the leftmost line of bolts on the 'Main Wall'.

Climbing 101. Possibly grade 6.

FA: J.J. O'Brien

2
16 Revelation Sport 36m, 7

Start 2m R of 'Genesis', or 2m L of the FH that marks the start of 'Cruiser'.

7 BRs, belay from rings at top.

FA: Gary Cobb, Aaron Fuchs, 2008

3
13 Cruiser Sport 35m, 8

Start below the only FH on this section of wall.

Optional stickclip of the FH, then up past 7 BRs, belay from rings at top.

FA: Gary Cobb, Patrick King, Greg Zadro, 2008

4
15 Cruiser Direct Sport 40m

FA: G Cobb

5
14 Degrees Of Freedom Sport 40m, 7

FA: J.J. O’Brien, Sandra Phoenix

6
14 The Day the Jugs Ran Out Sport 40m, 8

Bolted, 8 bolts

FA: J.J. O'Brien 2nd A. Bailey

7

Start at the lefthand mouth of the small cave formed by a boulder leaning against the cliff.

Tricky start then eases off. 9 BRs, traverse R at the top to the 'Thin Is In!' DUBB.

FA: J. J. O'Brien, Nathan Perkins, 2004

8
20 ** Thin Is In Sport 40m, 12

Start on top of the boulder leaning against the cliff.

Very well protected with 12 bolts, DUBB.

FA: J.J. O'Brien, Adrienne Dougal, 2004

9
22 ** The Opposability Project Sport 45m, 12

Lots of hard moves,Careful to the 2nd bolt.

FA: J.J. O'Brien 2nd Dan Rush

10
21 ** Uncertanty Principle Sport 45m, 13

Start: Starts at the tree stump and 1m right of the small box tree.

FA: John J. O'Brien; N. Perkins, J. O'brien, 2003

11
24 *** Stone-age Elevator Sport 43m, 11

11 U-bolts. Straight up. Hard sequence through the overhangs.

FA: the belay)

FA: John J. O'Brien

12
24 *** Hobo Erectus Sport 42m, 11

11 u-bolts. Power thru first overhang, very tricky leading up to second overhang.

FA: J.J. O'Brien, belay S. Allemann

13
23 *** Pre-Flight Departure Sport 45m, 11

Start: Starts just right of big detached boulder

FA: Nathan Perkins 2nd John O'Brien; Nathan Perkins, 2003

14
24 Peak Time Sport 10m, 3

Exciting variant finish to 'Pre-Flight Departure' or 'Hobo Erectus'. Go R.under roof and up arete. U-bolts.

FA: J.J. O'Brien

15
19 ** Avatar Sport 45m, 9

Replaces EFIG. Climb the wall 4m L of 'Me and My Dog'. Cross the corner L above the 5th bolt finish up the headwall. 9 bolts. DUB belay.

FA: John J. O'Brien, 2nd Jeremy Goble

16

FA: Chester, R. Keep

17
15 * Me And My Dog Sport 50m, 11

Start at the flat clearing R of the freestanding boulder.

The most popular climb at 'Tinbeerwah'. Hardest move is getting off the ground. 11 BRs and top out, belay up your second using rings 16, 17 & 18.

FA: Chester, Rod Keep, 1995

18
17 ** Sports Fan Sport 45m, 11

Start at the R end of the 'Me And My Dog' clearing.

Nice long pitch of grade 15 climbing with one grade 17 move. Well bolted. 11 BRs and top out, belay up your second using ring 16.

FA: J.J. O'Brien, Mat Reale, Alicia Bodaly, 2004

19
17 By Myself Sport 45m

First bolt at 4m. Belay at the ledge (FH, BR, and UB) then up and L 4m to the main ring bolts or up and over the fence.

Start: Starts 5m R from MAMD just to the R of the flat clearing.

FA: Chester, 2nd Rod Keep

20
18 Between The Posts Sport 45m

Climb up between the two small trees on the ledge at 2/3 height. To avoid the loose top out, clip the UB and traverse L 4m and belay as for BM. Very nice climb but the bolts are not always exactly where you might

want them.

Start: Starts 5m R of BM.

FA: Chester, 2nd Rod Keep

21
16 Where's The Bolt Sport 45m

Warning - very high first bolt at 7-8m. Unpopular to say the least.

Start: 5m R from BTP.

FA: Chester, 2nd Rod Keep

22

20m right of “Me and My Dog”, rather than following the path down continue along the cliff to the orange lichen wall, the climb starts behind an 18” diameter tree. All FH.

FA: Robin Barley, Judy Komori, 2009

23
14 JJ Loves Trad Trad 45m

Trad, Cnr crack on left side of 30m pillar, right of Where's The Bolt. Wires, Hexes, S-M slcd's, smaller tricams may be handy. Last 15 metres is unprotectable slab. Rap off tree at the top of the pillar if you don't fancy the runout (I know I would)

FA: Ben Deasy, William Deasy, 2007

FFA: Ben Deasy, William Deasy, 2007

24
17 Gardening Oz Style Sport 45m, 11

It can only get cleaner. Trend L to the scar at the 6th bolt then trend R. Double U bolt belay. Have the seconder tag a spare rope for abseil descent, or climb out (15m) past one bolt and a scramble to the path, slinging saplings on the way. Body belay? (Tree belay not permitted).

Start: Start 10m past the 30m high pillar.

FA: John J. O'Brien 2nd Todd Becker

25
19 * Trachyte Terrorism Sport 35m, 11

Be alert but not alarmed.

Climb the wall and corner, overcome the bulge then trend R to ST's p1 belay. Abseil or finish up p2 of ST. Double U bolt belay on the ledge.

Start: Start 5m R of G.O.S. and 5m L of 'String Theory'.

FA: John J. O'Brien 2nd Todd Becker

26
17 * String Theory Sport 70m, 13

Start at the Bangalow Palm between the 30m pillar and 'The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot'.

  1. 45m (17) Follow the columns and through the bulge. 9 bolts to double U bolt belay at narrow ledge.

  2. 25m (17) Nice moves up the slab past 4 bolts, tenderly over the top to double U bolt belay behind the saplings on big ledge. 5m scramble out.

FA: J.J. O'Brien, A. Bailey, 2004

27
19 Erotic Pockets Sport 60m

10m left of Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot. All bolts.

FA: Robin Barley, Judy Komori, 2006

28

Start at the line of black hangers just L of 'The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot'.

Use the 'The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot' belay ledge. A bit run out in places compared to other 'Mt Tinbeerwah' routes.

  1. 40m (20)

  2. 35m (20)

FA: Robin Barley, Judy Komori, 2005

29

Start at the big bifurcated box tree 50m R of the 'Me And My Dog' clearing.

  1. 40m (19) The first bolt sticks out with a neck as long and graceful as a swan. Climb up through the bulge (crux) to the ledge, U bolt and bolt belay.

  2. 35m (20) Straight up, take care at the top, touching the loose blocks for balance only. Belay at rings 19 & 20.

FA: J.J. O'Brien, Ray Phoenix

FA: John J. O'Brien 2nd Ray Phoenix

FA: J.J. O'Brien, Ray Phoenix, 2003

30
6 Traverse Link to 'HtWT' Sport 15m, 3

Start at the top of the 1st pitch of 'The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot'.

One way of getting to the start of 'Hunting the Wild Tofu'. Traverse and rise R past 3 bolts to bushy ledge, U bolt belay and U bolt tie down.

FA: Dave Barre, J.J. O'Brien, 2004

31
20 ** Hunting the Wild Tofu Sport 20m, 5

Start on bushy ledge accessed either via 'Traverse Link to 'HtWT'' or by abseil from the top. The abseil is from double U bolts located 15m uphill from rings 19 & 20 (the top of 'The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot').

Very hard to the first bolt and very tricky to the second. Use the U bolt tie down for the belayer to minimise leader fall from first bolt.

FA: J.J. O'Brien, Bruce McDougall, 2004

32

Start just left of Ricoh D.T.

  1. 35 m, 21 + 1PA

  2. 19

  3. 19

FA: Robin Barley, Judy Komori, 2008

33

Start in the rainforest just L of the big tree, 50m R of 'The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot'.

Named after the camera that failed the test.

  1. 35m (23 M1) Climb to the overhang at 5m, first bolt is out on the lip. Aid move M1 (bolt) to overcome the lip. Free to the bulge, aid through the bulge M1 (4 bolts) to gain the rock above the bulge, free up to and through the next bulge to the hanging belay. U bolt & bolt belay.

  2. 15m (19) Up trending R, then trending L to hanging belay at the bottom of a corner system and big pocket. U bolt belay, also small pro if desired e.g. #2 Rock.

  3. 15m (23) Straight up the slab to the overlap blocks, very airy position, watch for rope drag, slab finish. U bolt & bolt belay.

  4. 35m (20) Layaways, crimps and mantles with heaps of atmosphere. Go up and over the ledgy top to rings 21, 22 & 23.

FA: 4. J.J. O'Brien, Ray Phoenix, 2003

FA: 1,2,3. J.J. O'Brien, Nathan Perkins, 2003

34
21 Peregrinations Sport 120m

Just right of RDT.

  1. (21) One PA

  2. (20)

  3. (18)

FA: Robin Barley, Judy Komori, 2011

35
21 M1 ** Descent of the Machines Aid 110m

Start at burnt out tree 20m R of 'The Ricoh Destruction Test'. Located directly below the lookout.

  1. 22m (20) Trend R after the 3rd bolt. Up to U bolt & bolt hanging belay.

  2. 12m (21) Trend L from belay then up through overhangs rejoicing in the two handed pocket. A few harder moves follow to get to the DBB. If there's no rope drag continue up pitch 3.

  3. 10m (20) Traverse L staying just above overhang to U bolt & bolt hanging belay.

  4. 20m (21 M1) Straight up slab, a few thin moves and pockets. Through the overhangs (aid last bolt of the overhang) then sketchy free moves to finish at U bolt & bolt hanging belay.

  5. 25m (20) Follow bolts straight up to U bolt & bolt belay on ledge, the first on the route.

  6. 14m (19) Thin start, follow bolts straight up to U bolt & bolt belay on ledge. Choose to link pitch 7 or not.

  7. 5m (10) Up! To stand in the lookout and belay from the overhead beam would be perfect but contrary to QPWS policy.

FA: J.J. O'Brien, Ray Phoenix, 2003

FA: John O'Brien 2nd Ray Phoenix, 2003

36
20 ** Single Gun Theory Sport 50m, 18
  1. 30m (20) Use long draws under the overhangs. Straight up through the blocky overhangs and onto the slab. DUBB, toe ledge only. 11 bolts.

  2. 20m (20) DUBB. 7 bolts.

Careful on the way down, one 50m rope is NO good.

FA: J.J. O'Brien, Damien Ayres, 2005

37
18 * Antipreneurialism Sport 73m, 16

Follows the line just R of the big corner system.

  1. 30m (18) Two low bolts protect the sketchy start. Cross the corner at the 8th bolt, onto the ledge. DUBB.

  2. 30m (18) Straight up, gets thin in the middle. Well bolted, solid rock. DUBB. Abseil off or continue to pitch 3.

  3. 12m (15) Climb up 3m then R carefully following the ledge (no pro en-route) to the UBB and B.

  4. 1m (1) Walk off R.

2 pitch, 8 bolts each. DUBBs. Abseil off or traverse out right & up 15m UBB.

FA: John J. O'brien, Sabina Allemann

FA: J.J. O'Brien, Sabina Allemann, 2005

38
19 * Pagan Nation Sport 25m, 10

Start near the arete 50m R of 'Descent of the Machines' where the ground starts to rise up steeply.

10 BRs and DBB. Some tricky moves. Nice.

FA: J.J. O'Brien, Terry Forbes, 2005

39

The obvious corner. Some puzzling moves. Solid at the grade. Double U bolt belay/lower-off.

FA: J.J. O'Brien, Aaron Shum, Denis Gicquel, 2005

40
20 ** Mmm... Slanty! Sport 20m, 5

Start up the low angled slab R of 'The Runes of the Heretics'.

Thin crimping. Grade 20 if you don't use the corner. Shares any of the bolts on 'The Runes of the Heretics' plus 2 more optionals, you choose. A little contrived but worthwhile. DUBB/lower-off.

FA: J.J.O'Brien, Aarom Shum, Denis Gicquel, 2005

41

Abseil from the highest anchor rings 21, 22, 23 near the lookout. Descend to the bottom of the corner on the R. Hanging belay, one bolt & one small wire. Climb the corner, stemming, face features and laybacking. Medium sized natural gear and one bolt on

the face to avoid some nastiness.

Start: The corner 3m R from the fourth pitch of TRDT.

FA: Chester, 2nd Guy Pearce