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Main Wall 37 routes in Cliff

  • Avg. Height: 45m
  • Style: Mostly Sport
  • Approach time: 5-10 minutes
  • Favorites: 2
  • Ascents: 1,025

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Description:

The 'Main Wall' at 'Tinbeerwah' has plenty of bolted sport climbs but also a handful of trad and aid routes. The leftmost end of the cliff is relatively low but it quickly becomes higher as you head further right.

Climbs are listed from left to right.

Access Issues: inherited from Mt Tinbeerwah

'Mt Tinbeerwah' is within the Tewantin National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

Approach:

From the carpark at the top of 'Tinbeerwah' walk along the main path towards the lookout. After about 5 minutes, the path reaches the top of the 'Main Wall' at its leftmost (northern) end. A track down to the bottom starts here near the first section of fencing, or you can use the rings along the clifftop to rap down.

Descent Notes:

Many of the pitches on 'Main Wall' are longer than half a rope length. Therefore you either need to top belay up a second climber or rap off using two ropes.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Genesis

Start at the leftmost line of bolts on the 'Main Wall'.

Climbing 101. Possibly grade 6.

FA: J.J. O'Brien,

8 R
Sport 35m , 7
2 Revelation

FA: G Cobb,

16
Sport 36m , 7
3 * Cruiser

One fixed hanger then 7 carrots

FA: Gary Cobb, Patrick King, Greg Zardo; Gary Cobb, Patrick King, Greg Zadro, 2008

13
Sport 35m , 8
4 Cruiser Direct

FA: G Cobb,

15
Sport 40m
5 Degrees Of Freedom

FA: J.J. O’Brien, Sandra Phoenix,

14
Sport 40m , 7
6 The Day the Jugs Ran Out

Bolted, 8 bolts

FA: J.J. O'Brien 2nd A. Bailey,

14
Sport 40m , 8
7 Zircon Encrusted Tweezers

Start at the mouth of the small cave formed by a boulder leaning against the cliff.

Tricky start then eases off.

FA: J. J. O'Brien, Nathan Perkins, 2004

18
Sport 45m , 9
8 ** Thin Is In

Start on top of the boulder leaning against the cliff.

Very well protected with 12 bolts, DUBB.

FA: J.J. O'Brien, Adrienne Dougal, 2004

20
Sport 40m , 12
9 ** The Opposability Project

Lots of hard moves,Careful to the 2nd bolt.

FA: J.J. O'Brien 2nd Dan Rush,

22
Sport 45m , 12
10 ** Uncertanty Principle

Start: Starts at the tree stump and 1m right of the small box tree.

FA: John J. O'Brien; N. Perkins, J. O'brien, 2003

21
Sport 45m , 13
11 *** Stone-age Elevator

11 U-bolts. Straight up. Hard sequence through the overhangs.

FA: the belay),

FA: John J. O'Brien,

24
Sport 43m , 11
12 *** Hobo Erectus

11 u-bolts. Power thru first overhang, very tricky leading up to second overhang.

FA: J.J. O'Brien, belay S. Allemann,

24
Sport 42m , 11
13 *** Pre-Flight Departure

Start: Starts just right of big detached boulder

FA: Nathan Perkins 2nd John O'Brien; Nathan Perkins, 2003

23
Sport 45m , 11
14 Peak Time

Exciting variant finish to Pre-Flight or Hobo-E. Go R.under roof and up arete. U-bolts.

FA: J.J. O'Brien,

24
Sport 10m , 3
15 ** Avatar

Replaces E.F.G. climb the wall 4m L of Me.A.My.D. cross the corner L above the 5th bolt finish up the headwall. 9 bolts. DUB belay.

FA: John J. O'Brien, 2nd Jeremy Goble,

19
Sport 45m , 9
16 Environmentally Friendly, It's Green

FA: Chester, R. Keep,

13
Unknown 45m
17 * Me And My Dog

Start at the flat clearing R of the freestanding boulder.

The most popular climb at 'Tinbeerwah'. Hardest move is getting off the ground. Rings 16, 17 & 18.

FA: Chester, Rod Keep, 1995

15
Sport 50m , 11
18 ** Sports Fan

More like 15 with one bolt-protected 17 move. 11 bolts

FA: J.J. O'Brien, Mat Reale, Alicia Bodaly,

17
Sport 45m , 11
19 By Myself

First bolt at 4m. Belay at the ledge (FH, BR, and UB) then up and L 4m to the main ring bolts or up and over the fence.

Start: Starts 5m R from MAMD just to the R of the flat clearing.

FA: Chester, 2nd Rod Keep,

17
Sport 45m
20 Between The Posts

Climb up between the two small trees on the ledge at 2/3 height. To avoid the loose top out, clip the UB and traverse L 4m and belay as for BM. Very nice climb but the bolts are not always exactly where you might

want them.

Start: Starts 5m R of BM.

FA: Chester, 2nd Rod Keep,

18
Sport 45m
21 Where's The Bolt

Warning - very high first bolt at 7-8m. Unpopular to say the least.

Start: 5m R from BTP.

FA: Chester, 2nd Rod Keep,

16
Sport 45m
22 JJ Loves Trad

Trad, Cnr crack on left side of 30m pillar, right of Where's The Bolt. Wires, Hexes, S-M slcd's, smaller tricams may be handy. Last 15 metres is unprotectable slab. Rap off tree at the top of the pillar if you don't fancy the runout (I know I would)

FA: Ben Deasy, William Deasy, 2007

FFA: Ben Deasy, William Deasy, 2007

14
Trad 45m
23 Gardening Oz Style

It can only get cleaner. Trend L to the scar at the 6th bolt then trend R. Double U bolt belay. Have the seconder tag a spare rope for abseil descent, or climb out (15m) past one bolt and a scramble to the path, slinging saplings on the way. Body belay? (Tree belay not permitted).

Start: Start 10m past the 30m high pillar.

FA: John J. O'Brien 2nd Todd Becker,

17
Sport 45m , 11
24 * Trachyte Terrorism

Be alert but not alarmed.

Climb the wall and corner, overcome the bulge then trend R to ST's p1 belay. Abseil or finish up p2 of ST. Double U bolt belay on the ledge.

Start: Start 5m R of G.O.S. and 5m L of 'String Theory'.

FA: John J. O'Brien 2nd Todd Becker,

19
Sport 35m , 11
25 * String Theory

Start at the Bangalow Palm between the 30m pillar and 'The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot'.

  1. 45m (17) Follow the columns and through the bulge. 9 bolts to double U bolt belay at narrow ledge.

  2. 25m (17) Nice moves up the slab past 4 bolts, tenderly over the top to double U bolt belay behind the saplings on big ledge. 5m scramble out.

FA: J.J. O'Brien, A. Bailey, 2004

17
Sport 70m , 13
26 * The Canadian Theory

Start at the line of black hangers just L of 'The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot'.

Use the 'The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot' belay ledge. A bit run out in places compared to other 'Mt Tinbeerwah' routes.

  1. 40m (20)

  2. 35m (20)

FA: Unknown, 2005

20
Sport 75m
27 *** The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot

Start at the big bifurcated box tree 50m R of the 'Me And My Dog' clearing.

  1. 40m (19) The first bolt sticks out with a neck as long and graceful as a swan. Climb up through the bulge (crux) to the ledge, U bolt and bolt belay.

  2. 35m (20) Straight up, take care at the top, touching the loose blocks for balance only. Belay at rings 19 & 20.

FA: J.J. O'Brien, Ray Phoenix,

FA: John J. O'Brien 2nd Ray Phoenix,

FA: J.J. O'Brien, Ray Phoenix, 2003

20
Sport 75m , 17
28 Traverse Link to 'HtWT'

Start at the top of the 1st pitch of 'The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot'.

One way of getting to the start of 'Hunting the Wild Tofu'. Traverse and rise R past 3 bolts to bushy ledge, U bolt belay and U bolt tie down.

FA: Dave Barre, J.J. O'Brien, 2004

6
Sport 15m , 3
29 ** Hunting the Wild Tofu

Start on bushy ledge accessed either via 'Traverse Link to 'HtWT'' or by abseil from the top. The abseil is from double U bolts located 15m uphill from rings 19 & 20 (the top of 'The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot').

Very hard to the first bolt and very tricky to the second. Use the U bolt tie down for the belayer to minimise leader fall from first bolt.

FA: J.J. O'Brien, Bruce McDougall, 2004

20
Sport 20m , 5
30 ** The Ricoh Destruction Test

Start in the rainforest just L of the big tree, 50m R of 'The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot'.

Named after the camera that failed the test.

  1. 35m (23 M1) Climb to the overhang at 5m, first bolt is out on the lip. Aid move M1 (bolt) to overcome the lip. Free to the bulge, aid through the bulge M1 (4 bolts) to gain the rock above the bulge, free up to and through the next bulge to the hanging belay. U bolt & bolt belay.

  2. 15m (19) Up trending R, then trending L to hanging belay at the bottom of a corner system and big pocket. U bolt belay, also small pro if desired e.g. #2 Rock.

  3. 15m (23) Straight up the slab to the overlap blocks, very airy position, watch for rope drag, slab finish. U bolt & bolt belay.

  4. 35m (20) Layaways, crimps and mantles with heaps of atmosphere. Go up and over the ledgy top to rings 21, 22 & 23.

FA: 4. J.J. O'Brien, Ray Phoenix, 2003

FA: 1,2,3. J.J. O'Brien, Nathan Perkins, 2003

23 M1
Aid 100m
31 ** Descent of the Machines

Start at burnt out tree 20m R of 'The Ricoh Destruction Test'. Located directly below the lookout.

  1. 22m (20) Trend R after the 3rd bolt. Up to U bolt & bolt hanging belay.

  2. 12m (21) Trend L from belay then up through overhangs rejoicing in the two handed pocket. A few harder moves follow to get to the DBB. If there's no rope drag continue up pitch 3.

  3. 10m (20) Traverse L staying just above overhang to U bolt & bolt hanging belay.

  4. 20m (21 M1) Straight up slab, a few thin moves and pockets. Through the overhangs (aid last bolt of the overhang) then sketchy free moves to finish at U bolt & bolt hanging belay.

  5. 25m (20) Follow bolts straight up to U bolt & bolt belay on ledge, the first on the route.

  6. 14m (19) Thin start, follow bolts straight up to U bolt & bolt belay on ledge. Choose to link pitch 7 or not.

  7. 5m (10) Up! To stand in the lookout and belay from the overhead beam would be perfect but contrary to QPWS policy.

FA: J.J. O'Brien, Ray Phoenix, 2003

FA: John O'Brien 2nd Ray Phoenix, 2003

21 M1
Aid 110m
32 ** Single Gun Theory
  1. 30m (20) Use long draws under the overhangs. Straight up through the blocky overhangs and onto the slab. DUBB, toe ledge only. 11 bolts.

  2. 20m (20) DUBB. 7 bolts.

Careful on the way down, one 50m rope is NO good.

FA: J.J. O'Brien, Damien Ayres, 2005

20
Sport 50m , 18
33 * Antipreneurialism

Follows the line just R of the big corner system.

  1. 30m (18) Two low bolts protect the sketchy start. Cross the corner at the 8th bolt, onto the ledge. DUBB.

  2. 30m (18) Straight up, gets thin in the middle. Well bolted, solid rock. DUBB. Abseil off or continue to pitch 3.

  3. 12m (15) Climb up 3m then R carefully following the ledge (no pro en-route) to the UBB and B.

  4. 1m (1) Walk off R.

2 pitch, 8 bolts each. DUBBs. Abseil off or traverse out right & up 15m UBB. What's the name about?www.adbusters.org

FA: John J. O'brien, Sabina Allemann,

FA: J.J. O'Brien, Sabina Allemann, 2005

18
Sport 73m , 16
34 * Pagan Nation

Start near the arete 50m R of 'Descent of the Machines' where the ground starts to rise up steeply.

10 BRs and DBB. Some tricky moves. Nice.

FA: J.J. O'Brien, Terry Forbes, 2005

19
Sport 25m , 10
35 The Runes of the Heretics

The obvious corner. Some puzzling moves. Solid at the grade. Double U bolt belay/lower-off.

FA: J.J. O'Brien, Aaron Shum, Denis Gicquel, 2005

16
Sport 20m , 5
36 ** Mmm... Slanty!

Start up the low angled slab R of 'The Runes of the Heretics'.

Thin crimping. Grade 20 if you don't use the corner. Shares any of the bolts on 'The Runes of the Heretics' plus 2 more optionals, you choose. A little contrived but worthwhile. DUBB/lower-off.

FA: J.J.O'Brien, Aarom Shum, Denis Gicquel, 2005

20
Sport 20m , 5
37 Drew And A Sky Of Climbers

Abseil from the highest anchor rings 21, 22, 23 near the lookout. Descend to the bottom of the corner on the R. Hanging belay, one bolt & one small wire. Climb the corner, stemming, face features and laybacking. Medium sized natural gear and one bolt on

the face to avoid some nastiness.

Start: The corner 3m R from the fourth pitch of TRDT.

FA: Chester, 2nd Guy Pearce,

15
Trad 35m