A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
- 1.
Lost world
29 in Sector
- 1.1. Conan Doyle boulder 2 in Boulder
- 1.2. Lost boulder 8 in Boulder
- 1.3. Gandalf's cave 3 in Boulder
- 1.4. Dispossessed boulder 4 in Boulder
- 1.5. Above the cave 5 in Boulder
- 1.6. Thunderbolt area 7 in Boulder
- 1.7. The Broken Stick Problems 0 in Boulder
- 2. Index by grade
1. Lost world 29 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Bouldering
Lat / Long: -30.462753, 151.373468
description
Home to possibly the hardest granite boulder problem in Australia, 'Gandalf the Grey'.
access issues
The majority of the bouldering and climbing at Yarrowyck is located on private property, and the land owner was a climber and has granted access to all climbers anytime, EXCEPT for all crags east of the ridge line which are too close to the land owners house and are off limits, in particular 'Captain Pugwash Memorial Buttress'.
Please do not leave garbage around, leave gates as you find them and do not harass stock. Climbing at Yarrowyck is a privilege, not a right.
The access tracks are in the Nature Reserve which is managed by NPWS which takes you to the Aboriginal Rock Art site. Bouldering or climbing in the reserve is not clear so please avoid this and check the boundaries when exploring.
https://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/mount-yarrowyck-nature-reserve
approach
After finding the old track that passes the 'Trackside boulder', keep walking for about 400m gradually gaining height. The lost world is uphill on your right about 50m from the track, over a fence which is so collapsed you might miss it. It can be a little tricky to find the first time, look for a large distinctive fig tree, which is actually growing right through the 'Gandalf cave'.
1.1. Conan Doyle boulder 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -30.462691, 151.373259
description
The big globe boulder on its own off to the left just before you reach Lost boulder heading uphill
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★★ Slab project
It's all there - just... | |||||||
| 2 |
The Hatchling
Sit start on giant undercling flake. Mantle onto slab. Admittedly a bit shitter than its Rocklands namesake. | V1 | 3m | |||||
1.2. Lost boulder 8 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -30.462785, 151.373231
description
First boulder you come to as you leave the track. Is a 10m boulder split in two, all the problems are on the uphill /east side. The south side has lots of cool features that just need a few more millennia to erode into something usable.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Lost Dyno
Right sloper, left friction, then dyno? to massive jug | V10 | 2m | |||||
| 2 |
★★★ Lost World SDS
Meagre start holds, up to an inverted rail, a bull shit crimp and then link into the standing variant. | V8 | 4m | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Lost world
Start on good crimps, then tricky feet to top | V4 | 2m | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Off the rail stand
Start left of arete with right hand on arete. Long move up left to left hand sloper. Mantle straight over. Cool moves. Sit start still to be done, getting established on the arete from the sit start is hard and a bit contrived. | V3 | 3m | |||||
| 5 |
Off the rail
SDS then left to rail and mantle up the edge of the diamond. Don't stray right | 4m | ||||||
| 6 |
★★ Arete
SDS then side mantle and up arete | V3 | 4m | |||||
| 7 |
★ Slab
Up easy slab in various ways | V1 | 4m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 8 | ★ Trigonometry | V0 | 3m | |||||
1.3. Gandalf's cave 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -30.462838, 151.373421
description
Bring lots of pads, abs, lats, biceps...
At the center of this cluster of boulders is a large fix tree which is directly over this cave.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★★ Gandalf the Grey
Awesome moves starting as a sds back in the cave traversing through all three layers of granite, out, around and then up to top out. FA: James Scarborough, 2002 | V13 | 3m | |||||
| 2 |
★★ Traverse
Start heel hooking on the easy right side and then through progressively harder moves. | V8 | 4m | |||||
| 3 |
★ Easy traverse
Start on the easy slopers, the about 4 moves left to the last 'decent' holds and then up. | V3 | 2m | |||||
1.4. Dispossessed boulder 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -30.462939, 151.373362
description
Directly above the Thunderbolt boulder (left side)
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★★ The Dispossessed
Follow the arching line of slopers up left to a slightly awkward mantle. | V3 | 4m | |||||
| 2 |
★★★ Dispossessed Left Exit
As for Dispossessed but keep going left for a few more moves, mantle out before the stinging nettles. | V3 | ||||||
| 3 |
DaSilva back gorilla
On the back side of boulder (uphill side) there is a steeper face. Stand start in the middle on lowest crimp rails and tough moves to gain big RH side pull then lip to mantle FA: Michael Tonon | V7 | 3m | |||||
| 4 |
Better than the icecream truck
On front of boulder. Starts on RH slopper and moves left to a stand up mantle and then mantle again. FA: Michael Tonon | V3 | ||||||
1.5. Above the cave 5 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Bouldering and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -30.462992, 151.373505
description
Directly above the cave, 10m uphill, is a couple daunting large noses forming a largish butressed dome. From one angle one looks like a Easter Island Moai, this is the 'Gwydir arete'.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Gwydir arete
In welsh means "sloping lands", and is the name of a local river. funnily enough originates from Gwynedd where i was last working. Basically, poorly protected first moves gets you to a piton, then the crux. http://www.flickr.com/photos/14058315@N00/2638935338/ FA: Dan Honeyman, 2008 | 27 | 10m | |||||
| 2 |
Yorkshire ham
Amazing arete with a peg and wire low down then the crux, then your on your own for the balancy stuff. So basically soloing. There is a sling and biner around a branch high in the tree for toproping / pro. http://www.flickr.com/photos/14058315@N00/2638157463/ FA: Dan Honeyman, 2008 | 29 X | 10m | |||||
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On the uphill side of the dome, diametrically opposite to the two ballsy arete headpoints routes is a single problem so far: | ||||||||
| 4 |
★★★ Whitegoods with a view
An instant classic! Looks daunting but easier than it looks. From the cave walk left and bash uphill for 15m. After stacking your mat's, start on the good left foot and then compression slap your way to the safety of the jug and then side mantle to the top. FA: Ben Vincent, 2012 | V3 | 5m | |||||
| 5 |
Knifey Spoony
If you're looking directly at whitegoods, its about 5-10m directly left. Sit start and up the knife blade. FA: Jack Folkes, Sep 2018 | V1 | 3m | |||||
| 6 |
De-Riddled
Start on left side and climb up the face and left arete before gaining right arete and mantling straing over at the point FA: Michael Tonon, 2018 | V5 | 5m | |||||
1.6. Thunderbolt area 7 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -30.462920, 151.373243
description
This is directly uphill from the 'Lost world boulder'.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Drip
Up the stain | V1 | 4m | |||||
| 2 |
★★ Thunderbolt Arete
Tricky move to get established on the slab, then balance out up the arete | V2 | 4m | |||||
| 3 |
★★ The Curve Project
Crouch start and up the arete on the right side. | V7 | 4m | |||||
| 4 |
Project
Trend left across coarse holds | 2m | ||||||
| 5 |
Arete
Up arete | V3 | 4m | |||||
| 6 |
★★ Thunderbolt crack
Perfect hand crack practice. | V0 | 4m | |||||
| 7 |
Easy arete
Easy arete | V1 | 4m | |||||
1.7. The Broken Stick Problems 0 routes in Boulder
description
If a rock is randomly broken into three parts, what is the probability it can be used to construct a problem?
approach
About 50m north east along the contour from the Gandalf cave.
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