A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Mt Yarrowyck 184 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.372703, -30.464135

Unique Features And Strengths:

Mt Yarrowyck is granite bouldering and climbing. There is a lot of climbing that has been done and still more to be discovered. The boulders range from 2m to 15m high and the roped climbing is up to 2 pitches long.

Description:

The Mt Yarrowyck Nature Reserve west of Armidale is best known for it’s Aboriginal rock art and it’s isolation. However this area also offers some superb bouldering on exceptionally high quality granite. The boulder fields are extensive and the environment and landings usually friendly. The rock is featured with unusual crystalline pockets, heinous slopers and the arch-typical granite crimper. These combine to offer problems ranging from V0 slabs to steep pocketed test-pieces. The best time to climb is from March through to November. Winter days can be cold with single digit temperatures not unusual whilst pleasant summer mornings can give way to scorching midday sun. The area is serviced by the NPWS who maintain a toilet and some BBQs but drinking water is not available so be warned, particularly if you intend to visit in the summer months.

Jeff Gracie.

Access Issues:

95% of the climbing at Yarrowyck is located on private property, but the land owner is a climber and has granted access to all climbers anytime. Please do not leave garbage around, leave gates as you find them and do not harass stock. Climbing at Yarrowyck is a privilege, not a right.

The other 5% is located on National Park land along the trail to the Aboriginal Rock Art site.

Approach:

Yarrowyck is about 30 minutes west of Armidale.

From Armidale take the Bundarra Rd past Mitre Ten and the Sale yards for about 30 minutes.

When you get to the T-intersection at Thunderbolts Way, turn right and after about 1km turn right into the car park of the Mt Yarrowyck Reserve.

History:

It wasn’t until 1975 that the potential of the boulder fields at Yarrowyck was realized. Although the crags higher up the hill had long been a focus of local attention, the numerous problems on the low lying boulders had gone largely unnoticed. Development following the initial reconnaissance's yielded a number of area classics including Killop's Killer , Burchill's Bomber, Latanzio's Lurch and Bayne's Claim To Fame. The main protagonists at this time being Bob Killop, John Latanzio, Brian Burchill, and Paul Bayne. Unlike other bouldering areas at that time the problems at Yarrowyck focused mostly on boldness rather than technical difficulty.

By the mid 80s the focus of the Armidale climbing scene had again returned to roped climbing with the popularity of the ‘practice boulders’ all but a fond memory. However the bouldering at Mt Yarrowyck returned briefly to the limelight in the early 90’s following the arrival of the now infamous Carl Schultz. Although Carl's bouldering passion was seen by some as an oddball activity, he pioneered a number of extremely difficult problems in the Armidale area, many of which are yet to see repeats. It was in 1997 that the Yarrowyck area underwent a full bouldering renaissance after being rediscovered by Armidale locals Ben Christian, Gordon Low, and Jeff Gracie. The new problems all focused on technical difficulty and included the development of the Sharpest Mono Area with it’s classic problems, 'Pocket Fest' (V2), and 'The Sharpest Mono in the World' (V3). Development went into overdrive in early 1999 when the mist finally cleared from Christians’ ‘bouldering goggles’ allowing him to at last realize the true potential of the area (something that Gracie had been telling him for years). The first focus of attention was 'The Trackside Boulder' where 'New Beginning' (V4) and 'Jingoism' (V7) both saw quick ascents.

1.1. Car Park Boulders 92 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.371808, -30.467960

Description:

From the parking area walk north past toilet and climb the fence and you are in the Car Park boulders.

There is a sign that says private property, but the land owner allows climbing on the property without having to ask permission.

1.1.1. Candy For Jeff Boulder 6 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.371032, -30.467476

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** More Candy

Same start as C.F.J, at the vertical side-pull (above second dish) reach out right to a good crimper on the face, top out using a high left killer crystal.

FFA: Ben Vincent, 2012

V6Boulder 3m
2 *** Candy for Jeff V6Boulder
3 * Candy for Jeff link Up

Do the Jeff's Traverse and Candy For Jeff.

V7Boulder 4m
4 ** Jeff's Traverse V4Boulder
5 Nervous energy

Mantle at large hold for left hand into scoop

V6Boulder
6 Open project Boulder Project

1.1.2. Karma boulder 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.371463, -30.467342

Description:

Isolated boulder in the grassy area with one distinctive overhung face

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Warmup

Up rough nodules, down climb for other problems

V1Boulder 3m
2 ** Rama

Up left side of overhang

V9Boulder 4m
3 * Keith the Moravian Swearing Bear

Mantle at right side of overhang

V3Boulder 4m

1.1.3. Tim's/Jeff's Boulder 12 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rooflet V0Boulder 3m
2 Pete's layaway V0Boulder 3m
3 T3

Mantle up the Arete

V1Boulder
4 T4

Mantle on face

Boulder
5 T5

Very low SDS (AKA Liedown) if you are keen

Boulder
6 T6

Start right hand on RH Arete then jump high to left arete then up

V0Boulder
7 * T7

Up crimps to horn, avoid crack

V1Boulder
8 * T8

Layback up short crack

V0Boulder
9 J1

Easy mantle from Jug then up slab

Boulder
10 Jeff's Crimp Problem V5Boulder
11 *** Stolen moments

Start right hand on RH Arete then jump high to left arete then up, to blunt arete and either mantel or rock-up onto left foot.

V2Boulder 3m
12 * Scoop

Sit start on obvious feature with jug in left hand and rail in right. Up to the horn then mantel. Walk off.

V2Boulder 3m

1.1.4. Ben's Boulder 3 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fun if you are bored V0Boulder 3m
2 Sit down if you are bored V0Boulder 3m
3 HIYS V3Boulder 3m

1.1.5. Mike's crack boulder 8 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 M1

Mantle at obvious holds

V3Boulder
2 * Withering Heights

Line of edges up high face (top-rope problem)

V6Boulder
3 The crack V0Boulder
4 * Cirque du Soleil

Hard at top but with a good rest in the middle

V6Boulder
5 ** Ben's blunt arete

Thin edging up slab on blunt arete

V2Boulder
6 Thin Slab

Thin slab at start tending towards M6 to finish

V5Boulder
7 M4

The arete

V0Boulder
8 M5

Undercling overlap and up

V0-Boulder

1.1.6. Warmup boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Jeff's Warm-up Traverse

Traverse the lip from left or right

V1Boulder

1.1.7. Carl's boulder 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 C1 Bit of a bummer

Start with left on incut sidepull at face level. Mantle.

V0Boulder
2 C2 Blinkers

Both hands on high edge and top out

V0Boulder
3 C3 Project

Lower start for C2 off sloping edges

Boulder

1.1.8. Ant eater Boulder 3 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Ant Eater V3Boulder 5m
2 Traverse

Underling lip and traverse

V0Boulder
3 Finger crack

Sit start, layback the thin crack on the right

V0Boulder

1.1.9. Highball boulder 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

The BIG boulder. Use a rope to descend

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 H1

Up crimps to easy slab

V?Boulder Project
2 *** Magic garden

Jump to the large edge then a couple of hard moves then easy to the top. Please dont hurt the plant.

V5Boulder
3 H3

Bulging start on small crimps

V?Boulder Project
4 ** Foot fighter

Start on sidepull to the left of arete then up to finish on ramp

V7Boulder
5 H5

Up right Arete

V?Boulder

1.1.10. Matt's Very nice boulder 8 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 M1 Blue haired Matt

Stars standing on the ground with boulder close behind

V5Boulder
2 M2 Cubin **

Obvious. a little scary

V6Boulder
3 VN1 Scott's mantle *

Start on large flake at chest height

V4Boulder
4 VN2 V3Boulder
5 VN3

Left side of face

V1Boulder
6 VN4

Right side of face

V2Boulder
7 VN5 Jeff's excellent problem ***

Straight up from right sidepull

V3Boulder
8 VN6

Pull on with undercling and thin sidepull at full span.

V4Boulder

1.1.11. Denial Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Denied

Starts on Obvious slopers at lip, then jumps high to a jug on the Arete.

V1Boulder

1.1.12. TSR Boulder 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

TSR = Traveling Stock Route, ie the boulder over the fence in the thin paddock that follows the road

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** TSR1 Bensday V0Boulder
2 TSR2 Boulder
3 TSR3

SDS

Boulder
4 TSR4 Boulder
5 TSR5 Wednesday

SDS Start low on edges then high with left hand to small sloper

Boulder
6 TSR6 Boulder

1.1.13. Mantle Boulder 6 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * MB1 Two palms down

Up the obvious scoop

V1Boulder
2 * One palm down V2Boulder 3m
3 Arête MB3 V0Boulder 3m
4 Van's Ascent V1Boulder 3m
5 MB5 V3Boulder
6 MB6 V0-Boulder

1.1.14. Gordo's Bloc 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

The wee little boulder with the crack capped by a tiny rooflet.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** GB3 Tim's Bum

Up bum

V0Boulder 3m
2 ** GB2 The sound of one hand slapping

Same as gordo's bloc but with direct finish

V5Boulder 3m
3 Gordo's Block

Sit start in crack, up under roof then very burly like, get out from under roof to a very long reach to an edge, then up.

V4Boulder 3m
4 *** A1 Angela's mantle

Impossible! Mantle on large edge at head height.

V6Boulder 4m
5 A2 Tim's poxy problem V5Boulder 4m

1.1.15. Group Effort Boulder 10 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Feisty V7Boulder
2 ** American Matt V5Boulder
3 * G3 Gordo's #1 V3Boulder
4 G4 Gordo's #2 V2Boulder
5 ** Dihedral

Climb the dihedral.

V1Boulder 3m
6 Tim's Face V5Boulder
7 ** Ben's Slab V6Boulder
8 Ben's Face V6Boulder
9 G9 Roscoe's Mantle V4Boulder
10 G10 Matt's mantle V?Boulder

1.1.16. Throb's boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Throb's prob

Crimps on face up to loose flake on slab

V6Boulder

1.1.17. Reve Boulder 6 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Crack V0Boulder
2 Poxy Slab V2Boulder
3 Carls Dream V2Boulder
4 * Good vibes V4Boulder
5 *** Nanajanuka V12Boulder 3m
6 Traverse V1Boulder

1.1.18. Fat Bastard Boulder 5 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Haul arse

Traverse the lip on the back side of the boulder

V2Boulder
2 *** Fat Bastard V5Boulder
3 F2

Up the arete then finish on fat bastard.

V3Boulder 3m
4 F3

Face left of crack

V2Boulder
5 F4

Crack

V0Boulder

1.2. New Age area 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.371242, -30.466217

Description:

Walk along the track to the rock art site until you come to an old fence (300-400m) running perpendicular to the trail and going uphill.

Follow the fence line up hill for about 150m and you should see a collection of boulders. Most obvious is a 6m high boulder with a nice crack to undercling flake.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Jam Undercling

Climb the obvious hand crack to the undercling flake, then up into the right leading crack.

V0Boulder 5m
2 Jam Undercling Variation

Climb the hand crack to the undercling head left, then straight up to top on features. This is a guess, it looks like it should go, just needs a light scrub. Most likely been done already.

V2 to V5Boulder 6m
3 * Slash

Start on the left end of the thin crack and follow crimps to the right and up into the cave.

Down-climb out of the cave and jump onto pads, or down-climb the whole problem.

V1Boulder 4m
4 In & Out

Start in the little alcove and come out onto the face via a long reach to the right into flake on face.

V1 to V3Boulder 4m

1.3. Trackside area 20 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.371254, -30.465362

Description:

The area immediately to the north from the car park

1.3.1. Clean arete boulder 4 routes in Area

Summary:
Description:

As you walk along the track 100m, after some steps you see this very obviously cleaned arete just a couple meters of the left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Arete left

Layback the arete to the left

V3Boulder 3m
2 ** Arete right

Layback the arete to the right

V4Boulder 3m
3 Hard

Start on glued hold, move up then dyno? to nothing and mantle

V6Boulder 3m
4 Nice

Start of glued hold, up right and right

V3Boulder 3m

1.3.2. Trackside Boulder 16 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.371485, -30.465376

Description:

From the clean arete boulder, back track 20m and find the faint old track that leads up hill. Only 50m along is the Trackside Boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Breakfast in Las Vegas

Long sequence of technical moves to top

V8Boulder
2 Breakfast in Las Vegas Sit Start V9Boulder
3 Dingojism

Burly start easing to top

V8Boulder
4 *** Jingoism

Heads right from start hold

V7Boulder
5 Tim's Problem

Long sequence of technical moves to top (Not!)

V7Boulder
6 Pinch Me

SDS from detatched flake, jump to lip.

V10Boulder
7 *** Vampire Dagger

Starts at pointy jug at knee height at base of 'New Beginning' and finishes at the top of 'Pinch Me'

V11Boulder
8 New Beginning Sit Start

SDS

V6Boulder
9 ** New Beginning

Up groove from edges to slopers

V6Boulder
10 Eternal Dyno

Dyno to sloping lip from large edges

V6Boulder
11 ** Gordo's Project

Up from glued sidepull to long edge then left to hold at lip and mantle.

V8Boulder
12 Kyle's Moment of Glory

Obscure and crap, intensely reachy.

V8Boulder
13 *** L'envers du decors

Traverses obvious crack without actually using it.

V11Boulder
14 Mantle Depressant

Defiant Mantle

V7Boulder
15 Thumb Power

Technical Trad stuff in groove

V4Boulder
16 Smashed Cow Hide

Start as for 'L'envers du decors' then up to crimps at break and on to the arete to finish up 'Thumb Power'

V6Boulder

1.4. Icefields 14 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 British Bikes 11Trad 60m
2 Japanese Bikes 12Trad 60m
3 Trial and Error 13Trad 71m
4 Rocking Horse 12Trad 55m
5 Iridescent Raindrops 14Trad 70m
6 * Legler/Sarpe Route on West Face of Icefields 17Trad 45m
7 * Alpine Wobblygong 12Trad 40m
8 Through the Looking Glass 17Trad 34m
9 Blackberry Jamb 8Trad 15m
10 Sparks 13Trad 60m
11 Long Reach to Blue Mushrooms 10Trad 55m
12 The Sting 12Trad 66m
13 Frog Face 9Trad 60m
14 Alpine Start 11Trad 15m

1.5. The Central Bluff 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Holiday Magic 12Trad 30m
2 ** Eff 16Trad 60m
3 Greg's Groove 8Trad 10m

1.6. Half Dome 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Aid
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Zex 14Trad 20m
2 Go-pher Guts 17Trad 20m
3 Homogenised 17 M1Aid 20m
4 Peanut Alley 13Trad 20m
5 Stop-Go 13Trad 12m

1.7. Wall Right of Central Bluff 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bells 12Trad 30m
2 Stumped

FA: A.Stephens, G.Francis

13Trad 30m
3 Fibreglass Man 8Trad 30m

1.8. Wall Below Cetral Bluff 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Malcontent 12Trad 20m

1.9. The Yarrowyck Boulders 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mix Master 15Trad 20m
2 *** Stairway to Heaven

Start at the "STH" initials painted below the undercling flake, and follow very nice right leading finger crack to the vertical hand crack to top.

Trad anchor required.

FFA: K.Lindorff, M.Wust,D.Curtis

FA: A.Stephens, P.Prior,

22Trad 21m

1.10. Captain Pugwash Memorial Buttress 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dirty Rainforest 12Trad 33m

1.11. Lost world 18 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.373305, -30.462753

Description:

Home to possibly the hardest granite boulder problem in Australia, 'Gandalf the Grey'.

Approach:

After finding the old track that passes the 'Trackside boulder', keep walking for about 400m gradually gaining height. The lost world is uphill on your right about 50m from the track, over a fence which is so collapsed you might miss it. It can be a little tricky to find the first time, look for a large distinctive fig tree, which is actually growing right through the 'Gandalf cave'.

1.11.1. Lost boulder 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.373231, -30.462785

Description:

First boulder you come to as you leave the track. Is a 10m boulder split in two, all the problems are on the uphill /east side. The south side has lots of cool features that just need a few more millennia to erode into something usable.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Lost dyno?

Right sloper, left friction, then dyno? to massive jug

Boulder Project
2 ** Lost Word SDS

Meagre start holds, up to an inverted rail, a bull shit crimp and then link into the standing variant.

V8Boulder
3 * Lost world

Start on good crimps, then tricky feet to top

V4Boulder
4 Off the rail

SDS then left to rail and mantle up the edge of the diamond. Don't stray right

Boulder Project
5 * Arete

SDS then side mantle and up arete

V3Boulder
6 Slab

Up easy slab in various ways

V1Boulder

1.11.2. Gandalf's cave 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

Bring lots of pads, abs, lats, biceps...

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Gandalf the Grey

Awesome moves starting as a sds back in the cave traversing through all three layers of granite, out, around and then up to top out.

V13Boulder 3m
2 ** Traverse

Start heel hooking on the easy right side and then through progressively harder moves.

V8Boulder
3 * Easy traverse

Start on the easy slopers, the about 4 moves left to the last 'decent' holds and then up.

V3Boulder

1.11.3. Above the cave 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Trad and Boulder
Description:

Directly above the cave, 10m uphill, is a couple daunting large noses forming a largish butressed dome. From one angle one looks like a Easter Island Moai, this is the 'Gwydir arete'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gwydir arete

In welsh means "sloping lands" , and is the name of a local river. funnily enough origionates from Gwynedd where i was last working. Basically, poorly protected first moves gets you to a peg, then the crux.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/14058315@N00/2638935338/

FA: Dan Honeyman, 2008

27Trad
2 Yorkshire ham

Amazing arete with a peg and wire low down then the crux, then your on your own for the balancy stuff. So basically soloing. There is a sling and biner around a branch high in the tree for toproping / pro.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/14058315@N00/2638157463/

FA: Dan Honeyman, 2008

29Trad

On the uphill side of the dome, diametrically opposite to the two ballsy arete problems is a single problem so far:

3 *** Whitegoods with a view

An instant classic! Looks daunting but easier than it looks. From the cave walk left and bash uphill for 15m.

After stacking your mat's, start on the good left foot and then compression slap your way to the safety of the jug and then side mantle to the top.

FA: Ben Vincent, 2012

V3Boulder 5m

1.11.4. Thunderbolt area 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

This is directly uphill from the 'Lost world boulder'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Drip

Up the stain

V1Boulder
2 Curve project

Probably been done, doesn't look too hard

Boulder Project
3 Project

Trend left across coarse holds

Boulder Project
4 Arete

Up arete

V3Boulder
5 ** Thunderbolt crack

Perfect hand crack practice.

V0Boulder
6 Easy arete

Easy arete

V1Boulder

1.12. No mans land 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Boulder
Approach:

As you walk along the main track heading north, about 50m past the 'Clean arete boulder' is a little cluster immediately to the right of the track with a handful of problems.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * one

Sequency and fun

V2Boulder
2 two

Blunt!

Boulder
3 * three

Easy crack warmup, bum start of the Tooth

V0-Boulder
4 * four

A sequence over a variety of hold types

V2Boulder

1.13. Sharpest Mono area 11 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.374592, -30.460319

Description:

Walk along the NP track for roughly a km. It is the last area before crossing the fence into the Nature reserve (no climbing allow there)

1.13.1. Sharpest mono boulder 8 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.374238, -30.460602

Description:

About 20m downhill from the top track is a boulder covered in mono's

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Layback

Easy layback

V2Boulder
2 * Layback SDS

Awesome start hold but in the wrong place

V8Boulder Project
3 ** Pocket fest

Up the south face,

V2Boulder 3m
4 Traverse

Sit start then, traverse right on coarse rock

V0Boulder 3m
5 * Easy pocket fest

Left of pocket fest

V0Boulder 3m
6 *** Sharpest mono in the world

Follow the wicked pockets, surprisingly good

V3Boulder 3m
7 Snake eyes

Chin up on the twin mono's. A taste of 'Action Directe' in New England!

V10Boulder Project
8 *** Mergatroyd

Up the arete on the west side

FA: Sam Mergatroyd?

V6Boulder 3m

1.13.2. Pocket rocket 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.374837, -30.459971

Description:

Keep walking north along the track, about 50m after the 'Sharpest mono boulder' is a fence with a gate, stop, backtrack and head down hill / left for about 10m.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Pocket Rocket

Start in break, fun blind dyno then mantle

V1Boulder

1.13.3. Rusty spoon boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.375036, -30.460351

Approach:

From the 'Sharpest mono boulder', head north east, crossing the track, for roughly 40-50m.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rusty spoon

Hard crusty project

Boulder
2 Rusty Left

Start on side pull and pop to top

V1Boulder

1.14. The cave area 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

Walk about a 1km north into the Nature reserve.

1.14.1. Confused Fig Roof 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

Two good little warm-up problems on steep and featured rock.

Approach:

Follow track North up past trackside boulder, up past sharpest mono area and through the fence into the nature reserve. About 100m after the gate is a metal walkway over some slick rock. Turn right and up hill following water course until you reach a roof with a small fig tree curled upon its self.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Confused Direct

Start on lowest holds then up to arête.

FA: Alan Ezzy, 2014

V2Boulder 3m
2 ** Confused Left

Start as for Confused Direct then head left around to pockets and mantle up using crimp. Avoid jug on arête.

FA: Alan Ezzy, 2014

V3Boulder 3m

1.14.2. Crystal Caves Boulder 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

Great boulder with incredible holds. Worth the walk.

Approach:

Same approach as Confused Fig Roof. Boulder is situated just behind and up the hill.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Crystal Caves

Awesome problem on amazing holds. Sit start on jug and climb diagonally up and right via the series of crystal pockets and crazy body contortions. An easier V4 variant sit starts with left hand in first pocket and right on a low crimp.

FA: Alan Ezzy, 2014

V7Boulder
2 ** Pulling Teeth

Sit start on same jug as for Crystal Caves but climb straight up via undercling and side pull. Another great problem on featured rock.

FA: Alan Ezzy, 2014

V6Boulder
3 Project

Left of Pulling Teath is a sloppy pocket and a flexing gaston. Pull on and jump to finish holds of Pulling Teath. May need some glue.

Boulder

1.14.3. Clean Cut Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
Description:

Amazing boulder with a wicked slightly overhung wall. Some old glue reinforced flakes in some old projects. One nice problem so far with potential for a few more.

Approach:

Up water coarse as for Confused Fig Roof. About half way up on the left is an large dead tree. Walk past this and on to a nice fig tree, boulder is just past this.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Backlash

Problem at the far left hand end of the wall. start on the side-pull and up to the sloppy crimps. Start foot will need some glue at some point. Old tick marks suggest it has been tried/done before.

V5Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
8 Blackberry Jamb Trad 15m 1.4. Icefields
Greg's Groove Trad 10m 1.5. The Central Bluff
Fibreglass Man Trad 30m 1.7. Wall Right of Central Bluff
9 Frog Face Trad 60m 1.4. Icefields
10 Long Reach to Blue Mushrooms Trad 55m 1.4. Icefields
11 Alpine Start Trad 15m 1.4. Icefields
British Bikes Trad 60m 1.4. Icefields
12 * Alpine Wobblygong Trad 40m 1.4. Icefields
Japanese Bikes Trad 60m 1.4. Icefields
Rocking Horse Trad 55m 1.4. Icefields
The Sting Trad 66m 1.4. Icefields
Holiday Magic Trad 30m 1.5. The Central Bluff
Bells Trad 30m 1.7. Wall Right of Central Bluff
Malcontent Trad 20m 1.8. Wall Below Cetral Bluff
Dirty Rainforest Trad 33m 1.10. Captain Pugwash Memorial Buttress
13 Sparks Trad 60m 1.4. Icefields
Trial and Error Trad 71m 1.4. Icefields
Peanut Alley Trad 20m 1.6. Half Dome
Stop-Go Trad 12m 1.6. Half Dome
Stumped Trad 30m 1.7. Wall Right of Central Bluff
V0- M5 Boulder 1.1.5. Mike's crack boulder
MB6 Boulder 1.1.13. Mantle Boulder
* three Boulder 1.12. No mans land
14 Iridescent Raindrops Trad 70m 1.4. Icefields
Zex Trad 20m 1.6. Half Dome
15 Mix Master Trad 20m 1.9. The Yarrowyck Boulders
V0 Pete's layaway Boulder 3m 1.1.3. Tim's/Jeff's Boulder
Rooflet Boulder 3m 1.1.3. Tim's/Jeff's Boulder
T6 Boulder 1.1.3. Tim's/Jeff's Boulder
* T8 Boulder 1.1.3. Tim's/Jeff's Boulder
Fun if you are bored Boulder 3m 1.1.4. Ben's Boulder
Sit down if you are bored Boulder 3m 1.1.4. Ben's Boulder
M4 Boulder 1.1.5. Mike's crack boulder
The crack Boulder 1.1.5. Mike's crack boulder
C1 Bit of a bummer Boulder 1.1.7. Carl's boulder
C2 Blinkers Boulder 1.1.7. Carl's boulder
Finger crack Boulder 1.1.8. Ant eater Boulder
Traverse Boulder 1.1.8. Ant eater Boulder
** TSR1 Bensday Boulder 1.1.12. TSR Boulder
Arête MB3 Boulder 3m 1.1.13. Mantle Boulder
** GB3 Tim's Bum Boulder 3m 1.1.14. Gordo's Bloc
Crack Boulder 1.1.17. Reve Boulder
F4 Boulder 1.1.18. Fat Bastard Boulder
*** Jam Undercling Boulder 5m 1.2. New Age area
** Thunderbolt crack Boulder 1.11.4. Thunderbolt area
* Easy pocket fest Boulder 3m 1.13.1. Sharpest mono boulder
Traverse Boulder 3m 1.13.1. Sharpest mono boulder
16 ** Eff Trad 60m 1.5. The Central Bluff
17 * Legler/Sarpe Route on West Face of Icefields Trad 45m 1.4. Icefields
Through the Looking Glass Trad 34m 1.4. Icefields
Go-pher Guts Trad 20m 1.6. Half Dome
17 M1 Homogenised Aid 20m 1.6. Half Dome
V1 Warmup Boulder 3m 1.1.2. Karma boulder
T3 Boulder 1.1.3. Tim's/Jeff's Boulder
* T7 Boulder 1.1.3. Tim's/Jeff's Boulder
* Jeff's Warm-up Traverse Boulder 1.1.6. Warmup boulder
VN3 Boulder 1.1.10. Matt's Very nice boulder
** Denied Boulder 1.1.11. Denial Boulder
* MB1 Two palms down Boulder 1.1.13. Mantle Boulder
Van's Ascent Boulder 3m 1.1.13. Mantle Boulder
** Dihedral Boulder 3m 1.1.15. Group Effort Boulder
Traverse Boulder 1.1.17. Reve Boulder
* Slash Boulder 4m 1.2. New Age area
Slab Boulder 1.11.1. Lost boulder
Drip Boulder 1.11.4. Thunderbolt area
Easy arete Boulder 1.11.4. Thunderbolt area
* Pocket Rocket Boulder 1.13.2. Pocket rocket
Rusty Left Boulder 1.13.3. Rusty spoon boulder
V2 * Scoop Boulder 3m 1.1.3. Tim's/Jeff's Boulder
*** Stolen moments Boulder 3m 1.1.3. Tim's/Jeff's Boulder
** Ben's blunt arete Boulder 1.1.5. Mike's crack boulder
VN4 Boulder 1.1.10. Matt's Very nice boulder
* One palm down Boulder 3m 1.1.13. Mantle Boulder
G4 Gordo's #2 Boulder 1.1.15. Group Effort Boulder
Carls Dream Boulder 1.1.17. Reve Boulder
Poxy Slab Boulder 1.1.17. Reve Boulder
F3 Boulder 1.1.18. Fat Bastard Boulder
* Haul arse Boulder 1.1.18. Fat Bastard Boulder
* four Boulder 1.12. No mans land
* one Boulder 1.12. No mans land
* Layback Boulder 1.13.1. Sharpest mono boulder
** Pocket fest Boulder 3m 1.13.1. Sharpest mono boulder
** Confused Direct Boulder 3m 1.14.1. Confused Fig Roof
22 *** Stairway to Heaven Trad 21m 1.9. The Yarrowyck Boulders
V1 to V3 In & Out Boulder 4m 1.2. New Age area
V3 * Keith the Moravian Swearing Bear Boulder 4m 1.1.2. Karma boulder
HIYS Boulder 3m 1.1.4. Ben's Boulder
M1 Boulder 1.1.5. Mike's crack boulder
** The Ant Eater Boulder 5m 1.1.8. Ant eater Boulder
VN2 Boulder 1.1.10. Matt's Very nice boulder
VN5 Jeff's excellent problem *** Boulder 1.1.10. Matt's Very nice boulder
MB5 Boulder 1.1.13. Mantle Boulder
* G3 Gordo's #1 Boulder 1.1.15. Group Effort Boulder
F2 Boulder 3m 1.1.18. Fat Bastard Boulder
** Arete left Boulder 3m 1.3.1. Clean arete boulder
Nice Boulder 3m 1.3.1. Clean arete boulder
* Arete Boulder 1.11.1. Lost boulder
* Easy traverse Boulder 1.11.2. Gandalf's cave
*** Whitegoods with a view Boulder 5m 1.11.3. Above the cave
Arete Boulder 1.11.4. Thunderbolt area
*** Sharpest mono in the world Boulder 3m 1.13.1. Sharpest mono boulder
** Confused Left Boulder 3m 1.14.1. Confused Fig Roof
V4 ** Jeff's Traverse Boulder 1.1.1. Candy For Jeff Boulder
VN1 Scott's mantle * Boulder 1.1.10. Matt's Very nice boulder
VN6 Boulder 1.1.10. Matt's Very nice boulder
Gordo's Block Boulder 3m 1.1.14. Gordo's Bloc
G9 Roscoe's Mantle Boulder 1.1.15. Group Effort Boulder
* Good vibes Boulder 1.1.17. Reve Boulder
** Arete right Boulder 3m 1.3.1. Clean arete boulder
Thumb Power Boulder 1.3.2. Trackside Boulder
* Lost world Boulder 1.11.1. Lost boulder
V2 to V5 Jam Undercling Variation Boulder 6m 1.2. New Age area
V5 Jeff's Crimp Problem Boulder 1.1.3. Tim's/Jeff's Boulder
Thin Slab Boulder 1.1.5. Mike's crack boulder
*** Magic garden Boulder 1.1.9. Highball boulder
M1 Blue haired Matt Boulder 1.1.10. Matt's Very nice boulder
A2 Tim's poxy problem Boulder 4m 1.1.14. Gordo's Bloc
** GB2 The sound of one hand slapping Boulder 3m 1.1.14. Gordo's Bloc
** American Matt Boulder 1.1.15. Group Effort Boulder
Tim's Face Boulder 1.1.15. Group Effort Boulder
*** Fat Bastard Boulder 1.1.18. Fat Bastard Boulder
** Backlash Boulder 1.14.3. Clean Cut Boulder
V6 *** Candy for Jeff Boulder 1.1.1. Candy For Jeff Boulder
*** More Candy Boulder 3m 1.1.1. Candy For Jeff Boulder
Nervous energy Boulder 1.1.1. Candy For Jeff Boulder
* Cirque du Soleil Boulder 1.1.5. Mike's crack boulder
* Withering Heights Boulder 1.1.5. Mike's crack boulder
M2 Cubin ** Boulder 1.1.10. Matt's Very nice boulder
*** A1 Angela's mantle Boulder 4m 1.1.14. Gordo's Bloc
Ben's Face Boulder 1.1.15. Group Effort Boulder
** Ben's Slab Boulder 1.1.15. Group Effort Boulder
* Throb's prob Boulder 1.1.16. Throb's boulder
Hard Boulder 3m 1.3.1. Clean arete boulder
Eternal Dyno Boulder 1.3.2. Trackside Boulder
** New Beginning Boulder 1.3.2. Trackside Boulder
New Beginning Sit Start Boulder 1.3.2. Trackside Boulder
Smashed Cow Hide Boulder 1.3.2. Trackside Boulder
*** Mergatroyd Boulder 3m 1.13.1. Sharpest mono boulder
** Pulling Teeth Boulder 1.14.2. Crystal Caves Boulder
27 Gwydir arete Trad 1.11.3. Above the cave
V7 * Candy for Jeff link Up Boulder 4m 1.1.1. Candy For Jeff Boulder
** Foot fighter Boulder 1.1.9. Highball boulder
Feisty Boulder 1.1.15. Group Effort Boulder
*** Jingoism Boulder 1.3.2. Trackside Boulder
Mantle Depressant Boulder 1.3.2. Trackside Boulder
Tim's Problem Boulder 1.3.2. Trackside Boulder
*** Crystal Caves Boulder 1.14.2. Crystal Caves Boulder
29 Yorkshire ham Trad 1.11.3. Above the cave
V8 ** Breakfast in Las Vegas Boulder 1.3.2. Trackside Boulder
Dingojism Boulder 1.3.2. Trackside Boulder
** Gordo's Project Boulder 1.3.2. Trackside Boulder
Kyle's Moment of Glory Boulder 1.3.2. Trackside Boulder
** Lost Word SDS Boulder 1.11.1. Lost boulder
** Traverse Boulder 1.11.2. Gandalf's cave
* Layback SDS Boulder Project 1.13.1. Sharpest mono boulder
V9 ** Rama Boulder 4m 1.1.2. Karma boulder
Breakfast in Las Vegas Sit Start Boulder 1.3.2. Trackside Boulder
V10 Pinch Me Boulder 1.3.2. Trackside Boulder
Snake eyes Boulder Project 1.13.1. Sharpest mono boulder
V11 *** L'envers du decors Boulder 1.3.2. Trackside Boulder
*** Vampire Dagger Boulder 1.3.2. Trackside Boulder
V12 *** Nanajanuka Boulder 3m 1.1.17. Reve Boulder
V13 *** Gandalf the Grey Boulder 3m 1.11.2. Gandalf's cave
? Open project Boulder Project 1.1.1. Candy For Jeff Boulder
J1 Boulder 1.1.3. Tim's/Jeff's Boulder
T4 Boulder 1.1.3. Tim's/Jeff's Boulder
T5 Boulder 1.1.3. Tim's/Jeff's Boulder
C3 Project Boulder 1.1.7. Carl's boulder
TSR2 Boulder 1.1.12. TSR Boulder
TSR3 Boulder 1.1.12. TSR Boulder
TSR4 Boulder 1.1.12. TSR Boulder
TSR5 Wednesday Boulder 1.1.12. TSR Boulder
TSR6 Boulder 1.1.12. TSR Boulder
Lost dyno? Boulder Project 1.11.1. Lost boulder
Off the rail Boulder Project 1.11.1. Lost boulder
Curve project Boulder Project 1.11.4. Thunderbolt area
Project Boulder Project 1.11.4. Thunderbolt area
two Boulder 1.12. No mans land
Rusty spoon Boulder 1.13.3. Rusty spoon boulder
Project Boulder 1.14.2. Crystal Caves Boulder
V? H1 Boulder Project 1.1.9. Highball boulder
H3 Boulder Project 1.1.9. Highball boulder
H5 Boulder 1.1.9. Highball boulder
G10 Matt's mantle Boulder 1.1.15. Group Effort Boulder