Ascents in The Main Cliff having Beta

This is AMAZING. I need to work on that roof move, but I ALMOST did it (on TR of course). I'll top rope it a few more times but I can actually see msyself trying to redpoint this in the near future — bloody exciting. What an awesome route. Gotta figure out good protection for crux... There should be enough gear. The top is in the bag, and the start is tricky but I reckon I figured it out. Would I do it on lead? We'll see...

This route really makes the drive here pay off! A sunny but WINDY AS HELL (I honestly reckon 40+ knots) day while it was pretty wet in Adelaide, so pretty awesome. One of the bolts of the neighbouring grade 23 route is well in reach after the crux, so I clipped it as I didn't have good enough reasons to give the paramedics Plus the gale was making me barndoor heaps here. Possibly my windiest ascent ever! I'm ok with the critics coming hard on my ascent because of that — if I lead it again I'll try to avoid that bolt (no promises though). Especially if it's not windy.

The gear is actually great (except for some meters before the top), and the following are my own personal notes for next time (SPOILER ALERT, you only read the below if you want, and if you are reading this you are not planning a purist onsight anyway I guess):

mid to small cams for the start, then #4 (extend heaps) and #3 (extend a bit) under the roof, and a #5 at the crux make it all ultra safe. A #1 after the crux is the first bomber piece, and a #2 in a flaring crack after is probably good enough. Then there is section with no gear. Small cams and nuts at the top.

Good fun, felt slippy at times but the gear is good and cool movement

Wow, makes you think to get through the crux. Well protected though, so a nice intro to the crag!

Clipped the carot bolt and tied off to a boulder. Did not realise there are bolts there now till after I topped it 😅

A gem!

Great name!

Steep with good holds - water seeping out halfway added to the excitement!

Worth driving out for this alone

didn't have a guide, maybe this was the route? Not that good

Pretty stiff, not too sure if this was the route, didn't have a guide - obvious line up through the roof? Too much poop, too little friction

Miekas variant. (Clipping the two bolts of gold pass)

Nice sequence

Getting there .... that pull through the roof is something special

Very gneiss

Really fun!

Amazing climb. Peaked going around the roof.

A thought provoking crux

2x

roof hang making we peeee my pants

Very funky last move to bolt

Ripper climb funky stuff from. The begining with a difficult crux sequence

Pretty burly getting across to the bolt

HARD!

Committing crux move in ground fall territory.

Great movement.

Hard at the grade.

Absolute classic of the area!

Very cruisy climb apart from the crux

5 laps pretty cruisy nice technical piece of climbing

2 times complete about 8 times working the crux moves.

Laps for days great climb

Mega awesome climb. Loved every minute of it even went for the crux a second time.

Great warm up route got it done nice and clean

Fun challenge. Despite having done it like 3 times in past, took a minute to remember how to do the crux move (i.e the entire climb). Shame the top backs of so significantly - tried to make it more interesting by sticking to the slab right of crack, but impressive amount of birdpoop made that somewhat unappealing

Assuming this is the climb at far right of main wall, just under the slanting crack.. A nice enough climb. I probably missed a hold at the cruxiest part, but still easy enough

Nice rock but hardly climbing.

Took a few attempts to get through the crux but found some good beta. Would like to try and lead but need to see if I can protect the crux first, so i think few more TR attempts yet!

Wandered slightly right at the top to place pro but do not think it detracted from the difficulty or the climb (especially as it popped once i made the move). Very happy to get through this first go!

Also climbed a variant starting on Paradigm and finishing on Syllogism (paradigm was seeping a little too much for me) - is this a named link up?

I found the crux exceptionally hard for a 17 and i'm not sure I could have got it without sitting on the rope. The cam i had in the crack may have covered a key hold but i'm not sure.

Gave it a shot, crux move was a bit much for the shoulder though.

Just when you think its all over, you hit the crux!

Not sure what grade to suggest, but could not for the life of me get past the finger pockets.

Very nice line, enjoyable climb, pro looked like it could be a little fiddlier than you might think though.

The crux was definitely abit tricky but after that it was pretty easy