Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
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Wagstaffe - Bouldering First World Problems Boulder | |||||
V7/8 | ★★ Analysis Paralysis
Start matched on the side pulls. Move through underclings and a sloper trending left towards the jug and top out. FA: Tom Hodgson | ||||
V8 | Analysis Paralysis (Direct)
Start from the same start holds as Analysis Paralysis, Instead of heading out left go straight up the direct. Cross left hand to a crimp just before the lip, move right to a sloper and head straight up through a tricky mantle. FA: Tom Hodgson | ||||
V8 | Hamlet Syndrome
Starting a few metres to the right of Analysis Paralysis. Sit start with hands on the lowest holds (A left hand rail and right hand crimp) Bust up to a block side pull and a slopey right hand crimp and make your way up and right to mantle and slab top out The 'stand start' from the block side pull and slopey crimp, probably goes at about 6 FA: Tom Hodgson | ||||
V8 | ★★★ Paradox Of Choice
The best of hard routes on this bloc. On the backside of the First World Problems Boulder. Sit start on obvious jug and make your way directly up via a micro edge and some tricky heel hooking. Unsure on the grade. FA: Tom Hodgson | ||||
V4/5 | ★★ Which Choice?
Starting in the large pocket make your way straight up via a left hand crimp and undercling. Traverse left a few moves and mantle out. FA: Tom Hodgson | ||||
V2 | ★ Turkey Attack
Start matched in the huge pocket to the right of Which Choice. Move up and right, using the crimps and a left toe hook to grab the jug and mantle to finish (mantle straight up for a challenge, otherwise out right is easier). FA: Jess Roach, Sep 2021 | 4m | |||
Wagstaffe - Bouldering Birdman Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★★ The Birdman
Start right hand on lowest hold of the arete. Left hand on the block crimp. Make your way up squeezing the aretes and mantle out the top FA: Tom Hodgson | ||||
V1 | Calyptorhynchus Banksii
Start on the left arete. Left Hand on rail, right hand on side pull and climb the left face. Boulder behind is not in. FA: Nathan Hingee | ||||
V0 | ★★ Phoenicopterus Roseus
Start on buldging sidepull and climb directly up the slab. Other boulder is not in. FA: Tom Hodgson | ||||
Wagstaffe - Bouldering Newtons Laws | |||||
V1 | ★★ Continuous Motion
Start matched on the low left sidepull then continue out right an up to top out. FA: Nathan Hingee | ||||
V3 | ★★ Standing on the Boulders of Giants
Start R on positive side pull edge and L on thin flake. Straight up to the slopey ramp near the ferns and top out. Does not share any holds with Continuous Motion. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 21 Mar | ||||
V2 | The sound of apples rolling
5m left of Continuous Motion. Sitstart on jug flake and hole. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 24 Mar | ||||
Wagstaffe - Bouldering Traverse Boulder | |||||
V0 | Toe Bandit
(more or less) Sit start at bottom right hand end, feet on the ledge inside the cave. Traverse left on pockets then straight up off crimp to easy top out. FA: Dave Lofthouse, 2000 | ||||
Wagstaffe - Bouldering Wagstaffe - Bouldering Traverse Boulder | |||||
V1 | Cheeky Midget
Start as per TB, but from low point continue up and left before topping out. Finishes 1.5m further left than TB. FA: Dave Lofthouse, 2000 | ||||
V1 | Wolf Nipple
Start as per TB and CM, but traverse further left again before heading up. Harder top out 1m left of CM. FA: Dave Lofthouse, 2000 | ||||
V5 | ★★ Uphill Battle
Start as for previous problems, but traverse all the way along the middle break of the boulder, topping out at the very end. Will be a classic when it cleans up. FA: Jason Smith, 2000 | ||||
V4 | ★★ Billie the Chongus
Sit start at the base of the prow on the left hand side. Use edges and slopers to the gain the jug then mantle the prow. Just as good mantling the left hand side as right over the point. FA: Liam Johnston, 8 Oct 2021 | 6m | |||
Wagstaffe - Bouldering Wagstaffe - Bouldering Hollow Boulder | |||||
V0+ | Fluff Free Man
Arete left of the bottom cave entrance. Needs a good clean. FA: Chris Fox, 2006 | ||||
Wagstaffe - Bouldering Narrow Wall | |||||
V2 | Leglessgoatdotcom
Right hand side of wall. Hard SS possible. FA: Dave Lofthouse, 2000 | ||||
V2 | Alarm Bells
Left hand side of wall – hard start to easy finish. Awkward landing on sloping ramp. FA: Jason Smith, 2000 | ||||
V0 | Mind The Tree
The slabby but high wall around to the left. FA: Jason Piper, 2000 | ||||
Wagstaffe - Bouldering Psycho Ant Wall | |||||
V6 | ★★ Bag of Otter's Noses
Intense traverse across wall from L to R, finishing up Larks Tongue. FA: Jason Smith, 2000 | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Downhill Patrol Sit Start
Makes a good problem into a classic. Sit start the crack right of the arête, throw up to the slopey break and then across left to the arête. Blast up. FA: Jason Smith, 2000 | ||||
V4 | ★★ Downhill Patrol
The steep left hand arête. Start lowish on the slopey break and sidpull around the corner. Prance up the arête to tricky topout. FA: Jason Smith, 2000 | ||||
V5 | Angry Ant Farm
Stand (jump?) start 2 m left of right arête, from large(ish) sidepull. 2 big moves to the top. Was going to be Lofty's pride and joy until he ripped of a good gaston hold on the first move. Sit start to come? FA: Jason Piper, 2000 | ||||
V2 | ★ Lark's Tongue
Start on right hand side of wall, staying off the arête. Straight up off progressively larger holds. FA: Dave Lofthouse, 2000 | ||||
V1 | ★ Wren's Liver
Sit start the arête and follow the left diagonal line. FA: Jason Smith, 2000 | ||||
V2 | Wag Your Staffe
Small roof/arête on the next wall left of the chimney. Slopey top out. FA: Jason Piper, 2000 | ||||
V9 | The Horse That Blew Pegasus
Stand start on two edges, Move up right hand to a slimpy edge and pop to a left hand slotted edge. move up to the lip and mantle out. FA: Sam Healy | ||||
V8 | ★★ Psycho Ant Farm
Sit start matched on poor side pull moving up left then pouncing up to incut crimps that start 'Angry Ant Farm' | 4m | |||
Wagstaffe - Bouldering Toblerone Block | |||||
VB | Left Frankenstump
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V0- | Frankenstump
The right side of the top arête. Not exactly 'Frankenstein' at the Fear Factory. FA: Jason Smith, 2000 | ||||
V4 | ★★ Angel From The Coast
Sit start on low pockets in middle of wall. Straight up past flat slopers and slopey hole to high and committing topout up the slab. Pretty bloody good. FA: Jason Smith, 2000 | ||||
V3 | Battle Of The Bulge
JPs own personal battle. Hard sit start at right arête, up to big sloping bulge and finish up slab. FA: Jason Piper, 2000 | ||||
V0 | Project
Start in same area as for AFTC, but head up diagonally right past 2 slots to join BOTB at the big knob. Quite a few different ways to do this, with underclings, slopes etc. 'Almost' done… | ||||
VB | to be deleted
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Wagstaffe - Bouldering Red Streak Slab | |||||
V3 | ★ Red Barren
Straight up red/black streak on small holds to cave, traverse off. FA: Jason Smith, 2000 | ||||
V0 | Chicken Run
2m right of RB, potential finish through roof. FA: Dave Lofthouse, 2000 | ||||
Wagstaffe - Bouldering Frenchman's Hat | |||||
V2 | ★★ Pontificating Politician
Sit start on left hand side of cave. Head out and right along lip. Finish up juggy face and enjoy the view from the top. Good. Start at the rail deep in the cave to add an extra move. FA: Dave Lofthouse, 2000 | ||||
V3 | ★ Mr Bitey
Sit start in cave under right arête. Straight up and right via small flake and shallow pocket that used to have teeth. FA: Jason Smith, 2000 | ||||
V2 | ★★ Allo Allo
Sit start in right hand side of cave, up to diagonal break and finish up 'Courthouse'. FA: Dave Lofthouse, 2000 | ||||
V1 | Jailhouse
Start around RHS of arete on large hold, and move left through large dish to arete and up. FA: Dave Lofthouse, 2000 | ||||
V3 | ★ Low Traverse
Traverse R to L across narrow red streak, starting on flat hold and finishing on a big jug. The chockstone is in for the feet. FA: Jason Smith, 2000 | ||||
V1 | ★ Straight Up
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V1 | Courthouse
Sit start slightly left of 'Jailhouse' on diagonal break, staying low traverse left around arete and exit up on face. FA: Dave Lofthouse, 2000 | ||||
V3 | ★ Open Book Exam
Sit start as per PP, but rock up left into corner and straight up through roof. Looks easy… FA: Jason Smith, 2000 | ||||
V1 | Pamplemousse
Sit start on the nose left of the little overhang FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 27 Mar | ||||
V6 | ★★★ Pontifex
Match start on flat wall at back of cave facing water side, moving out on large pocket jugs on right wall before reaching back into the crimp rail and moving out and mantling the lip. | 5m | |||
Wagstaffe - Bouldering The Far Boulder | |||||
V2 | The Far Side
The far side of the far boulder. Sit start and up the excellent high and steep wall. Take a brush, will be a classic when clean. FA: Jason Smith, 2000 | ||||
V2 | Gary
2 m right of TFS, up past the big loose looking flake to top. FA: Jason Piper, 2000 | ||||
V2 | ★★ Larson left me
Sit start left of the mini roof and follow the line of horizontal edges. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 27 Mar | ||||
V2 | Larson
Small overhang to the right – variants possible. FA: Jason Piper, 2000 | ||||
Wagstaffe - Bouldering Top Boulder | |||||
V5 | Computer Camp Love
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V4 | Computer Camp
The overhanging arête with a small cave below, on the 'Psycho Ant Wall' (Wagstaffe) side. Start in dish pocket in cave, and slap out left a bit then up the high arête – bad landing! FA: Jason Piper, 2000 | ||||
Wagstaffe - Bouldering The Top Cave | |||||
V3 | ★★ Top Shelf
Traverse the obvious ledge rightwards and out through the roof to a long move to gain the ledge where it runs out towards the lip of the cave. Finish matched on the sloping ledge just around the corner. Start: Sit start at the far left of cave on farthest jug. FA: Dan da Silva, 2000 | 6m | |||
V7 | ★★ Universal Soldier
Start as top shelf and climb into broken boy soldier FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007 | 7m | |||
V5 | ★★ Inter-connector
Traverse the back wall as for 'Universal solider' but instead of taking the hard exit up and around the head wall continue out below the lip to do the easier finish of one of the V4's. Super Pumper Start: As for Top shelf FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007 | ||||
V8 | ★★★ Firing Squad
From the starting crimps, climb directly backwards. L/H to gaston, R/H to poor undercling, match, then a weird move gains the 'interloper' pocket on the inside of the lip. Finish up 'Interloper'. The entire top shelf ledge is off limits. A shoulder destroyer! I know Start: Sit start in about the center of the right hand cave on two fairly incut crimps. FA: Daniel da Silva | 4m | |||
V6 | ★★ Broken Boy Solider
Slap the big sloper then punch directly back out and around the lip to a bad pocket then back rightish via various bad crimps and edges to finish at the break above. The big slot to the left is off for hands. Classic hardy Start: Sit start below sloper under lip FA: Dan, 2000 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Toy Solider
Slap up to the big sloper, then climb out around the lip heading leftward to gain the good slot out on the face. Punch directly up from here to finish on the slopey ledge as for 'Top Shelf'. The holds underneath the lip as used for 'Interloper' are off. Start: Sit start below the big sloper under the lip. FA: Dan da Silva, 2000 | ||||
V4 | ★★ Interloper
A funky problem that climbs the inside lip of the cave. From the sloper make your way through pockets under the lip to gain the good jug on the prow below the finish of 'Top Shelf' Punch a big move for the ledge to finish as for that problem. Rad Start: As for 4 & 5 FA: Dan, 2007 | ||||
V1 | ★ Ginger Bread Man
From a sit start move up the face via some side pulls to finish at the high break. Traverse off right or jump off Start: Sit start just outside the cave on the right hand face near the block on the ground. FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007 | ||||
V0 | Dans Newy
'Dans Newy' FA: Dan da Silva, 2000 | ||||
V10 | ★★ Bullet and a Target
Link Firing squad into broken boy solider exit. Once in double underclings of firing squad, make a hard move right to join the sloper rail of broken boy soldier and finish as per this problem. The whole Top Shelf (v3) ledge is off as are the Interloper (V4) slots/jugs under the roof. Start: Sit as for Firing Squad. FA: Daniel da Silva, 2009 | 4m | |||
V6 | ★★ High Calibre
Starting on the top break at the end of Broken Soldier Boy, follow the fine line of solid holds through the sea of choss topping out the boulder walking off left before the mini overhang. WARNING. Be very carefully especially higher up where a lot of the solid looking holds are quite loose and will break off quite easily | 5m | |||
V10 | ★★★ War Worm
Link the start of 'Top Shelf' into 'Bullet and a Target' into and topping out with 'High Calibre'. | 11m | |||
V7 | ★★ Dab Meister
Start matched on undercling on the far right of cave moving up and right to finish matched at the obvious break. Set: Gabriel Grimison | 3m | |||
Wagstaffe - Bouldering Wingman | |||||
V3 | ★★★ Leading Aircraftwoman
Start as for the low ledge on the face then climb straight up. The arete is out. FA: Nathan Hingee | 4m | |||
Wagstaffe - Bouldering Red Wall | |||||
V3 | ★★ Mr Gaston
Left hand end of wall. Up, right and up avoiding the crack and block, finish as TOE. FA: Jason Smith, 2000 | ||||
V1 | The Other Eden
Left hand end of block, straight up. FA: Dave Lofthouse, 2000 | ||||
V2 | ★ Mudlark
1m right. Start on block , straight up to big hold and up crack to tricky mantle. FA: Dave Lofthouse, 2000 | ||||
V1 | ★★ MasterHarper
Start as M to big jug, but traverse right along thin ledge to jugs and mantle up on flat holds. FA: Dave Lofthouse, 2000 | ||||
V3 | ★★ Jailbreak
Start at the left red rounded sidepull, straight up via a nice little throw to join M finish. FA: Jason Smith, 2000 | ||||
V3 | Edge of Red
Sit start arête right of high crack. Up and onto right face. Might need a clean! FA: Jason Piper, 2000 | ||||
V0 | High Crack Project
Tall crack. Needs a good clean. | ||||
V0 | Traverse Project
Start at left end of block and traverse right to high crack, or keep going around the corner. Will be hard near the end. | ||||
V0 | Project - JP
Right again. Start from right rounded sidepull. Straight up, maybe right a bit. Finish will need a clean. JP done except topout. | ||||
Wagstaffe - Bouldering You Turn Boulder | |||||
V2 | You Turn
Traverse the low lip from L to R all the way around the corner, then mantle up. FA: Jason Piper, 2000 | ||||
Wagstaffe - Bouldering Botanical Wall | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Wildflower
The most obvious line up the middle of the wall. Stand start on an incut rail. Following the series of edges up to the big pocket feature high up before topping out further right. FA: Tom Hodgson | 8m | |||
V5/6 | ★★ Dandelion Tooth
The right end of the wall. Sit start on a low rail with back wall out for feet. Bust out to small left hand edge and make your way up to the jug. Drop off, has the opportunity to top out. FA: Tom Hodgson & Nathan Hingee | ||||
Bay side Boulders Coffee Wall | |||||
V4 | ★ Dirty Bean Water
Start on the low left pockets and climb up and right to topout FA: Nathan Hingee | 2m | |||
V0 | Long black
Traverse left across undercut wall from level with the dumpling boulder to the arete at tree then up to top out | 7m | |||
Bay side Boulders Dorito Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★★ Cool Ranch
Start matched on ledge in cave and then traverse around the tip of the boulder using any holds. Swing across to wall on right side of boulder and then finish with top out to the right. FA: Gabriel Grimison | ||||
V3 | ★ Spicy Heatwave
Start on right side of cave and traverse the thin seam up to jug on corner and top out as for “Original”. All holds are in for your feet. FA: Matthew Hingee | ||||
V3 | ★ Original
Start as for cool ranch but instead of continuing to traverse right, finish by topping out earlier (far left of right hand side of boulder) FA: Gabriel Grimison | ||||
V4 | ★★ Cheese Supreme
Start as for “Cool Ranch” but instead of traversing jugs use 4 slopey pockets closest to the bottom edge of the left side of the bloc. Gain flat edge low on right hand side of peak and fire up to highest edge and top out as for “Original”. All holds are in for your feet. FA: Gabriel Grimison | ||||
V3 | ★★ Flaming Hot Lemon
Start as for “Cool Ranch” but instead of traversing jugs use two large high pockets and the slopey corner to then top out as for “Original” FA: Mikhael D'indy | ||||
Closed Project
Start on ledge in cave and dyno to flat edge on right side and small slopey pocket furthest along left side. Top out as for "Original" | |||||
V3 | Nachos
SS at crack in middle of overhang and using small pockets reach to right of prow, then traverse left to top out left of prow. | ||||
Bay side Boulders The Dumpling | |||||
V1 | Yum cha
SS at undercut and straight up face without using aretes | ||||
V2 | ★★ Shrimp Crackers
Start matched on crimpy edge on right side of boulder. Make your way across the face and then around the corner to topout/finish. FA: Gabrielle Hingee | ||||
V0 | ★ MSG
Sit start under left arete using lowest two holds. Wrestle your way directly up, staying on the arete | ||||
Bay side Boulders Chocolate Bloc | |||||
V2 | ★ Flake
Start on lowest edge and climb straight up to top out. First few moves are the hardest. FA: Gabriel Grimison | ||||
V2/3 | ★ Mars Bar
Start behind trees on lowest ledge and make your way up slightly left then up to top out. Crux is 2/3 of the way up. Crack is not in. FA: Mikhael D'indy | ||||
V2 | ★ Cherry Ripe
Start as for "Crunchie" and then head diagonally left before traversing down the good ledge and then climbing up the crack to top out. FA: Mikhael D'indy | ||||
V1 | ★★ Top Deck
Same as "Toblerone" but instead of climbing up and out at first crack head diagonally up to the top ledge and traverse to the second crack before topping out. FA: Gabriel Grimison | ||||
V1 | Toblerone
Start as for "Crunchie" and then climb diagonally up and to your left until you reach the crack, then top out. FA: Mikhael D'indy | ||||
V2 | ★ Crunchie
Start matched on lowest ledge and climb straight up to top out. Lots of high feet. FA: Gabriel Grimison | ||||
Bay side Boulders The Wedding Cake | |||||
V1 | ★ The Best Man
Start on lowest holds and climb up to break before traversing left to arete and heading straight up to topout. Holds on the face are also in. FA: Gabriel Grimison | ||||
V2 | The Groomsman
Start as for "The Best Man" but instead head out right and top out. The arete is out. FA: Mikhael D'indy |