Surf Rock Rock climbing

26 routes in crag

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Summary

sea cliff, windy. Some loose rock, helmet is a good idea, Some very sharp rock!!! cut though my 11mm rope when top roping an overhang. Use rope protectors over all edges. Most rock is pretty average.

Description

Mostly Trad climbing.Sea cliff climbing, beautiful location. good surf. A place to climb when on the north coast of NSW... Better than nothing... If you dont like the climbs... go Surfing...

Approach

Cabarita Beach - Headland... NSW. follow trail out to headland, when on wooden boardwalk climb over fence and head to right side of headland. there are 2 decent gullys, first climbs are in first gully.

Where to stay

Cabarita has lots of accomadation.

Ethic

Using carrots to bolt, they are least noticeable. Headland is public location. Minimal impact to environment is required here.

History

Found a bolted climb with a chain anchor... Most climbs are probably easier than graded. Grading is my best guess... feel free to adjust grades...

Routes

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Grade Route
1
13 the beginning Sport 13m, 4

Most climbs are relative to this climb. first climb in the gully.follow carrot bolts to chains. up slab...

2
22 arete burning Top rope 13m

Start under arete. 2m right of TB. Climb along arete.

FA: 2012

3
18 eagle fly Trad 15m

5m right of TB. Up corner to small roof. To TB chain

FFA: Za Utopia, 2012

4
18 just for fun Trad 15m

Start 2m right EF straight up over small roof.

FFA: Za Utopia, Darius Utopia, Phoenix, 2012

5
15 two believe Mixed 15m, 1

One bolt at the top. start 2m right of JFF. up slab to corner then left to chain.

FFA: Za Utopia, Be Utopia., 2012

6
19 moonlight drive Mixed 23m, 2

10m right of TB. up wall to roof, then onto slab wall to finish. top out.

7
15 Sacred Union Trad 16m

Climb 2m left of BA, up slightly steeper face upto nose with sharp edges... use rope protector when abseiling in.

FA: Za Utopia, 2013

8
13 Break Away Trad 16m

2m L of Back in Black. Follow Crack line at the top section. Some loose rock at the top.

FA: Za Utopia, Darius Utopia, 2013

9
15 Back in Black Trad 15m

Next climbs access from out the end of headland.2 m left of EJ about 15m right of moonlight drive.Climb big black slab wall

FFA: Za Utopia, Maxium, 2013

10
13 Eagle Jets Trad 12m

start 10m R of MD. Up wall. Pro not great, but do able.

FA: 2013

FFA: Za Utopia, 2013

11
16 outsiders Trad 12m

start inbetween EJ & CL. up slab wall over the nose

FA: Za Utopia, 2013

12
14 Jupiter Maxiumus Trad 12m

start 3m R of EJ. up arete though chimney.

FA: Za Utopia, 2013

FFA: Za Utopia, Maxium, 2013

13
17 Into the mystical Trad 14m

start on wall under roof on the corner. Up wall over corner of roof.

FA: Za Utopia, 2013

14
20 Dragon teeth Trad 15m

start 2m R of ITM up small wall over roof. Sharp edges cut through my 11mm rope when top roping...

FA: Za Utopia, 2013

15
13 Dragon Breath Top rope 15m

On East face 5m R of CL. Up face. Abseil down to Start above water.

FA: Za Utopia, 2013

16
11 Robyn, Pauline Top rope 10m

first climb in 2nd gully, next 7 climbs anchor of 2 carrots at top.

FA: 2013

17
10 Ancestral spirits Top rope 10m

2m R of P

FA: 2013

18
6 Soul Eternal Top rope 10m

2m R AS , up easy face corner

FA: 2013

19
8 Fly free Top rope 10m

2m R of SE, up easy face

FA: 2013

20
13 3 eagles Top rope 10m

2m R of Ff

FA: 2013

21
15 take you home Top rope 10m

start under roof 2m R of 3e.

FA: 2013

22
14 to the stars Top rope 10m

climb wall to the chimney.

FA: 2013

23
corner climb Top rope 10m

next gully wall, anchor of rock - need long rope for anchor. climb up corner 1m R of TTS.

24
18 razor fingers Top rope 13m

start 2m right of corner climb. straight up middel of face on sharp holds that draw blood. crux at start.

FA: 2012

25
16 sea side style Top rope 13m

start 2m right of razor fingers. up wall 2m then traverse left across RF on small ledge then straight up.

FA: 2012

26
arete Top rope 13m

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