A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Surf Rock 26 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Top Rope, Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 153.577362, -28.336125

Unique Features And Strengths:

sea cliff, windy. Some loose rock, helmet is a good idea, Some very sharp rock!!! cut though my 11mm rope when top roping an overhang. Use rope protectors over all edges. Most rock is pretty average.

Description:

Mostly Trad climbing.Sea cliff climbing, beautiful location. good surf. A place to climb when on the north coast of NSW... Better than nothing... If you dont like the climbs... go Surfing...

Approach:

Cabarita Beach - Headland... NSW. follow trail out to headland, when on wooden boardwalk climb over fence and head to right side of headland. there are 2 decent gullys, first climbs are in first gully.

Where To Stay:

Cabarita has lots of accomadation.

Ethic:

Using carrots to bolt, they are least noticeable. Headland is public location. Minimal impact to environment is required here.

History:

Found a bolted climb with a chain anchor... Most climbs are probably easier than graded. Grading is my best guess... feel free to adjust grades...

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 the beginning

Most climbs are relative to this climb. first climb in the gully.follow carrot bolts to chains. up slab...

13Sport 13m, 4
2 arete burning

Start under arete. 2m right of TB. Climb along arete.

FA: 2012

22Top rope 13m
3 eagle fly

5m right of TB. Up corner to small roof. To TB chain

FFA: Za Utopia, 2012

18Trad 15m
4 just for fun

Start 2m right EF straight up over small roof.

FFA: Za Utopia, Darius Utopia, Phoenix, 2012

18Trad 15m
5 two believe

One bolt at the top. start 2m right of JFF. up slab to corner then left to chain.

FFA: Za Utopia, Be Utopia., 2012

15Mixed 15m, 1
6 moonlight drive

10m right of TB. up wall to roof, then onto slab wall to finish. top out.

19Mixed 23m, 2
7 Sacred Union

Climb 2m left of BA, up slightly steeper face upto nose with sharp edges... use rope protector when abseiling in.

FA: Za Utopia, 2013

15Trad 16m
8 Break Away

2m L of Back in Black. Follow Crack line at the top section. Some loose rock at the top.

FA: Za Utopia, Darius Utopia, 2013

13Trad 16m
9 Back in Black

Next climbs access from out the end of headland.2 m left of EJ about 15m right of moonlight drive.Climb big black slab wall

FFA: Za Utopia, Maxium, 2013

15Trad 15m
10 Eagle Jets

start 10m R of MD. Up wall. Pro not great, but do able.

FA: 2013

FFA: Za Utopia, 2013

13Trad 12m
11 outsiders

start inbetween EJ & CL. up slab wall over the nose

FA: Za Utopia, 2013

16Trad 12m
12 Jupiter Maxiumus

start 3m R of EJ. up arete though chimney.

FA: Za Utopia, 2013

FFA: Za Utopia, Maxium, 2013

14Trad 12m
13 Into the mystical

start on wall under roof on the corner. Up wall over corner of roof.

FA: Za Utopia, 2013

17Trad 14m
14 Dragon teeth

start 2m R of ITM up small wall over roof. Sharp edges cut through my 11mm rope when top roping...

FA: Za Utopia, 2013

20Trad 15m
15 Dragon Breath

On East face 5m R of CL. Up face. Abseil down to Start above water.

FA: Za Utopia, 2013

13Top rope 15m
16 Robyn, Pauline

first climb in 2nd gully, next 7 climbs anchor of 2 carrots at top.

FA: 2013

11Top rope 10m
17 Ancestral spirits

2m R of P

FA: 2013

10Top rope 10m
18 Soul Eternal

2m R AS , up easy face corner

FA: 2013

6Top rope 10m
19 Fly free

2m R of SE, up easy face

FA: 2013

8Top rope 10m
20 3 eagles

2m R of Ff

FA: 2013

13Top rope 10m
21 take you home

start under roof 2m R of 3e.

FA: 2013

15Top rope 10m
22 to the stars

climb wall to the chimney.

FA: 2013

14Top rope 10m
23 corner climb

next gully wall, anchor of rock - need long rope for anchor. climb up corner 1m R of TTS.

Top rope 10m
24 razor fingers

start 2m right of corner climb. straight up middel of face on sharp holds that draw blood. crux at start.

FA: 2012

18Top rope 13m
25 sea side style

start 2m right of razor fingers. up wall 2m then traverse left across RF on small ledge then straight up.

FA: 2012

16Top rope 13m
26 arete Top rope 13m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
6 Soul Eternal Top rope 10m
8 Fly free Top rope 10m
10 Ancestral spirits Top rope 10m
11 Robyn, Pauline Top rope 10m
13 3 eagles Top rope 10m
Break Away Trad 16m
Dragon Breath Top rope 15m
Eagle Jets Trad 12m
the beginning Sport 13m, 4
14 Jupiter Maxiumus Trad 12m
to the stars Top rope 10m
15 Back in Black Trad 15m
Sacred Union Trad 16m
take you home Top rope 10m
two believe Mixed 15m, 1
16 outsiders Trad 12m
sea side style Top rope 13m
17 Into the mystical Trad 14m
18 eagle fly Trad 15m
just for fun Trad 15m
razor fingers Top rope 13m
19 moonlight drive Mixed 23m, 2
20 Dragon teeth Trad 15m
22 arete burning Top rope 13m
arete Top rope 13m
corner climb Top rope 10m