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Approach

Take the Grafton / Dorrigo road for 25km and turn right to Hillgrove. Near the old post Office pick up the Long Point Rd. and follow this for 5.9km until you cross a concrete bridge over Four Mile Creek, then turn right over a grid into private property. (Permission MUST be obtained from the property owners. Please don’t arrive before 9:00am. Farmers sometimes sleep-in.) Follow the track for about 1km from the homestead until just over the creek and park before the gate. Follow the creek down for a kilometre to the gorge. To enter the gorge walk one km. down the left side to a gully or abseil in down the right-hand side.

The climbs are described from left of the waterfall, around to right of the waterfall. The first climb described here is Skylite.

Routes

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Grade Route

Start: A meandering route up the face to the left of the falls. The description is vague, so good luck. Rarely attempted these days.

  1. 18m Start about 18m. left of the water. Up the crack then right across small slab.and up to base of falls.

  2. 30m Wander up above the first belay and slightly left of second belay(?) to a small chimney. Chockstone belay.

  3. 28m Go up and slightly left to the base of the large chimney. Chockstone belay.

  4. 30m Wander straight up and to the left to belay on a large roof over a cave.

  5. 18m Across the grass to the left and up the gully and left to a large tree belay. Scramble to top.

FA: E.Cantrill & R.Jones, 1969

Start: At the top of the 4th pitch of Skylite and is virtually a variant finish.

  1. 18m Step right off the roof and into a shallow groove, and up to next ledge.

  2. 18m Up crack to block, traverse around to the right-hand side of the block. Up the crack, onto the ledge on the nose. Then up crack in wall to top.

FA: R.Jones & D.Gallimore (alt leads), 1971

Start: The chimney/cleft just to the left side of the water course. Good fun.

  1. 25m Up the slabs

  2. 25m More slabs to base of the chimney.

  3. Step inside and up the chimney.

  4. Chimney

  5. Chimney

  6. Chimney

FA: J.Street, D.Gallimore (pitches 5, (pitches 5 & 6), 1971

FFA: A.Stephens & R.Dixon, 1975

Start: At the far right-hand side of the buttress, east wall. The corner with blocks in it and a large tree at the base. Sickle-shaped crack up higher. Bob was simply going to call it The Sickle, a nice name. But he failed to do the sickle crack, side-stepping to the left. Hence this wonderful name. The sickle off-width awaits a first ascent !

  1. 40m Up corner then traverse left under the roof into flake system, then right to ledge under off-width.

  2. 40m Up off-width to a manky ledge, then up corner off-width to the start of sickle shaped crack.

  3. 30m Traverse left then up crack to roof. Left around roof and up to small fig-tree and ledge.

  4. 20m Right into cracks, then traverse right and up line to top.

FA: B.Killip & R.Stazewski (Some aid 2nd pitch) (alt.leads), 1975

FFA: J.Friend & B.Killip, 1977

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