Routes in Northwest Slopes and plains

Mainly used as a down-climb (inclusive of tree), but can be climbed as its own route. Up through dishy features, good edges to pull over the top.

Starting on the lowest left side pull, follow obvious features right and up. Shares finish with "Mango Skin".

Starts in the obvious left most undercut, trends right and upwards, topping out similarly to "Mango Pit"

Sit start on opposing side-pulls of the undercut block. Work your way up the right hand rail before stepping left onto the face, then up and over through a thin top-out.

Pinch or layback your way up the left arete of the left hand corner.

Start as per "Gum Gum Rocket", but use the face holds to climb up and mantle over to top out.

Start on the obvious crimp rail in the centre and about 1/3 of the way up the wall, and dyno/deadpoint to the top edge.

Obvious arete to the right of "The Knock-Up Stream", starting on the lowest good edges, follow the arete all the way right and mantle over top to finish without using the other boulder. Probably around V5?

Up face and left arete to obvious ledge, press up mantle onto top of boulder.

Start as per "The Knock-Up Stream" but continue on through pinch rail, staying left, and top out over the left hand side.

Sit start at the base of the crack and jam or layback you way up to the base of the pinch rail. Top out over the right.

continue past 2 more bolts to chain after finishing either Exslovenian or Snuggles The Dragon.

The groove up the centre of the ampitheatre to DBB. Starts at small pedestal onto column and steps right as it starts to steepen into main line.

The direct eliminates a couple rock climbing moves!

Sit start with underling.

Stand start with the obvious finger lock crack, set up feet and big throw to small edge, a bunch of compression moves and good bouldering. A sit start goes but adds alot more harder climbing, yet to be unlocked

Climbs from a sit start but also a stand start problem

Quite technically demanding highball, there is fixed hangers uptop of the cliff but history is unknown along with any ascents. Sit start with both hands on the bottom side pull. Trend right and up to double under clings then up blunt arete through to some rewarding jugs

On the back side of Pray-Mantle. Start at the very left on the beginning of the lip. Traverse right and up, mantle over.

Starts on left hand sidepull, and right hand sloping crimp. High foot, slap in, pull over, bish, bash, bosh.

Thin-hands crack straight up the left hand side of the boulder. Instant classic! Shares top out with Skeddy Noodle.

Thin finger crack, stella

Start as per MYM, after first bolt head straight up on very small holds. Must topout to earn grade.

Low angle laybacking. Bump a #5 to about half way then a #6 for the rest of the way to over a lip.

Steep splitter in a dihedral. Starts as baggy #4's, thins to #0.75 and opens up again to baggy #3's. Continue to DBB, if you extend the anchors and skip the last tenuous jams you haven't done it.

Obvious line up the narrow face of the boulder. Top out over the right hand side.

Deceptively steep crimpy face, ?over 50 degrees

Two obvious crimps to stand start, move up and exit to the right with plenty of holds to choose from. Down climb over the back of boulder near tree, lower to hand holds in dish feature and drop to ground.

Same start holds as GS, but from the pinch move left and down into jug, then up the obvious line to a rail over the lip.

As per DSK to third bolt then head hard right for 1 bolt, continue over bulge to DBB

Flake taking gear to same bolts as MYM

Stick clip first bolt. Start on right side face, climb around blunt arete to undercling seem following U bolts to top.

Follow flake at ground level all the way left, hard boulder followed by some more sustained crimping. Shared anchors with proj to right of route.

Left leaning water seam. Shallow flared seam past 3 bolts, becomes deep enough for gear about 1/2 way taking a mix of sizes.

Hand/Fist crack, takes #3's and #4's

Open proj, will need more cleaning for anyone looking to try it. Start up flake, very thin crimpers to jug 2/3 up wall, continue to DBB.

Short hand crack. Perfect for beginners learning to jam/place gear.

Impressive roof to steep pinned flake and crimpers.

Start up right side of flake system. Jug city until funky mantle to DBB. Size 2-4 cams.

Start of left side of large flake, follow 3 FH to good rest. Grit through tough thin boulder problem past 1 more FH to DBB.

Chimney to the left is out.

Some vertical techyness

Some small crimps out right to the arete, mantle to DBB.

Shouldery technical climbing to a deceptively steep top section. 4FH to DBB.

Striking thin seam curving up the main wall. Very thin with little options for feet. 4FH to DBB.

Thin and sequencey boulder problem into a cool topout/mantle. 3 FH to DBB on top of buttress.

Lovely #3/4 crack to DBB. Can be topped out for extra cool points

Obvious large offwidth. Starts #3/4, up over rooflet into #5/6's, continue to DBB

High first bolt, stick clip in mind. Start up shallow corner feature, continue up slab via very thin holds and technical footwork to DBB. Can be topped out.

Very thin and technical arete into some crack technique to topout. 4 FH to DBB.

Easy highball. Start in corner at the end of Traverse. Up dynamicly on widely spaced edges

Corner crack scramble at the LHS of the craglet

Start at the base of "Scramble" and traverse right to the base of "Corner"

Right side of the wall, thin moves heady topout.

As per Geriatric Care however head straight up the prow rather than to the right of it.

Start as for Geriatric Care. After the dyno, hard left traverse into the last part of Intensive Care Bear

Start as per Obliteration Imminent then follow the seam to the right.

Crimpy face to the right of GC

Start little overhang 4m right of IC. Using undercling reach out to obvious big flat hold, burly moves lead to sloper finish.

Stand start on big left undercling and right hand incut. Left across the face then mantle just next to Intensive Care.

Multiple holds removed by a certain angry local. Has not been done since and will presumably be a lot harder.

Right hand crack, awkward size

Left hand crack. Use the face holds and Mr Koochew will be angry.

Stand start matched on crescent shaped crimper. Left hand to slopey rail, far footer left, right hand to small crimp in the seam, left hand up to small slopey pocket. Rest as per OI. Right hand crack and features on right hand wall is out.

As per OI starting from the left and right sidepulls

Sit start matched on flake low down. Left hand up to side pull, right hand out to good side pull in seam. Foot trickery to then gain good edges up higher. Top out using various good crimpers. The crack and wall to the left is out.

Sit start in the middle of the wall, left hand on slopey crimp used on Course Correction, right hand on sloper used for Course Corrected. Left hand up to crimp, Right hand into obvious pocket, high feet then bump either right or left to good holds up top to top out.

Sit start matched on large sidepull with feet out right in a layback position. Left hand far left into sloper, move feet left. Right hand intermediate then up up to decent crimp. Left hand up to good edges then up to various jugs for top out.

Sit start with left hand on decent edge and right hand on undercling flake. Right hand out to slopey crimp then bump up to better crimp. Left hand into decent pinch, high right foot + flag the left and bump left hand to sloper. Wander on to the top. (Large rail right down the bottom is out for feet)

Sit start matched on good crimp rail, cross right hand over to sidepull, left hand to small jug, Right hand to crimp, left hand to jug.

Sit start on good undercling, big move right hand to jug + match. Some foot trickery then right hand to crimp, left hand into sidepull, right hand to jug, wander to the top.

Sit start on two opposing side pulls and a good footer to the left. Move up to right hand side pull, stand up to gain slopey rail with the left. Match hands and use good left foot to dyno to the lip, mantle to finish. (New static method found, more like v4 now) Michael Moore

More a warning than a recommended route. The ridge on the right of the ampitheatre is looser dirtier and steeper than appearances. After 40 m, above the hand crack crux it degenerates further into a vegetated gully.

1. 30m (17) First pitch of Guided Missile.

2. 20m (-) From the belay go right and behind the tree to stacked blocks. Right onto a mini pinacle, then pull up left into a short hanging hand crack. Up the crack then left to the second belay ledge of GM.

3. 30m (-) P3 of GM. Up rightward trending crack. Some committing moves.

From the top of Kaputar pinnacle down climb to the Col, then stay on the ridge proper to the lookout. Mostly grade 2 scrambling but a couple of 10 m steps with real moves and decent gear possible on great rock.

The shortish corner left of arete to shared anchors. A set of micro cams and 0.75, 1 and #2 cams suffice.

From the top of Fanciful go right over rib of rock into right facing groove. Up to DBB. Excellent water washed rock. Single set of cams 0.5 to #4 .

From the top of Whinging Cripple clip bolt up and left, then step down and airily go left around buttress into a groove on its left side. Follow this to chain anchors past 2 horizontals. Good but spaced gear.

Start up Whinging cripple for 15 metres. At chimney step right onto face via diagonal crack and up slabby line staying left of NMAB bolts with adequate gear to shared anchors.

Undercut start on left side of arete and up left face, heading right to anchors before slab. Anchors fixed hangers only at present with single maillion.

Starts on buttress at right hand end of sector. Stick clip high bolt to protect bouldery start, then up slightly right into thin crack that takes small gear to finger size. DBB as for arete on left, or belay on slab and finish up NCM pitch 2.

The sharp overhanging arete 15 m right of waterfall. Start on ground, not up ramp. Optional small finger size wire or cam after last bolt. Optional small wires to start, or use a long stick. Walk back to DBB.

The stepped appearing crack just left of a pillar of stacked blocks, and 4 m right of Arete. Good gear throughout RPs to #3. At half height the angle eases and vegetation increases. Trend left to top via a slabby hand crack. Trad belay. Alternatively at 15 m, traverse 3m left to anchors and abseil.

The chimney feature in the alcove. Joins NMAB after a short section of finger crack on the right wall. The name says it all.

Rediscovered while climbing "That Sixties Groove Direct", where a lost arrow piton, sling and steel carabiner are insitu at the base of the main groove. Whether completed at the time or bailed at the peg, the climb would have approached across the featured wall from the right and finishes up the groove (now protected with modern cams)

Start at mid point of roofs, 3m left of Dekaputation below finger to hand rack with undercut start. After pulling hard start, the climb relents to a fun grade 12 on great rock. No anchors at present.

Surmount pyramidal blocks to the left of chopping block then up face passing to bolts to small alcove under roof, continue up face passing two more bolts to DBB. Small wires and cams to #1 To supplement bolts essential

Start at low roof, just right of ES. Stick clip first bolt near lip. Up corner and traverse right under roof to mantle Past second bolt then up left side of buttress with wires and cams to #3 through fern, passing historical piton en way. When level with top of buttress step right to Careless Fingernicker anchor.

Start as for DMG first bolt, but go direct, steeply passing 3 more FHs to join finger to hand crack to pedestal. Then up middle of buttress following intermittent cracks through 2 rooflets. Solid protection with single rack from micro cams to #2, and many wires from large RP size up( offsets useful). Same anchors on ledge as ExSlovenian. Easily toproped after doing that route.

Start 5m left of the the No Trachyte for old Men corner. Up wall, through roof and up to the undercut block passing 5 bolts. A short section of technical jambs and laybacks gains the perfect hands corner, above which a cam protected wall, leads up and right to double bolt anchors. Caution: 70m rope needed to lower or double ropes to rappel.

A perfect right leaning splitter crack

The buttress just left off Strugglers Lament. A pleasant jug haul, choosing your own adventure! FA was done solo: recommend to bring gear, slings over horns, medium cams & wires. 2 pitches

Up the obvious holds on the main rock

Head up the crack making your way to top of rock

P1 20 m 23 As for Aslan pitch 1, belay on ledge. P2 25 m 24. Start Aslan pitch 2 but exit stemming box on left and take crack to left of Aslan corner.

Stand start below obvious mantle jug. Set feet and punch high. A committing, balancy finish which may demand shin pads.

Stand start. Up crimpy features to a committing pebbly top out.

Obvious fine and fused vertical line to the R of other described routes. Stand start on low footer, up delicate crimps and crack.

Stand start R of detached boulder on obvious feet. Undercling, jam, and layback your way to freedom.

Technical stemming corner past 2 bolts to the widening crack, taking everything from a 00 C3 to a #4 Camalot, step right to anchors as for Ponzie Scheme

Orange wall with small column to roof where you head left to DBB. #1, #0.75 cams under roof

The next open book corner right of Meritorious. Has chain anchors at top. Scarce gear in middle section. Probably done by Anthony Brennan. Brushed in 2019