Routes as trad in New South Wales and ACT

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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 1,000 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Northern Rivers Urbenville Battery Hill
14 A Bug's Life

Squash it! This was Grant's first (and only?) new route. 6m L of CB. Up easily to crescent shape corner (small wires, small and medium cams). Leave crack on exposed move to ledge (FH). Boldly over ledges above to DBBM. Worth the effort if you’re homesick for Kangaroo Point or you carried in some pro and must use it no matter what!

FA: Grant LeLeve & Darrin Carter, 1999

Mixed 20m, 1
10 Positively Terminal

Tricked into a solo by Sandbag Sam. Up wall just R of tree with large leaves about 15m L of the two pines. At top of wall trend L to start of R leading ramp. Up this to wall 3m from top. Straight up wall. No pro. "Why did you do that?" "Cause I’m stupid."

FA: Mark Churchill

Trad 20m
Northern Rivers Urbenville The Crown
21 The James Scott Memorial Diet

Follow the system of corners up and step L on to slab, passing BR's to CB.(BR's, SLCD's, wires)

Start: Apparently pretty damn hard. Climb arête L of large tree, which is in turn L of a large fallen tree and stump hole.

FA: Mark Plenderlieth & Alistair Byrom

Trad 40m
19 Sceptre

A pleasant mixed route following the line of least resistance.

Start: From large stump hole move up slab about 5m to dish and a single BR belay (If using a 50m rope, use a sling to clip into bolt as leader will need all the rope to get to first CB).

  1. 50m (19) From dish head towards orange overhang and a step to the R on to slab heading for short, prominent corner past two BR\'s to CB.

  2. 45m (18) Head up corner following BR's to top CB.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

Trad 95m, 2
17 Foreign Accent Syndrome

Head up L side of hanging block to flake up L side of block to bolt belay. (BR's & SLCD's)

Start: Several metres L of a broken corner with a large stump and a fallen tree, about 20m R of stump hole.

FA: Mark Plenderlieth & Ian Harrison

Trad 25m
19 Texas Chainsaw Massacre

Start: Directly up from broken stump.

  1. 25m (19) Up R side of overhang to tree root and then up past three BR's to CB. A fall on the crux could serve you up on the slab - take care.

  2. 45m (19) Continue up through two headwalls passing 15 hangers along the way. Remeber your long draws and/or use two ropes.

Ross Ernst, Colin Carstens 18/10/2008

FA: Ian Harrison, Mark Plenderlieth (p1), Ross Ernst & Colin Carstens (p2)

Mixed 25m, 2, 18
18 Slip-Sceptre linkup

Traverses left following the upwards trending overlap. Mind some loose blocks in the middle.

Start: Start at the anchors at the top of Slip.

Trad 30m
18 Gearbox Gastro

Quite testing. 3m R of 'Slapp'. Up slab passing two BR's to large SLCD placement and BR. Up steep section passing a FH (crux) to overlap, and on to CB.

(BR's, FH's & SLCD's)

FA: Andrew Horchner

Mixed 25m, 4
17 Slither

Solid at the grade, but excellent. Up slab clipping FH's to obvious triangular tooth. Once up steepness and at the overlap, head L to lower-off at top of Gearbox Gastro. FH's and cams.

FA: Alistair Byrom, Ken Cox & R. Byrom

Trad 25m
17 Unknown 2
  1. 30m (13) As for Easement.

  2. 20m? (17?) Move R from the belay and instead of trending back L toward the steep wall as per the 22, follow the line of FH's R into the corner, then out R and on R-wards.

FA: Probably Pete Schmidt, 1996

Trad 50m, 2
17 Treddle

Quite varied. This climb starts 3m L of the top of the small ridge about 20m R of Easement. Climb up slab heading L to a vegetated corner and FH. Up slab through branches of squiggly gum to blunt arête. Up arête to ledge. Off ledge and up to CB past small wire placements.

FA: Ken Cox & Mark Plenderlieth

Trad 30m
15 Wasted Days and Wasted Nights
  1. 35m (15) At top of ridge head up gentle slab to obvious corner. Up corner to where it eases and trends L. Ignore this (and the FH out L). Instead, step R into smaller corner and up to rap anchor at good stance.

  2. 30m (15) From chains head about 4m R and up water mark passing several BR's to steeper rock (FH's). Surmount this then up corner (ignoring unnecessary retrobolts) to lower-off just above she-oak.

FA: Ken Cox & Alistair Byrom

Trad 65m, 2
16 Wasted Days and Wasted Nights LHV
  1. As for p1 of Wasted Days and Wasted Nights

  2. Directly up from the belay following the line of FH's up the smooth slab, trending slightly L to chain belay.

FA: Peter Schmidt & James Fisher, 1996

Trad 20m, 2
17 Unknown 4

First route up dirty wall past a few BR's.

FA: Unknown, 1996

Trad 20m
22 Penile Warts

Start at warty tree. Up corner to small tree stump. Clip BR on L then up to second BR and traverse to the L. Up past another two BR's and a small wire over the lip if you feel it is required, then up to chain belay.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

Trad 22m
20 Imaginary Invalid

Start at the left arête of the above mentioned slab. Head up to the large flake past two BR's. The third BR is out on the L on top of the flake, a medium cam is required out to the R. Follow the line of least resistance past seven BR's to chain belay.

FA: Alistair Byrom, Ken Cox & M. Byrom

Trad 45m
18 Flatulence

Up slab past SLCD slot and across to the R (long BR). Make your way back L under roof past nose (big SLCD) and up to the big hole (BR). From here zig-zag through break in wall past two BR's. Once on slab, follow breaks to chain belay. (BR's, #2.5 & ~#4 SLCDs & medium wires)

FA: M. Byrom & R. Byrom

Trad 35m
21 Unknown 6

Reputedly good and hard. Great pinches through the overhang. Up the slab heading for the big white stripe on the steep wall up high passing 4 BR's to get there. Climb the steep stain past another BR, then keep going following the bolts.

FA: Andrew Horchner

18 Wasp

Up almost horizontal flake to natural gear in corner. Up slab to BR. Traverse L to corner crack, an #11 hex can be fiddled into hole. Thence to the R and up crack to CB.

FA: Ken Cox, R. Byrom & Alistair Byrom

Trad 45m
22 Flakes Away

Start as for Wasp. Up to ledge at 5m, then up to BR. Continue up past small cam and another four BR's. From fifth BR trend L to chain belay.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

Trad 45m
16 Streak

10m R. Apparently the streak up the vague L-facing corner has been done without bolts. Meander up to tree belay..

Trad 15m
13 Ugly Duckling

The black, L-trending wide crack up the slab ending at a tree belay.

Trad 20m
Northern Rivers Urbenville Vesuvius
23 Blowing Smoke

The splitter crack - all trad, starting at the huge, deep pockets just off the ground. Bouldery start. Cool roof to negotiate at ⅔ height. Some friable rock above here, but opportunity to get lots of gear in. Bolted rap station. Take wires and a double rack of cams to #4 BD size.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 8 Feb 2014

Trad 25m
Northern Rivers Mt. Warning Wollumbin Shield North West Face (Main Wall)
18 Crazy Moon

Crazy Moon 240m 18

  1. 40m 13 Hard start moves lead to easy angled slab. Straight up through spear lilly ledge to next slab.

  2. 40m 18 Up slight groove in slab 15m right of right facing vegetated corner. Knifeblade at 5m, then trend right through hard unprotected moves to more gear in narrow vertical crack. Continue straight up before traversing left to base of left facing corner and fig belay.

  3. 10m 15 Left facing corner capped by vegetated crack. Block belay.

  4. 55m 18 Traverse right to hanging block (fixed piton) then up run out slab to horizontal overlap. Trend left to belay at left land side of 2m high roof.

  5. 45m 17 Step left and up left facing corner then out left onto slab. Up through spear lilly ledge to next slab.

  6. 50m 17 Left to arete on right side of ephemeral waterfall. Up clean rock until possible to step right onto right leaning slab. Trend right past loose blocks to ledge and spear lilly belay. At this point the good climbing ends and best option would be to rap to eastern side of watercourse and descend via gully. If summit fever calls, the following 2 pitches get you to the top. A cleaner option would be to head left across the watercourse, through a spear lilly ledge to nice looking slabs. It looked possible to thread a line through some scattered spear lillys to the top.

  7. 60m V2 (V is a proposed vegetation grade) Trend right through steep spear lilly horror show to belay beneath next rock.

  8. 30m 12 Over unprotected rock buttress to vegetated niche then trend right on slab to ridge. At this point you are on the ridge that forms the eastern end of the Wollumbin Shield. A narrow ridge with bits of scrub and rock lead for about 250m to the ridgetop. Follow upper ridge to descent gully to west.

FA: Brad Carmady & Phil Box, 2007

Trad 240m, 9
25 Escension

A big wall adventure in a real jungle. Epic access, some loose rock and wet weather make this one of the harder long routes in Australia. This route was originally aided at A2+ 17, then freed shortly after at 25. The route description is for the aid ascent. There was once a track cut through the thick jungle to the base of the wall, but this is most likely long gone. The walk-in was 3+ hours with the track. Without - expect to double that time or more. You cannot see the cliff until you are standing right under it.

Aid Ascent Gear Required: 2x60m ropes, double rack of wires + cams (up to size #5 SLCD), Slider nuts, 2 x regular skyhooks, 1 size each of short knifeblade pins + a few lost arrows, no bolt brackets are required - all bolts have fixed hangers.

There is much loose rock still on the route. From pitches 5-7 the route weaves around some seriously big widow makers. The pitches in this area are short so that the belayer is safe from falling rock. All of the belays, apart from the top of pitch 7, are hanging or semi hanging. The only area suitable for an uncomfortable bivi on the wall would be the vegetated ledge midway through pitch 8. Rock quality varies along the route with the rock improving in hardness above pitch 6.

  1. 15m (8) Traverse diagonally left from spear-lillys across very easy slab to crack. Up for a few moves to single ring-bolt belay under bulging roof. FA Phil Box.

  2. 35m (A2 14) Aid past 2 bolts to gain pocket and then crack. Up this overhung crack to stance. Continue up wide crack to DBB. FA Phil Box.

  3. 15m (15) Slab up and left for ten metres, then back right to belay at spear-lilly and DBB. FFA Neil Monteith

  4. 30m (A2) Up short slab to corner and FH. Up and right onto stance then bat-hook and bolt left two metres to crack. Up this onto slab and DBB. FA Nick McKinnon

  5. 20m (A2+ 14) Straight up slab to climb thin cracks. Trend left and up blocky hand crack. When this blanks out aid up then move right to bolt, bat hook and finally free up to DBB. FA Neil Monteith

  6. 20m (A2 16) 'Phil's Traverse' - Climb directly right to below overhanging left leaning ramp. Aid through overhang with bolt and pull over this to spear-lilly. Climb wonderful hand and fist crack for ten metres to DBB. FA Phil Box

  7. 25m (A2+ 12) Aid thin seams off belay for three metres to super hand crack. When this finishes go right through bulges then easily up and left to DBB on good ledge. FA Nick McKinnon

  8. 40m (15) Free climb on slabby ground up and right below overhang. Back left and up hand-crack then onto bushy ledge. Up a few more metres to DBB. FFA Neil Monteith

  9. 50m (17) A rope stretcher! Straight up to gain left leading crack. Lay back up this then onto slab with bolt. After this run it out heading slightly left for ages to arrive at last DBB. A further 100m of slabby vegetated rock is above this. Unless you like evil bush-bashing, it's recommended to rap off here. FFA Neil Monteith

Descent: Pitch 9 to 8 50m Pitch 8 to 7 35m Pitch 7 to 4 50m Pitch 4 to 2 40m Pitch 2 to 1 40m Pitch 1 to ground 60m+ (walk off possible if slab is not wet)

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn & Phil Box, 2001

FA: Phil Box, Neil Monteith, Nick McKinnon & Will Dameron, 2001

Trad 260m, 9
25 Escension free description
  1. 7 - The approach slabs and traverse to get to the climb proper.

  2. 24 - perhaps, hard mantling layaway using small arete and footer under roof to gain a respite on a decent ledge for a rest before launching up through a series of right leaning overhung handcrack breaks and bulges. Cameron Fairbairn 15/9/02

  3. 16 - slab to spear lilly belay, start off from the top of pitch 2 and go left around and underneath the spear lilly belay hanging blocks.

  4. 25 - Start from spear lilly belay, head right up and across slab into the obvious corner, reach out for a fabulous jug on the mantle ledge, swing up onto ledge from whence the hard small traverse left starts, clip bolt and then continue left to establish oneself in obvious crack, up directly to belay. Cameron Fairbairn 15/9/02

  5. 20 - From belay trend left up blocky ramp being careful not to get sucked in too far left, continue up through the first easy system and then back to the right to find 2 widely spaced bolts, equalise these for a killer belay to observe the shenanigans of the roof coming up next.

  6. 23 - Clip the high bolt of the belay before dropping down low and plugging a couple of aliens in out wide along the traverse line on almost non existent feet , drop a bit lower for good feet and then climb up directly under roof bolt. Yeah it`s goey hey, get on out there through that roof, campus up on rugositys to stand on the lip and then swim through the spear lilly to plug wide gear in crack behind lilly, continue up wide dirty crack to bomber anchor. Back this anchor up with a couple of cams as there is the distinct possibility of a climber falling direct on to this anchor due to the next section being so thin and poor gear direct off the belay. Cameron Fairbairn 15/9/02

  7. 24 - Work those aliens and wires in baby and hold on for the ride of your life fortunately this thin seam is not overhung unlike the hand crack which this seam leads to so test that gear bucko, continue up the overhung handcrack to where it blanks out to find yourself at a walrus ledge containing thin fingers and crimpers, belly flop on to that sloper walrus ledge to find yourself with one more block to get over before arriving at a fabulously comfortable belay complete with garden and at least one square foot of space to stand on, it's practically a bivvy ledge. Cameron Fairbairn 15/9/02

  8. 17 - Skirt right to skyline then trend left, take care to talk to your belayer as anchors are a direct rope fall/abseil above Pitch 8 anchors. By talking to your belayer you should be able to orient his voice to the line of fall as this slab can suck you in way left.

  9. 16 - We did change out the Fixe hangers and leaver biners to Double rap ring Fixe hangers.

  10. There is a possibility of adding a further pitch to this route to top out.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn & Phil Box, 2002

Trad 330m, 9
19 Cloud Catcher

Access to the start of this climb is via the approach slabs for Escension then aid and climb the first pitch of Escension. first pitch of Escension is now A1. 17.

  1. 30m (18) Phil Box (rope solo) At first pitch rap anchor of escension step right behind bushes and into a fist size crack. Up easily behind the spear lilly to be confronted with the first steep slab of the new route. Clip piton and traverse right along a good ledge to the weakness on right hand end of ledge. Directly up the weakness and onto low angle slab. Up slab to steep wall. Look for water runnels for protection up high. Follow these to corner and double bolt belay.

  2. 35m (19) Phil Box, Brad Carmady, Josh Combes. From belay, traverse right for aprox. 3 metres and up obvious weakness. Step onto low angle slab and then step back left to directly over belay. Up Arete with poor gear to protect crux to gain a very good piece of protection. From here go directly up until one is in line with an obvious large ledge and spear lilly. Traverse about 6 metres right past the spear lilly to Fixe Ring Chain Belay on the wall at this ledge.

  3. 30m (17) Brad Carmady Josh Combes, Phil Box. Traverse 4 metres right, then up and awkwardly step right onto slab. Up slab towards roof then traverse left under overlap to natural belay in obvious crack in right facing corner.

  4. 40m (16) Brad Carmady, Phil Box. Step up overlap then traverse left along spear lily ledge before heading up slabs left of large hanging block. Up wide layback then up to steep overlap before going slightly right on slabs to large spear lily ledge. Tree belay on right hand side. This could be a great bivy ledge if benightment a possibility.

  5. 30m (16) Phil Box, Brad Carmady. Straight up from tree belay using the large crack formed by a tremendous gendarme. At top of gendarme trend right across steep slab (orange Alien size pro protects these moves) to corner and crack system. Trend back left on crack system, up behind spikey bush and into short chimney and on up the obvious crack system. Belay before obvious crack peters out.

  6. 50m (16)Brad Carmady, Phil Box. Step right and up through groove. Back left following line of weakness through slabs to under large blocks. Head straight up on stepped slabs to just under line of spear lillys. Either traverse left and up or straight through overhangs to poor spear lilly belay.

  7. (3) Phil Box, Brad Carmady. 40 metres of spear lilly swimming to gain walk down ridge. Walk down to the right keeping the top of cliffline visible more or less. Encounter the obvious saddle and turn right to walk down obvious descent gully back to camp.

FA: Phil Box, Brad Carmady & Josh Combes, 2006

Trad 250m
22 A Pod o Lips Now

Start is high on the vegetated slabs on the far right hand end of the Shield. Finding the start is the crux I am sure but if one were to head over to the descent gully then work back say 50 metres and then head somewhat up then that is an approximation of where to go.The start is also about 80 metres up the vegetated apron. there is an obvious chimney on the wall proper.

  1. 22 40m (direct) - Up chimney following crack system past a bolt and piton. Trad belay.

    Alternate: 15 45m (off to the right) - Up chimney then cut to the right to a small ledge, then veer back left to the crack system passing a spearlilly along the way. trad belay.

  2. 15 40m - Continue following crack system to double rap station.

  3. 18 55m - Continue following crack system past more spear lillies and a small overlap that is easier than it looks. Belay off spear lillies and a small tree.

  4. 16 55m - Continue following crack system through exposed section with good gear. Continue past more spear lillies.

  5. 5 30m - Scramble through increasing vegetation to top.

FFA: Phil Box & Colin Carstens., 2008

Trad 220m
Northern Rivers Rainbow Rock
19 epic deception

dagerous climb. poorly protected. a bit run out between most bolts. Lots loose rock and busting holds. Almost no protection from 100m,(bolts stop with no warning at 100m,halfway up 3rd pitch. anchor of to right hard to find) climb obviously un-finished.Possible micro-cam placement about 10m-15m after bolts stop. Lots of loose rock, dirty. Had to anchor on to bolders, ran out of rope (50m). loose bolt plates on second pitch. Holds break most of the way up. 4 pitch climb. 1st-40m, 2nd-35m, 3rd-50m, 4th-25m. Only decent path through thick bush, down south side...

FFA: john, 2000

Mixed 150m, 4, 12
14 invisible touch

small crack line on lower wall

FFA: Za Utopia, 24 Dec 2012

Trad 8m
Northern Rivers Boonoo Boonoo Falls
14 R Belvedere Route

Climbs the left side of the falls.

FA: Neill Lamb, Julie Henry & Frank Theos

Trad 180m
Northern Rivers Surf Rock
18 eagle fly

5m right of TB. Up corner to small roof. To TB chain

FFA: Za Utopia, 30 Dec 2012

Trad 15m
18 just for fun

Start 2m right EF straight up over small roof.

FFA: Za Utopia, Darius Utopia & Phoenix, 29 Nov 2012

Trad 15m
15 two believe

One bolt at the top. start 2m right of JFF. up slab to corner then left to chain.

FFA: Za Utopia & Be Utopia., 27 Dec 2012

Mixed 15m, 1
19 moonlight drive

10m right of TB. up wall to roof, then onto slab wall to finish. top out.

Mixed 23m, 2
15 Sacred Union

Climb 2m left of BA, up slightly steeper face upto nose with sharp edges... use rope protector when abseiling in.

FA: Za Utopia, 23 Mar 2013

Trad 16m
13 Break Away

2m L of Back in Black. Follow Crack line at the top section. Some loose rock at the top.

FA: Za Utopia & Darius Utopia, 23 Mar 2013

Trad 16m
15 Back in Black

Next climbs access from out the end of headland.2 m left of EJ about 15m right of moonlight drive.Climb big black slab wall

FFA: Za Utopia & Maxium, 2 Aug 2013

Trad 15m
13 Eagle Jets

start 10m R of MD. Up wall. Pro not great, but do able.

FA: 29 Jan 2013

FFA: Za Utopia, 15 Mar 2013

Trad 12m
16 outsiders

start inbetween EJ & CL. up slab wall over the nose

FA: Za Utopia, 20 Mar 2013

Trad 12m
14 Jupiter Maxiumus

start 3m R of EJ. up arete though chimney.

FA: Za Utopia, 29 Jan 2013

FFA: Za Utopia & Maxium, 2 Aug 2013

Trad 12m
17 Into the mystical

start on wall under roof on the corner. Up wall over corner of roof.

FA: Za Utopia, 11 Feb 2013

Trad 14m
20 Dragon teeth

start 2m R of ITM up small wall over roof. Sharp edges cut through my 11mm rope when top roping...

FA: Za Utopia, 20 Mar 2013

Trad 15m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Dusk Wall
14 Medicine Wheel

Far right side. Start 4 R of O climb up corner. Anchor long slings 2 boulders.

FFA: Za Utopia, Be Utopia & Darius Utopia, 1 Apr 2016

Trad 9m
15 Rock People

2m R of O.start right of blackboy. Small run out at the end. last break too dirty for gear. Anchor tree and boulder. Long slings.

FFA: Za Utopia & Darius Utopia, 1 Apr 2016

Trad 9m
16 Othila

Middle of wall . Start above blackboy climb up to base of tree. Tree anchor

FFA: Za Utopia & Be Utopia, 28 Mar 2016

Trad 9m
15 Eagle Clan

Left of Othila.

FA: Za/Be Utopia

Trad 9m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Twilight Zone
17 riding in bliss

6m R of updl. Start above small cave, up to vertical crack, then another smaller cave, over this to ledge. Tree anchor.climb

FFA: Za Utopia & Be Utopia, 13 May 2016

Trad 12m
17 Uzi Packing Drug Lords

Up Wall on Trad Gear

Trad 12m
14 Dr Farquhar's Space Age Sleeping Vessel

Up flack and through bulge

Trad 12m
15 Carnage At The Mouse Machine

climbs the right leaning orange crack

Trad 12m
13 When Twighlight Turns To Dark

the corner crack on left of wall

FA: J. Gracie & T. Hill, 1996

Trad 15m
16 35 Degrees

Up short corner and wall through overlap and up to anchors.

Mixed 15m, 5
23 The New Oriental Chinese Restaurant

Up Crack and wall on trad gear.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 1998

Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Wild Dog
21 Moon Shadow

Start on face and cnr crack below first BR and fig tree. Can solo to first BR. Follow BR and crack line to top. (Don't use tree) 5 BR's plus SLCD. Tree Belay Single BR for directional.

FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996

Mixed 20m, 5
19 Adder

5m right of Moon Shadow. Follow crack to top. Finish to the right of tree. Crux at top. Most of the climb is 16-18 but the top move is a little scary and is about 19. Natural Pro and belay.

FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996

Trad 20m
23 Sting

1m right of 'Adder'. Up face to tree. 3BRs plus SLCD's. Tree Belay.

FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996

Mixed 15m, 3
18 Monkey Boots

The arete 5/6m right of 'Adder'. Start around on the right face. Use brass offset or RP past first BR. A little contrived but generally follow arete and BR's. Beware Chossy rock. 5 BR's plus 2 natural. DB Belay.

FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996

Mixed 19m, 5
16 Stoned

The second obvious crack to the right of 'Monkey Boots'. Crack to tree then Cnr crack to top. Beware loose rocks. Natural Pro and Belay.

FFA: Bruce Jones, 1996

Trad 15m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Lama Land
14 Cruisy Susi

Super fun flake/crack up the middle of Lama Land. Bolt belay.

FA: Mike Klingensmith & Brian Cork, Jul 2016

Trad 10m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Strong Room
19 Spanking Monkeys

Short corner crack then up through breaks to top, natural gear.

FA: J. Langston, 1997

Trad 10m
20 Thin Red Line

4m right of 'Hilti Hijackers', and around the corner on the East facing wall. Up to obvious small ledge then up seemingly empty wall, finish at anchors for MDS. 2 BRs

FA: Tristan Ricketts, 2000

Mixed 12m, 2
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox The Alcove
24 Kanoon

The corner at the right hand end. Up the corner on natural gear, clip bolt before huge move. Head left to anchors.

FA: Jeff Gracie, 1997

Mixed 12m, 4
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Narcissus Roof
21 Narcissus Raining Down

It’s the only route on the wall. Up past 2 bolts and a piece of gear to roof, and last bolt to lower off

FA: Ben Christian, 1996

Mixed 10m, 3
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Goodvibes Wall
15 Corky's Crack

Up the nice corner crack, step left around the roof and then tend right to the bolts at the lip.

FA: Brian Cork, 1997

Trad 15m
16 Stealth Mode

About 2m right of Corkys Crack. Up the wall past 2 bolts and then through the rooflet on trad gear. Anchor bolts at the lip. A little bit spicy.

FA: Brian Cork & Toby Holmes, 16 Jun 2012

Mixed 15m, 2
17 Ally Cat and the Puppet Show

Obvious Corner Crack. Up into the juggy corner, around the roof and up a nice hand crack to a tree.

FA: Brian Cork, 2011

Trad 15m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Pooh Wall
17 Eeor's Tail

1m right of TM. Natural gear (cams) in breaks, 1 fixed hanger, finish at rings above TM

FA: Martin Cloonan & Tristan Ricketts, 2001

Mixed 12m, 1
14 Paint Spot

3m right of WTPGHH around where there is a dish like depression half way up.

FA: Bruce Jones & Clarkson Walter, 1998

Trad 14m
14 Brush Strokes

1m right of PS

FA: Bruce Jones & Clarkson Walter, 1998

Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox The Motherlode

Project on the left side of the ML. This route involves a series of roofs with steep walls in between. Going to take some serious work to unlock its sequences

12 Shadow

The corner crack, all natural gear, traverse right at the top to join the anchors of TB.

FA: Toby Holmes, 2009

Trad 12m
16 Rabid

Natural crack split through blank slab to double ring belay

FA: David Wagland, 2009

Trad 12m
17 Hair of the Dog

20 metres around the corner from R. Natural gear, 2 large cams are useful. Offwidth start leads to small grassy ledge. Over bulge then traverse right and up gully. Top out for tree belay.

FA: Toby Holmes, 2009

17 Hairy Dog

Start 5 meters right of HOTD up finger crack in corner topped by what appears to be a loose block (actually solidly wedged) then traverse left and join HOTD. Avoids offwidth start.

FA: Toby Holmes, 2009

Trad 20m
21 Sickle

A fantastic obvious crack line. Horizontal breaks lead to fist jams followed by finger crack to ledge. Small to medium cams and wires.

FA: Rhys Van Gastel & Toby Holmes, 2009

Trad 15m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Sherwood Buttress
15 Our Kind Of Sunday

3m left of Tink Tink.

Climb delicately over horizontal rail feature to horizontal break at 3.5m for first piece of gear. Break takes small, medium cams, then up through flakes and pockets to top out. Small cams and wires near top. Natural belay.

FFA: Thomas Gissing & Luciana Albuquerque

Trad 8m
16 Tink Tink

Farthest left bolted climb on cliff. 1 BR and medium wires. Natural belay

FA: Danny Rose

Mixed 8m, 1
17 Irish Dorks

2m right of TT. 1BR, Medium wires, Natural belay.

FA: Danny Rose

Mixed 8m, 1
18 Maddened Monk

3 BR's and NP

FA: Bruce Jones

Mixed 8m, 3
19 Exit Right Pursued By Bear

Start under obvious crack on left side of face. Up wall past 1 BR then natural gear to top out

FA: Danny Rose

Mixed 8m, 1
18 Monks Alive

3 BR's & NP at start

FA: Bruce Jones

Mixed 10m, 3
16 Love And Marriage

2m right of the left arete of the open book corner. Vere left above overhang. Finish left of tree. Natural Pro, tree belay.

FA: Danny Rose

Trad 8m
13 Divorce

1m right of ‘Love and Marriage’. Up obvious chunky route to right of tree Natural pro, tree belay

Trad 8m
15 Ethan's Tears

1m right of ‘Divorce’ upon delicate flaky holds. 1BR, crux past first bolt. Natural belay

FA: Danny Rose

Mixed 8m, 1
18 Disbelief

1m right of corner. Face climb. 1BR and small wire. Bring medium cams for belay.

FA: Danny Rose & Shiloh Rose

Mixed 8m, 1
23 Parting Gesture

3m right of ‘Disbelief’. Excellent technical climbing. 2BR’s and small wires near top. DBB belay 4m back.

FA: Danny Rose & Bruce Jones

Mixed 8m, 2
18 King Billie Coke Bottle

Start as for ‘Parting Gesture’. Traverse right to arete then up pastdubious gear to DBB. Excellent top rope route

FA: Danny Rose

Trad 8m
17 Enema Tree

2m right of ‘KBCB’. Good climbing poor protection. Better to tope rope. DBB.

FA: Danny Rose

Trad 8m
18 Cheese Cutter

2m right of ‘Enema Tree’. Nice climbing on good but hard to find natural gear through small overhang up face to left of arete. DBB.

FA: Danny Rose

Trad 8m
16 Sally The Race Car Driver

2m crack on west face

FA: M. Kelly

Trad 8m
21 Birthday Suit

Gotta do it !! Blunt arete approx 10m to the right off ‘Cheese Cutter’. Start on ledge, very tricky start takes you past 2BR’s and small cam to tree belay.

FA: Danny Rose

Mixed 8m, 2

6m right of Birthday Suit. Up following the series of shallow, flaring seams. The feet are quite spaced apart and therefore consists of many powerful moves from very high heel hooks with minuscule gastons and sidepulls in the seams supported by an array of similarly sized sidepulls, crimps and slopers. It is very sustained and will probably be graded somewhere between 25 - 27.. At 3/4 height the climb eases into a naturally protected flake which leads to a break and a cruisy head wall. Needs 2 bolts lower down.

TradProject 12m
23 Sherrif

Approx 8m right of Birthday Suite. Left traverse start then up pretty concaved orange wall passing 2BR's and natural pro up top.

FA: Danny Rose

Mixed 8m, 2
19 Denali And Sequoia

5m right of ‘Sherriff’. Crack climb. Tree belay

FA: Marty Scmidt

Trad 8m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Hero Wall
16 Release The Hounds

The Obvious trad corner crack in centre of wall. Up to ledge and anchors above FSA

FFA: Brian Cork, 2011

Trad 12m
25 Synchronicity

Climb flake and arete to get to 5m horizontal roof. Fire our roof near finger crack to anchors over lip.

FFA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2011

Trad 12m
17 Conjunctivitis

All Trad up crack and left at top to anchor for TST

FFA: Toby Holmes, 2012

Trad 10m
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Deliverance Area
18 Super Grovel
1 16
2 18
3 16

Possibly the worst, documented route in the Coffs Area. An adventure route that is the antithesis of the neighboring sport climbs. About 30 m past the White Wall, before you get to the main Deliverance Area.

  1. 15m. Delicately up the orange, chossy, corner crack to the base of the chimney.

  2. 15m. Struggle and stem your way up the flairing off-width/chimney on reasonable rock until you reach the overhanging soil. Detour left around the arete onto poorly protected slopers and bushes before crawling across a ledge back into the main crack system.

  3. 5m. Enjoy a surprisingly nice stemming crack to the summit.

FA: Brian Cork & Daniel Hazell, 21 May 2016

Trad 35m, 3
19 Sanction of the Victim

Climb 4 to 5m through slightly reachy and mildly overhung section until small arete is reached . Move up this for a few metres and then move into corner , use corner and wall until crack is reached then up crack to lower off chains

FA: Marc Bailey lead Jen Marshall 2nd, 2011

Mixed 32m, 4

Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 1,000 routes.