Routes in New South Wales and ACT

5m right of Abandonment Issues. Follow left leaning line of 5 FH’s past flake and pockets. Shared belay with Abandonment Issues.

Start 3m to the R of original. 2 FH's then up and L into Abandonment Issues.

Steep start then nice slabby continuation.

Start 5m left of AI. Climb up past approx 6 FHs to DBB.

Start 15m left of Pink Bongo Bunny. Bouldery start to first FH. Continue up wall on easier holds for 3 FH's to dished area below headwall. Take a deep breath and blast up headwall for another 3 FH's to DBB. Some broken holds, might be a grade or two harder

3m L of Amped Up is a line of 8 FH's. Thin holds through to 2nd FH. Then easier moves to base of headwall. Crimp your way over double bulge while keeping an eye out for the crucial jugs.

Great, long warm up. Climb through the crux in a corner at just above half height then easy climbing to anchor with fixed biners. Can be done with a 60m rope.

Climb ramp on R of notch to FH on bulge at 4m. Up beside white streak past 3 FH to stance L of "Cat in Nine" corner. Step up L on short vertical wall with ace buckets (FH) to long slab (FH). Chain belay on headwall shared with "Live Contact".

Start on the right of the alcove and follow 3 hangers to steep wall (crux). 4 more hangers lead to chain belay.

Directly up slab L of notch past 4 FHs. Optional gear in pockets, too.

4m right of "Don't Trust the Bunny". Up past the bunny holes to 1st FH. Straight up crimping your way past a further 6 FHs to chains.

6m R of Yellow Brick Road. Up R of the rock orchards, through two steep sections on good holds. Thin, sustained climbing to clip 4 then easier to the top. 7 FHs to chains.

14m L of notch. Generic, but clean slab climbing past 3 black FHs to the base of bulge, which sports the final 2 FHs. This overhung section hosts a vital two-finger pocket and makes for quite a stunning conclusion. Finish at rap station at small stance. Watch out for ants in the pockets.

R of Ginsu. Climbs the steep blank wall with the "snail trail" and 5 or 6 FHs, using very few very small crimps. Thin is the word.

2016: The 'snail trail' mark no longer exists - but you can't miss the route. Blankest, meanest bit of cliff that has bolts on it.

6m L of Yellow Brick Road beneath a hard, smooth wall. 2 Bolt runners in the first third (hard to see). Then four FHs to a chain belay.

2m L of Ginsu. Climbs the steeper section of the wall following 6 or 7 camouflaged FHs and a few crimps.

Sustained thin moves between 1st & 4th hangers give way to easier ground. Lay off the huge bollard to 5th hanger. Easy to chains. Solid 17.

1m R of flake. Up through pockets (optional gear) to slab and the first of 5 black FHs. Onto steep section with big holds (FH). Mount wall and pockety moves to reachy FH. Run it out a little to the security of a massive bucket below the 4th FH. Over bulge to last FH and a tricky mantle to hit the chains. Quite run out, could do with extra bolts to make it safe?

2m L of the flake. Up on good holds (4 FHs) to lumpy arête. Nice exposure past 3 FHs to DBB. Rebolted in 2011 by SCQ

4m L of flake. Up the R-leaning weakness past 3 FHs to a stance - quite run out between clips 2 & 3. Step L (FH) and up steep section (FH) to easy climbing (FH) to chains. Rebolted in 2011 by SCQ.

The route is a waterfall after rain.

Squash it! This was Grant's first (and only?) new route. 6m L of CB. Up easily to crescent shape corner (small wires, small and medium cams). Leave crack on exposed move to ledge (FH). Boldly over ledges above to DBBM. Worth the effort if you’re homesick for Kangaroo Point or you carried in some pro and must use it no matter what!

The following climbs are on the second face approximately 100m along the track. 5m R of small knee-high ledge (former flake). Was pretty dangerous, now rebolted and an extra bolt and anchor added. 3 FHs.

Up BRs of "Flat and Useless", then go high L to last BR on "Eff-A-Reddy". Continue L to last on ASSOSSISS, then up to belay. Could have been the original intent for FU?

Start above small knee-high ledge (former detached flake). Clip FH and launch onto wall. Over bump (FH) and follow jugs (FH) trending R. Then up to shared lower-off.

Great learner lead. Pockets 5m R of Itchy. Direct line staying R of runnel past 4 FHs to shared lower-off.

A line of 5 FH's to the R of Itchy. Thin moves to 2nd FH and continue over bulge on good holds.

Great learner lead. 1m R of the two pines are 3 pockets that look like Mickey Mouse. Up to pockets and on to next FH. Crux moves to and over the next FH lead to jugs and vertical section (FH). Over this to good chain belay on back wall of ledge.

The crux provides some interesting crimping up an arete.

The line of 5 FHs behind the pine tree. Finish at DBB.

6m left of Scratchy is a line of 5 FHs to DBB. Boulder up to 1st hanger from L and mantle onto ledge using a little muscle power. Continue up wall on good holds staying L of 3rd hanger.

3m L of Candle Power. Up short steep wall on good holds. Good warm up or for newer leaders. 3 FHs to chains.

Tricked into a solo by Sandbag Sam. Up wall just R of tree with large leaves about 15m L of the two pines. At top of wall trend L to start of R leading ramp. Up this to wall 3m from top. Straight up wall. No pro. "Why did you do that?" "Cause I’m stupid."

Scramble up short wall as for NASATV to large ledge. At RH end of ledge there is a FH at chest height. Belay from here. Up face to 2 large holes passing a FH (wasps have been removed). Continue up wall passing 3 FHs to chain belay shared with LV.

Start 4m left of NR at RH end of large ledge. Can belay from 1st bolt of NR. Follow line of 5 FHs to shared chains with NR.

Scramble 6m up to large ledge. 1st FH below large hole (wasps removed). Continue through bulge passing 3 more FHs to chain belay shared with NASATV. Be warned of ants at 2/3 height.

Scramble 6m up to large ledge and clip FH on LH end of ledge at head height. Up easily, staying L of dark stain passing 3 FHs to shared CB with "Electrolyte".

Follow the system of corners up and step L on to slab, passing BR's to CB.(BR's, SLCD's, wires)

Start: Apparently pretty damn hard. Climb arête L of large tree, which is in turn L of a large fallen tree and stump hole.

A pleasant mixed route following the line of least resistance.

Start: From large stump hole move up slab about 5m to dish and a single BR belay (If using a 50m rope, use a sling to clip into bolt as leader will need all the rope to get to first CB).

1. 50m (19) From dish head towards orange overhang and a step to the R on to slab heading for short, prominent corner past two BR\'s to CB.

2. 45m (18) Head up corner following BR's to top CB.

Head up L side of hanging block to flake up L side of block to bolt belay. (BR's & SLCD's)

Start: Several metres L of a broken corner with a large stump and a fallen tree, about 20m R of stump hole.

Start: Directly up from broken stump.

1. 25m (19) Up R side of overhang to tree root and then up past three BR's to CB. A fall on the crux could serve you up on the slab - take care.

2. 45m (19) Continue up through two headwalls passing 15 hangers along the way. Remeber your long draws and/or use two ropes.

Ross Ernst, Colin Carstens 18/10/2008

One of the most popular routes at urbenville, fine balancy slabbing up rock which has had every edge polished off by the sweaty palms and squirming feet of those who went before.

The obvious upwards continuation from Slip\'s anchors.

Start: Continue up and slightly left from Slip\\'s Anchors through break.

1. 25m (16) Up through break in roof, follow hangers across slab to anchors just short of headwall.

2. 25m (18) Follow line of weakness through headwall with some balancy moves, continue up slab to anchor.

Traverses left following the upwards trending overlap. Mind some loose blocks in the middle.

Start: Start at the anchors at the top of Slip.

Three pitches of pleasant climbing with an interesting crux.

Start: Start by traversing up and right from the anchors of Slip or by heading straight up from the anchor of Slope/Sonoluminescence

1. 20m (15) Follow bolts through corner/weakness (one bolt plate required) approximately 1.5 metres up and 5 metres right of Slip\'s anchor, up slab and corner for a short distance to anchor with huge mild-steel chain hardware.

2. 25m (19) Up shallow corner to obvious steep corner (many FH's). Overcome this and the tricky arête crux move onto slab to reach CB at small tree.

3. 15m (17) Clip FH from ledge and climb the slab above past numerous FH's to tree belay.

Another romp up slab past the L side of a small nose to CB at the top of Slip.

Start: Start at line of hangers a few metres right of Slip

Up R side of small nose past numerous FHs to CB at top of 'Slapp'. Has an interesting bulge at half height.

Off block and follow seam to first BR at five metres. Up slab blipping colts to CB.

Quite testing. 3m R of 'Slapp'. Up slab passing two BR's to large SLCD placement and BR. Up steep section passing a FH (crux) to overlap, and on to CB.

(BR's, FH's & SLCD's)

Solid at the grade, but excellent. Up slab clipping FH's to obvious triangular tooth. Once up steepness and at the overlap, head L to lower-off at top of Gearbox Gastro. FH's and cams.

More good value. About 5m R of Slither. Up slab to a tricky step R and FH. Sweet pockets will see you through the crux steepness. Continue up corner to lower-off.

This climb starts R about 3 metres. Head up crack/corner to vegetated ledge. From here step 2m R onto steeper territory. Follow FH's to a lower-off.

Instead of climbing the crack/corner of Urban Villain climb directly up the slab, passing three FH's below the crux.

Good, but a sandbag at its original grade of 13 if climbed directly. Start about 12m R of Urban Villain, in a shallow V. Climb up the V and step L onto a large ledge, the first BR is clipped from the ledge. From the ledge head up to orange overhang and lower-off. FH's and cams.

1. 40m (22) Start up Easement but move R before chains following FH's up and then L to steep wall. Crank L and up weakness in this steep headwall past numerous FH's to slab then to chain belay.

2. 20m (19) Up slab above past big flake and numerous FH's to tree belay.

1. 30m (13) As for Easement.

2. 20m? (17?) Move R from the belay and instead of trending back L toward the steep wall as per the 22, follow the line of FH's R into the corner, then out R and on R-wards.

Quite varied. This climb starts 3m L of the top of the small ridge about 20m R of Easement. Climb up slab heading L to a vegetated corner and FH. Up slab through branches of squiggly gum to blunt arête. Up arête to ledge. Off ledge and up to CB past small wire placements.

1. 35m (15) At top of ridge head up gentle slab to obvious corner. Up corner to where it eases and trends L. Ignore this (and the FH out L). Instead, step R into smaller corner and up to rap anchor at good stance.

2. 30m (15) From chains head about 4m R and up water mark passing several BR's to steeper rock (FH's). Surmount this then up corner (ignoring unnecessary retrobolts) to lower-off just above she-oak.

1. As for p1 of Wasted Days and Wasted Nights

2. Directly up from the belay following the line of FH's up the smooth slab, trending slightly L to chain belay.

A gooey little thing. This climb goes up the L of the two cracks with a hard start and fiddly placements, ending at Fuck Off Noddy 's chain belay.

Classic and quite sequency. The clean line located in the middle of the buttress, below the R slanting flake ending at a lower-off.

No easier than Noddy. Starts at R side of buttress below prominent flake. Boldly up to first FH then trend R to second FH. Up to top passing last FH, unsuccessfully trying to avoid stepping L. Chain belay.

First route up dirty wall past a few BR's.

Looks heinous!! Two FH's lead up and to the L to a rest before the crux at the third FH. Up past one BR to finish. Chain belay.

Up to scoop and BR. Onwards past another three BR's to chain belay.

Weakness just L of Penial Warts. Four BR's and chain belay. Really just a variant start to Penile Warts as it joins it at the second BR.

Start at warty tree. Up corner to small tree stump. Clip BR on L then up to second BR and traverse to the L. Up past another two BR's and a small wire over the lip if you feel it is required, then up to chain belay.

Didn't manage to find this one. Supposedly about 3m R of Penile Warts. Up past three BR's on difficult moves if you're the height of the first ascensionists. At top corner above third BR, step L and up to chain belay.

5m R of the warty tree. Up to first BR at the patch of white lichen. Traverse R and up to second BR. Up to FH and crux. Clip fourth BR and you're there. Chain belay.

Start at the left arête of the above mentioned slab. Head up to the large flake past two BR's. The third BR is out on the L on top of the flake, a medium cam is required out to the R. Follow the line of least resistance past seven BR's to chain belay.

Up slab past SLCD slot and across to the R (long BR). Make your way back L under roof past nose (big SLCD) and up to the big hole (BR). From here zig-zag through break in wall past two BR's. Once on slab, follow breaks to chain belay. (BR's, #2.5 & ~#4 SLCDs & medium wires)

Start as for the previous two climbs. Head to the same bolt at the hole. Step down onto tooth and up R to ledge. From ledge follow BR's to chain belay.

A direct start for Image is All. Start up slab about eight metres R of original start. Head up past two BR's then trend L to undercling and up to ledge.

Another direct start just R of I'll be Bach. This time up slab past three BR's to hole and BR.

Reputedly good and hard. Great pinches through the overhang. Up the slab heading for the big white stripe on the steep wall up high passing 4 BR's to get there. Climb the steep stain past another BR, then keep going following the bolts.

Up almost horizontal flake to natural gear in corner. Up slab to BR. Traverse L to corner crack, an #11 hex can be fiddled into hole. Thence to the R and up crack to CB.

Start as for Wasp. Up to ledge at 5m, then up to BR. Continue up past small cam and another four BR's. From fifth BR trend L to chain belay.

10m R. Apparently the streak up the vague L-facing corner has been done without bolts. Meander up to tree belay..

The black, L-trending wide crack up the slab ending at a tree belay.

Up the short arête clipping BR's to chain belay.

Start about 4m R of Jetsom. Head straight up slab clipping BR's to chain belay.

Tricky boulder in the middle then through roof. 8 FH's to lower off at top of cliff.

Slab (2 FH’s) to easy L traverse. Up with big moves (3 FHs) to thinky exit R. One of the least steep routes at the crag.

4m R. Cool, punchy moves past chain permadraw and a steep finish. 6 FH’s to anchor. Hard!

6m R. The cool-looking overhanging mini-corner-seam. Very bouldery and difficulty might be a bit height dependent? 6 FH’s to anchor.

8m R. 6 FH’s to anchor. Reachy, bouldery climbing on steep, bomber rock to finish on big ledge. An interesting mix of slabby and steep sections

3m R of Sherlock Hemlock. 6 FH’s to anchor. Easy scramble past first bolt to ledge and clip, then solid rock to finish. Tricky crimps on good feet to high reach past bulge at fourth bolt.

4m R. 8 FH’s to anchor. High first bolt above the big crater feature, then enjoyable varied climbing on good rock with a steep and tricky finish. Low in the grade.

Climb Extra Shot. Then bust R along the rail passing one FH to anchor of Glenn’s project. Back-jump.

2m R. 7 FH’s to anchors. Some nice bouldery pulls with crux up top.

Starts same as above but takes the right-hand bolt line. Trends up and R passing monster flake (climbing corner L of this) to roof, through this on flakes. 9 FH’s then mantle to anchor above lip.

A large traversing line. First two bolts as for Flexion (long draw on second), then layback the monster flake to stance. Clip FH on R, then edge R-wards across the blank slab for about 8m to the point the line skyrockets up through the roof (super). The route keeps going up the headwall for about 10m on superb stone. Take some long slings. A 60m rope is more than sufficient as it’s a traverse.

Direct start (5m R - 3 FH’s) with jump start and slab dyno is an open project. Red tag on first FH.

15m R in central section of wall. Monster traverse - traverses about 15m R through a 45 degree overhung wall. A tribute to a very talented 12yo Italian climber on the day of his passing. 12 FH’s. Permadraws. Very chossy until the 2nd draw.

5m L of X-Men up obscene steepness. Just awesome.

Not many routes of this grade are this steep. Starts up on a high, sandy platform. Juggy short wall to very unlikely roof flake ending at anchors in the middle of an otherwise blank wall. Belayer must wear a helmet as the flake likes giving free samples. Extension is Lee's gift to Adam Ondra and is open.

There has been concerns raised about the stability of the large flake by a number of climbers who have recently been on this route. It is very difficult to assess the stability of a feature like this, and the probability of serious rockfall. But the potential outcomes can be managed by being mindful of where the belayer and onlookers are located.

5m R. Starts on high ledge near remains of a tree 5m off the deck. Access this by scrambling up from far R, then carefully walking back L. Clip first UB on Miss Sixty with long sling for safety while getting established on the line. Four clips (UB’s and FH’s) and very bouldery tension climbing. Anchors on smooth orange shield.

1m R. Scramble up to start ledge from R, then carefully wander over to far L of ledge (chalky choss) to U-bolt above a chossy white V-groove. Route blasts up from here passing 5 FH’s to anchor. Steep, bouldery and thin with a spicy top section. A bit of care with the beautiful start flake, please.

Prepare to be dominated. Climb Miss Sixty to last bolt, then grapple the overlap diagonally R passing another 5 FH’s to shared anchor of next route. Absolute beast of a pitch. Super good.

The line 10m R which blasts straight up the guts of the steepness. U-bolt, then 6 FH’s up the 45 degree overhung wall to an incredible finish with one of the best holds I’ve ever seen on the finishing ledge. Classic.