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Summary

The rock is a form of volcanic sandstone with fantastic frictional properties. Some of the rock looks friable but is surprisingly strong. Jointing and quartz intrusions make great natural pro.

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Description

Bittangabee Sea Cliffs North is a compact climbing area located within the Ben Boyd National Park, 300k south-east from Canberra near the NSW and Victorian state border.

The rock is a form of volcanic sandstone with fantastic frictional properties. Some of the rock looks friable but is surprisingly strong. Considerable jointing and quartz intrusions make for great natural pro.

The cliff is approximately 250 metres in length and ranges from 12-15 metres high.

The rock is heavily featured, quite steep with some small roofs and overhanging faces. The area has great potential for development as a challenging, if short trad climbing area. The use of bolts in this area is not considered appropriate as the cliff is located within the Ben Boyd National Park. Any harder routes can be protected on abseil or top roped. This is an ideal area for beginners with a multitude of easier climbs. The area is a beautiful spot and should be preserved as such.

Climbs are described south to north or looking at the cliff with your back to the ocean left to right. Descend at either end of the cliff.

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Approach

Take Monaro Highway to Cooma, follow the Snowy Mountains Highway towards Bega via Brown Mountain. Turn right towards Candelo and head for Eden. In Eden turn right to Orbost, travel about 17kms and turn left onto Edrom Road. Turn right onto Green Cape Road after 6km. Turn Right at the T Intersection (8 km). Turn left at 6km on to the Bittangabee Bay road. Total trip time is around 3½ hours from Canberra.

Access the climbing area by walking north from the campsite on the Bittangabee – Saltwater creek walking trail. You have two options to access the trail, either via the beach or ‘Ruins Track’. 30 minutes of easy walking gets you to the top of the crag. The beach track starts on the north side of the camping ground turning loop. The ‘Ruins Track’ starts on the northern side of the day trippers’ barbeque area with both tracks joining on the southern side of Bittangabee Creek.

Walk along Bittangabee Creek in a westerly direction on a rather indistinct track, cross at the well worn rock bar and follow the more defined track through the Bell Bird forest. After cresting the ridge the flora changes to low wind beaten scrub. The track continues through impenetrable Ti tree before reaching a large exposed rock platform up to 100m wide at points.

Access can be gained at either end of the cliff by an easy scramble down onto the rock ledge immediately above the ocean. Profuse jointing at the top allows for solid top anchors to be set. Bring a few long slings or an extra rope and plenty of SLCD’s or hexcentrics. During heavy seas or king tides access to the climbs may well be impossible with the entire area exposed to southerly winds.

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Where to stay

There are plenty of choices for accommodation in the region. You can camp at Bittangabee Bay which has pit toilets, gas barbeques and a freshwater creek. A variety of campsites, van parks or motels are available in the region. Eden is close and has pubs for that quenching ale if you forgot to take water to the crag. This area is hardly a day trip but good for a couple of days. Check with the met office to avoid disappointment. Park entry fees of $7.00 a day per vehicle and camping fees of $5.00 per adult apply. You will need to book ahead by ringing the Merimbula rangers on Ph. 02 6495 5001 or Fax: 02 6495 5055

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Ethic

It is important to remember this is a National Park and sensitive to human activities. Whilst little vegetation grows on the cliff itself, be sensitive to the local flora and fauna. Bolts are unnecessary and chalk should be used sparingly as the rock has exceptional frictional properties and barely needs any. Do not camp at the crag and take out all you waste, do not dispose of it in the ocean or surrounds.

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History

Information here is based on a guide put together for the CCA by David Cameron and Rick Carey. Rick is responsible for many of the first ascents in this area.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1

(The 1st and most southerly climb) Up the overhanging corner below a roof on jugs, straight up the easiest line to orange rock bay and top.

FA: Rick Carey & Kylie Chomatek, 2001

2
18 Meaning of Life Trad 12m

Up the most obvious crack line on the far right of wall.

FA: Rick Carey, Kylie Chomatek, 2001

3

Climb up the two large cracks on jugs, a single crack leads to the top. Good wires for pro.

FA: Rick Carey, Kylie Chomatek, 2001

4

Crack left of Flight 11

FA: Stuart McElroy & Michael Batchelor

5
20 Flight 11 Trad

Straight up obvious slopey crack left of MOL (Difficult to protect on lead) follow crack line to block at top, over block to top.

FA: Rick Carey & Kylie Chomatek, 2001

6
10 Zoot Trad

Solo up onto top of large block and white flake onto block at the top, easy quick access to top.

FA: Rick Carey, 2001

7

Undercut start a few metres left of AQPFR. Crank hard and twist lock to small mantle edge. Desperate moves to crimpy edges on back wall. Arrange cams under rooflet flake, undercling and find the hidden flake up high. Cruise to the top.

FA: Dave Cameron & Richard Morley, 2005

8

The flake crack 1 meter right of AQPFR. Up the flake then straight to top on monster jugs.

FA: Rick Carey & Glen Fruit, 2001

9

Start 2m right of OBR at overlapping pocket, up flake into corner on to top.

FA: Rick Carey & Glen Fruit, 2001

10
22 Candyman Trad

FA: Justin Ryan

11

Up edge of the thin central flake. Use 1½ and 2 cams in quartz intrusion at roof for pro. Traverse left to the arête where a hidden thread allows a good rest. Layback up the arête, gear in slots.

FA: Dave Cameron, 2005

12
23 *** Shits 6:30AM Trad

Start as TTL. Crank through roof and up slopes to pocket. A jugular popping mantle leads to a good rest. Run it out to top.

FA: Dave Cameron, 2005

13

Into and up the obvious damp, dark chimney, can be wet and slippery. Beware of mozzies with chainsaws.

FA: Rick Carey & Kylie Chomatek, 2001

14

Arete between AGC and NNA. Campus start on jugs then straight up arete.

FA: Stuart McElroy & Michael Batchelor

15

Climb up the juggy arête and crack just around to the right of AC, pumpy undercut start, up on jugs to large ledge, up the short wall above to the top.

FA: Rick Carey & Glen Fruit, 2001

16

3 m right of NNA at obvious flakes. A tricky start then straight up flakes, great gear, great fun, very rough treatment for the uninitiated.

FA: Dave Cameron & Richard Morley, 2005

17

Left of the two cracks on wall, up easily to cam placement, continue up on good holds and more cams, straight up obvious line over block to top.

FA: Rik Carey & Kylie Chomatek, 2001

18
15 Lyelle Dares Trad

Start at the bottom of the right hand crack easily to good wire placement, straight up obvious line using cams to top.

FA: Rick Cameron & Kylie Chomatek, 2001

19

Start on top of triangular shaped ledge, up the corner on good holds, great pro, continue up corner to the top.

FA: Rick Cameron & Kylie Chomatek, 2001

20
16 Jealous Tart Trad

Start easily up the diagonal crack behind the flake, onto ledge then up purple wall straight above (crux) protect with large cam.

FA: Kylie Chomatek & Rick Carey, 2001

21

Up the line of shallow pods/pockets passing a two finger pocket en route – to the left of Johnny Shoot the Messenger Boy

FA: Stuart McElroy & Michael Batchelor

22

Step across the water onto the arête, head on up, cams in horizontals. Arrange gear under small roof and pull through to glory. Alternate starts possible.

FA: David Cameron, Richard Morley & Mal MacDonnell, 2005

23
17 * Smashing! Trad

The wall a couple of metres left of Sedition

FA: Stuart McElroy & Michael Batchelor

24
19 *** Sedition Trad

Step across the water onto the face and place gear as you see fit (Don’t comment on the government). Trend left (of the political landscape) over the bulging (capitalists pigs) and place cams in the sickle shaped crack. Undermine the status quo by using underhanded techniques in the crack, then head straight up the middle of the road on good crimpers. Easier than it looks, easier said than done.

FA: David Cameron, Mal MacDonnell & Richard Morely, 2005

25
11 Beez Neez Trad

South around the corner from Beer Battered Rock is an obvious crack 2m from the arête. A short climb with tricky moves at 4m. Has a nice top out and good protection.

FA: Alan Bainbridge & Mal MacDonnell, 2005

26

Mals description to go here, problem is he had 6 Beers before Midnight and can’t remember anything. Jug Haul/Crimp/Slap Dynamically/Layback/Mantle/Smear/Scum up the easy/tricky/difficult start, follow the obvious/not so obvious line/seam/slab/crack/flake of jugs/crimps/slopers/heucos to the crux. Finish as start.

FA: Mal MacDonnell & Alan Bainbridge, 2005

27
V3 Pub Crawl Boulder

Start at the white splattered rock a few metres right of '6 beers before midnight' and traverse left for about 17m. Follow the lowest dyke for the first half, under-cling through the small overlap on the corner (crux), and stay on low holds well below the dyke for the second section, finishing at the incut corner.

28

Start 3m right of the arête, head to right up crack a few metres, trend left slinging lumpy jug. Head left to arête using 1 and 1½ cams for protection. Continue up arête.

FA: Dave Cameron & Richard Morley, 2005

29
22 *** Orange Ruffy Trad

Start as for MND. Head straight up from lumpy jug to hidden heuco. Move up and right along thin break then up small pockets to slopey mantle top out. Serious.

FA: Dave Cameron & Richard Morley, 2005

30
21 *** Zymurgy Trad

Very bouldery start – landing is good. Up to thin horizontal slot, place 0.5 cam after you reach the next holds. Thin moves follow on equally thin gear, bloody brilliant.

FA: Dave Cameron, 2005

31

FA: Rick Carey & Glen Fruit, 2001

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