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Routes as trad in South Coast

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Showing all 74 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Tuross gorge Waterfall cliffs
20 Can't hear you

FA: Dave Cameron & Adam Steer

Trad 75m, 3
17 Brown Underpants Arete

P1: 18, 40m - Up thin crack a few meters right of the arête to a detached flake. Traverse right around flake and move back left above it. Head up to the base of the bottomless chimney around the corner to the belay ledge with some fixed gear

P2: 15, 50m - head right and up from ledge for 10m, tarverse 30m along orange rock. Continue 10m to top. back clean to P1 and rap off fixed gear

FA: adam steer & david cameron, 2003

Trad 90m, 2
16 Consumer Friendly

Right of the falls. Rap in and start when it gets too slippery. follow the ledges and corner crack to the top.

FA: Rick Carey & Jamie Valdivia, 2005

Trad 45m
21/22 Black Adder

Set an anchor 10m right of the fixed abseil point. Rap in to a small ledge just above the water. Two 0.5 cams at waist height will prevent a swim.

FA: Rick Carey & Dave Cameron, 2005

Trad 50m, 3
Tuross gorge The Summer Fun Walls
21 Hot Damm Hot

Start in the centre of the steep undercut slab. Crank through the bulge (21) or traverse in from left (20) and follow the crack line to the top of the slab. Rap off slings.

FA: Dave Cameron & Adam Steer

Trad 30m
Ben Boyd National Park Bittangabee - Nth Side of Bay
17 Kylies Psyche

(The 1st and most southerly climb) Up the overhanging corner below a roof on jugs, straight up the easiest line to orange rock bay and top.

FA: Rick Carey & Kylie Chomatek, 2001

Trad
18 Meaning of Life

Up the most obvious crack line on the far right of wall.

FA: Rick Carey & Kylie Chomatek, 2001

Trad 12m
17 A Quick Prick From Rick

Climb up the two large cracks on jugs, a single crack leads to the top. Good wires for pro.

FA: Rick Carey & Kylie Chomatek, 2001

Trad 12m
17 Newborns on Holidays

Crack left of Flight 11

FA: Stuart McElroy & Michael Batchelor

Trad
20 Flight 11

Straight up obvious slopey crack left of MOL (Difficult to protect on lead) follow crack line to block at top, over block to top.

FA: Rick Carey & Kylie Chomatek, 2001

Trad
10 Zoot

Solo up onto top of large block and white flake onto block at the top, easy quick access to top.

FA: Rick Carey, 2001

Trad
21 Underneath Work

Undercut start a few metres left of AQPFR. Crank hard and twist lock to small mantle edge. Desperate moves to crimpy edges on back wall. Arrange cams under rooflet flake, undercling and find the hidden flake up high. Cruise to the top.

FA: Dave Cameron & Richard Morley, 2005

Trad
13 Osama's Been Rooted

The flake crack 1 meter right of AQPFR. Up the flake then straight to top on monster jugs.

FA: Rick Carey & Glen Fruit, 2001

Trad 12m
14 Lets Go To Kabul

Start 2m right of OBR at overlapping pocket, up flake into corner on to top.

FA: Rick Carey & Glen Fruit, 2001

Trad
22 Candyman

FA: Justin Ryan

Trad
18 Third Time Looser

Up edge of the thin central flake. Use 1½ and 2 cams in quartz intrusion at roof for pro. Traverse left to the arête where a hidden thread allows a good rest. Layback up the arête, gear in slots.

FA: Dave Cameron, 2005

Trad
23 Shits 6:30AM

Start as TTL. Crank through roof and up slopes to pocket. A jugular popping mantle leads to a good rest. Run it out to top.

FA: Dave Cameron, 2005

Trad
15 Aero Guard Chimney

Into and up the obvious damp, dark chimney, can be wet and slippery. Beware of mozzies with chainsaws.

FA: Rick Carey & Kylie Chomatek, 2001

Trad
16 Up, Up & Away

Arete between AGC and NNA. Campus start on jugs then straight up arete.

FA: Stuart McElroy & Michael Batchelor

Trad
18 Not Nostradamus Again

Climb up the juggy arête and crack just around to the right of AC, pumpy undercut start, up on jugs to large ledge, up the short wall above to the top.

FA: Rick Carey & Glen Fruit, 2001

Trad
17 Yorkshire Girls Draw Blood

3 m right of NNA at obvious flakes. A tricky start then straight up flakes, great gear, great fun, very rough treatment for the uninitiated.

FA: Dave Cameron & Richard Morley, 2005

Trad 12m
16 Life of Brian

Left of the two cracks on wall, up easily to cam placement, continue up on good holds and more cams, straight up obvious line over block to top.

FA: Rik Carey & Kylie Chomatek, 2001

Trad
15 Lyelle Dares

Start at the bottom of the right hand crack easily to good wire placement, straight up obvious line using cams to top.

FA: Rick Cameron & Kylie Chomatek, 2001

Trad
14 Cum on the Rocks

Start on top of triangular shaped ledge, up the corner on good holds, great pro, continue up corner to the top.

FA: Rick Cameron & Kylie Chomatek, 2001

Trad
16 Jealous Tart

Start easily up the diagonal crack behind the flake, onto ledge then up purple wall straight above (crux) protect with large cam.

FA: Kylie Chomatek & Rick Carey, 2001

Trad
18 Beautiful Bridget

Up the line of shallow pods/pockets passing a two finger pocket en route – to the left of Johnny Shoot the Messenger Boy

FA: Stuart McElroy & Michael Batchelor

Trad
16 Johnny Shoot the Messenger Boy

Step across the water onto the arête, head on up, cams in horizontals. Arrange gear under small roof and pull through to glory. Alternate starts possible.

FA: David Cameron, Richard Morley & Mal MacDonnell, 2005

Trad
17 Smashing!

The wall a couple of metres left of Sedition

FA: Stuart McElroy & Michael Batchelor

Trad
19 Sedition

Step across the water onto the face and place gear as you see fit (Don’t comment on the government). Trend left (of the political landscape) over the bulging (capitalists pigs) and place cams in the sickle shaped crack. Undermine the status quo by using underhanded techniques in the crack, then head straight up the middle of the road on good crimpers. Easier than it looks, easier said than done.

FA: David Cameron, Mal MacDonnell & Richard Morely, 2005

Trad
11 Beez Neez

South around the corner from Beer Battered Rock is an obvious crack 2m from the arête. A short climb with tricky moves at 4m. Has a nice top out and good protection.

FA: Alan Bainbridge & Mal MacDonnell, 2005

Trad 10m
11 6 Beers Before Midnight

Mals description to go here, problem is he had 6 Beers before Midnight and can’t remember anything. Jug Haul/Crimp/Slap Dynamically/Layback/Mantle/Smear/Scum up the easy/tricky/difficult start, follow the obvious/not so obvious line/seam/slab/crack/flake of jugs/crimps/slopers/heucos to the crux. Finish as start.

FA: Mal MacDonnell & Alan Bainbridge, 2005

Trad
18 Mark's Not Dead, He's Just Pining For The Fjords

Start 3m right of the arête, head to right up crack a few metres, trend left slinging lumpy jug. Head left to arête using 1 and 1½ cams for protection. Continue up arête.

FA: Dave Cameron & Richard Morley, 2005

Trad
22 Orange Ruffy

Start as for MND. Head straight up from lumpy jug to hidden heuco. Move up and right along thin break then up small pockets to slopey mantle top out. Serious.

FA: Dave Cameron & Richard Morley, 2005

Trad
21 Zymurgy

Very bouldery start – landing is good. Up to thin horizontal slot, place 0.5 cam after you reach the next holds. Thin moves follow on equally thin gear, bloody brilliant.

FA: Dave Cameron, 2005

Trad
20 Sept the Eleventh

FA: Rick Carey & Glen Fruit, 2001

Trad
Ben Boyd National Park City Rocks
16 Wish You Were Here

The first view of the ocean from the end of the path reveals a perched boulder directly ahead close to the edge and somewhat closer than all the recorded routes further east. Down behind this perched boulder is a clean wall above a non tidal platform bounded on it's left end by a square cut corner. Wish You Were Here takes the corner without bailing out onto the ledge at just over half height.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 10 Jul 2017

Trad 7m
19 Storm Front Crack

A strong trad line that looks much worse than it is. Locate rock wedged in tree about 2m back from edge. The crack is visible splitting the cliff edge. Rap from tree into small belay ledge 5m above swell. Stem up v-corner then over bulge. Easily up wide crack then launch up the sustained handcrack to top.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt, 2007

Trad 17m
18 Invasion Day

Best trad line on the cliff. Thin seam splitting the orange and grey rock 10m around the left of Salty The Seal. You can see this route from the fishing ledges back at the tourist track. Locate the double BR bolts at the top of the route near the cliff edge. Thin crack to start leads into small left facing cornerette. Great gear and great climbing. Double BR belay.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt, 2007

Trad 19m
25 Arete (project)

Partially toproped (upper half only)

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

Trad 18m
19 Police Cruiser

Starts at major arête, Traverse diagonally up and right across giant crystals to break through right side of big roof. Com- mitting finish up slabby runnels.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007

Trad 20m
17 Salty The Seal

Good line and great climbing. The easiest way up this section of wall. Start right of the overhung wall and traverse across left on amazing quartz dyke to reach small ledge. Straight up the thin crack above to large left facing corner conclusion.

FFA: Jono Schmidt & Neil Monteith, 2007

Trad 21m
23 Crystalline

Start as for Salty The Seal but go straight up to steepness (UB). Swing left and up to big undercling heuco and upwards. Big scoops and bizarre crux. Sustained. Bring some small/ medium cams and some slings for the threads above the last bolt. 4 u-bolts.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt, 2007

Mixed 18m, 4
24 Barnacle Breath

Tenuous pocketed crux up blank looking corner. Almost a sport route. Start 3m right of Crystalline. Wander up the nice juggy start then enter the overhung blank corner. Quickly exit right and up pockets then step back into corner. 5 U-bolts. Fist crack size cams to finish.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt, 2007

Mixed 18m, 5
21 Rolling Swells

A strong natural line straight up the guts of the main wall. 3m right of Barnacle Breath at undercut crack. Up crack to steep corner, stem this (RB) then up crack to juggy conclusion. Sin- gle U bolt lower-off. Don’t try and top out the grass up above. Bring a full rack.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt, 2007

Mixed 18m, 1
23 Humidifier

Conditions were less than ideal on the first ascent. Starts 2m right of RS. Up delicate face to under left side of big roof, monkey out this on jugs then tough lip pull to mantle onto ledge. Stem up open corner to juggy conclusion. 4 u-bolts + medium trad.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007

Mixed 20m, 4
Possible Project

Big roof. Looked at by Neil but no bolts (yet).

Trad 18m
21 Skiving Sea Monkeys

A big dark line, which tends to stay wet after heavy rain. Starts 2m right of major blank corner and 6m right of Humidifier. Up unlikely thin face seam (u-bolt) and onto ledge. Swing left over undercut and up left into lift shaft (UB). Stem up this shaft to top. Harder if you are short. Full rack required to #4 SLCD.

FFA: Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2007

Mixed 20m, 2
20 Performing Dolphins

A bunch of Japanese tourists filmed the equipping of this route. The exposed rounded prow with bouldery gritstone start. Located 6m right of SSM. Edge up start (2 u-bolts) onto ledge. Up face above (UB) to committing finish move. Medi- um cams/wires required.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007

Mixed 19m, 3
20 Shark Bait

RP special. Daunting line with just enough (small) gear. Starts 6m right of PD, and 2m left of major blank corner. Climb up short wall to ledge. Stem up short closed corner, step right and up to big break (#5 cam). Edge up face above (RPs and tiny cams) to finally reach a good ledge and gear. Easily to top.

FFA: Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2007

Trad 18m
19 Third Time Lucky

Committing trad climbing split by three ledges. Starts 3m right of major corner at small right facing corner. Spaced small gear and a long reach move at about 7m. Finish up leftwards into small right facing corner flake. Take standard rack plus micro cams (Black Aliens).

FFA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007

Trad 17m, 91
18 Layback And Swim To England

Sustained flakes and one of the best routes here. Continuous rain showers thwarted attempts. Starts 3m right of TTL below open book corner. Stem up this (UB) to horizontal break. Lay- back up wonderful flakes to top.

FFA: Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2007

Mixed 15m, 1
22 Sailing The Seas Of Green

Sustained pod crack climbing with a bit of choss to finish. Starts 2m right of LASTE. Bouldery start to get to first UB. 3 u-bolts. Bring a standard rack to supplement bolts.

FFA: Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2007

Mixed 15m, 3
18 Wedgewood

Major trad excursion through some unlikely territory. A piece of driftwood is wedged in the horizontal halfway up this route! Starts 4m right of chimney slot, at undercut wall. Boulder through roof and then work your way up to easiest break in roof at third height. Swing left and up heucos to top. Bring cams up to #5.

FFA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007

Trad 16m
Ben Boyd National Park Pulpit Rock Pulpit Rock - North Side
10 The Pull Pit

Seems like the same route as A Short History Of The World. Towards the left end of the face is a large left leaning , freestanding block. Jam the flaring crack, chimney to the top, and then scramble to terrace.

FA: Gary Rankin (solo), 1991

Trad 10m
15 Bindun

Start as for Fisherman's Basket but swing rigth onto the blocky face an dup this to top. Protection looks marginal. Top-rope only!

FA: Gary Rankin (top-rope only), 1991

Trad 10m
9 Ticks And Maggots

The left-hand crack of the first recessed corner. Up (ode to Bittangabee)

FA: Gary Rankin, 1991

Trad 10m
7 Hydraulic Flush

The inside corner 7m left of 'Ticks And Maggots'.

FA: Gary Rankin, Joel Rankin, Cathy Fraser & John Murphy, 1992

Trad 10m
17 Guns Germs and Steel

Left ward lay back up sharp arête to flake, smear to top.

FA: Matt Rogerson, Rick Carey & Solo, 2000

Trad 8m
20 White horses

Start easily on jugs up the face past 2 bolts balancey moves to gain small pockets. Trend right to horizontal break holds then up to good holds at 2nd bolt finish straight up using small wires or cams for protection.

Start: Straight up the face 3 meters left of fisherman's dunny.

FA: Rick Carey & Nathan Roberts, 2006

Trad 10m
20 Left Wall Down Under

Arête to the left of CCDU.

FA: Rick Carey & Mike Law Smith, 2004

Trad 10m
20 Fisherman’s Basket aka Wayback Layback

Right of the low sloping roofs, in the middle of the main face, is a sinuous left leaning crack which begins on a step at the base of the cliff. jam up this left ward sloping jam crack.

FA: Mike Law Smith & Rick Carey, 2004

Trad 9m
21 Shark Bait

Start as for fisherman's dunny, step left on break, then straight up the face past two bolts on thin holds to natural break, straight up to finish.

FA: Rick Carey Rope solo, 2006

Trad 10m
21 R Sandy Hunt

Open book corner capped by a small roof crux, caution loose looking block on left.

FA: Rick Carey, Matt Rogerson & Zac Zaharias, 2004

Trad 10m
20 Fisherman’s Grief

Leftward sloping finger crack at back of embayment.

FA: Mike Law Smith & Rick Carey, 2004

Trad 8m
20 Sea Eagles

Diagonal crack left of FB. Take big cams.

FA: Matt Rogerson & Zac Zaharias, 2004

Trad 9m
12 Short History of the World

Grovel up the chimney left of FG.

FA: Matt Rogerson & Rick Carey, 2004

Trad 8m
21 New Balance

Directly up, balancey with RP's to protect initial moves up to hand crack, straight up to ledge then top.

FA: Rick Carey & Mike Law Smith, 2004

Trad 8m
17 Cenotaph Corner Down Under

Big corner 5m around to the left of the Mystery Carrot routes.

FA: Rick Carey & Mike Law Smith, 2004

Trad 9m
Ben Boyd National Park Pulpit Rock Pulpit Rock - South Side Upper
17 Wanted In Seven Countries

FA: Neil

Trad 8m
16 Pet Porpoise Pool Trad 9m
16 Euro Tan Trad 7m
Nadgee Wonboyn Greenglade
16 Nads Edge

FA: Macciza a.k.a. Macca & Nadège

Trad 20m
15 Gee Nad

FA: Macciza a.k.a. Macca & Nadège

Trad 20m
14 No Nads

First route done on cliff. Due to an overly anxious leader and lack of initial game plan, seconder could not follow as rope was pulled up. Oops, my bad ...

Trad 20m

Showing all 74 routes.