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Description

Lanagan's Falls is a series of largish buttresses and walls formed of dioritic rock. In parts it is massive, in others it is almost columnar. Flying Buttress is the tallest section, being about 120-130 metres high. The major section of the crag is approximately 300 metres wide, but several more subsiduary sections extend both left and right of this, adding almost as much width again. The rock provides both good holds and friction. However then wet the rock tends to be rather slippery. The black rock is superb, but when climbing on the red/yellowish coloured rock, some care is recommended as this colour usually indicates deep weathering. New routes often require some cleaning, but once this has been completed the rock underneath is usually of top quality.

Approach

Lanagans Falls is located on the opposite side of the valley from Perpendicular Rock. Cross Goodmans Ford (now a bridge) and continue up the road for 1400 metres to where the creek crosses. There is lots of space, so parking is easy. The most obvious way to the crag is to simply follow the creek bed. This involves quite a bit of boulder hopping and some minor climbing. There is an old track on the left (southern) valley side which joins the creek at about 2/3 of the way up. Unfortunately, this track can be hard to find and thus can take longer then the creek bed route. The walk from car to crag takes about 50 minutes. There has been a change in the status of the creek area, as a track to allow motorised vehicles has recently been constructed, and a tape barrier across the track. It may be necessary to see the camp manager/owner for permission to walk up the creek bed - I suspect his main concern is to keep out trail-bikes and 4 wheel drives. This crag is on private property.

History

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This crag had been seen from Perpendicular Rock for several years, but at that distance it appears broken and low angled; and the route to the base of the crag somewhat rugged. Consequently, it did not evoke any interest. During the 70's several attempts were made, without success, to reach the crag from the top and from side spurs. In March 1982, Ron Miller and Harry Luxford made the first climbing visit to the crag. Not only did the walk-up turnout to be fairly easy, but the surrounding environs were rather pleasant. The result of the first trip - a healthy dose of "respect". The weeks later Kevin Westren and Harry camped at the Goodmans Ford for five days and commenced the crag's development. The first completed climb was Wonga Crack on Raven Wall. Lanagan's Falls is rather cold in winter, but the enthusiasm was so high that another eight climbs were completed between April and August, by Harry and Kevin. This was during a period of drought, thus they were able to do the actual falls in the dry, now the route Slipstream. The warmth of Spring brought Bruce Cameron out of hibernation and development accelerated. The rest of the year produced six routes in September, five in October, nine in November and three in December. All bar one done by Bruce and Harry. By now the crag was no longer a secret, many climbers began to visit the area. But the number of new routes increased only slowly - though not from a lack of potential. An interim guide was produced in 1984. But the time was not right for the crag to be popular. Many people did not like the walk up, or the drive from Sydney, or the wildness of the place; and at that time there was plenty of new sandstone areas being developed. The area was almost forgotten. Maybe this guidebook will help change this. [Ho ho ho - this was written in 1998!]

Routes

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Grade Route

An easy way up the left wall. Start: Immediately above pool.

  1. 40m Follow series of corners and ledges.

FA: H.Luxford, S.Kitchen & Sep 84

Grade is for when a drought is on. Start: Just follow the stream - it is the actual falls.

  1. 20m Chimney through hole, up to ledge.

  2. 20m Up to next ledge.

  3. 20m (crux) Rightish then up. 4,5,6. 100m Easily up.

  4. 15m Bridge onto block, right into corner and up.

FA: K.Westren & H.Luxford (alt leads) Aug 82

Some enjoyable moves on steepish, black wall. Start: First crack on right wall in the black gully.

  1. 42m (crux) Straight up.

  2. 13m Left to abseil tree.

FA: H.Luxford, K.Westren & Aug 82

An enjoyable meander that stays just left of nose all the way to the top. Start: Crack immediately above the pool.

  1. 20m Up corner to steep part, then left, up to belay.

  2. 25m Onto block, then across to tree.

  3. 25m Up as will to large ledge.

  4. 30m (crux) Up cracks right on nose, then left and up to trees.

  5. 5m Up to largest tree.

  6. 25m Up corner above tree.

  7. 20m To top as will.

FA: B.Cameron & H.Luxford (alt leads) Sep 82

The rock gives the climb its name. Start: Left side of Green Gully.

  1. 15m Up crack to ledge.

  2. 5m To top.

FA: H.Luxford, B.Cameron & Dec 82

A very good climb. Start: The major corner-crack on right side of Green Gully.

  1. 20m Up wide corner to ledge.

  2. 30m (crux) Up great corner, belay at roof.

  3. 30m Climb roof via huge wedged blocks to left, up weakness to ledges.

FA: H.Luxford & B.Cameron (alt leads) 1982

Top pitch is a good wall and crack. Start: On eastern side of Green Gully, the corner behind the tree.

  1. 30m Up corners to largish horizontal tree.

  2. 20m (crux) Crack left of tree - straight up.

FA: B.Cameron, K.Westren (alt leads) H.Luxford & Sep 82

Top pitch is enjoyable. Start: Left of nose on Flight Deck.

  1. 20m Tight chimney to crack, up corner to ledge and tree.

  2. 5m Across to trees.

  3. 20m (crux) Rightish to small wall, up to corner, to double cracks, left to wider crack, then up.

FA: B.Cameron & H.Luxford (alt leads) Sep 82

This is the eastern and north-eastern sides of Flying Buttress.

A quick way to get to the Flight Deck. Start: Through the tree, high to right of pool. 1 and 2 Just follow the easiest way through the vegetation.

FA: H.Luxford & S.Kitchen Sep 84

First climb on Flying Buttress. Kevin had celebrated his twenty-fifth year of climbing just two days previously. Start: Centre of lower wall - directly below obvious central crack and corner.

  1. 35m Up corner-crack.

  2. 30m Through the tree to slop then as will to base of main corner.

  3. 20m Mixed tree and rock climbing to ledge with gum tree.

  4. 20m (crux) Up cracks, then right up to large ledge.

  5. 25m Rightish onto flake and pinnacle, back onto wall then up to large ledge. Around to the right of summit blocks.

  6. 15m Up blocks to right OR straight up crack.

FA: H.Luxford & K.Westren Apr 82

A varied and enjoyable series of corners and cracks up front of Flying Buttress. Start: Marked. At left sloping ramp, goes straight above marker.

  1. 25m Up slab to thin crack and corner.

  2. 30m To widish corner-crack then series of crack in steep wall.

  3. 20m (crux) Easiest looking crack - slightly overhanging, up to tree.

  4. 45m Series of crack and corners tending slightly left.

FA: H.Luxford & B.Cameron (alt leads) Sep 82

A way to Flight Deck. Original start corner/crack further left and down. Start: As for Flight of Fancy.

  1. 30m Diagonally left to nose of buttress.

  2. 30m Up as will.

FA: H.Luxford Sep 82

Variety of pitches, including three "steps" at top. Start: Marked. As for Peewee - move left to original line, up cracks etc.

  1. 35m Up to large ledge.

  2. 18m Either crack to ledge.

  3. 15m Corner to small tree.

  4. 20m Corner-crack to ledge, slightly left, up to largish ledge.

  5. 12m First of three steps.

  6. 15m (crux) Second step.

  7. 25m Third step - chimney.

FA: H.Luxford & K.Westren (alt leads) May 82

A couple of very enjoyable pitches. Start: Marked. At 'open space' at righthand end of Flying Buttress - chose your own line through variety of cracks and corners. 1 and 2. 50m Choice of cracks and corners to ledge - wide corner plus 2 cracks in red wall.

  1. 20m Left to small tre, up behind this, right past overhang then up to ledge.

  2. 30m Right to main line - short wall then slabbish corner.

  3. 15m (crux) Onto block then up crack.

  4. 25m Up corner, on block, across to cracks, up.

FA: K.Westren & H.Luxford (alt leads) May 82

Easiest way to the start of these climbs is to do Raven Wall. Start at Wonga Crack, move diagonally left up lower ramp to corner. Up this, then left across obvious left - belay needed - to trees.

A hard and varied route. Start: Obvious yellow ramp on right of Flying Buttress.

  1. 10m Up to ramp.

  2. 40m Yellow ramp to large block, up cracks to left.

  3. 10m (crux) Finger crack in orange wall.

  4. 10m Corner and cracks.

FA: B.Cameron & J.Fantini (alt leads) Jan 83

Easy way to top. Start: Left end of Nest.

  1. 25m Up crack into corner then chimney.

FA: H.Luxford & K.Seddon Apr 83

Superb rock.

  1. 25m Follow easy crack right of Sparrow.

FA: B.Cameron, H.Luxford & Sep 82

Start: Right of Scallywag.

  1. 25m To ledge, widish crack to roof, right, then squeeze to top.

FA: B.Cameron & W.Moon Oct 83

Good climbing on good rock. Start: Obvious corner out of Nest.

  1. 8m Crack and corner.

  2. 17m Straight up.

FA: H.Luxford, K.Westren (alt leads) R.Miller & Aug 82

Steep crack. Start: As for Leading Edge.

  1. 15m Thin crack in right wall.

FA: J.Fantini, B.Cameron & Jan 83

Flake is superb rock. Start: Corner below obvious flake and tree.

  1. 15m (crux) Up to tree.

  2. 15m Up flake to top.

FA: H.Luxford & B.Cameron Sep 82

A fair climb. Start: Diagonal corner-crack in right side of Nest.

  1. 12m Up corner to ledge.

  2. 18m (crux) Follow diagonal crack.

FA: H.Luxford & B.Cameron (alt leads) Oct 82

Two fair pitches. Stat: Right of Fools Errand. Cross over Fools Errand at belay.

  1. 10m (crux) Up corner, left to block.

  2. 20m Straight up to top of tower.

FA: B.Cameron & H.Luxford (alt leads) Oct 82

Pleasant first pitch. Start: Overhang behind tree.

  1. 13m Up crack.

  2. 14m (crux) Corner-crack at rear.

FA: H.Luxford & B.Cameron (alt leads) Oct 82

Good fun. Start: Crack opposite summit pinnacle.

  1. 10m Up crack.

FA: W.Moon & B.Cameron Oct 83

Felt harder than 18 to me. Start: Orange corner in left end of middle ledge on Raven Wall.

  1. 20m Up cracks then left into corner.

FA: J.Fantini & B.Cameron Jan 83

Thin climbing on steep black wall. Start: Left end of Raven Wall, below overhanging gum tree.

  1. 20m Up black seam past bolt.

FA: G.Bradbury & G.Moore 1983

More enjoyable than it looks - thankfully. Start: As for Wonga Crack.

  1. 50m Easily up to tree, onto higher ramp, left to corner, then up to large ledge.

  2. 18m (crux) Up orange wall, into corner, up to tree.

  3. 18m Widish corner-crack, to ledge then right to back of ledge.

  4. 20m Delightful chimney to top.

FA: K.Westren & H.Luxford (alt leads) Aug 82

First climb on the crag. Part of first pitch has fallen down. May need re-grading. Start: Obvious crack in middle of wall.

  1. 25m Up to, and around, bulge to top of block.

  2. 10m Corner to ledge.

  3. 15m To tree.

  4. 25m (crux) Obvious crack to ledge.

  5. 15m Up as will to top.

FA: and around, bulge to top of block. 2. 10m Corner to ledge. 3. 15m To tree. 4. 25m (crux) Obvious crack to ledge. 5. 15m Up as will to top. H.Luxford, K.Westren, H.Luxford & Apr 82

Two reasonable slab/wall pitches. Start: Immediately right of Wonga Crack.

  1. 45m Up black wall to piton, slightly left to ledge.

  2. 45m Up Wonga Crack to rising traverse line - across this.

FA: W.Moon & B.Moon Dec 82

A good first pitch then easily to top. Start: Marked. Fairly obvious leftwards slanting weakness leading to thin crack.

  1. 25m (crux) Up wall to ledge.

  2. 10m Right, then corner to shrubs.

  3. 35m Corner and crack.

  4. 20m Up as will to top.

FA: K.Westren & H.Luxford (alt leads) Apr 82

Enjoyable slab/wall. Start: Thin crack and weakness about 20 metres right of Wonga Crack.

  1. 30m Follow line to tree. Either abseil off OR up as will to top.

FA: H.Luxford, B.Cameron & W.Moon Nov 82

Very enjoyable slab and corner. Start: Marked. As for Dance Of The Butterfly, but moves right at 7 metres.

  1. 40m (crux) Up 7m, rightish to small tree, slightly left, up to ledge.

  2. 40m Corners behind blocks, then corner and crack in black wall.

FA: H.Luxford & B.Cameron (alt leads) Oct 82

Third pitch provides interest. Start: Easy looking crack at right end of Raven Wall.

  1. 10m Up to tre.

  2. 15m Up corners to largish ledge.

  3. 10m (crux) Orange corner.

  4. 45m Left to crack, then to corner, to top.

FA: B.Cameron & H.Luxford (alt leads) Nov 82

An enjoyable, easy climb. Follows grade rather than line. Start: Corner just into gully at far end of wall.

  1. 25m Corner-crack to ledge.

  2. 10m Left over block into wide corner, to ledge.

  3. 35m Left around nose to crack, to corner, up to top.

FA: H.Luxford, S.Chambers & Nov 82

Start: Short corner on lower right side of buttress. Route follows easiest line up the buttress - that is all I can remember about it.

FA: H.Luxford & J.Wayne Mar 84

A long, fairly easy chimney. Start: Gully separating Middle and Bowerbird Buttresses.

  1. 13m Chimney past two lots of blocks.

  2. 20m Up to large blocks.

  3. 35m To blocks, through at rear, up to grassy slope.

  4. ? Up grassy gully to top.

FA: J.Wayne Mar 84, H.Luxford & K.Seddon Apr 83

Second largest buttress, the one with obvious crack lines and corners.

Good climbing in a grand situation! Start: Up ramp at base of buttress, to tree.

  1. 20m Onto ledge then into corner, up to small ledge.

  2. 20m Continue to larger ledge.

  3. 17m Up to roof - poor belay!

  4. 18m (crux) Out under roof then up.

FA: B.Cameron & H.Luxford (alt leads) Apr 83

Superb line. Start: The orange crack system with small overhang. Giles does not remember much about the route, so I cannot give you a description.

FA: G.Bradbury & G.Moore Apr 83

A wandering route. Start: Middle of front of buttress.

  1. 6m Scramble up to blank corner.

  2. 10m (crux) Up then into crack in right wall, to slopey ledge.

  3. 40m Right to widish crack, up, then diagonally left, up corner to tree.

  4. 24m Up twin cracks.

FA: B.Cameron & H.Luxford (alt leads) Apr 83

First climb on Bowerbird Buttress. Follows grade rather than line. Start: Right end of buttress. Large flake and weakeness to tree.

  1. 18m Up to large tree.

  2. 18m Crack to nose, then left to largish ledge.

  3. 20m Left into corner-crack, to tree then right to corner.

  4. 20m (crux) Up corner.

FA: B.Cameron & H.Luxford (alt leads) Oct 82

Thin and steep. Good looking line. Start: As for Sericulus.

  1. 18m Up to tree.

  2. 35m (crux) Thin crack then wall and over block.

  3. 15m Thin black crack and small roof.

FA: S.Moon, B.Cameron (alt leads) & Mar 85

Will be reasonable climb when fully cleaned. Start: Corner left of Silvertail.

  1. 30m Leftish up corner to below tree, then left into smaller corner-crack, to tree.

  2. 35m (crux) Left into crack, to wall, to corner, to slight overhang, to ledge.

  3. 10m Up corner.

FA: H.Luxford & R.Miller Nov 82

Second pitch worthwhile. Start: Just left of Silvertail.

  1. 30m Leftish up corner to tree.

  2. 30m (crux) Into corner-chimney, to ledge, across and up to chimney.

  3. 10m To top.

FA: H.Luxford & R.Miller Nov 82

Should be a good beginners climb when fully cleaned. Start: As for Main Route.

  1. 30m Leftish up corner to tree.

  2. 10m Rightish across chimney to crack and flake, up to tree.

  3. 20m Left to corner crack.

FA: H.Luxford & R.Miller Nov 82

A first rate crack and climb. Start: Obvious hand size crack.

  1. 42m Straight up.

FA: H.Luxford & B.Cameron Nov 82

Looks harder than 20. Start: Corner right of Silvertail.

  1. 50m Up to roof, thin crack and pockets to tree.

FA: S.Moon & B.Cameron Mar 85

A good first pitch, the second is a shocker. Start: Thin crack in wall 10m left of Condor Corner.

  1. 15m (crux) Up thin crack, 2 rests.

  2. 45m Up wide crack in orange wall.

FA: T.Williams & B.Cameron Apr 85

An interesting first pitch. Big gear needed. Start: Obvious, largish corner on point of Peregrine.

  1. 40m Straight up.

  2. 15m Up again, widish bulge.

FA: B.Cameron & H.Luxford Nov 82

Looks a bit scrubby. Start: Corner right of Condor Corner.

  1. ? Up corner to tree.

  2. ? Right, up rubbish, or escape right.

FA: B.Cameron & B.Moon Dec 82

The broken and short area at most northern part of gully. The rock is cleaner than it looks from the falls.

A bit of a grunt.

  1. 40m Crack/chimney between wall and left side of protruding buttress.

FA: H.Luxford, K.Westren & S.Parkes Jun 83

Top section is worthwhile.

  1. 40m Widish crack/chimney on left of protruding buttress.

FA: H.Luxford & T.Seddon Jun 83

First section OK.

  1. 40m Double crack on front of protruding buttress.

FA: H.Luxford & T.Seddon Jun 83

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