A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
For more information refer to our Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
David Nott
Ken
Christopher Lean
Brendan Heywood
Simon Dale
Luke
Ian Phillips
Campbell Gome
Rob Knight
Chris
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA)
Table of contents
- 1. Radar Range
250 in Crag
- 1.1. The Tombstones 20 in Sector
- 1.2. Front and Sector 9 in Sector
- 1.3. The Lowlands 51 in Sector
- 1.4. Radar Highlands 71 in Sector
- 1.5. Deadies Sector 24 in Sector
- 1.6. Tombstone Ridge 48 in Sector
- 1.7. The Other Side 21 in Sector
- 1.8. Valley of Slabs 6 in Sector
- 1.9. The Dross 0 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Radar Range 250 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Boulder
Long/Lat: 148.583371, -34.636955
- Unique Features And Strengths:
-
Granite, with pockets, that's often overhung! And quite tall to boot. Lots of highballs.
- Description:
-
A lovely hill of boulders capped by a large electricity tower and radar array. The rock type is predominately granite (or volcanic tuff masquerading as granite) but seems to be intermixed with rhyolite of some sort, reaching heights of up to around 10 metres (one slabby cliff section in a valley), with many overhung/undercut problems (very unusual for granite) due to the orientation of the rock against the hill. While sometimes contrived, sit-starts on overhung rock are very possible on many of the problems. There are highballs - feel free to top-rope them, but do not bolt them! The rock varies greatly in quality, from ultra-featured and very hard on the skin to smoother and even, in some cases, pocketed rather than flaky. Be aware that rock on some problems will be friable. It's very difficult to clean the amount of rock in this area and the moss is rampant on one side of the hill. All climbs top out unless otherwise stated.
There are no closed projects here. You may wish to stay off a climb that a friend is trying.
Lastly, a word on grades: they're likely to be wrong one way or another. Feel free to contribute your own views and/or change the grades if you feel strongly about them. You will note that some climbs have a range of grades assigned, which indicates either a climb on the tipping point of two grades or in some cases a number of variants that can make a climb easier or harder. Consensus and personal grades are expected, and climbs will always feel harder or easier depending on style, preference, strength, technique and experience.
- Access Issues:
-
This crag is on private property owned by the Harden Council. The Council has been approached and has advised that anyone entering this area does so completely at their own risk - you break it, you're on your own. There are a number of land users, including people who walk and ride up the hill, and nearby farming land as well as the Air Services Australia owned radar at the top of the hill.
Please be sensitive to potential issues and don't make noise that's going to arouse interest (you will be heard for a long distance). Don't expect to always be alone. Please note the ethics - they are there for good reasons and it's all about keeping this crag open, not styles of climbing.
Do not approach the radar array please. For any reason. Be sure to close the gate. Every time. Don't expect someone to close it behind you, you may let some cattle in or out in the meanwhile.
- Approach:
-
The area is a quick 2-3 minute drive from Binalong, heading out the Harden side of the town. There are two parking options:
Continue on for 1.8kms out of the town until you see a right turn t-intersection onto dirt road - Bobbara Road. Continue along the dirt road until you get to the gate and head from there up the hill. You can park at several spots along the road. The boulders are a matter of metres from parking.
Drive on a bit further along Burley Griffin Way and the main road splits off into an old, disused road right below the hill. The boulders are then 15 minutes from the car, uphill.
The hill itself can be quite steep at spots, with quite a lot of potholes.
- Where To Stay:
-
You could stay at the nearby hotel in Binalong.
- Ethic:
-
NO BOLTING AT ALL - not even for setting up top ropes or cleaning, thanks. Use some gear or sling a nearby boulder.
NO CHIPPING OR COMFORTISING - there are WAY MORE than enough problems here! However, please do make the effort to clean off flakes that are likely to go, and moss.
KEEP THE BOULDERS CLEAN - this means removing tick marks and cleaning off excess chalk if need be. Vinegar is great for removing chalk and the granite won't be affected if you need to give something a scrub.
Finally, please follow the naming conventions. Climbs have been named in a satirical fashion. If you make a first ascent - and there's every likelihood you will, given the massive boulder field - then go ahead and have a go at something that amuses or annoys you. Do not number your climb. Give it a frickin' name. Feel free to explain what the name means in the description.
Variants and eliminates welcome. It is bouldering, after all.
- History:
-
While it is difficult to know whether any area has been climbed at before, the first concerted efforts towards development were made after David Nott identified the area in late 2011. After destroying parts of his shoulder he returned with friends in 2012 to try and make a dent in the endless boulder field...
1.1. The Tombstones 20 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Long/Lat: 148.591244, -34.643491
- Description:
-
Area dominated by some 6-7 metre high tombstone-looking boulders, with a few terrifying and lovely highballs.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Timberlake's last dance
A shorter warm-up for the area, head straight up the off-widthy crack to a low topout. FA: Constantine Carluen, 2012 | V0 | 3m | |||||
| 2 |
The most obvious line that strikes you as you make your way up to the boulders. This line takes the incipient seam with insecure crack holds and the arete upwards (using the crack/boulder to the left if you need to). And it's overhung too. Very tensiony, technical but not too powerful moves for the grade. Very nearly saw a FA on the first visit to it, but Bruno had a brainfreeze. Grade varies depending on how you approach it. The further you go out left with your body and the more you use the arete, the easier it gets. The purest line sent so far uses two holds on the arete, two sections of the seam and tops out direct with feet on the front of the boulder. It's possible there's a much harder climb for someone with finger(nail)s of steel using just the seam. FA: Constantine Carluen, 2012 FA: David Nott, 2012 | V4 to V5 | 5m | |||||
| 3 |
Up the right hand side of the boulder through 'HIV??' and then traverse left on slopers with good spotters to finish up 'Deep Freeze'. In true internet tradition, someone flapped in and crapped all over this one! FA: Roscoe2, 2013 | V4 to V5 | 5m | |||||
| 4 |
A reasonably difficult leftways-leaning crack that won't take jams all the way. Hard start, quite technical. Difficulty depends on whether you can manage a high step for the first move. Otherwise the feet are atrocious! FA: Ian Phillips, 2012 | V4 to V5 | 4m | |||||
| 5 |
Crack gets the majority of the run-off after rain so it'll probably need gardening if you want to jump on this. Hard moves up an insecure crack. Top currently needs a bit of cleaning up. FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012 | V4 | 4m | |||||
| 6 |
I looked, and behold, a pale rock. Straddled upon it... Compression moves up a blunt arete to top out at jugs over a very airy landing. This one is an absolute cracker - requires great body tension, technical moves on tenuous holds and good concentration, not to mention good skin! The full line will involve some very heady moves, particularly if done 'pure' without the assistance of the boulder to the left. There was some question before it was attempted whether it would even be possible given the apparent spacing of the holds. It definitely goes, but it sure ain't easy. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V7 | 6m |
David Nott 7 months ago
| ||||
| 7 |
I Rolled a 4
An unfortunate chimney start owing to a lack of holds bar two well-spaced pockets that won't get you anywhere. From there, a traverse across the face on a rail will get you to safety. It's not the lowest climb around though... A few deep breaths on all counts when this was sent. FA: Chris Maciejowski, 2012 | V3 | 6m | |||||
| 8 |
To be done
Straight up the front of the boulder using compression slaps. | V0 to V1 | 3m | |||||
| 9 |
BreathMonster
The chimney start. Get right inside and go up to the top without using any of the juggy footers around. Actually a bit of a lark. FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012 | V0 to V1 | 3m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 10 |
Non Rope Monkey
A rising traverse of the boulder from the end, out through the roof on the left side of the boulder and up. Might take a bit to clean up properly. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V1 | 3m | |||||
| 11 |
Watch My Ankles
Straight up through the body of the boulder. Bit of a downhill landing. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V0 | 3m | |||||
| 12 |
Muno Brars
Very morphological. Grading is honesty based, somewhere between V0 and V3 depending on your size. Sit start under the roof, lock off with your right hand in the crack then chuck a big move out left to a glory jug. Not terribly wonderful, to be honest. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V1 | 3m | |||||
| 13 |
Cankles
Not wonderful. Enough holds to get up, use it as a warmup. The boulder to the left of the tombstones facing up the hill. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V0 | 4m | |||||
| 14 |
Silk Pouches
Up from a needless sit start staying right of the crack line and topping out. Stay away from flake to the right, it could break. FA: Christopher Lean, 2013 | V0+ | 5m |
Christopher Lean 3 weeks ago
| ||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 15 |
Slowpoke
Near to the tombstones themselves (up and right when looking up the hill). From a sit start, huck a biiiig move to the top. FA: Ian Phillips, 2012 | V2 | 3m |
David Nott 8 months ago
| ||||
| 16 |
Crack Fiend
On the boulder just to the right of 'I Rolled a 4'. From a sit, head up the arete using the crack to establish yourself. FA: Ian Carter, 2012 | V0 | 4m | |||||
| 17 |
Shitting Chalk
Eliminate - as for 'Crack Fiend' but stick to the arete and avoid the crack. FA: Ian Carter, 2012 | V2 | 4m | |||||
| 18 |
Resouled
Up through thin feet and hands to a juggy topout. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V1 | 4m | |||||
| 19 |
Death of 35 Cuts
Start for 'Resouled' then top out right. FA: Georgia Marjoribanks, 2012 | V1 | 4m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 20 |
Double White Lines
Walk up the boulder. FA: Georgia Marjoribanks, 2012 | VB | 3m | |||||
1.2. Front and Sector 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Long/Lat: 148.586622, -34.641911
- Description:
-
The main sector, right in front of the parking area / gate.
- Approach:
-
15 minutes straight uphill. Where the boulders start is where the sector starts.
- History:
-
Developed by David Nott, Ben Davies and Constantine Carluen.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Pork Boy
Sit-start matched on a flat depression. Crank out right through a few moves using a heel hook high up to get you onto a small incut and sidepull, then up and over. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V3 | 2m | |||||
| 2 |
Sit start at the left end of the boulder with poor feet. Use very poor sloper holds to establish a heel hook, then head out right, through a difficult move which will require you to cut feet. The rock just below the traverse is out. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V5 | 2m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 3 |
Lichen Warriors
Project - lowball bumdrag, but it's undercut, has some friable holds (it's going to get harder) and good luck with your feet. Something to warm up or play around on. | V4 | 1m | |||||
| 4 |
Fustercluck
Straight up the front of the boulder, through the pocket and out. Easy. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V0 | 4m | |||||
| 5 |
Two Handfuls of Clover
Standing at 'Pinky Flapper', reach up to the pocket, yawn, check the time, pepper your neighbour's lawn with his clover, then trend slightly left through past some big pockets and wish you were living elsewhere. FA: Ben "Brrrrrrp" Davies, 2012 | V0- | 4m | |||||
| 6 |
Quite nice. Sit start using a combination of sidepulls or a very shallow incut crack. Crank up to a heel hook position using a nice sidepull, lock off, pray to Jesus, then slap out very far right to a glory pocket from an insecure position, then up. FA: Ben "Windy" Davies, 2012 | V4 | 3m | |||||
| 7 |
From the same start as 'Pinky Flapper', reach up to the pocket and vague pinch and get your feet set. A fair sized move out to a small incut sidepull, then up using friction and mantle on good holds. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V2 | 3m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 8 |
Project 1
V1 or V2, just a poor landing. Up through some poor scoops and friction moves. | |||||||
| 9 |
Project 2
Up through an easy crack, likely to be V0. | |||||||
1.3. The Lowlands 51 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Boulder
Long/Lat: 148.595068, -34.643806
- Description:
-
Below the hill proper is a low-lying area with yet more boulders (surprise!). Most of the boulders here are quite mossy and may need a clean up to be sent. The jewel of the crown is a small sub-area with an 8 metre boulder that has a viciously overhung/undercut section, with another boulder nearby that would top the 6 metre mark. The area is described roughly running down the ridge and then left to right looking up towards the crown of the lower crest.
The dividing line between this and the 'Tombstone Ridge' is a gully lying between the smaller and larger hill, with a broken down fence.
- Approach:
-
Right of the Tombstones looking from the first parking area, otherwise if you're coming from the second parking area head up and over the hill or down the hill from the first flat part of the road a few hundred metres away from the radar array.
- Descent Notes:
-
It is possible to walk off the back of the boulder containing 'Limpy McCrippleton', if you're happy to climb the 8 metres to get there.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Actions Speak Louder
Up the arete from a stand. Hold that left sidecling! FA: David Nott, 2012 | V2 | 4m |
Luke 2 days ago
| ||||
| 2 |
Nothing For Paddy
Just a warmup, nothing special. Up through easy moves following the crack to the top, do some laps if you feel like it. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V0- | 4m |
Luke 2 days agoRob Knight 2 days ago
| ||||
| 3 |
Mossy Ferguson
Sit start. Some good holds but it's still tricky getting off the ground with the poor feet available. You can easily make this harder but if you do it right it should be a 0. One of a group of good warmups for the harder stuff down the hill. FA: Ian Carter, 2012 | V0 | 3m |
Luke 2 days agoDavid Nott 9 months ago
| ||||
| 4 |
Florence Nightingale
Sit start. Up through a flake (photo's already old, some of the flake got destroyed) then top out. Another warmup. Other side of the boulder from 'Mossy Ferguson'. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V1 | 3m |
Luke 2 days agoDavid Nott 9 months ago
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 5 |
Dirty Socks
Up past a nice flake from a sit start. Another warmup. FA: Ian Carter, 2012 | V1 | 3m |
Luke 2 days ago
| ||||
| 6 |
Nose Rage
This climb shed more holds than you'd think possible. Up from a fairly horizontal position (sit start) using some ankle strength to get you to the top. Pretty contrived, big rock in the way. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V2 | 3m |
Luke 2 days agoDavid Nott 9 months ago
| ||||
| 7 |
Ejaculator
Up from the underclings and jugs and head left to top out (ideally, don't walk out onto the slab on the far left). FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012 | V2 | 4m | |||||
| 8 |
Undercling and up
Straight up from underclings. Contrived, because there's jugs just above... | V2 | 4m |
Luke 2 days agoRob Knight 2 days ago
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| 9 |
The Breakdance Kid
Up through a now busted flake on some very balancy and difficult moves. There's a small rail on your left and the feet suck. Be careful of the flake, the rest may still tear away and it's a very big chunk of rock that could hurt you or your spotter. Watch how you lever against it - preferably not straight out from the rock. FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012 | V4 | 4m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 10 |
Todd's Frog
Couple metres away from 'The Breakdance Kid' boulder. A very surprising little sit start that looks dead easy but requires some technical heel hooking and is pretty bodymorphic and hippy. Take whatever grade it feels like because it'll vary depending on your size. FA: Jin Jin Cong, 2012 | V2 | 3m |
Rob Knight 2 days ago
| ||||
| 11 |
Mossy project 1
Over the hill from the little starting area of boulders. Will require a fair bit of cleaning. | |||||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 12 | Mossy project 2 | |||||||
| 13 |
Birdy project 1
Just to the right when looking uphill of the 'Limpy McCrippleton' boulder. Big dirt mounds on the underside indicative of birds? Looks good but need to check whether these actually are nests. | |||||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 14 | Waspy project 2 | |||||||
| 15 |
All Good
Up the right side of the boulder through good holds but over a poor landing. The mantel is a bit sketchy, but should be better once it cleans up a bit more. FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012 | V2 | 3m | |||||
| 16 | Overhung project 1 | |||||||
| 17 |
All Booked Up
Up the arete. Some tenuous moves to get around the corner on solid sidepulls. One of the few climbs that didn't have an exploding hold on the day... FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012 | V1 | 4m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 18 | Project B1 | |||||||
| 19 |
Project B2
FA: Luke Koehler, 2013 | V4 |
Luke 2 days agoRob Knight 2 days ago
| |||||
| 20 |
Project B3
Sit start and traverse left. FA: Luke Koehler, 2013 | V3 |
Luke 2 days ago
| |||||
| 21 |
Project B4
Sit start. FA: Luke Koehler, 2013 | V1 |
Luke 2 days agoRob Knight 2 days ago
| |||||
| 22 |
Project B5
FA: Luke Koehler, 2013 | V2 |
Luke 2 days agoRob Knight 2 days ago
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 23 | Prow project |
Luke 2 days ago
| ||||||
| 24 | Crack project | V0 | 3m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 25 |
Barney Gumble left
Stand start on a reasonable size pocket for your right hand and a smaller pocket or crimp for your left. High step if you can for an easier start on the incut/remains of the flake. Head up for a good incut rail then left and done. FA: Barney Gumble, 2012 | V2 | 4m |
Luke 2 days ago
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| 26 |
Really the direct version. Straight up on good, but quite spaced holds. FA: Ben Davies, 2012 | V2 | 4m |
Luke 2 days agoRob Knight 2 days ago
| ||||
| 27 |
Gas project
Sit start the boulder from underclings and up. Pretty hard. | 4m | ||||||
| 28 |
Insecurity Symphony
Straight up through insecure sidepulls and slopers. Techy. The rock on this boulder is a lot more polished than others nearby. | 6m | ||||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 29 |
Domestic Duties
Up the flat side of the boulder from a sit start. Pretty nice. Still needs some cleaning up, a bit mossy up top. FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012 | V2 | 3m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 30 |
Buddeh
Found on the side of the boulder to the left of the 'Limpy McCrippleton' boulder, when looking uphill. 'Oh, this should be a nice little warmup' ... Apparently not. Grading is honesty based - if you start too high up, this is more like V2. Start with your feet as low as possible using the notch for your right hand and side-cling for left hand. danger - be careful of the massive flake, it may detach! I may reinforce it. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V5 | 4m |
Scott Pearce 2 weeks agoIan Phillips 8 months ago
| ||||
| 31 |
Unknown
A hardish dyno. FA unknown at this stage . Will add more details when known/tried. Topo line may be incorrect. | V4 | 4m | |||||
| 32 |
Traverse project
Traverse the front side of the boulder and up, on good holds. | V2 to V3 | ||||||
| 33 |
Ben's project
Bit of an eliminate. Follow vague holds up, then bail off left. | |||||||
| 34 |
Hasbeen Army
Left hand variant to 'Limpy McCrippleton'. Boulder up and over the sloper rail with a few deadpoint moves and some very interesting footing. This is your first point for gear. Bring some mats or a spotter if you don't want to go rolling down the hill. Up and through the weakness to the top. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V3 | 8m |
David Nott 9 months ago
| ||||
| 35 |
A two-move wonder, on a 30 degree overhung boulder (more like 40 for the sit). Start with left hand in the incut undercling (pretty good) and right hand in the notch. Right foot on a half-toe foetus of an incut, then shift your left leg up to a sideways heel hook. Deep breath then dyno up to a sloper ledge. Hold it right at the end of the slopers and match, and you can drop off, or you can keep going for the full route and scare yourself silly. Around V6. The sit start goes a few ways, though it's spoiled pretty badly by the rock right underneath which makes the sit pretty annoying to execute. Other variants are recorded, for the V6 start sit on the boulder or just stand start using the undercling. FA: David Nott, 2012 FA: Ian Phillips, 2012 | V6 | 8m |
Ian Phillips 8 months agoDavid Nott 9 months ago
| ||||
| 36 |
Sit start to the left of the boulder underneath Limpy. Extremely hard moves to start. | V8 | 8m | |||||
| 37 |
Possibly one grade harder than Limpy according to the FA. Follow the crack up and through the rest of the problem. FA: Ian Phillips, 2013 | V6 to V7 | 8m | |||||
| 38 |
Desparatron project
From right underneath the boulder, find a way to crank out and up. | |||||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 39 |
Sanchez Spray
Burly sit start off opposing holds using a reasonable left hand rail and a nasty right hand crimp. Gotta look hard for them feet. Not a good warmup! But lowball at least. This could be your hardest V1 send ever ! | V6 | 3m |
David Nott 9 months ago
| ||||
| 40 |
Sanchez Spray stand
Standing start, head up and slightly right. High step the small incut and it's a bit easier. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V2 | 3m | |||||
| 41 |
An awesome, sequency and technical climb up through some good holds to a scoop, pinch and crimp with the option of a very sharp sidecling to help you through. A good little number. Was going to be Paddy's first first ascent here, but he didn't have enough gas left. FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012 | V2 to V3 | 4m | |||||
| 42 |
Paddy Power
Up the left side of the boulder when looking uphill. Not hard, but not bad either. FA: Ian Carter, 2012 | V0 | 4m | |||||
| 43 |
T proj
Same boulder as 'Paddy Power'. Not too hard (but harder with yet another flake gone) - just need to clean up the top. | V1 | 4m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 44 |
Gas Terrorist
Sit start. Up and over. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V0 | 3m |
David Nott 7 months ago
| ||||
| 45 |
Butt Custard
Sit start. Left hand on sloper or high, right hand in the pocket. Feet are poor. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V1 | 3m | |||||
| 46 |
Sporto Attack
Sit start. Up and over! FA: David Nott, 2012 | V0 | 3m | |||||
| 47 |
Goebbels
Sit start left side arete. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V0 | 3m | |||||
| 48 |
Himmler
Sit start using the rail. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V0- | 3m | |||||
| 49 |
The SS
Sit start and move left to the rail. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V0 | 3m | |||||
| 50 |
Baying of the Hounds
Tenuous feet. Sit start and head up, then traverse right to top out. Left heel hook optional. Hold broke during FA so possibly a little harder. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V4 | 3m |
David Nott 7 months ago
| ||||
| 51 |
Sunday Drivers
Start on the underclings for Buddeh and move right to the sloper and up through the crimps. FA: S Pearce, 2013 | V2 | 3m | |||||
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1.4. Radar Highlands 71 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Boulder
Long/Lat: 148.589580, -34.641323
- Description:
-
The area near to the radar array itself. This sector comprises the high parts of the hill to the left of the Tombstones when you look up the hill from the base. As you head north, it's everything before the broken fence which looks electrified but is broken in many places.
- Approach:
-
If you park at the top you are metres away from some established climbs, downhill.
|
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Alco's Wet Dream
A proud line striking upwards seven metres above the ground and over a roughly 10 metre, wretched fall with a good chance of a roll down the hill afterward. There are no bolts on this climb, and the first ascensionist requests you keep it that way. The lower crack will take some natural protection, but peters out at around the four metre mark. You may be able to fiddle something in above the shaky flake. There's a shaky flake, by the way. Two cruxes - the start and the little rooflet. Don't go left or right at the rooflet unless you want to shake out. This is the main line - start from the ground up a bit of a compression boulder problem, not on top of the boulder in front! Top out, enjoy the mantle. FA: David Nott, 2012 | 17 V2 | 7m | |||||
| 2 |
Alco's Wet Dream pussy variant
A proud line striking upwards seven metres above the ground and over a roughly 10 metre, wretched fall with a good chance of a roll down the hill afterward. There are no bolts on this climb, and the first ascensionist requests you keep it that way. The lower crack will take some natural protection, but peters out at around the four metre mark. You may be able to fiddle something in above the shaky flake. There's a shaky flake, by the way. One crux- the little rooflet. Don't go left or right at the rooflet. As it's the pussy variant, you can use the boulder in front to avoid the beginning boulder problem. Pussy. Easy enough to set up a top-rope. Top out. FA: David Nott, 2012 | 14 V0 | 6m | |||||
| 3 |
Drunken POS
A meaningless amble up some massive jugs which avoids all the fun of the problem to the right. FA: David Nott, 2012 | 11 | 6m | |||||
| 4 |
Paddy Got Potatoes
Looks easy, doesn't it? Then you realise it's stacked hand and fists to start, with a lovely drop onto a hard granite slab if you do anything wrong, and the crack widens as you go, making it a full offwidth experience with the extra spice of possibly having to roll down a hill if you fall. Easy enough if you layback and avoid using the crack, but around V1 if you go at it full offwidth style. FA: Ian Carter, 2012 | V0 to V1 | 4m | |||||
| 5 |
Project 6
Straight up the slab. | |||||||
| 6 |
Project 5
Follow the under/sidecling rail all the way up. Burly. | |||||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 7 | Project L | |||||||
| 8 |
Project K
Straight up the overhung section of the boulder with holds facing mostly the wrong way. Gonna be hardish. | |||||||
| 9 |
Chicks Don't Fart
Up the easy crack with big jugs to help you out. Hard to fall out of! FA: David Nott, 2012 | V0- | ||||||
| 10 |
Myth Busted
Up the chimney. Another one for the kids. FA: David Nott, 2012 | VB+ | 4m | |||||
| 11 | Project D | |||||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 12 | Project B | |||||||
| 13 |
Creative Bloc
Sit start and up the easy bloc. FA: Ben Davies, 2013 | V0- | 3m | |||||
| 14 |
Mental Bloc
Stand start, up the face. FA: David Nott, 2013 | V0 | 3m | |||||
| 15 |
Clean It as you Send It
Sit start and up, cleaning as you go! FA: Honza, 2013 | V0 | 4m | |||||
| 16 |
One Heel One Slap
Another warmup. Sit start. FA: Ben Dacies, 2013 | V0- | 4m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 17 |
YoungDumb
Start from down low, huck a huge move out left to get started on the rail, feet are very poor, need a few spotters and mats to get this guy done. Not 7 metres tall, but about that long. | V5 | 7m | |||||
| 18 |
Youngdumb the Shorter
A longer traverse along the boulder but not the full deal. | V3 | 5m | |||||
| 19 |
Poopsicles
A shorter variant of the traverse for 'YoungDumb''. Start at the end of the boulder, traverse left until it starts becoming thin on feet and mantle up at a rail/pocket then finish via the easy slab. FA: David Nott, 2013 | V2 | 5m | |||||
| 20 |
Die Already
Extremely overhung (for granite) and likely to give someone a workout. | |||||||
| 21 |
Nerd Rage
Sit start the left side. Lovely topout. Not bad. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V2 | 2m | |||||
| 22 |
What You Need to Do
Sit start the right side. Big jugs, goes easy enough. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V0 | 2m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 23 |
Parkinsons
Nice high slab with jugs to top out. Can't ask more than that. FA: Ross Parkin, 2012 | V1 | 5m | |||||
| 24 |
On The Phone
Right of 'Parkinsons' but sharing some real estate. Mossy currently. FA: Chris Maciejowski, 2012 | V2 | 5m | |||||
| 25 |
Walk the Line
Up through easy territory. FA: Georgia Marjoribanks, 2012 | V0- | 3m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 26 |
Neener
Slabbing again! Balancy but not hard. FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012 | V1 | 4m | |||||
| 27 |
Mace
Up the body of the boulder. Techy feet. FA: Chris Maciejowski, 2012 | V2 | 4m | |||||
| 28 |
Cranium Check
Stick to the arete as closely as possible and make your way to an interesting topout. FA: Chris Maciejowski, 2012 | V1 | 5m | |||||
| 29 |
Worth it? Maybe.
Sit start on the attached flake, lay back using only it then go for the top. FA: Christopher Lean, 2013 | V0- | 2m |
Christopher Lean 3 weeks ago
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| 30 |
To the Loser, Spoils
Sit start. | V0- | 2m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 31 |
Snail Rail
Sit start on the bottom of the rail moving up, try and use only the rail before moving to the top. Fun if you are waiting for a pad. FA: Christopher Lean, 2013 | V0- | 3m |
Christopher Lean 3 weeks ago
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| 32 |
Easy Way Out
Start as high as possible and thereby avoid all the difficult stuff. FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012 | V1 | 4m | |||||
| 33 |
Lest We Forget / Miss You Old Man
The low stand start to 'Easy Way Out' from the poor underclings. Up from a very hard move to top out from underclings onto the rail. You can move to the intermediate pinchy grip and it's about a 5 or pull yourself in close to the boulder and huck a big throw and it's a soft 6. The only climb I'm going to name here that doesn't have a satirical theme. FA: David Nott, 2013 | V5 to V6 | 4m |
David Nott 3 weeks ago
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| 34 |
Undercling project 2
The sit start to 'Easy Way Out'. Unfortunately requires a few stacked mats to get going, so quite contrived. Very hard on the biceps - at virtually full reach, use the rail and poor underclings to get off the ground, then execute as per the harder variant of 'Lest We Forget'. Possibly one for the future generations... | V8 | 4m | |||||
| 35 | Egg Project 1 | |||||||
| 36 | Egg Project 2 | |||||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 37 |
Day Too Long
A hard sit start from a side-cling with the left hand, incut for the right and a heel hook. Just leave your left foot dangling... FA: David Nott, 2013 | V4 | 2m |
David Nott 3 weeks ago
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| 38 |
Billy Bilby's Birthday Belch
Up through easy and juggy holds. FA: Ben Davies, 2012 | V0- | 4m | |||||
| 39 |
Carry-On Boulder
Up using the flake (hard to ignore, really) through easy and good holds. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V0 | 4m | |||||
| 40 |
Jon Spencer's Belch Explosion
Another easy one on this boulder. FA: Ben Davies, 2012 | V0 | 4m | |||||
| 41 |
Effafirey
Bit height dependent as to the grade. Up through a compression move is closer to 3, or work to the high step first and it's more like 2. Good moves. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V2 to V3 | 4m |
David Nott 7 months ago
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| 42 |
Dr Weevil
Hard 4 or easier 5, bit difficult to say. Some balancy moves on small foot and hand holds will get you to a finish jug. If you have enough energy, execute. FA: David Nott, 2013 | V4 to V5 | 4m |
David Nott 7 weeks agoDavid Nott 7 months ago
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 43 |
Dodgy Rodge
A hard sit-start using side clings/compressive holds to a much juggier top-out. Getting your feet under you won't be as easy at it looks, but it isn't the hard part. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V5 | 3m | |||||
| 44 |
Marvin
Brain the size of a planet, and I'm stuck bouldering... Start holds are left hand sidecling and right hand pinch (sit start). FA: David Nott, 2012 | V2 | 3m |
Ken 10 weeks ago
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| 45 |
Falls to Ground Masturbating
Needs gardening (removal of a boulder at the sit) before this can be sent. A granite, sit-start, CAVE problem. Yes, you start fully horizontal. Will be a hard one if someone puts in the work to clean up the sit area. Otherwise it's a fairly poor problem. | V8 | 5m |
David Nott 7 months ago
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| 46 |
Bogan City
take me down past a Bogan City, where the grass is green but the girls ain't pretty... Grade depends on where you start. Lowest handholds are harder, adding a move or two to the problem. Originally more like 4-5 for the techy rockover topout on tiny holds, but one of the holds exploded making it easier! Two cruxes marked on topo to reflect position of starting holds depending on the difficulty - lower is harder. FA: Ben Davies, 2012 | V3 to V4 | 3m |
David Nott 7 months ago
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| 47 |
Just One Fix
Right hand variant to 'Bogan City'. Sit start to the right using the pocket with your right hand and huck your way up. FA: David Nott, 2013 | V2 | 3m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 48 |
A nice amble up an arete. FA: Ben Davies, 2012 | V0 | 4m | |||||
| 49 |
Booark! Whoops!
Tackle the face of the boulder then top out up the arete. FA: Ben Davies, 2012 | V1 | 4m | |||||
| 50 |
Booark! Mantle!
Up through the face of the boulder left of 'Booark! Jesus!'. Looks very easy but there's not much there and the mantle is techy for the grade. FA: Ben Davies, 2012 | V0+ | 4m | |||||
| 51 |
Prawn
Put on your sandshoes and walk up the slab. FA: David Nott, 2012 | VB- | 3m | |||||
| 52 |
Bacon Eggsplosion
Another one for the kids! FA: Ben Davies, 2012 | VB- | 3m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 53 |
Gritty Gash
Follow the arete avoiding getting into the crack. Top out on reasonable holds. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V0 | 4m | |||||
| 54 | Middle Project | 4m | ||||||
| 55 |
Snowjob
Up through good holds to a fairly non-juggy topout! FA: David Nott, 2012 | V1 | 4m | |||||
| 56 |
Queen Laqueefa
A sit start on good holds that goes into a technical rock-over on a tiny foothold. V3+ - hard to grade at the end of the day! FA: David Nott, 2012 | V3 | 3m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 57 |
Free Hugs
Up the crack. FA: David Johnston, 2012 | V1 | 4m | |||||
| 58 |
Rush of Blood
Up through small holds. Technical, using a thumb press/side cling. Easier version would be to head right at the break but you pretty much end up doing 'Second Marriage' and can give up a grade for it. FA: Roscoe2, 2013 | V3 to V4 | 6m | |||||
| 59 |
Second Marriage
Requires a little commitment through the overlap. Small holds, but use the pocket for your feet and you'll get through. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V2 to V3 | 4m | |||||
| 60 | Project AB | |||||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 61 |
Wussburger
Up and head right through big holds onto the ledge then up and over on good holds. FA: Daniel McGlinchey, 2012 | V0- | 5m | |||||
| 62 |
Project AC
note - top needs cleaning, pretty dangerous as is with lots of loose flakes Up using sideclings to a pocket and a poor rail, then up through small jugs with crap feet and top out. | V4 | 5m | |||||
| 63 |
Project AD
Up and into the scoop through very poor holds. | |||||||
| 64 |
Layhack
Up laybacking the flake with feet to the right then topout. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V0- | 4m | |||||
| 65 |
Project AE
Up and into the scoop through very poor holds. | |||||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 66 |
Project AF
Climb the arete. | |||||||
| 67 |
Project AG
Up the body of the boulder. | |||||||
| 68 |
Mad Man
Another lowball sit-start. Start right at the arete and throw to a rail for left hand, then up and over. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V2 | 2m | |||||
| 69 |
Madder Man
Left variant of 'Mad Man'. Sit start the body of the boulder using compression and throw to the top then top out. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V2 | 2m | |||||
| 70 |
Stupid Man
Eliminate. As for 'Mad Man', but keep feet above the slabby lower part of the boulder. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V3 | 2m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 71 |
Another Walkup
Walk up the side. FA: Daniel McGlinchey, 2012 | V0- | 3m | |||||
1.5. Deadies Sector 24 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Boulder
Long/Lat: 148.589299, -34.641948
- Description:
-
This is a sector just like the Tombstones. Where boulders in other parts of the hill have scary and diagonal landings, less clustering, this is an area with a high concentration of good and some very hard lines, not to mention the occasional flat landing!!
- Approach:
-
This is downhill from the radar, almost directly. You'll know when you're there when you find 3 boulders in a nice line, with the majestic 8-9 metre boulder in the metre inviting the brave to try their luck.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Project C | |||||||
| 2 | Project E | |||||||
| 3 | Project vague crack | 7m | ||||||
| 4 | Project left side | 8m | ||||||
| 5 |
Project F
This one's gonna be a doozy! 9 metres high - will it go? It's got pockets! | 9m | ||||||
| 6 |
Project OW
Thought to go from a sit start, exfoliating flakes - the usual Bobbara fare - have left a brutal stand start to be done on poor crimps and huge compressive moves. | V10 | 6m |
David Nott 2 weeks ago
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| 7 |
Project G
Sit start the crack line. Through some brutal moves into the crack, where it eases off to V5ish to the top. | V9 | 7m | |||||
| 8 |
Project G stand
Stand start the crack. Easy enough moves technically but very physical with a real head check topout. | V5 | 7m |
David Nott 2 weeks ago
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 9 |
Nude Golf Karting
Sit down, grab the big rail, walk up the boulder. FA: Ben Davies, 2013 | VB+ | 2m | |||||
| 10 |
Nude Golf Project
As per NGK but use only the slopers to start. Contrived? Yes. Hard? A bit. | V2 | 2m | |||||
| 11 |
Skunk Stripe
Takes a harder, slightly contrived line up the bulge to the R of Nude Golf Karting. Sit start with L hand in the rail, R hand further right. Straight up to sloping pockets and rock over. FA: Ben Davies, 2013 | V2 | 2m | |||||
| 12 |
Honza 1
To be given a proper name. Sit start and up. FA: Honza, 2013 | V0 | ||||||
| 13 |
Bye Bye Flakes
Honza managed to nab the first ascent of this about 73 times after various bits of rock broke off! FA: Honza, 2013 | V2 | 3m | |||||
| 14 |
Can't Find My Way
The easiest way to do this short sit start problem is V2. You can of course eliminate heel hooks, the use of multiple hands etc and call it harder. FA: David Nott, 2013 | V2 | 3m |
David Nott 2 weeks ago
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 15 |
Hold Fluffer
Stand start on the left arete and up. FA: David Nott, 2013 | V1 | 3m | |||||
| 16 |
Thought to be easier by the FA, this sit start problem with poor feet and almost no handholds - very rare for granite, volcanic tuff and suchlike - was given V4 by attempted repeaters. FA: David Nott, 2013 | V4 | 3m |
David Nott 2 weeks ago
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| 17 |
Sit start as for 'Shartitude' and execute an insanely big dyno from there to the sloper dish, WITHOUT ANY INTERMEDIATES. From there, an easy topout. This is a German word which indicates follow-through. | V8 | 3m |
David Nott 2 weeks ago
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| 18 |
Poopagoo
Stand start. Crap on Magoo's hat and up. FA: David Nott, 2013 | V1 | 3m | |||||
| 19 |
Dick Smear
Sit start and up on the easier side of the boulder. FA: Honza, 2013 | V0 | 5m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 20 |
Balancy and a little thought-provoking slabbing with just the right amount of shallow pockets. Sit start. FA: Ben Davies, 2013 | V1 | 5m | |||||
| 21 | Project I | |||||||
| 22 | Project H | |||||||
| 23 |
Last Drinks
Sit start and up and over. FA: Ben Davies, 2013 | V0 | 3m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 24 |
Mantle Project
Start on the rail underneath the chockstone and pull out and over the top for the mantle. Only use holds and footers on the chockstone itself and not on the boulders on either side. | |||||||
1.6. Tombstone Ridge 48 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Boulder
Long/Lat: 148.592430, -34.642734
- Description:
-
The ridge heading upwards towards the road from the Tombstones proper.
- Approach:
-
Pretty much walk down the most grassy (and easy) slope you can find from about midway up the hill.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Taken For Granite
Up the right side of the slab through easier terrain. FA: Georgia Marjoribanks, 2012 | V0- | 3m | |||||
| 2 |
Silence... I Keel You
Up the slab through some slightly more balancy holds, topping out left of 'Taken For Granite'. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V0 | 3m | |||||
| 3 |
Paddy Marley
Likely one of quite a few lines/variants on this immaculate slab. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V1 | 4m | |||||
| 4 |
Dyno project
From a stand already high in the air, dyno to the lip and mantel up. A lot harder mentally than physically, might want to give it a go on top-rope. No spotting possible. | 7m | ||||||
| 5 |
T-Rex
Up through the crack to a jug and top out to the right. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V0 | 5m | |||||
| 6 |
Blood In, Blood Out
An easy problem on the face. Sit-start yet to go. FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012 | V0 | 5m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 7 |
An overhung crack (by 20+ degrees) - short but a bit goey as it's not very jammable. An awesome line worth jumping on though, quite technical. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V4 | 5m |
David Nott 8 months ago
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| 8 |
English Invasion
Easily up past a very big flake. FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012 | V0 | 4m | |||||
| 9 |
Omo (right)
From a standing start, latch a pinch with your right hand and whatever you can reach with your left. Deadpoint up to a flake then up and over. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V2 | 4m | |||||
| 10 |
Omo (left)
As for Omo right, but head out left over an insecure mantel. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V3 | 4m | |||||
| 11 |
NEAD
Another Omo variant! How many washing powders can you get? Start as for Omo then head far right through easy terrain over the big flake. FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012 | V1 | 4m | |||||
| 12 |
Road to Nowhere
Flashed on the first ascent. Start on a crimp rail and crimp sidepull. Tension your way across right and then up to finish as for Omo. Technical and fingery. FA: Ian Phillips, 2012 | V4 | 4m |
David Nott 7 weeks ago
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| 13 |
Dancing Gums
Up over the slab. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V0- | 4m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 14 |
Soul Stealer
Up using the right side arete. For best value, huck a big throw to the top from as low as possible. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V0 | 4m | |||||
| 15 |
Meat Rat
Fridge hug your way up using both aretes. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V0+ | 4m | |||||
| 16 |
Seany Pawny
Up using the left side arete. FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012 | V1 | 4m | |||||
| 17 |
Trust Me
Start on two crimps on the face (hard start) then up and over. Arete is out. FA: Ian Phillips, 2012 | V4 | 4m | |||||
| 18 |
Pain in the Face
Up through some poor holds till you can get your feet set then out to finish right. FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012 | V3 | 4m | |||||
| 19 |
Off Your Face
As per 'Pain in the Face' but finish directly up following the blunt arete rather than escaping right. FA: Ian Phillips, 2012 | V4 | 4m | |||||
| 20 |
Princess Down
Up the arete. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V1 | 4m | |||||
| 21 |
Center Project
After a few holds exploded what is left is a brutal crimp start to get onto a few poor side clings then somehow make your way up the face. There's not so much holds on this as there are vague tiny scoops and indents in the rock. | V8 | 4m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 22 |
Don't Wanna Go To School
A bizarre sit start problem that is very body-morphic! True mantel practice. FA: Constantine Carluen, 2012 | V1 | 2m | |||||
| 23 |
Whose Line Is It Anyway
Sit start around the corner from 'Don't Wanna Go To School'. FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012 | V0 | 4m | |||||
| 24 |
Bal-lay-FL
A hard sit start using the right sidecling and a higher pocket for the left hand. Atrocious feet. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V3 | 4m | |||||
|
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 25 | V3 project? | |||||||
| 26 |
Gnat
Left hand side of the boulder. FA: Ben Davies, 2012 | V1 | 3m | |||||
| 27 |
Humpa
Fridge hug your way up using the crack for your left hand and the arete for your right hand. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V2 | 4m | |||||
| 28 |
Crack Hoer
Straight up the crack. Overhung, but far easier than it looks. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V0 to V1 | 4m |
David Nott 8 months ago
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| 29 |
Routed
Up the slab, avoiding the sides. FA: Chris Lamb, 2012 | V1 | 4m |
Chris 8 months ago
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 30 |
Major Banks
Up and top out. A slab. FA: Georgia Marjoribanks, 2012 | V0 | 4m | |||||
| 31 |
Banks are the Devil
'Nother slab. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V1 | 4m | |||||
| 32 |
Trish is the Best
Head up the slab. FA: Trish Parkin, 2012 | V0 to V1 | 4m | |||||
| 33 |
Aheron
Up the slab with graceful, bird-like steps. FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012 | V2 | 4m | |||||
| 34 |
Egg Sandwiches / Who Farted?
A very hard sit-start with a ludicrously poor upside-down incut pinch and a right hand pinch to start. Throw to a rail and from there execute much easier moves to top out. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V7 | 3m |
David Nott 8 months ago
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| 35 |
Who the ... is Alice?
From a low start, follow the arete up and top out as for 'Egg Sandwiches'. FA: Chris Maciejowski, 2012 | V4 | 4m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 36 |
Non-Masonic Handshake
Hard sit start off a very poor right hand and a small incut for your left hand. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V4 | 3m |
David Nott 8 months ago
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| 37 |
Snot Bubbles LH
Up from a sit to an intermediate and onto a rail. Top out. FA: David Nott, 2013 | V2 | 3m | |||||
| 38 |
Snot Bubbles RH
Sit start. Up through a small crimp for your right hand direct to a rail up high and top out. FA: David Nott, 2013 | V3 | 3m | |||||
| 39 |
Traverse project
Follow the line of underclings or stay under the main body of the boulder. Height is for the length of the traverse. | 6m | ||||||
| 40 |
One Deadlift
Sit start direct and up. Odd moves, hard to get the sequence right. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V3 | 4m | |||||
| 41 |
Lost on Bi-Curious Island
Up through the centre of the boulder on okayish holds. A bit techy, need a bit of jiggery pokery and the rock's a bit sharp too! FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012 | V3 | 4m | |||||
| 42 |
Ride a Bushie
Right hand variant/eliminate - stay right of the crack and use the slopers/slimpers to make your way up. FA: Roscoe2, 2013 | V3 | 3m | |||||
| 43 |
Lack of Inhibition
Sit start from the underclings. A hold broke off recently making this quite a bit easier. Stand goes around V0. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V1 | 3m | |||||
| 44 |
Fuck You Sleet
From the far left of the boulder, traverse above the crack line on slopers. Two ways to do this - easier if you go up to the rail and then the chicken-head, harder if you match at the low, poor incut then go straight out right for a pinch. Top out. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V5 | 4m |
David Nott 8 months ago
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| 45 |
Chockmoan
Hard sit start traverse through quite poor slopers. Fair sized moves on bad holds with... you guessed it, crap feet! FA: Roscoe2, 2013 | V4 | 3m |
David Nott 8 months ago
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 46 |
Fuck You Wind
Another undercut sit-start! Cruxy moves getting round the belly of the boulder. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V3 | 3m |
David Nott 8 months ago
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| 47 |
Moustache Rider
Start with your feet right underneath the boulder on the small rail, hands on good holds. Up and over following the arete - not unusually, the crux is getting right onto your feet. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V3 | 4m |
David Nott 8 months ago
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| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 48 |
WGAF
Pleasant little crack. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V0 | 5m |
David Nott 8 months ago
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1.7. The Other Side 21 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Long/Lat: 148.592200, -34.640188
- Description:©
-
Across the road from Tombstone Ridge/the Highlands. A scattering of slightly smaller boulders, mostly warmups but a few harder things to do.
- Approach:©
-
Park halfway up and head to the boulders on your right as you look up the hill.
|
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Magoo
Head up the obvious feature. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V0- | 4m | |||||
| 2 |
Indiscretions
Sit start then head up through a fair sized move. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V1 | 4m |
Ken 9 weeks ago
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| 3 |
Ermagawd
Start low right next to 'Magoo' then up and left to top out. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V0 | 4m | |||||
| 4 |
The Smell That Lingers
Traverse the boulder from right to left then top out for 'Ermagawd'. FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012 | V0 | 2m | |||||
| 5 |
Bug In My Eye
Sit start and up. Easy. FA: Ben Davies, 2012 | V0- | 3m |
Ken 9 weeks ago
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| 6 |
Indian Scammers
Sit start on slopers then up. First move harder than the rest. FA: Ben Davies, 2012 | V1 | 3m |
Ken 9 weeks ago
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||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 7 |
Eat a Sammich
Up and over, nothing amazing. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V0 | 4m | |||||
| 8 |
The Coiffure
A simple up and over. FA: Constantine Carluen, 2012 | V0 | 4m | |||||
| 9 |
He's Not So Smart
Traverse the boulder right to left. Techy. FA: Constantine Carluen, 2012 | V2 | 2m | |||||
| 10 |
Ass Pats
One hard move off an incut sidepull and a small nodule of rock to easy moves to make the top. The classic 'where do I put my feet' granite style... FA: David Nott, 2012 | V3 to V4 | 3m |
David Nott 8 months ago
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| 11 |
Do It Right
Sit start from the underclings and up. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V0 | 3m | |||||
| 12 |
I Don't Like Crimpit
Nasty sit-start off holds facing the wrong way, though a goodish sidepull for the right hand, reach the high rail with your left hand and head on up with a fridge hug friction move. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V5 | 4m | |||||
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||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 13 |
Lowest of the Low
Try not to bruise your butt falling 10 cms if you lose your grip. The most lowball sit-start you'll probably ever see. FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012 | V0 | 2m | |||||
| 14 |
Soccer Sucks
Standard sit-start problem. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V2 to V3 | 3m | |||||
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||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 15 |
Techy sit-start with a bunch of holds facing the wrong way. FA: David Nott, 2012 | V1 to V2 | 3m |
Chris 8 months ago
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| 16 |
New Pink Jeans
Flash first ascent. Can you put your foot to your ear? Sit start right under the overhang on poor pinches and rails and top out. It's not over once you're off the ground... FA: Ian Phillips, 2012 | V5 | 3m |
David Nott 8 months ago
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| 17 |
Eeyore
Bring your kids. FA: David Nott, 2012 | VB | 4m | |||||
| 18 |
Snot Factory
Another kid-friendly boulder. Bit shaky though, perhaps they should wear proper rock shoes. FA: David Nott, 2012 | VB | 4m | |||||
| 19 |
Crudler
Like a big warm hug. FA: Ben Davies, 2012 | VB | 4m | |||||
|
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
| 20 |
Footrot
Sit start at very bottom of crack, up and left FA: Ken McKeon, 2013 | V1 | 4m |
Ken 10 weeks ago
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| 21 |
Fly Blown
Straight up the highest part of the boulder FA: Ken McKeon, 2013 | V0 | 4m |
Ken 10 weeks ago
| ||||
1.8. Valley of Slabs 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Long/Lat: 148.587210, -34.639421
- Description:
-
And lo, even though I walk through the valley in the shadow of slabs... I shall not fear, nor shall I bring a rope to sustain my efforts.
- Approach:
-
From the top of the hill head north until you see a slumped valley most likely caused by a land slip.
|
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Project 1 | 10m | ||||||
| 2 | Project 2 | 10m | ||||||
| 3 | Project 3 | 10m | ||||||
| 4 | Project 4 | 10m | ||||||
| 5 | Project 5 | 8m | ||||||
| 6 | Project 6 | 6m | ||||||
1.9. The Dross 0 routes in Sector
- Description:
-
Comprises the less-than-amazing boulders not covered in the rest of the areas, pretty much everything over the sunny side of the hill and everything west of the Valley of Slabs. Don't be too fooled by the name though, there may be some gems to find still.
- Approach:
-
Head past the radar itself and either down the hill to try and find something worthwhile to climb or past the slumped valley of slabs.



















































































































