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Description

Area dominated by some 6-7 metre high tombstone-looking boulders, with a few terrifying and lovely highballs.

Access issues inherited from Radar Range

This crag is on private property owned by the Harden Council. The Council has been approached and has advised that anyone entering this area does so completely at their own risk - you break it, you're on your own. There are a number of land users, including people who walk and ride up the hill, and nearby farming land as well as the Air Services Australia owned radar at the top of the hill.

Please be sensitive to potential issues and don't make noise that's going to arouse interest (you will be heard for a long distance). Don't expect to always be alone. Please note the ethics - they are there for good reasons and it's all about keeping this crag open, not styles of climbing.

Do not approach the radar array please. For any reason. Be sure to close the gate. Every time. Don't expect someone to close it behind you, you may let some cattle in or out in the meanwhile. Please stay away from the very obviously fenced farmer's land. There's enough boulders to climb without venturing over there.

Ethic inherited from Radar Range

NO BOLTING AT ALL - not even for setting up top ropes or cleaning, thanks. Use some gear or sling a nearby boulder.

NO CHIPPING OR COMFORTISING - there are WAY MORE than enough problems here! However, please do make the effort to clean off flakes that are likely to go, and moss.

KEEP THE BOULDERS CLEAN - this means removing tick marks and cleaning off excess chalk if need be. Vinegar is great for removing chalk and the granite won't be affected if you need to give something a scrub.

Finally, please follow the naming conventions. Climbs have been named in a satirical fashion. If you make a first ascent - and there's every likelihood you will, given the massive boulder field - then go ahead and have a go at something that amuses or annoys you. Do not number your climb. Give it a frickin' name. Feel free to explain what the name means in the description.

Variants and eliminates welcome. It is bouldering, after all.

Routes

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Grade Route
1

A shorter warm-up for the area, head straight up the off-widthy crack to a low topout.

FA: Constantine Carluen, 2012

2

The most obvious line that strikes you as you make your way up to the boulders. This line takes the incipient seam with insecure crack holds and the arete upwards (using the crack/boulder to the left if you need to). And it's overhung too. Very tensiony, technical but not too powerful moves for the grade.

Very nearly saw a FA on the first visit to it, but Bruno had a brainfreeze. Grade varies depending on how you approach it. The further you go out left with your body and the more you use the arete, the easier it gets. The purest line sent so far uses two holds on the arete, two sections of the seam and tops out direct with feet on the front of the boulder. It's possible there's a much harder climb for someone with finger(nail)s of steel using just the seam.

FA: Constantine Carluen, 2012

FA: David Nott, 2012

3
V4 to V5 *** Wise Seagull Boulder 5m

Up the right hand side of the boulder through 'HIV??' and then traverse left on slopers with good spotters to finish up 'Deep Freeze'. In true internet tradition, someone flapped in and crapped all over this one!

FA: Roscoe2, 2013

4
V4 to V5 ** HIV?? Boulder 4m

A reasonably difficult leftways-leaning crack that won't take jams all the way. Hard start, quite technical. Difficulty depends on whether you can manage a high step for the first move. Otherwise the feet are atrocious!

FA: Ian Phillips, 2012

5
V4 * HIV?? right Boulder 4m

Crack gets the majority of the run-off after rain so it'll probably need gardening if you want to jump on this. Hard moves up an insecure crack. Top currently needs a bit of cleaning up.

FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012

6
V7 *** Pale Rider Boulder 6m

I looked, and behold, a pale rock. Straddled upon it...

Compression moves up a blunt arete to top out at jugs over a very airy landing. This one is an absolute cracker - requires great body tension, technical moves on tenuous holds and good concentration, not to mention good skin! The full line will involve some very heady moves, particularly if done 'pure' without the assistance of the boulder to the left.

There was some question before it was attempted whether it would even be possible given the apparent spacing of the holds. It definitely goes, but it sure ain't easy.

FA: David Nott, 2012

7
V3 I Rolled a 4 Boulder 6m

An unfortunate chimney start owing to a lack of holds bar two well-spaced pockets that won't get you anywhere. From there, a traverse across the face on a rail will get you to safety. It's not the lowest climb around though... A few deep breaths on all counts when this was sent.

FA: Chris Maciejowski, 2012

8
US V0 to V1 To be done Boulder 3m

Straight up the front of the boulder using compression slaps.

9
US V0 to V1 BreathMonster Boulder 3m

The chimney start. Get right inside and go up to the top without using any of the juggy footers around. Actually a bit of a lark.

FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012

10
V1 Non Rope Monkey Boulder 3m

A rising traverse of the boulder from the end, out through the roof on the left side of the boulder and up. Might take a bit to clean up properly.

FA: David Nott, 2012

11
V0 Watch My Ankles Boulder 3m

Straight up through the body of the boulder. Bit of a downhill landing.

FA: David Nott, 2012

12
V1 Muno Brars Boulder 3m

Very morphological. Grading is honesty based, somewhere between V0 and V3 depending on your size. Sit start under the roof, lock off with your right hand in the crack then chuck a big move out left to a glory jug. Not terribly wonderful, to be honest.

FA: David Nott, 2012

13
V0 Cankles Boulder 4m

Not wonderful. Enough holds to get up, use it as a warmup. The boulder to the left of the tombstones facing up the hill.

FA: David Nott, 2012

14
US V0+ Silk Pouches Boulder 5m

Up from a needless sit start staying right of the crack line and topping out. Stay away from flake to the right, it could break.

FA: Christopher Lean, 2013

15
V2 Slowpoke Boulder 3m

Near to the tombstones themselves (up and right when looking up the hill). From a sit start, huck a biiiig move to the top.

FA: Ian Phillips, 2012

16
US V0 Crack Fiend Boulder 4m

On the boulder just to the right of 'I Rolled a 4'. From a sit, head up the arete using the crack to establish yourself.

FA: Ian Carter, 2012

17
US V2 Shitting Chalk Boulder 4m

Eliminate - as for 'Crack Fiend' but stick to the arete and avoid the crack.

FA: Ian Carter, 2012

18
US V1 Resouled Boulder 4m

Up through thin feet and hands to a juggy topout.

FA: David Nott, 2012

19
US V1 Death of 35 Cuts Boulder 4m

Start for 'Resouled' then top out right.

FA: Georgia Marjoribanks, 2012

20
US VB Double White Lines Boulder 3m

Walk up the boulder.

FA: Georgia Marjoribanks, 2012