|
|
| Route
| Grade
| Popularity
| Style
|
|
| 6
|
|   Pale Rider
*I looked, and behold, a pale rock. Straddled upon it...*
Compression moves up a blunt arete to top out at jugs over a very airy landing. This one is an absolute cracker - requires great body tension, technical moves on tenuous holds and good concentration, not to mention good skin! The full line will involve some very heady moves, particularly if done 'pure' without the assistance of the boulder to the left.
There was some question before it was attempted whether it would even be possible given the apparent spacing of the holds. It definitely goes, but it sure ain't easy.
| V7
|
| Boulder 6m
|
|
| 4
|
|  HIV??
A reasonably difficult leftways-leaning crack that won't take jams all the way. Hard start, quite technical. Difficulty depends on whether you can manage a high step for the first move. Otherwise the feet are *atrocious*!
| V4 to V5
|
| Boulder 4m
|
|
| 5
|
| HIV?? right
Crack gets the majority of the run-off after rain so it'll probably need gardening if you want to jump on this. Hard moves up an insecure crack. Top currently needs a bit of cleaning up.
| V4
|
| Boulder 4m
|
|
| 7
|
| I Rolled a 4
An unfortunate chimney start owing to a lack of holds bar two well-spaced pockets that won't get you anywhere. From there, a traverse across the face on a rail will get you to safety. It's not the lowest climb around though... A few deep breaths on all counts when this was sent.
| V3
|
| Boulder 6m
|
|
| 2
|
|  Deep Freeze
The most obvious line that strikes you as you make your way up to the boulders. This line takes the incipient seam with insecure crack holds and the arete upwards (using the crack/boulder to the left if you need to). And it's overhung too. Very tensiony, technical but not too powerful moves for the grade.
Very nearly saw a FA on the first visit to it, but Bruno had a brainfreeze. Grade varies depending on how you approach it. The further you go out left with your body and the more you use the arete, the easier it gets. The purest line sent so far uses two holds on the arete, two sections of the seam and tops out direct with feet on the front of the boulder. It's possible there's a *much* harder climb for someone with finger(nail)s of steel using just the seam.
| V4 to V5
|
| Boulder 5m
|
|
| 3
|
|   Wise Seagull
Up the right hand side of the boulder through 'HIV??' and then traverse left on slopers with good spotters to finish up 'Deep Freeze'. In true internet tradition, someone flapped in and crapped all over this one!
| V4 to V5
|
| Boulder 5m
|
|
| 1
|
| Timberlake's last dance
A shorter warm-up for the area, head straight up the off-widthy crack to a low topout.
| V0
|
| Boulder 3m
|
|
| 9
|
| BreathMonster
The chimney start. Get right inside and go up to the top without using any of the juggy footers around. Actually a bit of a lark.
| V0 to V1
|
| Boulder 3m
|
|
| 8
|
| To be done
Straight up the front of the boulder using compression slaps.
| V0 to V1
|
| Boulder 3m
|
|