Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Description

Below the hill proper is a low-lying area with yet more boulders (surprise!). Most of the boulders here are quite mossy and may need a clean up to be sent. The jewel of the crown is a small sub-area with an 8 metre boulder that has a viciously overhung/undercut section, with another boulder nearby that would top the 6 metre mark. The area is described roughly running down the ridge and then left to right looking up towards the crown of the lower crest.

The dividing line between this and the 'Tombstone Ridge' is a gully lying between the smaller and larger hill, with a broken down fence.

Access issues inherited from Radar Range

This crag is on private property owned by the Harden Council. The Council has been approached and has advised that anyone entering this area does so completely at their own risk - you break it, you're on your own. There are a number of land users, including people who walk and ride up the hill, and nearby farming land as well as the Air Services Australia owned radar at the top of the hill.

Please be sensitive to potential issues and don't make noise that's going to arouse interest (you will be heard for a long distance). Don't expect to always be alone. Please note the ethics - they are there for good reasons and it's all about keeping this crag open, not styles of climbing.

Do not approach the radar array please. For any reason. Be sure to close the gate. Every time. Don't expect someone to close it behind you, you may let some cattle in or out in the meanwhile. Please stay away from the very obviously fenced farmer's land. There's enough boulders to climb without venturing over there.

Approach

Right of the Tombstones looking from the first parking area, otherwise if you're coming from the second parking area head up and over the hill or down the hill from the first flat part of the road a few hundred metres away from the radar array.

Descent Notes

It is possible to walk off the back of the boulder containing 'Limpy McCrippleton', if you're happy to climb the 8 metres to get there.

Ethic inherited from Radar Range

NO BOLTING AT ALL - not even for setting up top ropes or cleaning, thanks. Use some gear or sling a nearby boulder.

NO CHIPPING OR COMFORTISING - there are WAY MORE than enough problems here! However, please do make the effort to clean off flakes that are likely to go, and moss.

KEEP THE BOULDERS CLEAN - this means removing tick marks and cleaning off excess chalk if need be. Vinegar is great for removing chalk and the granite won't be affected if you need to give something a scrub.

Finally, please follow the naming conventions. Climbs have been named in a satirical fashion. If you make a first ascent - and there's every likelihood you will, given the massive boulder field - then go ahead and have a go at something that amuses or annoys you. Do not number your climb. Give it a frickin' name. Feel free to explain what the name means in the description.

Variants and eliminates welcome. It is bouldering, after all.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
US V0 Endless Boulder 4m

Sit start and up. Watch out for the sidecling, it might go!

FA: David Nott, 2013

2
US V2 Nameless Boulder 4m

Sit start and up from crimps to a rail, then a high step and top out.

FA: David Nott, 2013

3
US V2 Actions Speak Louder Boulder 4m

Up the arete from a stand. Hold that left sidecling!

FA: David Nott, 2012

4
US V0- Nothing For Paddy Boulder 4m

Just a warmup, nothing special. Up through easy moves following the crack to the top, do some laps if you feel like it.

FA: David Nott, 2012

5
US V0 Mossy Ferguson Boulder 3m

Sit start. Some good holds but it's still tricky getting off the ground with the poor feet available. You can easily make this harder but if you do it right it should be a 0. One of a group of good warmups for the harder stuff down the hill.

FA: Ian Carter, 2012

6
V2 Dearth Vader Boulder 3m

Right side of the 'Mossy' boulder past the bush - watch out when you top out! Sit start and up.

FA: David Nott, 2014

7
US V1 Florence Nightingale Boulder 3m

Sit start. Up through a flake (photo's already old, some of the flake got destroyed) then top out. Another warmup. Other side of the boulder from 'Mossy Ferguson'.

FA: David Nott, 2012

8
US V1 Dirty Socks Boulder 3m

Up past a nice flake from a sit start. Another warmup.

FA: Ian Carter, 2012

9
US V2 Nose Rage Boulder 3m

This climb shed more holds than you'd think possible. Up from a fairly horizontal position (sit start) using some ankle strength to get you to the top. Pretty contrived, big rock in the way.

FA: David Nott, 2012

10
US V2 Ejaculator Boulder 4m

Up from the underclings and jugs and head left to top out (ideally, don't walk out onto the slab on the far left).

FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012

11
US V2 Undercling and up Boulder 4m

Straight up from underclings. Contrived, because there's jugs just above...

12
V4 The Breakdance Kid Boulder 4m

Up through a now busted flake on some very balancy and difficult moves. There's a small rail on your left and the feet suck. Be careful of the flake, the rest may still tear away and it's a very big chunk of rock that could hurt you or your spotter. Watch how you lever against it - preferably not straight out from the rock.

FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012

13
US V0 Gas Terrorist Boulder 3m

Sit start. Up and over.

FA: David Nott, 2012

14
US V1 Butt Custard Boulder 3m

Sit start. Left hand on sloper or high, right hand in the pocket. Feet are poor.

FA: David Nott, 2012

15
US V0 Sporto Attack Boulder 3m

Sit start. Up and over!

FA: David Nott, 2012

16
US V0 Goebbels Boulder 3m

Sit start left side arete.

FA: David Nott, 2012

17
US V0- Himmler Boulder 3m

Sit start using the rail.

FA: David Nott, 2012

18
US V0 The SS Boulder 3m

Sit start and move left to the rail.

FA: David Nott, 2012

19

Sit start, right hand arete, up and over with hands either side.

FA: Ken McKeon, 2013

20
US V2 Todd's Frog Boulder 3m

Couple metres away from 'The Breakdance Kid' boulder. A very surprising little sit start that looks dead easy but requires some technical heel hooking and is pretty bodymorphic and hippy. Take whatever grade it feels like because it'll vary depending on your size.

FA: Jin Jin Cong, 2012

21

Over the hill from the little starting area of boulders. Will require a fair bit of cleaning.

23

Just to the right when looking uphill of the 'Limpy McCrippleton' boulder. Big dirt mounds on the underside indicative of birds? Looks good but need to check whether these actually are nests.

25
US V2 All Good Boulder 3m

Up the right side of the boulder through good holds but over a poor landing. The mantel is a bit sketchy, but should be better once it cleans up a bit more.

FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012

26
V7 Gradet Debate Boulder 4m

Sit start. Your choice of a half-pad crimp, off-angle shallow pocket or a mono for your hands. Up to a jug then top out. Stand a lot easier, V2ish.

FA: David Nott, 2014

27
US V1 All Booked Up Boulder 4m

Up the arete. Some tenuous moves to get around the corner on solid sidepulls. One of the few climbs that didn't have an exploding hold on the day...

FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012

28
US V4 Baying of the Hounds Boulder 3m

Tenuous feet. Sit start and head up, then traverse right to top out. Left heel hook optional. Hold broke during FA so possibly a little harder.

FA: David Nott, 2012

29
YAP 1 Boulder Project

Sit start and over.

30
YAP 2 Boulder Project

Sit start and follow the crack.

31
Project B1 Boulder
32
V4 Here Lukey Lukey Boulder

FA: Luke Koehler, 2013

33
V3 Project B3 Boulder

Sit start and traverse left.

FA: Luke Koehler, 2013

34
V1 Project B4 Boulder

Sit start.

FA: Luke Koehler, 2013

35
V2 Project B5 Boulder

FA: Luke Koehler, 2013

36
US V1 Prowess LHV Boulder 3m

Sit start and up the left side with big jugs to help you.

FA: David Nott, 2013

37
V4 Prow Prowess 2 Boulder 3m

Chop this! Up from a sit along the right side through slopers. Could be extended through the cave for a fun variant, if you don't mind the sheep poo.

FA: David Nott, 2013

38
US V0 Sneakers Boulder 3m

Up the crack. Bit of a poor landing if you have difficulty topping out.

FA: David Nott, 2013

39
US V1 Sneakers LHV Boulder 3m

Start up the crack then trend left. Slightly vaguer holds.

FA: David Nott, 2013

40
US V2 Barney Gumble left Boulder 4m

Stand start on a reasonable size pocket for your right hand and a smaller pocket or crimp for your left. High step if you can for an easier start on the incut/remains of the flake. Head up for a good incut rail then left and done.

FA: Barney Gumble, 2012

41
US V2 * Barney Gumble right Boulder 4m

Really the direct version. Straight up on good, but quite spaced holds.

FA: Ben Davies, 2012

42
Gas project Boulder 4m

Sit start the boulder from underclings and up. Pretty hard.

43

Straight up through insecure sidepulls and slopers. Techy. The rock on this boulder is a lot more polished than others nearby.

44
V2 Domestic Duties Boulder 3m

Up the flat side of the boulder from a sit start. Pretty nice. Still needs some cleaning up, a bit mossy up top.

FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012

45
V2 Limbs Askew Boulder 4m

Sit start (stand V1) and up, topping out either left or right.

FA: David Nott, 2014

46
US V5 Buddeh Boulder 4m

Found on the side of the boulder to the left of the 'Limpy McCrippleton' boulder, when looking uphill. 'Oh, this should be a nice little warmup' ... Apparently not. Grading is honesty based - if you start too high up, this is more like V2. Start with your feet as low as possible using the notch for your right hand and side-cling for left hand. danger - be careful of the massive flake, it may detach! I may reinforce it.

FA: David Nott, 2012

47

Straight up on the largest holds for Buddeh rather than left.

FA: Scott Pearce, 2013

48

Sit start slightly right of Buddeh and up.

FA: David Nott, 2014

49
V2 Sunday Drivers Boulder 3m

Start on the underclings for Buddeh and move right to the sloper and up through the crimps.

FA: S Pearce, 2013

50
US V4 Unknown Boulder 4m

A hardish dyno. FA unknown at this stage . Will add more details when known/tried. Topo line may be incorrect.

51
US V2 to V3 Traverse project Boulder

Traverse the front side of the boulder and up, on good holds.

52

Bit of an eliminate. Follow vague holds up, then bail off left.

53
V3 Hasbeen Army Boulder 8m

Left hand variant to 'Limpy McCrippleton'. Boulder up and over the sloper rail with a few deadpoint moves and some very interesting footing. This is your first point for gear. Bring some mats or a spotter if you don't want to go rolling down the hill. Up and through the weakness to the top.

FA: David Nott, 2012

54

A two-move wonder, on a 30 degree overhung boulder (more like 40 for the sit). Start with left hand in the incut undercling (pretty good) and right hand in the notch. Right foot on a half-toe foetus of an incut, then shift your left leg up to a sideways heel hook. Deep breath then dyno up to a sloper ledge. Hold it right at the end of the slopers and match, and you can drop off, or you can keep going for the full route and scare yourself silly. Around V6.

The sit start goes a few ways, though it's spoiled pretty badly by the rock right underneath which makes the sit pretty annoying to execute. Other variants are recorded, for the V6 start sitting on the boulder or just stand start using the undercling.

FA: David Nott, 2012

FA: Ian Phillips, 2012

55
US V9 to V10 Just Pebbles Boulder 8m

Sit start to the left of the boulder underneath Limpy using the lowest rails possible (see topo). Very contrived, but the hardest way to get up the boulder (so far); extremely hard moves to start using underclings. Can be finished up Limpy (harder) or Hasbeen Army (still bloody hard). Might be 10 either way? Topout if you wish, it's your funeral if you fall.

FA: David Nott, 2014

56
US V7 AbsentIanism Boulder 8m

Possibly one grade harder than Limpy according to the FA. Follow the crack up and through the rest of Limpy.

FA: Ian Phillips, 2013

57
V12 to V13 HARD project Boulder 8m

Grade's a guess. Send it and tell us.

58
V6 *** Bolo Boulder

Sit start from underneath the boulder. Suits taller people well. Throw from the rail to start and up without dabbing (!), then into a cruxy move to latch two sidepulls and dyno to a jug. FA was done with a dyno, easier with a heel hook but possibly still 6?

FA: David Nott, 2013

59
US V5 Sanchez Spray Boulder 3m

Burly sit start off opposing holds using a reasonable left hand rail and a nasty right hand crimp. Gotta look hard for them feet. Not a good warmup! But lowball at least. This could be your hardest V1 send ever !

FA: David Nott, 2013

60
US V2 Sanchez Spray stand Boulder 3m

Standing start, head up and slightly right. High step the small incut and it's a bit easier.

FA: David Nott, 2012

61
US V2 to V3 * Paddy Shitting Potatoes Boulder 4m

An awesome, sequency and technical climb up through some good holds to a scoop, pinch and crimp with the option of a very sharp sidecling to help you through. A good little number. Was going to be Paddy's first first ascent here, but he didn't have enough gas left.

FA: Tyron Ahern, 2012

62
V0 Paddy Power Boulder 4m

Up the left side of the boulder when looking uphill. Not hard, but not bad either.

FA: Ian Carter, 2012

63
V1 T proj Boulder 4m

Same boulder as 'Paddy Power'. Not too hard (but harder with yet another flake gone) - just need to clean up the top.

64
V2 * Sheep Nuts Boulder 3m

Start far right with hands high and feet low, quickly drop left through uber jug and then up and over at far left.

FA: Ken McKeon, 2013