Topo #3960

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Route Grade Popularity Style
1 Endless

Sit start and up. Watch out for the sidecling, it might go!

V0 Boulder 4m Unlink route
2 Nameless

Sit start and up from crimps to a rail, then a high step and top out.

V2 Boulder 4m Unlink route

Topo #2130

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4 Nothing For Paddy

Just a warmup, nothing special. Up through easy moves following the crack to the top, do some laps if you feel like it.

V0- Boulder 4m Unlink route
3 Actions Speak Louder

Up the arete from a stand. Hold that left sidecling!

V2 Boulder 4m Unlink route

Topo #2182

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5 Mossy Ferguson

Sit start. Some good holds but it's still tricky getting off the ground with the poor feet available. You can easily make this harder but if you do it right it should be a 0. One of a group of good warmups for the harder stuff down the hill.

V0 Boulder 3m Unlink route

Topo #6093

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6 Dearth Vader

Right side of the 'Mossy' boulder past the bush - watch out when you top out! Sit start and up.

V2 Boulder 3m Unlink route

Topo #2183

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7 Florence Nightingale

Sit start. Up through a flake (photo's already old, some of the flake got destroyed) then top out. Another warmup. Other side of the boulder from 'Mossy Ferguson'.

V1 Boulder 3m Unlink route

Topo #2184

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9 Nose Rage

This climb shed more holds than you'd think possible. Up from a fairly horizontal position (sit start) using some ankle strength to get you to the top. Pretty contrived, big rock in the way.

V2 Boulder 3m Unlink route
8 Dirty Socks

Up past a nice flake from a sit start. Another warmup.

V1 Boulder 3m Unlink route

Topo #1729

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12 The Breakdance Kid

Up through a now busted flake on some very balancy and difficult moves. There's a small rail on your left and the feet suck. Be careful of the flake, the rest may still tear away and it's a very big chunk of rock that could hurt you or your spotter. Watch how you lever against it - preferably not straight out from the rock.

V4 Boulder 4m Unlink route
11 Undercling and up

Straight up from underclings. Contrived, because there's jugs just above...

V2 Boulder 4m Unlink route
10 Ejaculator

Up from the underclings and jugs and head left to top out (ideally, don't walk out onto the slab on the far left).

V2 Boulder 4m Unlink route

Topo #2443

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13 Gas Terrorist

Sit start. Up and over.

V0 Boulder 3m Unlink route
14 Butt Custard

Sit start. Left hand on sloper or high, right hand in the pocket. Feet are poor.

V1 Boulder 3m Unlink route
15 Sporto Attack

Sit start. Up and over!

V0 Boulder 3m Unlink route

Topo #2444

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16 Goebbels

Sit start left side arete.

V0 Boulder 3m Unlink route
17 Himmler

Sit start using the rail.

V0- Boulder 3m Unlink route
18 The SS

Sit start and move left to the rail.

V0 Boulder 3m Unlink route
19 Green Ring of Castration

Sit start, right hand arete, up and over with hands either side.

V1 Boulder 2m Unlink route

Topo #2174

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20 Todd's Frog

Couple metres away from 'The Breakdance Kid' boulder. A very surprising little sit start that looks dead easy but requires some technical heel hooking and is pretty bodymorphic and hippy. Take whatever grade it feels like because it'll vary depending on your size.

V2 Boulder 3m Unlink route

Topo #1723

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21 Mossy project 1

Over the hill from the little starting area of boulders. Will require a fair bit of cleaning.

Boulder Unlink route

Topo #1724

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22 Mossy project 2
Boulder Unlink route

Topo #1731

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23 Birdy project 1

Just to the right when looking uphill of the 'Limpy McCrippleton' boulder. Big dirt mounds on the underside indicative of birds? Looks good but need to check whether these actually are nests.

Boulder Unlink route

Topo #1732

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24 Waspy project 2
Boulder Unlink route

Topo #1726

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26 Gradet Debate

Sit start. Your choice of a half-pad crimp, off-angle shallow pocket or a mono for your hands. Up to a jug then top out. Stand a lot easier, V2ish.

V7 Boulder 4m Unlink route
25 All Good

Up the right side of the boulder through good holds but over a poor landing. The mantel is a bit sketchy, but should be better once it cleans up a bit more.

V2 Boulder 3m Unlink route
27 All Booked Up

Up the arete. Some tenuous moves to get around the corner on solid sidepulls. One of the few climbs that didn't have an exploding hold on the day...

V1 Boulder 4m Unlink route

Topo #3961

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28 Baying of the Hounds

Tenuous feet. Sit start and head up, then traverse right to top out. Left heel hook optional. Hold broke during FA so possibly a little harder.

V4 Boulder 3m Unlink route

Topo #3962

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29 YAP 1

Sit start and over.

Boulder Project Unlink route
30 YAP 2

Sit start and follow the crack.

Boulder Project Unlink route

Topo #2225

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31 Project B1
Boulder Unlink route
32 Here Lukey Lukey
V4 Boulder Unlink route
33 Project B3

Sit start and traverse left.

V3 Boulder Unlink route
34 Project B4

Sit start.

V1 Boulder Unlink route
35 Project B5
V2 Boulder Unlink route

Topo #1727

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37 Prow Prowess 2

Chop this! Up from a sit along the right side through slopers. Could be extended through the cave for a fun variant, if you don't mind the sheep poo.

V4 Boulder 3m Unlink route
36 Prowess LHV

Sit start and up the left side with big jugs to help you.

V1 Boulder 3m Unlink route

Topo #1721

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38 Sneakers

Up the crack. Bit of a poor landing if you have difficulty topping out.

V0 Boulder 3m Unlink route
39 Sneakers LHV

Start up the crack then trend left. Slightly vaguer holds.

V1 Boulder 3m Unlink route

Topo #1719

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40 Barney Gumble left

Stand start on a reasonable size pocket for your right hand and a smaller pocket or crimp for your left. High step if you can for an easier start on the incut/remains of the flake. Head up for a good incut rail then left and done.

V2 Boulder 4m Unlink route
41 * Barney Gumble right

Really the direct version. Straight up on good, but quite spaced holds.

V2 Boulder 4m Unlink route
42 Gas project

Sit start the boulder from underclings and up. Pretty hard.

Boulder 4m Unlink route

Topo #1722

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43 Insecurity Symphony

Straight up through insecure sidepulls and slopers. Techy. The rock on this boulder is a lot more polished than others nearby.

Boulder 6m Unlink route

Topo #1730

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44 Domestic Duties

Up the flat side of the boulder from a sit start. Pretty nice. Still needs some cleaning up, a bit mossy up top.

V2 Boulder 3m Unlink route
51 Traverse project

Traverse the front side of the boulder and up, on good holds.

V2 to V3 Boulder Unlink route

Topo #6094

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45 Limbs Askew

Sit start (stand V1) and up, topping out either left or right.

V2 Boulder 4m Unlink route

Topo #1728

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51 Traverse project

Traverse the front side of the boulder and up, on good holds.

V2 to V3 Boulder Unlink route
46 Buddeh

Found on the side of the boulder to the left of the 'Limpy McCrippleton' boulder, when looking uphill. 'Oh, this should be a nice little warmup' ... Apparently not. Grading is honesty based - if you start too high up, this is more like V2. Start *with your feet as low as possible* using the notch for your right hand and side-cling for left hand. *danger* - be careful of the massive flake, it may detach! I may reinforce it.

V5 Boulder 4m Unlink route
50 Unknown

A hardish dyno. FA unknown at this stage . Will add more details when known/tried. Topo line may be incorrect.

V4 Boulder 4m Unlink route

Topo #2128

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46 Buddeh

Found on the side of the boulder to the left of the 'Limpy McCrippleton' boulder, when looking uphill. 'Oh, this should be a nice little warmup' ... Apparently not. Grading is honesty based - if you start too high up, this is more like V2. Start *with your feet as low as possible* using the notch for your right hand and side-cling for left hand. *danger* - be careful of the massive flake, it may detach! I may reinforce it.

V5 Boulder 4m Unlink route
49 Sunday Drivers

Start on the underclings for Buddeh and move right to the sloper and up through the crimps.

V2 Boulder 3m Unlink route
47 Don't Call Me Buddeh, Pal

Straight up on the largest holds for Buddeh rather than left.

V3 Boulder 5m Unlink route
48 Don't Call Me Pal, Mate

Sit start slightly right of Buddeh and up.

V4 Boulder 5m Unlink route

Topo #1733

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54 *** Limpy McCrippleton

A two-move wonder, on a 30 degree overhung boulder (more like 40 for the sit). Start with left hand in the incut undercling (pretty good) and right hand in the notch. Right foot on a half-toe foetus of an incut, then shift your left leg up to a sideways heel hook. Deep breath then dyno up to a sloper ledge. Hold it right at the end of the slopers and match, and you can drop off, or you can keep going for the full route and scare yourself silly. Around V6. The sit start goes a few ways, though it's spoiled pretty badly by the rock right underneath which makes the sit pretty annoying to execute. Other variants are recorded, for the V6 start sitting on the boulder or just stand start using the undercling.

V6 Boulder 8m Unlink route
52 Ben's project

Bit of an eliminate. Follow vague holds up, then bail off left.

Boulder Unlink route
58 *** Bolo

Sit start from underneath the boulder. Suits taller people well. Throw from the rail to start and up without dabbing (!), then into a cruxy move to latch two sidepulls and dyno to a jug. FA was done with a dyno, easier with a heel hook but possibly still 6?

V6 Boulder Unlink route
53 Hasbeen Army

Left hand variant to 'Limpy McCrippleton'. Boulder up and over the sloper rail with a few deadpoint moves and some very interesting footing. This is your first point for gear. Bring some mats or a spotter if you don't want to go rolling down the hill. Up and through the weakness to the top.

V3 Boulder 8m Unlink route
55 Just Pebbles

Sit start to the left of the boulder underneath Limpy using the lowest rails possible (see topo). Very contrived, but the hardest way to get up the boulder (so far); extremely hard moves to start using underclings. Can be finished up Limpy (harder) or Hasbeen Army (still bloody hard). Might be 10 either way? Topout if you wish, it's your funeral if you fall.

V9 to V10 Boulder 8m Unlink route
56 AbsentIanism

Possibly one grade harder than Limpy according to the FA. Follow the crack up and through the rest of Limpy.

V7 Boulder 8m Unlink route
57 HARD project

Grade's a guess. Send it and tell us.

V12 to V13 Boulder 8m Unlink route

Topo #1720

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60 Sanchez Spray stand

Standing start, head up and slightly right. High step the small incut and it's a bit easier.

V2 Boulder 3m Unlink route
59 Sanchez Spray

Burly sit start off opposing holds using a reasonable left hand rail and a nasty right hand crimp. Gotta look hard for them feet. Not a good warmup! But lowball at least. This could be your hardest V1 send ever !

V5 Boulder 3m Unlink route

Topo #2129

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61 * Paddy Shitting Potatoes

An awesome, sequency and technical climb up through some good holds to a scoop, pinch and crimp with the option of a *very* sharp sidecling to help you through. A good little number. Was going to be Paddy's first first ascent here, but he didn't have enough gas left.

V2 to V3 Boulder 4m Unlink route

Topo #3744

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64 * Sheep Nuts

Start far right with hands high and feet low, quickly drop left through uber jug and then up and over at far left.

V2 Boulder 3m Unlink route

Topo #2221

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