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Description

This is a sector just like the Tombstones. Where boulders in other parts of the hill have scary and diagonal landings, less clustering, this is an area with a high concentration of good and some very hard lines, not to mention the occasional flat landing!!

Access issues inherited from Radar Range

This crag is on private property owned by the Harden Council. The Council has been approached and has advised that anyone entering this area does so completely at their own risk - you break it, you're on your own. There are a number of land users, including people who walk and ride up the hill, and nearby farming land as well as the Air Services Australia owned radar at the top of the hill.

Please be sensitive to potential issues and don't make noise that's going to arouse interest (you will be heard for a long distance). Don't expect to always be alone. Please note the ethics - they are there for good reasons and it's all about keeping this crag open, not styles of climbing.

Do not approach the radar array please. For any reason. Be sure to close the gate. Every time. Don't expect someone to close it behind you, you may let some cattle in or out in the meanwhile. Please stay away from the very obviously fenced farmer's land. There's enough boulders to climb without venturing over there.

Approach

This is downhill from the radar, almost directly. You'll know when you're there when you find 3 boulders in a nice line, with the majestic 8-9 metre boulder in the metre inviting the brave to try their luck.

Ethic inherited from Radar Range

NO BOLTING AT ALL - not even for setting up top ropes or cleaning, thanks. Use some gear or sling a nearby boulder.

NO CHIPPING OR COMFORTISING - there are WAY MORE than enough problems here! However, please do make the effort to clean off flakes that are likely to go, and moss.

KEEP THE BOULDERS CLEAN - this means removing tick marks and cleaning off excess chalk if need be. Vinegar is great for removing chalk and the granite won't be affected if you need to give something a scrub.

Finally, please follow the naming conventions. Climbs have been named in a satirical fashion. If you make a first ascent - and there's every likelihood you will, given the massive boulder field - then go ahead and have a go at something that amuses or annoys you. Do not number your climb. Give it a frickin' name. Feel free to explain what the name means in the description.

Variants and eliminates welcome. It is bouldering, after all.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA)

Routes

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Grade Route

Stand start and fridge hug the two sides of the boulder and up. Sit start V4.

FA: David Nott, 2014

Up the face right of 'Philthy'.

FA: David Nott, 2014

Easily up the sloped side of the boulder - as easily as England beat the B side in Perth. Happy Australia day.

FA: Alan Dovey, 2014

May not even be possible. The extruded slippery granite on the lower overhung section will make footing extremely difficult to find, and it's one huuuuge huck from nonexistent holds to a pocket to get yourself going. Could go 11 or higher.

This one's gonna be a doozy! 9 metres high - will it go? It's got pockets! V7ish start as for vague crack then extend left as early as possible to avoid the harder boulder problems. Once the route slabs out a bit it's just gymnastic moves on small holds and pockets.

Extremely bouldery with dynamic moves to tiny and slimpy holds. The first move is a deadpoint to a two-finger crimp, then up to a sloped pocket - crimp inside that and extend sideways until you can gain a good sidepull. From there it's only a few more boulder problems to the top! Can be top-roped with good opportunities for setting up anchors from the back.

Set by David Nott, 2013

A delicious offwidth/chimney feast garnished with spare skin and some hard moves to gain the top-out.

FA: David Nott, 2014

Thought to go from a sit start, exfoliating flakes - the usual Bobbara fare - have left a brutal stand start to be done on poor crimps and huge compressive moves.

Technically tough moves and very physical with a real head check topout.

Through a brutal tall person sit start into the crack, where it eases off to V6ish (v6 for the stand) to the top. Shorties probably won't be able to apply, unfortunately, though you could use the cheater block which makes it a number of grades easier.

FA: David Nott, 2014

Sit down, grab the big rail, walk up the boulder. If you just use the slopers it may even be V2.

FA: Ben Davies, 2013

Takes a harder, slightly contrived line up the bulge to the R of Nude Golf Karting. Sit start with L hand in the rail, R hand further right. Straight up to sloping pockets and rock over.

FA: Ben Davies, 2013

Sometimes, they just disappear... Sit start and up.

FA: Honza, 2013

Honza managed to nab the first ascent of this about 73 times after various bits of rock broke off!

FA: Honza, 2013

The easiest way to do this short sit start problem is V2. You can of course eliminate heel hooks, the use of multiple hands etc and call it harder.

FA: David Nott, 2013

Stand start on the left arete and up.

FA: David Nott, 2013

Thought to be easier by the FA, this sit start problem with poor feet and almost no handholds - very rare for granite, volcanic tuff and suchlike - was given V4 by attempted repeaters.

FA: David Nott, 2013

Sit start as for 'Shartitude' and execute an insanely big dyno from there to the sloper dish, WITHOUT ANY INTERMEDIATES. From there, an easy topout. This is a German word which indicates follow-through.

Stand start. Crap on Magoo's hat and up.

FA: David Nott, 2013

Sit start and up on the easier side of the boulder.

FA: Honza, 2013

Balancy and a little thought-provoking slabbing with just the right amount of shallow pockets. Sit start.

FA: Ben Davies, 2013

Sit start and up and over.

FA: Ben Davies, 2013

Start on the rail underneath the chockstone and pull out and over the top for the mantle. Only use holds and footers on the chockstone itself and not on the boulders on either side.

Sit start. Start on lh crimp and rh poor diagonal gaston, then up to a shallow groove and into a pocket. The alternative rh pinch might make it a bit easier. Try and hold on until the end. Cruxy sit.

FA: David Nott, 2013

Mantle the left side of the boulder.

FA: David Nott, 2013

A proud line striking upwards seven metres above the ground and over a roughly 10 metre, wretched fall with a good chance of a roll down the hill afterward. There are no bolts on this climb, and the first ascensionist requests you keep it that way. The lower crack will take some natural protection, but peters out at around the four metre mark. You may be able to fiddle something in above the shaky flake. There's a shaky flake, by the way. Two cruxes - the start and the little rooflet. Don't go left or right at the rooflet unless you want to shake out. This is the main line - start from the ground up a bit of a compression boulder problem, not on top of the boulder in front! Top out, enjoy the mantle.

FA: David Nott, 2012

A proud line striking upwards seven metres above the ground and over a roughly 10 metre, wretched fall with a good chance of a roll down the hill afterward. There are no bolts on this climb, and the first ascensionist requests you keep it that way. The lower crack will take some natural protection, but peters out at around the four metre mark. You may be able to fiddle something in above the shaky flake. There's a shaky flake, by the way. One crux- the little rooflet. Don't go left or right at the rooflet. As it's the pussy variant, you can use the boulder in front to avoid the beginning boulder problem. Pussy. Easy enough to set up a top-rope. Top out.

FA: David Nott, 2012

A meaningless amble up some massive jugs which avoids all the fun of the problem to the right.

FA: David Nott, 2012

Activity

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