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Table of contents

1. Southern Tablelands 1,116 routes in Crag

Boulder, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 149.560756, -34.821083

1.1. Cinderella Crag 24 routes in Crag

All Sport
Unique Features And Strengths:

A new sport-climbing crag up steep white and orange sandstone. It is full of features and up to 40 metres in height. French translation of Cinderella is "of the ashes"


Crag gets morning sun, and shade after about 1pm. The base of the crag is a bit of a dustbowl - bring a large rope tarp. The crag also appears to heavily seep after extended rain.

Access Issues:

None… Until they lock the fire road gate then expect a long walk or bike ride. Keep a low profile when drilling, there are some people lurking around the fire trails on the weekends. Well maintained fire trail access is fine with a 2WD


From Sydney, get on the M31 freeway and head south, take the XXXXX exit. From here locate XXXXX XXXXX road and follow this for 3.5 km, cross the railway and turn left into XXXX XXXXXX and continue for a further 4.5km until your speedo reads 8km. I think the road changes its name somewhere along this section of road to Wxxxx XXXXX Reset your speedo here at house number 392.

0.1km - Cross the railway

0.8km - Pass thru open gate and continue along dirt fire trail for 4.5km (just under 10min drive)

5.3km - Arrive at commuter car park

From here its an easy 2 min walk to the crag (follow the grey tape in the trees)

Where To Stay:

Camping is possible at the top of the crag.


Ring bolted sport routes with lower offs


Discovered by Mark Farrell 15 years ago. Simon Vaughan given a pass after much badgering.

1.1.1. Top Deck 3 routes in Sector


A short, overhung wall of good rock above and left of the main wall - directly above Wee Bean & First Blood.


On the walk in, you will find a fixed rope leading across an orange wall to the big ledge and DRB belay. Stay clipped in at all times!

Descent Notes:

All routes have lower-offs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project - 3rd Dwarf

Set by Simon Vaughan, 2014

Sport Project 10m
2 * Prince Charming

Middle route up a series of orange scoops and edges.

Set by Simon Vaughan, 2013

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2014

22Sport 10m
3 Project - Pumpkin Pumper

Right most of 3 routes on the party ledge, past bulge on the prow and up to anchors of Django Unchained

Set by Simon Vaughan, 2014

Sport Project 10m

1.1.2. Pitt Street Wall 11 routes in Sector


The main wall and the first reached when you get to the bottom of the cliff. Nice white and orange rock with a squillion ringbolts. The start of all routes are quite hard on very polished white rock.


At the base of the descent gully.

Descent Notes:

All routes have lower-offs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Wee Bean

Up funky corner via steep moves. Sorta tricky for 19 when you don't know the moves.

Set by Matt Tranter

FFA: Matt Tranter, 2013

19Sport 12m
2 Matt T Project - Ugly Sister

Up prow

Set by Matt Tranter

Sport 12m
3 Matt T Project - The Thingy in Betweeny

Set by Matt Tranter, 2013

Sport Project
4 * First Blood

Up white stuff to punchy crux, well actually tricky down low as well

FFA: Simon Vaughan, 2013

21Sport 15m
5 * Django

First large rock cairn. Up toughish start to a series of stepped overlaps. Anchors halfway up wall at large horizontal break.

FFA: Simon Vaughan, 2013

20Sport 15m, 5
6 *** Unchained

Django extension to the top of the cliff on perfect orange stone. Straight up from the anchors on D, then move leftwards around the blunt arete to anchors under the roof.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2013

23Sport 25m
7 ** Temple of Doom

Start on the second large rock cairn. Stick clip first bolt (if you are scared, useless or don't feel like an honest challenge) for bouldery start. Up for two bolts, clip high third bolt, then drop down and traverse hard right into Agent Orange for a couple of moves then back left to 4th bolt. Tricky move up to small ledge on the left - then up nice wall for a bolt then traverse left into mini corner feature to rap anchors.

FFA: Simon Vaughan, 2013

22Sport 18m, 8
8 ** MontBundy Steel Fabrication Co.

The logical (and better?) finish to Temple of Doom straight up the longest section of orange rock. Climb TD for 7 bolts then head straight up trending slightly right rather than traversing off left. Finish through bulge to anchors on small ledge under large roof.

FA: Neil Monteith & Veronica Trainor, 2014

22Sport 25m, 10
9 60 bolts in 60 minutes - Bundy Project

Start up AO and pop up over the break and veer up and left. Heave up over the final bulge to anchors up high under the final roof.

Set by Jason Lammers, 2014

Sport 25m
10 ** Agent Orange

One of the best routes here. Starts on the third large rock cairn. The usual bouldery start then easier ground to white rooflet. Tricky over this then beautiful waves of orange to low set of anchors. Mantle above optional!

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2014

23Sport 25m
11 * Wasp That Was

Bit of move at the 2nd bolt, then long cruise to the top of the cliff. Still needs a bit of TLC to get an extra star

Set by Tom Farrell

FA: Tom Farrell, 2014

25Sport 30m

1.1.3. White Knight Wall 3 routes in Sector


The continuation of Pitt Street Wall to the right. This is mostly heavily vegetated but a couple of routes force there way through the greenery. White Knight is the only worthwhile route.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Mantle Mania

Vegetated, loose and with at least six mantles. Worst line of the crag.

FA: Tom Farrell, 2014

Set by Mark Farrell, 2014

22Sport 30m
2 *** White Knight

Rad moves on slick white stone to the crux which is guarded by a bulge where the orange rock starts.

Set by Jason Lammers, 2014

FA: Jason Lammers, 2014

24Sport 30m
3 PROJECT - Hillbilly Heaven

The perfect orange streak on a high ledge.

  1. Up the common start and climb Simon's arete thingo to the break. Long sling here and walk across the ledge the belay.

  2. Up the the bright orange scoops getting thinner as you gain altitude.

To get off lower both climbers back to the belay ledge and rap to the floor.

* ran out of glue, so only half the bolts are glued *

Set by Jason Lammers, 2013

Sport Project 40m

1.1.4. Pumper Wall 4 routes in Sector


45m of steep over hanging stone. 3 routes off the communal start at the moment and scope for a couple more routes off the balcony.


The next wall past the vertical wall.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Ballroom project

Beautiful steep arete up to short black headwall up high

Set by Simon Vaughan

Sport 35m
2 ** Octavius Jenga Project

Start up the communal rungs then follows the glass slipper for a couple of bolts before heading left.. Steep moves see you up a mini arete to where the route really picks up its heels. Place you 'hopes in slopes' with a big move from a small undercling.

Set by Ben Jenga, 2014

Sport Project 28m, 16
3 *** The Glass Slipper

Start up left side of glamorous and daunting 45 metre steepness trending right to super high dramatic finish

FA: Matt Brooks

Set by Matt Brooks

FFA: Matt Brooks, 2013

26Sport 40m
4 ** Daydreamin.

Fix a 60m rope, Rap from a tree at the top with the rock cain onto the balcony halfway down the wall. Make sure you keep kicking off the wall and clip a few draws to make it on the ledge. Tricky slab start then traverse left to steep jugs leading up to the fridge hugging crux. Awesome steep top corner finishes this route off with style.

Set by Ben Jenga, 2014

FFA: Ben JengA, Katie, 2014

24Sport 18m

1.1.5. Sandy Cave 2 routes in Sector


Steep rock hard cave with fine white sandy bottom.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Tweedledum

Short, bolted boulder problem but the hold at the bottom and the cool rock made it impossible not to. Swing energetically from the pocket up to the white gold. Will it go through the roof, big guns?

FA: Ryan Hanvey \ Matt Tranter, 2014

23Sport Project 2
2 Tweedledee

Project Ryan and Matt. 3D, mad. Fun Short. Haters will have lots to moan about on this one. Love it.

Sport Project 8m, 4

1.1.6. Vertical Face 1 route in Sector


Area of vertical faces left of the Sandy Cave.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Long Walk To Freedom.

Start on the cool ladder (unless you are right hard) Up the crack system to the face above. Reachy last move.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2014

23Sport 20m, 8

1.2. Bungonia Gorge 220 routes in Crag

Boulder, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.009497, -34.798623

Unique Features And Strengths:

Limestone gorge two hours from Sydney, three from the blue mountains. Need I say more. Only 1.5hrs from Canberra


Up to 300m limestone multi-pitch climbing with single pitch sport and bouldering at the base. Some shorter climbs are on scattered crags at the top of the gorge (Reflux Crag, Adams Lookout area). Rap-in, climb-out area at Cooee Point.

Access Issues:

The park is occasionally closed for feral animal control. Check here: http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/alert/state-alerts


For the main deal, 3 min drive to the look out and then 30-40 min steep walk down the red track into the slot canyon. Cooee Point, Reflux Crag and Adams Lookout are a 15 minute walk from the car, if you find your way OK.

Where To Stay:

Camping on site. $10 per night plus $7 per car.

1.2.1. North Wall 36 routes in Area

Trad, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.016861, -34.795278

Description:© (redheckler)

This wall, one of the two main walls of the gorge, has some amazing routes. Unlike the 'South Wall', though, you have to rap back down whatever you've climbed all the way to the floor of the gorge, then walk out the long grind back uphill to the car. Allow an hour or two for the rap descent and walk-out, and bring a head torch!

Approach:© (redheckler)

The walk-down should take 25-30 minutes to the creekbed, then another few minutes to walk 100-200m down the creek to where the routes are. 'North Wall' is on your left as you walk downstream.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Operation Zucchini

Climb to the roof and get some threads. Pull over this and up to a tree belay.

Start: Start at the extreme left hand end of the 'North Wall' below a water polished buttress with a small roof at 10m. This is about 200m downstream of the red track.

FA: Tony Barten, Mike Peck, 1986

18Trad 30m
2 ** She Wolf in the Closet

FA: Chris Warner, 2014

19Sport 22m
3 ** Hips Don't Lie

Start up the water groove to the tree, then crimp up past the hanging roots to chain.

FA: Chris Warner, 2014

19Sport 25m
4 ** Arctic Cat

FA: Chris Fitzgerald, 2014

21Sport 25m
5 ** Black Holes

FA: Chris Warner, Kristy Shelley, 2014

19Sport 25m
6 Green Peace

Not often repeated.

  1. 30m (17) Up the easy corner to a tree and then traverse right to a ledge belay.

  2. 45m (19) Cut back leftwards and continue up flakes, scoops and greenery to a good stance.

  3. 45m (16) Climb the ledges and scoops and trees leftwards to a tree belay.

FA: Matt Madin, Andrew Kean, 1986

19Trad 120m
7 Roger Ramjet

Apparently better than 'Green Peace'.

  1. 20m (19) Up the thin wall to the big ledge.

  2. 45m (20) Head straight up to a stance.

FA: Matt Madin, Dave Magregor mid 80s, 1986

20Trad 65m
8 Solar Wind
  1. 20m (17) Same as Rum, Bum and Gramophones pitch 1. When at the big ledge walk left to belay at the prominent flake.

  2. 40m (21) All natural. Climb the flake then traverse left to easier ground. Now straight up to tree belay.

  3. 30m (14) Follow ledges and scoops and belay where convenient.

  4. 25m (12) Continue rightwards to 5th belay of 'Strangeness and Charm'.

FA: John Fantini, W Moon, 1987

21Trad 120m
9 ** Rum Bum And Gramophones

Classic jug pulling in places, wandering and scary in others.

Start: Starts under the right side of a big ledge at 20m, in rather vegetated terrain.

  1. 20m (17) Up to belay on right side of big ledge.

  2. 45m (21) Ape up some wild jugs for 8m (bomber threads). Step right and move up leaving the steep ground and good holds for tenuous slabbing. Follow a series of snaking grooves (sparse protection) to belay in a recess (thread and sapling).

  3. 40m (20) Continue straight up for 4m then left to the buttress. Follow the loose corner system on its left side. Look for a good stance at 40m.

  4. 30m (12) Finish more easily to the 5th belay on 'Strangeness and Charm'.

FA: John Smoothy, W Moon, 1984

21Trad 140m
10 Cosmic Tickler

Take the right side of the steepening buttress and follow it to connect with the final crux on 'Strangeness and Charm'. Belay at the bathtub on the top of pitch 4 of Strangeness.

Start: Start from the top of pitch 2 of Rum, Bum and Gramophones.

FA: John Fantini, Matt Madin, 1987

22Trad 45m
11 ** Space Quakes

Takes a line left of 'Strangeness and Charm' all the way.

  1. 45m (24) Climb easily to a bulge and then move through it with caution to a bolt, then onwards to another bolt on top of a flake. Step down and teeter leftwards for several metres (24) to reach flake on left. Move leftwards into a groove and continue up past another bolt with some interesting moves on flakes to gain the bolt belay on right.

  2. 45m (21) Up more easily to the top of the flake and traverse horizontally right for 3m. Keep moving up trending right past a few flakes to the 3rd belay on Strangeness.

  3. 45m (22) Traverse back leftwards and upwards to a prominent spike and climb its left side on the steepening rock above. Place a good wire at the bulge and make a hard couple of moves to reach the 4th belay on Strangeness.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, John Fantini, 1989

24Trad 140m
12 ** Strangeness and Charm - Direct Start

The left hand line through the overlap. 'Excellent'. More committing than 'Wailing Cockatoo'. 6 FHs in total. Rebolted 2012.

FA: Giles Bradbury, Greg Moore, 1984

23Mixed 45m, 6
13 Synchrotron

Direct through the small roof below the 2nd belay on 'Strangeness and Charm'. Rather extreme. Straight up to the roof using side runners. Slot a 1 friend in the roof, clip a bolt and swing over the roof (crux). Continue past three more bolts.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Glenn Tempest, 1989

26Trad 45m
14 ** Wailing Cockatoo

Probably the best single pitch that starts from ground level in the Gorge. It's THE way to do 'Strangeness and Charm' direct, a humdingin' pitch completely in keeping with the rest of Strangeness. There is a grade 22 and 24 variant.

Start directly under the 2nd belay on Strangeness, where an overlap at 12m decreases in size towards the right. Up the crack to large scoop (wires). A few more moves give way to a bolt. Get the hollow sounding flake above and trend leftwards past a bolt and straight up towards two more bolts which are 3m apart. Either whimp out left to connect with " Strangeness and Charm Direct DS" (grade 22) or directly upwards past a 4th bolt (grade 24).

FA: John Fantini, Mike Law-Smith, 1988

FA: Glenn Tempest (grade 24 direct), 1989

22Mixed 45m, 5
15 *** Critical Mass


  1. 20m (22) Thin wall climbing (4 bolts) leads to a cute belay in a scoop.

  2. 25m (24) Leftwards up the slab to a bolt. Straight up to cross the 'Strangeness and Charm' traverse to a steep headwall. Straight up this past 2 more bolts to a belay chain.

  3. 40m (23) Some delicate slabbing left from the belay leads to a bolt. Clip this and continue up past 3 more bolts and eventually stepping left to the 3rd belay on Strangeness.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Richard Smith, 1989

24Trad 85m
16 ** Comet Chaser

Climbed onsight ground up with no pre-inspection. Thus it is scary, sustained and badly bolted. Admirable none the less.

  1. 45m (22) Start directly below a niche and move out left and up the steep rock on good positive holds to reach the left end of a small ledge. Place a #3 friend in a hole, traverse right and up a small corner to reach the 1st belay of 'Strangeness and Charm'.

  2. 20m (24) Straight up to a good wire placement in the overlap, move left and upwards to gain the prominent small corner. Continue up past a hard move to gain the hanging belay at a short crack.

  3. 45m (24) A long pitch on natural gear. Climb the left side of the flake before traversing right to gain a series of pockets which lead to a solitary bolt up high. Hard moves past this to a bolt belay above.

  4. 40m (22) Continue straight up past a few fixed wires to join 'Galactic Wanderer'.

FA: John Fantini, Mike Law-Smith (1 aid), 1986

FFA: S Boyden, M Snell, 1987

24Trad 150m
17 Microwave

Just right of 'Comet Chaser', a single pitch direct to the 1st belay of 'Strangeness and Charm'. The crux is at the bulge.

FA: John Fantini, Mike Law-Smith, 1986

21Trad 45m
18 *** Strangeness and Charm

Really good climbing, with atmosphere. All new bolts now.

Start: Start below a short wide crack at the left edge of a treed ledge. If you are having problems finding the start and are unfamiliar with the gorge, walk across to the other side of the creek and suss out the route from there, the footpads of the traverse on pitch 2 are fairly obvious.

  1. 45m (18) Up the crack, step right (wires) and up to a ledge and tree. Move left 3m and climb up to a scoop (wires). From the scoop continue left and up to the small belay ledge (two FHs). This pitch is quite runout.

  2. 20m (18) Traverse left with trepidation past two spaced FHs and a medium cam slot to an assortment of vintage chains (hanging belay).

  3. 35m (22) Up, follow the groove past three FH (crux) before crossing to the left side out of the crack (feels desperate) then up to belay stance. A stout and sustained pitch requiring a good rack inc slings for thread.

  4. 20m (22) Left up flakes and up to a FH, move rightwards over the bulge (crux) past carrot bolt and FH and then trend left up to the awesome bathtub cave belay (rap chain).

  5. 30m (19) Up to a bolt before trending a little down and left to the bent blackbody, continue up dusty groove past another bolt and and trend left through the steep bulge on jugs.. "No-one bothers with this pitch" - actually, quite a lot of people do it, it's not bad. Be aware that the abseil back to the 4th belay is a bit diagonal. There is now new chains a further 8m up and right at a stance giving a better rap line down.

FA: G Bradbury, G Moore, 1984

22Trad 160m
19 ** Galactic Wanderer

Good. If only the corner were 10 times as long.

Start: Start as for 'Strangeness and Charm'.

  1. 40m (19) Up Strangeness to ledge and tree, follow it leftwards a few metres to scoop with wires. 'Galactic Wanderer' departs Strangeness here, and trends up and right past a bolt to a double bolt belay.

  2. 20m (25) (Or 21M1) Up with care to a bolt at 8m, then slightly left to the overlap and more bolts. Either aid up and left or pull impossible looking moves to the base of the dihedral (the last bolt is hidden behind a bush). Bridge up the corner (wires) to the belay.

  3. 50m (21) With care up and right to a bolt, over a terrifyingly poised and dangerous flake. Up past another two bolts and trend leftwards to the belay.

  4. 50m (20) Continue a leftward trend aiming for the protruding grass tree above.

FA: Pitches 1 & 2: Giles Bradbury, Greg Moore. Pitches 3 & 4: John Fantini, Matt Madin, 1985

21 A1Aid 160m
20 Cosmos

A more direct start to 'Galactic Wanderer'. Looks runout.

Start: Start about 5m right of 'Strangeness and Charm'.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1986

22Trad 45m
21 *** Big, Dark and Mysterious

1st line of fixed hangers to the right of the start of strangeness

  1. 36m (21) Really good climbing and worth doing as a single pitch. Follow up the Fixe hangers to chains (some long slings are helpful). Lowering off using al 70m rope will JUST make it down to the ground.

  2. 35 m (27) Solid climbing that would give an impressive on-sight. Follow the steel to finish at a semi-hanging belay. Originally done without the last bolt.

  3. -m (30) Sail out into the slab with solid sustained climbing on a long pitch.

FFA: Jan

FA: Graham Fairbain, 2005

22 ** Masters of the Universe

An old Andrew Bull/Tony Barton project cleaned up and finished by Graham Fairbain. Climb details to be verified. At least 6 pitches - crux pitch of 26/27. Sport route on fixed hangers.

Please note that the description and grades are preliminary only.

You'll need two ropes to get down. It is possible to retreat from any of the belays. The rap line, however, does not not follow the route directly (i.e., you can't easily stop at pitches 2 or 3 on the way down because the pitches above them traverse and they are steepish. So best not to leave stuff you want to collect on the way down at these belays (e.g., don't leave your extra clothes etc. in the hole!).

Start: Line of hangers to the right of Big, dark and mysterious.

  1. 20m (18) Start in short open corner and head up following bolts. A small/medium nut reduces the runout up the slab. Belay on bolts just below the first overlap.

  2. 20m (23) Cruxy. Out roof (crux) and up slabby wall. Continue past rap anchor and two more bolts to bolted belay up under the second overlap. It may be more comfortable to belay at the rap anchor - it gives a better view of the next pitch.

  3. 25m (26) Traverse left from the belay to the stalagtite and out the overlap. Into the corner to the right, up a couple of metres and head left and up following bolts. Belay in the big hole. Great climbing!

  4. 45m (23) A great, sustained pitch. Out of the belay hole to the left and follow bolts up. At about the half-way mark is an obvious thread that may make the run out a bit more comfortable, it requires a 120cm sling. Where the bolts trend right, use a couple of long slings to reduce drag. At about 35m, clip a bolt to the right (long sling) and head up and left easily to the belay.

Be cautious rapping from here - if you thread all three bolts the rope may not pull. Rap to anchor on ledge 10m left of the third belay. Rap again to station halfway up Pitch 2, and again to the ground.

  1. -m (25) Up orange corner system. After corner bust right to chains.

  2. -m (21) Continue up to finish at chains. Rap route.

FA: Graham Fairbain, 2005

26Sport 160m
23 Chicken Head Row

The overhanging line.

  1. 20m (25) Up past the overhanging block (crux) to gain the tree belay above.

  2. 25m (20) Up the wall past a bolt and a series of chicken heads to hanging double bolt belay.

FFA: Richard Watts

FA: John Fantini, Dave Magregor, 1989

21 A1Aid 45m
24 * Morgan Mortimer Route

Hard and amazing for its day. Still amazing.

  1. 50m (22) A hard start with no gear gives way to a good short crack higher up. Now move left across the void and up into a shallow groove with a piton. Continue up to gain the top of a small pedestal. Natural belay.

  2. 25m (22) Directly up to a bolt/stud before dropping down to traverse out right to gain a groove. Upwards, then bridging, to a double bolt belay.

FA: Pete Morgan, Greg Mortimer mid 70s, 1975

22Trad 75m
25 ** Coal Sack
  1. 40m (22) As for Morgan Mortimer to the stance on top of a small block.

  2. 40m (21) Gain the traverse weakness out right and continue until forced to drop down to the big ledge and tree to belay.

  3. 40m (22) Start right of the tree. Up on small holds for a few metres before heading left a short way. Then up and right to the belay.

  4. 40m (21) (21M1) Straight up on pockets before going to aid for 5 moves because of calcified rock. Continue up over chicken heads to thread belay.

  5. 35m (21) Continue up groove and flake system then horizontally right to sapling. Follow the weakness upwards before being forced to move left around an awkward groove. Hanging stance on the left with rap anchor.

FA: John Fantini, Dave Magregor, 1985

22 A1Aid 200m
26 Red Shift

Connects 'Jewel Box' to 'Coal Sack'.

  1. 42m (23) Up 'Jewel Box' to hanging belay in large scoop just below the cave.

  2. 50m (22) Traverse leftwards until the holds runout and you are forced to do a tension traverse to gain more holds and join the 3rd pitch of 'Coal Sack'.

  3. 40m (21) (21M1) Same as 'Coal Sack' pitch 4.

  4. 35m (21) Same as 'Coal Sack' pitch 5.

FA: John Fantini, Matt Madin, 1985

23 A1Aid 170m
27 *** Dark Side of a Loon

Starts 5m left of Jewel Box

  1. (25) 30m Start on the grungy looking slab left of the corner to a 5m roof then pull the lip and pump on till the ledge. One of the best pitches from the gorge floor.

  2. (24) 40m Continue up on bolts that snake around, take 2 long runners. Finish under the little orange roof.

  3. (23) 15m A short pitch. Pull the roof then great sustained climbing till the semi hanging belay.

FA: Chris Warner, 2008

25Sport 85m
28 ** Jealous Mistress

Hard and sustained, start a few metres right of the overhang on bolts. Goes up 4 pitches and nicely run out at times.

FA: Graham Fairbairn, 2007

29 *** Jewel Box

Sustained and strenuous, a classic. Protection is hard to place on the first pitch, and friends have been known to pull out of glassy placements. Take it easy.

  1. 50m (23) Start on the left edge of the cave. An unprotected start leads to a #3 friend at 9m. Move left around bulge to a steep wall with a fixed sling. Thin moves up this to a ledge (crux) and a no hands rest. Teeter left to surmount the block and then up to a small cave. More sustained but well protected climbing brings you to the belay cave.

  2. 50m (23) Lean back and place a wire just above the cave. Step down and traverse leftwards for a few moves and then follow a line of holds to the roof. There is a 2/2.5 friend up high and to the left as well as a fixed pin. Head right through the roof to a rest. Easier climbing leads to a stance at 50m with two bolts.

  3. 50m (21) Take the rising groove to the left and continue up leftwards in a rising arc to a block in the overlap. Pull the overlap and continue up a few metres before traversing left to the groove. Up the groove (wires) until it is possible to traverse out left to a bolt rap station.

FFA: pitch 1 J Demontjoy

FA: John Fantini, Tony Barten, 1984

FFA: pitch 2 Chris Plant and Ton Snelder, 1986

23Trad 150m
30 Hyperspace

Start: Start 6m right of 'Jewel Box'.

  1. 35m (29) Excellent sustained climbing on bolts to the little cave above with a fixed anchor.

  2. 25m (21) (21M1) Straight up the groove past many bolts to a belay underneath the roof.

  3. 40m (22) (22M1) Aid through the roof to wall above, then move right to flake. Up through the overlap then left and up to a niche and bolt belay.

  4. 25m (19) Move left and up to the buttress above on beautiful rock. The route finishes at the bottom of the impossible looking buttress. Bolts to rap off.

FFA: Zac Vertrees

FA: John Fantini (uncertain - pre 1996?), 1990

29 A1Aid 130m
31 ** Olympus Mons

Has this had a second ascent? Covers mind boggling terrain.

Takes all the orange overhanging corners at the downstream end of the north wall. All belays are on bolts.

  1. 40m (26) Start at the overhanging crack/roof and cruise through to the wall and cave above. Out over the cave lip and trend diagonally right to a bolt belay.

  2. 40m (21) (21M1) Surmount overlap and traverse left. Over another overlap, ho-hum, to finish up a crack and the next niche belay.

  3. 30m (21) (21M1) Crack and slab above and move right and up a steep little buttress to gain the belay.

  4. 40m (21) (21M1) Step right and over the bulge to gain the big corner. Continue free up to the 3 bolts which traverse right across a little orange face to the lip of the overhang. Now up the crack to the belay.

  5. 30m (21) Up the orange rock to a bolt. Traverse left at the line to gain a steep groove and bulge which leads to a belay ledge.

  6. 40m (22) This pitch is on beautiful grey slabby rock. Start in the corner and take a leftwards sloping crack to gain the vertical groove which leads to easier ground and trees.

FFA: pitch 1, Rolando Archer

FA: John Fantini, Keith Bell, 1991

26 A1Aid 220m
32 *** pitch 1

FA: C Warner - date uncertain, 2000

25Sport 26m
33 Crab Nebula

Probably good for sussing out the hard stuff below. Pitch 1 is not great.

  1. 50m (19) Start at the very downstream end of the roofs. Up choss to a tree.

  2. 35m (20) Scoops cracks and ledge left to tree belay.

  3. 30m (17) Leftwards past a tree to a good stance.

  4. 30m (16) Traverse left to 2nd belay on 'Jewel Box'.

  5. 40m (21) Up 'Jewel Box' for 5m then diagonally left to the 4th belay on 'Coal Sack'.

  6. 35m (21) Same as 'Coal Sack' pitch 5.

FA: John Fantini, Dave Magregor, 1985

21Trad 220m
34 *** Teflon

Fantastic rock and sustained. 12 bolts on the white wall.

FA: Lee Cossey, 2001

31Trad 23m
35 Premonition

Start 60m right of 'Olympus Mons' at the toe of the wide prominent buttress. No bolts. Scary.

  1. 45m (14) Wander up the buttress to belay at a ledge.

  2. 50m (17) Continue up the buttress to a tree belay.

  3. 40m (22) Scary and hard. Follow the line to the steep wall right of the prominent corner. Up the wall trending rightwards on the obvious, steep line of holds. Belay at a grasstree after the wall kicks back.

  4. 35m (18) Up the slab to rejoin the very loose corner. Belay at a fixed hex up high. Rap the route to retreat.

FA: Vera Wong, Andrew McAuley, 1998

22Trad 170m
36 *** Planet Gorgonberg

Great climbing on the wall just right of 'Olympus Mons'.

FA: Andrew Bull, 2001

27Trad 20m

1.2.2. Chicken Wall 3 routes in Area

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.019640, -34.795756

Description:© (secretary)

Being on the North side of the gorge, you have to allow time to rap off after doing these routes then walk out.

Approach:© (secretary)

Further downstream of the buttress climbed by 'Olympus Mons' is a yellow wall about 60m uphill. I.e. 'Chicken Wall' is the eye catching yellow wall on the righthand end of the 'North Wall'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cossey Project

Three pitches of epic hard climbing - bolted ground up. Starts as for Finger Lickn' Good but continues up and left.

P1 (60m, 27)

P2 (55m, 32) Is this the longest hard pitch in Oz?

P3 (40m, -) The crux pitch?

Sport Project
2 Finger Lickin' Good

The left line. 9 Bolts.

FA: Andrew Bull, 1999

23Sport 25m, 9
3 Hawaiian Pack

The right line. 11 bolts.

FA: Rob LeBreton, 1999

24Sport 30m, 11

1.2.3. South Wall 37 routes in Cliff

Trad, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.017406, -34.796539


Gets the sun all day up high, hence good for winter climbing. However the Siblings headwall gets shade from about 4pm in the warmer months, allowing a few hours for shady evening climbing if you time your approach accordingly.


Park at William Mitchell carpark. Most people walk down, to do this follow the Red Track into the slot canyon (25-30 minutes). Turn right when you reach the creek bed. Walk downstream for a few minutes; the south wall is on your right.

It is also possible to abseil in. Get to the top of Siblings by walking down the Red Track for 5minutes until the first 10m high outcrop appears about 100m to your left, where you will find a well trodden path which breaks off to the right and then traverses across the hillside for about 300m. Once you reach the front of a broad ridge, the top of Siblings is about 100m down the ridge. The rap chains are a few metres from the clifftop, but you still need to approach with caution as the scree is a bit loose. Bring a rope protector for the top edge; and its probably best to fix a rope on the top abseil at least. You can get to the riverbed in 4 abseils (approx 30m, 55m, 55m, 55m). It might even be possible in three long abseils, given that from the clifftop to fifth belay is 60-65m (keep up a swing), fifth belay to third belay is 60-65m, and third belay to ground/bouldertops is about 60-70m(??). The three abseil approach has NOT been tested, but there are plenty of intermediate bolted anchors if you needed to change tactics.

Descent Notes:©

Many routes top out. To get back to the car its a pretty easy (15-20 minute) walk uphill. Option 1 is to follow the ridge (above Siblings) all the way to the hilltop (~10 minutes), then turn left and follow the plateau rim left through the scrub for about 300m to reach Bungonia Lookdown. Option 2 is to go up the ridge above Siblings for about 100m then pick up a well-trodden trail which heads R (W) and traverses for about 300m into the gully to join the Red Track. Option 1 is quicker if you have a car at the Lookdown but Option 2 is just as quick to the Red Track carpark and is better graded (less steep bits).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Pulsar Slab

These routes are located at the downstream end of the gorge, on a slick water polished grey slab directly above the boulder choke section. There are a smattering of bolts.

1 Slope'n Soap'n

This route is the furthest downstream, about 2m left of the Pulsar corner.

  1. 25m (24) A wide bridge across to a bolt (hanger and nut missing - 2014). Sustained climbing past 5 more FHs. Chain belay.

  2. 25m (21) A fun pitch with good pro. Up the crack then left to a bolt, traverse left and up a slippery wall to a ledge. Rap off tree.

FA: Tony Barten, Andrew Bull pitch 1 1990. Andrew Bull, Craig Kentwell, Brogan Bunt pitch 2 1989, 1990

24Mixed 50m, 6
2 ** Pulsar

Nice low angle trad route with mostly good gear. Should be more popular - possibly the best easy trad route in the gorge?

  1. 20m (18) Bridge across from the large boulder until the subtle corner crack can be gained. Up this until it ends, then traverse left to flake and up it to left end of small ledge and rap/belay bolts.

  2. 25m (18) Continue up trad protected corner crack until it ends then step left and delicately up to a small tree and bizarre but bomber rap anchor.

FA: Phil Georgeff, Bill Begg, Matt Madin, 1985

18Trad 45m
3 Lithiam Ricochet (Closed Multi-Pitch Project)

First pitch has been sent and is ok to climb, but rest is a closed project. Will be at least 10 pitches, equaling Red Supernova as the longest route in the Gorge. Pitches 2-11 are currently being cleaned and bolted so stay off please.

  1. 20m (22) Start as for Pulsar for first couple of metres then step right to smaller right facing flake and U-bolt. Up flake and wall above to small ledge and belay/rap anchors. This pitch is all bolts. 6 in total.

  2. 40m () Bolted finger crack weakness just right of Pulsar corner then slab and back into trad protected finger crack to under bulge. Over bulge with difficulty (bolts) and up technical slab to right leading flake feature and juggier wall (trad) to belay ledge on the left and rap belay/rapp anchor. 8 bolts and medium wires/cams on this pitch.

  3. 30m () Straight up slab above then trend left to arete. Up this onto wall with a hard move back left at the jugs and poor rock. A fixed sling helps a hard to clip bolt. Finish up juggy wall to large ledge and belay/rap anchors.

  4. 15m () Easy slab up and left to base of monster tufa and headwall.

  5. 50m () Stem up monster tufa then right trending mega pitch. Will be hard!

  6. 20m () Easy crack then chossy easy corner going up and right to large dirty ledge. All bolts.

7. 8.

9. 10.


Set by Matt Brooks, Neil Monteith & Leith Dawes, 2014

FA: Neil Monteith & Richard Sonnerdale (pitch 1 only), 11th Oct

Trad Project 90m
4 * Stardust

The next line right with four spaced FHs. Apparently there is no rap anchor so after the last bolt and below the overlap traverse left a long way to rap anchors above Pulsar.

FA: Scott Camps, 1985

20Sport 50m, 4
5 Startrek

The grotty slab next right.

18Trad 50m
6 Antique

Up the slab past three bolts to ledge and tree.

20Sport 50m, 3

South Wall Main Section

50m upstream from the Pulsar Slab, where the jungle vegetation comes right down to the base of the cliff.

7 * In The Lap Of The Mountain Gods

Can be used as a variant start to 'Red Supergiant'.

  1. 40m (21) Up the thin crack and wall to overlap. Follow the line leftwards and up past a fixed peg to a ledge and tree. Now either take the crack above all the way or merge into the left crack. Finish easily up the arete to a good stance with bolts.

  2. 25m (17) Move up the right side of the arete and continue trending right to the 2nd belay on 'Red Supergiant'.

FA: Will Moon, Bruce Cameron, 1985

21Trad 65m
8 *** Red Supergiant

An alpine mega classic. Long loose and natural. Finishes at the highest point on the cliff, the Cooee Lookdown. Take plenty of long slings and big friends.

Start: A chipped square marks the start.

  1. 45m (20) Delicate moves up the slab to a series of ledges. Move leftwards into the corner and up it. A steep pull onto the ledge leads to the anchors.

  2. 45m (20) Up 2m, then follow holds leading right. Continue right to a corner in the overlap (wires). Over this (crux) to easier ground and tree. Trend leftwards, through overlap at 6m, then onto belay 8m above.

  3. 50m (16) Left to a corner, up this and through the overlap. Up the ramp to a tree.

  4. 50m (12) Scrub bash up the ramp to a tree.

  5. 45m (13) Deciding when to move right is tricky. Up for 10m. Move right on ledges, over and across some loose big blocks, moving horizontally right. Belay at the top of a block at the foot of the orange rock with some corners above.

  6. 30m (18) Much steeper, but well protected. Step right and up the corner. Over some choss, left a touch then up the next corner to belay.

  7. 50m (20) This pitch wanders, is fairly run out, and has a hard pockety start. Beware rope drag. Up over the bulge and trend right. Weave rightwards to avoid the very steep stuff, then step up and trend horizontally left to the splitter crack. Follow this corner up, then step right onto the ramp and set up belay in the cave.

  8. 50m (17 M1) (17A1) Scramble rightwards past a large stalactite to the end of the ramp. Drop down and right to a ledge at the base of the corner with the bolt in it. Aid past the bolt to a high #4 friend. This can be freed at grade 23. Pull onto easy ground and up this to a big overhang with large pockets. Move delicately up and rightwards onto the wall. Go up and over right to a #4 tube chock in a neat pocket. Now up the corner to the old lookout.

FA: John Fantini, Dave Magregor, 1985

20 M1Aid 370m
9 Rob LeBreton and Tim Booth's project

Takes a line through the big orange overhang left of its apex.

  1. -m (-) (25/26)

  2. -m (-) (23)

  3. -m (-) (20)

  4. -m (-) (28?) The pitch through the huge orange overhang.

10 Strider

From the ledge up through the rooflet and the wall above.

FA: Steve Schnell, 1989

16Trad 35m
11 ** Nitro Express

Awesome, can be combined with Screaming Tribesmen to make a sustained route to the top.

  1. 25m (19) Up through the overlap past 2 bolts to the tree and belay.

  2. 30m (22) Through the overhang on bolts and then on wires and bolts.

  3. 15m (23) Up the corner, then move left to the tree belay.

  4. 45m (23) Desperate moves through the bulge then up the slab. Either go left to the belay on 'Iron Curtain', or continue up through the stalactites to the belay at the base of the orange headwall.

FA: John Fantini, Keith Bell, 1991

23Trad 120m
12 * Arachnophobia

As slippery as a butcher's dick.

Start: Starts 5m right of 'Nitro Express'.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, Cath Eadie, Glenn Robbins, 1989

19Trad 35m
13 *** Asteroids

Best accessed by Iron Curtain into Screaming Tribesman


  1. 30m (25/26) Climb directly up off the belay following 6 Us and 5 old fixed hangers to a two U bolt belay on foot ledge. The route follows some of the steepest terrain and huge orange tufa by far some of the best climbing in the gorge at any grade. The initial three bolts is the crux but the whole pitch is very pumpy and sustained too! Well protected and easy to aid at 22/A1

  2. 30m (16) This is about 30m of traversing (passing a set of double FIXE hangers) then down climbs a 5m section of vegetated wall past two more FIXE hangers, then keep traversing left for another 15m. Look for the double U bolt belay.

  3. 30m (20) Climb pasted two FIXE hangers to a ledge the continue on rings to the double U bolt belay on a pleasant grey wall.

  4. 25m (24) Great pockets and orange wall climbing with many bolts to a ledge and double U bolt belay.

  5. 15m (20) Straightforward bolted climbing - at the top of the hard stuff you need to traverse left for about 4m then over a bulge past last bolt to double U bolt belay below large orange wall.

  6. 45m (23) Well bolted sport climbing - mostly cruisy jug hauling then a tricky bulgy finish. Once you top out on the 'rock-climbing' part you scramble up ledges and vegetation for another 15m to top of the wall (still on belay). Belay off trees.

Above this to get back to the car park walk left for 30m to the old Cooee lookout and old fences,then follow the overgrown green track to the car up the hill.

I reckon this new route by itself is two stars and combining it with Iron Curtain makes an awesome three star day of cranking! I can't think of many other sustained long routes in mainland Australia at that length? It's gotta be 350+ metres? Way longer than Evolution or Siblings.

Plenty of loose rock on all new pitches - bring a helmet and don't expect pristine Euro limestone...

FFA: Duncan Hunter, 2011

25Sport 220m
14 *** Iron Curtain

A great route to start with in the gorge, but it only climbs halfway up the wall. Well protected and not too hard. If you are falling up it with your eyes closed try continuing up 'Screaming Tribesman' to top out.

  1. 35m (21) The start is on the right hand end of a left-leaning ramp. Up a few moves, step right, clip a bolt, up to another bolt and a thin move to a pocket on the left. Now cruise through to a bolt belay behind the tree.

  2. 30m (22) Move left for about 5m until reaching some bolts heading through an overlap. Straight up past the abseil chains and through another overlap to a corner. Some tricky moves to exit the corner on the left and up to a double bolt/friend belay.

  3. 30m (22) Move left from the belay, slot in a wire then power on up the bulging wall and slab above. At about 25m clip a bolt and move right to a comfortable ledge belay. Can be combined with Pitch 4 with 50m ropes as a full 51m mega pitch.

  4. 30m (18) A good pitch. Move back out left and up the slab to the stalactite and to some threads. Up these, then follow the bolts up and slightly left over some loose ground. Belay at the base of the headwall.

FA: Pitch 1: Craig Kentwell, Andrew Bull, Brogan Bunt: Pitches 2 to 4: Andrew Bull, Craig Kentwell 1990, 1990

22Trad 130m
15 * Bob Yabbie

FA: David (Bobby) Gilbert, Greg Coterill, 1988

16 * Screaming Tribesman

A rarely repeated long involved adventure with very tricky route finding, some choss rock and fiddly gear. Bring a full rack, doubles of everything and lots of tiny cams. Double ropes a must, even if you are just using them for retreat! It's much more consumer friendly, and a classic climb, if you do 'Iron Curtain' then pitches 6-9 of this route.

  1. 35m (22) This first pitch was originally called 'Bob Yabbie' by visiting first ascentionists David Gilbert and Greg Coterill. Up the dirty badly protected slab to a bulge with a bolt. Difficult through the bulge, then more easily up the slabby cracks and pods (usually full of dirt) to a vegetated ledge with a bolt belay.

  2. 25m (21) Directly up past the overlap to a hanging good double friend belay at 25m.

  3. 20m (20) A good pitch. Short and interesting weaving up to a ledge and tree on the left.

  4. 15m (17) Out right side of ledge and up flake for a few metres until you can traverse hard left to right edge of ledge. Belay off two fixed pins which need to be unearthed. Originally graded 12!

  5. 40m (18) Was originally described as "interesting and varied" which translates into choss and danger. Climb directly up and leftwards on disintegrating slab to the tufa hole above. Sink the only good bit of gear on the pitch (3.5 friend) and continue up leftwards past dodgy chicken heads to traverse hard left over scary death flakes to DBB at the base of the orange headwall. Ignore bit of tat up high on traverse.

  6. 22m (23) Kickarse. A brilliant pitch. Head up the right-hand weakness on good wires and cams, going for the 'thank god' squeeze chimney rest. Wriggle forth. DBB (fixed hangers) plus a U bolt on the left edge of the ledge.

  7. 35m (25) (Or 22M1) This pitch traverses a long way right to the top of the pedestal on average rock, and then moves back left on the face above, finishing directly above the belay. Don't be fooled by the bolts leading directly up from the belay, these are for asteroids (25,26). From the top of the pedestal gymnastic moves past bolts and small cams lead to pockets out left and more bolts. Take care with the final moves (wires) to the DBB.

  8. 40m (19) Wandering. Head up the wall on pockets. Move right several metres, bridge across a corner and keep moving up and right up the ramp to a thread and bolt belay.

  9. 45m (15) Up following a corner system. Natural belay.

FA: John Fantini, Phil Georgeff and Dave Magregor worked on it. John Fantini and Ed Garnett made the first complete ascent, early's., 1990

25Aid 280m, 1
17 * The Misfits

A spectacular pitch tackling a very steep line through the Screaming Tribesmen orange cave. A variant on the best pitch of 'Screaming Tribesman' but even more awesome and harder.

Start: Start at a bomber gear belay just down and right of the DBB atop the 5th pitch of Iron Curtain/ Nitro Express/ 'Screaming Tribesman'.

FA: Ken Luck, Andrew McAuley, 1999

23 M1Trad 30m
18 ** Red Heat

Start: Starts just left of 'Evolution'.

  1. 45m (20) Start up an obvious weakness via a rising rightwards sloping break. After 3m, traverse leftwards and up to a horizontal weakness to its left end. Continue up on small face holds past a bolt to a small niche and trend horizontally right for 4m and up to the obvious big tree.

  2. 45m (21) Continue up the steep wall to the left of the tree on a series of interesting face moves for 10m to gain a ramp heading up and right. Scramble up the ramp until where it steepens (wires) move right, then back left (1 friend) and up to belay at the tree (it's wobbly and rotten - find the cam slot behind). This is the same belay as for top of 'Evolution' pitch 3.

  3. 25m (21) Move 4m right and slightly down until under steep corner. More strenuously up corner/groove to a small orange cave (cam belay).

  4. 50m (20) Head out leftwards from cave and to the top of the block (top of 'Evolution' pitch 4). Trend rightwards (leave the bolts of 'Evolution' to your left) and up diagonally past sinker friend pockets to the big orange cave.

  5. 12m (12) From the cave traverse right and up to another small cave at the foot of the steep groove. (Jump Master goes straight up from the right side of the cave).

  6. 25m (21) Up the overhanging groove on fantastic holds to chimney. Continue up to small ledge on left side. Move left 2m and up to the hanging belay on bomber nuts (big hexes useful)

  7. 40m (22) (22M1) The 'master blaster' pitch. Requires 8 long slings to minimise rope drag on the upper headwall. Up the steep groove on unique holds to its end (2 aid points used). Cut loose from the top the fixed aid stopper and step left with an adrenaline pumped brain to gain a small niche and sinker protection. Continue straight up and then diagonally right past a 4 friend pocket and a big thread.

FA: John Fantini, Keith Bell, 1990

22 A1Aid 240m
19 Old and Grey

(18M1). See topo. Finds its way up to the top by wandering through serious ground. A great effort for the time.

FA: Ian Brown, Don Fletcher, 1977

18 A1Aid 300m
20 Storm Front

Storm Front basically runs between Red Heat and 'Old and Grey'. The route is called 'Storm Front' because if you stand in the bottom of the gorge in the pissing rain getting wet the line shows up very clearly. The climb starts right of Red Heat. On pitch 1 there is a rock arch/flake that you actually climb through, this is a very obvious feature. The last two pitches are not recommended.

  1. 45m (20) Up the flake, step left and up to a ledge, traverse 3m left, up, then right through the obvious arch on the right. Now up to the belay.

  2. 40m (20) Slightly left to a tree bowl and climb the steep wall at the rear. Go to where the crack splits, left is Red Heat, right is 'Storm Front'. Up the right crack and over a block to belay on nuts.

  3. 40m (20) Follow up the crack.

  4. 40m (17) Up the easy crack above to big cave.

  5. 35m (20) Go left from the left side of the cave on a rising traverse left to a ledge.

  6. 40m (21) From the right edge of the ledge, go straight up to a bolt and nuts, then up and right (crux) to a tree belay.

  7. 30m (10) Continue easily to the top.

FA: Mark Wilson, Richard Watts late '80s, 2000

20Trad 270m
21 Aurora

As per 'Evolution' to tree belay end pitch 3.

Start: Start in the rainforest 30m left of the corner crack start to Siblings. The first pitch is grade 15 vegetated thrutch, -its not a taste of what's to come.

  1. 15m (15) Same as 'Evolution' pitch 1.

  2. 35m (22) Same as 'Evolution' pitch 2.

  3. 40m (21) Same as 'Evolution' pitch 3.

  4. 25m (18) Easily up slab past 'Evolution' and 'Scorpion' to small tree, past this to ring bolt then continue under overhang to double ring belay.

  5. 40m (24) 'Steep' but easy through overhang to thread, step right then up wall with big holds, rings and friends (3.5 essential in bombproof slot). Rest at small stance as the wall becomes slightly off vertical, crux moves past last 3 or 4 rings. DRB belay at stance.

  6. 30m (24) Good pitch, difficult to onsite. Awkward slab to stance below a short overhanging wall, pumpy and technical up the wall then hard moves to gain small ledge, bouldery moves to step left and get established on another short steep wall which leads to ledge. This is the big ledge where you belay for the last pitch of 'Old and Grey', 'Scorpion' & 'Storm Front'. DRB belay

  7. 30m (25) Great pitch, mostly rings, friends in final crack. 'Steep' slab leads to short steep wall with hard moves, then a short easy slab. Traverse on to steep wall above the overhang and very delicate climbing for several metres to a pocket, (crux). Fine climbing up wall to base of crack, crack and flake for several metres to small ledge. DRB belay.

  8. 20m (19) Easy but nice wall to top. Thread and ring bolt belay.

FA: M Wilson & J Clark, 2001

25Trad 240m
22 *** Evolution

Gobsmackingly good. Take a light rack of friends (#0.5 - #3) and wires and about 16 quickdraws (with plenty of long draws).

Start: Start in the rainforest 15m left of the corner crack start to Siblings. From the riverbed scramble up the broken blocks to the base of the wall proper. Belay from here. The climbing starts underneath the bush canopy, under a water-run/chimney/hole thing. The first pitch is grade 15 vegetated thrutch, its not a taste of what's to come.

  1. 15m (15) All trad. Move up a few moves under the hole thing, then step left onto a leftward sloping ramp, and trend up L for 5m. Pull over the bulge then traverse 5m back right to DBB on small grassy ledge.

  2. 30m (22) FH, over bulge onto small ledge (trad) and move R. Trickily up past 2 FHs to a fixed thread at 12m (new as of 2012). Up the slab past #2 cam and 2FHs, then trend easily L to DFH on comfy grassy ledge.

  3. 35m (21) Step R then up face and crack (2 FHs, trad, FH) to join a rightwards sloping ramp. Follow this 15m up and right until it steepens. Place a few bomber wires, then tricky moves to the right, then a bit necky up and back left to a vertical slot and tricky mantle to gain a small ledge. The former "belay tree" is now awful, rotten and wobbly, leaving just one small slot for cams (above your head behind the tree). Consider climbing 5m up the next pitch to get more gear in, to extend back down to your belay. (A bolted belay is needed here)

  4. 25m (23) The first of 3 amazing pitches. Step right (blue alien), then up the corner to great cams. Pull up right, to the line of 11 bolts and incredible moves up the steep face using a zillion pockets. Past the last bolt a tricky span R gains a short corner and DBB on top of the spike.

  5. 30m (22) Follow the bolts up the faint open corner and straight over a high bulge, to belay in the sublime luxury of the huge orange cave (lunch time!). 9 FHs, then a #2 cam, then a chain belay. A ripsnorter.

  6. 25m (24) Follow the bolts trending left out of the left side of the cave (the more rusty bolts heading up then R through steep ground are Pump Lust). Amazing sustained pumpy climbing on fantastic orange rock, mainly bolts with mid size wires and a 2-3 cam near the top. DBB.

  7. 45m (23 M1) Up and left past some bolts, pulling on the second to reach a jug. After the aid move, don't get suckered straight up to the tempting bolt 8-10m above (that's the 27 RHV). Instead trend up and left past a small tree on the arête. Go L around the arete to join a bridging corner (wires) for 10m, then a hideous dirt/scree scramble for about 15-20m. Keep going until you find a gumtree to belay off, the casuarinas (she-oaks) are totally unreliable.

FA: Andrew McAuley, Vicki O'Malley, Greg James., 1997

24Trad 270m
23 * Evolution Pitch 7 RHV

An alternative final pitch to 'Evolution'.

Start: Start as per 'Evolution' pitch 7.

FA: Lee Cossey, 2000

27Mixed 40m, 6
24 Pump Lust

Do a move or two as for 'Evolution' pitch 6, then trend R following the line of bolts up the left hand side of the big cave, eventually joining 'Jump Master' at the top of its first pitch.

Start: Start as for 'Evolution' pitch 6.

FA: George Feig late 90s, 2000

29Trad 25m
25 ** Jump Master

Start: Starts from the right side of the big cave.

  1. 20m (23) Up the right wall of the cave past five bolts and gear to a niche and traverse left past two more bolts up through a gap to finish at a DBB.

  2. 30m (26) Follow the waterline up through the steep orange rock above to a niche. Hard moves to gain the grey rock above.

FFA: Andrew Bull early 90s, 1990

FA: John Fantini early 90s, 1990

26Trad 50m
26 Scorpion

An old time epic.

  1. 35m (22) Same as Siblings of the Sun pitch 1.

  2. -m (19) Start as for 2nd pitch of 'Reason For Man' but instead of trending slightly right go straight up. Then trend left for the rest of this pitch.

  3. -m (17) Continue to trend left on natural gear to share the same tree belay with 'Evolution' and Red Heat.

  4. 50m (21) Up easily for a few metres to connect into a weakness at the start of the orange rock. Follow this junction up and left to find a groove and flake. Up these which provide some interesting moments, to gain the big block visible from the bottom of the gorge.

  5. 45m (21) Head right for 3m and weave your way through blankness. A friend break and then trend up and left to a break and belay.

  6. 45m (19) Move horizontally right to a nose and eventually get some runners in after the hard stuff is over. Continue upwards over a steep bulge past an old carrot bolt on good rock to finish at a sit down belay.

  7. 40m (10) Scramble to top.

FA: John Fantini, Dave Sargent, 1985

22Trad 220m
27 ** Reason For Man
  1. 35m (22) Same as Siblings of the Sun pitch 1.

  2. 45m (19) From slightly left of the chain belay climb the wall straight up to a ledge and tree belay.

  3. 30m (17) Up to the big ledge.

  4. 30m (17) More pleasant climbing to the cave belay.

  5. 45m (20) A serious pitch. Move right from the cave to a bolt. Now directly upwards to a ramp and some good wires. Continue up and rightwards in a groove and on some mediocre rock. Finish on a ledge.

  6. 45m (14) Step right and move around right above the overhang to another big ledge at 45m.

  7. 50m (22) Walk right along the ramp to a sling around a stalactite before launching onto steep ground above. Up ribs and cracks to a hard crank at 35m. More easily to top.

FA: John Fantini, Tony Barten, 1985

22Trad 280m
28 ** Flaming Galah

Excellent continuous climbing that pushes a direct line up the centre of the South Wall.

The first 4 pitches of this route makes for a straight forward sports climb that is easy to get off in 2 raps if climbing with double ropes. Sport bolted over 6 long days.

  1. (24) 25m Start as for ‘Andrews Arête’, hard start moves. (21 if you pull the first two bolts)

  2. (21) 40m Continue up following the Siblings bolts until a small corner with a sapling and 'Lucky' bolt hangers. Follow bolts up and right to a bolt belay in pod.

  3. (19) 30m Straight up the blunt arête to the green ledge, traverse right 5m to roomy belay with bolts.

  4. (24) 25m Great face climbing to a hanging belay.

  5. (26) 50m Up right on big holds to a thin punchy crux then continue up joining ‘Overture to the Sun’ briefly and a long runout on easy climbing to belay at the base of the orange wall to the right of the Siblings belay. Chain belay.

  6. (30) 30m Orange headwall. Climb the blunt arête with great holds and follow bolts to a semi hanging belay.

  7. (27) 30m Exposure at its best, continue up and pull through committing lip (crux) then up on good hold to finish at chain. Walk back to the car park up the hill.

FFA: Jan (Czech)

FA: Chris Warner, 2006

30Sport 230m
29 ** Overture to the Sun

Overture to the Sun ** 260m 22, 21, 23, 23, 24, 24, 27

(need a good description)

First two pitches as for Siblings of the Sun. From the second belay go directly up to join a hand crack, rather than trending right and up from this belay, which is Siblings. From here continue up the soaring line of bolts with increasing difficulty.

  1. 25m (21) Same as Siblings of the Sun pitch 1.

  2. 40m (21) Same as Siblings of the Sun pitch 2.

  3. -m (23)

  4. -m (23)

  5. -m (24)

  6. -m (24)

  7. -m (27)

FA: John Fantini late 90s, 2000

27Trad 75m
30 Andrew's Arête

An alternative way to get to the top of the spike and the first belay of Siblings of the Sun. Looks like great climbing. The route takes the sharp arête with one bolt 5m left of the corner crack of Siblings pitch 1.

FFA: Steve Monks early 90s, 1990

24Trad 35m
31 *** Siblings Of The Sun

An all time classic, the beginning of the new wave at Bungonia. The corner crack start is back down and behind the massive jumble of collapsed boulders that peeled away from the bottom of the 'South Wall' when dinosaurs ruled the Earth. 12 or 14 quickdraws, including some extenders. Mostly bolts, but take a single set of cams (#0.4-3 camalot) - doubles of 0.75, 1 and 2 for extra comfort - and wires.

  1. 35m (22) The corner, 3 bolts and friends. Belay chain on top of the pedestal.

  2. 40m (21) Clip a bolt and move directly up from the belay. Past a few more bolts before traversing a long way right to a DBB on a small ledge.

  3. 45m (23) Move 2m right, step up and clip a bolt, move up to another, and pull a tricky slab move. Follow the bolts plus some wires up to the belay seat.

  4. 35m (22) Move a metre right and clip a bolt in the bulge. Up to a tree/ledge, then up and left to a groove (friends). Traverse 5m left at the top to a DBB and a mostly hanging belay; this is a terrible belay stance considering that there is a big cave/ledge/orifice 5m R which is actually on the line of the route. Hopefully these old belay bolts will be replaced soon and moved 5m R into the comfy cave at the same time.

  5. 30m (21) Move 5m back right and bridge up the invaginated orifice (med cams). Step out (wires) and move up to a bolt. Keep heading up and a tad left. Take care on the unprotectable loosish orange rock for the easy last 10m up to the DBB at the base of the beautiful orange headwall.

  6. 35m (24) The business. Step left, clip a bolt and cruise up the heart of the amazing orange headwall. A host of wires and friends supplemented by 5 bolts in all. Mega classic and pumpy. DBB on ledge.

  7. 15m (26) 5 bolts to DBB. Madonna. Unfortunately this pitch has several chipped holds.

  8. 20m (18) Leftwards sloping ramp past 4-5 bolts, thread & small-med cams, to chains just back from the lip. Walk out.

FA: Tony Barten, Andrew Bull, Craig Kentwell, 1989

26Mixed 240m, 61
32 Siblings Variant pitch 2

(24/25) From the 1st belay at the top of the spike. Instead of heading up and right across the slabs, head straight right following the bolts through the overhang. Continue right on natural gear to the belay.

FA: Lee Cossey, 2000

24Trad 40m
33 ** The Penumbra Variant

An easier alternative to the 3rd pitch of Siblings of the Sun.

Start: From the start of the 3rd pitch of Siblings scramble right 20m to belay off the last tree.

  1. 25m (19) Wall climbing and jug hauling past 6 bolts to a chain.

  2. 20m (17) Up the corner past 5 bolts and some wires to the ledge.

FA: Craig Kentwell, Andrew Bull, Tony Barten, 1989

19Trad 45m
34 Medusa (project)

Not a pleasant route. Takes a line between 'Siblings Of The Sun' and 'Albino'. Start as for Siblings. All bolts, no gear or brackets required. Follow the Penumbra Variant from the top of Pitch 2 of Siblings. 'Medusa' starts from the tree belay between the two climbing pitches of the Penumbra Variant.

  1. 15m (18) Trend up and right from the tree belay, delicately up the slab to the base of the short wall. Up the wall exiting slightly left to belay on the ledge (down and right from the Green Ledge).

  2. 20m (24) Pull onto a ramp and follow it up and right. Follow bolts up the wall to a long move left to a good hold. Up again until the climbing eases at the base of a flake. Belay at the top of the flake.

  3. 50m (25) Up the wall. Details to be advised.

  4. 30m (24) From the belay head up gorgeous steep orange stone until a move right brings you onto a ramp. Care required, a lot of loose small stuff. Up the ramp for a few moves, then follow bolts right onto the wall and up shaley stuff until another big move right gives good holds. Belay on the edge of the abyss.

  5. 10m (10) Scramble past a couple of bolts to the top.

FA: Robyn Cleland, Vera Wong, 2000

25Trad 130m
35 *** Albino

A great climb. Plenty of traversing at the start means action for everyone. Chain belays at the end of each pitch.

Shares the first two pitches of Siblings of the Sun. Double ropes a must due to zig-zagging long pitches, plus a decent rack with doubles of cams in the hand/fist sizes. Second should be capable of onsighting 22, due to several sections of downclimbing!

Start: From the start of the 3rd pitch of Siblings scramble right for 20m to the last tree (same start as for the Penumbra Variant).

  1. 35m (22) Same as Siblings of the Sun pitch 1 up the steep layback corner.

  2. 40m (21) Same as Siblings of the Sun pitch 2. Straight up slab for 20m, then follow brown hangers directly right and down to belay on left edge of small ledge. Bolts only on this pitch.

  3. 30m (22) Ignore the plethora of bolts going up and traverse right along vegetated ledge, through thick bushes and out the other side. Ignore bolts going up again and traverse hard right along lip of roof (hidden bolt) then start rising traverse past fiddly trad and the occasional bolt to finish at hanging belay.

  4. 20m (22) Up from the chains through a bulge to a sloping ledge and belay. Move off belay feels solid 24+.

  5. 30m (24) Delicate and sustained face climbing. All bolts apart from a few small/medium cams in the first 10m.

  6. 50m (22) The mega pitch with a bit of everything! Up the technical and zigzagging slab then right along the giant detached flake. Up a corner trending left and up through a small roof past a few bolts to belay out right on ledge.

  7. 45m (22) Up the steep orange wall on bolts, then meander your way through grey rock and vegetation to the chains.

FA: Andrew Bull, Craig Kentwell, 1991

24Trad 240m
36 Gasoline Alley ??

In there somewhere.

37 ** Solar Flare

This obscure but apparently good route lies upstream of 'Albino' and is accessed by abseil from the top of the gorge. There is no pitch from the ground.

Start: The route starts from a cave/recess above the big overhangings at the bottom of the gorge. The top of the rappel is 2 bolts near a tree. 3 long rappels reaches the cave. The raps trend rightwards.

  1. 45m (22) From the cave head up over little weaknesses (sustained). This good pitch leads you to the third rap anchor.

  2. 10m (15) A short pitch on crappy rock.

  3. 50m (21) Head up through good steep rock above, finishing at the second rap anchor.

  4. 45m (18) A good pitch. Move diagonally right to gain a scoop that heads to the top on fine grey rock.

FA: John Fantini, Richard Watts, Keith Bell, 1987

22Trad 150m

1.2.4. Nosferatu Wall 2 routes in Area

All Trad

Long/Lat: 150.015460, -34.796053

Description:© (secretary)

This is the black slabby portion of the 'South Wall' to the right of the Siblings area, and left of the 'Phantom Menace' area. It's a real shame that most of this sector is inaccessible due to blank overhangs down low.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Nosferatu
  1. 30m (24) Up past three bolts to a hard move rightwards and up into the crack. Up to a double bolt belay.

  2. 50m (21) Up and left past bolts to a ledge. 'Superfluid' goes up and right from here, 'Nosferatu' up and left. Climb up the slabs on natural gear, with several long runouts. Belay left of the apex of the steep black wall.

  3. 40m (25) (25M1) Up past a sprinkling of bolts. Hard and runout. Natural belay. To abseil move 15m right to chains on 'Superfluid'.

FA: Mike Peck, Tony Barten Early 90s, 2000

25Trad 120m
2 * Superfluid
  1. 30m (24) Same as 'Nosferatu' pitch 1.

  2. 50m (22) Up and left past the bolts to a ledge. Up a flake crack for a few moves before trending slightly right up a slab. Follow the bolts over some bulges (crux) with friends also handy in the pockets. Belay at the chains in the orange cave at the base of the steep wall.

  3. 40m (24) Follow the bolts past some great holes, kneebars and no hands rests. A really good pitch. Belay at the chains.

FA: Julie Styles, Mike Peck, Ken Luck, Kieran Lawton, 1998

24Trad 120m

1.2.5. Phantom Menace Wall 25 routes in Sector

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.014352, -34.795816


This is the overhanging wall with some prominent stalactites first up on your right when you enter the gorge walking downstream. There is a big tree'd (Big Greenie) ledge at 30m height. Celestial Mechanics starts from the left end of this ledge. Phantom Menace, Sith Lord and Evil Empire start above and mid way along it. The easiest way onto Big Greenie is via Polenta Pumper (25) - becomes easier with a long stick and some french freeing. Routes are listed from right to left when facing the cliff.


Surprisingly, the walk in to here is very reasonable, and takes a little under 30 minutes at a moderate pace. Speedsters without knee problems could probably get here in 20 minutes. Walking back up the hill will probably take twice as long!

Descent Notes:

Most routes have bolted lower-off anchors suitable for a single 70m rope.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Auto Arrest

Ignore previous guides this is NOT The easiest access pitch to Big Greenie. Start: Start about 30m upstream of 'Polenta Pumper' - scramble up easy flowstone to small ledge covered in vines. Sketchy flowstone choss for 6m to reach crack, then up major corner to belay ledge. Not recommended until bolts added to start.

FA: Tony Barten, Mike Peck, 1986

20Trad 30m
2 Planet Earth

Amazing rock architecture. Also a way to get onto Big Greenie.

Start: Starts in the corner about 20m upstream of 'Polenta Pumper'.

  1. 20m (25) Up the corner past 3 bolts then left and up onto the slab. More slopes past another bolt lead into a groove (friends and wires) then up onto a sloping ledge. A ridiculous move out left past a final bolt then up to a chain belay.

  2. 35m (19) A great pitch on fantastic orange rock with heaps of threads. Up to a bolt on the slab above, then up and left to the base of the orange corner. Up this past 2 bolts. Belay on threads amongst the carcasses.

  3. 10m (22) (18/22) 'Steep'. Climb onto the right wall of the cave and up the bulges above, past many good threads. A cave offers sanctuary on the lip. From here step out right and up to belay chains. 2 raps to the ground.

FA: George Fieg, Mike Peck, John Stone, 1991

25Trad 65m
3 ** Sarah Fieg's Route

Just left of the corner. Water washed rock for a few bolts then left and up to anchors. Has been rebolted - new shiny FHs.

FA: Sarah Fieg, late 90s

24Sport 17m
4 White zombie

Starts half a metre left of Sarah Fieg's Route. Bouldery and direct up little prow. Shares anchor with previous route.

FA: George Fieg, late 90s

27Sport 17m
5 * Polenta Pumper

Very good, very pumpy. The original route on this wall. Start out of the sand pit and direct up square cut slopers past several rusty FHs and punch through rooflet past thread and bolt to anchors over lip. If climbing on Phantom Menace wall you need to continue on easy ground for 10m (two bolts) to Big Greenie ledge and bolt belay. It's 30m from this high anchor to the ground.

FA: Mike Peck, 1987

FFA: Mike Law-Smith, 1988

25Sport 30m
6 Open Project

Just left of PP. Bolted by George Fieg in the 90s, now an open project. Attempted by Lee Cossey - so probably quite hard!

Set by George Fieg

Sport Project
7 Fluidity

Just left of the open project. The shortest route in the gorge but mega burly.

FA: Andy Richardson, 2011

29Sport 4
8 ** Nails

The very appealing steep left-trending blunt arete just left of Fluidity. Looks great so we'll open the bidding at 2 stars. Higher or lower bids accepted! 30 the way Phil did it, but some better beta was later found.

FA: Phil Sage 2000s

29Sport 20m
9 Nails LHF (Open Project)

Start: Link 'Nails' into Ben's RHV Project.

Sport Project
10 Closed Project (Ben)

Start: The RHV of Ben's project.

Sport Project
11 Closed Project (Ben) 1

Start at ground level a few metres right of Lee's project.

Sport Project
12 Closed Project (Lee)

Start: Start at ground level, under the subtle left-facing "flake"-type feature.

Sport Project
13 Unfinished Project (Graham)

This is an unfinished line with 1 or 2 bolts and a fixed rope halfway up (it is believed that persons unknown untied it at the top and threw it off, making it harder to retrieve). The rope and top section of this line is visible in the first photo topo above.

Start: Start at ground level at the far left end of the steep wall, about 8-10m L of Lee's project.

Trad Project

The following routes start from Big Greenie, the vegetated ledge above Polenta Pumper. Climb that route to get to this ledge.

14 Wicket

Short access pitch to reach Jabba the Slut & Death Starred starting at rap anchors above Polenta Pumper on Big Greenie ledge. Old FH, sling around tufa and new FH through steep bit. An orange fixed line hangs over the lower part and then heads left via the start of The Force.

FFA: Neil Monteith, Matt Shultz & Lee Cujes, 2012

17Sport 10m, 3
15 Access Traverse

A fully bolted rising traverse with a fixed rope starting as for Wicket for one bolt then heading left along a series of ledges and slabby chimneys. This route is used to access the various belay stances for routes in the centre of Phantom Menace Wall. The rope in the upper half is old - treat with massive caution!

14Sport 30m

To access the next three routes you need to climb Wicket to small ledge with rap rings.

On the following routes please check the fixed hangers - if they are heavily rusted please do not climb the route. And let Neil know! The hangers are potentially from a bad batch of ClimbTech hangers.

16 ** Jabba the Slut

Right line of bolts off the ledge above Wicket. Flowstone corner and face to luscious ceiling and punchy pocketed finish. There is a single rap ring under the roof to aid cleaning the route.

FA: Neil Monteith, Lee Cujes, Matt, 2012

24Sport 22m
17 Jabba the Short

Jabba the Slut, stopping at the ringbolt under the roof. A good warm up if you get dragged up here on a 5 degree day.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

20Sport 15m, 7
18 ** Death Starred

Amazing limestone features. Left line off the ledge climbing the flowstone corner (take care with the stalactite) then climb left onto the prow on mega buckets and then up the steep headwall with spicey finish. Neil managed to drop a large rock on himself whilst bolting this - lucky it hit his body not his head.

FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Shultz, 2012

23Sport 23m

The following seven routes don't start right on Big Greenie, but a little higher. They start out someway across a pitch of easy traversing (which is bolted and usually has a fixed rope) slightly above Big Greenie. All routes require a 70m rope or rethreading on descent. Tie a knot in the end of your rope!

19 ** The Force

Belay from double bolt anchor 8m along the Access Traverse route, below the orange left facing chimney. Up chimney for a move (clip first bolt inside chimney with a long sling) then FHs out right and up crozzley grey slab then amazing overhung tufa groove and flowstone wall to final tricky bulge. Check FHs - if they are rusty please do not climb this route. And let Neil know!

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

22Sport 26m, 11
20 ** Degabar System

Great tufa pulling. Awkward belay on double bolts on orange slab at right end of fixed rope traverse. Traverse up and right across horizontal break and take the right of the two ring bolted lines. Big tufa feature for most of the way, then tricky orange face to finish. 60m rope WILL NOT reach the belay on lower-off.

FA: Andy Richardson, 2001

25Sport 33m
21 ** Attack of the Clones

Fantastic sustained climbing on tufa blobs and flowstone - reminiscent of Kalymnos. Shares the same first couple of bolts with DS then take the left of the two ringbolted routes. This is a full 30m pitch, with a 60m rope you will only JUST make it to the belay. WARNING - the clip-and-go lower-off anchor should NOT be trusted - its a dodgy chinese snap-and-die that may break at 100kg. Back it up by threading direct through the mallions.

25Sport 31m
22 ** Phantom Menace

More incredible limestone. Start as for the previous two routes for one bolt, then traverse left on FHs to groove - then up wall above. 60m rope will NOT reach belay - lower to fixed biners near cave then lower again.

FA: Andrew Bull, 1999

28Sport 35m
23 ** Sith Lord

Really Good.

FA: Rob LeBreton, 1999

27Sport 25m
24 Evil Empire

The left most line of bolts is a project, probably about 29.

FA: George Fieg, 2000

Sport Project
25 Celestial Mechanics

Start: Start from the left end of Big Greenie. Takes the corner and arête.

  1. 20m (21) From a stance on a slab cruise up the ramp to a bolt. Some slippery moves past this then up to another bolt. Up to the block and ledge with chains at the base of a corner.

  2. 20m (24 M1) (24M1) Up the corner past a couple of bolts to some thin bridging (crux) and wires. Continue up the steepening corner past bolts to an overhang. Pull around this on finger pockets to a double bolt belay.

  3. 25m (23 M1) (23M1) Up the sharp arête past bolts to a rest. Clip a bolt and then move up (crux) and right to easier climbing. Chain belay. Rap down.

FA: Mike Peck, Pete Mills, John Stone (var), 1990

24 A1Aid 65m

1.2.6. Efflux Crag 2 routes in Cliff

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.013278, -34.795693


A little wall tucked away near the bottom of the descent track into the gorge.


Park at William Mitchell carpark. Walk down the red track. About 50m before you reach the bottom of the gorge, the track turns right and you scramble down a few metres into the creek bed. (it is easy to mistakenly walk past this turn, continuing along the side of the gully to a good view and a dead end). Cross the creek bed and scramble onto the ledge on the opposite side (RHS as you walk down).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hooey

FA: Chris Warner, 2004

16Sport 18m
2 Brass Razoo

A good face climb on bolts.

FA: Chris Warner, 2004

23Sport 20m

1.2.7. Little Thai Wall 6 routes in Cliff

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.012632, -34.795449


This little wall is about 25m high and about 80m long. A great little warm up wall offering some of the easiest routes in the gorge. A great place to start to get the feel for limestone.


This little wall is immediately on the left when you get to the bottom of the red track into the slot canyon. 30 mins steep walking from the carpark.

Descent Notes:

All the routes have lower offs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jug-a-licious

The first route on the left just off the red track. Was looking like a nice easy line ground up bolting untill the rock turns to choss.

FFA: Ben Jenga., 2011

2 * A tufa to far

A nice tufa route in the middle of the wall. It has some hidden good holds.

FFA: Ben Jenga, 2011

22Sport 25m

The following routes are at the right-hand end of the wall on the lovely flowstone-covered wall with a small cave on the right side.

3 Project Clinton

Just left of Gilding The Lily. Unfinished sports climb up to lower-off. More bolts needed.

Sport Project 25m
4 ** Gilding the Lily

A good warm up on bolts with some tufa up high. Start: 50m upstream from the intersection of the red track and the bottom of the gorge. Depending on the level of water in the lagoon, and the state of the deposited silt and rocks, you might get your feet wet.

FA: Chris Warner, 2003

22Sport 25m, 9
5 Lame Duck

To the right of Gilding The Lily. Finishes just under the roof at half height.

FA: Chris Warner, 2003

20Sport 15m
6 Steep cave route.

The steep, very bouldery climb at the far end of the wall. Old Chris Warner project. Open

Sport 18m

1.2.8. Cooee Point 12 routes in Cliff

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.018627, -34.796947


Red Super Giant is currently the only route to start at the bottom of the gorge and finish at this lookout. There are three distinct walls with 1 and 2 pitch rap in routes in this area. The top of the cliff proper is the first, this is Cooee wall. The next wall behind (ie back towards the car park) is Siren wall. The top of Siren wall is the sloping ledge that makes the base of Creole Cruiser wall.


From the lookdown car park walk over to the hanging metal grill lookout. From here hop the fence to the L and follow a faint track into the bush, staying on the rim. After about 80m there is a faint ridge/headland (if you take a detour out onto it you can look back and see the lookout hanging out above a vertical cliff). Walk another 20m away from the lookout and you are at the top of the descent gully. Not far down the gully you will pick up the old zigzagging walking track, which goes steeply downhill for 150m to the awesomely airy Cooee Point lookout, with rusty old steel posts and heavy cable wiring.

Routes are described left to right facing out, which is the order you approach them.

Ken Luck's route finishes to your left, looking out. To reach the top of the other climbs from the Cooee Point lookout, head to the right facing out. Be bloody careful scrambling around on the scree amongst the flimsy she-oaks. About 15m from the lookout rail, and a little downhill, there is a cluster of three bolts (2RB + 1FH) on a small exposed patch of rock. A 35m rap from here will get you into the cave at the top of the 1st pitch of Continuum. Bring a rope protector and/or hammer to round off the sharp edges. A further 15m along the cliff edge is a large old dead gum on the edge of the cliff and more rap bolts. These are at the top of In The Realm Of The Senses. For The Fat Controller, use this same anchor but rap over a single directional bolt 5m further along the cliff edge, at the top of a small arete.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ken Luck's route

Ken Luck's route - three pitches, all natural, finishing at the lookout fence. Need details.

FA: Ken Luck et al, date unknown, 2000

2 ** The Comfort Zone

Rap into the 'Continuum' cave, and then a further rap down the orange wall to the right-hand belay. Up pumpy orange wall then through bulge to cave.

  1. 15m (26) 9 bolts to ledge.

  2. 25m (22) Same as 'Continuum' pitch 2.

FA: Lee Cossey (pitch 1) late 90s, 2000

26Sport 40m, 10
3 ** Continuum

Rap in from 3-bolt anchor 15m right (facing out from the cliff) of the lookout.

  1. 15m (25) 9 bolts straight up, finishing in small cave / overhang.

  2. 25m (22) 10 bolts. Traverses a long way right. Ends at the lookout.

FA: Justin Clarke (pitch 1). Justin Clarke, Lee Cossey (pitch 2) late 90s, 2000

25Sport 50m, 10
4 * In the Realm of the Senses

Up following the bolts.

Start: Look for the double ring bolt belay down from a dead eucalypt 30m right (facing out from the cliff) of the lookout. Rap down to a ledge and double ring bolt belay.

FA: Brogan Bunt, Tony Barten 90s, 1990

22Sport 25m
5 The Fat Controller

The top is down and right (facing out) of the top of 'In the Realm of the Senses'. Rap in from 'In the Realm of the Senses' anchor, but using a directional bolt on the nearby arete to get to double rings at the base.

Up a dirty loose crack on natural gear and then some nice face climbing (ring bolts).

FA: Mike Peck 90s, 1990

20Trad 25m

The following three climbs are on Siren Wall. This wall is directly behind the top of In the Realm of the Senses. It is possible to scramble around the top of the gully (about 20m) from the top of In the Realm of the Senses to the bottom of Siren. Alternatively rap in, first to the base of the Creole Cruiser Wall, then a further rap down Siren wall.

6 Siren

Up the face then continue right to the base of the arête. Up the arête to double rings. About 6 bolts.

Start: Starts from the top of the gully. Double rings at base.

23Sport 15m
7 Unknown

Start as for 'Siren', but up the left-hand line. Ring bolts & FHs to the same DRB as 'Siren'.

23Sport 15m
8 Unknown/unfinished 35m 26 plus DEATH

At the time of writing the ring bolts were NOT GLUED IN on this route.

Start: The route which starts lower down on the wall about 15m left of 'Siren'.

26 XTrad 35m

The following climbs are on Creole Cruiser Wall, which is the left-most, highest wall in the Cooee Point area. From the Cooee Point lookout walk 50m back uphill to a large rock at a zig in the path, then contour across to the top of the wall. Rap in to all the routes - either down your chosen line or down the sloping start ledge.

If you want to suss the lines before you rap in to them, you can get a bit of a look at this face from near the rap anchors above Continuum. From those anchors walk 15m uphill and away from Cooee Lookout and you'll see all the bolts on Siren Wall at the same height, with Creole Cruiser Wall partly visible above and beyond that.

9 * This is Hip

Rap down to the double bolt belay. Good climbing on pockets and jugs. The furthest right line of bolts (facing the cliff).

FA: Mike Peck, Wendy Stevenson, Phil Dunne, 1990

22Sport 15m
10 * Creole Cruiser

Up left past two bolts to a cave and big thread (120cm sling). Up to a rest in the next cave and then up past two more bolts to a double bolt belay.

Start: From the same belay as 'This is Hip'.

FA: Mike Peck, Laura Close, 1990

22Mixed 18m, 4
11 Unknown 25

The line with 9 bolts and a hard start. It is possible to avoid the start by traversing in from the right, in which case the route goes at about 23.

12 Unknown 27 plus unfinished route

The next route down and left. This line of bolts finishes through a blank overhanging grey arête which looks virtually impossible and hasn't been climbed. The bottom 20m is good in its own right.

Sport Project

1.2.9. Reflux Crag 6 routes in Cliff

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.016882, -34.797971


Single-pitch sport climbs, close to the car-park. A few good routes and easier access than most, although a little tricky to find the first time.


Park at Bungonia Lookdown carpark. Walk towards the lookout and hop over the fence to the left just before you get to it. Follow the rim of the gorge for 50m to a spur or headland. (If you walk out on the headland you can look back to the lookout). From the headland head diagonally downhill until you come to a single 5m high sport climb (still a project at time of writing) on a mini-arete. From here, follow the contour around until you reach Reflux Crag.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project

A short, steep arete next to the approach track.

Sport Project 6m
2 Reflux

FA: Simon Vaughan

15Sport 10m
3 ** Punchy

FA: Mike Law Smith

20Sport 12m
4 *** Sticky Fingers

Revamped as a sporty on brackets

FA: Mike Law Smith

24Sport 12m
5 * A Ranger deal 22Sport 12m
6 * Solar Fix

FA: Simon Vaughan

17Sport 15m

1.2.10. Adams Lookout surrounds 3 routes in Cliff

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.011366, -34.798653

Description:© (secretary)

There are a few climbs halfway between the main lookout and 'Adams Lookout', at the top of the distinctive spine-shaped ridge. Feel The Groove is a great climb and makes the area worth a visit. There are no climbs at Adam's Lookout itself.

Approach:© (secretary)

From the Adams Lookout carpark, take the green track east towards the main lookout. After 50m cross a small railway-sleeper wooden bridge, after which the track turns left. Continue uphill for anther 100m to an open area on the top of a small knoll, where the track does a sharp turn to the right.

(Alternatively, park in the large carpark just before the main lookout, and head along the green track towards Adam's Lookout to the open area on a knoll).

Scramble downhill through the scrub (towards the main gorge) for about 100m, sticking on the ridgeline. You should be near the top of this wee crag. To access the climbs scramble down the side of the ridge to the right (east).

History:© (secretary)

This area was visited back in the dark ages by the Sydney Climbing Club. Although details are not recorded, you will find marked starts for some of these climbs.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Unknown 1

The contrived line of bolts furthest left, just left of the arete.

Set by Corey Sawyer, 2001

20Sport 12m
2 Unknown 2

The right-hand line of ring bolts on the left arête leading to a double bolt belay.

Set by Corey Sawyer, 2001

FA: Corey Sawyer, 2001

22Sport 12m
3 * Feel the Groove

Step off the flake/ledge into a diagonal line leading to the left (nuts and wires). At the top of this power up through steep stuff past a bolt to the top.

FA: Dave Sargent, John Smart, 1985

23Trad 15m

There are several easy trad routes on the longer slabbier part of this cliff further right and round the point. These routes were put up in the dark ages, look about 30m long and in the grade 12 to 16 range. The rock looks solid. Some starts are marked.

1.2.11. Bungonia Bouldering 88 routes in Area

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.007373, -34.797812


Info coming soon! Gorge Main 27 routes in Sector

Long/Lat: 150.005460, -34.794322 North & South Walls 3 routes in Sector

Long/Lat: 150.017659, -34.796182 Upper Gorge 58 routes in Sector

Long/Lat: 149.997379, -34.804740

1.3. Nerriga 95 routes in Crag

Sport, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.136836, -35.088858

1.3.1. The Gym 4 routes in Area

All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Send it Jimmy 24Sport 12m
2 Boogie Chillin 26Sport 12m
3 I Must Be D 26Sport 12m
4 Leavin Tokyo 25Sport 12m

1.3.2. Meat Slab 6 routes in Area

All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Istanbull 21Sport 10m
2 T-Bone, Trotter and Shank 22Sport 20m
3 Great Ways With Steak and Chops 21Sport 20m
4 Chump Chops 23Sport 20m
5 unknown 22Sport 20m
6 Hot Chilli Beef 27Sport 20m

1.3.3. Mexico Wall 2 routes in Area

All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gringo 21Sport 8m
2 Wetback 18Sport 9m

1.3.4. Pussy Buttress 3 routes in Area

All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kitty Litter 19Sport 20m
2 *** Savage Kittens 21Sport 20m
3 Steakout 23Sport 8m

1.3.5. Vulture Wall 3 routes in Area

All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Circling Vultures 24Sport 22m
2 Desire for Dead Meat 26Sport 22m
3 First to the Kill 25Sport 25m

1.3.6. Dead Head 4 routes in Area

All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Monkey Land 23Sport 15m
2 Viva Contreros 20Sport 15m
3 3 Arseholes 20Sport 15m
4 Wrong Bet 23Sport 15m

1.3.7. Flintstone Slab 3 routes in Area

All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Barnie Rubble 18Sport 20m
2 Animal Appliances 20Sport 20m
3 Pebbles 20Sport 20m

1.3.8. Granny Crag 2 routes in Area

All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Spaniard on a Moped 26Sport 8m
2 B.B.R.I.P. 23Sport 8m

1.3.9. Wig & Pen Slab 6 routes in Area

Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Best Line At The Crag

The right-facing corner opposite Ding Dong, with a bonsai casuarina at half height.

FA: Enmoore Lin, 2014

16Trad 15m
2 Ding Dong The Pope is Dead 14Sport 10m
3 Zombie Bums of Uranus 15Sport 11m
4 * Cindys Rack

FA: Ken McKeon, 2005

17Sport 12m
5 * The Tool

FA: Ken McKeon, 2005

19Sport 13m
6 Kiandra Makes Me Fearless 19Trad 20m

1.3.10. Austin Powers Ledge 9 routes in Area

Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Cletus the Slack-Jawed Yokel

FA: Gavin Oliver

18Sport 20m
2 Mr. Creosote and the Fat Bastard do Dinner

FA: Dave Pitchford, Gary Ewart, 2003

15Trad 15m
3 Blubber Boy and the Adipose Kid throw down the Gauntlet

FA: Dave Pitchford, Gary Ewart, 2003

15Trad 15m
4 ** Shagadelic Fembots 22Sport 15m
5 ** Where's my Mojo

FA: Rick Carey, David Cameron

20Sport 15m
6 ** Welcome to my Evil Lair

FA: Dave Cameron, Rick Carey

19Sport 15m
7 * Frau Farbissina demands discipline 21Sport 15m
8 * Unknown 17Sport 17m
9 * Toby

Step across the void onto the wall, crank up the steep wall on crimpy pockets clipping a few carrots on the way.

FA: Richard Watts, Tara Sutherland

25Sport 8m

1.3.11. West Side 6 routes in Area

Mostly Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Off Ramp

Easily up ramp to stance, then up through bulging off-width. 4.5 or larger Camelots useful.

FA: Keith Bell, John Wilson

18Trad 16m
2 * Ones Mans Thumb

FA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2005

19Sport 10m
3 Mongoloid

6 U's to DUBB Up end of gully

FA: Ken McKeon, 2006

12Sport 12m, 6
4 project Sport Project 18m
5 Dyna Bolt of Death 19Sport 15m
6 Dust Brothers 20Sport 15m

1.3.12. Slab Gully 5 routes in Area

Sport and Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 a 17Sport 8m
2 b 17Sport 8m
3 c 17Sport 8m
4 d 17Sport 8m
5 Yellow 22 15Trad 8m

1.3.13. Oh Baby Buttress 13 routes in Area

All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Peanut Butter Crowbar 24Unknown 15m
2 Sadie the Scrubber 24Unknown 15m
3 Reptilian 22Unknown 15m
4 Chemical Warfare 23Unknown 15m
5 Silence is Loud 21Unknown 15m
6 Admit One 21Unknown 15m
7 Pleasantly Warm 20Unknown 15m
8 Oh Baby 22Unknown 15m
9 Show Us Your Plumage 22Unknown 15m
10 Pebble Dependant 25Unknown 15m
11 Transport of Delight 20Unknown 18m
12 Passion for the Possible 20Unknown 18m
13 Fear is a Mind Killer 20Unknown 18m

1.3.14. Late Shift Ledge 11 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.135063, -35.088643

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

FA: Ken McKeon, 2005

13Trad 8m
2 Nameless Epic

FA: Unknown

16Sport 8m, 3
3 * Savage Bliss

FA: Rod Wills, 2006

18Sport 10m
4 Holy Shit It's A Cat

FA: Ken McKeon, 2006

17Sport 10m, 3
5 * Ultra Thin For Improved Sensation

FA: Rod Wills, 2006

18Sport 10m
6 Bloke Man

FA: Ken McKeon, 2005

14Sport 9m, 3
7 TT

FA: Unknown

14Trad 9m
8 Ribbed For Her Pleasure

FA: Rod Wills, 2006

18Sport 10m
9 * Gifthorse

FA: V Wills, 2006

22Sport 13m
10 * Prophylaxis

FA: V Wills, 2006

23Sport 8m
11 Kissing Dogs

Uber Slab, 2 U bolts to DUBB. One for the kids.

FA: Ken McKeon, 2005

11Sport 8m

1.3.15. The Jumps 2 routes in Crag

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.143252, -35.026890


Germ Wall and Steel Wall are the first two on the left side. Steep white rock with ring bolts. Routes were bolted in 2009.


Coming from Braidwood in the south driving north on the Nerriga Road. Pass through the town of Nerriga, cross the river and after you drive up the hill passing the main Nerriga crag areas take the first dirt road on the left (proper road not a side track). Drive for about 7km until the road cuts up left before an obvious small rock band. Park and walk down the left creek line (West) for about 400m. There are walls on both sides, the first decent wall being on the RHS, continue along the RHS cliffs and after the first steep white cliff cross down and over the creek to the over side.


Discovered and developed by Chris Warner, with Zac Vertrees (so far). Germ Wall 1 route in Cliff

Long/Lat: 150.138261, -35.026053 Steel Wall 1 route in Cliff

1.3.16. Nerriga Bouldering 16 routes in Area

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.136332, -35.088831


Just starting to develop the area for bouldering. Anyone interested, please contact me: jackfolkes.blogspot.com.au

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tetris Left

Left of face and shield. Also down-climb.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

V1Boulder 5m
2 ** Tetrisize

Straight up the face. No arete.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

V3Boulder 6m
3 Tetriside

Right arete.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

V1Boulder 6m
4 Loosidity

Sit start the loose rail. Move up and left, mantel. Right arete is not in.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

V1Boulder 3m
5 Loosid

Sit start the loose rail. Move out right to arete and mantel.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

V1Boulder 3m
6 Potvalliance

Sit start on right hand arete. Hard first couple of moves to easy finish over left side of boulder.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

V3Boulder 3m
7 *** Hedonism

Project. High and crimpy. Looks about V8.

Boulder Project 6m
8 ** Calculate

Project. Trending left up the scoop. About V6.

Boulder Project 4m
9 Calculation

Right side of the scoop. Following the vague crack.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

V3Boulder 4m
10 S for Slab

Simple slab. Top out via tree.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

V1Boulder 3m
11 It Was Me

Crouch start on the large quartz crystal. Move right and up on pebbles to top out.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

V3Boulder 3m
12 ** Chloe

Sit start under the prow. Climb up via slopers to top out left.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

V5Boulder 3m
13 Indecision

Climb the vague slopey crack from a sit.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

V2Boulder 3m
14 Firestarter

Start under the roof on jug and move left and up. About V5/6.

Boulder Project
15 Black Powder

Start under the roof on jug and move right and up. About V6/7.

Boulder Project
16 Hawker

Lowball. Start in a press and up the short headwall.

FA: Jack Folkes, 2013

V1Boulder 2m

1.4. The Monastery 76 routes in Crag

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.254420, -34.675307


The Monastery is a compact collection of sandstone boulders and walls along the base of a small cliff beside the reclaimed site of the old Penrose rubbish dump. There is a lot of rock in the area and no doubt many more fantastic bouldering areas are awaiting discovery nearby.


The get here just get yourself to the town of Bundanoon (great for a morning coffee and breakfast before a day at the crag) and head towards the town of Penrose on Penrose Road. A couple of kilometres out of Bundanoon turn left onto Teudts Road. Just 400 metres down Teudts Road you will see a small dirt track turning off on your left. Turn in here and follow it along just past the old site of the rubbish dump (now a grass field just on your left.


It first saw climbers visit in the early 1990’s with Adam Herdman and Pat Butler nabbing a few of the classic roadside face climbs but then more recently saw extensive development by Chas Ruffles, Ian Phillips, Ryan Winn, the Zuchetto Brothers, Phil Staples and more.

1.4.1. Sector 1 12 routes in Sector


Long/Lat: 150.253970, -34.673866


Sector 1 of The Monastery is a collection of blocks just near the main road, where the cliff line begins. It holds some great problems including the fantastic, steep compression problem "Death Of The White Rabbit".


To Sector 1 turn left and follow the track back toward the main road with the grass field on your left and park in the clearing just before the locked gate leading back onto the main road.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ollie’s First Day Out

Sit start and out past the hole and up.

V3Boulder 3m
2 ** Death Of The White Rabbit

Sit start at the bottom of cave. Climb the big hanging feature to top out.

FA: Chas Ruffles

V5Boulder 5m
3 Biting Binky

Sit start and left through the roof then out to finish as for ‘Death Of The White Rabbit’.

V6Boulder 4m
4 Bulbous

Sit start on jugs and out the roof and around the bulge.

V4Boulder 3m
5 Gavin’s Route

Stand start and straight up.

6 Era Vulgaris

Stand start and straight up to a high finish.

7 Suck It Mr. Phillips

Stand start and straight up past the hole to a high finish.

8 Tears Of Fear

Stand start left of the tree and straight up to a high finish.

9 Paula Abdul

Stand start and straight up.

10 Ridge-Matic

Stand start and straight up.

11 Reagan

Stand start and straight up to a high finish.

12 Pinkies Ladder

Stand start and straight up to a high finish.


1.4.2. Sector 2 64 routes in Sector


Long/Lat: 150.254421, -34.675706


Sector 2 of The Monastery is a large collection of boulders laying just beneath the main cliff line. It has several classic hard problems including the incredible "Tufa Line".


For Sector 2, continue straight ahead a short way to a little pull off in the trees on your left, right in front of the first boulders.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tuna Can

Sit start and straight up.

2 Spanks

Sit start and straight up.

3 Double Fun

Stand start and over the bulge.

4 100 Percent

Sit start and up the arete to top out right.

5 Storm Caster

Stand start and straight up.

6 Stunt Driver

Stand start and straight up.

7 Scabby

Stand start and straight up.

8 Better Times

Stand start and straight up.

9 Family Holiday

Stand start and straight up.

10 Closer

Stand start and straight up.

11 Wildfire

Stand start and straight up.

12 Global Rover

Stand start and straight up.

13 Songs Of The Deaf

Stand start and up the arete.

14 Green Eggs

Stand start and straight up.

15 Ella’s Arete

Stand start and straight up the little arete.

16 Buckets Of Grapes

Sit start and up left to finish on the big ledge.

17 Increasingly Less

Sit start and up right to finish on the big ledge.

18 Popular Parts

Stand start and straight up. Very highball.

19 New Gadgets

Sit start and up along ramp to top out.

20 Gastronomy

Stand start and straight up.

21 Unappetizing

Stand start and straight up.

22 Camera Ban

Stand start and straight up.

23 Frozen

Sit start to 'Camera Ban'. Start on the good rail around the corner and link it up.

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, 2014

24 Fuzzy Image

Stand start and straight up.

25 Flow

Sit start out straight up.

26 Absolute Winner

Sit start out straight up.

27 Four Day Old Port

Sit start under roof and out then up to top out.

28 Stumpy’s Span

Sit start then up and right past crimps to top.

29 Work For No Pay

Sit start and straight up to top through the gap.

30 Pickled Footage

Sit start then up right to top out through gap.

31 ** Pearly Gates

Sit start and head left past big moves to the arete then around to jugs to finish.

FA: Chris Webb-Parsons, 2014

V11Boulder 5m
32 Sudden Stop

Sit start and straight up.

33 Flick Chicks

Sit start and straight up.

34 Recently Maximised

Sit start and traverse slopers left to top out.

35 Floor Work

Sit start and straight up.

36 Trend Setter

Sit start and up left of the prow

37 Above & Beyond

Stand start up right of the prow.

38 Synergy

Sit start and straight up.

39 Rewarding Oportunities

Stand start and straight up.

40 Corporate Disorder

Sit start and straight up.

41 Trail Snail

Sit start and straight up.

42 The Hangover

Stand start and straight up.

43 Blog Snob

Stand start and straight up.

44 Impact

Stand start and straight up.

45 Clutter Free

Stand start and straight up.

46 Small Events

Stand start and straight up.

47 Pick N Mix

Stand start and straight up.

48 Like Clockwork

Stand start and straight up.

49 Absolutely Kill

Stand start and up the arete scoop.

50 *** Tufa Line

Sit start on good pinches. Move up via tufa-esque pinches to top out.

FA: Phil Staples

V8Boulder 3m
51 *** Slap the Cactus

Extension to Tufa Line. Starting on the right side of the boulder, traverse left and into the start holds of Tufa Line.

FA: Chris Webb-Parsons, 2014

V11Boulder 5m
52 Cabinet Maker

Stand start and straight up.

53 Volunteer

Stand start and straight up.

54 Unlimited Power

Sit start and straight up the blunt arete.

55 Bad Chef

Stand start and straight up.

56 Black Pearl

Sit start at back of cave and out roof to top out.

57 Mail Box

Stand start and straight up.

58 Needles In The Hay

Sit start and straight up arete.

59 Bonsai

Stand start and straight up.

60 Cuban Fury

Sit start and up the arete.

61 Yoga Vibrations

Sit start and straight up.

62 Self Discovery

Sit start and straight up.

63 Worn & Torn

Sit start and along ramp right to top out.

64 Slopo Combo

Sit start and up ramp left to top out.


1.5. Wingello 176 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.252475, -34.710215

Unique Features And Strengths:

Wingello has a good variety of climbing combined with fairly easy access and camping which make for a fantastic weekend away. If a day trip is more to your liking, Wingello is only an hour down the freeway from Liverpool in South Western Sydney. So it is well within the 2 hour day trip limit.


The crag is located in a great location over looking beautiful bushland about 20 minutes out of Wingello. The best coffee in Wingello is served at the Wingello Village store, which is located just over the railway tracks in the down town metropolis. They also sell pies, bread and basic lunch supplies. They open early on weekdays, but 8am on Saturdays – closed on Sundays. The walls of Supa Fun Happy and La Paz have some fantastic climbing with amazing almost Grampians like sandstone. Supa Fun Happy is a good wall to start at with a good mix of grades.

Access Issues:

Warning! Recently (March 2013) National Parks have erected a locked gate 200m from the fire fighters memorial and several very large boulders placed on the road at the entrance of the memorial. Keep in mind, if you park at the gate there is every chance that another climbing party could park you in resulting in a long stay if you return to your car and don't know where they're climbing.

From Sydney: Wingello is about 1 hour from the M7/M5 intersection and the crag itself is about 20 minutes out of Wingello (depending on your car). Wingello is best reached (from Sydney) by busting straight down the Hume Hwy to the turn off just after the Paddy’s River bridge. You can also go through Bundanoon but its probably a bit slower. From Macca’s on the Freeway its 11.5km to the Wingello turn off, and another 8km from there to the Wingello Railway Crossing. Reset your speedo on the railway line or at the shop .

From Canberra:

Reset Speedo at NSW Border on Federal Highway. The BP at Marulan is 110kms or 1hr drive. Wingello turn off is 124.7km or 1hr 10 mins. The railway crossing at Wingello is 131.6km or 1 hr 15mins.


Detailed Directions from Wingello

  1. (0.0km) - Cross the railway track and turn right. Stop at General Store for supplies or lunch. Grab a coffee and a pie.

  2. (0.1km)- Take 1st LEFT onto Forest Road.

  3. (2.8km)- Continue along into Wingello State Forest,, past the state forest sign.

  4. (4.2km)- Turn RIGHT into Running Creek Road at campground ie. The grassy area between the tall trees

  5. (4.4km)- Turn LEFT about 100m later into Gulp Road

  6. (4.8km)- Veer leftish onto smaller looking road (its still Gulp Road) at first intersection

  7. (5.5km)- Veer right at next ‘V’ intersection

  8. (8.6km)- Take the LEFT most track at the clearing with the big tree. There is a sign "Morton National Park" at this point. The track gets a little rough from here but is ok for 2wd with a little care. Please ensure you get someone to check your vehicles ground clearance when going over the sharp rises.

  9. (10.9km)- Arrive at a fenced carpark with large gate at the northern end. Park here, grab your gear and walk through the gate to the fireman’s memorial.

  10. Take the LEFT fire trail down the very steep hill.

  11. Eastern Access: After approximately 200m down the hill is a track on the right, this track is to access the cliff from the eastern end. Follow this track for 150m till a small cairn marks the track decent down on the left, follow over a some rock drops and down to a gully.

  12. Western Access: (Super Fun Happy Wall, etc) Continue straight down hill to a large flat rock platform. (Tape used to marks most of the trail but if in doubt just follow the cliff line until you come across the access gully). A small cairn marks the track on the right of the platform. Follow down for 100m till you reach some fixed ropes and rungs. The walk in to this access gully takes approx 20 mins from the car.

1.5.1. Gulp Road 156 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.248700, -34.707203 Orange Tower (and environs) 4 routes in Crag
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.253736, -34.706540 Effugio (Escape) Wall 8 routes in Crag
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.252622, -34.706273

Description:© (rodw)

20m high wall faces to slabs. Get's sun in the morning shade in the arvo.

Approach:© (rodw)

100m left for Noli Ne Tangere wall, past big cave. Up gully on top level. Noli Ne Tangere Wall 13 routes in Crag
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.252128, -34.706125

Description:© (bundybear)

Mainly slabby wall at the base of the access gully.

Approach:© (bundybear)

Access these climbs by taking the northern track. At end of 'road' Follow the track marked with cairns to access gully. Follow this down easily to bottom of cliff and continue on for 30m or so. The first climbs start here, the rest are around the corner. La Paz 15 routes in Crag
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.251208, -34.706059

Description:© (bundybear)

A wall for the hard dudes. There are more projects then climbs on this wall, but slowly they are being ticked off. 'Monks Lunch' and White Robe are the must do's on this wall.

Approach:© (bundybear)

The big white/orange wall under the descent gully. Walk down the main descent gully (following cairns) and turn left (facing out). San Pedro Wall 13 routes in Crag
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.249988, -34.705839

Description:© (bundybear)

Slabby Orange wall capped by big roof. A great wall with the main section having a variety of great moderate routes.

Approach:© (bundybear)

To get to the next wall walk down through the cave and up the other side. Follow cliff to a

ramp up to orange slab. Routes are described left to right. To access 'Chacaltaya' climb up small

gully to get to terrace. Rave Cave 11 routes in Crag
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.248344, -34.705559

Description:© (bundybear)

The big white and orange cave. Sweet steep stuff on bomber rock. Stays dry in all conditions.

Approach:© (bundybear)

The site is snuggled away near the edge of the Shoalhaven Gorge and the Morton National Park, in cosy and sheltered forest. The prevailing westerlies

go over the top only impacting the forest canopy.

UDecor though may be a little over the top. With 4 artists contributing to this event along with cosMICKS laser show and Andys, Petes and Andreas(diALMans) lighting, be prepared to be dazzled senselesss. And it is full moon on the monday morning.

We are going all out to make this one a magical affair with music and

mother nature. 2 long nights to go hard and get really f%%ked up for 2 days of pure bliss. Be prepared for sustained mayhem for the 1st 24 hours on the main stage before we shift the 2nd night into darkness and obivion. Not so hard as the 1st night, but if theres any evil lurking in ya soul, watch out! It will be rinsed thoroughly and u will be hung out to dry in the morning heavenly fun madness. Nubigena Wall 10 routes in Crag
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.247137, -34.705592

Description:© (bundybear)

A nice 10-15m wall up on a ledge, which continues around the corner past a cave.

Approach:© (bundybear)

As for 'Supa Fun Happy' area but turn right (facing out), wonder along the path for about 50m until you see a platfrom. The climbs start up here. Candy Deck 8 routes in Crag
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.245832, -34.706120

Description:© (bundybear)

A great spot to do a few "lines".

Approach:© (bundybear)

The wall just left of the SFH area. Supa Fun Happy 32 routes in Crag
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.245557, -34.706397

Description:© (bundybear)

A fantastic tall wall on orange sandstone. The climbs here are nice and long and slightly overhanging, they stay dry in the rain.

Approach:© (bundybear)

Access this sector by parking at Car Park 2. Park on the big rock platform. Locate Rock Cairn and and follow the path here (marked with pink tape) to the access gully. Scramble down here on the steel rungs and head left (facing out) past the big cave of choss and onto a large obvious orange wall. Big Poo Environs 20 routes in Crag
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.245385, -34.707578


Walk beyond SFH for two minutes passing a large stalagpoo

Approach:© (bundybear)

Continue past SPH wall, under big cave past the "Big Poo" feature. The first climbs are about 30m past this...or if starting day here, take western access gully route and walk back towards SFH...its about 100m from base of gully. The Slabs 9 routes in Crag
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.245571, -34.708826

Description:© (rodw)

Left side very slabby getting steeper the furthur you move right.

Approach:© (rodw)

Continue past cave about 100m past the last climb at 'Big Poo Environs'. Alternatively you can walk in down west access gully which pops out right at start of 'The Slabs'. White Gold 1 route in Crag
All Trad

Long/Lat: 150.244430, -34.709188

Description:© (bundybear)

White golden wall sprinkled with fluffy pillows.

Approach:© (bundybear)

Next wall along from 'The Slabs'. Obvious white wall past the corner. Quickest access is down Western gully track. La Sancta Wall 12 routes in Crag
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.242617, -34.709135

Description:© (rodw)

20m high slabby wall.

Approach:© (rodw)

Quickest access to to take track to western access gully and walk along base of cliff from there.

1.5.2. The Lost Valley 13 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.233843, -34.703500

Description:© (rodw)

Another area in the 'Wingello' area under development. See map for directions, there is plenty of scope for hard rout at Section 8.

Section 8 has several steep walls on excellent rock with huge pontential.

Walk in is about 15mins to C-section and 20mins to Section 8. Doesnt get hit as bad from sun as main wingello crag. The C-Section 10 routes in Crag
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.233698, -34.703888 Section 8 3 routes in Crag
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.232824, -34.702846

Description:© (rodw)

Large section on the other side of the river, mostly steep climbing with a few grey slabs thrown in for lesser mortals.

1.5.3. Frosty Hollow 7 routes in Crag

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.264490, -34.712418


Its secret Crack Wall 1 route in Cliff
Summary: Dudes wall 1 route in Cliff
Summary: Red Wall 1 route in Cliff
Summary: Descent gully Wall 2 routes in Cliff

Long/Lat: 150.263487, -34.712795 Sports wall 2 routes in Cliff
Summary: Grey slab 0 routes in Cliff

1.6. Tallong 14 routes in Crag

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.095922, -34.748681

1.6.1. Badgerys Lookout 14 routes in Area


Long/Lat: 150.102547, -34.772520

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Intimidator 18Unknown 10m
2 Time Out 10Unknown 8m
3 Date Ace

FA: G. Evans/S. Flanagan, 2004

7Unknown 8m
4 Ring Rise, Ring Set 18Unknown 11m
5 Twins 16Unknown 12m
6 No Time

Wide corner 14m right of Twins

6Unknown 17m
7 Time In 10Unknown 15m
8 Candy Man 16Unknown 18m
9 War's End 16Unknown 20m
10 Cart-wheeling to the Edge of Infinity 18Unknown 20m
11 Gravity 15Unknown 20m
12 Excalibur 22Unknown 20m
13 Wrecked Car Crack

See Rock No.18 New Climbs.

17Unknown 20m
14 Fumblefest

Dogs-leg crack on wall below Twins.

FA: S. Flanagan/A. Hall/G. Evans

9Unknown 9m

1.7. The Chopping Block 12 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.227750, -34.554034


Small out crop in Belangalo Forest. Nice featured rock, potential for lots more routes scattered in the gorges around the area.

1.7.1. The Chopping Block 12 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Outcrop of rock in the Belanglo State Forest. Good long route on OK rock and small snappy boulderss with face climbing. Routes are described from the far right side of the crag back to the descent path.


Located just outside of Berrima. Exit the Hume Highway at the Belanglo sign. (Cross the highway if coming from Sydney, if you hit Sutton Forrest McDonalds you have gone to far.) Drive past the Gordon VC rest area and onto the good dirt track. (Belanglo Road.) Contine through Forest for a cople of KMs. Once you have passed Dailys Road rest area on the right take the second fire trail on the left. If you reach the Cherry Tree Road and the horse farm you have gone one road to far.

Drive down the fire trail, straight across the first junction and the second juction (Dogleg and a bit bumpy.) Join Cherry Tree Firebreak and wind down this for 5 minutes until you reach the turning circle at the end.

Park here and follow the path and cairns down hill for 2 minues until you reach the cliff. Approach through boulders to the right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bone Machine

Step off the large boulder (or off the ground if you have fingers of steal). Balance up the areve and finish at shared anchors. Short. First route on the small boulder at the bottom of the descent gully

FA: Matt Tranter, 2011

17Sport 8m, 5
2 John Doe

Snappy bottom , up two small ledges to the Gritstone finish. Much harder if you stay out of the crack First route on The Boulder.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2011

15Sport 9m, 4
3 Hitching a Ride

One hard move over the lip and it is all over. Bring those large sea gull bashers. Trad crack at the far left end of the Block, next to the descent path.

FA: Stephan Pervanoglu, 2011

15Trad 10m
4 Shallow Grave

1m right of the trad crack.Pull over the lip and trend left. The second block.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2011

17Sport 11m, 5
5 Burried in a Crack.

As the name suggests, get deep in that crack. Wobble without much protection using both walls and exit to the bolts at the top of the crag. The second trad crack on this face.

FA: Stephan Pervanoglu, 2000

15Trad 10m
6 A Murder of Crows

Off balance, mean and thugish. use anything you like, twist and turn, pull through the bands, finish at the right hand anchors. Start 1 metre right of Shallow Grave.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2011

18Sport 10m, 6
7 * The Hatchet

Hard pull from a three finger slot. Up the features to the large ledge. Bouldery and very balancy finish. The last line of bolts on this side of the block.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2011

22Sport 12m, 6
8 ** The Danse Macabre

Hard pull off the big jugs, trend left to a large rest ledge. Two cruxes follow, join the finger pockets and stretch as tall as possible. Shared start with Dodging Bullets.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2011

22Sport 12m, 7
9 * Dodging Bullets

Nice heaving on big holds to balancy moves to gain stance then some trickiness to triple bolt anchors. Under cut start left hand side of wall facing the gorge

FA: Simon Vaughan

21Sport 12m
10 ** Close to the Bone

Heave up jug start then balancy and surprisingly powerful 4 move traverse, then straight up Start as for Dodging Bullets then move right Steep and then balancy climbing on great rock, firction is superb from Autumn onwards

FA: Simon Vaughan

23Sport 12m
11 * One Fatal Blow

Up corner with interest to an airy finish on the headwall In the corner around to the right of the main wall as you face the cliff The corner is hard and 3D to get up and the headwall is steeper than you think

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2011

20Sport 12m, 6
12 Project Matt T

Share the start with the previous climb. Still needs one more bolt to go directly to the lower offs. Going to be really hard as all the holds run out.

Start: 2 metres further right

Sport Sector 1 0 routes in Cliff

2 metres right as you look at the crag. Mix of sport and trad.

1.7.2. First sector 0 routes in Cliff


2 metres further right facing the crag. Banded on each side by trad.

1.7.3. Main face (second sector) 0 routes in Cliff


Front face of the block, steep pulling on great rock.

1.8. Binalong 277 routes in Region

Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.621686, -34.672601


A nearby bouldering area is about all you're likely to find here, but there's some possibility of climbing nearby, particularly a cliff on private property that looks to be ~15 metres high.

1.8.1. Radar Range 277 routes in Crag

Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.583371, -34.636955

Unique Features And Strengths:

Granite, with pockets, that's often overhung! And quite tall to boot. Lots of highballs.


A lovely hill of boulders capped by a large electricity tower and radar array. The rock type is predominately granite (or volcanic tuff masquerading as granite) but seems to be intermixed with rhyolite of some sort, reaching heights of up to around 10 metres (one slabby cliff section in a valley), with many overhung/undercut problems (very unusual for granite) due to the orientation of the rock against the hill. While sometimes contrived, sit-starts on overhung rock are very possible on many of the problems. There are highballs - feel free to top-rope them, but do not bolt them! The rock varies greatly in quality, from ultra-featured and very hard on the skin to smoother and even, in some cases, pocketed rather than flaky. Be aware that rock on some problems will be friable. It's very difficult to clean the amount of rock in this area and the moss is rampant on one side of the hill. All climbs top out unless otherwise stated.

There are no closed projects here. You may wish to stay off a climb that a friend is trying.

Lastly, a word on grades: they're likely to be wrong one way or another. Feel free to contribute your own views and/or change the grades if you feel strongly about them. You will note that some climbs have a range of grades assigned, which indicates either a climb on the tipping point of two grades or in some cases a number of variants that can make a climb easier or harder. Consensus and personal grades are expected, and climbs will always feel harder or easier depending on style, preference, strength, technique and experience.

Access Issues:

This crag is on private property owned by the Harden Council. The Council has been approached and has advised that anyone entering this area does so completely at their own risk - you break it, you're on your own. There are a number of land users, including people who walk and ride up the hill, and nearby farming land as well as the Air Services Australia owned radar at the top of the hill.

Please be sensitive to potential issues and don't make noise that's going to arouse interest (you will be heard for a long distance). Don't expect to always be alone. Please note the ethics - they are there for good reasons and it's all about keeping this crag open, not styles of climbing.

Do not approach the radar array please. For any reason. Be sure to close the gate. Every time. Don't expect someone to close it behind you, you may let some cattle in or out in the meanwhile. Please stay away from the very obviously fenced farmer's land. There's enough boulders to climb without venturing over there.


The area is a quick 2-3 minute drive from Binalong, heading out the Harden side of the town. There are two parking options:

  1. Continue on for 1.8kms out of the town until you see a right turn t-intersection onto dirt road - Bobbara Road. Continue along the dirt road until you get to the gate and head from there up the hill. You can park at several spots along the road. The boulders are a matter of metres from parking.

  2. Drive on a bit further along Burley Griffin Way and the main road splits off into an old, disused road right below the hill. The boulders are then 15 minutes from the car, uphill.

The hill itself can be quite steep at spots, with quite a lot of potholes. Bobbara road is occasionally quite pitted as well, but generally no problems with a 2WD.

Where To Stay:

You could stay at the nearby hotel in Binalong.


NO BOLTING AT ALL - not even for setting up top ropes or cleaning, thanks. Use some gear or sling a nearby boulder.

NO CHIPPING OR COMFORTISING - there are WAY MORE than enough problems here! However, please do make the effort to clean off flakes that are likely to go, and moss.

KEEP THE BOULDERS CLEAN - this means removing tick marks and cleaning off excess chalk if need be. Vinegar is great for removing chalk and the granite won't be affected if you need to give something a scrub.

Finally, please follow the naming conventions. Climbs have been named in a satirical fashion. If you make a first ascent - and there's every likelihood you will, given the massive boulder field - then go ahead and have a go at something that amuses or annoys you. Do not number your climb. Give it a frickin' name. Feel free to explain what the name means in the description.

Variants and eliminates welcome. It is bouldering, after all.


While it is difficult to know whether any area has been climbed at before, the first concerted efforts towards development were made after David Nott identified the area in late 2011. After destroying parts of his shoulder he returned with friends in 2012 to try and make a dent in the endless boulder field... The Tombstones 20 routes in Sector
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.591244, -34.643491


Area dominated by some 6-7 metre high tombstone-looking boulders, with a few terrifying and lovely highballs. Front and Sector 9 routes in Sector
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.586622, -34.641911


The main sector, right in front of the parking area / gate.


15 minutes straight uphill. Where the boulders start is where the sector starts.


Developed by David Nott, Ben Davies and Constantine Carluen. The Lowlands 64 routes in Sector
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.595068, -34.643806


Below the hill proper is a low-lying area with yet more boulders (surprise!). Most of the boulders here are quite mossy and may need a clean up to be sent. The jewel of the crown is a small sub-area with an 8 metre boulder that has a viciously overhung/undercut section, with another boulder nearby that would top the 6 metre mark. The area is described roughly running down the ridge and then left to right looking up towards the crown of the lower crest.

The dividing line between this and the 'Tombstone Ridge' is a gully lying between the smaller and larger hill, with a broken down fence.


Right of the Tombstones looking from the first parking area, otherwise if you're coming from the second parking area head up and over the hill or down the hill from the first flat part of the road a few hundred metres away from the radar array.

Descent Notes:

It is possible to walk off the back of the boulder containing 'Limpy McCrippleton', if you're happy to climb the 8 metres to get there. Radar Highlands 70 routes in Sector
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.589580, -34.641323


The area near to the radar array itself. This sector comprises the high parts of the hill to the left of the Tombstones when you look up the hill from the base. As you head north, it's everything before the broken fence which looks electrified but is broken in many places.


If you park at the top you are metres away from some established climbs, downhill. Deadies Sector 34 routes in Sector
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.589519, -34.641641


This is a sector just like the Tombstones. Where boulders in other parts of the hill have scary and diagonal landings, less clustering, this is an area with a high concentration of good and some very hard lines, not to mention the occasional flat landing!!


This is downhill from the radar, almost directly. You'll know when you're there when you find 3 boulders in a nice line, with the majestic 8-9 metre boulder in the metre inviting the brave to try their luck. Tombstone Ridge 48 routes in Sector
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.592430, -34.642734


The ridge heading upwards towards the road from the Tombstones proper.


Pretty much walk down the most grassy (and easy) slope you can find from about midway up the hill. The Other Side 26 routes in Sector
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.592200, -34.640188


Across the road from Tombstone Ridge/the Highlands. A scattering of slightly smaller boulders, mostly warmups but a few harder things to do.


Park halfway up and head to the boulders on your right as you look up the hill. Valley of Slabs 6 routes in Sector
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.587210, -34.639421


And lo, even though I walk through the valley in the shadow of slabs... I shall not fear, nor shall I bring a rope to sustain my efforts.


From the top of the hill head north until you see a slumped valley most likely caused by a land slip. The Dross 0 routes in Sector

Comprises the less-than-amazing boulders not covered in the rest of the areas, pretty much everything over the sunny side of the hill and everything west of the Valley of Slabs. Don't be too fooled by the name though, there may be some gems to find still.


Head past the radar itself and either down the hill to try and find something worthwhile to climb or past the slumped valley of slabs.

1.8.2. The Cliff 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

Rhyolite climbing, with a lovely lake behind to take a dip in. But... It's a quarry.


Yeah, but really, don't swim in the lake unless you want to die. A set of cliffs really, spanning two sides of an old quarry (that's your first clue to quality), with the lovely added ambience of a crashed burnt out car at the bottom to add to the scenery. Enough rock to take a few lines, though unfortunately one side is almost constantly in the shade and has more moss than anyone may have time to remove it! If you want a quick run up a few lines of dubious quality after sampling the "stellar" bouldering nearby, then this is the place.

Access Issues:

Try and keep your visits discreet please. 1080 poison is used nearby. Try not to ingest plants that have been poisoned, it will make you sick and bodies so ruin the ambience.


You can park right in front of the quarry, through a gate marked with a sign about 1080 poison. Whatever you do, don't try and access the cliff from the top unless you're on a rope, it's dirt all the way to the edge.

Where To Stay:

Heck, why not hole up at the nearby hotel in Binalong - sure to be a great sleep! You can grab some eats from the Black Swan, which also provides home-style pies.


Bolts must be camouflaged please.


As with any patch of rock, it's hard to say whether it's been visited before. Certainly efforts towards development haven't been undertaken previously, which is amazing given the obvious quality of the climbing.

1.9. Mt Alexandra 129 routes in Crag

Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.455956, -34.442432


A great crag in Mittagong, an hour and twenty minutes drive from Sydney and a good change from Nowra. Climbs are mostly sports with the odd trad line thrown in. Faces north west so can get a bit hot during summer, but because of the altitude tends to stay cooler than Nowra.

Approach:© (bundybear)

To get to Mt. Alexandra from Sydney follow the Hume 'Highway' until it is possible to turn off into Mittagong.

Follow the road into Mittagong. Once you pass the Information Center on your L take the next R just past the petrol station. Take the next L then turn R into 'Victoria' St. Follow this as it climbs steeply up until its end in a dirt carpark, park here. Walk towards the rock cutting past the obvious overhanging bouldering area on your R (Sico wall) turn L down hill and pass another bouldering area (Garth's gallery) turn downhill again and follow the track to the base of the cliffs.

1.9.1. The First Cave 20 routes in Cliff

All Sport

For a long time this sported only one route - Los Hermanos de la Denitente. Then this cave was discovered by Graeme Hill and Mark Woodard and several stiff sporty routes in the low to mid 20s where added. More recently, Simon Vaughan and Gavin Murray have added a couple more routes. Los Hermanos de la Denitente and Biafra can be attempted in the pouring rain.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Snuffs Enuff

The first route you come to. Tricky start then nice moves thru bulge without using the cave. Then a walk to the anchors.

FA: Simon Vaughan, L. Robinson, 2001

19Sport 12m
2 Dancing with Deborah

Looks OK, but everyone says its crap. Get on it, and judge for yourself. Hard to clean, best to get someone to 2nd it.

Start: Start: 2m left of SE

23Sport 12m
3 * Last Stand

Clip 1st bolt of DOANCS, surmount the bulge,move right to mini arete, clip bolt then move into litte closed corner then up through steepness to anchors. As for 'Death Of A New Car Salesman' Bouldery crux around the mini arete to steep climbing on pockets and jugs

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2011

22Sport 12m, 5
4 Death of a New Car Salesman

A nice line, a bit tricky to clip the 2nd bolt. Up past 5 RBs to U anchor lower off. Stiff at 20 (could be 21), but guess who bolted it ?

Start: Start: Behind Tree

FA: Mark Woodard, 1997

20Sport 10m
5 * Progress Comes to Shitsville

Hard at the grade, but nevertheless another fantastic offering by Mr Woodward. Left of DoaNCS, below crack. Up to crack (crux) then

up and right to jug. Out roof on jugs to glory. 3 RBs

(2nd is hard to clip), clip double RB anchor on lip then

continue up and right to lower off as for DoaNCS.

Sustained !

FA: Mark Woodard, 1998

22Sport 10m
6 ** Shot of Spirit

Straight up with difficulty down low then fly through the super roof

Set by Mark Farrell

FFA: Thomas Farrell

FA: Thomas Farrell, 2013

28Sport 12m
7 * Electric Gut Stick Gobblers Extension / Party Hat

Excellent sustained route with a technical start and a pumpy steep finish. Climb Electric Gut Stick Gobblers past 4 RBs to horizontal jug under roof, then out right on reachy mega pockets through roof to final move left to big plate and anchor. Watch your butt on the last move, if you fall off you land on the nearby tree!

FA: Andy (who?), 2006

25Sport 15m, 6
8 * Electric Gut Stick Gobblers

Graeme reckons it 22, but the locals reckon its aleast 24. Start: Left of PCtS, below round feature.

Up into closed corner and up. Move left and out to double RB on LHdlD.

FA: Graeme Hill, 1998

24Sport 10m
9 *** Los Hermanos de la Denitente

The Crag Classic !! Solid and sustained wall climbing on good holds. Stand up on tree stump, and power all the way thru to roof. Shake out here and show off with a french blow - punch the roof and into the cave, then move up right wards to clip the anchors.

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

23Sport 10m
10 ** Los Hermanos de la Denitente Extension

Clip one of the double rings of LHDLD as a BR and pump right to the anchors. If you clip a long draw at the anchors or stand in the tree you haven't done it

FA: Graeme Hill, 1998

24Sport 15m
11 Top Hat / Top Hat (Biafra Extention)

From the anchors on 'Biafra', keep on truckin' past 2 more RBs thru the roof to finish on big jugs and lower offs.

FA: Andy, 2006

26Sport 16m
12 *** Biafra

Next to trees near left edge of cave. Use your squiddy (or stick) to clip first RB, then bouldery, powerful moves to a good rest at 3rd RB. Hard moves to 4th RB then EZ steep territory to double RB lower off. 6 RBs in total.

FA: Cameron Breeze, 1999

FA: Cameron Breeze, 1999

26Sport 12m
13 * Bruised Poonarnee

Start between B an G. Trick start then up flake to break. Then as per G to anchors.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2008

21Sport 14m
14 Jello

As for G, but traverse right after 4th RB on G past a RB and clip the last RB on B, then upto anchors. Good way to get the gear on 'Biafra'.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2006

21Sport 14m
15 * Galvanise

Start 3m left of B. Nice route or good warmup for the harder stuff in the cave. Stays dry in pouring rain. 5 RB to Lower Offs.

FA: Jason Lammers & Steve Hawkshaw, 2006

20Sport 10m
16 * The Nose in 4 Minutes

Clip 1st bolt then streno start past 2nd bolt, then blistfull balancey moves past several more RB to anchors. For full value do the extension all that way to top of cliff.

FA: Simon Vaughan, Gavin Murray, 2004

22Sport 9m
17 The Nose in 4 Minutes - Extension

From the anchors on tNi4m, keep on going thru overhung territory and up to anchors on left.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2008

24Sport 16m
18 * Rooster

Start up Chook, then move right before the break (long draw here) then pull on to crimpy headwall. Then easily up to anchors...

FA: Jason Lammers, 2008

25Sport 16m
19 * Chook

New FHs in 2000 replaced some only manky bolts. Now a fantastic excursion. Undercut start, then slab to sustained head wall. 5 FHs to lower off.

20Sport 16m
20 Chicken

4 RB to join 'Chook' at the headwall

Start: Start 4m L of 'Chook' below RB's

FA: Simon Vaughan

20Sport 16m

1.9.2. Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall 13 routes in Cliff

Sport and Trad
Description:© (bundybear)

This is the very prominent 85° wall with a small overlap near the top. The first two routes 'Trollberg' and Pinocheo's nose aren't actually on this wall but to the R.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Courner From Heaven

Up the obvious easiest line up the corner, then the weakness in the headwall As for Corner from Hell Up the corner wandering right at one third height then balance up the headwall to the same anchor as Chicken and Chook

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2010

18Sport 20m, 7
2 Corner From Hell

Start: 15m left of C.

Up obvious corner (dubious pro) to tree belay. (11/2012 - the climb is now fully bolted with lower-offs)

FA: David Duke (solo), 2000

16 RTrad 15m
3 Score the Lazy Route

Obvious blunt feature, just left of CFH

FA: Brad Lumb and Jason Lammers

Set by Jason Lammers

25Sport 10m, 4
4 * Sentry Duty


FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009

22Sport 10m
5 Suprise

Start: 10m left of CFH, near tree.

Up past 4 RBs to double RB lower off.

FA: G Murray & S Vaughan

20Sport 15m
6 * Mousetrap

Start: 2m left of S.

Fine short wall to ledge. Beautiful balance moves to last bolt. 4 RBs to lower off on T.

FA: Simon Vaughan, L. Robinson, Gavin Murray, 2001

19Sport 16m
7 Trollberg

A weird crux section at 3rd bolt (can be avoided on L, don't!). Start at bulgy face with RB's 14m L of CFH. Up to double rings.

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pauluffchenko, 1997

21Sport 16m
8 Trollberg McDougall

Same as 'Trollberg', but at 3rd bolt move to the left and use the crack, then up and back on the climb and continue to anchors.

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pawlutschenko, 1997

19Sport 16m
9 Pinocchio's Nose

Not too bad, start: 2m left of T, below dirty corner crack.

Up the crack (4 RBs plus natural gear) to tree belay.

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pawlutschenko, 1997

18Trad 18m
10 * The Red Room

Start: 2m left of PN.

Haul onto wall, then edge up arete passing 4 RBs. Double RB lower off.

FA: Simon Vaughan, Gavin Murray

17Sport 16m
11 * Hugh Town

Steep Start up blunt arete as for Red Room then balance up featured slab to same lower off as Red Room

FA: Simon Vaughan

19Sport 15m
12 * Michael in Vox

For an excellent pumps and slightly more convenient version of Micheal in Shorts traverse R at break above BR to join VP

FA: Craig Martin, 1996

18Trad 16m
13 Vox Populi Lite

Trad Economics on this one. As for VP.Up 'Vox Populi' to move left at ledge at bottom of crack and up thin looking wall to gain lower off ring on 'Vox Populi' finish. Protect using good preplaced cams in break above the thin wall with long slings and pro as for 'Vox Populi' up to and including the crack.

FA: Gavin Murray, Simon Vaughan, 2002

22Trad 16m

1.9.3. Vox Populi Wall 11 routes in Area

Sport, Trad and Unknown

This is the very prominent 85° wall with a small overlap near the top.


Walk 2 mins past the first cave area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Hugh Town

Right of Dorothy the Dinosaur

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2006

19Sport 15m
2 ** Dorothy the Dinosaur

Start 4m L of PN. Up past 5 RB's to Lower offs.

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pawlutschenko, 1997

17Sport 16m
3 ** Three and a Half Thousand

A ripper of a climb, great slopey slab climbing, and just a tad runout to keep you on your toes. Up the wall past 3 RBs, thru small overlap and 1 more BR to anchors. Stay tuned, the run out will soon be obliterated

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pawlutschenko, 1997

20Sport 16m
4 ** Vox Fox

start up Silver fox, and to straighten out the kink, finish up Vox Populi.

FA: David O'Donnell

16Unknown 15m
5 ** Vox Populi

Fabulous wall and small roof, the best 18 in the area. Start 5m L of TaHT below and left of FH. Up past 3 FH's and #1 cam or wires in flaring crack to U anchor. The 2nd FH has been replaced with a RB, and now climb past U bolt to 2 RB Lower offs shared with 'Silver Fox'.

FA: Garth Miller, Dave Duke, 1992

18Trad 15m
6 * Silver Fox

Start 4m left of VP. Up slab with some nice balancy moves. Move right and cross VP and straight up over rooflet. 5RB to DRB Lower off.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2006

20Sport 16m
7 ** Iclimb

Up Silver Fox past newly added first bolt and up to rock over past the bulge and straight up the headwall to DRB anchors in orange scoop. Start as for Silver Fox Fine balancy climbing just after the start and on to the anchors.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2012

20Sport 15m
8 Michael in Shorts

Start: 3m left of VP, below corner.

Up the corner then over the overlap (BR) to tree belay.

FA: Craig Martin, 1996

16Trad 15m
9 Michael in Shorts Variant 18Trad 15m
10 Digit Dave

Up corner to step L and up second vague corner.

FA: David and Simon Duke, 1990

12Trad 15m
11 Selective Cleansing

One for the Kiddies :-) Start just left off the corner, up the blunt arete.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2012

14Sport 10m, 3

1.9.4. Central Area 40 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

This is the area centered around the obvious high, orange corner crack around the corner from Vox Populi Wall. There are a number of routes in the upper tier above this area that can be accessed by climbing the rebolted Garth Miller 14, "Open to Public Srutiny"

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Open to Public Scrutiny

Has new steel. Several rings to lower off. Clip the lower offs and move past them if you want to do the routes on the 'Piccolo Luna' sundeck. There are also new double ring bolts at the base of the 'Piccolo Luna' wall for belaying and rapping

Start: Start at inviting looking section of slabbiness.

FA: Garth Miller, Jay Williams, 1992

14Sport 20m
2 * B

Start at vegetated

corner 2m L of OPS. A fine climb once the botany is

avoided, delete the star if you avoid the second pitch.

  1. 12m (14) Avoid vegetation in initial corner, then head up the lovely corner above to belay on carrots on Picolo Luna sundeck.

  2. 6m (15) The deceptively tricky thin yellow corner crack / flake. Natural belay at top or lower off Picolo Luna rings.

FA: P1. Craig Sloss P2. David Duke, 1990

15Trad 18m
3 Reborn

Up the short corner. he unnamed Tim Cartwright route 1991. Now with 3 ringbolts in the corner up high. Start as for Quart De Seicle etc. Up past vege and then into the steepish short corner. Finish at the anchors of Alpine ie. trend left at the top after you come out of the corner.

4 C 15Sport 15m
5 * Planetarium

Up the arete At arete on the right hand side of the compact wall Thug to block, pull through on finger jugs to balancy finish

FA: Simon Vaughan

19Sport 8m, 3
6 Piccolo Luna

3m right of P2 of B. A tough little unit. Up nice compact wall past 2 RBs to DRB lower off.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2004

20Sport 8m, 2
7 Top Shelf Goodies

Use the crack to gain the first bolt. Make a long reach left to great pockets and finish on jugs to the top. Over too soon. Start just left of the crack.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2010

18Sport 8m, 4
8 Upper Class

Hard pulls through the scoop. Great jugs to the top. Start below the left hand arete of the sundeck ledge.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2010

19Sport 8m, 3
9 Top Notch

Hard pulls through the scoop. Great jugs to the top. Start below the left hand arete of the sundeck ledge.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2010

17Sport 8m, 3
10 Quart de Seicle

Start: Up the B gully to the platform to clip the first ringbolt. Pull through overhang then move right (crux). Up past RB's and FH's to lower offs.

Start: Below vege gully and obvious hanging headwall

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

19Sport 15m, 6
11 * Deception

A nice fingery wall. Up QDS however trend left at overhang to RB on headwall, then up past FH and another RB to same lower off as QDS.

Start: Up vege gully as for QDS

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

19Sport 15m, 6
12 * Deception Variant 20Sport 15m
13 * Kiddies Chorus

The left of the 3 routes on the amazing high headwall Up vege gully as for Deception and QDS Up the leaning yellow corner and step right onto the mini arete and then onto the headwall

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2010

20Sport 25m, 8
14 D 17Sport 15m
15 D Piker's Variant 15Unknown 15m
16 * Alpine

Follow the ringbolts up to the prow up high At ringbolt about4-5 metres above track level Up through the overlaps with a bit of high stepping action, to an almost vertical finish

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2010

15Sport 20m
17 In the Inn of the Sixth Happiness 13Sport 20m
18 Snooze and You Lose

Up to the little closed seam/corner on surprising holds. Soloed by Garth Miller 27/12/91 5 metres left of In the Inn of the Sixth Happiness Up to the closed little corner/seam on surprising holds. A little mossy in parts due to absolutely no traffic since the historic solo in 1991

FA: Garth Miller - Solo, 1991

14Sport 20m
19 Parents in Pain

Re equipped with steel. Up the stepped looking arete passing 6RB's to lower offs several kilometres back from the top.

Start: At blunt arete 15 metres left of 'Alpine'

FA: Garth Miller, Jay Williams, 1991

15Sport 20m, 6
20 Parents in Pain Pussy Variant 13Sport 20m
21 First Born

Start 2 metres left of Parents. Pull through the slot and ramble to the steep all. Keep right on the jugs for a fair grade. Finish at Parents lower offs.

FA: matttranter, 2011

17Sport 20m, 8
22 Thomas the Tank

Start under the over hung crack. Lock off in the crack and dyno for the thank god hold on the lip.

FA: matttranter, 2011

20Sport 10m, 6
23 Everything Audrey

Same death start as Pre Pimple Pop

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2009

16Sport 12m
24 * Pre Pimple Pop / Pre Pimple Pop (needs rebolting)

A fantastic overhang, one of the most popular routes in the Southern Highlands. Start 7m L of PIP under obvious imposing overhang. Up onto slab via L or R (BR) then through overhang to pull lip (crux) lower off U anchor or continue powering through juggy choss! 5 BR's including U Anchor.

Start 7m L of PIP under the obvious imposing overhang.

A fantastic overhang, one of the most popular routes in the Southern Highlands. Up onto slab via L or R (BR) then through overhang to pull lip (crux). Lower off, or continue powering through juggy choss. 5 BR inc anchor.

FA: Garth Miller, Tim Cartwright, Craig Sloss, 1991

19Sport 15m, 5
25 Judas Escariot

Start 2m L of PPP. Named after Tim Cartwright went under Craig Slosses nose and stole his project! Rebolted with 8 rings to lower offs.

Start: Left of Pre 'Pimple' Pop at jugs at track level

FA: Tim Cartwright, 1991

20Sport 10m
26 ** Mango Tango

Start in small corner L of JE. Absolutely brilliant top

moves once you've bumbled over the bulge. 4 new RB to Lower Offs.

FA: Garth Miller, 1991

22Sport 15m
27 F 14Unknown 15m
28 G (Project) 25Unknown 15m
29 Drill Attack

Start 15m L of MT at RB. Up to the L to power through

overhang and tricky mantle to easy ground. Good buying at 23.

FA: Mark Farrel, Cameron Breeze, Mark Pauluffchenko, 1997

23Sport 15m
30 * Manchester United

1m left of PDA. Boulder start to first RB then up past 3RBs to mantle through to another RB to DRB lower off shared with DA.

20Sport 15m
31 * The Big Day Out

Stick clip first FH. Up wall and clip 2nd, nice rest here b4 a very large reach move to 3rd FH. Continue up head wall past more FH's to chains in cave. New RB's where you need them.

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

24Sport 15m
32 *** Quickie Quim Fill

Pure Hill GOLD !! Start 3m L of TBDO (just around the corner). Hard moves to start with then sustained moves to double ring lower off. One of the best routes at MtA.

FA: Graham Hill, 1997

25Sport 12m
33 ** Burnt Moon

Up Quickie for the first 4 bolts to the cauliflower finger jug for the clip of the 5th bolt to the right. Trend up and right, negotiate the bulge then towards the arete to DRB LO

Set by Simon Vaughan, 2013

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2013

24Sport 12m, 6
34 The Dead Horse Project (Bundy)

Up QQ and past crux till 4th bolt, then move left on great pockets clipping a bolt. Then enter the crux on SA and up to new lower offs.

FA: Project - Jason Lammers

25Sport 15m
35 ** Suspended Animation

A fantastic route up a superb line. 3m L of QQ. Stick dip first bolt, batman up to obvious jug, then up the crimpy wall to the crux past the last bolt.

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

24Sport 10m
36 Green Gate

Stem up corner to start then trend right to anchors. Start just left of SA at the green grassy 'gate'. Open the gate !! and pull up the little corner to the pedestal. Edges, slopes and layaways up vertical wall after stepping right from the corner when you can.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2012

21Sport 12m
37 E 10Unknown 20m
38 H ?(S)Sport 10m
39 I ?Unknown 10m
40 Ramble Scramble 5Unknown 10m

1.9.5. The Boulder 7 routes in Cliff

Unknown and Sport
Description:© (bundybear)

Downhill from SA you can glimpse a boulder through the trees. There are only three average climbs on it. They are all junk so some1 else can update the database.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Posture Correction

Left hand arete of boulder.

FA: Ken McKeon, 2007

15Sport 10m
2 J Posture (link up) 16Unknown 9m
3 J carrots with chain on lowest 16Unknown 9m
4 K carrots and protruding hanger 16Unknown 7m
5 J 10Unknown 10m
6 I'd Rather be Gardening 12Unknown 10m
7 K 16Sport 7m

1.9.6. The Alcove 5 routes in Cliff

Sport and Trad

Small and broken walls before you reach the Big Cave area. fun low grade and short routes. Lots of moss and a little bit of bad rock so take care.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Fat Like Butter

Nice jug pulling start and then up the scoup. Watch out for the band of bad rock at 2/3 height. Start just left of the big tree.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2010

16Sport 9m, 5
2 Welcome to Moss Vegas.

Short and balancy. will be Ok once the moss wears off a bit! Hard 21.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2010

21Sport Project 8m, 5
3 Grounds for Divorce

A brief bulge and then it is slab city. Remember, friends don't let friends do slabs!

FA: Matt Tranter, 2010

16Sport 9m, 5
4 Fright Night 3

Up layback crack forking right at the crack junction.

FFA: Simon Vaughan, 2014

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2014

7Trad 10m
5 Back to the Future

Climb up the Arete. Short and Sharp. Could well have been in the really old guide book as a Top roped boulder problem V0/1. Start in the alcove below the Arete.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2010

20Sport 8m, 4

1.9.7. The Main Cave 30 routes in Cliff

Sport, Unknown and Trad
Description:© (bundybear)

The obvious massive cave with the high rooves. The routes on the right side of the cave on the buttress are newly rebolted with rings and are all very good. There is awesome pumpy roof climbing in the main cave.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 L / Untitled Route 16Sport 7m
2 M 8Unknown 10m
3 N 17Unknown 10m
4 O 25Unknown 10m
5 P 14Unknown 10m
6 * El Captain Pants

Rebolted 9/10/2010. Up little closed corner passing 3 RB's and surmount top of corner to clip the the first headwall RB of "Three Wise Monkey's" then step right. Up the tricky start and headwall.

How the boys arrived at grade 17 for this route I don't know?

FA: Flint Duxfield, Geordie Williamson, 1998

21Sport 20m, 8
7 ** Three Wise Monkeys

Newly rebolted so start up the little closed corner as for "El Captain Pants" and straight up the headwall passing a combination of 8 RB's and hangers.

FA: Geordie Williamson, Flint Duxfield, 1998

22Sport 20m, 8
8 * What Would You Say if I Said to You that this Gun was Loaded?

Newly rebolted. Step left after climbing the bolted little corner and up nice orange and featured headwall to lower offs. Beautiful really. Up closed little corner as for "Three Wise Monkeys" Some hold searching required mid height

FA: G. Williamson. F. Duxfield, 1998

19Sport 20m, 8
9 Downhill Demise

Up little corner step left and up line of bolts right of Airy not scary. Nice longish moves. Up little bolted corner as for Airy Not Scary Nice moves up flakes, bit of friction when lowering off, unclip some draws on the way down if some else is doing it with the draws in!

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2011

17Sport 15m, 7
10 ** Airy Not Scary

Up little bolted corner from ground level and traverse left and up on RB's right of "White Limbo" on the headwall, on holds that you know you just won't let go of. This route finishes up the second last line of rings up the headwall looking right to left above the main cave.Start up bolted closed little corner as for the previous routes

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2010

18Sport 20m, 7
11 ** White Limbo

Fantastic jugging through a small section of the main roof. Start 3m Downhill from arête at traverse line. Traverse L past #1 SLCD placement to 2 BR's into small roof (BR) then up and left past 2 FH's to double rings. 5 BR's.

FA: Garth Miller, 1991

19Trad 20m
12 ** White Limbo Direct

Start as for O. Up as for O to join WL at traverse line. Then as for WL.

FA: G Williamson, F Duxfield., 2000

19Trad 20m
13 ** Opiate

A very nice climb! Start as for WWYSIISTYTTGWL(!) up to clip new RB, one move up then traverse L to BR up into cave as for WL then fire straight up wall to chains.

FA: G. Williamson. F. Duxfield., 2000

19Sport 20m
14 * Sensei Woo

"Batman" up to obvious good incut holds, then heave up to slab and up headwall as for "Airy Not Scary" Underneath big grey bulge 5 metres right of Project - Simon Vaughan All you need is belief and a little bit of Kung Fu

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2013

21Sport 15m
15 * Desparate Liaisons

Start: Left of O, below middle of roof. Stick clip first BR, then dyno and slab up to roof. Out the lovely roof to double RB lower off just over lip. 7 RBs in total.

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

27Sport 15m
16 Project - Simon Vaughan

After heaving up the same start as "Desperate Liasons" head right to get into the obvious hole and slap like a madman to get into the big scoop above and right, up mini arete, then finish up "Airy Not Scary". Hardest thing I have put up, it might be a giveaway to a cranker

Sport 20m
17 * Ultine Demence

Start: 4m left of DL. Up to 3rd BR, then move right and up past 5 more BRs (stay right) to chain. The last bolt is hard to clip, and is safe to skip on the RP attempt.

FA: Garth Miller, 1993

27Sport 15m
18 ** Controlled Hysteria

Start as for UD (in the middle of the cave), up past a carrot and continue up to the 6th hanger (has mallion attached). Then move left to finish on chain shared with DdF.

FA: Garth Miller, 1991

25Sport 15m
19 * Diagonal Hysteria

Start up TCD to join DdF up till 5th BR then go straight ahead past another bolt to join CH.

25Sport 15m
20 *** Diagonal du Fou

A good route to get pumped senseless on! Start as for CH, at 3rd bolt (2nd hanger) move to the left and up and over roof. Milk the rest and traverse up on the lip of the cave past squillions of bolts to chain shared with CH.

FA: Garth Miller, 1992

23Sport 15m
21 The Cave Direct (Project) 21Sport 13m
22 The Cave Direct

Start 3m L of the starts for DdF and CH. Move up on slopers and mantle to join DdF, the up past 3 bolts and continue straight up to chain shared with previous climbs.

FA: G. Williamson. F. Duxfield., 2000

21Sport 15m
23 Out on a Limb

A good way to experience massive pump without the crux of DdF, pity about the grotty start. Start 10m L of TCD move R with Natural Protection to sit down under roof. Out as for DdF.

FA: F Duxfield, 1997

21Trad 10m
24 Au Cheval

On the outside wall of the cave

FA: V Wills, 2008

19Sport 15m
25 Fractured Fantasy

The next one along

FA: V Wills, R Wills, 2008

18Sport 10m
26 Fat Like Butter

Nice jug pulling start and then up the scoup. Watch out for the band of bad rock at 2/3 height. Start just left of the big tree.

16Sport 9m, 4
27 Welcome to Moss Vagus

Tiny crimps. Short and sweet.

21Sport 8m
28 * Back to the Future

Climb up the Arete. Short and Sharp. Could well have been in the really old guide book as a Top roped boulder problem V0/1. Start in the alcove below the Arete.

20Sport 8m
29 Fright of the Bumbly Bee 12Unknown 40m
30 Empire of the Senseless 17Unknown 10m

1.9.8. Beyond the Cave 3 routes in Cliff

All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 People Everywhere 19Unknown 15m
2 Everyday People 17Unknown 15m
3 Weird People 19Unknown 15m

1.10. Area 51 7 routes in Crag

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.458920, -34.439819

Description:© (bundybear)

Useful Info: Area 51, also known as Groom Lake, is a secret military facility about 90 miles north of Las Vegas. The number refers to a 6-by-10-mile block of land, at the center of which is a large air base the government will not discuss. The site was selected in the mid-1950s for testing of the U-2 spyplane, due to its remoteness, proximity to existing facilities and presence of a dry lake bed for landings. Groom Lake is America's traditional testing ground for "black budget" aircraft before they are publicly acknowledged. The facility and surrounding areas are also associated -- with varying levels of credibility -- with UFO and conspiracy stories. In 1989, Bob Lazar claimed on a Las Vegas television station that he had worked with alien spacecraft at Papoose Lake, south of Area 51. Since then, "Area 51" has become a popular symbol for the alleged U.S. Government UFO cover-up.

Routes are described right to left as you approach the crag.

Approach:© (bundybear)

Park at the Gym/Swimming Pool Carpark.

Head straight up the hill on foot, passing the gym until you reach the fire access road (about 20 metres past the gym). There is a sign calling it the RED Track.

Follow this road down hill as it runs beside the Nattai River (looks more like a creek). After four or five minutes you should see a wooden post painted white on the bottom and red on top on the left side of the fire access road.

Walk 108 steps past this and then turn right off the road into bush down towards the river. Look for yellow tape on trees and cairns to guide the way.

Cross river easily and walk up steep hill veering gradually left as you go. Head up towards the cliffs at the top (about three to five minutes).

When you get to the cliff turn left and look for the ring bolts about five to ten metres along cliff. The first climb you come to is 'Butch'. This is a new crag so expect some loose rock for a while.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Butch

First climb on cliff. Follow RBs up series of roofs to reach large sundeck. Climb middle of wall following

RBs (easier climbing up left edge of wall but not as nice). Head up to chain lower off. Lower off slowly to avoid rope wear over edge.

FA: G Murray

21Sport 16m
2 * 51 Equipe

Left of B. Makes 51 a sport climb. Clip bolts on right hand wall to access rings on 51 headwall.

FA: Gavin Murry, 2003

21Sport 17m
3 * Graduation

Natural pro up a juggy crack. Start up the corner crack of 51 and move right at ledge and finish up obvious crack. Carefully traverse left at top and use 51 lower off.

Start: Start: At corner crack.

FA: W. Midson, 2000

17Trad 15m
4 * 51

Head up easy corner with cams and wires to reach first RB. Clip and head up jugs to chain lower off. 4 RBs and natural pro for bottom

FA: gavin murray

21Sport 15m
5 * Wagging

Climb large rock, clip first bolt and step on to wall at juggy overhang. Head up trending left to gain ledge. Move over slabby bulge to reach arete. Up juggy wall just left of arete clipping RBs as you go. Double chain lower off.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 2000

21Sport 20m
6 * Truant

Nice juggy face climb. Clip first RB, then difficult moves off ground. Cruise to double RB lower off. Five RBs in total.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2000

16Sport 15m
7 Hookey

Below crack left of T.

Up crack on natural gear, not very good by most accounts.

16Trad 15m

1.11. Mt Gibraltar 19 routes in Crag

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.431552, -34.466768

1.11.1. Northern end 5 routes in Unknown

Trad and Sport

Climbers Left. To walk down the Northern Descent, go north along the rim track for about 80m to the end of the rock shelf, then head down and left, there is a big boulder above "Punks on the Gib", the gully is just to the left of it. The gully between this buttress and the slabs is too scary to descend (and a bit grim to climb up) To get out, walk up the Northern Descent. 14 Wall 5 routes in Cliff
Trad and Sport

1.11.2. Main Wall 13 routes in Unknown

Sport and Trad

Located directly below Mount Jellore lookout. Main wall hosts all of the fully bolted routes at Mount Gibraltar, and the highest concentration of classics at the crag. The rap below Jellore lookout deposits you here.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Trubl

Thin crack on left wall of main corner.

FA: M.Law, S.Butler, 1987

26Trad 50m
2 the Italian Route

Slab 10m left of Slow Twitch corner. 4 BRs.

FA: Patrick Burr, 2012

20Sport 20m
3 ** The Anty Climb

Slab 6m left of Slow Twich corner. Avoid corner, staying left on slab. 6 bolts.

FA: Vanessa Peterson, 2012

22Sport 20m
4 ** Slow Twitch

Start below obvious corner. Up slab to corner, then up corner to finish. Lower-Offs. 7 bolts.

FA: M. Law, 1988

20Sport 30m
5 *** Slow Twitch Extension

Start as for Slow Twitch, then continue up corner to top.

FA: M. Law, 1988

25Sport 40m
6 ** Mikl's Face Project - CLOSED PROJECT

CLOSED PROJECT - MIKL. The line of bolts straight up the face between the Slow Twitch Corner and the obvious line of Sluj Gulpa.

Set by Mike Law

Sport Project 35m
7 Mikl's Chimney Project - CLOSED PROJECT

CLOSED PROJECT - MIKL. The malevolent Chimney between the Slow Twitch corner, and the obvious line of Sluj Gulpa.

Set by Mike Law

Sport Project 35m
8 *** Sluj Gulpa

6m right of Slow Twitch corner. P1 - Up corner to diagonal crack. Right along crack to belay. 4 bolts. P2 - Right to BR, then up and left past 4 more bolts. P3 - Up to flake, then continue up to top. 6 bolts.

FA: Mike Law, Geg Child, Greg Moore, Giles Bradbury, 1988

23Sport 60m
9 * Offal Dredger

Start approx 30m right of Slow Twitch, around corner. Short, curving corner.

FA: A. Prehn, 1979

22Trad 12m
10 James Bultitude Closed Project / Modern Masculinity

Closed project, has been scrubbed and some bolts added awaiting the send.

Please respect and keep off until it is finished.

Climb up and left through the corner above the 1st belay on Big Bird.

Pitch 1: Climbs from the 1st belay on Big Bird straight up through corners and rooves. (Still closed) Pitch 2: Climbs the 'beak' direct. Has been redpointed and is open to be climbed. See "Modern Masculinity" top pitch below.

11 Modern Masculinity Top Pitch

Can be climbed as an alternate pitch to the final pitch of Big Bird. It's a little harder and a lot scarier. Seconds beware of the potential for a big swing. Maybe clean the second draw after mantling (you'll see). 2 fixed hangers on the left arete of the beak.

FA: James Bultitude, 2014

20Sport 15m, 2
12 ** Big Bird

Start at bolted slab down from Offal Dredger, below obvious steep layback corner. P1 - Up easy slab to groove and crack, then up and right to belay beneath steep layback corner. P2 - Up steep layback corner, which lessons to slab and crack. Step right past bolt, then hard, thin move through bulge to slab and belay. P3 - Left to "beak" feature. Up onto beak (with some difficulty), then up easily to single bolt-belay. Scramble up and left to lookout.

FA: Gareth Downey, Mikl Law, 2012

20Sport 75m
13 ** Comyns

Start 15m right of Offal Dredger, 6m right of Big Bird. Climb rib right of obvious corner. P1 - Up to corner and belay at ledge (gear). P2 - Right and around arete, up slab. At 4th bolt head up right to ridge, and back left to tree. P3 - Up cracks to easy ground.

FA: Mike Law, G.Eggins, 1986

20Trad 50m

1.11.3. Slab Walls 1 route in Cliff

All Trad

Slab buttresses to climbers left of the main wall.


Best to abseil in as per the main wall and walk around.

Descent Notes:

Best to abseil in as per the main wall and walk around.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Maur i Rompa

Walk around for 50 m from the start of big bird till you come to an easy crack/ramp which runs diagonally up from left to right. Follow this to the first bolt then up past another bolt to an easy bridging corner.

FA: James Bultitude, Jake Griffiths, Sam's Bosch, 2014

16Mixed 2

1.12. Hillbilly Highway Walls 4 routes in Crag

All Sport
Unique Features And Strengths:

Amphitheatre of scallops, scoops and flutings 30 metres in height and with a seductive steepness


Small crag with limited development but potential for loads of quality long hard routes. Some previous development in the area.

Access Issues:

As with all local crags. Park well, keep clean and quiet.


2 minute walk in. Close to the coffee shops of Berrima.


Bolted crag.

1.12.1. Left hand wall. 1 route in Sector


Shorter wall on the left hand side of the crag. Steep with fine features. Upper ledge area to be developed (maybe!)


Up hill, turn left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Rub al Khali

Up the wave feature in the middle of the wall, on to massive ledges.

FA: MT and RH

18Sport 9m, 4

1.12.2. Main Wall - Central Flutings. 2 routes in Cliff


Big wall. Flutings and pillars. Orange.


Straight up the hill.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Deliverance

Up to highest point on the flutings after meaty start and balancy low crux Start at middle of wall up on ledge. After scrambling up from the left,start beneath first high bolt ie. 6 metre batman. Technical and then thuggy climbing up the very steep blade. Take the rest in the mini scoop up high so you don't fade off the top moves before the anchors

FA: SV, 2012

22Sport 20m, 11
2 ** Where Angels Fear To Tread.

Traverse in right, up the fluting using the right hand arete. Surmount the roof.

FA: MT, 2013

21Sport 30m, 14

1.12.3. Right hand wall. 1 route in Sector


Shorter, harder.


Up the hill, turn right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project 1 - Matt T / Simon V

Crimping on wafer thin fluting.

24Sport Project

1.13. Perpendicular Rock 35 routes in Crag

All Trad

Long/Lat: 150.097235, -34.310066


A big bluff of diorite looming over the Wollondilly river valley, this unique and obscure crag is guaranteed to provide adventure.

The Sydney Rockies online guide can be found here: http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/confluence/display/nswrock/Wollondilly

Access Issues:

On private property. Permission to climb was apparently granted by the landowners in 1998. The block the crag is located on is completely undeveloped, and you almost certainly will not run into a soul.


Wombeyan Caves Road, then a big slog up the hill through the bush and up the talus.

Where To Stay:

Camping in the Wollondilly valley is described in the guide. If you're driving down from Sydney the night before, the Wollondilly Lookout, on your right a short while after you go through the old sandstone tunnel, is a good but exposed bivy spot.


Purely trad. Not a single bolt here.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Butterflies 12Trad 80m
2 Surprise Gully 14Trad 90m
3 Orchid Route 15Trad 100m
4 Orchgasm 15Trad 100m
5 Centrepiont 17Trad 120m
6 Samson 18Trad 95m
7 *** Hercules 20Trad 85m
8 * Hydra 20Trad 65m
9 Close Call 15Trad 65m
10 Jungle Trail 12Trad 120m
11 * Acreterion 15Trad 50m
12 Odyssey 14Trad 110m
13 * Hullaballoo 16Trad 45m
14 ** Command Performance 18Trad 100m
15 Odyssey - Command Performance linkup

Aka "Heart Of Darkness" From the second belay on Odyssey, crawl right and up the ridge and around to the second belay on Command Performance, through horrendous vegetation. Continue up CP.

FA: James Bultitude, Sam May, 2013

17 A1Trad 100m
16 Blues Climb 17Trad 80m
17 Easy Terms 14Trad 80m
18 Face Value 17Trad 35m
19 No Cents 19Trad 30m
20 Doopiatsa 15Trad 85m
21 High Interest 13Trad 25m
22 Wanderlust 4Trad 80m
23 * Striptease 13Trad 35m
24 Burlesque 12Trad 90m
25 Goliath 12Trad 12m
26 Wisper 10Trad 15m
27 Notadod 15Trad 20m
28 UMB 15Trad 30m
29 Hotchpotch 11Trad 42m
30 Hotchpotch Direct Start 18Trad 10m
31 Cot 15Trad 15m
32 Footloose 14Trad 40m
33 Fancy Free 11Trad 30m
34 Single Sided 10Trad 15m
35 Strendipity 8Trad 20m

1.14. The Loony Bin 14 routes in Crag

Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.502451, -34.682571

Unique Features And Strengths:

Great rock. All the starts are hard, most routes have a roof or two.


12 metre high wall capped with a roof in most places. Vertical to steep routes on beautiful rock. Routes described left to right.

Access Issues:

National park land so take care with new routes. Park at the 2nd Shellhaven sign as you leave Fitzroy Fall.


Walk up the road for two minutes.



RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * The Great Escape

Total Madness! -Traverse the crag at the main break. Start up the first set of bolts you arrive at, clip any of the bolts on the routes you pass. Rest 2/3rds along at big crack and then push on to the bitter end- why? Just because it's there! Finish when you run out of cliff.

FA: Dave D, Matt T., 2000

19Sport 30m, 8
2 ** Cuckoos Nest

Up and trend right to the break under the roof. Pull up through the head wall to the anchors.

A beautiful piece of work, very sexy moves Start under the right hand side of the roof. 6RB's to LO

FA: Simon Vaughan

21Sport 12m, 6
3 ** Summer Madness

Hard start and then trend left along the edge of the roof. Great knee bar and a nice pull through the roof to end. Start at the right hand side of the roof cap.

FA: Mad Matt T., 2000

21Sport 12m, 5
4 * Martini

Traverse right and take a full body rest if you must at the ledge. Pull through grit style slopers to the top.

Shares the first bolt with Summer Madness.

FA: Simple Simon, 2010

20Sport 12m, 5
5 ** Soul Asylum

Very bouldery start to the break. Start well right of the first bolt and pull really hard and far right to the big ledge. (Unless you boulder V5 then go straight up.)Pull through the large ledge and on to the face and then rush to the top. Start at the next fully bolted route about 10 metres right of Martini.

FA: Matt T., 2010

23Sport 12m, 6
6 * Big Indian

Bouldery start to good break. Difficult moves through the small roof

FA: Simple Simon, 2010

21Sport 10m, 6
7 Take Your Meds

Hard start, go right after first bolt.

23Sport 10m, 6
8 Take Your Meds - Project Matt T

Another hard pull to start before reaching the break and the great overhanging flakes above.

Take care with the run out past the overhang and the roof with a sandy feel.

Going to be 22 / 23.

23Sport Project 12m, 6
9 Good Morning Nurse Ratched

Up corner/groove and then push right onto the arete and up 3 metres left of Mad Patty in coner/groove

FA: Simple Simon, 2010

21Sport 12m, 5
10 Mad Patty.

Up the vague arete on the block at the far right hand end of the crag. Start 2m left of 'Simpleton Steps'

Harder than it looks.

FA: Simple Simon, 2010

20Sport 12m
11 Simpleton Steps

Easily up arete to slight steepening then up to recess just before lower offs Up the blunt arete at far right end of the crag, as for Orderly Turkle Sort of a warm up for here

FA: Simple Simon, 2010

15Sport 9m, 4
12 PROJECT - Lobotomy

Start: 2 metres right of GMNR

13 PROJECT - Head Space Unknown
14 Project - Simple Simon

Up flat wall to ltlle pillar then move right along lip then up headwall

Start: Sart at first bolt you come to

Unknown 12m

1.15. The Sanctuary 14 routes in Crag

All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.443909, -34.441897


A collection of cliffs from 10 to 20 metres in height overlooking a picturesque valley. Near Mittangong, details TBA

1.15.1. Hobo's Hangout 10 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

A couple of great routes on good rock make a mornings visit worthwhile.


Collection of routes scattered off the path betwenn Mittagong and the Hume Highway.

Access Issues:

From Lake Alexandra walk 15 minutes down the path to the left. Once in the valley floor look right up the hill and you will spot the cliffs. The large crack at the top of the incline is the centre of Dad's Crag.


20 metres before reaching Dad's Crag, hike uphill for 5 minutes just before the path rises from the valley floor.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** New Years Edge

Up obvious shapely arete to LO's just below picnic ledge, awesome moves throughout 15 metres up hill from Happy Hogmanay Really beautiful moves get on it. Looks like grade 13 from the bottom

FFA: Simon Vaughan, 2011

21Sport 15m, 7
2 Happy Hogmanay

Start just to the right of the large zawn / cave system. Trend right up the ramp until forced left out on to the arete. Great jugs to the top

FFA: Matt Tranter, 2011

17Sport 14m, 8
3 Desolation Row

Hard first move and then great pocket pulling to the top. Harder for the short. Start 5 meters down the hill past a small overhung cave.

FA: Matttranter, 2012

22Sport 9m, 4
4 Tangled up in Blue

Lots of long reaches, just as I like it! Start 2 metres down the hill from Desolation Row.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2012

21Sport 9m, 4
5 * Sins of the Father

Good climbing up to a dynamic finishing leap. 1m further left.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2012

22Sport 8m, 4
6 * The Crow Road

First route to the left of the knotted rope leading to the upper layer.

FA: Matt T, 2012

18Sport 9m, 4
7 4000

Layback and stem up corner to surmount party ledge. Up superb face to LO. Start by scrambling up onto to ledge from the left to start below stout little corner 80 metres left of Millionaires Jeans Old style layback corner work to one punchy face move crux up high

FA: Simon Vaughan., 2012

21Sport 18m, 6
8 * The Ghost

Up to party ledge and move right through the gold Start as for ' 4000 ' Finger jugs through some pleasant steepness and perfect rock.

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2012

23Sport 12m
9 ** Curse of the Pikeys

100metres right of the last climb on the same height as Millionaire. Climb straight up the gold to the juggy roof.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2012

19Sport 12m
10 Millionaire in Jeans

Easily up scoops and trend right towards the arete, to big jugs at finish Start below grey headwall at bolts in the orange scoops

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2012

17Sport 12m, 5

1.15.2. Dad's Crag 4 routes in Crag


First area developed. Large Hobo cave with short overhung routes on hard Mt Alex rock.

Access Issues:

Directly oppersite the very large boulder in the river. Look up right on the hill side and you will see the crack of "Ä Family Affair."

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 A Family Affair.

Start dirctly under the large crack and flake.

Pull up on to the first ledge and then follow the crack upwards. Harder finishing moves.

The hanging flake is hollow so belayers stand a little to the side.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2011

21Sport 14m, 5
2 * Beautiful Bruce

Up steep white wall Underneath gold steep section Up little niche on perfect grey rock, trend right and up past big pocket. Dont let your guard down up high. For a 10 metre route you are kept busy. Grade is probably 21.5

FFA: Simon Vaughan, 2011

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2011

21Sport 10m, 5
3 Granddads Groove

Up through the scoups to the steep top. Start 6 metres to the right, just past the large cave.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2012

16Sport 9m, 5
4 No Country For Old Men

Up through the crumbly bands to the top. Short. Off Balance. A bit weird! 1 metre to the right.

FA: Matt Tranter, 2012

19Sport 6m, 4

1.16. To be deleted 0 routes in Area

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area