Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Southern Tablelands 1,119 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 149.560756, -34.821083

1.1. Cinderella Crag 24 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Unique Features And Strengths:

A new sport-climbing crag up steep white and orange sandstone. It is full of features and up to 40 metres in height. French translation of Cinderella is "of the ashes"

Description:

Crag gets morning sun, and shade after about 1pm. The base of the crag is a bit of a dustbowl - bring a large rope tarp. The crag also appears to heavily seep after extended rain.

Access Issues:

None… Until they lock the fire road gate then expect a long walk or bike ride. Keep a low profile when drilling, there are some people lurking around the fire trails on the weekends. Well maintained fire trail access is fine with a 2WD

Approach:

From Sydney, get on the M31 freeway and head south, take the XXXXX exit. From here locate XXXXX XXXXX road and follow this for 3.5 km, cross the railway and turn left into XXXX XXXXXX and continue for a further 4.5km until your speedo reads 8km. I think the road changes its name somewhere along this section of road to Wxxxx XXXXX Reset your speedo here at house number 392.

0.1km - Cross the railway

0.8km - Pass thru open gate and continue along dirt fire trail for 4.5km (just under 10min drive)

5.3km - Arrive at commuter car park

From here its an easy 2 min walk to the crag (follow the grey tape in the trees)

Where To Stay:

Camping is possible at the top of the crag.

Ethic:

Ring bolted sport routes with lower offs

History:

Discovered by Mark Farrell 15 years ago. Simon Vaughan given a pass after much badgering.

1.1.1. Top Deck 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

A short, overhung wall of good rock above and left of the main wall - directly above Wee Bean & First Blood.

Approach:

On the walk in, you will find a fixed rope leading across an orange wall to the big ledge and DRB belay. Stay clipped in at all times!

Descent Notes:

All routes have lower-offs.

1.1.2. Pitt Street Wall 11 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

The main wall and the first reached when you get to the bottom of the cliff. Nice white and orange rock with a squillion ringbolts. The start of all routes are quite hard on very polished white rock.

Approach:

At the base of the descent gully.

Descent Notes:

All routes have lower-offs.

1.1.3. White Knight Wall 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

The continuation of Pitt Street Wall to the right. This is mostly heavily vegetated but a couple of routes force there way through the greenery. White Knight is the only worthwhile route.

1.1.4. Pumper Wall 4 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

45m of steep over hanging stone. 3 routes off the communal start at the moment and scope for a couple more routes off the balcony.

Approach:

The next wall past the vertical wall.

1.1.5. Sandy Cave 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
Description:

Steep rock hard cave with fine white sandy bottom.

1.1.6. Vertical Face 1 route in Sector

Summary:
Description:

Area of vertical faces left of the Sandy Cave.

1.2. Bungonia Gorge 220 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.009497, -34.798623

Unique Features And Strengths:

Limestone gorge two hours from Sydney, three from the blue mountains. Need I say more. Only 1.5hrs from Canberra

Description:

Up to 300m limestone multi-pitch climbing with single pitch sport and bouldering at the base. Some shorter climbs are on scattered crags at the top of the gorge (Reflux Crag, Adams Lookout area). Rap-in, climb-out area at Cooee Point.

Access Issues:

The park is occasionally closed for feral animal control. Check here: http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/alert/state-alerts

Approach:

For the main deal, 3 min drive to the look out and then 30-40 min steep walk down the red track into the slot canyon. Cooee Point, Reflux Crag and Adams Lookout are a 15 minute walk from the car, if you find your way OK.

Where To Stay:

Camping on site. $10 per night plus $7 per car.

1.2.1. North Wall 36 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.016861, -34.795278

Description:© (redheckler)

This wall, one of the two main walls of the gorge, has some amazing routes. Unlike the 'South Wall', though, you have to rap back down whatever you've climbed all the way to the floor of the gorge, then walk out the long grind back uphill to the car. Allow an hour or two for the rap descent and walk-out, and bring a head torch!

Approach:© (redheckler)

The walk-down should take 25-30 minutes to the creekbed, then another few minutes to walk 100-200m down the creek to where the routes are. 'North Wall' is on your left as you walk downstream.

1.2.2. Chicken Wall 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.019640, -34.795756

Description:© (secretary)

Being on the North side of the gorge, you have to allow time to rap off after doing these routes then walk out.

Approach:© (secretary)

Further downstream of the buttress climbed by 'Olympus Mons' is a yellow wall about 60m uphill. I.e. 'Chicken Wall' is the eye catching yellow wall on the righthand end of the 'North Wall'.

1.2.3. South Wall 37 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 150.017406, -34.796539

Description:©

Gets the sun all day up high, hence good for winter climbing. However the Siblings headwall gets shade from about 4pm in the warmer months, allowing a few hours for shady evening climbing if you time your approach accordingly.

Approach:©

Park at William Mitchell carpark. Most people walk down, to do this follow the Red Track into the slot canyon (25-30 minutes). Turn right when you reach the creek bed. Walk downstream for a few minutes; the south wall is on your right.

It is also possible to abseil in. Get to the top of Siblings by walking down the Red Track for 5minutes until the first 10m high outcrop appears about 100m to your left, where you will find a well trodden path which breaks off to the right and then traverses across the hillside for about 300m. Once you reach the front of a broad ridge, the top of Siblings is about 100m down the ridge. The rap chains are a few metres from the clifftop, but you still need to approach with caution as the scree is a bit loose. Bring a rope protector for the top edge; and its probably best to fix a rope on the top abseil at least. You can get to the riverbed in 4 abseils (approx 30m, 55m, 55m, 55m). It might even be possible in three long abseils, given that from the clifftop to fifth belay is 60-65m (keep up a swing), fifth belay to third belay is 60-65m, and third belay to ground/bouldertops is about 60-70m(??). The three abseil approach has NOT been tested, but there are plenty of intermediate bolted anchors if you needed to change tactics.

Descent Notes:©

Many routes top out. To get back to the car its a pretty easy (15-20 minute) walk uphill. Option 1 is to follow the ridge (above Siblings) all the way to the hilltop (~10 minutes), then turn left and follow the plateau rim left through the scrub for about 300m to reach Bungonia Lookdown. Option 2 is to go up the ridge above Siblings for about 100m then pick up a well-trodden trail which heads R (W) and traverses for about 300m into the gully to join the Red Track. Option 1 is quicker if you have a car at the Lookdown but Option 2 is just as quick to the Red Track carpark and is better graded (less steep bits).

1.2.4. Nosferatu Wall 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 150.015460, -34.796053

Description:© (secretary)

This is the black slabby portion of the 'South Wall' to the right of the Siblings area, and left of the 'Phantom Menace' area. It's a real shame that most of this sector is inaccessible due to blank overhangs down low.

1.2.5. Phantom Menace Wall 25 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.014352, -34.795816

Description:

This is the overhanging wall with some prominent stalactites first up on your right when you enter the gorge walking downstream. There is a big tree'd (Big Greenie) ledge at 30m height. Celestial Mechanics starts from the left end of this ledge. Phantom Menace, Sith Lord and Evil Empire start above and mid way along it. The easiest way onto Big Greenie is via Polenta Pumper (25) - becomes easier with a long stick and some french freeing. Routes are listed from right to left when facing the cliff.

Approach:

Surprisingly, the walk in to here is very reasonable, and takes a little under 30 minutes at a moderate pace. Speedsters without knee problems could probably get here in 20 minutes. Walking back up the hill will probably take twice as long!

Descent Notes:

Most routes have bolted lower-off anchors suitable for a single 70m rope.

1.2.6. Efflux Crag 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.013278, -34.795693

Description:©

A little wall tucked away near the bottom of the descent track into the gorge.

Approach:©

Park at William Mitchell carpark. Walk down the red track. About 50m before you reach the bottom of the gorge, the track turns right and you scramble down a few metres into the creek bed. (it is easy to mistakenly walk past this turn, continuing along the side of the gully to a good view and a dead end). Cross the creek bed and scramble onto the ledge on the opposite side (RHS as you walk down).

1.2.7. Little Thai Wall 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.012632, -34.795449

Description:

This little wall is about 25m high and about 80m long. A great little warm up wall offering some of the easiest routes in the gorge. A great place to start to get the feel for limestone.

Approach:

This little wall is immediately on the left when you get to the bottom of the red track into the slot canyon. 30 mins steep walking from the carpark.

Descent Notes:

All the routes have lower offs.

1.2.8. Cooee Point 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.018627, -34.796947

Description:©

Red Super Giant is currently the only route to start at the bottom of the gorge and finish at this lookout. There are three distinct walls with 1 and 2 pitch rap in routes in this area. The top of the cliff proper is the first, this is Cooee wall. The next wall behind (ie back towards the car park) is Siren wall. The top of Siren wall is the sloping ledge that makes the base of Creole Cruiser wall.

Approach:©

From the lookdown car park walk over to the hanging metal grill lookout. From here hop the fence to the L and follow a faint track into the bush, staying on the rim. After about 80m there is a faint ridge/headland (if you take a detour out onto it you can look back and see the lookout hanging out above a vertical cliff). Walk another 20m away from the lookout and you are at the top of the descent gully. Not far down the gully you will pick up the old zigzagging walking track, which goes steeply downhill for 150m to the awesomely airy Cooee Point lookout, with rusty old steel posts and heavy cable wiring.

Routes are described left to right facing out, which is the order you approach them.

Ken Luck's route finishes to your left, looking out. To reach the top of the other climbs from the Cooee Point lookout, head to the right facing out. Be bloody careful scrambling around on the scree amongst the flimsy she-oaks. About 15m from the lookout rail, and a little downhill, there is a cluster of three bolts (2RB + 1FH) on a small exposed patch of rock. A 35m rap from here will get you into the cave at the top of the 1st pitch of Continuum. Bring a rope protector and/or hammer to round off the sharp edges. A further 15m along the cliff edge is a large old dead gum on the edge of the cliff and more rap bolts. These are at the top of In The Realm Of The Senses. For The Fat Controller, use this same anchor but rap over a single directional bolt 5m further along the cliff edge, at the top of a small arete.

1.2.9. Reflux Crag 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.016882, -34.797971

Description:©

Single-pitch sport climbs, close to the car-park. A few good routes and easier access than most, although a little tricky to find the first time.

Approach:©

Park at Bungonia Lookdown carpark. Walk towards the lookout and hop over the fence to the left just before you get to it. Follow the rim of the gorge for 50m to a spur or headland. (If you walk out on the headland you can look back to the lookout). From the headland head diagonally downhill until you come to a single 5m high sport climb (still a project at time of writing) on a mini-arete. From here, follow the contour around until you reach Reflux Crag.

1.2.10. Adams Lookout surrounds 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.011366, -34.798653

Description:© (secretary)

There are a few climbs halfway between the main lookout and 'Adams Lookout', at the top of the distinctive spine-shaped ridge. Feel The Groove is a great climb and makes the area worth a visit. There are no climbs at Adam's Lookout itself.

Approach:© (secretary)

From the Adams Lookout carpark, take the green track east towards the main lookout. After 50m cross a small railway-sleeper wooden bridge, after which the track turns left. Continue uphill for anther 100m to an open area on the top of a small knoll, where the track does a sharp turn to the right.

(Alternatively, park in the large carpark just before the main lookout, and head along the green track towards Adam's Lookout to the open area on a knoll).

Scramble downhill through the scrub (towards the main gorge) for about 100m, sticking on the ridgeline. You should be near the top of this wee crag. To access the climbs scramble down the side of the ridge to the right (east).

History:© (secretary)

This area was visited back in the dark ages by the Sydney Climbing Club. Although details are not recorded, you will find marked starts for some of these climbs.

1.2.11. Bungonia Bouldering 88 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.007373, -34.797812

Description:

Info coming soon!

1.3. Nerriga 95 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.136836, -35.088858

1.3.1. The Gym 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.3.2. Meat Slab 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.3.3. Mexico Wall 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.3.4. Pussy Buttress 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.3.5. Vulture Wall 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.3.6. Dead Head 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.3.7. Flintstone Slab 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.3.8. Granny Crag 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.3.9. Wig & Pen Slab 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad

1.3.10. Austin Powers Ledge 9 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad

1.3.11. West Side 6 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport

1.3.12. Slab Gully 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad

1.3.13. Oh Baby Buttress 13 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

1.3.14. Late Shift Ledge 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.135063, -35.088643

1.3.15. The Jumps 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.143252, -35.026890

Description:©

Germ Wall and Steel Wall are the first two on the left side. Steep white rock with ring bolts. Routes were bolted in 2009.

Approach:©

Coming from Braidwood in the south driving north on the Nerriga Road. Pass through the town of Nerriga, cross the river and after you drive up the hill passing the main Nerriga crag areas take the first dirt road on the left (proper road not a side track). Drive for about 7km until the road cuts up left before an obvious small rock band. Park and walk down the left creek line (West) for about 400m. There are walls on both sides, the first decent wall being on the RHS, continue along the RHS cliffs and after the first steep white cliff cross down and over the creek to the over side.

History:©

Discovered and developed by Chris Warner, with Zac Vertrees (so far).

1.3.16. Nerriga Bouldering 16 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.136332, -35.088831

Description:

Just starting to develop the area for bouldering. Anyone interested, please contact me: jackfolkes.blogspot.com.au

1.4. The Monastery 76 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.254420, -34.675307

Description:

The Monastery is a compact collection of sandstone boulders and walls along the base of a small cliff beside the reclaimed site of the old Penrose rubbish dump. There is a lot of rock in the area and no doubt many more fantastic bouldering areas are awaiting discovery nearby.

Approach:

The get here just get yourself to the town of Bundanoon (great for a morning coffee and breakfast before a day at the crag) and head towards the town of Penrose on Penrose Road. A couple of kilometres out of Bundanoon turn left onto Teudts Road. Just 400 metres down Teudts Road you will see a small dirt track turning off on your left. Turn in here and follow it along just past the old site of the rubbish dump (now a grass field just on your left.

History:

It first saw climbers visit in the early 1990’s with Adam Herdman and Pat Butler nabbing a few of the classic roadside face climbs but then more recently saw extensive development by Chas Ruffles, Ian Phillips, Ryan Winn, the Zuchetto Brothers, Phil Staples and more.

1.4.1. Sector 1 12 routes in Sector

Summary:

Long/Lat: 150.253970, -34.673866

Description:

Sector 1 of The Monastery is a collection of blocks just near the main road, where the cliff line begins. It holds some great problems including the fantastic, steep compression problem "Death Of The White Rabbit".

Approach:

To Sector 1 turn left and follow the track back toward the main road with the grass field on your left and park in the clearing just before the locked gate leading back onto the main road.

1.4.2. Sector 2 64 routes in Sector

Summary:

Long/Lat: 150.254421, -34.675706

Description:

Sector 2 of The Monastery is a large collection of boulders laying just beneath the main cliff line. It has several classic hard problems including the incredible "Tufa Line".

Approach:

For Sector 2, continue straight ahead a short way to a little pull off in the trees on your left, right in front of the first boulders.

1.5. Wingello 176 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.252475, -34.710215

Unique Features And Strengths:

Wingello has a good variety of climbing combined with fairly easy access and camping which make for a fantastic weekend away. If a day trip is more to your liking, Wingello is only an hour down the freeway from Liverpool in South Western Sydney. So it is well within the 2 hour day trip limit.

Description:

The crag is located in a great location over looking beautiful bushland about 20 minutes out of Wingello. The best coffee in Wingello is served at the Wingello Village store, which is located just over the railway tracks in the down town metropolis. They also sell pies, bread and basic lunch supplies. They open early on weekdays, but 8am on Saturdays – closed on Sundays. The walls of Supa Fun Happy and La Paz have some fantastic climbing with amazing almost Grampians like sandstone. Supa Fun Happy is a good wall to start at with a good mix of grades.

Access Issues:

Warning! Recently (March 2013) National Parks have erected a locked gate 200m from the fire fighters memorial and several very large boulders placed on the road at the entrance of the memorial. Keep in mind, if you park at the gate there is every chance that another climbing party could park you in resulting in a long stay if you return to your car and don't know where they're climbing.

From Sydney: Wingello is about 1 hour from the M7/M5 intersection and the crag itself is about 20 minutes out of Wingello (depending on your car). Wingello is best reached (from Sydney) by busting straight down the Hume Hwy to the turn off just after the Paddy’s River bridge. You can also go through Bundanoon but its probably a bit slower. From Macca’s on the Freeway its 11.5km to the Wingello turn off, and another 8km from there to the Wingello Railway Crossing. Reset your speedo on the railway line or at the shop .

From Canberra:

Reset Speedo at NSW Border on Federal Highway. The BP at Marulan is 110kms or 1hr drive. Wingello turn off is 124.7km or 1hr 10 mins. The railway crossing at Wingello is 131.6km or 1 hr 15mins.

Approach:

Detailed Directions from Wingello

  1. (0.0km) - Cross the railway track and turn right. Stop at General Store for supplies or lunch. Grab a coffee and a pie.

  2. (0.1km)- Take 1st LEFT onto Forest Road.

  3. (2.8km)- Continue along into Wingello State Forest,, past the state forest sign.

  4. (4.2km)- Turn RIGHT into Running Creek Road at campground ie. The grassy area between the tall trees

  5. (4.4km)- Turn LEFT about 100m later into Gulp Road

  6. (4.8km)- Veer leftish onto smaller looking road (its still Gulp Road) at first intersection

  7. (5.5km)- Veer right at next ‘V’ intersection

  8. (8.6km)- Take the LEFT most track at the clearing with the big tree. There is a sign "Morton National Park" at this point. The track gets a little rough from here but is ok for 2wd with a little care. Please ensure you get someone to check your vehicles ground clearance when going over the sharp rises.

  9. (10.9km)- Arrive at a fenced carpark with large gate at the northern end. Park here, grab your gear and walk through the gate to the fireman’s memorial.

  10. Take the LEFT fire trail down the very steep hill.

  11. Eastern Access: After approximately 200m down the hill is a track on the right, this track is to access the cliff from the eastern end. Follow this track for 150m till a small cairn marks the track decent down on the left, follow over a some rock drops and down to a gully.

  12. Western Access: (Super Fun Happy Wall, etc) Continue straight down hill to a large flat rock platform. (Tape used to marks most of the trail but if in doubt just follow the cliff line until you come across the access gully). A small cairn marks the track on the right of the platform. Follow down for 100m till you reach some fixed ropes and rungs. The walk in to this access gully takes approx 20 mins from the car.

1.5.1. Gulp Road 156 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.248700, -34.707203

1.5.2. The Lost Valley 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.233843, -34.703500

Description:© (rodw)

Another area in the 'Wingello' area under development. See map for directions, there is plenty of scope for hard rout at Section 8.

Section 8 has several steep walls on excellent rock with huge pontential.

Walk in is about 15mins to C-section and 20mins to Section 8. Doesnt get hit as bad from sun as main wingello crag.

1.5.3. Frosty Hollow 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.264490, -34.712418

Description:

Its secret

1.6. Tallong 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.095922, -34.748681

1.6.1. Badgerys Lookout 14 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 150.102547, -34.772520

1.7. The Chopping Block 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.227750, -34.554034

Description:

Small out crop in Belangalo Forest. Nice featured rock, potential for lots more routes scattered in the gorges around the area.

1.7.1. The Chopping Block 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.227641, -34.554048

Description:

Outcrop of rock in the Belanglo State Forest. Good long route on OK rock and small snappy boulderss with face climbing. Routes are described from the far right side of the crag back to the descent path.

Approach:

Located just outside of Berrima. Exit the Hume Highway at the Belanglo sign. (Cross the highway if coming from Sydney, if you hit Sutton Forrest McDonalds you have gone to far.) Drive past the Gordon VC rest area and onto the good dirt track. (Belanglo Road.) Contine through Forest for a cople of KMs. Once you have passed Dailys Road rest area on the right take the second fire trail on the left. If you reach the Cherry Tree Road and the horse farm you have gone one road to far.

Drive down the fire trail, straight across the first junction and the second juction (Dogleg and a bit bumpy.) Join Cherry Tree Firebreak and wind down this for 5 minutes until you reach the turning circle at the end.

Park here and follow the path and cairns down hill for 2 minues until you reach the cliff. Approach through boulders to the right.

1.7.2. First sector 0 routes in Cliff

Description:

2 metres further right facing the crag. Banded on each side by trad.

1.7.3. Main face (second sector) 0 routes in Cliff

Description:

Front face of the block, steep pulling on great rock.

1.8. Binalong 277 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.621686, -34.672601

Unique Features And Strengths:

A nearby boulder field.

Description:

A nearby bouldering area is about all you're likely to find here, but there's some possibility of climbing nearby, particularly a cliff on private property that looks to be ~15 metres high.

1.8.1. Radar Range 277 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 148.583371, -34.636955

Unique Features And Strengths:

Granite, with pockets, that's often overhung! And quite tall to boot. Lots of highballs.

Description:

A lovely hill of boulders capped by a large electricity tower and radar array. The rock type is predominately granite (or volcanic tuff masquerading as granite) but seems to be intermixed with rhyolite of some sort, reaching heights of up to around 10 metres (one slabby cliff section in a valley), with many overhung/undercut problems (very unusual for granite) due to the orientation of the rock against the hill. While sometimes contrived, sit-starts on overhung rock are very possible on many of the problems. There are highballs - feel free to top-rope them, but do not bolt them! The rock varies greatly in quality, from ultra-featured and very hard on the skin to smoother and even, in some cases, pocketed rather than flaky. Be aware that rock on some problems will be friable. It's very difficult to clean the amount of rock in this area and the moss is rampant on one side of the hill. All climbs top out unless otherwise stated.

There are no closed projects here. You may wish to stay off a climb that a friend is trying.

Lastly, a word on grades: they're likely to be wrong one way or another. Feel free to contribute your own views and/or change the grades if you feel strongly about them. You will note that some climbs have a range of grades assigned, which indicates either a climb on the tipping point of two grades or in some cases a number of variants that can make a climb easier or harder. Consensus and personal grades are expected, and climbs will always feel harder or easier depending on style, preference, strength, technique and experience.

Access Issues:

This crag is on private property owned by the Harden Council. The Council has been approached and has advised that anyone entering this area does so completely at their own risk - you break it, you're on your own. There are a number of land users, including people who walk and ride up the hill, and nearby farming land as well as the Air Services Australia owned radar at the top of the hill.

Please be sensitive to potential issues and don't make noise that's going to arouse interest (you will be heard for a long distance). Don't expect to always be alone. Please note the ethics - they are there for good reasons and it's all about keeping this crag open, not styles of climbing.

Do not approach the radar array please. For any reason. Be sure to close the gate. Every time. Don't expect someone to close it behind you, you may let some cattle in or out in the meanwhile. Please stay away from the very obviously fenced farmer's land. There's enough boulders to climb without venturing over there.

Approach:

The area is a quick 2-3 minute drive from Binalong, heading out the Harden side of the town. There are two parking options:

  1. Continue on for 1.8kms out of the town until you see a right turn t-intersection onto dirt road - Bobbara Road. Continue along the dirt road until you get to the gate and head from there up the hill. You can park at several spots along the road. The boulders are a matter of metres from parking.

  2. Drive on a bit further along Burley Griffin Way and the main road splits off into an old, disused road right below the hill. The boulders are then 15 minutes from the car, uphill.

The hill itself can be quite steep at spots, with quite a lot of potholes. Bobbara road is occasionally quite pitted as well, but generally no problems with a 2WD.

Where To Stay:

You could stay at the nearby hotel in Binalong.

Ethic:

NO BOLTING AT ALL - not even for setting up top ropes or cleaning, thanks. Use some gear or sling a nearby boulder.

NO CHIPPING OR COMFORTISING - there are WAY MORE than enough problems here! However, please do make the effort to clean off flakes that are likely to go, and moss.

KEEP THE BOULDERS CLEAN - this means removing tick marks and cleaning off excess chalk if need be. Vinegar is great for removing chalk and the granite won't be affected if you need to give something a scrub.

Finally, please follow the naming conventions. Climbs have been named in a satirical fashion. If you make a first ascent - and there's every likelihood you will, given the massive boulder field - then go ahead and have a go at something that amuses or annoys you. Do not number your climb. Give it a frickin' name. Feel free to explain what the name means in the description.

Variants and eliminates welcome. It is bouldering, after all.

History:

While it is difficult to know whether any area has been climbed at before, the first concerted efforts towards development were made after David Nott identified the area in late 2011. After destroying parts of his shoulder he returned with friends in 2012 to try and make a dent in the endless boulder field...

1.8.2. The Cliff 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

Rhyolite climbing, with a lovely lake behind to take a dip in. But... It's a quarry.

Description:

Yeah, but really, don't swim in the lake unless you want to die. A set of cliffs really, spanning two sides of an old quarry (that's your first clue to quality), with the lovely added ambience of a crashed burnt out car at the bottom to add to the scenery. Enough rock to take a few lines, though unfortunately one side is almost constantly in the shade and has more moss than anyone may have time to remove it! If you want a quick run up a few lines of dubious quality after sampling the "stellar" bouldering nearby, then this is the place.

Access Issues:

Try and keep your visits discreet please. 1080 poison is used nearby. Try not to ingest plants that have been poisoned, it will make you sick and bodies so ruin the ambience.

Approach:

You can park right in front of the quarry, through a gate marked with a sign about 1080 poison. Whatever you do, don't try and access the cliff from the top unless you're on a rope, it's dirt all the way to the edge.

Where To Stay:

Heck, why not hole up at the nearby hotel in Binalong - sure to be a great sleep! You can grab some eats from the Black Swan, which also provides home-style pies.

Ethic:

Bolts must be camouflaged please.

History:

As with any patch of rock, it's hard to say whether it's been visited before. Certainly efforts towards development haven't been undertaken previously, which is amazing given the obvious quality of the climbing.

1.9. Mt Alexandra 129 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.455956, -34.442432

Description:

A great crag in Mittagong, an hour and twenty minutes drive from Sydney and a good change from Nowra. Climbs are mostly sports with the odd trad line thrown in. Faces north west so can get a bit hot during summer, but because of the altitude tends to stay cooler than Nowra.

Approach:© (bundybear)

To get to Mt. Alexandra from Sydney follow the Hume 'Highway' until it is possible to turn off into Mittagong.

Follow the road into Mittagong. Once you pass the Information Center on your L take the next R just past the petrol station. Take the next L then turn R into 'Victoria' St. Follow this as it climbs steeply up until its end in a dirt carpark, park here. Walk towards the rock cutting past the obvious overhanging bouldering area on your R (Sico wall) turn L down hill and pass another bouldering area (Garth's gallery) turn downhill again and follow the track to the base of the cliffs.

1.9.1. The First Cave 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport
Description:

For a long time this sported only one route - Los Hermanos de la Denitente. Then this cave was discovered by Graeme Hill and Mark Woodard and several stiff sporty routes in the low to mid 20s where added. More recently, Simon Vaughan and Gavin Murray have added a couple more routes. Los Hermanos de la Denitente and Biafra can be attempted in the pouring rain.

1.9.2. Between the First Cave and the Vox Populi wall 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:© (bundybear)

This is the very prominent 85° wall with a small overlap near the top. The first two routes 'Trollberg' and Pinocheo's nose aren't actually on this wall but to the R.

1.9.3. Vox Populi Wall 11 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Unique Features And Strengths:

Perfect rock. Often the starting point for newbies.

Description:

This is the very prominent 85° wall with a small overlap near the top.

Routes are very densely packed but high quality and varied. You can quite easily spend a full day doing great routes without moving more than 10 metres.

Approach:

Walk 2 mins past the first cave area.

1.9.4. Central Area 40 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Description:

This is the area centered around the obvious high, orange corner crack around the corner from Vox Populi Wall. There are a number of routes in the upper tier above this area that can be accessed by climbing the rebolted Garth Miller 14, "Open to Public Srutiny"

1.9.5. The Boulder 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Unknown and Sport
Description:© (bundybear)

Downhill from SA you can glimpse a boulder through the trees. There are only three average climbs on it. They are all junk so some1 else can update the database.

1.9.6. The Alcove 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

Small and broken walls before you reach the Big Cave area. fun low grade and short routes. Lots of moss and a little bit of bad rock so take care.

1.9.7. The Main Cave 30 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad
Description:© (bundybear)

The obvious massive cave with the high rooves. The routes on the right side of the cave on the buttress are newly rebolted with rings and are all very good. There is awesome pumpy roof climbing in the main cave.

1.9.8. Beyond the Cave 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

1.10. Area 51 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.458920, -34.439819

Description:© (bundybear)

Useful Info: Area 51, also known as Groom Lake, is a secret military facility about 90 miles north of Las Vegas. The number refers to a 6-by-10-mile block of land, at the center of which is a large air base the government will not discuss. The site was selected in the mid-1950s for testing of the U-2 spyplane, due to its remoteness, proximity to existing facilities and presence of a dry lake bed for landings. Groom Lake is America's traditional testing ground for "black budget" aircraft before they are publicly acknowledged. The facility and surrounding areas are also associated -- with varying levels of credibility -- with UFO and conspiracy stories. In 1989, Bob Lazar claimed on a Las Vegas television station that he had worked with alien spacecraft at Papoose Lake, south of Area 51. Since then, "Area 51" has become a popular symbol for the alleged U.S. Government UFO cover-up.

Routes are described right to left as you approach the crag.

Approach:© (bundybear)

Park at the Gym/Swimming Pool Carpark.

Head straight up the hill on foot, passing the gym until you reach the fire access road (about 20 metres past the gym). There is a sign calling it the RED Track.

Follow this road down hill as it runs beside the Nattai River (looks more like a creek). After four or five minutes you should see a wooden post painted white on the bottom and red on top on the left side of the fire access road.

Walk 108 steps past this and then turn right off the road into bush down towards the river. Look for yellow tape on trees and cairns to guide the way.

Cross river easily and walk up steep hill veering gradually left as you go. Head up towards the cliffs at the top (about three to five minutes).

When you get to the cliff turn left and look for the ring bolts about five to ten metres along cliff. The first climb you come to is 'Butch'. This is a new crag so expect some loose rock for a while.

1.11. Mt Gibraltar 20 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.431552, -34.466768

1.11.1. Northern end 5 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.427691, -34.461965

Description:

Climbers Left. To walk down the Northern Descent, go north along the rim track for about 80m to the end of the rock shelf, then head down and left, there is a big boulder above "Punks on the Gib", the gully is just to the left of it. The gully between this buttress and the slabs is too scary to descend (and a bit grim to climb up) To get out, walk up the Northern Descent.

1.11.2. Main Wall 14 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.427139, -34.462281

Description:

Located directly below Mount Jellore lookout. Main wall hosts all of the fully bolted routes at Mount Gibraltar, and the highest concentration of classics at the crag. The rap below Jellore lookout deposits you here.

1.11.3. Slab Walls 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

Slab buttresses to climbers left of the main wall.

Approach:

Best to abseil in as per the main wall and walk around.

Descent Notes:

Best to abseil in as per the main wall and walk around.

1.12. Hillbilly Highway Walls 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.205205, -34.340454

Unique Features And Strengths:

Amphitheatre of scallops, scoops and flutings 30 metres in height and with a seductive steepness

Description:

Small crag with limited development but potential for loads of quality long hard routes. Some previous development in the area.

Access Issues:

As with all local crags. Park well, keep clean and quiet.

Approach:

2 minute walk in. Close to the coffee shops of Berrima.

Ethic:

Bolted crag.

1.12.1. Left hand wall. 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.204813, -34.340347

Description:

Shorter wall on the left hand side of the crag. Steep with fine features. Upper ledge area to be developed (maybe!)

Approach:

Up hill, turn left.

1.12.2. Main Wall - Central Flutings. 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.205111, -34.340421

Description:

Big wall. Flutings and pillars. Orange.

Approach:

Straight up the hill.

1.12.3. Right hand wall. 1 route in Sector

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.205605, -34.340657

Description:

Shorter, harder.

Approach:

Up the hill, turn right.

1.13. Perpendicular Rock 35 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 150.097235, -34.310066

Description:

A big bluff of diorite looming over the Wollondilly river valley, this unique and obscure crag is guaranteed to provide adventure.

The Sydney Rockies online guide can be found here: http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/confluence/display/nswrock/Wollondilly

Access Issues:

On private property. Permission to climb was apparently granted by the landowners in 1998. The block the crag is located on is completely undeveloped, and you almost certainly will not run into a soul.

Approach:

Wombeyan Caves Road, then a big slog up the hill through the bush and up the talus.

Where To Stay:

Camping in the Wollondilly valley is described in the guide. If you're driving down from Sydney the night before, the Wollondilly Lookout, on your right a short while after you go through the old sandstone tunnel, is a good but exposed bivy spot.

Ethic:

Purely trad. Not a single bolt here.

1.14. The Loony Bin 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.502451, -34.682571

Unique Features And Strengths:

Great rock. All the starts are hard, most routes have a roof or two.

Description:

12 metre high wall capped with a roof in most places. Vertical to steep routes on beautiful rock. Routes described left to right.

Access Issues:

National park land so take care with new routes. Park at the 2nd Shellhaven sign as you leave Fitzroy Fall.

Approach:

Walk up the road for two minutes.

Ethic:

Bolts.

1.15. The Sanctuary 15 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 150.443909, -34.441897

Description:

A collection of cliffs from 10 to 20 metres in height overlooking a picturesque valley. Near Mittangong, details TBA

1.15.1. Hobo's Hangout 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unique Features And Strengths:

A couple of great routes on good rock make a mornings visit worthwhile.

Description:

Collection of routes scattered off the path betwenn Mittagong and the Hume Highway.

Access Issues:

From Lake Alexandra walk 15 minutes down the path to the left. Once in the valley floor look right up the hill and you will spot the cliffs. The large crack at the top of the incline is the centre of Dad's Crag.

Approach:

20 metres before reaching Dad's Crag, hike uphill for 5 minutes just before the path rises from the valley floor.

1.15.2. Dad's Crag 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
Description:

First area developed. Large Hobo cave with short overhung routes on hard Mt Alex rock.

Access Issues:

Directly oppersite the very large boulder in the river. Look up right on the hill side and you will see the crack of "Ä Family Affair."

1.16. To be deleted 0 routes in Area