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10 routes as aid in Southern Tablelands Back to index

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Showing all 10 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Bungonia Gorge North Wall - Main
21 AID:A1 Galactic Wanderer

Good. If only the corner were 10 times as long.

Start: Start as for 'Strangeness and Charm'.

  1. 40m (19) Up Strangeness to ledge and tree, follow it leftwards a few metres to scoop with wires. 'Galactic Wanderer' departs Strangeness here, and trends up and right past a bolt to a double bolt belay.

  2. 20m (25) (Or 21M1) Up with care to a bolt at 8m, then slightly left to the overlap and more bolts. Either aid up and left or pull impossible looking moves to the base of the dihedral (the last bolt is hidden behind a bush). Bridge up the corner (wires) to the belay.

  3. 50m (21) With care up and right to a bolt, over a terrifyingly poised and dangerous flake. Up past another two bolts and trend leftwards to the belay.

  4. 50m (20) Continue a leftward trend aiming for the protruding grass tree above.

FA: Pitches 1, 2: Giles Bradbury, Greg Moore. Pitches 3, 4: John Fantini & Matt Madin, 1985

Aid 160m, 4
21 AID:A1 Chicken Head Row

The overhanging line.

  1. 20m (25) Up past the overhanging block (crux) to gain the tree belay above.

  2. 25m (20) Up the wall past a bolt and a series of chicken heads to hanging double bolt belay.

FFA: Richard Watts

FA: John Fantini & Dave Magregor, 1989

Aid 45m, 2
22 AID:A1 Coal Sack
  1. 40m (22) As for Morgan Mortimer to the stance on top of a small block.

  2. 40m (21) Gain the traverse weakness out right and continue until forced to drop down to the big ledge and tree to belay.

  3. 40m (22) Start right of the tree. Up on small holds for a few metres before heading left a short way. Then up and right to the belay.

  4. 40m (21) (21M1) Straight up on pockets before going to aid for 5 moves because of calcified rock. Continue up over chicken heads to thread belay.

  5. 35m (21) Continue up groove and flake system then horizontally right to sapling. Follow the weakness upwards before being forced to move left around an awkward groove. Hanging stance on the left with rap anchor.

FA: John Fantini & Dave Magregor, 1985

Aid 200m, 5
23 AID:A1 Red Shift

Connects 'Jewel Box' to 'Coal Sack'.

  1. 42m (23) Up 'Jewel Box' to hanging belay in large scoop just below the cave.

  2. 50m (22) Traverse leftwards until the holds runout and you are forced to do a tension traverse to gain more holds and join the 3rd pitch of 'Coal Sack'.

  3. 40m (21) (21M1) Same as 'Coal Sack' pitch 4.

  4. 35m (21) Same as 'Coal Sack' pitch 5.

FA: John Fantini & Matt Madin, 1985

Aid 170m, 4
29 AID:A1 Hyperspace

Start: Start 6m right of 'Jewel Box'.

  1. 35m (29) Excellent sustained climbing on bolts to the little cave above with a fixed anchor.

  2. 25m (21) (21M1) Straight up the groove past many bolts to a belay underneath the roof.

  3. 40m (22) (22M1) Aid through the roof to wall above, then move right to flake. Up through the overlap then left and up to a niche and bolt belay.

  4. 25m (19) Move left and up to the buttress above on beautiful rock. The route finishes at the bottom of the impossible looking buttress. Bolts to rap off.

FFA: Zac Vertrees

FA: John Fantini (uncertain - pre 1996?), 1990

Aid 130m, 4
26 AID:A1 Olympus Mons

Has this had a second ascent? Covers mind boggling terrain.

Takes all the orange overhanging corners at the downstream end of the north wall. All belays are on bolts.

  1. 40m (26) Start at the overhanging crack/roof and cruise through to the wall and cave above. Out over the cave lip and trend diagonally right to a bolt belay.

  2. 40m (21M1) Surmount overlap and traverse left. Aid up bolts over another overlap, ho-hum, to finish up a crack and the next niche belay.

  3. 30m (22) Crack and slab above and move right and up a steep little buttress to gain the belay.

  4. 40m (23) Step right and over the bulge to gain the big corner. Continue up to the 3 bolts which traverse right across a little orange face to the lip of the overhang. Now up the crack to the belay.

  5. 30m (21) Up the orange rock to a bolt. Traverse left at the line to gain a steep groove and bulge which leads to a belay ledge.

  6. 40m (22) This pitch is on beautiful grey slabby rock. Start in the corner and take a leftwards sloping crack to gain the vertical groove which leads to easier ground and trees.

FFA: pitch 1, Rolando Archer, pitch 3, 4, Andy Richardson & lee cossey

FA: John Fantini & Keith Bell, 1991

Aid 220m, 6
Bungonia Gorge South Wall - Main
20 M1 AID:A1 Red Supergiant

An alpine mega classic. Long loose and natural. Finishes at the highest point on the cliff, the Cooee Lookdown. Take plenty of long slings and big friends.

Start: A chipped square marks the start.

  1. 45m (20) Delicate moves up the slab to a series of ledges. Move leftwards into the corner and up it. A steep pull onto the ledge leads to the anchors.

  2. 45m (20) Up 2m, then follow holds leading right. Continue right to a corner in the overlap (wires). Over this (crux) to easier ground and tree. Trend leftwards, through overlap at 6m, then onto belay 8m above.

  3. 50m (16) Left to a corner, up this and through the overlap. Up the ramp to a tree.

  4. 50m (12) Scrub bash up the ramp to a tree.

  5. 45m (13) Deciding when to move right is tricky. Up for 10m. Move right on ledges, over and across some loose big blocks, moving horizontally right. Belay at the top of a block at the foot of the orange rock with some corners above.

  6. 30m (18) Much steeper, but well protected. Step right and up the corner. Over some choss, left a touch then up the next corner to belay.

  7. 50m (20) This pitch wanders, is fairly run out, and has a hard pockety start. Beware rope drag. Up over the bulge and trend right. Weave rightwards to avoid the very steep stuff, then step up and trend horizontally left to the splitter crack. Follow this corner up, then step right onto the ramp and set up belay in the cave.

  8. 50m (17 M1) (17A1) Scramble rightwards past a large stalactite to the end of the ramp. Drop down and right to a ledge at the base of the corner with the bolt in it. Aid past the bolt to a high #4 friend. This can be freed at grade 23. Pull onto easy ground and up this to a big overhang with large pockets. Move delicately up and rightwards onto the wall. Go up and over right to a #4 tube chock in a neat pocket. Now up the corner to the old lookout.

FA: John Fantini & Dave Magregor, 1985

Aid 370m, 8
18 AID:A1 Old and Grey

(18M1). "See topo" they said......this route isn't shown on The Crag topo! Details unsure, however a likely situation is that it shares the start of Red Heat before traversing right, sharing the end of the first pitch of Evolution. Keep going past Evolution's belay to to bolted belay 10m right on the same ledge (shared with Jump Master and 'The Bridge to Total Freedom'). Up the next pitch and a half of Reason for Man (passing a couple of bolts), before traversing left back across 'The Bridge'[724942089] and into Red Heat for a pitch or so to gain the large 'Evolution cave'. 'Old and Grey' then traverses left a pitch to join Scorpion to the top of the wall. Note that Old and Grey predates all the other routes on this wall. A great effort for the time, but unlikely to appeal to anyone sane these days.

FA: Ian Brown & Don Fletcher, 1977

Aid 300m
Bungonia Gorge South Wall - Phantom Menace Wall
24 AID:A1 Celestial Mechanics

Start: Start from the left end of Big Greenie. Takes the corner and arête.

  1. 20m (21) From a stance on a slab cruise up the ramp to a bolt. Some slippery moves past this then up to another bolt. Up to the block and ledge with chains at the base of a corner.

  2. 20m (24 M1) (24M1) Up the corner past a couple of bolts to some thin bridging (crux) and wires. Continue up the steepening corner past bolts to an overhang. Pull around this on finger pockets to a double bolt belay.

  3. 25m (23 M1) (23M1) Up the sharp arête past bolts to a rest. Clip a bolt and then move up (crux) and right to easier climbing. Chain belay. Rap down.

FA: Mike Peck, Pete Mills & John Stone (var), 1990

Aid 65m, 3
Wingello Gulp Road Candy & Supa Fun Happy Walls
18 M1 Austri (batman start)
Aid 30m

Showing all 10 routes.