Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Sydney Metropolitan 4,641 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Boulder, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.986010, -33.799653

1.1. Hornsby and the North 558 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.189691, -33.617418

1.1.1. Mt Colah 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown
Description:

Located in Ku-Ring-Gai National Park and climbing here is off limits.

1.1.2. Planet Clare 28 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.1.3. Berowra 82 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.147728, -33.603305

Description:

Nice walls, some awesome climbing on top rock - about 3 mins walk to face from end of road. Nice open track, easy to find. Gets lots of sun all day. shade early morning and late sunsets. Watch out for brown snakes, particularly in summer. They've even been known to rest in pocket holds on some climbs. Don't forget to take bolt plates, certain climbs still require them.

Approach:

Drive to the end of Wideview Rd. Small, well defined track off to the NW will take you down to the top of the crag, and turn right (N) and follow top of crag along all the way to end. Easy walk down will bring you out at Taylor Made.

Alternatively, to access south end of crag (e.g. Bullet Hole Wall), follow the bike track opposite No. 90 and follow the track off to the right. Follow to a ramp/scramble down to bring you out at Boundary Rider and Wall Thing on your right.

History:

A Berowra specific climbing guide can be found here http://www.cragx.org/Berowraguide.pdf . However new roots have been set and certain roots have been abandoned or cut off.

1.1.4. Crosslands 18 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 151.105576, -33.628504

Description:

This area is on private land, so if you are climbing keep a low profile and take your rubbish with you. Small crag with some good slabs, a few easy sport routes and some interesting Trad lines. A few great climbs for beginners learning to sport climb.

Access Issues:

This area is owned by Crosslands Youth and Convention Centre, so you should consider contacting them before climbing there. http://www.crosslands.org.au/contact-us/

Approach:

Head down Crosslands Rd (off Galston Rd). Head along the dirt road and park before the gates that head down to the Conference Centre. If you start going down a steep windy road you have gone too far. Head north along the fire trail on the ridge top then take the right hand trail after 400m. Continue along to cliff top 250m. Descend at either end.

1.1.5. du Faur walls 30 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 151.095657, -33.652954

Description:© (rodw)

New crag under development in NW sydney

Approach:© (rodw)

Access via Montview Rd: Drive down Montview Rd, Hornsby Heights then McKay Rd. Park in cul-de-sac at the end of McKay Rd (don't go down The Crescent). Access the fire trail on the left side of the cul-de-sac and walk down the fire trail for what feels like days (approx 15min walk), vearing right at the start, until you reach a rock outcrop. Walk over the outcrop and straight after the outcrop take a small track to the right, marked with a carn (note: there is a carn trail that continues straight/left after the outcrop which will lead you to the Benowie track, I take it that this is the route you would take if you were coming from the Benowie track). Continue following foot trail which is not very clear and branches off many times but keep an eye out for carns and follow them to the smaller of the two oval boulders. Go over this boulder and continue to follow the carns as you head down hill towards the access gully. A Y-shaped eucalyptus tree and a carn on top of a wall mark the access gully. Try and get to the base of the eucalyptus tree. From there don't try and go straight down, rather, keep going along the cliff and down a much easier decent which will get you to Suffragette wall.

1.1.6. Mt Ku-ring-gai 138 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.123960, -33.627035

Description:

The area was rediscovered by Rod Wills in late 2003 although a couple of manky carrots were found at a couple of locations on Motocross wall. Rod and his cousin Vanessa started development at Fossil wall and moved north. The area has been set up well with few scary clips and would suit budding leaders. There are also enough harder routes to keep climbers entertained and potential for new lines.

Drive to the end of Beaumont Road, Mount Kuring-gai and park. See location map for various wall locations.

Midges!!! Make sure you pack your insect repellent otherwise you will levae looking like you have chicken pox. The Midge season is from November to April but you may find them outside these times.

Approach:

To get to the crags Gundah Ridge track is the main route in. Cairns have been setup along the track to mark where to turn off. However people have been knocking the cairns over, so beware.

1.1.7. Ku-ring-gai Chase 174 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.224129, -33.641243

1.1.8. Thornliegh 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

Needs to be deleted Don't bother

1.1.9. Eagle Rock 47 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 151.235151, -33.566341

1.1.10. The Drive In 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 151.196430, -33.547240

Description:

This wall is so close to the road you can belay out of the boot! It is all ring bolted sport climbs situated inbetween the F3 freeway and the old pacific hwy near broklyn. If you like technical slabs and the occasionlal steep route this is it. Can get some run off and dust on the slabs.

Access Issues:

From the Old pacific hwy/Brooklyn Road intersection, head south on the Hwy for 400m and you should be able to see the walls on the western side of the road.

Approach:

Open door and walk 5.2m. Climbs described left to right.

1.1.11. Flat Rock 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 151.141250, -33.573299

1.1.12. Jerusalem Bay 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Deep Water

Long/Lat: 151.195300, -33.590943

1.1.13. Galston Gorge 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown
Description:

The old Galston Gorge Crag offered some good routes but the increased traffic in the area makes belaying near the road a worry. The valley how ever offers a few opportunities for some nice climbing.

1.2. Sutherland 732 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.039454, -34.043832

Description:

Most of the climbing can be found on the rim of the hills, overlooking the Woronora River and Georges Rivers. The rock is the usual Sydney sandstone but the Cathedral has a a weird type of stone that is a refreshing change from the norm.

1.2.1. Soon To Come 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

Another bouldering crag being developed by Brendon Flanagan.

Details will be posted once development is completed.

History:

This crag was offically developed by Brendon Flanagan during the Great Bouldering Boom.

Chalk Up, climb on and live the dream!

1.2.2. Bald Face Point 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad and Sport
Description:© (nmonteith)

Possibly the worst crag in Sydney. A loose uninviting quarry with an assortment of rubbish at the base. In 'Melbourne' it would be popular - but in Sydney it should be forgotten.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Bald Face Point Reserve at the southern end of Stuart St in Blakehurst. The cliff is directly below the lookout. Scramble down the left side.

1.2.3. Oatley Park 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown
Description:© (nmonteith)

Very pleasant easy trad climbing in a scenic location perched above the Georges River. An area that has a lot of rock, but unfortunately not a lot that is climbable.

To get to the crag, find 'Oatley Park' in the street directory, and follow the one way circuit (Christensen Drive) until you find Webster 'Lookout' (signposted). All of the listed routes are located below this lookout, and have top rope bolts.

All routes described left to right (facing the cliff).

1.2.4. Lugarno 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport
Description:© (nmonteith)

Absolute roadside cragging! A generally slabby and unfashionable cliff with a fair selection of mid to hard grade routes. Many of these routes were heavily chipped in the heady days of the 80s. Most routes are now covered in dirt and lichen and the bolts are of very questionable quality. The entire cliff needs a refresh. Be VERY CAREFUL not to drop rocks onto the road which is literally centimeters from the crag.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

To get to the crag, drive south down Forest Rd, 'Lugarno', and stop about 200m from its end. The cliff is located on the right hand side of the road (watch out for cars).

1.2.5. Alford's Point 42 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 151.027883, -33.986725

Description:

This area was known as a Scout abseiling hangout for many years. Because of its weird access off the freeway it avoided the crowds for years. In the early 1990's the area was visited by Chris Wallace, Dave Barnes and the growing crowd from the new local gym at the time, The Rocknasium. This is when many of the established routes were done. A day underneath the high frquency wires, on a cliff a little larger then the normal shire stone, with ten second access from your car,makes for a good day out.

Approach:

The crag is located on the eastern side of Alford's Point Rd, south of the Alford's Point Bridge. The new bridge and road works have changed access. Park in Maxwell Close and walk back (north) along the bike path along Alford's Point Rd for a couple of hundred meters until you see a thin concrete pillar 1m high in the bush with white and blue stickers, and extensive views out east over the river. The crag is below. There is an easy scramble down to the base at the southern end of the cliff (right hand, facing river). Sometimes there is a hermit living in the cave near "Green Frogs and Liver", he is not too scary so say hello! The crag is located within Georges River National Park.

1.2.6. Alfords Point Bouldering 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.027010, -33.979303

Description:© (secretary)

A great little overhang made of hard Sydney sandstone plus a couple of slabs in a nice bushland setting overlooking the Woronora River. 'Problems' here are long, pumpy with some interesting top outs, power endurance fitness required here. Home of 'Love Gun' (V10) - one of the best roof problems in Sydney. Recently featured on the bouldering DVD 24-8. The crag gets the morning shade.

Approach:© (secretary)

Location: Find Stringybark Place in Alford's Point, and after about 50m park on the left near a group of boulders. Go down the hill with this feature on the left, after about 25m find a faint track that goes left and down, another 35m and a forked tree at a rough cliff line appears, go left along the cliff line and the sexy cave will appear.

1.2.7. Picnic Point 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 151.008550, -33.980648

Description:

Lots of top rope potential, with many cliff top anchor points. There are a few sport routes bolted, however i would recommend checking all bolts before use. Many are old carrots that have seen better days.

Approach:

Park near the speed camera on Henry Lawson Drive. Cross onto the southern side of the road and walk 50m East. A series of tracks should be visible in the scrub near the road. These tracks all lead to the cliff top. There are 2 or 3 points along the face that can be scrambled down to the cliff base.

1.2.8. Lomandra Place Cave 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 151.018877, -33.986448

Description:

An impressive cave with many ultra hard projects, a couple of mid grade sport routes and one trad roof crack. The cliff faces south-west and is in the shade for almost all of the day.

Approach:

Drive to #6 Lomandra Place, Alfords Point. Park on grassy area next to bush. Walk downhill through bush in a south-western direction following rock cairns for 120m to top of cliff. It is a bit hard to spot as it's actually quite short but mega overhung. About 5 minutes walk from the carpark.

Descent Notes:

Lower-offs or backjump.

History:

Originally developed by Cameron Taylor in 2009, he left one route and a slew of impossible looking unfinished projects. The crag reinvigorated by Monty in 2014.

1.2.9. Illawong 23 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad
Description:

This has to be one of the easiest accessed cliffs in Sydney. A dozen very doable and well protected routes for the after work, suburban fix. Skin is a must do, if you can do it?

Approach:© (Zack)

Drive about two thirds of the way down Redman Ave in 'Illawong'. Park opposite number 31. The cliff is located about 10m directly off the road, with descents at either end of the cliff.

1.2.10. The Cathedral Woronora 95 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.030896, -34.023837

Description:© (bundybear)

The Cathedral just off the banks of the Woronora River in the heart of the Shire. It's is possibly the highest crag in Sydney town with a height of 30m in some sections, with great rock its hard to think why the crag does not get more visitors. This crag has something for everyone from 3star 28's, great sporty little 16s, and possibly the hardest trad climb in NSW.

Approach:© (bundybear)

Maybe the old access, was why not too many dudes visited this crag. With the construction of the new Bangor bypass things have now changed. Instead of the 30min walk along the river, there is now a 5 min walk down a hill to the top of crag, and then a short scramble around to the right (facing the river) to the base of the cliff. This track is still quite new and does not have escalators installed so may be a little rough for the next few months.

'The Cathedral' can now be accessed from Shackel road, Bangor. If coming from Sutherland, drive over the big new bridge over the river, then take the next left into Akuna (as for 'Bangor West' crag), follow this until it turns in to Menai Rd, turn left again into Pyree street, follow this until you are at Bangor school, then left again in Shackel Rd - this goes under the new bypass. Park at the dead end (there is not a parking station installed here so plz try and be nice to the locals). Now follow the track (marked with red and white tags) down the hill to the crag.

Some people may perfer the original access, this involves a longer but easier (flatter) walk along the river.

"

To get to the crag, park in Prince Edward Park in Woronora (or walk down the hill from Sutherland railway station). Cross the footbridge, turn left and follow the track along the river for about 1km. Although you walk past the right hand slabs first, they aren't as obvious as the main wall, which looms above the track about 20m to the right. Bash up through the jungle to the base of the crag. Estimated walking time: 30 min"

1.2.11. Bangor West 76 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.034596, -34.024082

Description:© (secretary)

Popular sandstone crags that remain in the shade until late afternoon. The main crag is shorter easier routes, whilst 'Lost World' is longer and harder.

Approach:© (secretary)

Park towards the cul de sac end of Arunta Close. There is a path between no 11 and 12. The descent is almost straight ahead, slightly to the right. Once you are on rock it pretty much heads right angles to the left.

1.2.12. Bangor Blocs 14 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.046024, -34.018286

Description:

Two good blocs overlooking the traffic on the Woronora Bridge

Approach:

Park at the East end of Menai Rd in Bangor, walk down the driveway at the north side and downhill 30m. The driveway continues staright down hill, and a dirt track veers right. Take this right for 30m then left left and up the hill. 4wd or walk for 3 minutes to power pylon. The track veers back south, go for 60m to a small cairn and bash down the hill 50m to Boulder A. Boulder B is 40m R of Boulder A. http://www.thecrag.com/photo/BlocMap.jpg

History:

Develped by Cam

1.2.13. Bonnet Bay 28 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 151.050332, -34.012026

Description:© (secretary)

Great sport climbing and one of the more popular spots in The Shire. Has possibly the best 24 and 27 sport route in Sydney. Great spot for the kids, with nice level grassy area and only minutes from the car. Can be muggy and mosquito ridden in summer. There has been much rebolting in recent years so most climbs are super safe. Keep your noise down as houses are right below the crag.

Approach:© (secretary)

Park just before the intersection of 188 Washington Drive and Harrison Avenue in 'Bonnet Bay'. Walk back up Washington Road for 40m past the last house to find a track entering bush on the right. Hike up this for 20 seconds to arrive at the climbing. This track is located directly opposite the popular boat ramp. Climbs are named from LEFT to RIGHT as you face the Cliff.

1.2.14. Bonnet Bay (Bouldering) 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.050386, -34.012741

1.2.15. Janali 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

This crag has been played on in the 1990's but does not recieve traffic as there is not much on offer. A half a dozen micro routes and maybe a little bouldering is on offer. The crag gets a good dose of sun and access is a breeze. See the Sun, Surf & Sandstone Sydney Guide for futher beta.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Park at end of Taft Place in Jannali and walk down fire trail next to giant water pipe for 20m. Scramble down right and hook back under the scrappy cliff line to arrive at 'Mystery Climb'. Routes are listed illogically from the left to right.

1.2.16. The School (Bouldering) 11 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.059865, -34.018788

Description:

Small but well-featured bouldering with excellent sub-V5 problems in peaceful bush land. Rock is heavily featured with routes mostly involving long moves between slopers or jugs. Nice flat landing and clean topouts mean that no mat is required. A major cleanup of trash was done here - so if you see any rubbish left by others please take it out with you.

Approach:

It's located just behind the Yamaha Music School off Sutherland Road, at the western end of Louise St, Janalli. Walk in their entrance gate and take a small track on the right just before the first building. Hook around behind these buildings and follow small track away from main road through bush along fence line until track takes an obvious downhill step. The bouldering is visible from here on left about 50m away.

1.2.17. Jannali Reserve 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.056557, -34.018128

Description:

Nice cool spot for an summer arvo session. Faces east and catches the breeze. Great place for beginners with some nice high warm ups with good landings.

Approach:

Park at the Bonnet Bay sign on Tudar Road and walk about 400m into the bush.

1.2.18. Barden Ridge 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

Barden Ridge is another Shire Suburban crag fest with a dozen middle grade micro routes. This crag has one one minute access from your car and great views. Watch out for snakes in summer. This joint has been climbed on for many years and I first visited in 1987. Many routes were bolted by Barnesy but they have probably already been done, just as the all those recent routes on the Right end.

Approach:© (secretary)

To get there, drive south along Old 'Illawarra' Road until it becomes Thomas Mitchell Drive. Follow this along the top of the ridge until it starts to drop down and curve around to the left. Park at number 37 or 39 - the crag is located just across the road, about 15m into the bush. The best descent is to the right (facing out), just to the left of the rough stone block retaining wall. This brings you down to the left hand end of the crag (facing the cliff).

1.2.19. Trackside 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 151.004872, -34.041189

Description:

Small steep crag right next to the Old Illawara fire trail that heads down to the popular Needles swimming spot on the Woronora River. Not a whole lot of potential here but the rock quality is great and the access is super easy. The cliff gets afternoon sun but is short enough that trees give it dappled shade. If it gets all too hot continue down the fireroad to one of the best swimming spots in Sydney.

Approach:

5 minutes downhill walk. The crag is located directly below 81 Thomas Mitchel Drive, Barden Ridge but it is a bit of a scramble down and it's best not to alert the Trueman Show residents of our activities. So instead, park down the road at 83 Old Illawarra Rd, and walk into the bush on the major fireroad. At the first intersection take the left road that leads steeply left and downhill. Follow this for about 100m until a small cliff appears on the left hand side of the track. Look for orange overhang facing north and bolts. Scramble up 10m to base of crag.

Descent Notes:

All routes have lower-offs.

1.2.20. Lucas Heights 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 151.001984, -34.040747

Unique Features And Strengths:

Steep sport climbing in the mid grades and with all day shade.

Description:

An unusually substantial cliff overlooking the scenic Woronora River set amongst lush forest and within critical meltdown distance of Australia's only nuclear reactor.. The routes generally climb gorgeous steep water worn orange rock up to 20m in length. Most routes are now well bolted with ringbolts & lower-off anchors (2014). It is a good destination during summer since it faces south. Sections of the cliff seep after heavy rain and during winter when it gets no direct sun.

Access Issues:

Trail bikers are a bit of a menace along the dirt tracks above the cliff. Not only do they tear past and make a racket, they also love to chuck their lunch rubbish (and old bikes!) off the top of the cliff, thus the base of the cliff is a bit of a dump. Bring mosquito repellant. Some very angry Peregrine Falcons are in residence during spring.

Approach:

To get to the crag, drive to corner of David Road and Old Illawarra Road in Bardens Ridge. Drive south down Old Illawara Road for 100m and park just before sharp left turn at bushland. Follow a large flat firetrail west taking the right hand most fire trail along the ridge top past two old quarries. At the second major quarry leave the main trail and scramble down left towards the river - look for bit of old engine block marking the top of the descent track. Trend down and right under the scrappy cliff following a vague trail until the real cliff finally emerges from the undergrowth. Climbs described right to left (east to west), facing the cliff.

Ethic:

Everything of worth at this crag is sport-bolted.

History:

Dave Barnes and Chris Wallace in the 90s, Neil Monteith in the 2010s

1.2.21. Needles Causeway 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 151.005899, -34.046878

Description:

Small section of cliff literally overhanging the dirt road leading south from the causeway at the popular swimming spot of the Needles. Faces north so gets all day sun.

Approach:

You can approach the causeway from either the north or south side of the river. The southern method is slightly shorter. Park near 56 Woronora Rd, Engadine and follow gated bitumen road for 10 minutes downhill. The cliff is on the right about 50m before the river. For the northern approach - park at 83 Old Illawarra Rd, Bardens Ridge and follow gated dirt fireroad downhill to the river. Cross the causeway and the cliff is 50m up the continuation of the road on the left.

Descent Notes:

Lower-offs

History:

100 years ago road builders cut their way down this small cliffline to establish the Old Illawara Rd. Then climbers arrived.

1.2.22. Heathcote Weir 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown
Description:

This is the cliff you see crossing the Heathcote Road bridge near the Heathcote exit. It was first climbed on a long time ago (1960's)and a few paint marks are evidence of this. There is a nice smooth 8m orange wall above and behind the main cliff and the routes mentioned form part of these.

1.2.23. Sleaze cave 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.021357, -34.035007

Description:

Two small caves with few problems.

Approach:

Park at the end of Manniken drive, Worronora heights. Walk through fire trail and turn left behind house, turn right after 10 metres then walk diagonally down to the left for 100 metres to the cave.

History:

Luke.W & Grant.S found this place on a dedicated sick day back in 2007.

1.2.24. The Wastelands 73 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.998276, -34.059454

Description:

This crag has some great suburban climbing and Rainbow Wall remains a great place to test your skills. I really like routes on the Vertex but they may need some cleaning these days. My favourite climb here remains, Plummit Earth Eats Worms.

Approach:© (bundybear)

To get there:

  1. Turn off Princes Hwy at Anzac Ave, Engadine.

  2. Continue along Anzac Ave and turn right into Woronora Road

  3. Turn left at Buckle Ave

  4. Continue along into Mountain St

  5. Turn left into Ardua Place and park near the end.

  6. There is a lane way between the houses, walk down this and then head left and decend down the hill

  7. Scamble down the cliff in the corner near big tree and "Year 7 Girl".

1.2.25. The Wok 19 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad
Description:

This crag houses a dozen easy beginner routes you do not have to die for. A pleasant location and a couple of really nice things makes this a good spot for the bumbly.

Approach:© (glenn_9)

located down in royal national park directly in line with cardiff street. cross railway line and head down goarra ridge firetrail, turn left after 100m down firetrail running parralel to railway line, follow this for roughly 200m to find the crag just on left.

1.2.26. Bluebell 26 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 151.002432, -34.079551

Description:

A mighty little crag housing some steep Sydney classics. Sandstone, easy access, snakes and ladders, there is much here to keep a smile on your dile. The cliff was descovered by Alan Smith but it was Dave Barnes who did the work in the early 1990's. His routes include 'Gate Keeper' (23) the mega classic, 'Ruthless Babe' (22), 'Bitch'n' (23), 'Welcome to the Body Shop' (21), 'Meltdown' (19) and 'Sparky' (16). Other climbers filled in the gaps and what is left is a dozen pumpy numbers. Beware of the summer snakes in the break of Bitch'n and mindfull of the neighbours at the cliff top, it's their backyard.

Approach:© (secretary)

To get there, find 'Bluebell' Rd, Heathcote, and park at the end. Hop the gate onto the fire trail and follow it around to the left (behind the houses). The crag is located directly below these houses - continue walking for 50m until you can scramble down to the base of the cliff on an obvious track.

The cliff faces basically west, so it's perfect on sunny winter's days, but is a bit of an oven during summer. The steepest section tends to seep a bit after rain.

Climbs described south to north (right to left, facing the cliff).

1.2.27. Dickhead's Area - CLOSED 17 routes in Boulder

Summary:
Boulder and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 151.071214, -34.062359

Description:

AREA CLOSED

This area is closed to all climbing and has been for a few years. Please respect this closure and do not climb here. A sign is in place advising of the closure and no climbing is permitted. Plenty of other crags in the shire with awesome problems!

History:

Back in 2000 Luke and Carl & Joe established the bouldering, leaving only the V11+ thing on the far left of the cave (which never got done). There is very old rusty carrots on the climbing cliff which I suspect could have been placed by Mike Law.

1.2.28. Bass and Flinder's Point 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.2.29. The Villas 40 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.050225, -34.025568

Description:© (secretary)

The most extensive of all the Sutherland crags. The jewel in the crown is the Villas cave, however there is some great bouldering on the surrounding cliffline. Crag classics; 'Boobs', 'Burgers', Savage and of course 'Contact' - Australia's first V12.

(Reference-Sydney Bouldering (Peter Balint) & australianbouldering.com (Tim O'Neill)

Approach:© (secretary)

Park at the start of Rata Place, Sutherland, where the big green pipe crosses under the road. Follow the pipe leftwards for about 75m, then drop off right towards the river into the jumbled rocks. After about 15m, you'll be on a vague terrace, head left for 10m for the 'Cops Are Tops Cave', otherwise continue down the dodgy descent for another 30m. The first problems described are about 25m right along the cliff line, next to the exposed pipes. 'The Villas' cave is about 35m in the other direction.

'The Villas' cave gets the shade in the morning.

1.2.30. Prices Cave 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 151.047526, -34.029134

Description:© (bundybear)

As for bouldering crag...

1.2.31. The Fish Boulders 31 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.045957, -34.028254

Description:© (secretary)

A splended array of small cliffs and buttresses right near the Woronora River. Flat landings, nice easy to moderate problems. Fun for the whole family and/or a great place to warm up before hitting the harder crags of the area.

Approach:© (secretary)

Off River road, turn into Prince Edward Park road, follow it along through a small round-a-bout and park in the obvious parking area on the right side of the road. The boulders are just over the grassy mound near the river.

1.2.32. Dead Chinaman's Wall 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.047073, -34.018255

Description:© (bundybear)

If coming from Sutho, cross the big Woronora bridge and take the 1st exit, drive back under the bridge towards the river. Park just b4 the hairpin bend, cross the road at the hairpin, walk past the gate and the 1st boulder will appear. 1 minute access

1.2.33. The Cemetery (Bouldering) 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

1.2.34. Sandshoes (bouldering) 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

1.2.35. Camp Wanawong 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown
Description:

Awesome compact orange sandstone wall, just behind Camp Wanawong. Probably best to walk up the creek from 1st ave.

Access Issues:

Not sure if your allowed to climb here anymore.

1.2.36. The Wing Cave 29 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.001011, -34.014698

1.2.37. Woronora Lookout (bouldering) 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.045605, -34.030847

Unique Features And Strengths:

Extensive collection of highball bouldering or short top-ropes.

Access Issues:

Public land

Approach:

This area is behind the Woronora Cemetery in the suburb of Loftus. Park at junction of First and Second Avenue at deadend. Jump the metal gate and walk along the fence bordering the cemetery. Cross a small creek and continue on for a few hundred metres, ignoring the turn on the left. The track eventually goes up a little rocky hill with a junction at the top. Take the left turn and walk for 100m to lookout over river and park bench. Scramble down and left from the park bench for 50m to crag. It faces west so gets afternoon sun. There is a fair bit of broken glass around - take care.

Ethic:

Bouldering and top-roping only. No lead bolts!

History:

People have been climbing here for decades

1.2.38. Prices Cave (bouldering) 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.047526, -34.029134

1.2.39. Revesby 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.015079, -33.972692

Description:

A crag reflecting the local area; it isn’t the best around but it’s handy, varied and nice enough. The rock is quite rough in places and still needs some traffic to clean it up. The crag is made up of 3 main areas at this stage (and some other bits and pieces), all conveniently located a few metres off a short bush walk through nice suburban bush land. There’s plenty of potential for more problems both here and in the surrounding area. The highlights at this stage are Almost a V8 Holden, Sky Bar and The FJ Holden. There’s also some videos of it on Youtube if you'd like to see what it looks like (just type in Revesby Rocks).

Dan Webster on ACAQ. http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=crag&crag_id=760

Approach:

Located on The River Rd Revesby. 1) Park on the side of the road about 70m south of Prince st and find the beginning of the bush walk on the western side of the road (near a rust-red telegraph pole). Follow this up hill till it intersects a path running across the bottom of a rock band. Turn L. The punch bug area is about 70m after this intersection and the Worker’s Club area about 100m. The FJ Holden area is about another 50m past the Worker’s Club and is obvious. OR 2) Park just outside Bill Delauney Reserve (on The River Rd). Cross the road and take the decent path straight up the hill till it meets the main track. The Worker’s Club area is straight up from where the paths meet.

1.3. North West 695 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.895442, -33.701206

1.3.1. The Fear Factory 125 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.095878, -33.752437

Description:© (Atrax)

Excellent bouldering destination with a reputation for highballs with sketchy landings. In reality, there's a lot of safer stuff here too, including a few Sydney classics.

Useful Info: Please avoid excessive erosion of the access routes and the base of the walls. You don't want the top outs to get any higher, surely? Information largely drawn from Peter Balint's excellent 'Sydney Bouldering' guide. Buy one if you don't have one!

Approach:© (Atrax)

Find Boundary Road in North Epping. At the end of this, past the bowling club, is a turning circle and obvious fire trail. Follow this trail into the bush passing whale rock and continuing the way that you were heading, not down the track on the left. After about five minutes or so you cross the creek. There is an access route here, but better to go from the second creek crossing directly up to emerge in 'The Courtyard'. A little further along is the obvious approach up to the roof-capped 'Sinatra Wall'.

1.3.2. The Balkans 361 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.009370, -33.761778

Description:© (aca_admin)

The Balkans is partly located in the Sydney suburb of Baulkham Hills so it's no wonder that its location was initially mistaken for "Balkan Hills", and the name has stuck. 'The Balkans' is unique in Sydney bouldering in that there is truly something for everyone, from total beginners, to pumpers and power mutants. Very few of the problems are eliminates and they all top out!

Useful Info: 'Excelsior' Park is a popular bush walking area. So far the friendly rangers, bush walkers and local residents seem happy to share it with us.

Approach:© (aca_admin)

The Balkans is located in Bidjigal Reserve, on either side of the Darling Mills Creek in North Western Sydney about 20km from the Sydney CBD. The areas on the western side of the valley (Trenches and Caves) are in the suburb of Baulkham Hills and those on the eastern side of the valley (Frontline and Swampland) are in North Rocks. See Map.

Park in Larra Cr, North Rocks for the Frontline, or Mill Dr, North Rocks for the Swampland, or Ted Horwood Reserve, Baulkham Hills for the Trenches and the Caves.

From the east / city etc … take the M2 west from the CBD and exit at Windsor Rd. Head north on Windsor Rd for about 100m and make a right into Cook St at the second set of lights.

From the west … take the M4 east from Penrith (because you can't turn off the M2 at Windsor Rd) and exit at the Cumberland Hwy. Follow it north until you get to the Old Windsor Rd T-intersection where you make a right onto Briens Rd. Follow Briens Rd for about 1km and turn left onto Windsor Rd at the big intersection. Follow Windsor Rd north for a couple of km until you cross over the M2 and make a right into Cook St at the second set of lights.

Having turned onto Cook St by either of the above methods, after about 500m turn right into Park Rd and then past the left turn taken by Park Rd, and continue on Renown Rd. About 100m along on the left is the carpark for the Trenches and the Caves or continue down the "Big Dipper" and up the other side to Mill Dr and Larra Cres on the left for the Frontline and the Swampland.

By train / bus

From the east / city etc … catch any of the 600 series Westbuses (the yellow, red and black ones) heading for 'Castle Hill' from Central Stn (at Railway Square on George St), Wynyard Stn (on Clarence St), North Sydney Stn (on Blue St) or the Macquarie Centre (near Macquarie Uni). Make sure the bus stops at Barclay Rd because this is where you get off.

From the west … catch any of the 600 series Westbuses (the yellow, red and black ones) heading for the Macquarie Centre or City (via the M2) from Blacktown Stn. Make sure the bus stops at Barclay Rd because this is where you get off.

Having arrived at Barclay Rd bus stop by either of the above methods, walk up the ramps and head west (downhill) along Barclay Rd for about 100m and turn right into Mill Dr and Larra Cres on the left for the Frontline or continue down the "Big Dipper" for the Swampland or up the other side and turn right into the carpark for the Ted Horwood Reserve for the Trenches and the Caves.

1.3.3. The Big Dipper / Swampland 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

1.3.4. Mystery Rocks 58 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.056556, -33.726860

Description:

This crag is also featured in Sydney Rockies, with topos and photos.

Most routes are V0- to V3, but there are some harder ones. Crag hasn't seen much action lately, so it's quite messy. Expect lots of spider webs, moss, and soil. Bring a brush to clean the holds. A lot of the rock is very rough (due to lack of climbers), so your fingers may take a beating.

Approach:

Easiest access is via Beahan Place. Park at the end of the street, walk downhill, and follow the obvious bushwalk to the right. Whenever the track splits, go right. You can also walk in from Lawson Place. Walking time 3-4 minutes either way.

Ethic:

The area is popular amongst bushwalkers, so be respectful and keep noise to a minimum.

1.3.5. RnR 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.004517, -33.773823

Description:

Basic info and problems at www.australianbouldering.com/guides/sydney/RnR_guide.html

Approach:

Park at the end of Rifle Range Road (hence the name RnR) in Northmead where there is a bit of a dead end / cul-de-sac. Head straight ahead down between the houses where there is a path and you'll find the area appearing on the left.

History:

The carrots discovered on Beginners Wall which resemble nothing more than ancient rusted blobs indicates that this crag was first discovered and played on around 1990.

It saw some developement by Tim O'Neill and Adam Griffiths in the autumn/winter of 2002. July 2013 saw some more love and affection by Brendon Flanagan and James Mansfield. Beginners wall was scrubbed down, holds were discovered and problems were created.

This crag was developed and problems listed during the Great Bouldering Boom.

Chalk up, climb on, and live the dream!

1.3.6. The Sewer 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.008929, -33.754032

Description:

The cave faces E so it never actually gets the sun on it making it great for summer and winter alike. The cave is large enough to not get wet in the rain but it does seep occasionally. The rock is typical Sydney sandstone and is sandy in places but there is a lot of juvenile, spray painted graffitti ...

Approach:

Park as close to Eric Mobbs Reserve, Castle Hill, as you can depending on the soccer crowds and walk out the SE end down a well signed path into Bidjigal Reserve. Follow the track downhill for 50m until you hit a T-junction. Take the path to the right for a 100m until the first left. Take the left and follow this path down the hill through some posts in the middle of the track and past a few promising looking boulders, all the way down to the junction of Excelsior and Saw Mill creeks. The Sewer is the big cave about 20m on the southern side the creek junction facing East on the other side of the creek. Beware of the smell ....

1.3.7. Terry's Creek 0 routes in Crag

1.3.8. Loading Dock 0 routes in Crag

Description:

Basic info and problems at www.australianbouldering.com/guides/sydney/Loading_Dock_guide.html

Approach:

Park at the end of Boundary Rd, North Epping and it is the overlooked crag on the right that you walk past after about 50m of the track to the Fear Factory.

History:

Discovered and developed by Tim O'Neill, Adam Griffiths and Rob Saunders in autumn/winter 2002.

1.3.9. Jessicca's 18 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.009487, -33.779041

Description:© (secretary)

Small but high quality, with one very amazing hard problem. Discovered by Adam Griffiths and developed mainly by Adam Griffiths, Tim O'Neill and Saxon Johns in 2001 and 2002.

Useful Info: This area is very close to peoples houses and backyards and so far the residents welcome the "intrusion". But please no boom-boxes, dogs or swearing - save that for the gym!

Approach:© (secretary)

Park on the Cnr of North Rocks Rd and 'Loyalty' Rd, and head under the power line tower and then left behind the town houses. Note: The land the power line is on is not public land, it is the property of the house on your right, so please be courteous.

1.3.10. The Grove 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

1.3.11. The Stables 40 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 151.058563, -33.724618

Description:© (rodw)

The crag was spotted early in 2002 by Rod Wills during a ridge walk for bouldering spots. Rescouted by Rod and Stephen Hawkshaw in July 2002, when it was decided it would provide a good number of routes. 'The Stables' & 'otherland' are located in Sydney's north west. Most of the cliffs range from 8-10m's , mostly sport.

Approach:© (rodw)

Drive to the end of Schofield Pde, Pennant Hills.

Park near sign, walk through gate for 100m till a track on the left. Follow this for approximately 200m till it heads right towards the oval. Instead of heading right go more or less straight ahead for 50m and there is a rock cairn (?). Turn left and head through scrub to top of little rocky section. Zig down this section and scramble to the bottom of some rocks. Follow the rock along until it gets to about 3m in height. Look left and there are two smooth gum trees in a small break. Head down this and you come out onto Cave Wall. There are numerous other ways of getting here this just seems to be the easiest.

For 'Otherland', instead of turning down initial track follow fire trail past oval and down the hill. After about 300-400 metres past the oval, turn left on faint track to top of cliff. 'Access' easiest down left side (ie if facing cliff).

1.3.12. The Great North Cliff 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.063379, -33.713832

Description:

A west facing crag which will be better for summer mornings or winter afternoons. The Great North Cliff is located in a shady gully which could make it cold in winter. Sections of The Great North Cliff tends to seep but this doesn't affect all the routes. This cliff line has seen very little traffic and due to this the local vegetation has started to reclaim what was once an impressive local crag. The protection for the sports routes are in excellent condition.

Approach:

Park at the northern end of Elouera Road in Westleigh where it dog legs and you'll see the wooden sign for The Great North Walk. Grab your gear and head on into the park where the cyclone wire fence is. Walk to the left of this enclosed area where you'll find a well defined trail. Continue along this trail for approximately 6 minutes where it meets up with the Great North Walk (there's a sign to your right). If you wish to rap in, jump the fence here to find DBBs in excellent condition. CAUTION! Set up a safety line before setting up for the rap in as the DDBs are right on the edge. Walk in access is at both the right and left hand sides of the crag. The left hand approach is the easiest. When using the left hand access make your way along the Great North Walk passing 2 individual fence lines. Continue along until you start to zig zag downhill. When you reach the stone steps cut into the side of a big boulder on your left with a little wooden 'Great North Walk" sign immediately after it you know you've reached the left side entry point. Turn to your right and follow the high rock line. The walk in from here takes approximately 2 minutes with some mild bush bashing. The bolts for Lust Object will appear on your right.

1.3.13. Lake Parramatta 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.010930, -33.788358

Description:

A large area with heaps of rock. Few climbs. All boulder. Good for locals, or those who like a bit of a walk. Lucky the scenery's nice.

Approach:

The size of this reserve means there are several approach options depending on which problem you're up for. About a half hour walking from Parramatta Station if you're not lazy. Best car access is Illawong Drive off Lackey Street in North Parramatta. There's also a pretty good car park off North Rocks Road between numbers 94 & 92.

History:

Surely someone climbed here before...

1.3.14. Bloc Climbing Centre 39 routes in Gym

Summary:
Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.004405, -33.797941

Description:

If you climb at Bloc Climbing Centre you can use the generic routes below to keep your training logbook up to date.

Approach:

2/23 Castle Street, North Parramatta NSW

1.4. Northern Beaches 466 routes in Region

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.287204, -33.703897

1.4.1. North Head 38 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.299583, -33.816273

Description:© (christo)

On the cliffs below the lookouts at the very end of 'North Head'.

Approach:© (christo)

To get to the top of the Fear and the Bolt Ladder, walk ~10 m towards the ocean from the western lookout. Go down a small set of stairs and then jump the fence when the big concrete and rock pad (the old lookout) appears on the right. Both routes top out below the far side of this. The fisherman's descent is ~50 m further to the east and can clearly be seen from the top of the Fear.

1.4.2. Terrey Hills 29 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 151.232375, -33.685444

Description:© (adb)

A pleasant crag with an easy 5 minute access. A good mix of routes. A bit noisy. Over 29 routes under 10m, mostly with rusty carrots. Faces South but gets a bit of sun late afternoon. Leeches when its wet.

Approach:© (adb)

Park at the locked gate on the South side of Mona Vale Rd, 200m east of Kanangra Rd, Terry Hills. Follow the fire trail past a small brick building on the left. Walk straight ahead onto a walking track that veers left. This takes you to the West end of the crag. An easy walk down.

1.4.3. Fosscrag 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 151.234777, -33.670217

Description:

A small cliff. The track along the base is overgrown so it is obviously not popular.

Approach:

From the junction of Mona Vale Road and McCarrs Creek Road head North for about 1.5km until you see the obvious cliffline on the right. Park in the small area on the right and follow a faint track up the gully separating the left and right clifflines. The four bolted routes are on the right.

1.4.4. Narrabeen 94 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.254952, -33.716828

Approach:© (mjw)

200m West of the track to 'Narrabeen' 'Slabs', on the South side of the road.

1.4.5. Elanora Heights 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 151.268691, -33.704984

1.4.6. Whale Beach 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 151.331894, -33.610509

1.4.7. Barrenjoey 190 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.328318, -33.580298

Description:

A very popular crag located on the south western side of the Barrenjoey Peninsula. Quite an extensive area, with good rock and a good selection of easy and middle grade (and generally slabby) routes.

Access Issues:

There is an Aboriginal midden located underneath the cliff and below Crack of Dawn - please do not disturb the midden. The crag is located within the Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park, however due to its location (on Barrenjoey Headland), climbing is allowed here.

Approach:

From the carpark step over to Station Beach (on the estuary side of the peninsula). From here the crag can be seen poking out through the trees, low down on the left hand side of Barrenjoey. Walk 200m to the northern end of the beach (continue past the scattered rocks at the end of the beach) and pick up a single walking track that heads away from the beach, just past the red shed and the lighthouse track (don't head up the lighthouse track!). Follow the track up around the corner of the fence (past a white house), then continue along it for about 100m. Take the first major track off to the right - this meets the cliff directly below the Jezebel block.

Ethic:

The area is mostly mixed climbing - many climbs are bolted ("carrot" hangar-less bolts for the most part) but also require some trad gear.

1.4.8. Parriwi Road Mosman 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 151.247141, -33.809622

1.4.9. Freshwater Beach 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.290205, -33.783916

Description:

Sea cliffs on queenscliff end

1.4.10. Palm Beach Boulders 23 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.324457, -33.595637

Description:© (sm)

Two large and prominent stand-alone boulders on the sand at Palm Beach with some good problems. 'Excellent' for a swim and warm down after a day at Barrenjoey.

Approach:© (sm)

Continue on Barrenjoey road around the to the ocean side of the peninsula and drive south along the beach until you see the two large boulders. Pull up right next to them.

1.4.11. Northern Beaches Rockhouse 39 routes in Gym

Summary:
Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.277451, -33.764384

Description:

If you climb at Rockhouse you can use the generic routes below to keep your training logbook up to date.

Approach:

Unit 4E, 9 - 13 Winbourne Road, Brookvale, NSW, 2100

1.4.12. Black Cave 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

AKA Manly Cave AKA Forty Basket Beach

1.5. North Shore 1,142 routes in Region

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.187634, -33.773890

Description:

The North Shore has something on offer for all lovers of chalk and rock. There's the Old classic spots like the amazing highballs at Lindfield Rocks, Pumpy much loved problems of Sissy Crag and some brilliant trad at Brown's Road.

New to the Area is the Linfield-like When Crags Collide, the diverse, unappreciated Blues Point and some Slab-tastic climbing at Harbour Side Slabs.

With all that in mind no one can go past the famous Sydney Harbour climb "Clocks" at Balls Head. The North Shore has it all covered, chalk up and climb on!

1.5.1. Balls Head 93 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.194569, -33.847053

Description:© (christo)

A great roof and some dank, mouldy, shitty climbs with fabulous views across the harbour to the bridge, opera house and city skyline.

Useful Info: The local council has BANNED CLIMBING AND BOULDERING HERE! Signs have been erected by North Sydney Council at When Crags Collide stating this sad sad fact.

Approach:© (christo)

Balls Head reserve is at the end of 'Balls Head' Rd, Waverton. Park in the parking area in the middle of the loop road and walk south, down a series of steps towards the harbour. 'Clocks' is on the far side of the boulder at the bottom of the stairs. Walk around to the left or right to get to it, however the right is far easier.

1.5.2. Blues Point 39 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.203218, -33.849978

Description:

A 35m long quarried cliff that has a mass of good, unappreciated boulder problems on it. A few great mantles and some V1's makes this place good for beginners, with a few harder problems scattered throughout.

We all started out as beginners so some VERY easy problems have been developed for those just discovering the love of rock. Become comfortable with the rock, then face the battle of the psychological challange.

With the Harbour Bridge to your right and the harbours water's lapping behind you, this crag will offer you more than just a good climb, it'll offer you some amazing views as well!

Most problems finish halfway up the wall. Of course if one wants to, all problems can be topped out, with more highballs being developed all the time.

News Flash: Blues Point now new and improved with added top rope problems! Gear not included.

Council have also placed a permanent wheelie bin at the base of the crag next to Letterbox Crack. Ensure care is taken when traversing I Can See The Clock But I Don't Know What The Time Is .

Approach:

Drive, ride or walk down to the end of Blues Point Road where you'll hit a car park with an awesome view of the Harbour Bridge and city.

Walk through Blues Point Reserve, past the play ground and toilets and then round the point past all the fishermen. In under 2 minutes you've come across the first wall with two more only meters away.

History:

Well hello there I'm glad you stopped by. Why don't you take a seat and I'll tell you a story of how it all began.

Now bing so close to the city and with the iconic over hang of Balls Head on the opposing shore, Blues Point has been crawled over for years but until recently very few routes had been developed with almost no beta being placed in guide books or online.

Blues Point was first develoepd by Brendon Allan Flanagan in early 2011 and was his first ever 'crag project'. Then in 2012 from sunny Queensland came Ranger Dave who found Blues Point on another climbing web site which will not be mentioned because as we know thecrag.com is the best!

Ranger Daves keen eye for detail could see that Blues Point had so much more to offer the climbing community than what Brendon Allan Flanagan had revealed. Tirelessly Ranger Dave toiled, and toil did Ranger Dave until all the wonders hidden in every crimper, pocket and jug were discovered.

It was at this point Brendon Allan Flanagan and Ranger Dave joined forces to use their powers to persue world domination...they then decided developing more problems and climbs would be a far better idea instead. So like two giddy school girls the night before the school dance (Daves quote, not Brendons), together they focused their excitment on the undeveloped rock in Sydney.

And the Sydney climbing community lived happily ever after.

Ranger Dave and Brendon Flanagan developed this crag so that all chalk bearers could share the love of Blues Point.

Blues Point was the epicentre for the Gret Bouldering Boom.

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

1.5.3. Kurraba Point 24 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.223336, -33.845718

1.5.4. The Spit 67 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.248664, -33.807328

1.5.5. Clifton Gardens 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.253994, -33.838403

Description:

Small but decent overhanging boulder, potentially some other undiscovered boulders in the area

1.5.6. Balmoral 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.252617, -33.823276

Description:

Vertical Beach climbing. You'd be better off going for a swim or grabbing a cappuccino

Approach:

It's the "island" right in the middle of Balmoral Beach

1.5.7. Cammeray 15 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.216344, -33.817181

1.5.8. St Leonards 39 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.189303, -33.817846

1.5.9. Castlecrag 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.217345, -33.799130

1.5.10. Middle Cove 50 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Top Rope and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.218727, -33.794624

1.5.11. Castle Cove 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Sport

Long/Lat: 151.209296, -33.779503

1.5.12. West Roseville 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Top Rope and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.164860, -33.790643

Description:

A North Shore zero access sport crag! Has a number of cool little lines, including a great little 24 that busts through the roof! To get to the crag, park on the left at the corner of Shirley Rd and Valleyview Close in Roseville and find a faint track between number 130 and a light pole.  Down past a boulder on your left, then veer right then back left to the top of the cliff (you'll come out directly above Thunderbird).  At this point you're still no more than 100m from the houses! Descend to the right (chopped steps, boulder scramble). Apparently some mid ranged bouldering off to the right (not checked) or bash over to the left or find the faint track amongst the undergrowth to find yourself underneath the big overhang. Thunderbird starts here.   The crag is within the Lane Cove National Park. Climbs described left to right.

1.5.13. Lindfield Rocks 192 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.178951, -33.768556

Description:© (Atrax)

Highly popular, historic bouldering destination. Mostly vertical, with some steeper stuff, some highball, some safe.

Millions of variations on the described problems exist, and everything's been done. Have fun and explore.

Comments on grades and star ratings are welcomed.

Useful Info: 'Problems' are described right-to-left. Take care with landings. Most high problems have toprope bolts in place to save erosion and tree damage - use them if you're toproping! If it's damp/sandy, try to stay off to minimise wear.

Problem selection based on 'Sydney Bouldering', 2001 Peter Balint et al, which you really should buy as a Sydney boulderer.

Approach:© (Atrax)

Near the corner of Archbold Road and Tryon Road in Lindfield is a small driveway (turn right off Archbold before it becomes Eastern Arterial Road and it's immediately after).

Park up and follow the trail to the right of the tennis courts for two minutes to the crag. Convenience!

1.5.14. Killara 297 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.154445, -33.762922

1.5.15. Killarney Heights 31 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.218333, -33.773745

1.5.16. Lane Cove 0 routes in Crag

1.5.17. Forestville 153 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.204669, -33.758708

1.5.18. Wahroonga 71 routes in Area

Summary:
Boulder, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.090678, -33.735359

1.5.19. Greenwich 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.187621, -33.834131

Description:

Info from: www.australianbouldering.com/guides/sydney/greenwich/greenwich_guide.html More projects and basic topos there.

Approach:

Off the end of Vista Street.

1.5.20. Riverview 33 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Top Rope and Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.161473, -33.828461

1.5.21. Waverton 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.199822, -33.840863

1.6. Sydney CBD 1 route in Region

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.208830, -33.871885

1.6.1. The Totem 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Long/Lat: 151.202079, -33.881838

Description:

A sandstone erection consisting of three beautiful choss free sandstone blocks. Stacked on top of each other this totem pole will offer you and amazing highball challenge that's hard to top in the bush and it's located in the heart of Sydney.

Approach:

Located in the Ultimo Pedestrian Network that connects Ultimo Road and Thomas Street in Ultimo. You can't miss it, it's the only pile of sandstone blocks there.

History:

Removed from the excavated site of a nearby building in 2011, it was erected as a strong feature of nature surrounded by a strong man made environment.

1.7. Eastern Suburbs 290 routes in Region

Summary:
Boulder, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.235022, -33.921403

Description:

An amazing example of sea side crags opening up for people interested in all things rock. Top roping, lead climbing, trad, high lining and abseiling, the Eastern Suburbs has it all. During summer you and your friends will more than likely have mother nature put a show on for you with her wildlife. There's always a good chance of seeing whales, dolphins and other creatures. Clovelly is a prime location for this as well as Diamond Bay and Bondi. If you're interested in a little adrenalin rush then perhaps Rosa Gully is the place for you with several high line anchors in situ for those who dare!

Most crags have easy parking with only a short distance to walk, scramble or abseil into the crag.

1.7.1. Gordons Bay 4 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder and Deep Water

Long/Lat: 151.263357, -33.916085

Description:

A fun area to snorkel, relax and free climb. There are a few bouldering routes and a deep water solo. Phototopos to come!

Approach:

A good walking track provides very easy access

History:

Alec started mucking around on some problems on the north side before finding an amazing deep water solo project on the south side

1.7.2. Coogee 28 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.259110, -33.926838

1.7.3. Clovelly 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.271081, -33.913911

Description:© (willmonks)

One of Sydney's smaller and less-intrepid sea cliffs, 'Clovelly' has a range of (often-steep)climbing. The bolts are generally good (by sea-cliff standards) and the rock is not too friable.

Approach:© (willmonks)

On the northern side of 'Clovelly' Beach, beneath Burrows Park. Park in Ocean St, opposite the park, or catch a 339 or 340 bus to the beach and walk up the hill. There is a descent gully at the southern end of the crag (near the northern point of 'Clovelly' Bay), however it is hard to get to the northern climbs, such as 'Steep', from here when the sea is rough or the tide is high. The easiset approch for these climbs is to abseil of the large white survey marker. This is just visible from the road, on the far (sea) side of Burrows Park.

1.7.4. Bronte 13 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 151.269936, -33.910015

1.7.5. Tamarama 0 routes in Crag

Description:

Two boulders located in the park behind Tamarama Beach. Undeveloped but climbable.

Approach:

Park anywhere around the beach. Boulder directly west and located just of the path. Easy to spot

1.7.6. Bondi 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 151.285565, -33.888722

Description:© (nmonteith)

Bondi is a big and serious crag for Sydney standards. It doesn't have much in the way of easy routes and has difficult access to boot. Despite this it's definitely worth a visit since the rock on the main wall is some of the best on the sea cliffs. Some recent rebolting has made the best of the routes leadable again.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

The crag is located a few minutes drive past the northern point of Australias famous Bondi Beach and can be found directly east of the intersection of Wallis St and Military Rd.

Park as close to the Bondi Golf and Diggers club house as you can. Grab your gear and make your way around the southern end of the golf course between the greens and the wooden fence line. This will bring you out to the edge of the cliff where you'll find a large rock platform you can walk out on to. Head north of the rock platform following the cliff line and the goats trail through the knee high grass for approx 20 meters where you'll find an overhang/cave. This is the top of the main wall and where most of the action can be found.

Bondi is truly an amazing place to climb so avoid walking across the fairways or greens as we don't want to annoy the golfers and have our access banned, or worse, have a golf ball hit a strolling climber on the noggin. FORE!!!

The original descent gully is down the aptly named "Black Filth Couloir" just north of the main wall. Many people take one look at it and rap in instead. Rapping in is much safer, enjoyable and quicker. There are 2 sets of double bolt belay's spread out over the top of the main wall. One set at the southern end, one in the middle and a lone single bolt at the northern end. There's also a set of double bolt belays about 15 meters north of the main wall which are the anchors for Arapiles. All anchor points require double 50m ropes, although it's probably better to fix one rope, rap in and lead out on a second. All carrots are in excellent condition.

There's also one set of double bolt belay's on the southern end of the rock platform you first come across when arriving at the crag. These bolts are in excellent condition and are there for an unknown project.

If you and your climbing party decide not to rap in or climb out there's another descent gully between the grass and the rock platform south of the main wall. You'll find a single ring bolt about 15 meters down into the southern descent gully on the left hand side. This is ideal for setting up an access rope which is highly recommended when either going down or coming up this access trail. From the bottom of the southern access gully it's a cautious walk north back to the main wall.

A few people have said "I should've brought my swimmers along". NOT A GOOD IDEA. The ocean has easy access at this crag and as tempting as it is you don't want to risk being smashed against the rocks by the surging ocean. The Westpac rescue helicopter is not the best way to exit a crag. Remember folks, Australias most famous beach is only a 2 minute drive down the road from here so best to slip slop slap and go swim between the flags.

Climbs are described left to right facing the cliff.

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

1.7.7. Vaucluse 85 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.274495, -33.858303

1.7.8. Watsons Bay 29 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.283844, -33.840038

1.7.9. Queens park 38 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.251326, -33.901365

1.7.10. Mrs. Macquarie's Chair 30 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.221559, -33.862208

Description:

With trees and water all around, MMC has some isolated patches of rock which could hit the spot during lunch time. Stuck in an office? Take the stroll and have some fun.

Approach:

Either walk from your office or park at Mrs. Macquarie's Chair. If driving please remember that Sydney City Council has regular Rangers patroling the area handing out tickets to those who don't feed the meter. Bring some change and enjoy the harbour views while bouldering.

History:

Mrs.Macs Chair is a product of the great bouldering boom!

1.7.11. Unit block 25 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

Micro crag consisting of traversing and short up probs and eliminates. Good climbing for the inner city as the wall is around 20 to 30 degrees with a nice bulge running through the right side of the wall. Not the most attractive of areas but good climbing nonetheless. About eight to ten metres in length and 3m low point 4m high point.

Approach:

To be found at Sutherland avenue Paddington beside a big block of flats. 7min from edgecliff station and short walk from cascade street from the bus stop.

History:

Development started around 2009 or 10 by Krishna Thorburn as a way of coping with the immanent birth of his little girl. Around 10 plus problems exist with half a dozen still to be done. Currently the established problems are for v1 to v5 aprox with a few harder projects to be completed. Will try and get a few more done before I move on. Move!! Gana miss this spot!!

1.8. Inner West 262 routes in Region

Summary:
Boulder, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.122433, -33.897807

Description:

Located close to Sydney CBD, offering an assortment of lead climbing, top roping and a plethora of bouldering.

Sydney's Inner West has a surprising amount of climbing for being so close to the city. Earlwood gets by far the most attention (and so it should) but new crags with good potential are being discovered every month.

This location offers everything from well protected and varied short routes in nice bush surroundings, to pumpy low caves and solid highballs with nasty landings by the water.

Being so close to Sydney, these areas are well worth a look in especially with Iron Cove offering several decent crags to boulder at.

Respect to the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the Inner West has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com

1.8.1. Pyrmont 29 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.191432, -33.867407

Description:

A great location right by the shore lines of Sydney Harbour and only a 15 minute walk from the city center. Just like Kangaroo Point in Brisbane you'll find Pyrmont Wall and Pyrmont Spanish Lessons can be played on at night with the council lighting in place.

Approach:

There's a plethora of parking all along Pirrama Road in Pyrmont...however...it's all metered so make sure you pay to avoid the Council Rangers who prowl the streets searching for unsuspecting free loading parkers. The Star casino is located near by which results in the hoards of Council Rangers looking to raise some more revenue for Sydney City Council.

History:

A much neglected crag in the past due to other popular locations. Pyrmont and the surrounding suburbs are now seeing some much needed and long awaited development. Local action on its way direct to you! Chalk up and climb on!

1.8.2. Glebe 28 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.185072, -33.878334

Description:

A suburb with many good qualities, not all of them climbing. The same as many of the surrounding CBD suburbs, the crags in Glebe are mostly all from old sandstone quarries used to the sandstone bricks used to build many of the houses you can see as you drive by.

If you're a strandard local with no one to drive you to an eastern suburbs crag for a climb then this area can help fix your craving for some rock action.

History:

All significant development in Glebe occurred during the Great Bouldering Boom!

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

1.8.3. Iron Cove 42 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.154023, -33.863776

Description:

Iron Cove Bay offers 8 different locations for some bay side bouldering. Some locations are dependent on low tide for access. Please take 10 seconds to clean holds after working problems. Callin Point AKA The Margin Crag had a large build up of chalk (nice to see so much traffic) making the holds slippery.

Approach:

All crags have easy access. Park your car and incorporate a walk of a few minutes and there you are. Good crags for short, easy work outs when you can't get to Diamond Bay, Sutherland or other impressive crags. Park your car, bike or pushy and walk on it. All crags are by the water and the famous Bay Run.

History:

Apparently some problems were developed years ago but nothing was ever registered. Ranger Dave and Brendon Allan Flanagan changed all that.

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

1.8.4. Balmain 31 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.183877, -33.856220

Description:

An area of Sydney offering a variety of crags consisting of quarry cutting after quarry cutting after quarry cutting, with a little harbour side sandstone to boulder on just to break it up.

Most sandstone here is of acceptable quality but alas the problems or climbs are sadly offering less than that. Not bad iof you're in the area with some time to kill after a coffee, beer or vino at one of the many fine surrounding establishments.

1.8.5. Drummoyne 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.146619, -33.845756

Description:

Just like all Sydney harbour side suburbs Drummoyne offers sandstone on its foreshores.

This area no doubt has more on offer so take some time to have a little look see and develope some more.

History:

The first recorded crag was developed by Ranger Dave during the Great Bouldering Boom!

1.8.6. Earlwood 44 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.132008, -33.930695

Description:

A popular and pleasant little south facing crag with the look and feel of English Gritstone. Excellent rock quality, easy top-rope setups and well bolted. In addition to the following climbs, there is also bouldering (Bardwell traverse) located at the left end of the crag. There are additional minor bouldering areas: (a) a small area approximately 100 m further left of the crag, right next to the track, (b) A few problems can be found scattered in bushland on the West side of Finlay's Ave near the entrance to Turella park (about 10 min walk right of the main crag when facing the trainline).

A 3D model of the main area is available to download here. https://www.box.com/s/6cn9lyfhkmrctz176zv2 (Please note Sketch up V8 is needed to view it)

Approach:

Located above Wolli Creek in Earlwood. Catch a train to Bardwell Park station or drive to Fauna St or Sutton Ave, Earlwood. Walk into Girrahween Park, and where the sealed paths converge, take the obvious bush track (east). After 10 minutes of scenic bush walking the track passes directly underneath the crag. Alternative access is from the east end of this same track located downhill from the end of Finlays Avenue, Earlwood (the bush track is marked by a small post labeled TVT). Climbs described left to right (west to east), facing the cliff. Watch out for a small amount of broken glass on the path near the crag.

1.8.7. Bexley North 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.116761, -33.945130

1.8.8. Sydney Indoor Climbing Gym St Peters 39 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.174643, -33.910289

Description:

This is a basic gym listing. It is locked and cannot be edited.

If you climb at Sydney Indoor Climbing Gym St Peters you can use the generic routes below to keep your training logbook up to date.

If you are from Sydney Indoor Climbing Gym St Peters and would like to unlock this page to make a more tailored and detailed listing please contact us (http://www.thecrag.com/article/ContactUs)

Approach:

4C/1-7 Unwins Bridge Rd St Peters

1.8.9. The Ledge Climbing Centre, University of Sydney. 39 routes in Gym

Summary:
Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.186207, -33.887674

Unique Features And Strengths:

Excellent, techniqal route settings making it well worth the visit.

Description:

The University of Sydneys indoor climbing gym offers short but excellent routes and problems to work on.

Approach:

The Arena Sports Centre A30 Western Ave University of Sydney NSW T: 9351 8115

Metered parking on campus grounds.

History:

1.8.10. Undercliffe 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

A small bouldering wall useful to know about if you live nearby.

Description:

A small bouldering area in the bush, with sharp, pocketed sandstone providing a few problems and a short traverse.

Access Issues:

The crag is in bush parkland, close to part of the Two Valleys Track (TVT) in Canterbury council area.

Approach:

From the end of Unwin Street, Undercliffe (which is walking distance from Tempe train station), continue walking along the track past some outcrops on your right for about 50 m. Step around the fence (the normal walking track), and after about 25 m further on, past the huge pipes, turn up hill for about 20 m to find the crag tucked away in some bushes.

1.9. Western Suburbs 40 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Boulder and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.952210, -33.877172

1.9.1. Old Ryde Railway Bridge 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.9.2. Sydney Indoor Climbing Gym Villawood 39 routes in Gym

Summary:
Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.978607, -33.879390

Description:

If you climb at Sydney Indoor Climbing Gym Villawood you can use the generic routes below to keep your training logbook up to date.

Approach:

Unit 5/850 Woodville Road, Villawood, NSW, 2163

1.10. Colo River 83 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.775044, -33.420830

Description:

A good collection of mixed crags with some nice sport areas and slab climbing. Provides a nice winter location close to Sydney.

Old school sport and Trad areas with a mix of carrots and fixed hangers. If developing make use of Trad placements where possible and if replacing bolts please respect the route as it is and replace bolt for bolt.

1.10.1. Slab City 18 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 150.793653, -33.425402

1.10.2. Cracks Corner 17 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.735726, -33.420027

1.10.3. Funnelweb Gulch 10 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.731080, -33.411333

1.10.4. Mandalay Cliff 38 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.829329, -33.433212

Description:

Large crag facing North West. Warm winter spot overlooking the Colo river. Plenty of old style sport on some rusty carrots with a bunch of nice trad and newer sport thrown in. Be careful of the odd car as you belay from the roadside.

Approach:

Located on Lower Colo Rd (Southern side of Colo River). Turn off Putty Rd at Upper Colo Rd exit. Turn right under overpass and park just past the bridge. Walk about 300m along Lower Putty Road.

Some new stainless carrots and a wire brush and many of the slab climbs will become very nice routes.

1.11. South West 307 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport, Boulder and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.732337, -33.935828

Description:

The neglected area of Sydney cragging, strange considering the quality of rock and recent finds like St helens Park bouldering, the big Junkyard Cave and the Hide Away.

In the 70 and 80 and bunch of routes were done at the Woolwash at the back of Airds near Campbelltown, short cracks and mossy slabs mostly done on top rop. A rough guide was done but it lacked details and descriptions.

In roughly 2011 and 2012 Byron Glover set to work on the quality rock and cave of the Wedderburn and St Helens Park bouldering areas finding some absolute gems in the process. Steep and pocketed on quality stone, V3 - V11, easy access, who wants more?

In 2012 Matt Brooks went looking for bouldering in the area after moving nearby and getting a copy of the then new Sydney climbing guide - south of the harbour.

He found the new sector to the Woolwash, the Junkyard Cave with its water polished sandstone and classy steep routes, some that would be quite at home in the Grampians (not in Suburban Sydney).

In early 2014 he also discovered the Hide Away another quality sandstone offering on the banks of the Georges River with a variety of sport routes from 12 - 28 and the 20m roof of the Ghetto Superstar.

With the amount of rock along the length of the Georges River there are sure to be more discoveries.

1.11.1. Simmos Beach 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.907642, -33.999597

Description:

Simmos Beach is a Nature Reserve on the banks of the Georges River behind Macquarie Fields. There is a couple of bouldering areas (Rocos Cave and The House Block) and a small crag with some carrots, U bolts and moss. There is some potential for more bouldering problems and faces in this area with further exploring.

Approach:

Enter the Simmos Beach reserve at the end of Fifth Avenue at the back of Macquarie Fields. -33.999184,150.904148

History:

The history of the U bolts and carrots on The Scoop Wall is unknown. Matthew Brooks started bouldering in this area in late 2013, looking for some boulders close to home.

1.11.2. Gunner's Crags 4 routes in Region

Summary:
Sport and Unknown
Description:

Series of west facing cliffs near Georges River Nature Reserve.

1.11.3. The Hide Away 56 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Boulder and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.883236, -34.020306

Unique Features And Strengths:

Single pitch sandstone sport-climbing with almost all day shade and lush rainforest surroundings. Five minute approach. A good local alternate to a day at Nowra for those with a shortage of time.

Description:

South West Sydney keeps on giving. Another wall of water washed sandstone with 10-20m high sport routes.

Access Issues:

Climbers have removed a lot of bogan rubbish from the base of this crag, including hundreds of bottles and cans. Please keep the place clean! Don't throw orange peels into the bush, they don't rot. If you see any trash left by others please take it out with you.

There are two large Tarps in the Main cave to keep gear and boots clean - please leave these!

Approach:

Park at the corner of Balmoral and Mercedes Rds in Ingleburn. Head through the locked gate and down the closed bituemen road for about 80 metres till you see a foot track on the R. Turn R down this and follow it for about 150 metres to another faint track on the R and the top of the cliff about 15 metres down this. The descent rungs are about 15 metres L of here (facing out).

A short scramble down a series of rungs here on the northern end of the cliff (the left end facing out). This descent access is not suitable for small children or non-climbers, but it is possible to go 100m further L (facing out) and come down a track and traverse back R.

Ethic:

None - it is Sydney style sport routes on ring bolts. Please keep off any tagged closed projects.

History:

Early recorded history is minimal. Locals call this area Greengate (apparently named after the color of the gate on the main road that was once painted green). Two weird old carrot bolts have been found on this cliffline - one at the base of the Descent Gully Wall and one on the arete on the far right end of Easy Street. Some old faded slings and biners were found in the bush. As a densely developed sport crag the history begins with the discovery by local Matt Brooks after some extensive bush bashing in early 2014.

1.11.4. The Unknown 0 routes in Crag

Unique Features And Strengths:

Once beautiful 25m high hand crack.

Description:

A nice 10 - 25 high wall of good quality Sandstone on the banks of the Georges River

Access Issues:

Land above the crag is Defence Land and sign posted as such. Do not go past this point.

Approach:

Park as for the Hide Away. Park at the corner of Balmoral and Mercedes Rds in Ingleburn. Head through the locked gate and down the closed bituemen road for about 80 metres till you see a foot track on the R. Turn R down this and follow it for about 150 metres to another faint track on the R and the top of the cliff about 15 metres down this. The descent rungs are about 15 metres L of here (facing out).

A short scramble down a series of rungs here on the northern end of the cliff (the left end facing out). This descent access is not suitable for small children or non-climbers, but it is possible to go 100m further L (facing out) and come down a track and traverse back R.

From the base of the rungs, turn R (facing out) and head down to the main cave. From the main cave turn L (down hill and follow the track down the hill to the river. Cross this and straight up the hill to the crag.

Ethic:

Mixed routes and bolts.

History:

Do you know anything?? Many old carrot bolts, painted initials and some old pitons in the cracks here and no record anywhere. Probably late 70s ealry 80s??

1.11.5. The Greenhouse 27 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

A series of caves and boulders in a shady jungle like gully upstream of the Hide Away climbing but accessed from Bensley Rd. Named after the jungle like location and the plethora of rotting black pots, most likely used to grow mary jane in the dense bush. Some fantastic steep scoopy roof style problems in these caves and more potential in the area.

Approach:

Head for the corner of Bensley and Mercedes Rds Ingleburn, turn or continue about 700m south down Bensley Rd to the high voltage power lines crossing the road. Park here where there is a gate and some large concrete blocks just pass the open paddock. Go through the access gate and walk down beside the paddock with the fence on your L to a cleared track that parralells the paddock. After about 200m you will come to the end of this and a small rusty gate. Go through this into a grassy area and diagonally L down the hill following a roughly cleared track to the creek. Cross this and go L following the creek for 100m to the first cave (cross creek to get to it). Continue along the creek to the other caves, boulders and faces (4 - 5 caves and a number of boulders).

History:

Found by Matt Brooks in early 2014. On going devolopment, come join in, bring your brush and pads.

1.11.6. Keith Longhurst Reserve 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.885881, -34.053060

Unique Features And Strengths:

Single pitch sandstone cragging above the scenic Georges River.

Description:

Lots of rock in this small bush reserve around the upper Georges River.

Access Issues:

Signs in the carpark mention Aboriginal sites of cultural significance are in the park.

Approach:

Drive to the northern end of Georges River Rd, Kentlyn. (#239 Georges River Rd) and park in culdescac at the bush tracks. This carpark looks a little dodgy (broken bottles, rubbish etc) but Neil was assured by the police who park there (??!!) that it doesn't get breakins.

Ethic:

Mostly sport routes, but there are several easier trad protected crack routes and highball boulders.

1.11.7. Riverview Road 0 routes in Crag

Description:

Another little area with good sandstone and a bunch of potential for some nice bouldering. Get out there with the pads and brushes and get busy.

Approach:

Drive to the end of Riverview Road in Kentlyn and park at the locked gate. Jump the gate and follow the main track about 500m down the hill, around a few bends and to its end. Go of diagonally (looking out to river) to the start of the walls. These walls and boulders continue all the way around the point behind you (if looking at river) .

History:

Tipped off by Saxon Johns, Matt Brooks and Jessica Shaham came for a play here in early 2013. Bring a brush pad and get into it. Some good potential.

1.11.8. The Woolwash 141 routes in Crag

Summary:
Unknown, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.833137, -34.093780

Unique Features And Strengths:

Steep and Fantastic hard rock.

Description:

An old trad area which has recently become the latest hot spot for local South Western Sydney sport climbers. The Junk Yard Cave is the stand-out feature - a large south facing cliff protected from rain with several very steep and hard routes.

Access Issues:

The parking in Woolwash parade looks dodgy and the suburb doesnt have the best reputation, but this street is largely families and oldies, and no issues have arisen out of many visits by the locals. Please be polite to the locals and park on the median strip in the middle and dont leave valuable is the car as a precaution.

Approach:

Park in Woolwash Crt in Airds near Campbelltown. Dont leave any valuables in the car, and preference is to park in the front of the houses. The area is a bit shit. Jump the gate at the end of the road and head down the hill. For the Trackside Cave head down the hill past the second gate around the hairpin and the wall will appear on your right a little after this. A total of 500m. For The Junk Yard Cave jump the gate take the first R after 100m, then an immediate L at the fork. In a 100m go left on a vague track and follow the rutted track down the hill to a lookout at the top of the crack with a couple of car wrecks. Go R facing out down the gully/track and then back L to the base of the caves.

Ethic:

Sport

History:

Short ungraded trad routes established in the 1970s and now a mega cave discovered by Matt Brooks in winter 2012. The 70s tradition was cracks and no bolts but the era of bolts has seen some of the steep new faces open up a heap of potential.

1.11.9. St Helen's Park Cave 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.809507, -34.113513

Description:

Probably the best crag found so far near Georges River. This cave is full of classic boulders and will guarantee a fantastic day out whatever your climbing ability. As you approach the area one thing you will probably notice is the vast amount of untouched rock just begging to be climbed! The cave itself stays virtually dry no matter the conditions, but is however known to seep after an extended period of rain.

Byron Glover

Approach:

Drive down to Meredith Cres, St Helens Park. And look for the gate leading into Mary Brookes Park. On foot, follow the tarmac strip and turn right heading down the dirt road till you reach a metal gate. Continue past the gate and turn left at the T-junction. Follow the road around for another 100 meters or so, till you see a pile of rocks near the left turning bend on the right side of the road. At this point head straight into the bush following the piles of rock’s straight down to the creek line. Once you can see the creek, turn left and follow it down another 50 meters or so till you see the large cave.

Byron Glover

1.11.10. Wedderburn Cave 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.811723, -34.117155

Description:

Just above the bank of Georges River, The Wedderburn Cave boasts some of the longest roof climbs in the Sydney area. Most of the bouldering is steep technical roof climbing with exciting top outs and is not a recommend area for people relatively new to climbing. The crag gets a little bit of sun during the afternoon and stays dry in wet weather, however all the top outs will be wet until the sun comes out.

Byron Glover

Approach:

Approximately 1km after the small bridge where the road straightens out, park on the left side of Wedderburn Rd, next to a black tree stump protruding a meter or so out of the ground. Cross the road where you see a black tree with two large even sized trunks and head straight into the bush following an old barbwire fence towards the river. Step over the fence were it breaks down laying over a flat rock, you should see an obvious path veering off to the left. Follow it down till you reach the rock line. There will be a number of rock piles along the track leading down to the rock line to help guide you to the gully were you need to scramble down. Continue to follow the rock piles further down into the bush, over a large tree trunk until you reach the cave.

Byron Glover

1.11.11. Kentlyn 26 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Boulder

1.11.12. Boganvilla cave 0 routes in Crag

Description:

Small Boulder Cave Hidden Away Along The River

Access Issues:

Access is quite easy. Only a 10 Min walk from the weir carpark.

Approach:

Turn of at Bensley Rd to Picnic grove rd and head down to the carpark. Park in the first parking spots on the left just as you enter picnic grove. Follow the steps down to the wier. When you reach the bottom where the plaque is keep heading straight ahead for about 5 min following the rock face. Quite a easy approach.

History:

Early recorded history is minimal. Discoverd By a little bit of bush bashing by Andrew Warren And Kirk Stewart.

1.12. Royal National Park 65 routes in Region

Summary:
Boulder, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.064051, -34.125961

1.12.1. The stairs 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.055639, -34.071681

Description:

A big block and cliff line. Most stuff here has been done, though I haven't logged it feel free to finish off the rest.

Approach:

Park down where the boat hire is, walk up stairs on car park driveway to more stairs on the road bend. The stairs lead you to the bouldering area about 100m up.

History:

Luke.W, Grant.S 2007

1.12.2. Wattamolla 16 routes in Crag

Summary:
Boulder, Deep Water and Unknown

Long/Lat: 151.118396, -34.139595

1.12.3. Wave Cave 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder
History:

Luke.W, Cam.T & Adam.G 2003

1.12.4. Porno Shop 10 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.051468, -34.062562

Description:© (bundybear)

A few things worth going for, mostly overhangs or roofs. It's a bit scattered over valley but once there it's all close.

Approach:© (bundybear)

From the Princes highway at Loftus turn into the Royal National Park at Farnell Avenue, park where the power lines cross the road. Walk south along the power line maintenance trail for about 200 metres then hang a right into easy bushbashing for until you come to the cliff line. Pussy flavoured space food stix would be left when you get to the cliff line & right would take you to the rest.

History:© (bundybear)

Luke.W & Cam.T 2002

1.12.5. Rockford 27 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Sport
Unique Features And Strengths:

Steep, dry, bolts.

Description:

One of the best wet weather options for hard cranking in Sydney. This large South Central style cave has a good selection of powerful and well bolted testpieces. Slopers are common and low humidity can change a routes grade considerably. Generally grades here are stiff to hard very stiff. Mist tends to hang around here so spoodgy conditions after heavy rain can be a problem. It's shady in the morning and gets a little sun late in the day. Leeches can be a problem on the walk-in.

Access Issues:

Be aware - this crag is officially ILLEGAL (no climbing in Royal NP) - so keep a very low profile. Park your car down the road away from the crag access track, or even better walk in from above on the tourist track. No loud yelling, no rubbish left behind and no big groups. When packing to and from the car keep climbing gear such as ropes in your bag. Don't let people driving by know what you are doing

Approach:

Due to access issues please ask a Shire local for more info on this great little sport cave.

History:

Established after 2003. Routes by CT, JL, LW, NM