Routes as sport in Sydney Metropolitan

Straight up slab moving right to finish at anchors.

Starts 5m right of the corner crack in the centre of main wall. Start below small orange roof and follow the rings to the top. No lower-offs but DBB just back from edge (Large bolt heads only just fit standard brackets so take wires or belay off giant tree further back). Needs another ring or 2

Line of bolts up bouldery arête right of the sloping corner crack.

Easy beginner's route, and someone can walk up and check their anchor technique. Walk, run, or hop up the slab just right of walk up.

Tricky mantel and out left.

Out right and up

Slopers lead to a commiting move onto the overhang. Haul over and follow bolts up arete to finish.

Up the scoop.

Easy but reachy. Up to ledge , hard move then R to arete and jugs and L to anchor. There is a harder variant moving left to the centre of the wall clipping one bolt. 19?

Anchors replaced 2017, then after breaking biners, replaced again 2020.

Wall R of It's for You, don't use any holds on the other climbs

Jug haul up past rings. Start: right side of buttress 30m left of 'Cenotaph Corner'. Now has loweroffs.

Wall 2m R of Taylor Made, up wall and left to shared anchor.

Wall 3m L of Savage Cabbage. Start on gently rocking boulder.

Starts at the bottom of 'Cenotaph Corner'. Often top roped. Move left at top to lower off

Hard, worthless. Just right of 'Cenotaph Corner' is a slab wall with 2 shiny new ring bolts next to 2 decrepit old carrots.

Climb up slab with difficulty.

Traverse rightwards into the base of the obvious rock ladder. A bit of trickery makes it easier. Stick clip first ring makes it better on the nerves. New anchor out left adds another 4 moves and restores some of the original climbing. Start: 4m right of Cenotaph Corner.

Stick clip ring bolt, committing dyno to jug, save a little for move into the ladder.

Start: direct start to 'Ladder of Gloom'

Scramble up high above hole in cave to first bolt then left and up nose.

Up crack then left onto easy slab to enter the grooved ramp to finish at lower off. Start: 8m right of Medium Strip.

Start up easy crack in slab 20m R of Ladder of gloom. 12m R of Medium Strip. Up to cave, step left and up seam and left to finish.

A few long draws required, backjump or second to clean.

Hard powerful climbing on an 'industrial' medium.

Start: 2m right of 'Soap'.

Warning: Would be wary of climbing on the first three carrot bolts currently, all rusty and third is hanging out a long way

Another route from the industrial revolution.

Start: 1m right of 'Dingo'

Climb through steep terrain to finish at the anchors of Raisin' Hell.

Potential bad fall in to ledge around the 3rd bolt - don't blow it! belayers stay sharp! funky moves upside down and behind the head...

Start: 2m right of Raisin' Hell

As for Luv Handles, then step out across the void and continue 7m along the lip of the cave to finish at the lonely chain. Guaranteed to give you a whole body pump.

From the anchors of luv handles, follow the rail to the centre of the roof (crux) to reach mushroom jug then joins up the best bits on Timmy time. Best to extend 2nd and last draw of luv handles for rope to run free.

Climb steep arete then up head wall.

Start: Right 'Arete' on the Cave of Soap

Climb up to cave then up thin top wall.

Start: 1m right of '3D Wimp Out'

Climb up to cave, leave cave rightwards then up thin finish.

Start: as for 'Alison'

Bouldery start then left a bit, rightwards up yet another thin finish. Very popular warmup. Start: 3m right of Gash.

Up Yesterday's Heroes to 2nd Ubolt, then right a (hard) move and straight up crimpy wall, step left at top to YH lower off.

Up yet another thin route

Start: 1m right of 'Yesterday's Heroes'

Now fully bolted, and has its own anchors. More consistent than DC.

Start: 2m right of 'Palm Sunday'

Directly up past 2 bolts. No sneaking out right.

Start: first route on elevated platform right of 'Samantha'.

Popular route, up thin crimps. Will probably be the hardest route at the crag in 10 years if the holds keep disappearing.

Start: Immediately right of 'Dangerous Currents'

Up line right of 'Eccles', initialled. Has been retro bolted. Very hard start to jug, then straightforward. The grade is historical, probably harder than Bill Collins off the ground

Start: right of 'Eccles'

One word, Sharp!!

If you have leather tips, it's a shoe in. Crimp up painful holds, clip anchors and cry. Classic if you like that sort of thing.

Start: Where the elevated platform drops.

Starts 2m R of 'Bill Collins', and finishes at anchors of the extended version of 'Gidget Verdon'. Quite varied climbing for a wall and loads of finger shredding fun.

Hard start, even harder with the loss of a hold, originally 22.

Up to 3rd bolt then move rightwards.

Start: 8m right of 'Bill Collins'.

Start as for original but move leftwards at 3rd bolt to lower offs.

An utterly desperate wall climb on tiny holds. Strong candidate for sandbag of the millenium, originally graded 26, but latest talks have it at 28/29

Start: 4m right of 'Gidget Verdon'.

or maybe 22? Recommend pre clipping 1st bolt. Boulder up slab, mantle on to step. Up through scoop past BR, onto second step, clip UB then continue up slopey arête, finish left at double UB belay.

Up orange wall with plenty of rests

Wall right of Riding Shotgun. Through roof to lip, lower or (easier) backjump.

Up Adam Ant and left through scoopy roof

Up scoops 5m R of Riding Shotgun, as for Angry Ants, then up corner to Angry Ants lower off.

Up through scoop, around the arete and up slab to lower offs.

Easy ramp 4m R of Angry Ants, lower off above ledge.

Reachy boulder the DS straight up to the first bolt on the ramp of death. Then reachy finsh through to higher anchors.

Pocketed wall/bulge 5m right of Ramp of Death, Jump to pocket and away!

Start as for Jessica's Climb, then left up wall. Shared lower offs with Jessica's Climb.

Up to tree for a precarious mantel then up to double U bolt lower offs.

In memory of Jessica Islip.

arete right of Jessica's, Pull out your guns for the top. Have the belayer keep a snug rope on the last moves as you are close to the ledges and there's a 10m of rope to stretch.

Start in the middle of the pocketed wall 12 m L of GOM. Swing around and on pockets to easy mantle finish.

Up the small steep wall following line of U's. Nice toy climb.

Juggy line on hangers up small overhang.

Spectacular but weird, from the 3rd bolt of Prowl and Prejudice go straight up slab and through big roof to lip

Black wall just left of Violet Bumble.

Climb blocky corner/arete to top of purple wall, straight to chain anchors on lip of roof above. Or traverse right into the 23 and finish there (a few more moves but harder to clean or toprope). A hold on the top arete has been falling apart and it seems much harder than 19 now.

Climb the obvious golden flake moving up to easy ground. two bolts to lower off. bouldery.

Start: 4m left of 'Scones of Doom'

Up line of rings on short wall

Start: 2m left of cave

Up corner by Scones of Doom, onto Bronco and up.

Up through the scoopy slopers to ledge (avoiding spinning RB). Back out and onto head wall (RB) and up to DRB lower-offs.

Scones too soft? Add a pumpy traverse and cruxy mantle into the fray with the linkup into Omnipox. Notoriously difficult to find, apparently it is near "Are you my pussy".

Through bulges to finish slightly left.

Reputedly tough for the grade, you decide.

Start: 2m left of 'Glamorpus'

Awesome overhanging route

Start: nice little mantle then awesome climbing

Picking the absolute worst of Glamopus and 'Are You My Mother?'. More Mantles thana display home estate. Do the mantle on 'Glamorpus' then traverse right along the ledge to do the mantle on 'Are You My Mother?'.

A fantastic pumpy route. Picks the best bits of each route. Climb 'Are You My Mother?' to 2nd bolt, do the dyno then traverse left and clip the new U bolt then finish up 'Glamorpus'.

One for the tall people. Boulder up to bulge, commit for the throw then commit a bit more for the mantle. clip safety bolt and rest forever. tall people grab chipped finish hold, shorties - feet up with a little dead point for finishing hold.

Start: 3m right of 'Glamorpus'

Rightwards on slopiness then up nose, all the holds are in the wrong place, it traverse right around arete up high. Desperate but fun climbing

As for NIBS but head straight up arete at 3rd RB. The old bolt to the left remains unclimbed

Start as for LL and head right to big big jug on prow. Up to 3rd bolt on overhanging then head around arete to join the end of Scott's Edge.

Nice sequence to start then easy climbing for the rest.

Start: little sequence that makes the climb

Through small roof then up wall and flake. Remove tag on 2nd bolt.

Start: 2m right of Scott's Edge

Rooflet then sandy breaks. Bolt on lip has been replaced.

Start: 1m right of 'Comausminpab'.

Industrial anchors surrounded by a sea of pockets. A crag classic.

Start: 2m right of 'Comausminpab'

Anchors and problem bolts replaced 08/20.

Very sustained with 4 sections of 18. Easy moves but hard to find the holds. The top has often been climbed by people failing on Natasha. Clip 1st bolt of Natasha and either traverse left below bolt with feet in break, or go diagonally left to next bolt and up wall. Clip the Fox Sox Pox lower off and up short final wall to Clip and Go anchor

Climb through pockets to tackle thin section above 4th bolt to gain chain

Start: 3m right of 'Fox Sox Pox'

Another crag classic. Made even more so after rebolting. Up through pockets then 'blank' wall to finish. Start: 1m right of 'Natasha'. Anchor added on slab on left.

Go direct, left of the original start for MF, past two rings.

Start: 2m left of MF

Cool pocket move and more funkies above. Crosses Mental Fatigue so avoid traffic jams. Start 1.5m Left of Mental Fatigue, up the good pocket. Clip 2nd bolt on MF then up to big Jug and rail (both reached from the MF flake), then straight up wall.

Nice crack with 'good' underclings and 'easy' moves. The block that the lower off was in is cracked on 3 sides and has a tree growing in it, so it was moved down to more solid rock.

Up wall 1m R of MF. Use the original start right of MF, or start up MF and R (but why?).

Great wall climbing using some great holds and some small ones as well.

Gain the break then venture up the slab to finish.

Start: 4m right (up slope) from 'Mental Fatigue'.

Left side of arete, mantel out left and walk R to arete and up. Traverse left to lower-off. Stay off after rain as the arete is pretty hollow. Strong climbers will rip holds off, definitely hide and wear a helmet while belaying.

Marked. Bouldery start (BR) then move past 2nd BR to break. easy going to the top.

Start: 3m left of the corner.

Start as for 'Positive Ape Factor' but at the point it veers R, instead head L passed 3 RBs to join 24. Can use a cam if you feel the need. Free to somebody with strong fingers. Please note though, somebody from the old days (decades ago) did chip this route, so its not pure. I can remove the bolts if people don't want it.

Start at Ring bolt above graffiti, in front of tree 3m left of Daily Grind. Easy start to powerful edge climbing, standing on some super small holds.

Technical past Ubolts and crimps. Start: Marked.

Up arete to a very hard finish. Traverse R at the top to Wall Thing.

Nice moves with good little crux. 3RB to anchors.

Up and R

Little grotto/gully past decent gully. Cruxy start, then follow orange rock to belay ledge. Nice exit from crag.

Short thin slab with 2 RB and DRBB. 1m left of LTN. Rock has crumbled in several places possibly making this pitch harder

Up Block into corner to ledge then up slab to DRBB. 4 RB then DRBB. Great for beginners to learn to sport climb.

Over large block then up slab to DRBB. 2m right of LTN.

3RB's to lower offs