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Description

A small sandstone crag, with an easy access and a nice position. This place makes a great summer crag as there is almost always a breeze and is in the shade in the afternoon. Note that the routes on the right side of the cliff can not be accessed at high tide due to water flooding the area. All of the climbs require the belayer to find a suitable tree and bring up a second. Helmets are recomended for climber and belayer, as there is quite a bit of loose rock on the topouts.

Here is a link to a Tide Chart for Sunshine beach.

History: There used to be a route called Hungover Fisherman (19) that was on a pillar, but in a storm the pillar fell over so the climb no longer exists. Also with the pillar no longer there, the route 'No Horizontal Moves' is no longer contrived.

Remember that you are in a National park, don't litter, clean up any rubbish, don't disturb the wildlife and no bolting. It is essential that climbing in this area remains low key.

© (Matt Schimke)

Approach

The cliff is located at the north end of Sunshine beach. Go through the back streets and along to the end of Seaview Terrace and park here. Head north along the beach to the headland. Either walk along the rocks to access or head up the obvious walking track up the hill and take the the track leading down to the cliff.

Routes are listed left to right.

© (Matt Schimke)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
11 The Crazy Canadian Trad 12m

Climb up to the grassy ledge at half height, then blast up the black slab with the crack running up it.

FA: Oliver Rickford, Terry Forbes, 2010

2
18 * Ruby Tuesday Trad 12m

Starting just to the right of TCC, this climbs the blocky and steep arete. Climb up to ledge on right, then tackle the hard step accross move. From here to top.

FA: Matt Schimke

3
18 * Dwarf Shortage Trad 12m

Start 2 metres to the left of Grommet on the slighly overhung face, with an attractive crack at the top. Climb the steep jugs until you pull onto a ledge. Put some bomber gear in then blast up the crack.

FA: Matt Schimke

4
4 Grommet Trad 12m

Chossy climb/scramble up the corner. Some good gear if you want.

FA: Denise Crook, Mark Plerderleith, 1988

5
13 Moon Tan Trad 12m

Climb the face 2 metres to the left of LH, the top has some exciting moves.

FA: Michael and Alistair Byron, 1988

6
12 Lady Hawk Trad 12m

A good beginner lead with enough gear to keep the innocent happy. Start just to the right of arete, and follow weakness slightly left, before trending back right at the top.

FA: Michael and Alastair Byron, 1988

7

Climb up the slab using the horizontal slots. With the pillar gone it is no longer contrived as you cannot bridge on it. Might not have much gear as it was originally done on Toprope.

FA: Michael & Alistair Byrom

8

Climb the thin wispy crack 1m to the left of the arete to a ledge. Place some RP's in left trending track and continue to top.

FA: Mark Plenderleith, Denise Crook, 1988

9

Start on the flat rock at the bottom of the arete, pull on the jugs. Get to ledge and blast up on sidepulls and gastons. Quite serious, as there is no gear in the top half. Originally a TR climb.

FA: Alistair & Michael Byrom

10
V0 * Al's Garage Boulder 3m

Short problem to get warmed up

FA: Oliver Rickford, 2010

11

Start just to the right of arete in steep bulgy crack. Climbs this untill trending slightly right into the Mambo Man crack corner at the top.

FA: Mike Cook, Frank Egyed, 1988

12
21 ** Mambo Man Trad 12m

Climb the left trending jug haul just to the right of MATM, then straight up into a small corner. Look for the small hanging flake at half height. Not much gear in the first half.

FA: Ian Harrison, Mark Plenderleith, 1988

13

Takes the obvious right facing corner above the start of Mambo Man . A bit contrived but if you manage to resist stepping right onto Twisted Sister it has an exciting conclusion.

FA: Ian Harrison, Mark Plenderleith, 1988

14
V0 Washed away Boulder 4m

Campus left to right, starting on a crimp.

FA: Oliver Rickford, 2010

15
16 * Twisted Sister Trad 12m

Climb the slightly overhung crack corner, 1 meter to the left of BTTB.

FA: Mark Plenderleith, Ian Harrison, Denise Crook, 1988

16
16 * Bad To The Bone Trad 11m

Starts 2 meters to the left of Pipeline at crackline. Follow this to top.

FA: Mark Plenderleith, Denise Crook, 1988

17
16 ** Pipeline Trad 12m

Start 1 meter to the left of Cardiac Arete. Follow crackline on brilliant rock to cruxy bulge, then topout to tree belay to the left.

FA: Frank Egyed, Mike Cook, 1988

18
19 ** Cardiac Arête Trad 12m

Climb obvious arete just to the right of Pipeline.

FA: Frank Egyed, Mike Cook, 1988

19

Contrived, straight up the grey wall on the right side of Cardiac Arete to a large break, up right onto ledge. From here to top.

FA: Mark Plenderleith, Michael Freemantle, Ian Harrison, 1988

20
16 ** Break Dance Trad 12m

The beautiful crack corner just to the right of FFTF. Some loose rock on the top out.

21
12 * Redgarten Wall Trad 18m

Straight up the red wall to the right of BD.

22
Seaside project Unknown 10m

As close as you can get to the water. Thin.