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Summary

Adventurous traditional climbing in a great position.

Description

A steep scree sloped gully, with traditionally protected climbing just off the beach. There is lots of loose rock and protection can be sparse. Top access is limited, and experience with traditional anchors and tree belays is essential.

Access issues

Remember that you are in a National park, don't litter, clean up any rubbish, don't disturb the wildlife and no bolting. It is essential that climbing in this area remains minimal impact and low key. The Westpac Helicopter and Surf Life Saving patrol this area, be friendly.

Approach

Go through the back streets and along to the end of Seaview Terrace and park here. Head north along the beach until you reach the Costal Track, follow this track until you see the grassy headland.

After passing a fence and lookout area on the hiking trail, a number of small trails break off towards the right. A steep scramble leads you down to the beach.

Ethic

Trad.

Routes

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Grade Route

Climbs a loose corner beside a thin crack. Protection is mostly good, but the choss is ubiquitous. Be careful. Choosing to lead this route will make you ask questions of yourself. Tree belay far back from ledge.

Hard, thin start which is (just about) protected by some low gear, leads to much easier moves. Potential for ground falls and top out is loose. Make sure you back up the tree belay with trad gear.

The line straight up the middle of the face right of E0.

Arete on the right of E0 slab.

Climbs the prominent ridge on the large protruding buttress right on the beach. The best climbing and best protection is had by starting straight up the steep cracks on the far left of the ridge. Easier, less protected options further right. Peters out to an extremely easy and scenic scramble. Tree belay.

Sit start problem working left along the roof with trickery until powerful moves to top out.

Climbs the compression feature underneath the roof. Sit start with hands either side of the love heart using the crack and arete, compress your way through the roof, mind the swing and finish up a tricky head wall to finish on the ledge. Hard one to grade, the sea spooge definitely adds a grade.

FA: Rhys Phillips, 2016

Activity

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