Devils Kitchen Mostly Trad climbing26 routes in crag
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A cross between Tasmania's Freycinet and Mount Wellington. Super grippy rock from low angle through to overhanging with roofs with great trad protection. A must climb area!
All routes were intended to be climbed as pure crack climbs, hands and feet where possible. Using holds outside the crack will make the climbs as easy as you wish. Variant grades on average are approximately 2 to 3 grades lower, sometimes more. Belay Stations at the base of the cliffs have excellent protection. Sea cliffs are inherently dangerous due to the constant weathering of the rock which can alter the routes from time to time. Minimal cleaning has been done on the routes to maintain minimal impact. Only the necessary loose rock has been removed on the routes. All routes can be lead in the traditional way or belayed from the top if you don’t have the trad gear, skills, or confidence to lead.
Remember that you are in a National park, don't litter, clean up any rubbish, don't disturb the wildlife and no bolting. It is essential that climbing in this area remains minimal impact and low key. The Westpac Helicopter and Surf Life Saving patrol this area, be friendly. An interesting experience climbing while a rescue helicopter watches. This area is not tide dependant as the Devils Cauldron or the Devils Training Ground but it is swell dependant. A 2ft-3ft swell at Sunshine Beach and low wind is fine. If in doubt look at the Sunshine Beach Surf cam. "http://www.coastalwatch.com/camera/cameras_large.aspx?cam=600&state=QLD&camName=Sunshine Beach" In the tidal area depending on swell, wind, and tide the base of these climbs may be wet and extremely slippery. As you get out of the tidal spray area the rock is superb! Even when it wet.
Go through the back streets and along to the end of Seaview Terrace and park here. Head north along the beach until you reach the Costal Track, follow this track until you see the grassy headland. Love those stairs.
Trad, no need for chalk.
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