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Description

The climbs at Devils 'Cauldron' are a bit longer than the climbs at Cooks County and being about 15 degrees overhung. The platform is on the left hand side of the headland

This area has not been fully explored yet so there is potential to find new climbs on this headland with abseil approach on the right hand side.

Remember that you are in a National park, don't litter, clean up any rubbish, don't disturb the wildlife and no bolting. It is essential that climbing in this area remains low key.

© (Oliver.Rickford)

Access issues inherited from Devils Kitchen

Remember that you are in a National park, don't litter, clean up any rubbish, don't disturb the wildlife and no bolting. It is essential that climbing in this area remains minimal impact and low key. The Westpac Helicopter and Surf Life Saving patrol this area, be friendly. An interesting experience climbing while a rescue helicopter watches. This area is not tide dependant as the Devils Cauldron or the Devils Training Ground but it is swell dependant. A 2ft-3ft swell at Sunshine Beach and low wind is fine. If in doubt look at the Sunshine Beach Surf cam. "http://www.coastalwatch.com/camera/cameras_large.aspx?cam=600&state=QLD&camName=Sunshine Beach" In the tidal area depending on swell, wind, and tide the base of these climbs may be wet and extremely slippery. As you get out of the tidal spray area the rock is superb! Even when it wet.

Approach

Devils 'Cauldron' is a crag located North of Cook's County on a headland called Devils Kitchen.

Go through the back streets and along to the end of Seaview Terrace and park here. Head north along the beach until you reach the Costal Track, follow this track until you see the grassy headland (20-30 min). Walk down this to a large dead tree in the middle of the headland. From here turn left and walk to the edge of the cliff. Scramble down a few ledges and from here you can see the wave cut platform from which most of the climbs start.

To get to the platform either abseil from some hexes in a crack/trees or scramble down the ledges on the right hand side of the platform.

Climbs are listed left to right.

© (Oliver.Rickford)

Ethic inherited from Devils Kitchen

Trad, no need for chalk.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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1

Above the left end of the platform a ragged overhang trends up the left. Easily to the start of the overhang and follow this to a short sharp finish.

FA: Mark Plenderleith, Denise Crook, 1988

2
17 Fait Accompli Trad 14m

Above the right hand end of the platform is the prominent black bulge just to the left of the arete. Climb up and through the bulge, then keep to the crack and finish at the tree.

FA: Mark Plenderleith, Denise Crook, 1988

3

Steep climbing on mega holds in a stunning position. From the right edge of the platform traverse out right to the arete and then follow this to finish just right of the tree.

FA: Mark Plenderleith, Denise Crook, 1988

4

Superb climbing up the prominent crack right of GGG. Start up GGG and then at 5m head up right into a corner to a roof. Traverse out right to a juggy crack splitting the bulge. Up this to a little niche and then up and left to finish.

FA: Mark Plenderleith, Denise Crook, 1988