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Description

It may be short (approx. 19m) but it may potentially be some of the best trad crack climbing in QLD. If you want training ground for Tasmanian sea cliffs or dolerite alpine areas this is the place for you, a cross between Freycinet and Mount Wellingtons Organ Pipes. It is super grippy hand trashing rock, not quite as bad as the Tasmanian dolerite though. It has it all, steep to overhanging with plenty of protection. It does not look like much from all angles above but from below look up and the intimidation factor kicks in and messes with your head. All the climbs on this face are a must do.

Access issues inherited from Devils Kitchen

Remember that you are in a National park, don't litter, clean up any rubbish, don't disturb the wildlife and no bolting. It is essential that climbing in this area remains minimal impact and low key. The Westpac Helicopter and Surf Life Saving patrol this area, be friendly. An interesting experience climbing while a rescue helicopter watches. This area is not tide dependant as the Devils Cauldron or the Devils Training Ground but it is swell dependant. A 2ft-3ft swell at Sunshine Beach and low wind is fine. If in doubt look at the Sunshine Beach Surf cam. "http://www.coastalwatch.com/camera/cameras_large.aspx?cam=600&state=QLD&camName=Sunshine Beach" In the tidal area depending on swell, wind, and tide the base of these climbs may be wet and extremely slippery. As you get out of the tidal spray area the rock is superb! Even when it wet.

Descent Notes

Rap from the top or it can be reached via the Devils Pantry. Be warned! pay attention to how much rope you throw over the cliff(approx. 20m should be enough), if the liquid devils tongue grabs it, it can be caught and you will need to cut it, lucky for the very sharp rocks at the belay stations! Also when abseiling down some routes, the last bit you will have to kick off the wall and swing in and hang on or you will be left hanging between the Devils Gullet and the Devils Pantry.

Ethic inherited from Devils Kitchen

Trad, no need for chalk.

History

Started Deveopment early 2012 with crack climbing the main target. There is potential to make some of these lines into very hard face routes.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
17 Devils Spit Trad 19m

As your back is towards the headland, listen for the swells breaking around it and then reaching up the Devils Gullet for your feet. A nice line similar to Eagle Ray Arête.

FA: Keir Gillam, 2012

2

Grade to be confirmed. A very intimidating line from the bottom, sustained overhanging crack route with a layback to get past the roof. A big commitment to start as there is no protection until you are around the bulge and up on the little platforms. If you fall you will end up below your belayer, you shouldn’t hit anything as its overhanging but it will be close to the Devils Pantry Wall. If you do fall time it with the swell for extra cushioning. Once in the finger crack head up to the roof then traverse right. When you look up you will see two cracks, you want the left one. (Crux) layback the left crack to the top and step out to the left. Continue easily to the top

FA: Keir Gillam, 2012

3

Grade needs to be confirmed. A very intimidating line from the bottom, sustained overhanging crack route with commitment to start but once you are going its fantastic moves the whole way in the fist and finger cracks. Start as for How Big Are Yours then straight up the crack.

FA: Keir Gillam, 2012

4

Fantastic climbing straight up finger, fist, and hand cracks to the top.

FA: Keir Gillam, 2012

5

Slightly overhanging with nice solid moves. Head diagonally up to the right until you get to the crack, then jam the cracks to the top.

FA: Keir Gillam, 2012

6
16 Dolphin Pod Trad 19m

Come up the Devils Pantry Crack. Start off by layback then chimney until you can reach the Dolphin Pod crack. Once you have a hand in the crack don’t use the Devils Pantry wall anymore, pull up over little bulge and jam with hands and feet to the top. Short but sweet.

FA: Cris Brazzelli, Keir Gillam, 2012