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It may be short (approx. 19m) but it may potentially be some of the best trad crack climbing in QLD. If you want training ground for Tasmanian sea cliffs or dolerite alpine areas this is the place for you, a cross between Freycinet and Mount Wellingtons Organ Pipes. It is super grippy hand trashing rock, not quite as bad as the Tasmanian dolerite though. It has it all, steep to overhanging with plenty of protection. It does not look like much from all angles above but from below look up and the intimidation factor kicks in and messes with your head. All the climbs on this face are a must do.
Access issues inherited from Devils Kitchen
Remember that you are in a National park, don't litter, clean up any rubbish, don't disturb the wildlife and no bolting. It is essential that climbing in this area remains minimal impact and low key. The Westpac Helicopter and Surf Life Saving patrol this area, be friendly. An interesting experience climbing while a rescue helicopter watches. This area is not tide dependant as the Devils Cauldron or the Devils Training Ground but it is swell dependant. A 2ft-3ft swell at Sunshine Beach and low wind is fine. If in doubt look at the Sunshine Beach Surf cam. "http://www.coastalwatch.com/camera/cameras_large.aspx?cam=600&state=QLD&camName=Sunshine Beach" In the tidal area depending on swell, wind, and tide the base of these climbs may be wet and extremely slippery. As you get out of the tidal spray area the rock is superb! Even when it wet.
Rap from the top or it can be reached via the Devils Pantry. Be warned! pay attention to how much rope you throw over the cliff(approx. 20m should be enough), if the liquid devils tongue grabs it, it can be caught and you will need to cut it, lucky for the very sharp rocks at the belay stations! Also when abseiling down some routes, the last bit you will have to kick off the wall and swing in and hang on or you will be left hanging between the Devils Gullet and the Devils Pantry.
Started Deveopment early 2012 with crack climbing the main target. There is potential to make some of these lines into very hard face routes.