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Description

The name says it all…once through the roof aka the shredder, the angle is less than vertical. Just above the roof is some very sharp rock for hands and rope, be aware!

Access issues inherited from Devils Kitchen

Remember that you are in a National park, don't litter, clean up any rubbish, don't disturb the wildlife and no bolting. It is essential that climbing in this area remains minimal impact and low key. The Westpac Helicopter and Surf Life Saving patrol this area, be friendly. An interesting experience climbing while a rescue helicopter watches. This area is not tide dependant as the Devils Cauldron or the Devils Training Ground but it is swell dependant. A 2ft-3ft swell at Sunshine Beach and low wind is fine. If in doubt look at the Sunshine Beach Surf cam. "http://www.coastalwatch.com/camera/cameras_large.aspx?cam=600&state=QLD&camName=Sunshine Beach" In the tidal area depending on swell, wind, and tide the base of these climbs may be wet and extremely slippery. As you get out of the tidal spray area the rock is superb! Even when it wet.

Descent Notes

Access by abseil down to the big platform

Ethic inherited from Devils Kitchen

Trad, no need for chalk.

Routes

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Grade Route
1

Traverse to the main chimney on the far left. Climb up the chossy chimney.

FA: Cris Brazzelli, 2012

2

Head up the face huging the overhangs. At the last overhangtop out to the right

FA: Sergio Sanchez, 2012

3
17 *** Ogling Osprey Trad 19m

It has it all, overhang, jugs, cracks, thin face...Head up the side of the first roof. Head through the overhang using the jugs and cracks, then move onto the face. Mantle onto the ledge with the pigface. Head straight up on thin face moves to top out.

FA: Cris Brazzelli, Keir Gillam, 2012

4

Grade needs to be confirmed Straight up through the roof aka “the shredder”, extremely committing. After the roof the next bit of gear is not until you reach the crack. Once through the roof easily jam the finger/hand crack all the way to the top.

FA: Keir Gillam, 2012

5

Step right from the platform and follow the intimidating looking arête through the devils teeth to the top. Avoid coming on to the main faces either side. Big winds add another dimension! I cannot stress this enought, go straight up through the overhanging bulges, it is the best and easiest route - refer to photo

FA: Cris Brazzelli, Keir Gillam, 2012