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Table of contents

1. Browns Road 71 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Boulder, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.090703, -33.735400

Description:

Overlooking Upper Lane Cove River in a nice bushland setting this area has a mix of boulder top rope and lead climbs. The area is worth a visit as there is something for everyone. There are numerous possibilities for new moderate sport routes.

Its probably worth mentioning that most of the rock hear has seen some form of climbing at some point. Much of it not recorded. So if you do put up a new route do record the details for future.

Approach:

Park at the end of Browns Rd Wahroonga and head down the track to left. This will bring you to the top of the courtyard. Head down through the gully at the north end of the courtyard.

History:

Recently some names have been mentioned about the origional developers. First ascents include Jon Reilly, who put the first bolts in, Rob Saunders, Hira Verick. Other names mentioned are Mike Myers, Justin Kennedy, Tim O'Neill and Libby Illy.

Many of the courtyard lines were apparently top roped and eventually soloed without crash mats many years back.

In recent years some sport routes went up in a cave down near the aid walls.

2013,2014 saw the replacement and additions of many of the tope rope anchors to back up or replace the manky fixed gear.

Early 2014 and some new easier routes on the lower cliff established with a mixed route approach.

A lot of the lines have old initials at the base.

1.1. Courtyard Area 24 routes in Area

Summary:
Top Rope, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.090636, -33.735629

Description:

The main area of Browns Road. Many hard short climbs with some slabs, cracks and offwidths. Its worth bringing a rack to this area. Many of the worthwhile top rope problems are being equipped as mixed routes and will make a nice area for an afternoon of climbing.

History:

Unknown and sketchy details. If you have any details please update them.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Following routes are on the main wall to your left when coming down decent gully. Most of these routes have bolts for top roping.

1 Dirty Hand Crack

Crack on left when heading down decent gully. Short and dirty and rather worthless.

Trad 8m
2 Open Project 1

1st route on right wall after entering courtyard. Single ring protects the thin start. (still has a red tag on it but remove the tape if you do have a shot. Move up to jugs and horizontals. Up to rounded top out. Small medium cams.

Note this may be an existing high ball. If the bolt impedes on anyone feel for the line or you have an opinion about it please mention it in the chat section.

21Mixed Project 9m, 1
3 JP

Up slab between DHC and CB Has to be in the 22+ range.

Top rope 12m
4 CB

Hand crack to start up, on to block step right then finish up offwidth.

17Trad 10m
5 Fingers & Fists

Thin finger crack to start leading to offwidth. Only requires 2 offwidth moves to top out. Take your big cam on this one.

17Trad 10m
6 K

Up Slab 1m right of FF

Top rope 11m
7 K2

Up slab 1m left of SS. Looks like a reasonable line if it was cleaned and bolted. Any takers out there?

22Top rope 12m
8 * Sexy Sue

The obvious Offwidth half way along main wall. Good line to practise the your offwidth skills on. Can be climbed without the offwidth skills though.

16Trad 10m
9 JR

Up slab between right of SS. Another of those thin slab lines that are the style of this area. Give it a scrub and have a go.

Top rope 10m
10 Sardine

The thin hand crack at the south end of the courtyard. Good gear with some fun climbing.

16Trad 10m
11 * The Cheerful Giver

A delicate route with some interesting moves

Start 3m right of sardine.

Follow bolts up right leaning feature over bulge to finish. 3 bolts to lower offs.

Set by A Batey, 2013

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2014

18Sport 5m

The following routes are located on The Block starting facing in on the north eastern corner of the courtyard. Most routes have dbb or ring bolts on top of the block and can be accessed for top roping if roped up and stepping across. Some routes have Bouldering Grades from Nick Clow and have been duplicated and listed as sport becuase they contain BR's

12 PTTP

Up face past single BR to DBB on top of block. Thin start to sloping holds to gain the top. Lower moves offer some fun bouldering if you can find a partner. To set up top-rope on all routes at The Block u need a sling as DBB (a carrot and a ring) is away from the edge. To abseil down from The Block atm it is better to use a ring between LON and Veronica until a set of rings are bolted.

21Sport 8m, 1
13 LON

Start Marked. Up face past one BR to DBB on top.

21Sport 9m, 1
14 Veronica

The offwidth on the block.

16Trad 10m
15 TO or TC ?

Face climb left of Veronica. Looks to be in the high 20's

Top rope 10m
16 LE

Arete left of TC. Interesting line using the arete. Might be worth equipping.

Top rope
17 * Bolt Free

Face climb on southern end of block. Nice longer route. Looks like it was drilled at some point and not equipped.

Will be bolted in the near future.

21Top rope 12m

Head through the chimney at the northern end of courtyard to reach the following climbs

18 BC

Chimney on west face of block. Natural anchor at top and rap off rings into courtyard. The Usual Chimney style.

13Trad 12m
19 S

Left side of slab on north end of block. Thin sharp but positive holds. Could do with 2 rings in it.

17Top rope 10m
20 T

Another top rope problem on the end of the block. Gets harder with height. Will be nice if it had 2 rings added.

16Top rope 10m

Some of the Bouldering Problems - Wanted these routes moved to the Bouldering section of the guide if possible anyone?

21 * P V3Boulder 6m
22 ** PTT V2Boulder 7m
23 'D'

Chimney / Arete at end of block

V5Boulder 9m
24 * Long Traverse

Start at corner of block. Traverse along past s and t. step across and continue along wall towards YKS wall 10m

V0Boulder

1.2. YKS Wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:
Top Rope, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 151.090709, -33.735461

Description:

A Short wall to the north of the Courtyard.

Approach:

From the courtyard head through the chimney at the northern end turning to your right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The wall to the right after leaving the courtyard has a single route on the northern arete. There is a posibility for 2 or 3 easy mixed routes at grade 13 to 16 on this wall depending on the rounded top out.

1 Thin Crack

The obvious thin crack and north end of first wall. Top roped and would make a nice line if bolted.

15Top rope 7m
2 Nth Arete

Arete at northern end of the first wall. Has a single rusty TR Bolt

Boulder
3 Young Kids on Speed.

Thin Slab 2 BRs to scrapy exit. Would be nice with a clean up of the exit and DBB.

21Sport 12m
4 Friday Arvo

At left end of YKS wall a short face climb. cams in breaks to rounded top out. Needs DBB

FA: A.Batey, 2012

14Trad 10m

1.3. Lower cliff 8 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 151.090711, -33.735316

Description:

Short cliff down the hill from YKS Wall One lonely carrot sits on the top of the arete. Its possible that some of these lines have been soloed in the past. Numerous lines are being cleaned and equipped as mixed routes where possible and will open up some mixed lines under grade 16.

Approach:

From YKS head left down the hill for 10m

History:

A few manky TR bolts at the top of these. Singular bash in carrots seem to be the rage when this place was originally developed.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 May as well solo.

Start in middle of slab on ledge. Un protected bouldery move to start. Up slab using horizontal breaks for gear and follow the natural line. Make sure u take a no1 cam (wild country) DBB at top.

FA: A.Batey, 2014

14Trad 9m
2 Piss Easy

Start right of the arete (left of MAWS). Hard start past a bolt, then up the arete past another bolt and cams to the top. DBB. Bolted by previous party.

FA: Enmoore Lin, 2014

15Trad 10m
3 Arête1

Start about 3 m right of GOM move up over bulges then to arête and head up to single carrot then up to grumpy mans nose and top out. Cams and single bolt. (Still hasn't been led but has had some cleaning and the bolt and is open for a FA). Use same DBB as GOM

14Trad 11m
4 * Grumpy Old Man

Gets it name from the feature at the top looking like an old mans fast. Start in the middle of the slab. Up past two bolts until you reach the horrizontal breaks. Move right to the old mans nose and then up to the top. Small to medium cams. DBB on top

FA: A.Batey, 2014

14Mixed 10m, 2
5 ** Easy chimney

Probably done in the dark ages. The big wide crack, chimney. Up to the top. Plenty of good gear and decent climbing. An easy trad lead. DBB on top walk off.

FA: A.Batey, G.Muraoka, 2014

13Trad 10m
6 ** Project Chris

Up the slab to the left of TA. Thin balance moves with good small pro to a sloper layback top out

Mixed Project 8m, 1
7 Trolls Arete

Start at shallow crack. Up to ledge (bolt will be added to protect start) cams in pockets the up the arête. Thought provoking at the grade but a decent trad lead. DBB on top.

Set by A.Batey

FA: A.batey, G,Muraoka, 2014

16Trad 10m
8 Closed Project 4

Start at shallow crack on wall up past bolts and moving left to thin moves to finish on scoops below rounded top out. Needs lower offs added.

Set by A.Batey

18Sport Project 4

1.4. The High Alley 7 routes in Area

Summary:
Boulder and Unknown

Long/Lat: 151.090800, -33.735153

Description:

Head along from YKS wall you enter an Alley with short walls on either side. The area offers good bouldering and traversing with decent landings.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 A V2Boulder
2 B ??Unknown
3 C ??Unknown
4 D Sit start V1Boulder
5 ** E Sit start V2Boulder
6 F Sit start V5Boulder
7 G Sit start V5Boulder

1.5. TCFTH Area 10 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Aid

Long/Lat: 151.090812, -33.734949

Description:

At the northern end of the cliff. Less then 10m from your car. An Area with good longer Trad, Mixed and Sport Climbs.

(Area is in the process of being re bolted with new stainless hangers and lower off.)

Approach:

Continue along from the high alley or Rap in off the Webbing and D Shackle on tree. (drops you at the base of Climb 1 and Climb 2)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Tuff Cs Fall The Hardest

Right end off wall. Up Crack to slab passing 2 BR, Horizontal Break and up to top. DBB on top.

FA: A.Batey, 2014

17Mixed 16m, 2
2 TCFTH Origional

Up crack head left to FH, up wall past 2nd FH, cam in break and continue to top.

(Will be re bolted with stainless hangers and lower off in September)

19Mixed 3
3 *** Climb 1

Start 3m left of TCFTH. Lay back move to gain horizontal then traverse L to arête, then up to FH on R, and right to scoops, FH on L, (Horizontal for gear and) up on edges to Lower offs (DRB).

There are an another set of DRBs, about 1m above the Lower offs, to rap in if you like. (All bolted with stainless in Sep. 2013)

20Sport 12m, 1
4 ** Climb 2 (project)

Left end of TCFTH wall. Start at shallow crack. Up to FH on R, continue straight up passing an another FH and Lower Offs to share with climb 1.

Sport Project 12m, 2
5 Crack 2

Crack at left end of TCFTH wall. Stemming up to the roof then off to the right. Tree Belay at top.

Trad 15m
6 Bolt Ladder

Line of close space aid bolts up blank wall. Looks like a good place to practise aiding.

A0Aid 13m
7 Left leaning crack

Starts to the left of the bolt ladder on ledge. Warning Loose Blocks. Up natural line of the crack heading left until meeting the finger crack.

(loweroffs will be installed September 2014)

Trad
8 Finger Crack

Start at the thin crack next to the chimney. Up to ledge step left then up nice finger crack to short headwall. (lower offs to be added September 2014)

Trad 12m

Head along and down the hill slightly to the cave. A little overgrown at the base but appear to be nice lines.

Please record a grade for these if you climb them.

9 UB1

Right line of close spaced ubolts through steep section to lower off.

23Sport 12m
10 UB2

Left line of U Bolts. Follows the steep left side of the cave to lower off.

23Sport 12m

Following on from the two sport climbs the bush becomes thick. How ever there are a number of Trad routes down this way. They top out at the back fences of houses above so climbing them is not recomended.

1.6. The Parkway 0 routes in Crag

Description:

Old road cutting in the Parkway. Has a bunch of old lines and some that would be nice for an afternoon out on some longer lines if they were equipped with fresh stainless.

Access Issues:

Park in the cutting in Connenarra Parkway. Step over the access gate and you will see the wall right in front of you.

History:

No details recorded?

1.7. Bouldering - Courtyard, The Block, Environs and other bouldering 18 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

A number of bouldering problems have been done around the area but none recorded more then a letter listed below. Details of boulder problems done in the area would be helpful.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 PPT to Veronica

Traverse from the corner arête to Veronica

Boulder
2 Veronica to Arete

Another Traverse. Start at Veronica and head left to the arete

V2Boulder
3 FF to SS

Another Traverse of the courtyard. Start at FF and head right across the slab to SS

V1Boulder

Walk to the end of the courtyard and turn right. Head down the gap and Orange Boulder will be on your left and the end of spike boulder will be in front of you.

4 Orange boulder left side

Up the left side of jugs and out. Needs a scrub and the crumbly holds knocked off.

V0Boulder
5 Orange boulder right side

Up the right side. careful some weak holds need to be knocked off to make this better

V0Boulder

There are some chipped i steps on the right end of this block that allows decent from the top. number of good problems to be recorded on the right hand cave end in the future. Take a brush have a scrub and try some stuff out.

6 Right End Arete

Sit Start then up arête and top out.

Down climb the cut in steps.

V0Boulder
7 Spike Traverse

Traverse the main wall of the spike boulder.

V0Boulder 1m
8 Left End Cave

Start in the cave. Up on jugs out to a right hand crimp/jug then swing out and up.

V2Boulder

If you turn left at the end of the spike boulder / Block then head up the hill 4 or 5m there is another slab and cave with some easy problems to be had.

9 Sit Start Right

Sit start on the Left then head in to jugs and up and out to sloper on face. Im sure somone can link this up or extend it.

V0Boulder
10 Left arm up.

Start on left of cave. jug to start. foot up to edge then extend let arm up to rail then move left to finish both hands on small edge.

V0Boulder

Unsure of where the routes below exist as they were never really recorded accurately.

11 * A - Sit Start V3Boulder
12 * B V1Boulder
13 * C V2Boulder
14 D - various V0s V0Boulder
15 ** E V6Boulder
16 F V3Boulder
17 G V4Boulder
18 H V4Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
13 BC Trad 12m 1.1. Courtyard Area
** Easy chimney Trad 10m 1.3. Lower cliff
14 Friday Arvo Trad 10m 1.2. YKS Wall
Arête1 Trad 11m 1.3. Lower cliff
* Grumpy Old Man Mixed 10m, 2 1.3. Lower cliff
May as well solo. Trad 9m 1.3. Lower cliff
15 Thin Crack Top rope 7m 1.2. YKS Wall
Piss Easy Trad 10m 1.3. Lower cliff
V0 * Long Traverse Boulder 1.1. Courtyard Area
D - various V0s Boulder 1.7. Bouldering - Courtyard, The Block, Environs and other bouldering
Left arm up. Boulder 1.7. Bouldering - Courtyard, The Block, Environs and other bouldering
Orange boulder left side Boulder 1.7. Bouldering - Courtyard, The Block, Environs and other bouldering
Orange boulder right side Boulder 1.7. Bouldering - Courtyard, The Block, Environs and other bouldering
Right End Arete Boulder 1.7. Bouldering - Courtyard, The Block, Environs and other bouldering
Sit Start Right Boulder 1.7. Bouldering - Courtyard, The Block, Environs and other bouldering
Spike Traverse Boulder 1m 1.7. Bouldering - Courtyard, The Block, Environs and other bouldering
16 Sardine Trad 10m 1.1. Courtyard Area
* Sexy Sue Trad 10m 1.1. Courtyard Area
T Top rope 10m 1.1. Courtyard Area
Veronica Trad 10m 1.1. Courtyard Area
Trolls Arete Trad 10m 1.3. Lower cliff
17 CB Trad 10m 1.1. Courtyard Area
Fingers & Fists Trad 10m 1.1. Courtyard Area
S Top rope 10m 1.1. Courtyard Area
* Tuff Cs Fall The Hardest Mixed 16m, 2 1.5. TCFTH Area
18 * The Cheerful Giver Sport 5m 1.1. Courtyard Area
Closed Project 4 Sport Project 4 1.3. Lower cliff
19 TCFTH Origional Mixed 3 1.5. TCFTH Area
V1 D Sit start Boulder 1.4. The High Alley
* B Boulder 1.7. Bouldering - Courtyard, The Block, Environs and other bouldering
FF to SS Boulder 1.7. Bouldering - Courtyard, The Block, Environs and other bouldering
20 *** Climb 1 Sport 12m, 1 1.5. TCFTH Area
V2 ** PTT Boulder 7m 1.1. Courtyard Area
A Boulder 1.4. The High Alley
** E Sit start Boulder 1.4. The High Alley
* C Boulder 1.7. Bouldering - Courtyard, The Block, Environs and other bouldering
Left End Cave Boulder 1.7. Bouldering - Courtyard, The Block, Environs and other bouldering
Veronica to Arete Boulder 1.7. Bouldering - Courtyard, The Block, Environs and other bouldering
21 * Bolt Free Top rope 12m 1.1. Courtyard Area
LON Sport 9m, 1 1.1. Courtyard Area
Open Project 1 Mixed Project 9m, 1 1.1. Courtyard Area
PTTP Sport 8m, 1 1.1. Courtyard Area
Young Kids on Speed. Sport 12m 1.2. YKS Wall
22 K2 Top rope 12m 1.1. Courtyard Area
V3 * P Boulder 6m 1.1. Courtyard Area
* A - Sit Start Boulder 1.7. Bouldering - Courtyard, The Block, Environs and other bouldering
F Boulder 1.7. Bouldering - Courtyard, The Block, Environs and other bouldering
23 UB1 Sport 12m 1.5. TCFTH Area
UB2 Sport 12m 1.5. TCFTH Area
V4 G Boulder 1.7. Bouldering - Courtyard, The Block, Environs and other bouldering
H Boulder 1.7. Bouldering - Courtyard, The Block, Environs and other bouldering
V5 'D' Boulder 9m 1.1. Courtyard Area
F Sit start Boulder 1.4. The High Alley
G Sit start Boulder 1.4. The High Alley
V6 ** E Boulder 1.7. Bouldering - Courtyard, The Block, Environs and other bouldering
? Dirty Hand Crack Trad 8m 1.1. Courtyard Area
JP Top rope 12m 1.1. Courtyard Area
JR Top rope 10m 1.1. Courtyard Area
K Top rope 11m 1.1. Courtyard Area
LE Top rope 1.1. Courtyard Area
TO or TC ? Top rope 10m 1.1. Courtyard Area
Nth Arete Boulder 1.2. YKS Wall
** Project Chris Mixed Project 8m, 1 1.3. Lower cliff
** Climb 2 (project) Sport Project 12m, 2 1.5. TCFTH Area
? Crack 2 Trad 15m 1.5. TCFTH Area
Finger Crack Trad 12m 1.5. TCFTH Area
Left leaning crack Trad 1.5. TCFTH Area
PPT to Veronica Boulder 1.7. Bouldering - Courtyard, The Block, Environs and other bouldering
?? B Unknown 1.4. The High Alley
C Unknown 1.4. The High Alley
A0 Bolt Ladder Aid 13m 1.5. TCFTH Area