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Description

A small 8-10m high, south facing cliff line set amid peaceful bush land in Harold Reid Reserve, Middle Cove. This crag offers easy to middle grade sport and trad routes in a variety of styles.

© (christo)

Approach

Follow the loop road up and around until a cliff line appears on your right. There's only room for two small cars here so parking is advised back at the top of the loop road where there is also BBQ and toilet facilities. The scramble to the top of the crag is 20 meters back up the loop road from the crag.

© (christo)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
14 Ept Trad 8m

Start: Right end of cliff. Starts below bollard-like lump of rock. Tree belay.

2
14 Rusted Iron Trad 8m

Start: 2m L of Ept

FA: Rhett Hamilton-Smith (solo), 2000

3
15 Kempt Trad 8m

Start: 1m L of 'Rusted Iron', between boulder and wall. DBB.

Up to mantelshelf then up slab.

4

The next step up from mantling at Blues Point.

Start: Beneath the big break 1m L of K.

Make your way up to the break followed by a good introduction to slab. Finish the climb with an easy mantle. Shared DBB with K.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2010

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2010

FFA: Brendon Flanagan, 2011

5
15 Gruntled Trad 10m

Start: Obvious crack L of PYMP4. DBB.

Go up the crack.

6
16 Ringo's Revenge Sport 10m, 2

Start: Just L of crack.

Up wall past 2 decent BR's. Shared DBB with G.

FA: Munch, 1993

7
21 * UK Rootfest Sport 10m

Start: 1m L of Ringo's Revenge.

Up sparsely pocketed wall, past two RB's and then up flake past questionable FH. Chain lower off.

FA: Munch, 1993

8
19 * Enemy of Love Top rope 10m

Start: 3m L 'UK Rootfest' Tree belay. Manky pro.

9
24 Doggie's Dinner Direct Top rope 10m

Start: 4m L of EOL. Up, directly through roof.

Chain lower off set back from the edge. Long sling required to avoid rope drag.

10
23 Doggie's Dinner Top rope 10m

Start: As for DDD. Up and left at roof.

Shared chain lower off with DDD.

11
?(S) A Top rope 10m

Start: 3m L of DD. Pro unusable.

Shares DD chain lower off.

12
23 * Grannies From Hell Top rope 10m

Start: 4m L Doggie's Dinner.

Natural belay from boulder with split.

13
18 * Z Trad 10m

Start: 1m L of GFH.

Can be climbed trad but has new chain lower off set up for toprope. Excellent lay back crack climb and well worth the effort.

14
25 * Spiral Corpse Top rope 10m

Start: 2m L 'Grannies From Hell'

Up arete. Tree belay.

15
26 * Pulpy Kidney Part II Top rope 8m

Start: 20m Left of 'Spiral Corpse'.

Up center of red-streaked wall. Chain lower off.

16
20 Unknown Project 1 Top rope 10m

First climb on the face. good climbing with a fun mantle under the overhang.

17
24 Time Warp Top rope 10m

Start: 20m L Pulpy Kidney Part II.

Up center of yellow wall.

18
21 * Unnameable Arete Top rope 9m

Start: 4m L 'Time Warp'.

Traverse R then up arete to bushes.

19
Unknown Project 2 Top rope 7m
20
23 Cold Chisel Top rope 7m

Start: 2m L Unnamable Arete.

21
13 Hardware Lane Trad 6m

Start: Up crack 2m L 'Cold Chisel'.

22
16 Pervert Street Trad 6m

Start: Up undercut crack 2m L 'Hardware Lane'.

Open trips

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