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Description

A small 8-10m high, south facing cliff line set amid peaceful bush land in Harold Reid Reserve, Middle Cove. This crag offers easy to middle grade sport and trad routes in a variety of styles.

© (christo)

Approach

Follow the loop road up and around until a cliff line appears on your right. There's only room for two small cars here so parking is advised back at the top of the loop road where there is also BBQ and toilet facilities. The scramble to the top of the crag is 20 meters back up the loop road from the crag.

© (christo)

Ethic inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start 5m right of Ept, just R of tree. Tricky start, staying away from flake till its top. Easily up slab.

FA: Daniel Webster, 2014

Start: Right end of cliff. Starts below bollard-like lump of rock. Tree belay.

FA: Michael Law, 1988

Start: 2m L of Ept

FA: Rhett Hamilton-Smith (solo), 2000

Start: 1m L of 'Rusted Iron', between boulder and wall. DBB.

Up to mantelshelf then up slab.

FA: Michael Law, 1988

The next step up from mantling at Blues Point.

Start: Beneath the big break 1m L of K.

Make your way up to the break followed by a good introduction to slab. Finish the climb with an easy mantle. Shared DBB with K.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2010

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2010

FFA: Brendon Flanagan, 2011

Start: Obvious crack L of PYMP4. DBB.

Go up the crack.

FA: Michael Law, 1988

Start: Just L of crack.

Up wall past 2 decent BR's. Shared DBB with G.

FA: Munch, 1993

Start: 1m L of Ringo's Revenge.

Up sparsely pocketed wall, past two RB's and then up flake past questionable FH. Chain lower off.

FA: Munch, 1993

Start: 3m L 'UK Rootfest' Tree belay. Forget the heavily rusted carrots.

Start: 4m L of EOL. Up, directly through roof.

Chain lower off set back from the edge. Long sling required to avoid rope drag.

Start: As for DDD. Up and left at roof.

Shared chain lower off with DDD.

Start: 3m L of DD. Pro unusable.

Shares DD chain lower off.

Start just R of Z.(Original line may have started further R!) Up, passing three (recently replaced) ring bolts and a long reach. Stay out of the crack! Belay is a combination of a hard to spot carrot bolt and the boulder with a split.

FA: Michael Law, 1988

Start: 1m L of GFH.

Can be climbed trad but has new chain lower off set up for toprope. Excellent lay back crack climb and well worth the effort.

Start: 2m L 'Grannies From Hell'

Up arete. Tree belay.

The bolts on this climb are not worth risking.

FA: Michael Law, 1988

The next area is a red streaked wall 20m walk around to the left Spiral Corpse

Start: Up center of red-streaked wall. 2 carrots then chain lower off.

FA: Michael Law, 1988

First climb on the face. good climbing with a fun mantle under the overhang.

The next area is 20m further left and is a obvious overhang.

Start: Up centre of yellow wall.

The BRs on this climb are well past their best.

Start: 4m L 'Time Warp'.

Traverse R then up arete to bushes.

This route has 3 manky BRs, not worth clipping.

FA: Michael Law, 1988

Start: 1m right of UA up to DBB.

Start: 2m L Unnamable Arete.

This route as 2 BRs which are well past their best before date.

Start: Up crack 2m L 'Cold Chisel'.

Start: Up undercut crack 2m L 'Hardware Lane'.

Activity

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