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Table of contents

1. Middle Cove Crag 23 routes in Crag

Top Rope, Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 151.217105, -33.794971

Description:© (christo)

A small 8-10m high, south facing cliff line set amid peaceful bush land in Harold Reid Reserve, Middle Cove. This crag offers easy to middle grade sport and trad routes in a variety of styles.

Approach:© (christo)

Follow the loop road up and around until a cliff line appears on your right. There's only room for two small cars here so parking is advised back at the top of the loop road where there is also BBQ and toilet facilities. The scramble to the top of the crag is 20 meters back up the loop road from the crag.

Ethic: inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Like Christmas Morning

Start 5m right of Ept, just R of tree. Tricky start, staying away from flake till its top. Easily up slab.

FA: Daniel Webster, 2014

17 Top rope 8m
2 Ept

Start: Right end of cliff. Starts below bollard-like lump of rock. Tree belay.

FA: @mikl, 1988

14 Trad 8m
3 Rusted Iron

Start: 2m L of Ept

FA: Rhett Hamilton-Smith (solo), 2000

14 Trad 8m
4 Kempt

Start: 1m L of 'Rusted Iron', between boulder and wall. DBB.

Up to mantelshelf then up slab.

FA: @mikl, 1988

15 Trad 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 * Practice Your Mantle Part 4

The next step up from mantling at Blues Point.

Start: Beneath the big break 1m L of K.

Make your way up to the break followed by a good introduction to slab. Finish the climb with an easy mantle. Shared DBB with K.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2010

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2010

FFA: Brendon Flanagan, 2011

16 Top rope 10m
6 Gruntled

Start: Obvious crack L of PYMP4. DBB.

Go up the crack.

FA: @mikl, 1988

15 Trad 10m
7 * Ringo's Revenge

Start: Just L of crack.

Up wall past 2 decent BR's. Shared DBB with G.

FA: Munch, 1993

16 Sport 10m, 2
8 ** UK Rootfest

Start: 1m L of Ringo's Revenge.

Up sparsely pocketed wall, past two RB's and then up flake past questionable FH. Chain lower off.

FA: Munch, 1993

21 Sport 10m
9 ** Enemy of Love

Start: 3m L 'UK Rootfest' Tree belay. Manky pro.

19 Top rope 10m
10 Doggie's Dinner Direct

Start: 4m L of EOL. Up, directly through roof.

Chain lower off set back from the edge. Long sling required to avoid rope drag.

24 Top rope 10m
11 Doggie's Dinner

Start: As for DDD. Up and left at roof.

Shared chain lower off with DDD.

23 Top rope 10m
12 A

Start: 3m L of DD. Pro unusable.

Shares DD chain lower off.

?(S) Top rope 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 * Grannies From Hell

Start: 4m L Doggie's Dinner.

Natural belay from boulder with split.

FA: @mikl, 1988

23 Top rope 10m
14 * Z

Start: 1m L of GFH.

Can be climbed trad but has new chain lower off set up for toprope. Excellent lay back crack climb and well worth the effort.

18 Trad 10m
15 * Spiral Corpse

Start: 2m L 'Grannies From Hell'

Up arete. Tree belay.

FA: @mikl, 1988

25 Top rope 10m
16 * Pulpy Kidney Part II

Start: 20m Left of 'Spiral Corpse'.

Up center of red-streaked wall. 2 carrots then chain lower off.

FA: @mikl, 1988

26 Top rope 8m
17 Unknown Project 1

First climb on the face. good climbing with a fun mantle under the overhang.

20 Top rope 10m
18 Time Warp

Start: 20m L Pulpy Kidney Part II.

Up center of yellow wall.

24 Top rope 10m
19 ** Unnameable Arete

Start: 4m L 'Time Warp'.

Traverse R then up arete to bushes.

FA: @mikl, 1988

21 Top rope 9m
20 Unknown Project 2 Top rope 7m
21 Cold Chisel

Start: 2m L Unnamable Arete.

23 Top rope 7m
22 Hardware Lane

Start: Up crack 2m L 'Cold Chisel'.

13 Trad 6m
23 Pervert Street

Start: Up undercut crack 2m L 'Hardware Lane'.

16 Trad 6m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
13 Hardware Lane Trad 6m
14 Ept Trad 8m
Rusted Iron Trad 8m
15 Gruntled Trad 10m
Kempt Trad 8m
16 Pervert Street Trad 6m
* Practice Your Mantle Part 4 Top rope 10m
* Ringo's Revenge Sport 10m, 2
17 Like Christmas Morning Top rope 8m
18 * Z Trad 10m
19 ** Enemy of Love Top rope 10m
20 Unknown Project 1 Top rope 10m
21 ** UK Rootfest Sport 10m
** Unnameable Arete Top rope 9m
23 Cold Chisel Top rope 7m
Doggie's Dinner Top rope 10m
* Grannies From Hell Top rope 10m
24 Doggie's Dinner Direct Top rope 10m
Time Warp Top rope 10m
25 * Spiral Corpse Top rope 10m
26 * Pulpy Kidney Part II Top rope 8m
? Unknown Project 2 Top rope 7m
?(S) A Top rope 10m