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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalityTop Rope, Trad and Sport
Long/Lat: 151.217105, -33.794971
- Description:© (christo)
A small 8-10m high, south facing cliff line set amid peaceful bush land in Harold Reid Reserve, Middle Cove. This crag offers easy to middle grade sport and trad routes in a variety of styles.
- Approach:© (christo)
Follow the loop road up and around until a cliff line appears on your right. There's only room for two small cars here so parking is advised back at the top of the loop road where there is also BBQ and toilet facilities. The scramble to the top of the crag is 20 meters back up the loop road from the crag.
- Ethic: inherited from North Shore
Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.
If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.
Like Christmas Morning
Start 5m right of Ept, just R of tree. Tricky start, staying away from flake till its top. Easily up slab.
FA: Daniel Webster, 2014
Start: Right end of cliff. Starts below bollard-like lump of rock. Tree belay.
Start: 2m L of Ept
FA: Rhett Hamilton-Smith (solo), 2000
Start: 1m L of 'Rusted Iron', between boulder and wall. DBB.
Up to mantelshelf then up slab.
Practice Your Mantle Part 4
The next step up from mantling at Blues Point.
Start: Beneath the big break 1m L of K.
Make your way up to the break followed by a good introduction to slab. Finish the climb with an easy mantle. Shared DBB with K.
Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2010
FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2010
FFA: Brendon Flanagan, 2011
Start: Obvious crack L of PYMP4. DBB.
Go up the crack.
Start: Just L of crack.
Up wall past 2 decent BR's. Shared DBB with G.
FA: Munch, 1993
Start: 1m L of Ringo's Revenge.
Up sparsely pocketed wall, past two RB's and then up flake past questionable FH. Chain lower off.
FA: Munch, 1993
Enemy of Love
Start: 3m L 'UK Rootfest' Tree belay. Manky pro.
Doggie's Dinner Direct
Start: 4m L of EOL. Up, directly through roof.
Chain lower off set back from the edge. Long sling required to avoid rope drag.
Start: As for DDD. Up and left at roof.
Shared chain lower off with DDD.
Start: 3m L of DD. Pro unusable.
Shares DD chain lower off.
Grannies From Hell
Start: 4m L Doggie's Dinner.
Natural belay from boulder with split.
Start: 1m L of GFH.
Can be climbed trad but has new chain lower off set up for toprope. Excellent lay back crack climb and well worth the effort.
Start: 2m L 'Grannies From Hell'
Up arete. Tree belay.
Pulpy Kidney Part II
Start: 20m Left of 'Spiral Corpse'.
Up center of red-streaked wall. Chain lower off.
Unknown Project 1
First climb on the face. good climbing with a fun mantle under the overhang.
Start: 20m L Pulpy Kidney Part II.
Up center of yellow wall.
Start: 4m L 'Time Warp'.
Traverse R then up arete to bushes.
|20||Unknown Project 2||7m|
Start: 2m L Unnamable Arete.
Start: Up crack 2m L 'Cold Chisel'.
Start: Up undercut crack 2m L 'Hardware Lane'.
|Practice Your Mantle Part 4||10m|
|17||Like Christmas Morning||8m|
|19||Enemy of Love||10m|
|20||Unknown Project 1||10m|
|Grannies From Hell||10m|
|24||Doggie's Dinner Direct||10m|
|26||Pulpy Kidney Part II||8m|
|?||Unknown Project 2||7m|