A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide.

For more information refer to our Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Middle Cove 22 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Top Rope, Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 151.217105, -33.794971

Description:© (christo)

A small 8-10m high, south facing cliff line set amid peaceful bush land in Harold Reid Reserve, Middle Cove. This crag offers easy to middle grade sport and trad routes in a variety of styles.

Approach:© (christo)

Follow the loop road up and around until a cliff line appears on your right. There's only room for two small cars here so parking is advised back at the top of the loop road where there is also BBQ and toilet facilities. The scramble to the top of the crag is 20 meters back up the loop road from the crag.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ept

Start: Right end of cliff. Starts below bollard-like lump of rock. Tree belay.

14Trad 8m
2 Rusted Iron

Start: 2m L of Ept

FA: Rhett Hamilton-Smith (solo), 2000

14Trad 8m
3 Kempt

Start: 1m L of 'Rusted Iron', between boulder and wall. DBB.

Up to mantelshelf then up slab.

15Trad 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 Practice Your Mantle Part 4

The next step up from mantling at Blues Point.

Start: Beneath the big break 1m L of K.

Make your way up to the break followed by a good introduction to slab. Finish the climb with an easy mantle. Shared DBB with K.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2010

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2010

FFA: Brendon Flanagan, 2011

16Top rope 10m
5 Gruntled

Start: Obvious crack L of PYMP4. DBB.

Go up the crack.

15Trad 10m
6 Ringo's Revenge

Start: Just L of crack.

Up wall past 2 decent BR's. Shared DBB with G.

FA: Munch, 1993

16Sport 10m, 2
7 * UK Rootfest

Start: 1m L of Ringo's Revenge.

Up sparsely pocketed wall, past two RB's and then up flake past questionable FH. Chain lower off.

FA: Munch, 1993

21Sport 10m
8 * Enemy of Love

Start: 3m L 'UK Rootfest' Tree belay. Manky pro.

19Top rope 10m
9 Doggie's Dinner Direct

Start: 4m L of EOL. Up, directly through roof.

Chain lower off set back from the edge. Long sling required to avoid rope drag.

24Top rope 10m
10 Doggie's Dinner

Start: As for DDD. Up and left at roof.

Shared chain lower off with DDD.

23Top rope 10m
11 A

Start: 3m L of DD. Pro unusable.

Shares DD chain lower off.

?(S)Top rope 10m
12 * Grannies From Hell

Start: 4m L Doggie's Dinner.

Natural belay from boulder with split.

23Top rope 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 * Z

Start: 1m L of GFH.

Can be climbed trad but has new chain lower off set up for toprope. Excellent lay back crack climb and well worth the effort.

18Trad 10m
14 * Spiral Corpse

Start: 2m L 'Grannies From Hell'

Up arete. Tree belay.

25Top rope 10m
15 * Pulpy Kidney Part II

Start: 20m Left of 'Spiral Corpse'.

Up center of red-streaked wall. Chain lower off.

26Top rope 8m
16 Unknown Project 1

First climb on the face. good climbing with a fun mantle under the overhang.

20Top rope 10m
17 Time Warp

Start: 20m L Pulpy Kidney Part II.

Up center of yellow wall.

24Top rope 10m
18 * Unnameable Arete

Start: 4m L 'Time Warp'.

Traverse R then up arete to bushes.

21Top rope 9m
19 Unknown Project 2 Top rope 7m
20 Cold Chisel

Start: 2m L Unnamable Arete.

23Top rope 7m
21 Hardware Lane

Start: Up crack 2m L 'Cold Chisel'.

13Trad 6m
22 Pervert Street

Start: Up undercut crack 2m L 'Hardware Lane'.

16Trad 6m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
13 Hardware Lane Trad 6m
14 Ept Trad 8m
Rusted Iron Trad 8m
15 Gruntled Trad 10m
Kempt Trad 8m
16 Pervert Street Trad 6m
Practice Your Mantle Part 4 Top rope 10m
Ringo's Revenge Sport 10m, 2
18 * Z Trad 10m
19 * Enemy of Love Top rope 10m
20 Unknown Project 1 Top rope 10m
21 * UK Rootfest Sport 10m
* Unnameable Arete Top rope 9m
23 Cold Chisel Top rope 7m
Doggie's Dinner Top rope 10m
* Grannies From Hell Top rope 10m
24 Doggie's Dinner Direct Top rope 10m
Time Warp Top rope 10m
25 * Spiral Corpse Top rope 10m
26 * Pulpy Kidney Part II Top rope 8m
? Unknown Project 2 Top rope 7m
?(S) A Top rope 10m