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Description

Big, orange, chalky wave of Sandstone. The obvious main wall is about 30m long.

Useful Info: Sissy is one of the best steep bouldering venues in Sydney. It has been bouldered on for years resulting in some great problems and eliminates. The crag is at its best in winter as in summer the spooge sets in and things can become more than a little greasy. The crag is sheltered during bad weather and whilst many parts stay dry during and immediately after rain, seepage starts a few hours afterwards, so its not the ideal wet weather venue. However, the Travis area always seems to be dry. There are some excellent testpieces here, most of which are short and powerful.

Most problems are done WITHOUT heel hooking, unless specified with "HH". This is how they are graded and described. By all means use your heels, but expect to be the odd one out! (And don't be spraying about how easy you found a "no heels" problem if you heelhooked it!). In the descriptions "L" denotes left-hand, "R" denotes R hand and "M" denotes match, only so far as to help understand where the problem starts (specific holds!) and finishes (always matched!) and as a guide for the easiest (original?) way to do the problem. Feel free to use any sequence (or holds) that you desire in-between.

© (StuartE)

Approach

Turn off Warringah Rd, Forestville, into Ryrie Ave and then take the first left which is Bridgeview Crescent. Park at the end of Bridgeview Crescent and follow the track down the hill just right of the gate. After dropping through the small escarpment the track doubles back to the left along the base, and soon you'll come across a big south-west facing cave, this is it.

© (StuartE)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
28 A Sport 6m
2
26 B Sport 8m
3
25 * C Sport 8m
4
23 * D Sport 8m
5
22 * Vienna Sport 7m
6
21 * E Sport 8m
7

PLease don't do this problem as the holds on Penis cling are getting polished. there are many other warm up problems to be done.

8
V3 The Pest Boulder

FA: gavin portier

9
V9 *** Penis Cling Boulder

L1, R2, L3, R4, M4 A Classic two move wonder.Knock off a grade for using your heel. Has been done going straight up and not using L3. I'm told that it was also done static by Fred Nicole during a visit at V10'ish?

11
V4 ** The Traverse Boulder
13
V9 * Summer Night City Boulder

L5, R6, R7, R8, L7, R9, M9, L10, M10

This not the easiest sequence. Variant use L5 as an undercling and not a pinch - Harder.

14

After the finish of SNC, link into Zac's Highball.

15
V1 Break To Break Boulder

From the jug in the break right of SNC finish up to the slot.

16
V4 Rigid Fist Up Bum Boulder
17

M4, R5, L6, L7 'Campus' problem. Hold the finish for a few seconds for the tick.

FA: Gavin Portier

18

L0, R3, L4, R5, M5

Hard press move made slightly easier by starting using small foothold high and left the start hold. Just keep reaching. Looks unfeasible but works.

19
V10 Silent Bob Boulder
20
21
V5 * World War III Boulder

Traverse leftwards from the sloper next to the chin up bar and finish in the break above BOTD's layaway. Stay below the good holds.

22
V1 Blame 1 Boulder
23
V2 Blame 2 Boulder
24
V3 Blame 3 Boulder
25
V4 Souvalaki Boulder

M6, R7, M7, R8, L9, M9

26
V9 problem of 1993 Boulder

start as for dentalectomy and traverse left on pinches and slopers to finish on the chin up bar

27
V4 * Dentalectomy Boulder

M1, L2, M2, L3, M3, L4, R5, M5

A classic. Harder for shorties.

29
V5 Just One Fix Boulder

Up the slopey features, past the two finger pocket to finish above the warm up start holds. Plenty of eliminates.

30
V6 Gladheateher Boulder
31
V5 Galdheateher var Boulder
32
V3 * Jerk Off Boulder

1,2,7,3,4

33

1,2,3,4

Easier for the tall.

34
V2 Dry Reachin' Boulder

2, 7 (on previous topo)

35
V1 ** Bill Smith Boulder

M5, R6, M6, R7, L3, R4, M4

Nice,juggy warm up.

36
V8 Buffallo Bill Boulder

Start as for 'Bill Smith' but from the huge jug (7) Dyno rightwards to the hold left of Mr Smiley's finish (with the little fern poking out)

37
V1 ** Blinky Bill Boulder

From the eliptical hold on the right of the roof, move left into and finish up 'Bill Smith'.

38
V3 ** Short Circuit Boulder

Move through 'Bill Smith' into 'Blinky Bill' and then back to finish up 'Bill Smith'

39
V5 *** Mr Smiley Boulder

M1, R2, L3, R4, L5, M5, R6, M6 Start low and left with your right in the 3/4 finger pocket and lunge for the first hold. A classic although the start holds are often wet.

40
V4 ** Foam Boulder

L7, R8, R9, M9, R10, M10, R11, L12, M12 - Although the proper finish is two holds higher with the left hand in the good slot. Another classic!

41
V4 * Foam (variant) Boulder
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V6 * Millie Boulder

Link 'Mr Smiley' into Foam at hold 4.

43
V5 Vitamin C var Boulder
44
V6 ** Vitamin C Boulder

M1, R2, M2, R3, M3, R4, M4, R5, M5

Good problem! Hold that last swing.

45
V6 * Vitamin X Boulder

Same as Vitamin C, but eliminate hold 3.

46
47

L6, R7, R8, L9, R10, L4, R5, M5

Classic Sissy toughie. Wait for a cold day. Many ways of doing it. No heels (or it becomes I've Got My Tie On V6)

48

FA: Matt Wrigley

49
V8 Clancy Boulder

FA: Matt Gugel

50
V7 *** Travis Boulder

M11, L12, L10, R4, L13, M13 Another classic. Everyone has their own favourite beta, but good footwork is the key. (Becomes 'Mavis' V8 if both pinches are held before gaining edge 10- 'Contrived' and hard)

51
V10 *** Spooged Boulder

Sit start to travis

52

FA: Sharik Walker

53
V8 * Buge Boulder

From the big flat hold just right of Travis Start move to the undercut just left of the Havana Pinch and pop to the sloper just right of the Detonator finish. (Variant - 'Buge with Cheese' V8 - Keep going up further and further until you can crawl into the scoop made by the big flake. Scary)

FA: Aaron Liu

54
V8 Mavis Boulder
55

M1, R2, R3, L4, M4

A classic but nasty shoulder press - You'll either find it too easy or bloody desperate.

56
V1 * The Pillar Boulder

M5, R6, L3, R7, L8, M8

A nice warm up.

57

Footless problem- Start on the two positive crimps on the lip and then 1,6,3,7,8

58
V7 Homicidal Fly By Boulder

Same as 'The Mind Is a Terrible Thing To Taste' but no matching in the break. Foot-Free problem!

59
V2 * Copo Cabana Boulder

M5, R6, L7, R12, M12

Pretty good.

60
V5 Bongo Slap Boulder

FA: David James

61
V7 ** Stormtrooper Boulder

M9, L10, R11, L12, M12

Frustrating!

FA: David James

62
V10 ** Sista Soulja Boulder

Start on the ultra slopey sloper just above the lip (below 11) then move the right up to a crimp on the next sloper (the left end of the first hold on Verboten) then straight up using 11 (and the hold to its left) to finish in the pockets above hold 12.

63
V8 ** Vietnamese Porn Boulder

Start at the back of the little cave and follow the obvious line of edges to join and finish up 'Sista Soulja'. Heels are in.

64
V3 Moustaffa Boulder
65
V3 ** Verboten Boulder

M1, R2, L3, R4, M4 (HH)

Classic little problem

66
V6 * Liveline Boulder

Start on the big sloper (1) and gain the tiny sloper left of the ear (3) with your right, then make a big move to finish on (4)

67
V5 * Go Granny Go Boulder

Hold the ear (3) with your right and the little slope next to it with your left and punch straight up. (Variant - Go, Granny Slow V4. As above but with your feet over right)

68
V4 Go Granny Slow Boulder

FA: Matt Gugel

69

Start in the roof on two slopey pinches, out to the edge and up.

Body tension is the key. For the tall, its easier to start with your feet over right.

70
V7 ** New World Order Boulder

1,3,11,13,4,9 (on the next topo)

Start on the big slope, get the ear (3) with your left hand and match (11) before dropping down to (13) and traversing the slopers rightwards to finish.

71
V6 ** Pants Off Boulder

Start offthe two edges on the right side of the scoop, crimp your way up avoiding any of the holds on 'The Edge Ladder'. (use a tiny right of the triangle edge). Variant - 'Pants on' V4- Use triangle crimp (10)

72
V4 Pants On Boulder
73
V2 ** The Edge Ladder Boulder

L7, R8, R9, L10, R13, L12, M12

Watch the last move. Just go again with the right. !!!AS AT 16/1/07 - This problem has been damaged with holds 8 and 10 being smashed off. It still goes but at a few grades harder and is certainly not as good.!!

74
V4 Nicky Boulder
76
V3 Nic Boulder

6,3,8,9,5

Very Nice.

77
V5 ** Nicole Boulder

Start on (6) move left to holds (3),(2) and (1) gain the triangle crimp on the Edge Ladder, make a cool move across the scoop to the good edge of 'Verboten' and finish as for 'Verboten'. AS AT 16/1/07 - This problem has been damaged with the triangle hold of the Edge Ladder being smashed off. It has been reclimbed at around V6!!

78
V3 Time Warp Boulder
79
V4 Time Warp var Boulder
80
V4 ** Nuclear winter Boulder

L1, R2, R3, L4, R5, M5

81
V4 ** All Guns Blazing Boulder

L6, R7, L8, L9, R10, M10

Get a swing going.

82
V7 *** Heavens Gate Boulder

Not listed in sydney bouldering Guide, but in online guide @ Australian Bouldering

FA: gavin portier

83
V10 *** Steve Austin Boulder

M1,R2,L3,R4,L2,L5,R6,M6

Whilst made to look easy by some, this is a bicep destroying move. Bring out your big guns.

84
V7 Rampage Boulder

From the starting pockets of Mike's Five, move left into a set of underclings and straight up to finish on the jug, without using the two finger pocket. Hard.

85
V5 ** Mike's Five Boulder

M7,L8,R9,L10,R11,L12,M12

Don't bust a tendon!

86
V6 Depth Charge Boulder

Mike's Five, eliminating the nasty two finger pocket.

87
V7 *** Burst Boulder

R10,L13,R14,L15,M15,L16,M16,L6,M6. The jug in the break is out. Very good sloper traverse. Another to save for a cold day. Has been done footless at V10.

88
V8 ** Bursting Boulder

Link Mike's Five into 'Burst'. Tough but good.

89
V5 John Boulder

Just right of the pockets on Mikes Five is a long not-so good-hold in a little scoop. Start from this and move up and rightwards through an assortment of bad holds to finish in the break where the vegetation grows.

90
V3 Too Long To Lick Boulder

Start matched on the lip approx 2m right of John in a little cluster of pockets and make big move up and right to a good jug.

91

Start matched on the slopey legde 1m or so right of TLTL and move up through the pockets on the right before moving left to the jug on TLTL.

92

Start below 'The Sexy Wall Traverse' and undercling out the roof, straight up through the huge pockets. Can be done footless at V2

94

Starting on huge pocket jugs on the lip approx 3m right of ITSFMC, traverse the wall rightwards finishing on the holds above Mikes Five. 'Excellent'

95
V8 Pork Platter Boulder
97
UK E4 6c *** Slabia Majora Trad 7m

FA: Gavin Porter

98
UK E1 6a *** Slabia Minora Trad 6m

FA: Steve Jones / Gavin Portier

99
V5 Dan-De-Lion Boulder

Just left of 'Penis Cling' start on the juggy ledge and continues up the slopey arete.

100
V4 ** Nicky (HH) Boulder

Start as for the Edge Ladder but move left after gaining the triangle crimp (10) to finish up 'Verboten'. AS AT 16/1/07 - This problem has been damaged.

101
V9 *** Not for Sissies Boulder

Dyno - Either double or one handed. From the chin up bar (9) hurl yourelf to the obvious flat hold 7ft up. Get a good spot and watch the landing zone. The undercling is out.

102

From just left of the chin up bar traverse all the way along rightwards to finish on the jug left of 'Dentalectomy', using some terrible slopers along the way.

103
V10 Buge Re-gurgitated Boulder

Link into and finish up Buge.

104
V6 Unknown Boulder

1,2,10,11,12

Cool problem I got shown by someone. Probably been done many times before. Heels are in.

105
V6 Glad-he-ater Boulder

M5, L6, R7, M7

Can also be done as a dyno without using the crappy arete pinch (6) at a slighty easier grade.

106
V4 * Hotel California Boulder

Start as for the Edge Ladder but from the triangle crimp move to 3,4,5. AS AT 16/1/07 - This problem has been damaged.

107
V9 Penis Extension Boulder

Start as for 'Penis Cling' but continue from the jug and finish 4m up on the obvious ramp.

108

1,2,7,3,8

Can't remember who showed me this, but a very cool momentum move. You'll probably find yourself trying to catch (3) on the move.

109
V6 Zac's Highball Boulder

Start up just right of 'Summer Night City' and move right through a series of two finger pockets before finishing at an obvious jug above 'The House With No Steps' with a fern stuck in it.

110
V9 *** Silent Bob (HH) Boulder

M1, R2, L3, M3, R4, L5, M5

'Fantastic' problem. Watch that final swing. Unfortunately the second hold (R2)is often wet. Can and has been extended.

111
V10 *** Re-Detonated Boulder

Link into and finish up 'Hands Off My Detonator'

112
V0 Warm Up Boulder

M1, L2, R3, L4, M4

113

M1, L2, R3, L4, M4

Kneebar/heel helps.

114
V3 * Funky Mantle Boulder

Using holds (4) and (9) and a small undercut/sidepull on the back wall, mantle into and sit in the scoop. Probably been done many times before.