Sissy Crag Mostly bouldering125 routes in cliff
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Big, orange, chalky wave of Sandstone. The obvious main wall is about 30m long.
Useful Info: Sissy is one of the best steep bouldering venues in Sydney. It has been bouldered on for years resulting in some great problems and eliminates. The crag is at its best in winter as in summer the spooge sets in and things can become more than a little greasy. The crag is sheltered during bad weather and whilst many parts stay dry during and immediately after rain, seepage starts a few hours afterwards, so its not the ideal wet weather venue. However, the Travis area always seems to be dry. There are some excellent testpieces here, most of which are short and powerful.
Most problems are done WITHOUT heel hooking, unless specified with "HH". This is how they are graded and described. By all means use your heels, but expect to be the odd one out! (And don't be spraying about how easy you found a "no heels" problem if you heelhooked it!). In the descriptions "L" denotes left-hand, "R" denotes R hand and "M" denotes match, only so far as to help understand where the problem starts (specific holds!) and finishes (always matched!) and as a guide for the easiest (original?) way to do the problem. Feel free to use any sequence (or holds) that you desire in-between.© (StuartE)
Turn off Warringah Rd, Forestville, into Ryrie Ave and then take the first left which is Bridgeview Crescent. Park at the end of Bridgeview Crescent and follow the track down the hill just right of the gate. After dropping through the small escarpment the track doubles back to the left along the base, and soon you'll come across a big south-west facing cave, this is it.© (StuartE)
Ethic inherited from North Shore
Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.
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Start on the far left rail and traverse all the way to the chin-up bar. Finishing with both hands matched.
Sit start. Then power your way up the right hand side of the penis cling. Fun
Probably impossible to repeat as LeBrenton's exact and undoubtedly desperate sequence been lost into obscurity. It's known to be underglinged all the way to the top using the hardest method known to man and is said to be a Crag Classic.
M1, L2, R3, L4, M4
M4, R5, L6, L7 'Campus' problem. Hold the finish for a few seconds for the tick.
FA: Gavin Portier
L0, R3, L4, R5, M5
Hard press move made slightly easier by starting using small foothold high and left the start hold. Just keep reaching. Looks unfeasible but works.
M1, R2, L3, M3, R4, L5, M5
'Fantastic' problem. Watch that final swing. Unfortunately the second hold (R2)is often wet. Can and has been extended.
Traverse leftwards from the sloper next to the chin up bar and finish in the break above BOTD's layaway. Stay below the good holds.
Dyno - Either double or one handed. From the chin up bar (9) hurl yourelf to the obvious flat hold 7ft up. Get a good spot and watch the landing zone. The undercling is out.
M6, R7, M7, R8, L9, M9
Start as for Dentalectomy and traverse left on pinches and slopers to finish on the chin up bar.
As for Dentalectomy until THE slopers below the last jug. Keep moving left to top at the next jug. As usual, no heels.
M1, L2, M2, L3, M3, L4, R5, M5
A classic. Harder for shorties.
Up the slopey features, past the two finger pocket to finish above the warm up start holds. Plenty of eliminates.