Sissy Crag Mostly bouldering114 routes in cliff
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Big, orange, chalky wave of Sandstone. The obvious main wall is about 30m long.
Useful Info: Sissy is one of the best steep bouldering venues in Sydney. It has been bouldered on for years resulting in some great problems and eliminates. The crag is at its best in winter as in summer the spooge sets in and things can become more than a little greasy. The crag is sheltered during bad weather and whilst many parts stay dry during and immediately after rain, seepage starts a few hours afterwards, so its not the ideal wet weather venue. However, the Travis area always seems to be dry. There are some excellent testpieces here, most of which are short and powerful.
Most problems are done WITHOUT heel hooking, unless specified with "HH". This is how they are graded and described. By all means use your heels, but expect to be the odd one out! (And don't be spraying about how easy you found a "no heels" problem if you heelhooked it!). In the descriptions "L" denotes left-hand, "R" denotes R hand and "M" denotes match, only so far as to help understand where the problem starts (specific holds!) and finishes (always matched!) and as a guide for the easiest (original?) way to do the problem. Feel free to use any sequence (or holds) that you desire in-between.© (StuartE)
Turn off Warringah Rd, Forestville, into Ryrie Ave and then take the first left which is Bridgeview Crescent. Park at the end of Bridgeview Crescent and follow the track down the hill just right of the gate. After dropping through the small escarpment the track doubles back to the left along the base, and soon you'll come across a big south-west facing cave, this is it.© (StuartE)
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Start matched on the lip approx 2m right of John in a little cluster of pockets and make big move up and right to a good jug.
Start below 'The Sexy Wall Traverse' and undercling out the roof, straight up through the huge pockets. Can be done footless at V2
Starting on huge pocket jugs on the lip approx 3m right of ITSFMC, traverse the wall rightwards finishing on the holds above Mikes Five. 'Excellent'
FA: Gavin Porter
FA: Steve Jones / Gavin Portier
Just left of 'Penis Cling' start on the juggy ledge and continues up the slopey arete.
Start as for the Edge Ladder but move left after gaining the triangle crimp (10) to finish up 'Verboten'. AS AT 16/1/07 - This problem has been damaged.
Dyno - Either double or one handed. From the chin up bar (9) hurl yourelf to the obvious flat hold 7ft up. Get a good spot and watch the landing zone. The undercling is out.
From just left of the chin up bar traverse all the way along rightwards to finish on the jug left of 'Dentalectomy', using some terrible slopers along the way.
Cool problem I got shown by someone. Probably been done many times before. Heels are in.
M5, L6, R7, M7
Can also be done as a dyno without using the crappy arete pinch (6) at a slighty easier grade.
Start as for the Edge Ladder but from the triangle crimp move to 3,4,5. AS AT 16/1/07 - This problem has been damaged.
Start as for 'Penis Cling' but continue from the jug and finish 4m up on the obvious ramp.
Can't remember who showed me this, but a very cool momentum move. You'll probably find yourself trying to catch (3) on the move.
M1, R2, L3, M3, R4, L5, M5
'Fantastic' problem. Watch that final swing. Unfortunately the second hold (R2)is often wet. Can and has been extended.
M1, L2, R3, L4, M4
M1, L2, R3, L4, M4
Using holds (4) and (9) and a small undercut/sidepull on the back wall, mantle into and sit in the scoop. Probably been done many times before.