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Description

This area is all about 'Crumbly' ... but there are a few other minor scraps of rock here too.

© (StuartE)

Approach

Park opposite 106 Kilarney Drive. Head down the path in the rocks and take a right when you reach the intersection. About 100m along and you'll see a track back up the hill into the cave.

© (StuartE)

Ethic inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
V6 Nasty Boulder

Start on two underclings at the far left side. Make a big move and head up and slightly left to finish. Don't dab the tree! Not great.

FA: D.Kellerman, 2000

2

Start as for Nasty but continue up passed its finishing holds and traverse high and right to end up on the finish holds of genesis

3
V11 Urban Koala Boulder 4m

FA: Tom Farrell

4
V13 *** Genesis Boulder

Start on the big flake jug and make a very tough move up using the tiny crimp. A heel thrown onto the rail of 'Sushi Train' appears to help.

FA: D.Kellerman, 2000

5
V13 Genius Boulder

Start 'Abacus' finish 'Genesis'.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2008

6
V13 to V14 Catalyst Boulder

"9 moves all up. Hard to grade." Mushi Brain finishing up Genesis

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2007

7
V8 *** Sushi Train Boulder

Start on the big undercling with your feet on the back wall and blast straight up, finishing matched on the huge jug left of the spike. Crafty toe-hooks are the key.

FA: S.Langris/T.O'Neill, 2000

9
V11 *** Mushi Brain Boulder

Start as for Nasty and make big moves out rightwards, finishing up 'Sushi Train'. Pumpy.

FA: T O'Neill, 2000

10
V12 Phlegm Boulder

Link 'Mushi Brain' into the last two moves of 'Abacus'

FA: J.Scarborough, 2000

11
V12 *** Abacus Boulder

Start on the undercling just right of Sushi Train's start and power up using the obvious poor pinch.

FA: T.O'Neill, 2000

12
V10 Abacus(stand) Boulder

Standing Start

FA: T.O'Neill, 2000

13

Extension to 'Abacus'. Need some spotters and mats for this one, its high and dynamic moves above your spotters heads.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2008

14
V13 Sugoi Boulder

Links 'Mushi Brain' into start of 'Abacus'.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2007

15
V14 to V15 Progressive Aggression Boulder

'Sugoi' into 'Logical Progression'.

Or start 'Mushi Brain' into 'Abacus' finishing high.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2008

16
V11 ** Life changes Boulder

Start as for Sushi Train, then traverse backwards through Mushi Brain to finish up Nasty.

17
V10 *** Chaos and Disorder Boulder

Start of the underclings and make some bizarre contortions (including doing a full 180 degree spin) through the roof. Probably one of the coolest and most unique problems in Sydney.

FA: D.Kellerman, 2000

18
V8 *** Black Magic Boulder

Start on the big undercling in front of 'Mull up'. Launch out through the roof and link into the last few moves of 'Anorexic'. Double toe-hooks are the trick for the funky 'drop down' move.

FA: M.Kellerman, 2000

19
V9 *** Blacker Magic Boulder

Link 'Black Magic' into the finish of 'Exodus'.

20
V8 White magic Boulder
21
V5 *** Anorexic Boulder

The warm up. And one of the best problems of this grade & style. Start at the back wall and pull straight out the roof, passing the big hole, make a long throw and finish MATCHED on the huge jug. Hold that swing!

FA: T.O'Neill, 2000

22

After reaching the finishing jug, keep going a few moves further and finish on an even higher jug, up and left of the spike on 'Exodus'. Scary!

23

Link the Traverse into 'Anorexic' and finish as for the 'Anorexic' extension. V7' ish but probably deserves a sport grade.

24
V10 Exodus Boulder

Start slighty right of 'Anorexic'. Move through the roof with your hands staying clear of the holds on 'Anorexic' although your feet may stray over. Keep going past the old bolt and slap up the sloping prow to finish on the the big spike. Unrepeated since a hold broke?

FA: T.O'Neill, 2000

25
V8 ** Anorexodus Boulder

Link 'Anorexic' into the finish of 'Exodus'.

26
V6 The Traverse Boulder

Start a few metres right (just before the rock gets bad) and traverse left into the start of 'Anorexic'.

FA: T.O'neill, 2000

27
V5 Genicus Boulder

Low start on crimp rail straight up to finish matched on slopey rail. Cleaned up nicely.

FA: marc landers, 27th Jan

28

Start at Genicus and go up through crimp rail to slopey rail. Traverse rightwards till the holds end then make a big move out to jug in the roof.

FA: Phil Neville, 27th Jan

29
V10 Leviticus Boulder

Sit start on an incut RH crimp and LH slopey crimp. Go up to the break and traverse right to the big bucket jug. Head straight out the roof to the last jug via some big spans.

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

30
V12 The Prow Boulder

FA: CWP

31
V3 Get down on it Boulder
32

A sit start problem near the bottom of the dicey access gully

FA: Kyle Dunsire, 2000

Open trips

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