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Description

This area is all about 'Crumbly' ... but there are a few other minor scraps of rock here too.

© (StuartE)

Approach

Park opposite 106 Kilarney Drive. Head down the path in the rocks and take a right when you reach the intersection. About 100m along and you'll see a track back up the hill into the cave.

© (StuartE)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V6 Nasty Boulder

Start as for 'Mushi Brain' but break out left and don't dab the tree! Not great.

FA: D.Kellerman, 2000

2
V11 Urban Koala Boulder 4m

FA: Tom Farrell

3

an old school problem rediscovered

4
V11 *** Mushi Brain Boulder

Start on two underclings in the corner and make big moves out rightwards, finishing up 'Sushi Train'. Pumpy.

FA: T O'Neill, 2000

5
V13 Sugoi Boulder

Links 'Mushi Brain' into start of 'Abacus'.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2007

6
V14 to V15 Progressive Aggression Boulder

'Sugoi' into 'Logical Progression'.

Or start 'Mushi Brain' into 'Abacus' finishing high.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2008

7
V12 Phlegm Boulder

Link 'Mushi Brain' into the last two moves of 'Abacus'

FA: J.Scarborough, 2000

8
V13 *** Genesis Boulder

Start on the big flake jug and make a very tough move up using the tiny crimp. A heel thrown onto the rail of 'Sushi Train' appears to help.

FA: D.Kellerman, 2000

9
V8 *** Sushi Train Boulder

Start on the big undercling with your feet on the back wall and blast straight up, finishing matched on the huge jug left of the spike. Crafty toe-hooks are the key.

FA: S.Langris/T.O'Neill, 2000

11
V11 ** Life changes Boulder

Start as for Sushi Train, then traverse backwards through Mushi Brain to finish up Nasty.

12
V13 Genius Boulder

Start 'Abacus' finish 'Genesis'.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2008

13
V12 *** Abacus Boulder

Start on the undercling just right of Sushi Train's start and power up using the obvious poor pinch.

FA: T.O'Neill, 2000

14
V10 Abacus(stand) Boulder

Standing Start

FA: T.O'Neill, 2000

15

Extension to 'Abacus'. Need some spotters and mats for this one, its high and dynamic moves above your spotters heads.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2008

16
V10 *** Chaos and Disorder Boulder

Start of the underclings and make some bizarre contortions (including doing a full 180 degree spin) through the roof. Probably one of the coolest and most unique problems in Sydney.

FA: D.Kellerman, 2000

17
V8 ** Black Magic Boulder

Start on the big undercling in front of 'Mull up'. Launch out through the roof and link into the last few moves of 'Anorexic'. Double toe-hooks are the trick for the funky 'drop down' move.

FA: M.Kellerman, 2000

18
V9 *** Blacker Magic Boulder

Link 'Black Magic' into the finish of 'Exodus'.

19
V8 White magic Boulder
20
V5 *** Anorexic Boulder

The warm up. And one of the best problems of this grade & style. Start at the back wall and pull straight out the roof, passing the big hole, make a long throw and finish MATCHED on the huge jug. Hold that swing!

FA: T.O'Neill, 2000

21

After reaching the finishing jug, keep going a few moves further and finish on an even higher jug, up and left of the spike on 'Exodus'. Scary!

22
V10 Exodus Boulder

Start slighty right of 'Anorexic'. Move through the roof with your hands staying clear of the holds on 'Anorexic' although your feet may stray over. Keep going past the old bolt and slap up the sloping prow to finish on the the big spike. Unrepeated since a hold broke?

FA: T.O'Neill, 2000

23
V8 ** Anorexodus Boulder

Link 'Anorexic' into the finish of 'Exodus'.

24

Link the Traverse into 'Anorexic' and finish as for the 'Anorexic' extension. V7' ish but probably deserves a sport grade.

25
V6 The Traverse Boulder

Start a few metres right (just before the rock gets bad) and traverse left into the start of 'Anorexic'.

FA: T.O'neill, 2000

26
V3 Get down on it Boulder
27

A sit start problem near the bottom of the dicey access gully

FA: Kyle Dunsire, 2000

28
V13 to V14 Catalyst Boulder

"9 moves all up. Hard to grade."

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2007

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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