Crumbly All bouldering33 routes in crag
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The cave faces SSW so it never actually gets the sun on it making it great for summer and winter alike. The cave is so large that it never gets wet in the rain but it does seep occasionally. While there is one "crumbly" section of rock the majority of the crag is some of the best quality sandstone in Sydney. There are lovely sandy landings under every problem but beware of the broken glass - the sand has been completely raked twice by the developers but local hooligans ensure it returns every time!© (StuartE)
Turn into Starkey St, Killarney Heights, off Warringah Rd and follow it for about a km then turn right into Connemara Rd. At the end turn right again into Killarney Dr, follow it for 100m and park on the grass on the left at the top of the Mosman Rowing Club steps. Follow these steps down for about 50m to the Flat Rock walking track and turn right along the track. After about 50m you'll see the headwall of a big cave up on your right and a faint track heading up the hill to it. This is it.
There are more direct paths that can be taken from the parking but with a crashpad they are pretty dangerous so the above approach is suggested.© (StuartE)
Ethic inherited from North Shore
Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.
If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.
Crumbly was first developed as a climbing crag by Peter Martin et al but they overlooked the big horizontal roof starts to all the routes opting for cheater stones and jump starts. It was so named because of a large crumbly section on the right where there was no climbing possible. Then Mike and Dave Kellermann independently discovered the crag on one of their regular boat trips up middle harbour and with the help of Tim O'Neill they realised the potential it held for great boulder problems. There are about 10 problems now ranging from V5 to V13. All the problems are steep and the best are actually horizontal - Chaos and Disorder V11? and Anorexic V5 are arguably the best problems for their style and grade in Sydney!© (StuartE)
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Start of the underclings and make some bizarre contortions (including doing a full 180 degree spin) through the roof. Probably one of the coolest and most unique problems in Sydney.
FA: D.Kellerman, 2000
Start on the big undercling in front of 'Mull up'. Launch out through the roof and link into the last few moves of 'Anorexic'. Double toe-hooks are the trick for the funky 'drop down' move.
FA: M.Kellerman, 2000
Anorexic finishing on the start hold of Black Magic
The warm up. And one of the best problems of this grade & style. Start at the back wall and pull straight out the roof, passing the big hole, make a long throw and finish MATCHED on the huge jug. Hold that swing!
FA: T.O'Neill, 2000
After reaching the finishing jug, keep going a few moves further and finish on an even higher jug, up and left of the spike on 'Exodus'. Scary!
Start a few metres right (just before the rock gets bad) and traverse left into the start of 'Anorexic'.
FA: T.O'neill, 2000
Low start on crimp rail straight up to finish matched on slopey rail. Cleaned up nicely.
FA: marc landers, 2015
Sit start on an incut RH crimp and LH slopey crimp. Go up to the break and traverse right to the big bucket jug. Head straight out the roof to the last jug via some big spans.
FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis
FA: Chris Webb Parsons
Sit start on undercling. Finish matched on sloper to right.
A sit start problem near the bottom of the dicey access gully
FA: Kyle Dunsire, 2000