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Table of contents

1. Crumbly 32 routes in Crag

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.215637, -33.779884

Description:© (StuartE)

This area is all about 'Crumbly' ... but there are a few other minor scraps of rock here too.

Approach:© (StuartE)

Park opposite 106 Kilarney Drive. Head down the path in the rocks and take a right when you reach the intersection. About 100m along and you'll see a track back up the hill into the cave.

Ethic: inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Nasty

Start on two underclings at the far left side. Make a big move and head up and slightly left to finish. Don't dab the tree! Not great.

FA: D.Kellerman, 2000

V6 Boulder
2 Reading Between The Lines

Start as for Nasty but continue up passed its finishing holds and traverse high and right to end up on the finish holds of genesis

V8 Boulder
3 Urban Koala

FA: Tom Farrell

V11 Boulder 4m
4 *** Genesis

Start on the big flake jug and make a very tough move up using the tiny crimp. A heel thrown onto the rail of 'Sushi Train' appears to help.

FA: D.Kellerman, 2000

V13 Boulder
5 Genius

Start 'Abacus' finish 'Genesis'.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2008

V13 Boulder
6 Catalyst

"9 moves all up. Hard to grade." Mushi Brain finishing up Genesis

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2007

V13 to V14 Boulder
7 *** Sushi Train

Start on the big undercling with your feet on the back wall and blast straight up, finishing matched on the huge jug left of the spike. Crafty toe-hooks are the key.

FA: S.Langris/T.O'Neill, 2000

V8 Boulder
8 Sushi Train (Standing start) V6 Boulder
9 *** Mushi Brain

Start as for Nasty and make big moves out rightwards, finishing up 'Sushi Train'. Pumpy.

FA: T O'Neill, 2000

V11 Boulder
10 Phlegm

Link 'Mushi Brain' into the last two moves of 'Abacus'

FA: J.Scarborough, 2000

V12 Boulder
11 *** Abacus

Start on the undercling just right of Sushi Train's start and power up using the obvious poor pinch.

FA: T.O'Neill, 2000

V12 Boulder
12 Abacus(stand)

Standing Start

FA: T.O'Neill, 2000

V10 Boulder
13 Logical Progression

Extension to 'Abacus'. Need some spotters and mats for this one, its high and dynamic moves above your spotters heads.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2008

V13 Boulder
14 Sugoi

Links 'Mushi Brain' into start of 'Abacus'.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2007

V13 Boulder
15 Progressive Aggression

'Sugoi' into 'Logical Progression'.

Or start 'Mushi Brain' into 'Abacus' finishing high.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2008

V14 to V15 Boulder
16 ** Life changes

Start as for Sushi Train, then traverse backwards through Mushi Brain to finish up Nasty.

V11 Boulder
17 *** Chaos and Disorder

Start of the underclings and make some bizarre contortions (including doing a full 180 degree spin) through the roof. Probably one of the coolest and most unique problems in Sydney.

FA: D.Kellerman, 2000

V10 Boulder
18 *** Black Magic

Start on the big undercling in front of 'Mull up'. Launch out through the roof and link into the last few moves of 'Anorexic'. Double toe-hooks are the trick for the funky 'drop down' move.

FA: M.Kellerman, 2000

V8 Boulder
19 *** Blacker Magic

Link 'Black Magic' into the finish of 'Exodus'.

V9 Boulder
20 White magic V8 Boulder
21 *** Anorexic

The warm up. And one of the best problems of this grade & style. Start at the back wall and pull straight out the roof, passing the big hole, make a long throw and finish MATCHED on the huge jug. Hold that swing!

FA: T.O'Neill, 2000

V5 Boulder 4m
22 ** Anorexic (Extension)

After reaching the finishing jug, keep going a few moves further and finish on an even higher jug, up and left of the spike on 'Exodus'. Scary!

V7 Boulder
23 ** The Monster Anorexic Link

Link the Traverse into 'Anorexic' and finish as for the 'Anorexic' extension. V7' ish but probably deserves a sport grade.

V7 Boulder
24 Exodus

Start slighty right of 'Anorexic'. Move through the roof with your hands staying clear of the holds on 'Anorexic' although your feet may stray over. Keep going past the old bolt and slap up the sloping prow to finish on the the big spike. Unrepeated since a hold broke?

FA: T.O'Neill, 2000

V10 Boulder
25 ** Anorexodus

Link 'Anorexic' into the finish of 'Exodus'.

V8 Boulder
26 The Traverse

Start a few metres right (just before the rock gets bad) and traverse left into the start of 'Anorexic'.

FA: T.O'neill, 2000

V6 Boulder
27 Genicus

Low start on crimp rail straight up to finish matched on slopey rail. Cleaned up nicely.

FA: @landers, 2015

V5 Boulder
28 Genicus Copernicus

Start at Genicus and go up through crimp rail to slopey rail. Traverse rightwards till the holds end then make a big move out to jug in the roof.

FA: @phil_nev, 2015

V5 Boulder
29 Leviticus

Sit start on an incut RH crimp and LH slopey crimp. Go up to the break and traverse right to the big bucket jug. Head straight out the roof to the last jug via some big spans.

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

V10 Boulder
30 The Prow


V12 Boulder
31 Get down on it V3 Boulder
32 *** Give it to me baby

A sit start problem near the bottom of the dicey access gully

FA: Kyle Dunsire, 2000

V3 Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
V3 Get down on it Boulder
*** Give it to me baby Boulder
V5 *** Anorexic Boulder 4m
Genicus Boulder
Genicus Copernicus Boulder
V6 Nasty Boulder
Sushi Train (Standing start) Boulder
The Traverse Boulder
V7 ** Anorexic (Extension) Boulder
** The Monster Anorexic Link Boulder
V8 ** Anorexodus Boulder
*** Black Magic Boulder
Reading Between The Lines Boulder
*** Sushi Train Boulder
White magic Boulder
V9 *** Blacker Magic Boulder
V10 Abacus(stand) Boulder
*** Chaos and Disorder Boulder
Exodus Boulder
Leviticus Boulder
V11 ** Life changes Boulder
*** Mushi Brain Boulder
Urban Koala Boulder 4m
V12 *** Abacus Boulder
Phlegm Boulder
The Prow Boulder
V13 *** Genesis Boulder
Genius Boulder
Logical Progression Boulder
Sugoi Boulder
V13 to V14 Catalyst Boulder
V14 to V15 Progressive Aggression Boulder