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Table of contents

1. Crumbly 34 routes in Crag

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.215637, -33.779884

Description:© (StuartE)

The cave faces SSW so it never actually gets the sun on it making it great for summer and winter alike. The cave is so large that it never gets wet in the rain but it does seep occasionally. While there is one "crumbly" section of rock the majority of the crag is some of the best quality sandstone in Sydney. There are lovely sandy landings under every problem but beware of the broken glass - the sand has been completely raked twice by the developers but local hooligans ensure it returns every time!

Approach:© (StuartE)

Turn into Starkey St, Killarney Heights, off Warringah Rd and follow it for about a km then turn right into Connemara Rd. At the end turn right again into Killarney Dr, follow it for 100m and park on the grass on the left at the top of the Mosman Rowing Club steps. Follow these steps down for about 50m to the Flat Rock walking track and turn right along the track. After about 50m you'll see the headwall of a big cave up on your right and a faint track heading up the hill to it. This is it.

There are more direct paths that can be taken from the parking but with a crashpad they are pretty dangerous so the above approach is suggested.

Ethic: inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

History:© (StuartE)

Crumbly was first developed as a climbing crag by Peter Martin et al but they overlooked the big horizontal roof starts to all the routes opting for cheater stones and jump starts. It was so named because of a large crumbly section on the right where there was no climbing possible. Then Mike and Dave Kellermann independently discovered the crag on one of their regular boat trips up middle harbour and with the help of Tim O'Neill they realised the potential it held for great boulder problems. There are about 10 problems now ranging from V5 to V13. All the problems are steep and the best are actually horizontal - Chaos and Disorder V11? and Anorexic V5 are arguably the best problems for their style and grade in Sydney!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Nasty

Start on two underclings at the far left side. Make a big move and head up and slightly left to finish. Don't dab the tree! Not great.

FA: D.Kellerman, 2000

V6 Boulder 3m
2 Reading Between The Lines

Start as for Nasty but continue up passed its finishing holds and traverse high and right to end up on the finish holds of genesis

V8 Boulder
3 Urban Koala

FA: Tom Farrell

V11 Boulder 4m
4 *** Genesis

Start on the big flake jug and make a very tough move up using the tiny crimp. A heel thrown onto the rail of 'Sushi Train' appears to help.

FA: D.Kellerman, 2000

V13 Boulder
5 Genius

Start 'Abacus' finish 'Genesis'.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2008

V13 Boulder
6 Catalyst

"9 moves all up. Hard to grade." Mushi Brain finishing up Genesis

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2007

V13 to V14 Boulder
7 *** Sushi Train

Start on the big undercling with your feet on the back wall and blast straight up, finishing matched on the huge jug left of the spike. Crafty toe-hooks are the key.

FA: S.Langris/T.O'Neill, 2000

V8 Boulder
8 Sushi Train (Standing start) V6 Boulder
9 *** Mushi Brain

Start as for Nasty and make big moves out rightwards, finishing up 'Sushi Train'. Pumpy.

FA: T O'Neill, 2000

V11 Boulder
10 ** Flame

A.k.a. Phlegm starting at Sushi Train.

After the crux of Sushi Train bust out right to finish up Abacus.

V9 Boulder
11 Phlegm

Link 'Mushi Brain' into the last two moves of 'Abacus'

FA: J.Scarborough, 2000

V12 Boulder
12 *** Abacus

Start on the undercling just right of Sushi Train's start and power up using the obvious poor pinch.

FA: T.O'Neill, 2000

V12 Boulder
13 Abacus(stand)

Standing Start

FA: T.O'Neill, 2000

V11 Boulder
14 Logical Progression

Extension to 'Abacus'. Need some spotters and mats for this one, its high and dynamic moves above your spotters heads.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2008

V13 Boulder
15 Sugoi

Links 'Mushi Brain' into start of 'Abacus'.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2007

V13 Boulder
16 Progressive Aggression

'Sugoi' into 'Logical Progression'.

Or start 'Mushi Brain' into 'Abacus' finishing high.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2008

V14 to V15 Boulder
17 ** Life Changes

Start as for Abacus, then traverse backwards through Mushi Brain to finish up Nasty.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2010

V11 Boulder
18 Life Changes (Sushi start)

Life Changes but starting as for Sushi Train. LC originally started as for Abacus.

V10 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
19 *** Chaos and Disorder

Start of the underclings and make some bizarre contortions (including doing a full 180 degree spin) through the roof. Probably one of the coolest and most unique problems in Sydney.

FA: D.Kellerman, 2000

V10 Boulder
20 *** Black Magic

Start on the big undercling in front of 'Mull up'. Launch out through the roof and link into the last few moves of 'Anorexic'. Double toe-hooks are the trick for the funky 'drop down' move.

FA: M.Kellerman, 2000

V8 Boulder
21 *** Blacker Magic

Link 'Black Magic' into the finish of 'Exodus'.

V9 Boulder
22 White magic

Anorexic finishing on the start hold of Black Magic

V8 Boulder
23 *** Anorexic

The warm up. And one of the best problems of this grade & style. Start at the back wall and pull straight out the roof, passing the big hole, make a long throw and finish MATCHED on the huge jug. Hold that swing!

FA: T.O'Neill, 2000

V5 Boulder 4m
24 ** Anorexic (Extension)

After reaching the finishing jug, keep going a few moves further and finish on an even higher jug, up and left of the spike on 'Exodus'. Scary!

V7 Boulder
25 ** The Monster Anorexic Link

Link the Traverse into 'Anorexic' and finish as for the 'Anorexic' extension. V7' ish but probably deserves a sport grade.

V7 Boulder
26 Exodus

Start slighty right of 'Anorexic'. Move through the roof with your hands staying clear of the holds on 'Anorexic' although your feet may stray over. Keep going past the old bolt and slap up the sloping prow to finish on the the big spike. Unrepeated since a hold broke?

FA: T.O'Neill, 2000

V10 Boulder
27 ** Anorexodus

Link 'Anorexic' into the finish of 'Exodus'.

V8 Boulder
28 The Traverse

Start a few metres right (just before the rock gets bad) and traverse left into the start of 'Anorexic'.

FA: T.O'neill, 2000

V6 Boulder
29 Genicus

Low start on crimp rail straight up to finish matched on slopey rail. Cleaned up nicely.

FA: @landers, 2015

V5 Boulder
30 Genicus Copernicus

Start at Genicus and go up through crimp rail to slopey rail. Traverse rightwards till the holds end then make a big move out to jug in the roof.

FA: @phil_nev, 2015

V5 Boulder
31 Leviticus

Sit start on an incut RH crimp and LH slopey crimp. Go up to the break and traverse right to the big bucket jug. Head straight out the roof to the last jug via some big spans.

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

V10 Boulder
32 The Prow

FA: Chris Webb Parsons

V12 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
33 Get down on it

Sit start on undercling. Finish matched on sloper to right.

V3 Boulder 3m
34 *** Give it to me baby

A sit start problem near the bottom of the dicey access gully

FA: Kyle Dunsire, 2000

V3 Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
V3 Get down on it Boulder 3m
*** Give it to me baby Boulder
V5 *** Anorexic Boulder 4m
Genicus Boulder
Genicus Copernicus Boulder
V6 Nasty Boulder 3m
Sushi Train (Standing start) Boulder
The Traverse Boulder
V7 ** Anorexic (Extension) Boulder
** The Monster Anorexic Link Boulder
V8 ** Anorexodus Boulder
*** Black Magic Boulder
Reading Between The Lines Boulder
*** Sushi Train Boulder
White magic Boulder
V9 *** Blacker Magic Boulder
** Flame Boulder
V10 *** Chaos and Disorder Boulder
Exodus Boulder
Leviticus Boulder
Life Changes (Sushi start) Boulder
V11 Abacus(stand) Boulder
** Life Changes Boulder
*** Mushi Brain Boulder
Urban Koala Boulder 4m
V12 *** Abacus Boulder
Phlegm Boulder
The Prow Boulder
V13 *** Genesis Boulder
Genius Boulder
Logical Progression Boulder
Sugoi Boulder
V13 to V14 Catalyst Boulder
V14 to V15 Progressive Aggression Boulder