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Table of contents

1. Crumbly 28 routes in Crag

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.215637, -33.779884

Description:© (StuartE)

This area is all about 'Crumbly' ... but there are a few other minor scraps of rock here too.

Approach:© (StuartE)

Park opposite 106 Kilarney Drive. Head down the path in the rocks and take a right when you reach the intersection. About 100m along and you'll see a track back up the hill into the cave.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Nasty

Start as for 'Mushi Brain' but break out left and don't dab the tree! Not great.

FA: D.Kellerman, 2000

2 Urban Koala

FA: Tom Farrell

V11Boulder 4m
3 reading between the lines

an old school problem rediscovered

4 *** Mushi Brain

Start on two underclings in the corner and make big moves out rightwards, finishing up 'Sushi Train'. Pumpy.

FA: T O'Neill, 2000

5 Sugoi

Links 'Mushi Brain' into start of 'Abacus'.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2007

6 Progressive Aggression

'Sugoi' into 'Logical Progression'.

Or start 'Mushi Brain' into 'Abacus' finishing high.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2008

V14 to V15Boulder
7 Phlegm

Link 'Mushi Brain' into the last two moves of 'Abacus'

FA: J.Scarborough, 2000

8 *** Genesis

Start on the big flake jug and make a very tough move up using the tiny crimp. A heel thrown onto the rail of 'Sushi Train' appears to help.

FA: D.Kellerman, 2000

9 *** Sushi Train

Start on the big undercling with your feet on the back wall and blast straight up, finishing matched on the huge jug left of the spike. Crafty toe-hooks are the key.

FA: S.Langris/T.O'Neill, 2000

10 Sushi Train (Standing start) V6Boulder
11 ** Life changes

Start as for Sushi Train, then traverse backwards through Mushi Brain to finish up Nasty.

12 Genius

Start 'Abacus' finish 'Genesis'.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2008

13 *** Abacus

Start on the undercling just right of Sushi Train's start and power up using the obvious poor pinch.

FA: T.O'Neill, 2000

14 Abacus(stand)

Standing Start

FA: T.O'Neill, 2000

15 Logical Progression

Extension to 'Abacus'. Need some spotters and mats for this one, its high and dynamic moves above your spotters heads.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2008

16 *** Chaos and Disorder

Start of the underclings and make some bizarre contortions (including doing a full 180 degree spin) through the roof. Probably one of the coolest and most unique problems in Sydney.

FA: D.Kellerman, 2000

17 ** Black Magic

Start on the big undercling in front of 'Mull up'. Launch out through the roof and link into the last few moves of 'Anorexic'. Double toe-hooks are the trick for the funky 'drop down' move.

FA: M.Kellerman, 2000

18 *** Blacker Magic

Link 'Black Magic' into the finish of 'Exodus'.

19 White magic V8Boulder
20 *** Anorexic

The warm up. And one of the best problems of this grade & style. Start at the back wall and pull straight out the roof, passing the big hole, make a long throw and finish MATCHED on the huge jug. Hold that swing!

FA: T.O'Neill, 2000

21 ** Anorexic (Extension)

After reaching the finishing jug, keep going a few moves further and finish on an even higher jug, up and left of the spike on 'Exodus'. Scary!

22 Exodus

Start slighty right of 'Anorexic'. Move through the roof with your hands staying clear of the holds on 'Anorexic' although your feet may stray over. Keep going past the old bolt and slap up the sloping prow to finish on the the big spike. Unrepeated since a hold broke?

FA: T.O'Neill, 2000

23 ** Anorexodus

Link 'Anorexic' into the finish of 'Exodus'.

24 ** The Monster Anorexic Link

Link the Traverse into 'Anorexic' and finish as for the 'Anorexic' extension. V7' ish but probably deserves a sport grade.

25 The Traverse

Start a few metres right (just before the rock gets bad) and traverse left into the start of 'Anorexic'.

FA: T.O'neill, 2000

26 Get down on it V3Boulder
27 *** Give it to me baby

A sit start problem near the bottom of the dicey access gully

FA: Kyle Dunsire, 2000

28 Catalyst

"9 moves all up. Hard to grade."

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2007

V13 to V14Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
V3 Get down on it Boulder
*** Give it to me baby Boulder
V5 *** Anorexic Boulder
V6 Nasty Boulder
Sushi Train (Standing start) Boulder
The Traverse Boulder
V7 ** Anorexic (Extension) Boulder
** The Monster Anorexic Link Boulder
V8 ** Anorexodus Boulder
** Black Magic Boulder
*** Sushi Train Boulder
White magic Boulder
reading between the lines Boulder
V9 *** Blacker Magic Boulder
V10 Abacus(stand) Boulder
*** Chaos and Disorder Boulder
Exodus Boulder
V11 ** Life changes Boulder
*** Mushi Brain Boulder
Urban Koala Boulder 4m
V12 *** Abacus Boulder
Phlegm Boulder
V13 *** Genesis Boulder
Genius Boulder
Logical Progression Boulder
Sugoi Boulder
V13 to V14 Catalyst Boulder
V14 to V15 Progressive Aggression Boulder