A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Balmoral 9 routes in Crag

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.251446, -33.826183


Vertical Beach climbing. You'd be better off going for a swim or grabbing a cappuccino Couple of roof problems just off the beach in Lawry Plunkett Reserve.


It's the "island" right in the middle of Balmoral Beach. Or park in Botanic Road for Lovers Tiff.

Ethic: inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Rightside Lip Traverse

Start a few metres left of the concrete bridge

FA: Za Utopia, 1989

V0 Boulder
2 Middle Cave Traverse

Sandy Cave 40m left of the bridge

FA: Za Utopia, 1990

V1 Boulder
3 Flake to Wafer

The Flake in the Left Cave

FFA: Za Utopia, 1990

V3 Boulder

1.1. Lawry Plunkett Reserve 6 routes in Sector


Long/Lat: 151.250522, -33.828567


Couple steep caves and some quarried highballs.


Park in Botanic Road. Caves are visible from the road.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Balmoral Arete

Arete on the right side of the bloc to the left of Lover's Tiff.

FA: Damien Alexander, 2011

V5 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Balmoral 6

Start as for Lover's Tiff but keep traversing left to top at the end of the cave.

V6 Boulder
3 Lovers Tiff Left

As for Lovers Tiff but continue left to mantle near the edge of the cave. Tough.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2007

V8 Boulder
4 Lovers Tiff Traverse

Out left as for "Lovers Tiff Left" but then traverse the lip right and finish up "Lovers Tiff". Harder than "Lovers Tiff Left" but not V9.

V8 Boulder 3m
5 Lovers Tiff

Located in Lawry Plunkett Reserve. Start on jug near the LHS of obvious cave, move to pockets and through roof to finish above the start. Really cool campus crux.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2007

V10 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Groove

Stand start on the jug on the lip and mantle up the face to top out. Been done? Grade unknown.

Boulder 4m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
V0 Rightside Lip Traverse Boulder 1. Balmoral
V1 Middle Cave Traverse Boulder 1. Balmoral
V3 Flake to Wafer Boulder 1. Balmoral
V5 Balmoral Arete Boulder 1.1. Lawry Plunkett Reserve
V6 Balmoral 6 Boulder 1.1. Lawry Plunkett Reserve
V8 Lovers Tiff Left Boulder 1.1. Lawry Plunkett Reserve
Lovers Tiff Traverse Boulder 3m 1.1. Lawry Plunkett Reserve
V10 Lovers Tiff Boulder 1.1. Lawry Plunkett Reserve
? Groove Boulder 4m 1.1. Lawry Plunkett Reserve