A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Balmoral
14 in Crag
- 1.1. Lawry Plunkett Reserve 10 in Crag
- 1.2. Balmoral Island 1 in Boulder
- 2. Index by grade
1. Balmoral 14 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -33.826183, 151.251446
description
Vertical Beach climbing. You'd be better off going for a swim or grabbing a cappuccino Couple of roof problems just off the beach in Lawry Plunkett Reserve.
access issues
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
approach
It's the "island" right in the middle of Balmoral Beach. Or park in Botanic Road for Lovers Tiff.
ethic
Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.
If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 3 |
Rightside Lip Traverse
Start a few metres left of the concrete bridge FA: Za Utopia, 1989 | V0 | ||||
| 4 |
Middle Cave Traverse
Sandy Cave 40m left of the bridge FA: Za Utopia, 1990 | V1 | ||||
| 5 |
Flake to Wafer
The Flake in the Left Cave FFA: Za Utopia, 1990 | V3 | ||||
1.1. Lawry Plunkett Reserve 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.828567, 151.250522
summary
Home of the uber-classic 'Lovers Tiff' (V10) and a couple of other good variations.
description
A few good problems in a sweet location. Flat, grassy landing, no approach, kids friendly and just 200m from the beach.
approach
Park on Botanic Road opposite of houses number 36-40 (8$/hour on weekends or $25/day). Caves are visible from the road.
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Balmoral Arete
Arete on the right side of the bloc to the left of Lover's Tiff. FA: Damien Alexander, 2011 | V5 | ||||||
| 2 |
★ Balmoral 6
Start as for Lover's Tiff but keep traversing left to top at the end of the cave. | V6 | ||||||
| 3 |
★★ Lovers Tiff Left
Same start as for Lovers Tiff but from the big horn, continue straight out instead of right. FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2007 | V8 | 5m | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Lovers Tiff Traverse
Same as for "Lovers Tiff Left" but once you reach the lip traverse right to finish up "Lovers Tiff". A tad harder than "Lovers Tiff Left". | V8 | 3m | |||||
| 5 |
★★★ Lovers Tiff
Start on the chalked up jugs, traverse left to pockets out and through the middle of roof to finish above the start. FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2007 | V10 | ||||||
| 6 |
★★★ Love and Pride
A.K.A. Lover's Tiff Direct. Go straight out the roof from the start jug and link into the end of Lover's Tiff. Morpho as anything. Edit: New beta seems to make this V10ish. FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Jun 2020 | V10 | ||||||
| 7 |
★★★ McLovin
Sit Start on the 2 crimps below the jug rail, climb as for 'Love and Pride' then traverse into & exit 'Lovers Tiff Left' FA: R. Hofmann, Oct 2020 | V10 | 4m | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 8 |
★ Alexander Fig Newton
Climb the left side of the bulb, left of the groove. FA: Daniel da Silva, 1 Sep 2018 | V4 | 4m | |||||
| 9 |
★ Ain't Nuthin But A Twang
Stand start on the jug on the lip and mantle up the face to top out. FA: Fat Fab, 9 Sep 2018 | V3 | 4m | |||||
| 10 |
★★★ It'll go.
Mantle. | 4m | ||||||
Phillip Booth1.2. Balmoral Island 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.823159, 151.252192
description
Northern face of Balmoral Island, left side of the bridge
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Stingaree
Start with hands above the sandy cave and make your way up to the top lip Set: 25 Jul 2021 | V1 | 4m | |||||
2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop | Area |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| V0 | Rightside Lip Traverse | 1. Balmoral | ||||
| V1 | Middle Cave Traverse | 1. Balmoral | ||||
| ★ | Stingaree | 4m | 1.2. Balmoral Island | |||
| V3 | Flake to Wafer | 1. Balmoral | ||||
| ★ | Ain't Nuthin But A Twang | 4m | 1.1. Lawry Plunkett Reserve | |||
| V4 | ★ | Alexander Fig Newton | 4m | 1.1. Lawry Plunkett Reserve | ||
| V5 | Balmoral Arete | 1.1. Lawry Plunkett Reserve | ||||
| V6 | ★ | Balmoral 6 | 1.1. Lawry Plunkett Reserve | |||
| V8 | ★★ | Lovers Tiff Left | 5m | 1.1. Lawry Plunkett Reserve | ||
| ★★ | Lovers Tiff Traverse | 3m | 1.1. Lawry Plunkett Reserve | |||
| V10 | ★★★ | Love and Pride | 1.1. Lawry Plunkett Reserve | |||
| ★★★ | Lovers Tiff | 1.1. Lawry Plunkett Reserve | ||||
| ★★★ | McLovin | 4m | 1.1. Lawry Plunkett Reserve | |||
| ? | ★★★ | It'll go. | 4m | 1.1. Lawry Plunkett Reserve |