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Ethic inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on


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Grade Route

Obvious dyno on the walk down wall.

FA: Mattias B-M, 2015

Up the juggy ramp to the top.

Start on the jug in the roof, up and mantle into the scoop.

From the jugs just under the lip, move powerfully up and mantle the shelf at its highest point.

Traverse the lip of the roof leftwards to finish on the broken slopers (same as Danger Mouse). Keep going if you're keen.

Straight out the roof and mantle right of the broken slopers.

From the two perfect slots in the middle of the roof, come out and match on the broken slopers.

From the two perfect slots in the middle of the roof, move horizontally through the roof, then come out to the lip opposite the smiley face, finally finishing on a jug a couple of metres further up.

Start matched in the thin flaky slot 1m back from the lip, head out and rightish to some desperate slopers and finally match in the break.

Start at the back wall just left of the smiley face (in a small hueco), head straight out the to the infamous slopers and a thin break, finishing over left on a jug.

"Grimacing" into Agent Orange.

FA: Sharik Walker

1.5m left of the smiley face are 2 undercling pockets, grab these. Make a big move out to the cool fin, then another to the big hueco and straight out.

From the big hueco in the roof head straight out. Same finish as Primordial Soup and Grimacing.

Start Grimacing and finish up Voodoo Child.

From the big hueco head left to the next big hueco, then straight out and up to finish over the lip. Crag classic.

Great moves linking in to Voodoo Child.

From the right side of the hueco, move right and up to finish over the lip.

Over to the left is a little corner, sit down and finish as high as you like.


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