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Description

This climb is apparently described in the Sydney Bouldering Guide, http://www.australianbouldering.com/guides/sydney/sydney_guide.html

I'm hoping someone with a copy can do a better job on this description.

Approach

Park at the end of Farrer Place. Keep on walking through the cul-de-sac, 15m down the fire trail, to the fire trail T-intersection. Here you will find a rock platform. (I couldn't find any specific climbs here). Take a right, and walk along till you are behind the house at 18A Farrer Pl, then walk 10m down to the cliff line. Here is an overhung boulder, about 2m high, with a 10m traverse (which had chalk marks when I found it).

Ethic inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V4 Dakked Boulder

Start under the small rooflet on the main cliff, move right to some positive and curvy edges, then up. Halfway through the mantle the name should become apparent.

2
V6 Lucifer's Loins Boulder

Some nice steep climbing out leftwards, then a longish move to the lip followed by a mantle.

3

Start on the small edge 1.5m left of 'Lucifer's Loins'. Move powerfully left through a variety of slopers, pinches and small edges and a tough cut loose, finishing up Devil Child.

4

Start as for 'Devil in a Blue Dress' but do not use any of the holds left of its initial features - including big footholds. Finish out right on the jug (before Devil Child).

5
V4 Devil Child Boulder

From two reasonable slopers, move powerfully right and into the roof, then pull hard for the top.

6
V9 Sign of the Cross Boulder

A desperate intro into Devil Child. From the 2 small slopers left of the scoop, reach, reach, reach rightwards, finishing up Devil Child.

7
V3 Prophet of Evil Boulder

From the big holds just left of 'Sign of the Cross', mantle up onto the ledge.

8

From the 2nd lowest of the sharp curving edges, gain the slopey lip and traverse right to the top of Devil Child.

9
V3 Desire for Blood Boulder

Start as for Rosary Crucifixion, but go straight up. Either walk off right or down climb.

10
V6 666 Boulder

Thin and nasty. From Rosary Crucifixion's starting hold, traverse left via a sharp crimp to the jugs (start of 'Stairway to Heaven' - link them together if you're keen).

11
V5 Disembowelment Boulder

A one move wonder, that's even harder no the hold has broken. From the undercling and the side pull jump your feet on and fire away.

12

Sit start on a reasonable hold at the far left of the cliff. Forget your feet and pull up to 2 small holds and then move right to the sloper and up. Finish on the jugs or continue up to 'Stairway to Heaven'.

13

Grab the big jug on the lip and have an enjoyable wander up the arete.