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aka Eagle's Head, this wall is high, and the landings aren't the best. then again they're not as bad as some!

Potential descent route in the ledgy corner

© (Atrax)


Left of Black Wall/Wide Crack, another small bay

© (Atrax)

Ethic inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route
V0 * 1 Boulder 3m

Layback the obvious block feature on the right hand side of the area.

V5 2 Boulder 3m

Traverse the block rightwards staying below the lip.

V1 * 3 Boulder 3m

Start up on the ledge, climb the small wall on good holds

V0 3a Boulder 3m

Hand jam up the corner crack

V1 * 4 Boulder 4m

Left of the corner crack is a good jug. Past this using the flake.

V4 ** 5 Boulder 5m

Thinly up the centre of the wall on mostly positive holds.

V3 * 6 Boulder 5m

Start in the large pocket near the middle of the wall. climb up and left via a flake to finish right of the tree

V3 * 7 Boulder 5m

Reachy start, vague flakeline.

V2 R ** Orange Arete Boulder 5m

Stay on the right of the arete all the way to the top

V0- * 9 Boulder 5m

The buttress on the left of the 'One Hold Wall' area

V6 R * Orange Arete Variant Boulder 5m

Hard sit start variant on 'Orange Arete'


Scramble down from the ledge and traverse the wall at low height. Move around the Orange Arete to a short wall.


Check out what is happening in One Hold Wall.