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Table of contents

1. Blues Point 40 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.203218, -33.849978

Description:

A 35m long quarried cliff that has a mass of good, unappreciated boulder problems on it. A few great mantles and some V1's makes this place good for beginners, with a few harder problems scattered throughout.

We all started out as beginners so some VERY easy problems have been developed for those just discovering the love of rock. Become comfortable with the rock, then face the battle of the psychological challange.

With the Harbour Bridge to your right and the harbours water's lapping behind you, this crag will offer you more than just a good climb, it'll offer you some amazing views as well!

Most problems finish halfway up the wall. Of course if one wants to, all problems can be topped out, with more highballs being developed all the time.

News Flash: Blues Point now new and improved with added top rope problems! Gear not included.

Council have also placed a permanent wheelie bin at the base of the crag next to Letterbox Crack. Ensure care is taken when traversing I Can See The Clock But I Don't Know What The Time Is .

Approach:

Drive, ride or walk down to the end of Blues Point Road where you'll hit a car park with an awesome view of the Harbour Bridge and city.

Walk through Blues Point Reserve, past the play ground and toilets and then round the point past all the fishermen. In under 2 minutes you've come across the first wall with two more only meters away.

History:

Well hello there I'm glad you stopped by. Why don't you take a seat and I'll tell you a story of how it all began.

Now bing so close to the city and with the iconic over hang of Balls Head on the opposing shore, Blues Point has been crawled over for years but until recently very few routes had been developed with almost no beta being placed in guide books or online.

Blues Point was first develoepd by Brendon Allan Flanagan in early 2011 and was his first ever 'crag project'. Then in 2012 from sunny Queensland came Ranger Dave who found Blues Point on another climbing web site which will not be mentioned because as we know thecrag.com is the best!

Ranger Daves keen eye for detail could see that Blues Point had so much more to offer the climbing community than what Brendon Allan Flanagan had revealed. Tirelessly Ranger Dave toiled, and toil did Ranger Dave until all the wonders hidden in every crimper, pocket and jug were discovered.

It was at this point Brendon Allan Flanagan and Ranger Dave joined forces to use their powers to persue world domination...they then decided developing more problems and climbs would be a far better idea instead. So like two giddy school girls the night before the school dance (Daves quote, not Brendons), together they focused their excitment on the undeveloped rock in Sydney.

And the Sydney climbing community lived happily ever after.

Ranger Dave and Brendon Flanagan developed this crag so that all chalk bearers could share the love of Blues Point.

Blues Point was the epicentre for the Gret Bouldering Boom.

Chalk up, climb on and live the dream!

1.1. Life Aquatic Wall 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.203343, -33.850174

Description:

Life is all about the water! Or is it all about the land? Many have struggled with this dilemma and here you can too. Do you watch the hordes of city folk and their flotilla or does the rock and its intricacies consume you?

This wall is characterised by a massive cave to the left hand side and boasts some rewarding problems and challenging highballs.

Prepare to answer the questions of many elderly/tourists/sailor/dog walkers/fisher people of all types on all manner of topics (but mainly on what you are doing).

Approach:

The first chunk of rock you come across as you round the corner of Blues Point. Climbs move from right to left and start at the boarder of the garden where the wall meets the grass and where the skies the limit!

Descent Notes:

To set up the top rope problems either take the stairs past the toilet block to make your way up to the top of the crag or climb the sandstone block wall to the right of ICSTCBIDKWTTI.

History:

Blues Point love and attention revivd by Brendon Flanagan and Ranger Dave Archer. Brendon and Dave's first united crag development.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Crossing The Void

Start as for Slap Those Who Stare. After the mantle move, traverse to your right and around the back to where you'll find a downward gutter cutting in the rock. DO NOT touch any part of the gutter while making your way across it, that'd just take away the fun and that's not what Blues Point is about. Finish by making your way down at the next corner.

Set by Brendon Flanagan

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

V2Boulder 5m
2 Slap Those Who Stare

First wall you see as you round Blues Point. Slopey arête starting on the right side of the wall. Lose fame by standing on the rock at the start. Move left and up to top out. Disinclined to highball? Get down to the right before the crumbly looking roof for a V0

FA: Ranger Dave, 2012

V1Boulder 5m
3 Red Cheeked

Sit start in the scoop to make the most of the solid holds. Mantel up to finish same as Slap Those Who Stare. Dodge the highball and get down to the right for a V0.

FA: Ranger Dave, 2012

V1Boulder 5m
4 ** ELAP

Super Classic Problem. Helps to do yoga before (especially the Extended Lateral Angle Posture) Sit start at Red Cheeked and move left to little side pulling crimper. Finish with both hands on large ledge in Salute to the Sun Posture. Repeat.

FA: Ranger Dave, 2012

V4Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 Dump Divers Dyno

As the local disenfranchised types like using this dyno hole as a bin, it might need some cleaning. Boost straight up to jugging ledge. Be cautioned, the bin has teeth of the spidery kind.

FA: Ranger Dave, 2012

V2Boulder 3m
6 * Ranger Dave Saves The Day

Perform a mantle between DDD and DS. Head left through the forest and hope that Ranger Dave is there to save the day if you can't commit to the crux.

Primarily TR climb - but is also a committing boulder. Bouldering FA by Brendon Allan Flanagan with protection on last move.

Set by Brendon Flanagan

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

12Top rope 11m
7 ** Dislocation Station

A real hip popper! Start behind old bench and move up the pockets to the right. Follow longish sloping ledge, smearing and/or heal hooking like the best of them. Use gaping hole to finish with both hands on the jugging ledge of Dump Divers Dyno and ELAP.

Super Reachy with solid power required on the last hold! A must try!

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V6Boulder 5m
8 * Dislocate Then Elevate

Start same as Dislocation Station - Climb up pocket filled area behind the park bench and move right along obvious ledge, slapping and smearing.

At large, deep letter box, ascend straight up following drill line near top of the cliff.

Big high ball, with little choss once you blow the dust off the holds.

One of those climbs worth doing once to really get the heart pumping!

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V4Boulder 5m
9 I Can See The Clock But I Don't Know What The Time Is

Facing the rock beneath the high cave start at the far right, just left of the giant root system coming down to the ground. From here traverse around, pass the big scoop and over the buldge. You can either finish at the large drill hole or walk around to the Perfect Flake and finish on this.

Set by Brendon Flanagan

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2011

V2Boulder 12m
10 Find Your Fingers

A interesting traverse. Start as for P By The Sea. Traverse right using the undercling at waist hight. continue along until your fingers slip of the sloper undercling at the end.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2013

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2013

V1Boulder 3m
11 'Thar She Blows!

Starting as for PBTS, head straight on up like a whales spout. Finish by topping out.

Set by Brendon Flanagan

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2012

V1Boulder 13m
12 P By The Sea

Starting at the letter P (graffiti) head up and to the right via the small flake and drill hole tapping out on top.

Set by Brendon Flanagan

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2011

V0Boulder 3m
13 Hold On Salior

Start under the bulge between P By The Sea and Letterbox Crack. Only using the holds on that face mantle up and on to the skinny ledge at the top of the bulge.

FA: Ranger Dave, 2012

V2Boulder 4m
14 Short Arms and a Big Heart

Fun beginner Top Rope.

Starting at Letterbox crack, climb straight up, link on to the edge of the cave and finish just above the corner of the cave (brownish water stained rock)

Could be done as Boulder Problem if focused like a fox!

FA: Antoine Smiley, 2012

12Top rope 13m
15 Letterbox Crack

Follow the crack up using the vertical pockets. Finish by tapping out at the top of the line.

Set by Brendon Flanagan

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2011

V0Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 Get Down Low And Go Go Go!

Start 1 metre left of Letterbox Crack at the inward corner cutting. Matching your hands on the slightly overhanging ledge traverse your way along until you've just past the start for Practice Your Mantle Part 2.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2013

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2013

V1Boulder 6m
17 * Practice Your Mantle

Between LC and the second drill hole, mantle the small overhang. Very balancy.

Set by Brendon Flanagan

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2011

V2Boulder 2m
18 ** Grasping For The Wind

Sit start using first vertical crack line just left of the scoop ( Practice Your Mantle ). Make your way up using the smooth arete to your left. Top out without moving to far left (where the easy holds are).

FA: Ranger Dave, 2012

V2Boulder 4m
19 *** Rock The Boat

Sit start at second crack just left of the scoop. Dog leg up and left via big horizontal crack. Use angled cracks staying as close to Grasping For The Wind as possible, while not using its arete. Love the side pull and top out with final solid ledge hold. Keep your eyes open for possible dyno and sneaky toe jam!

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V2Boulder 4m
20 * One Move Wonder Dyno

A fun and very simple way to practice your confidence with the wolrd of dynos. Keeping your feet low and smearing, match your hands on the solid ledge above, look, leap and lundge for the next ledge up.

Set by Brendon Flanagan, 2013

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2013

V0Boulder 2m
21 Practice Your Mantle Part 2

Starting 1 meter to the left of the third drill hole, place your feet on the massive break and mantle. Excellent mantle practice for the beginner.

Set by Brendon Flanagan

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2011

V0Boulder 2m
22 Practice Your Mantle Part 3

Start 1 meter left of Practice Your Mantle Part 2. The perfect mantle for the beginner who's never done one before.

Set by Brendon Flanagan

FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2011

V0-Boulder 2m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
23 * Crimp And Save

> A contrived climb with a powerful technical start

Start just right of Perfect Flake, with this easy crack out of bounds!

Using smears and two side pulls head up to the bulge on the left above the out of bounds ledge line that's about head height. Keep moving up using controlled power (no Dynos) and mantle out.

As to avoid temptation, there are only 5 useable holds for this V3.

> Less is Best!

FA: Ranger Dave, 2012

V3Boulder 3m
24 * Perfect Flake The name of the climb says it all. Up the flake via some lay back and foot jamming action.

FA: Unknown

V0Boulder 3m
25 Tales of Choss and Chunder

Start just left of Perfect Flake, in front of the large root infested, chossy crack.

Don't be alarmed - work the crack, without using the crimps on the walls ether side and move up to finish under resilient fig tree.

Complete the full circle by traversing right and down climbing via 'PF'

Better than the choss would have you think!

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V2Boulder 4m

1.2. Kung Fu Captin Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.203192, -33.849903

Description:

Just 20 or so meters from the left side of the Life Aquatic wall, this smallish cliff boast 6 sweet technical problems incorporating all manner of high kicks, super human pinches and some bad ass out of sync voice overs!

Panda's are not welcome...

Approach:

Hit the Life Aquatic Wall, walk left from the last part of the face (with the large cave above) until the cliff line takes better form (not so staggered and crumbly). Begin your ancient nose breaking art!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Easy Up

start just left of the obvious black streak as the wall begins to go vertical

Slab style, with some deceptive, flakey holds. Move up and to the left to finish along the shared ledge hold of PFTS and MM. Good for a warm up or cool down.

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V1Boulder 3m
2 * Piked From The Start

Inspired by a Pike - 'flying through the air with both legs and arms pointed in one direction" Lay back the first move just left of Easy Up and move straight up to end slightly left along sandy ledge. Fun moves

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V1Boulder 3m
3 ** Monkey Magic

Regardless of whether you have been "born from an egg on a mountain top" You'll no doubt enjoy this problem. Start on the face covered in features, which juts out the most. Move straight up the defined holds to the same sandy ledge that Easy Up and Piked From The Start finish on (right above you). For best Kung Fu practice climb back down in reverse.

No using magic clouds...

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V2Boulder 3m
4 * Project 1

Starting just left of Monkey Magic, on the wall right of the obvious vertical crack line (Fingers Full of Steel), Use the angled crimpers, while avoiding the holds of Monkey Magic and climb up the face, scarce with holds. Finish with both hands on the sandy ledge common to the other climbs

Completed Sept 9 2012 using the bottom hold of Monkey Magic.

Boulder Project 3m
5 Fingers Full of Steel

Start in the Vertical Crack and use it to get up and under the chossy roof. Use the crack all the way for best results.

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V1Boulder 3m
6 Project 2

Sit start on wall just left of the vertical crack line. Without using the crack move up and under chossy roof. Balance required!

Boulder Project
7 *** Bruce Lee

Super fun, challenging climb. Sit start left of vertical drill line, using two gaping holes. Move right and up to finish with your head touching the manky roof. Pivoting, smears, laybacks and slaps makes this a truly intricate, technical climb.

If you don't mind Beta - check out this 3 star wonder here - http://www.facebook.com/the.ranger.dave?ref=tn_tnmn#!/photo.php?v=10152299590625393

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V4Boulder 3m

1.3. Peeking Patch 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 151.203071, -33.849786

Description:

Also known as the perverts wall, this pocketed cliff keeps you partially hidden in the undergrowth. Be prepared for surprise and shock as passersby respond to your shirtless figure grunting on the cliff face. Maybe you'll be so lucky as for them to be young, good looking girls, who didn't call the cops, but instead called you over to drink wine at their picnic (good part of a true story - bad part is that their boy friends soon joined them)

Not suitable for real perverts or people wanting to have a coal BBQ...

Approach:

Hit the Life Aquatic Wall, walk left from the last part of the face (with the large cave above) untill the cliff line moves into the garden. Enter and begin your dubious practice! Climbs are from right to left and start just left of the Giant Jurassic Park Vines/Roots.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project 3

just left of Jurassic tree root.

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2014

Boulder Project 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 *** Coal Train Blues

After entering the bushes and passing a Jurassic Park like tree root vertically exposed along the wall, this is the first climb you will see.

With a pile of coal at the bottom (the old rusty bbq is in the tree root), this problem follows the iron ledge meandering up the cliff. A fun pumpy climb with good holds, for those who look for them. Once you have ridden the train tracks up to the top try not to grab grass for the top out.

This climb offers the perfect balance of height and holds!

Once on top, remove your harmonic and lament your 13hour days working at the mill...

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V3Boulder 5m
3 Project 1

Starting just left of Coal Train Blues, use the side pull and undercling to boost up to the angled crimpers. Shares no common holds with CTB.

Boulder Project 5m
4 Project 2

Start with hands on the two obvious crimpers a bit above head height. Move straight up and slightly left. No shared holds with Project 1

Boulder Project 5m
5 *** Pockets of Power

Affectionately called Pockets of Power, this climb will leave you pumped, gazing at the pulsating two fingers on each of your hands!

the first few moves involve some creative thinking - start in front of scoop, using weird undercling and solid ledge, enjoy your way up using the two/three finger pockets piercing the wall. With 3 awesome pockets,a few razor sharp crimpers and a slight overhang this climb with test you. Top out has some good slaps and crimps, but may need some brush work

Down climb via the Jurrasic Tree Root to the right of 'Coal Train Blues'.

Set by Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

V6Boulder 4m
6 ** Saved By Ents

Start in front of square cut out a bit above head height. Using said cut out and finger cracks, boost up to slapper. Follow the angled slope, until you can slap the exposed rounded ledge under the over hanging tree and grass. Keep an eye out for a sneaky indent on the last hold

If good ol' mother nature has reclaimed that ledge (i.e covered it with dirt), then reach out to your friends the Ents, clean up the holds and nail it on your second attempt. If going for the Onsight, clean before climb

For full grade, finish with both hands on smoothed over ledge, before using the Ents to top out. Down climb is best to the left

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V3Boulder 4m
7 Tilted Traverse

Start to the right of Project 3 at two crimps on the same flake (a bit lower than head height). Move left, into the scoop, using the holds which are all at head height.

Finish standing up to the left of the vertically rectangular cut out (2nd one).

Nice traverse with slight overhang.

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2012

V3Boulder 6m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
12 * Ranger Dave Saves The Day Top rope 11m 1.1. Life Aquatic Wall
Short Arms and a Big Heart Top rope 13m 1.1. Life Aquatic Wall
V0- Practice Your Mantle Part 3 Boulder 2m 1.1. Life Aquatic Wall
V0 Letterbox Crack Boulder 3m 1.1. Life Aquatic Wall
* One Move Wonder Dyno Boulder 2m 1.1. Life Aquatic Wall
P By The Sea Boulder 3m 1.1. Life Aquatic Wall
* Perfect Flake Boulder 3m 1.1. Life Aquatic Wall
Practice Your Mantle Part 2 Boulder 2m 1.1. Life Aquatic Wall
V1 'Thar She Blows! Boulder 13m 1.1. Life Aquatic Wall
Find Your Fingers Boulder 3m 1.1. Life Aquatic Wall
Get Down Low And Go Go Go! Boulder 6m 1.1. Life Aquatic Wall
Red Cheeked Boulder 5m 1.1. Life Aquatic Wall
Slap Those Who Stare Boulder 5m 1.1. Life Aquatic Wall
Easy Up Boulder 3m 1.2. Kung Fu Captin Wall
Fingers Full of Steel Boulder 3m 1.2. Kung Fu Captin Wall
* Piked From The Start Boulder 3m 1.2. Kung Fu Captin Wall
V2 Crossing The Void Boulder 5m 1.1. Life Aquatic Wall
Dump Divers Dyno Boulder 3m 1.1. Life Aquatic Wall
** Grasping For The Wind Boulder 4m 1.1. Life Aquatic Wall
Hold On Salior Boulder 4m 1.1. Life Aquatic Wall
I Can See The Clock But I Don't Know What The Time Is Boulder 12m 1.1. Life Aquatic Wall
* Practice Your Mantle Boulder 2m 1.1. Life Aquatic Wall
*** Rock The Boat Boulder 4m 1.1. Life Aquatic Wall
Tales of Choss and Chunder Boulder 4m 1.1. Life Aquatic Wall
** Monkey Magic Boulder 3m 1.2. Kung Fu Captin Wall
V3 * Crimp And Save Boulder 3m 1.1. Life Aquatic Wall
*** Coal Train Blues Boulder 5m 1.3. Peeking Patch
** Saved By Ents Boulder 4m 1.3. Peeking Patch
Tilted Traverse Boulder 6m 1.3. Peeking Patch
V4 * Dislocate Then Elevate Boulder 5m 1.1. Life Aquatic Wall
** ELAP Boulder 3m 1.1. Life Aquatic Wall
*** Bruce Lee Boulder 3m 1.2. Kung Fu Captin Wall
V6 ** Dislocation Station Boulder 5m 1.1. Life Aquatic Wall
*** Pockets of Power Boulder 4m 1.3. Peeking Patch
? * Project 1 Boulder Project 3m 1.2. Kung Fu Captin Wall
Project 2 Boulder Project 1.2. Kung Fu Captin Wall
Project 1 Boulder Project 5m 1.3. Peeking Patch
Project 2 Boulder Project 5m 1.3. Peeking Patch
Project 3 Boulder Project 4m 1.3. Peeking Patch