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Description

An area of mixed bouldering grades with a few highballs thrown in for good measure.

Approach

From the carpark, walk past the BBQs and down towards the disused swimming pool. The Blob is on the left as you walk down the steepish ramp.

The first roof you come to after the pool and behind the Scout Hall is Sharik's Roof.

Ethic inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V5 The Blob Boulder

The undercut corner on chipped holds.

FA: Unknown

2
V8 V8 Boulder

Variant to The Blob. Start low in the big pocket, left of the corner. Using the corner when necessary go to the crimp, match and use what ever to get to the obvious bigger holds above. Top out right.

3
V10 The Express Boulder

Start left hand in corner and right on a sloper. Climb the arete to the slope at the top of it. Traverse right utilising edges, slopes and a big undercling, to a ramp. Mantle to some good holds near the break.

FA: Matt Wrigley

4
V10 Optimus Prime Boulder

Start on right hand side of The Express roof on twin 2 finger pockets & punch out left following the arete/lip all way round to mantle same as The Express.

FA: Damo Alexander, 2015

5
V5 V5 Boulder

From good low holds, use a right facing feature and a big move to get the top.

6
V6 High Roller Boulder

Stand start left of 'Sharik's Roof' on two small crimps, move up and right to gain the arete and top out. Bring some pads, and some spotters.

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, 2014

7
V9 Sharik's Roof Boulder

Start half sitting, half lying down on the obvious holds. Do a weird move to a left hand hold. Climb the roof using the the slopey rib, to a slopey lip. Traverse the lip left up the overhanging arete using a sloper. Finish on the jug in the break.

FA: Sharik Walker

8
V10 T-Rex Boulder

Start as for Shariks Roof and finish up Onramp. Going all the way of course.

FA: Al Pryce

9
V7 V7 Boulder

Start on the big jug on the lip of the cave (righthand side). Traverse left into the end of Sharik's Roof.

10
V7 Onramp Boulder

Start right on low jugs traversing left onto the arete just right of 'Sharik's Roof'. Top out just right of the arete.

FA: Sharik Walker

11
21 Masked Avenger Boulder

Marked MA.

First done as a lead climb by Pete Webber in the 80's. Someone came along later and decided to mark the start and name it.

MA originally stood for Mosquito Arete, named when we mistakenly thought we had the FA in 1984 - Laef Hosking

The bolt is now horribly manky so it would be best to top rope or highball.

FA: Pete Webber, 1981

12
V2 Scary Boulder

In the middle of the wall with a small boulder in front of it.

FA: Unknown

13
V5 Hello Everybody Boulder

A further 50m along the track is an extensive series of good walls with some grafitti "Hello Everybody". Boulder up the wall past a manky BR. Good DBB on top for toproping.

FA: Unknown

14
V3 Wall Traverse Boulder

A technical thin traverse, finishing at the small ledge on the right.

FA: Unknown

15
V9 V9 Boulder

Starting at the most right of the big break. Traverse right along the lip, using sharp edges, slopey pinches etc. Finish at the big ledge inside the cave. Technical and quite hard. Another Sharik classic.

FA: Sharik Walker

16
V2 Cold Start Left Boulder

Pass the cave and round the corner. Up the arete.

FA: Unknown

17
V2 Cold Start Right Boulder

Off the pinch.

FA: Unknown

18
V4 The Arete Problem Boulder

The splendid looking arete, which isn't as good as it looks. Start on the ledge and thrutch on up the arete. Finish right as per the next problem.

19
V4 V4 Boulder

An excellent slab on nice rock. Use the right facing feature and some face holds to climb up to a slopey but good top.